(Part 2) Best internal computer networking cards according to redditors
We found 2,550 Reddit comments discussing the best internal computer networking cards. We ranked the 286 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
the m1015 is a trusty favorite. No external ports, though.
I use these spliters for more SATA power connectors and These hotswap cages for housing the drives. They are often on sale at newegg for $40-60, this card Flashed to IT mode will add another 8 sata connections via two sas connectors(sff-8087) via a breakout cable
Currently I am running 8x3tb drives in my pc with a gtx 970 and my 550watt PSU handles it just fine.
This isn’t it chief. $17 for a 802.11n card isn’t worth it when you can get a future proof 802.11ax card that also supports 802.11ac for a little more than twice the price. The 802.11ax card also comes with Bluetooth 5.0.
https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-PCIe-Next-Gen-AX200-802-11ax/dp/B07SPCL2FZ
Wireless N is generally so slow it’s not worth it.
I'd actually recommend something more like this.
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/FvMLgw
Far more power for around the same price. As for peripherals, don't spend too much. You're wasting money if you go out and spend 150 on those things. For the headset, get the Mpow EG3. I have that headset, and it is tremendous value. As for keyboard and mice, that choice is up to you. Look around and research a bit and get one with the features, keys, and buttons that you like. But I wouldn't spend more than 40 on the keyboard and more than 35 on the mouse.
Edit:
If you can maybe wait a month or two and bump your budget up to around 800, then you get a far more well rounded build.
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/t74ydX
Keyboard: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Redragon-K552-N-UK-Mechanical-Keyboard-UK-Layout-No-Light/dp/B07CMJFMW8/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549485596&sr=1-10&keywords=red+dragon+keyboard
That keyboard has clicky blue switches, so they may be loud for your taste. Look around for what you may like.
Mouse: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-Gaming-Optical-Colour-Customising/dp/B01MYQ4HJD/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549485619&sr=1-7&keywords=gaming+mouse
Logitech just makes quality mice.
Headset: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mpow-Headset-Surround-Cancelling-Compatible/dp/B07HKGH683/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549485673&sr=1-1&keywords=mpow+eg3
Probably the best bang for your buck headset. I've got it and it's pretty decent. Gets loud. Base is a little on the low side, but for gaming/watching videos, it's great. Mic is actually quite nice. About above average.
And if you need WiFi/BT, then just slap one of these on as well.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FBSV1XZ/?tag=pcp0f-21
Honestly, USB wifi sucks. If you're okay with opening up your laptop, it's fairly trivial to upgrade the internal card.
You can get the latest and greatest from Intel pretty cheap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G42J6KQ
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Adapter-Card-PCI1PEX1/dp/B0037ECAM2
For anyone saying it's impossible.
What an absolute waste of time that was.
First off, they were pinging a local router and got a 3542 ms response at one point and dropped 29, oh and an average of 35ms all with 32 bytes of data. I've seen circuits to branches running weeks with absolutely no data loss with real data running across it. In "controlled environment" I'd expect 20,000 sent, 20,000 received min ping of 0 ms, max ping of 2 ms average ping of 2 ms. I want to point out, "ping" (the Microsoft program) allows a max packet size of 65500 bytes per packet. 32 bytes to my local router is <1ms and the full size gets to 2ms. It's a solid send/receive of 536 Kbps. At 2ms I'm wondering why it's so slow.
But that's besides the point to be honest at best they wasted what... 5.5 hours of time on that? It would have taken less time to just swap out the hard drive into a new chassis and send it back leaving the failing model to be dealt with later.
But, here's some fun stats. I ran a ping to my local router with max packet size (I know, it's not the best I'm just mimicking what they used), and I watched a 1080p video on youtube.
Packets: Sent = 303, Received = 303, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 1ms, Maximum = 4ms, Average = 1ms
Video ID:-omXBKlDa2M
Resolution:1920 x 1080@24
Dropped Frames:0/6585
But that wasn't enough. I ran the ping test, and launched a 1080@30, 720@30, 1080@24, and 2160@30. About 30Mpbs on average (a few spikes up to 54Mbps, with some moments of network rest) I dropped no frames and my max ping to my router went to 7 ms (likely when I loaded the 4K stream).
Asus's terrible tech support is why my $300ish router (that I got for $200 on sale) I bought this year is TP-Link (which, I'd give it an 8/10 if I'm feeling generous). And why I won't recommended Asus to anyone. They're stuff might be fine 9/10 times but that's not good enough.
I can't find any specific specs for the internals for that laptop. But I'd guess it's either using a cheap wifi card (since they don't list the brand as a selling point) or it's just bad. But look at this card. It's just an example. If they can't/won't fix it for $30 this might fix it (assuming it's compatible.)
The internet? Dude come on. There's no this is that difficult.
here
I'm a fan of the IBM M1015 which is commonly recommended for FreeNAS builds; it's a rebadged LSI card and can be easily reflashed to run in HBA mode.
They're pretty cheap for RAID cards, and I've had good luck finding free ones in decommissioned servers at work. I also have heard they're relatively easy to find cheaply on ebay.
looks like you can get one of these but I personally have never used one
> "My current router/modem is the Motorola Surfboard SBG6580."
Normally I'd recommend getting rid of this and getting separate devices (a standalone modem and a standalone Wi-Fi Router,.. something in the $150+ range like an ASUS or Apple Airport Extreme. The "combo" devices that ISP's hand out are usually "crap in a box".
However.. a lot is going to depend on the construction/architecture of your apartment. Normally I'd say a good quality Router can broadcast over 2000 ft with no problems at all (I live in an old "meat locker/refridgeration" building... and my Apple Airport Extreme signal reaches outside and almost to the Intersection about 500ft away)
BUT... if your apartment has metal in the walls or other things that might block the signal... then even the best Router isn't gonna penetrate that very consistently.
You also want to understand that different devices are gonna show different signal strength depending on a wide range of factors:
So yeah... there's lots to consider.
It even says in the description "not for Hackintosh System"
Edit: Found it
Intel Wi-Fi cards are generally the go-to for good Linux support since you say you don’t care about binary firmware blobs.
You’ll notice they don’t make their own PCIe cards directly, but I’ve had great luck with one of these which is basically just an adapter with a good Intel laptop form-factor card in it.
I havn't tried this first hand but two people mention it working out of the box on linux. It connects the bluetooth over usb2 header. https://amazon.com/dp/B07PMGJ9XY/
It says only Win10 support for AP but I think you might be able to tinker with it.
20 dollars is too little for what you want I think.
Completely anecdotal but I used This for a friend's build and it works great with 8.1. So because of that, I would suggest one of TP-Link's nicer PCIe ones (like this), because it seems they are on top of their drivers.
I've looked a little into HBAs, since you mentioned them, and I'm definitely intrigued! Probably a dumb question, but I had trouble finding an answer: Would I be able to use an HBA in addition to the onboard SATA ports or does it replace them? If I were to follow your setup, I'd need to do the following:
Does that seem correct or did you follow a different set of steps?
Once again, thanks for taking the time to help me out with this! If I can get an HBA working, it seems like it would be a major improvement, allowing me to get the most out of my setup! :D
My original setup went like this:
I have an IBM m1015 I picked up off of eBay and flashed to IT mode so that the drives are passed straight through and no RAID functionality of the card is used.
One of the two ports from it was connected via an SFF-8087 SAS cable to a double SFF-8087 to SFF-8088 adapter, but you can go single as well.
Then an SFF-8088 SAS Cable ran from the adapter to an external case with an HP SAS Expander in it. There are many, many, other models of expanders but this is what I went with because it has the external SAS SFF-8088 port on it (it's not the only one that has this feature, but it's what I went with, and it makes it so every enclosure doesn't need its own motherboard).
All the ports off the expander then went to the backplanes in the external case and connected the drives to the IBM m1015 through the expander.
Since the 4224 did not have a motherboard at the time I used this thing that's usually used for crypto currency mining to provide power to the expander because that's all it needs from its PCIe interface (many of those other models of expander have a Molex connector in it for power and no PCIe interface at all).
As for daisy chaining SAS enclosures, it can be done, but I haven't gotten that far in my storage adventures yet. I do know that there are enclosures that support it and if I were to expand from where I'm at now it's probably the route I would go. Rolling my own was fun and all but sometimes you just want to plug and play.
I'll concur with A_watcher that eSATA enclosures are crap. Or at least the one I've used was as well.
I think that address the questions that were in the OP as well as posed to others that responded.
I'm ridiculously far from an expert, and my setup has changed a lot since the first way it was set up, but I think it was pretty close and answered those questions.
*Many the guys over at /r/datahoarder are much more knowledgeable in this arena than I am and are another source of information when it comes to storage.
Okay, so the issue probably stems from the USB wireless adapter. Your spikes in CPU usage are almost definitely coming along with spikes in network traffic (uploading/downloading). The reason for this is that USB I/O is controlled by the CPU. (EDIT) By using a separate card it offloads much of the work from the CPU to a dedicated chip on the card itself.
Your best bet (and I'm assuming you have a desktop) is to replace the USB adapter with a PCIe x1 adapter. Something like this, this, or this. These cards all fit into a slot on your motherboard that looks like this (the small green one, could be any color though), so you'll need to ensure that you have a slot that can accommodate it.
By the way, I apologize if any of that was overly simple, I don't mean to offend.
why not one of these;
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Centrino-Advanced-Brackets-62205ANHMWDTX1/dp/B007ZWL4A6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377384570&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=intel+wireless
Intel ftw:
http://smile.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-Bluetooth-Adapter-7260HMWDTX1/dp/B00EKQN2KK/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463428224&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=pci+wireless+intel
I would suggest a powerline adapter instead. Something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tenda-PH3-1000Mbps-Powerline-expansion/dp/B0746H97SX
It will be faster and more reliable than wireless. I have one that I use on my NAS to stream video to various devices throughout the home. Works perfectly.
If you really do want a wireless adapter though, this one would be perfectly fine: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-T6E-Archer-Wireless-Antennas/dp/B013HCNTZU
You probably need something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Converter-Including-Networking-Compatible/dp/B01IVIHPBY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498061322&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=pcie%2B1x%2Bwifi%2Bac&amp;th=1
You would need either a USB internet adaptor, connect it via an ethernet cable, or something such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Desktop-Wireless-Hackintosh-Supporting/dp/B01IVIHPBY
^ not sure if that will work with a regular desktop but yeah, that’s what i recommend.
Personally, I'd rather buy this: https://www.amazon.com/H50343-Antenna-Bluetooth-Wireless-AC-compatible/dp/B06XHHR2HR
It includes Bluetooth and you can upgrade the Wifi chip on it if you need to.
If you want the latest from Intel buy this and this, it'll cost you around $47+tax.
https://www.amazon.com/802-11ax-Adapter-Network-Wireless-Desktop/dp/B07SHPKKBR/
Oh here ya go, wi-fi AND bluetooth. Comes in handy if you're running the Dolphin emulator and wanna pair up a Wii remote: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SHPKKBR
If you have an AX router, this card is $41 with coupon. If not, this one is ~$33 with coupon. If you don't mind attaching the very small antennas clips yourself (which can be difficult), the 9260 M.2 is $13.30 and the PCIE card is $14 for a total of $27.30. I have built 3 of those cards and if I needed to do it again, I would spend $33 to avoid the hassle, or even$38 for this one because it looks cool.
You will have to give up a USB2 port on your motherboard to use the bluetooth with any of the above options.
Hmm. I haven't seen that setup before. That's alot of lanes for a x1 card. Usually it's on a pcie card with emi/heatsink shielding in a x1 slot. Like below.
https://www.amazon.com/802-11ax-Internet-Wireless-Next-Gen-Miracast/dp/B07SPCL2FZ/
If you have win10 x64, fenvi has a Wi-Fi 6/ 802.11ax card for $43 usd: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SPCL2FZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LT3XDb25ZSQ3V
I'm a big fan of the Fenvi cards that are based off the intels, also include BT 5.0. Intel AX200 and Intel AC 9260. They're about 10 bucks more, but include bluetooth, and the one is wifi 6 if that's important to you.
If it's not too hard to reach your PC with an ethernet cable, do that, but otherwise I would suggest an internal wireless card:
http://www.amazon.de/gp/offer-listing/B0019EMF2M/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=new
I have 2 of the 3 antenna version of that one. Good cards and you can't beat the price.
That one is the model lower than the mPCI one I already posted, but I think that the regular PCI version (instead of mPCI) has a bit better connectivity.
TP-LINK TG-3269 10/100/1000Mbps Gigabit PCI Network Adapter/Card, Include Low-profile Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034CSUZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_W9lNxb6Z395XY
It looks like the small pci-e slot that the network card would occupy, would be blocked by your graphics card (as the graphics card is 2 slots high).
And checking the specification for the motherboard on Asus' site, it looks like the bottom slot is PCI and not PCI-e, so you wouldn't be able to plug it into that.
You could look around for a PCI network card and you should be able to utilise that bottom slot instead of the smaller one, something like this would presumably work.
PCI-X - http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TG-3269-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Network/dp/B0034CSUZ8
PCIe - http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TG-3468-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Express/dp/B003CFATNI/
You probably need PCIe. It will probably be better than wireless, especially if you have gigabit LAN to all your devices.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TG-3269-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Network/dp/B0034CSUZ8
No, the Perc doesn't work well because it doesn't present the attached drives as individual raw drives. It's either a bunch of RAID0 (with a single drive) or RAID1/5/10. You need something like a M1015 that allows for JBOD (just a bunch disks) to be attached and presented to the OS.
Then in ESXi, you use PCI Passthrough to tell EXSi to give full access/control of the M1015 to your NAS VM.
M1015 apparently was what I was thinking of:
https://www.amazon.com/IBM-Serveraid-M1015-Controller-46M0831/dp/B0034DMSO6
You can (almost always) find them cheaper on ebay.
Here's the guide I used to flash mine:
https://www.servethehome.com/ibm-serveraid-m1015-part-4/
> Since the motherboard only has a singular plain old PCI slot, you'll need a rasp to make the card fit properly
These two bad boys should get it done.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Adapter-Card-PCI1PEX1/dp/B0037ECAM2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487960874&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=pci+to+pci-e
https://www.amazon.com/Fixable-Adapter-Flexible-Extension-Connector/dp/B00IMYODGS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487960885&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=pci-e+16x+to+1x
I have used a Startech pci -> pcie adapter card (http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Adapter-Card-PCI1PEX1/dp/B0037ECAM2) which works well.
That + a 5850 or 5870 for $100 is gonna be your best bet.
Other than that, you're SoL.
www.netcodepool.org
You can try using PCI to PCIe riser or use one of these PCIe Extenders
You've done everything that I could think of, including using a different pc. If you wanted, you could pick up one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F34ONC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JEO6xbWPBBV02
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-1000Mbps-Ethernet-supported-RC-411v3/dp/B004F34ONC
That GPU is really high end compared to the rest of the components.
That RAM is way too expensive
You should get a wifi card that plugs right into the motherboard
Make sure you have enough money for the operating system
For a $1000 budget computer, I would ditch the SSD and put more into MOBO/CPU
http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-300Mbps-Wireless-Adapter-RNX-N250PCe/dp/B006WWMZSK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394664652&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=wifi+adapter+rosewill
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Memory | Kingston Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $64.99 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $64.99
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-12 18:38 EDT-0400 |
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WWMZSK
no budget, really. This is the PCI card im using on my desktop
http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-300Mbps-Wireless-Adapter-RNX-N250PCe/dp/B006WWMZSK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1359068303&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=wireless+network+card+pci+express
The internet on my pc is real slow. I don't think it's my home's wifi, my phone and laptop run fine (and from the same spot as my pc). That's got to make it the wireless adapter, right? I got this cheap one when I built, not really giving it a second thought. If I get a better/more expensive adapter, will my pc's internet be faster?
If yes, any recommendations?
If your router's AP doesn't support 802.11ac, and aren't planning to upgrade to it anytime soon, you can go with the 802.11n version.
I would call your future ISP and ask if they have models with 802.11ac
The card would fit in the slot, but you would have to track down antennas yourself. I suggest getting the desktop version, removing the important bits(the Mini PCIe card, the cable that goes from the connectors on the mPCIe card to the full-sized ones, and the antenna), and installing the parts in the motherboard. Or, for less than your original motherboard and WiFi card, you could get an H87 motherboard with WiFi.
That card would be good.
Also this, at a slight premium.
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-Bluetooth-Adapter-7260HMWDTX1/dp/B00EKQN2KK#
Is the same exact laptop card I use but in a desktop adapter.
this If you can find it more at the $50 price, I found it for that at Microcenter.
this is also very popular here.
I recently got this card and its been fantastic for me. The included antenna has a nice long cable and has a small adhesive pad included to keep it from moving or so you can stick it to a wall.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKQN2KK/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The only issue is the polarity for the Bluetooth is backwards just plug it in reversed on the board (the end of the cord the plugs into a USB header on your MOBO.)
I hope that makes sense I'm tired and it reads right to me. It was the only dual band card I saw that auto switches to the best band for the strongest connection too.
Something like this or this?
You can search for mini PCIe form factor network card, I think those are what you're looking for. The price range seemes pretty cheap on Amazon.
I cant find the 8265 either... but a ton of Intel wifi cards with all kinds of different names. I have no idea what the difference is.
For example this one is the best selling one on Amazon Germany https://www.amazon.de/WLAN-Mini-PCI-Express-INTEL-7260/dp/B00N7474CS/
and there are A LOT of different ones... this seems to be yours though https://www.amazon.de/Intel-8260-NGWMG-INTEL-Dual-Wireless-8260/dp/B0197W86IE
It's a half mini pcie slot.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-Network-Bluetooth-7260-HMWWB-R/dp/B00N7474CS/
Better (Amazon). Using it now, alongwith the AC66U, get pretty good speeds (~15-20MBps LAN from desktop, which is pretty close to the USB speeds for the desktop (USB2.0)).
I got the TP-Link Archer AC1750 from amazon open box. Works great, way better than the usb options I've tried. PCI attachment IMO is the only way to go.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RL4A314?psc=1
Would like to try the new LGA 1151 onboard wifi options available now to see if they are are comparable or better, but haven't had the chance.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RL4A314?psc=1
For instance, does anyone know if this would work?
EDIT: Alternatively, what exactly would I need for this card to work?
For confirmation, I have my computer over wireless 5GHz and my Link wired to the router with no lag either. Computer is roughly 40 ft away from router down an unobstructed hallway (i.e. no walls, doors, or floors in the way).
EDIT: I use this router and this wifi adapter
What I would use if I were setting up WiFi for a desktop PC.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013HCNTZU
And yes it dose work with Linux.
Hey Militant. The only thing you might think of doing differently is getting a different wireless card depending on your network setup. Not sure how much you plan to use wireless, but the card you have is only rated for "N" bandwidth, which will be plenty for internet speeds, but if you'll be moving large files around a network, you might want to get a card that does "AC" which will get up to 866Mbps rather than N (my usual N speeds are ~140Mbps on a single channel). Networking mumbo jumbo is tricky. You won't actually get 900Mbps out of a N900 at one time. Your max is 450Mbps, but I haven't been able to get my N cards ever up that high. AC is basically having a wireless connection as fast as wired (~1000Mbps). The difference is ten pounds on your uk amazon from the same manufacturer (the AC1300 version). It's also backwards compatible with g,n, etc. Your router though will have to be AC to take advantage of it, but it would be future proofed.
You can do audio over HDMI (including surround) with the GPU or there's headphone and mic jacks on the motherboard. If you have analog surround you'll need a soundcard or a higher end motherboard. If you have nice headphones an external DAC/Amp is better than a soundcard. You will need to add a wifi card like this (more expensive = better range). A powerline adapter will give you better latency than wifi if you don't have a strong wifi signal where the PC is going.
I wasn't necessarily trying to imply that it was a bad component, but looking at Newegg and Amazon reviews it's sitting at 3 Stars. So seems like it gets the jobs done, but isn't necessarily a strong performer.
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Personally I haven't messed with PCI wifi cards for a few years now, my method to find one is to filter on Amazon or Newegg with the price range I want, say $20 - $30 and then find the highest rated ones with the most ratings. Brand recognition plays a role so a Rosewill for $16.99 priced down from 24.99 with 4 stars caught my eye.
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Looking at the Rosewill it's got another model for 40 that does double the speed around 800Mbps + 400 (interesting) instead of just 433. There's a model in between for $32.
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Adapter-Wireless-Network-802-11AC/dp/B01JUCUMBK
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I'm not suggesting you buy any of these, that's just how I would find one for myself if I needed one. I would probably spend some more time looking at the specs, reading some of the reviews, comparing to other websites. Newegg's great about having specifications compared to others. Comparing to other cards, etc.
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I bought it September 26th, and it was on amazon right here
Hi! :)
Maybe to give some context, I by default try to optimize builds in a price-performance direction. Many builders are not aware they do not need the $400 ROG board and the $300 Full ATX case to end up with a good system.
But now to your specific remarks:
> Like I mentioned, I like to play games that can be CPU heavy as well, so I think I can still benefit from the 3700x opposed to the 3600.
The 3700X won't give you much more performance in games. That's important to realize. Even if games started to target more than 6 cores, the 12 threads of the 3600 would cover that until around 8 to 10 cores are expected. Which will be many years from now. But it's not like there is a drawback in getting the 3700X, apart from the price.
Bluetooth/Wifi:
> I think it is cheaper (also easier) to go with a board that has that straight out of the box.
Can't argue with easier (minimally), but not cheaper. Get https://www.amazon.de/Gigabyte-1733-wb1733d-i-Mbps-Express-Adapter/dp/B07FBSV1XZ/ for example and you still save 30-40€.
> If I had more budget I would have wanted a 2080 Super
Then the 2070 Super is preferable to the 5700 XT, since it is indeed a bit faster.
> I am aware a HDD is cheaper, but a SSD is faster and the price is almost negligible.
Not even with your budget is the price difference negligible. If you get a 1TB SSD and a 2TB HDD that will be 200€ cheaper than your current configuration. In the end it's of course you who know best how much storage you need, but more than 1TB "live" SSD storage in a gaming PC is excessive.
> Is there a specific reason you changed the PSU aside from price?
Just to show that a 650W psu is enough. The Whisper M though has the additional advantage of being really quiet.
> You changed the RAM, but obviously I chose that specific RAM because of its RGB elements. Is there any specific reason not to go with the RGB RAM aside from it being more expensive?
No
> I have read that the Meshify C benefits from having fans in the front, and I think the RGB elements could be a fun addition. Any specific reason you removed the fans?
Just not a part of my lists and my build tool (yet), you can certainly add the fans you prefer here. One or two additional fans won't hurt.
I recommend getting a Bluetooth adapter for your PC and sync your controller to that. I use this PCI one and it works spot on every time. It's acts as wi-fi dongle at the same time so there's that too. Personally I use wired internet so haven't tested out the Wi-Fi signal I get from it but it's certainly a reliable Bluetooth adapter.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-WB1733D-I-1733Mbps-Express-Adapter/dp/B07FBSV1XZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542719811&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=gigabyte+bluetooth+pci
From a cursory glance,
Motherboard, 16gb ram, ryzen 3600x £291.65 with code pickme5. https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/CCL-4-4GHz-AMD-Ryzen-5-3600X-Bundle-16GB-RAM-Gigabyte-B450M-DS3H-Motherboard/183876451498?ul_ref=https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&amp;pub=5574894536&amp;toolid=10001&amp;campid=5336549684&amp;customid=1860910139&amp;mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F183876451498&amp;srcrot=710-53481-19255-0&amp;rvr_id=2193409754007&amp;rvr_ts=9a1137bd16e0a4812e41e3cdffe68660&amp;_mwBanner=1&amp;_rdt=1&amp;ul_noapp=true&amp;pageci=342d09dc-fbbe-4cf2-9bff-73a965b7f496
1tb ssd £93.87.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B077SF8KMG/
650w gold rated modular power supply £58.46
https://www.cclonline.com/product/241960/PR-GP0650-FMG2-UK/Power-Supplies/Riotoro-Enigma-G2-650W-80-Plus-Gold-Fully-Modular-ATX-Power-Supply/PSU1500/?siteID=hL3Qp0zRBOc-b_4VCFK0LG_XxE7zhBOx9A
Rtx 2060 super £327.75 with code pickme5
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-NVIDIA-GeForce-RTX-2060-SUPER-8GB-Windforce-Boost-Graphics-Card/223751363989?ul_ref=https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&amp;pub=5574894536&amp;toolid=10001&amp;campid=5336549684&amp;customid=1860925948&amp;mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F223751363989&amp;srcrot=710-53481-19255-0&amp;rvr_id=2193523280002&amp;rvr_ts=9a1f239916e0a48ac2237c6cffc87143&amp;_mwBanner=1&amp;_rdt=1&amp;ul_noapp=true&amp;pageci=1336c139-6de2-4c16-b547-f9017b97172a&amp;epid=15034151126
Nzxt h510 case £55
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07SC658X1/?th=1&amp;psc=1
Gigabyte 5ghz WiFi card with Bluetooth 5.0 £26
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-WB1733D-I-1733Mbps-Express-Adapter/dp/B07FBSV1XZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=54846044073&amp;hvadid=259223435473&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=1007202&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=7593172002939644148&amp;hvtargid=kwd-313838297445&amp;hydadcr=11867_1766795&amp;keywords=wifi+card+dual+band&amp;qid=1574543983&amp;sr=8-5
Total price if I didn't miss anything £853
I bought this, it was only released a few months ago. 2.4ghz, 5ghz and bluetooth 5.0 with aptxhd support.
I mainly got it for the bluetooth support for better audio quality but the wifi works great and connects to both my personal 5ghz network and the main one downstairs (Through 2 walls) just fine.
I highly recommend.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FBSV1XZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just to clarify, I am talking about PCIe cards. I am not too sure about USB networking cards.
&#x200B;
Basically of all the different manufacturers of PCIe network cards, (ASUS, Gigabyte, TP-link, Rosewill, etc...) They are all just using the same OEM chips from Intel (and maybe qualcomm???) Basically what you need to do is find the correct OEM chip you want, then try to find the cheapest integrator. Here is the kicker, you pretty much always have to ask the merchant which chip you would be getting. A lot of time they update the chip on the networking cards without ever actually changing the branding or name of the networking card.
&#x200B;
A sure fire easier way to get what you want would be to integrate the chip yourself. Just get a PCIe m.2 adapter (try to find one with an antenna):
&#x200B;
https://www.newegg.com/p/0XM-00JK-00010?Description=m.2%20wifi%20antenna&cm_re=m.2_wifi_antenna-_-9SIADXZ5VY4791-_-Product
&#x200B;
Then pick out the chip that you want. I believe this one is the latest:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-9560-2230-Gigabit/dp/B07G42J6KQ
hocam elimde HP 15-DA1017NT laptop var.
Intel Core i5 8265u
Nvidia MX110 2gb
8gb ram, 1tb hdd.
bütün özellikleri bana yetiyor fakat içindeki dahili wireless network kartı bana çok yetersiz geliyor. 75mbps internetimi yeterince bana aktaramıyor. ayrıca 802.11 ac yok. dahili network kartını değiştirsem(değiştirebilecek kadar donanım bilgisine sahibim) laptop garanti dışı kalır mı? garanti dışı kalması durumunda her hangi bir problemle karşılaşmam olası olur mu? bir de ssd taksam ssd'yi cd rom yuvasına takmamda sakınca olur mu?
almayı düşündüğüm network kartı ise bu:
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-9560-2230-Gigabit/dp/B07G42J6KQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Intel+Wireless-AC+9560&qid=1564738212&s=electronics&sr=1-1
Are you actually having problems with it or are you just worried it might be bad for some reason? I have the same exact model and have had no issues. https://www.speedtest.net/result/8252153433.png the "Killer" control center is just for when you are using an actual ethernet cable. But the card in the laptop is good, its an Intel Wireless-AC 9560 160MHz (I believe it's this one https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-9560-2230-Gigabit/dp/B07G42J6KQ )
I assume "intel convince" was from autocorrect, and you meant Intel CNVi. Basically this means part of what you would normally need in a wireless adapter is built directly into the chipset. You would still need something like an Intel 9560 to get actual wireless
It's going to be hard finding a decent wifi adapter for around $25 on Amazon. Best I could find is this wireless card and this PCIe adapter. You can get them for under $25 on eBay though.
Invest in a PCI-E WiFi adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/802-11ax-Adapter-Network-Wireless-Desktop/dp/B07SHPKKBR
Get that one.
you can buy new fenvi wifi 6 pcie adapter...
on amazon & aliexpress
https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-PCIe-Next-Gen-AX200-802-11ax/dp/B07SPCL2FZ
I'm not sure about the speeds. I would imagine a PCI card would give increased performance but I've never used one as the USB variety has always done me fine.
Maybe even a standard PCI card? http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN851ND-300Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B0019EMF2M/ref=sr_1_15?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1410698423&amp;sr=1-15&amp;keywords=low+profile
Again I have no experience with them so take my suggestions with a pinch of salt.
I've had my pc for a few years now and it's only does this while i'm at uni. it could be a case of the adapter getting older.
I just fixed the problem though.
The way i fixed it is by releasing and renewing my ip. The odd thing is that i've done this in the past, but it hasn't worked.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WN851ND-300Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B0019EMF2M this is the one I have.
Thanks for the help.
Would this work? http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/tp-link-wireless-network-card-tlwn881nd
Edit: Woops just saw it was PCI-Express.
Edit 2: How about this? http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN851ND-300Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B0019EMF2M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421009550&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=pci+wireless+card
So I just realised I didn't have a wifi card on this build can you tell me if this card is compatible?
Sorry, I mean with a wifi card like this one, not a dongle.
Sorry, I worded that incorrectly, what I meant was that you suggest a usb wifi card. Should I get an internal one? Is it compatible?
Sorry, but when I recieve my desktop, is their anyway in know if a wifi card (such as this one) would be compatible?
that's just pci, not pci-e. Those are actually more common and usually cheaper, but a bit slower. link link
Definitely no x1 PCI-e slots. My graphics card is too large and hangs down over the smaller slot so there is no space for anything to slot in.
I was looking at this, [this] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001811NCO/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i3?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=0Y2JHXY7TS3VSJ96VAWT&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=455344027&amp;pf_rd_i=468294) and this previously. However, as I said in my OP, I was put off by some reviews. It could be idiots, as you said, but I'd rather not spend any money for a less reliable card or one that will not penetrate my walls as my USB adapter has never had an issue.
I do have an ethernet port, however I have never used it so I cannot say whether it would work or not.
Would this be sufficient? http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0019EMF2M?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
The TP-Link TL-WN951N should work fine.
Comes out to 600€ currently. The motherboard is high-end, if you take one that costs less you might be able to fit the SSD. The speed improvement from an SSD is incredible.
EDIT: Forgot the WIFI. Here is some options:
Might be better to go for three antennas since you said you're upstairs.
You will need a pci or usb wifi adaptor, like these :
USB: http://www.amazon.com/USB-N10-wireless-N-Transmit-Interface-software/dp/B003E6493G Or
PCI: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN951N-Wireless-Advanced-Low-profile/dp/B0034CL2ZI.
Yes you just need OS, mouse, keyboard and your screen, the tower is fully functional. Invest in a power surge protector if you have budget for it.
Alright, so this would fit into the orange/yellow slot?
You can use a PCIe adapter like this or this
or you can use a USB wireless adapter like this or this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WN951N-Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B0034CL2ZI/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449914415&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=wireless+n+pci for PCI
Yeah, I want to just run a cable like out my window and across the back of my house into the living room, but it would be a hassle. So I should just use the regular PCI lanes for my Wifi card, and leave the Express lanes for the graphics card? I'm getting the Asrock Z77 Extreme4, and the EVGA Geforce GTX 670 is my Graphics card. So would something like this (http://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN951N-300Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B0034CL2ZI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1343145648&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=wireless+pci+card)
or this (http://www.amazon.com/300Mbps-802-11-Wireless-Wifi-Network/dp/B003OZG5NE/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1343145648&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=wireless+pci+card) be good?
Also, when it says 300Mbps thats the data transfer rate correct? It has a max 300 MBps?
How far are you from your router?
For an extra $10, I'd get this http://amzn.to/1oOIYDP , (three antennae for better signal from a more stable power source) and it's a newer model). I'd say $30 is the point where you best best value. Anywhere up from that is a rip off.
I just checked, the firmware is up to date. I don't have the problem when running an ethernet cable from that same router to the computer, so is it possible that the problem is my own computer's wireless card? I have a TP-Link TL-WN951N 300Mbps Wireless N PCI Adapter.
Either way, I'm open to trying a custom firmware, but as a last resort.
I have the DHCP server disabled now, and I didn't see "NIC" anywhere in the wireless settings, but there is an option for "static IP" in this dropdown menu. Is that what you're talking about?
Thank you for your help.
Yeah, definitely. Or if you've got the space for it, something like:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Low-profile-TG-3269/dp/B0034CSUZ8
The nice thing about the USB of course is that you can move it easily if needed.
Tampering with packets, outside the box, would probably cost ... let's see... $9, with free two-day-shipping for anyone who has a desktop with a free PCI port. Most of the kinds of people who've got the knowledge to do it won't even need to spend the $9 though, as they'll already have the parts laying around.
Wireshark, as well as WireEdit are quite free. Not that I think their costing money would stop the sort of people who're gonna use them to cheat at a video game from obtaining them for free...
None of that bricks consoles.
here's a gigabit nic for 9$
here's the very gigabit router that's transferring this comment to reddit
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Low-profile-TG-3269/dp/B0034CSUZ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481507916&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=gigabit+PCI
Do you think that one will work? It has better reviews. Sorry for all the questions, I literally know nothing about these legacy cards or anything lol
Just get one of these. They tend to work better.
Consider buying a new network adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Low-profile-TG-3269/dp/B0034CSUZ8
oh right, woops!
what types of things should i be looking for when shopping for the best internal WiFi-card?
i'm looking at :
Still no luck. I think I'm going to go with a PCI card.
I've got an IBM ServerRAID M1015 without the bracket so you can add either a full height or low profile bracket. $45 shipped.
Yeah, it's going to be a bit of a project :)
From my reading it seems like freenas is fine virtualized as long as you use a supported HBA (I'm going to use one of these https://www.amazon.com/IBM-Serveraid-M1015-Controller-46M0831/dp/B0034DMSO6) and have pci passthrough.
PFsense is definitely also going to be work to set up, but lots of people seem to have done it so I'm excited for the challenge.
This amount of storage is begging for ZFS on Freenas. A 15-drive RAID-Z3 would yield 48TB of storage with triple-redundancy. For any kind of data storage, ZFS provides much higher levels of data integrity than other file systems, but with this much data, it's practically essential along with proper server hardware and ECC memory.
A Freenas build would substitute:
The SSDs could be used as dedicated L2ARC and ZIL devices to intelligently accelerate reads and writes.
This seems to give a value of ~250W for the power requirements; I gather one PSU should be sufficient.
EDIT - Freenas is designed to be booted from a USB-flash drive; this can be connected directly to a header on the motherboard. The M1015 acts as dumb SATA ports, and not as a RAID controller. When rebuilding a degraded array, unlike a conventional RAID volume, a ZFS RAID-Zn volume only writes data to the new disk in proportion to how full the volume is. And the array described above would easily saturate both gigabit ethernet adapters on the motherboard.
Thanks. Sounds like a good plan. Note that "replacement... card" won't help you if it's the same model number. It's not a fault in a bad HBA card, but a limitation on it, so every single SI-PEX40064 card is going to be a bottleneck on the drives connected to it.
Here is a FreeNAS Forum post about choosing an HBA/RAID card. This is generally considered the best card for FreeNAS when it's in IT mode, which comes from that forum post.
Obviously it's much more expensive than your current one, but you get what you pay for, unfortunately, when it comes to RAID/HBA cards and bandwidth/features.
One important note: That "8GB is the minimum" comment is only relevant for when you are using ZFS on FreeNAS. UFS does not need more than 4GB in most cases, but 8GB is the recommended minimum for ZFS.
Thanks, although I was referring to the card that he's pairing this with. Most likely in this sub the IBM ServeRaid m1015
Those adapters are expensive... Buying 3 adapters will cost more than a motherboard (ASRock BTC motherboard)
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Adapter-Card-PCI1PEX1/dp/B0037ECAM2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395594821&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=pci+to+pcie+adapter
> PCIe 1x wired adapter
like this you mean?
https://www.amazon.com/PCI-Express-Adapter-Card/dp/B0037ECAM2
how easy is that to install?
Yes. But it is not cheap. $40 at your favorite etailer.
At $80, it might be more cost effective to replace the board.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815158190
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Adapter-Card-PCI1PEX1/dp/B0037ECAM2
These are the adapters I am looking at
This is my motherboard
I'm using 2 of these adapters (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037ECAM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SbsGzbTYF49EM) on a gigabyte mobo
Since old-school PCI slots are no longer included in modern motherboards, you're probably looking for something like this PCI to PCIe adapter. Note that I'm not endorsing this particular model, as it was merely the first one I found on Google.
It is possible for LAN port to fail at a hardware level. If it's a desktop you could use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-1000Mbps-Ethernet-RC-411-supported/dp/B004F34ONC/
if it's a laptop you could use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2/
Amazon Rosewill Gigabit Lan
I chose it because it had overall good reviews, it was on sale and it had free one day shipping thanks to amazon prime
Would this get the job done?
Is this the one you are talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-1000Mbps-Ethernet-supported-RC-411v3/dp/B004F34ONC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519829793&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rosewill+lan+card
This , if it doesn't work automatically download drivers from here .
Just get one of these, I've tested them on Linux and BSD and they're only $12:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F34ONC
Instead of replacing the whole motherboard just for wake on LAN, why not buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-1000Mbps-Ethernet-supported-RC-411v3/dp/B004F34ONC/ref=sr_1_3
You would save money, give you wake on LAN, and you won't have to worry about reinstalling or reactivating Windows.
If you are dead set on replacing the motherboard, Windows will need a new license. OEM licenses are basically tied to the motherboard. It's the one component you can't replace without getting a new license. It's been that way since Windows 7 iirc.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F34ONC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Above is the card I'm using and the below motherboard is the one I'm operating off
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157729
[EDIT] So I get the Newegg board has a Realtek - is the Rosewill ok? The Amazon reviews had people saying that it worked well with pfsense. Note I can only use certain size PCI cards with the board
I originally had a Rosewill RNX-N250PCe 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter but was recommended against it and pointed towards the USB adapter, instead. You think I'm better off back with the PCIe?
I'm willing to call up Microsoft and say the laptop motherboard fried and I'm replacing it myself, try a little social engineering. If that fails, I'll just pony up if I have to, not a major issue.
As for the mechanical keyboard, what's the benefit?
This one has great reviews on Amazon and is only $15.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WWMZSK/?tag=pcpapi-20
Go with an internal card whenever you can because they usually have better signal strength and you won't have to worry about bumping and breaking it.
Here's a wifi adapter for like 20 bucks that you can put in the PCI-E X1 slot and have WiFi.
You need a wireless adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WWMZSK
Since you're not going to be using a GPU, you could just add something like this in the x16 slot.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WWMZSK/?tag=pcpapi-20
Not sure what USB Wifi adapter you had, but I'm gonna assume it was just junk. Get a PCI-E x1 card if you want but a good USB wifi adapter will be fine if you're not a mile from your router.
Thinking of going with this. Thoughts?
Seems this would work well then, yea?
http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-300Mbps-Wireless-Adapter-RNX-N250PCe/dp/B006WWMZSK/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422401966&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=pci+wireless+card
Yea, although they're not in my budget (am currently building my first pc) so I'll potentially be getting this card.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WWMZSK/ref%3Dcm_sw_r_cp_apa_IwCuybZ40N9ZD/
It's kinda cheap, maybe you could find a better one for not so much more money if you decide to get a card.
I recommend either the Rosewill RNX-250 or the Rosewill RNX-300X if you can spare the extra $10.
Thanks - Ill definitely go with PCIe now.
As much as I like Asus - I was thinking of going with one of these two -
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079XWMEI/?tag=pcpapi-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WWMZSK/?tag=pcpapi-20
They seem to get better reviews and are cheaper.
Also, This question may get a little technical- but certain standards such as 802.11a/b/g/n offer different speed rates. Since N is capable of 300mbs, isnt that a little overkill - considering my internet provider will give me something around 50mbps? I dunno just hoping your a comp whiz that knows everything - thanks for the advice!
I found this PCIe adapter, it has Prime too.
Alright, here is what I found. If you would please let me know what you think/if it will work/ fit with everything else. :)
Wireless adapter: www.amazon.com/dp/B006WWMZSK/?tag=pcpapi-20
optical drive:http://pcpartpicker.com/part/lg-optical-drive-wh14ns40
Case: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005869J4O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Thanks so very much for helping me with this. :D
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006WWMZSK?pc_redir=T1&amp;tag=pcpapi-20
I have one of these if you dont go with the other guy's offer.
It's actually very hard to make a modern system that can't play SC2 well, to be honest, so pretty much anything will be fine.
The only red flag I see that's SC2 related is the wireless adapter. If you're going to be playing SC2 over WiFi, I'd get an Intel card with an external antenna. They're the gold standard. Either get the 6205 for abgn or spend a bit more for the new one with AC for the sake of future compatibility. If for some reason you don't want an intel card, just make sure you get one with a positionable antenna. By positionable antenna I mean something more than the small attached antennas sticking out the back of the card.
Here are my other suggestions though:
CPU: I'd get a 4590. It's the Haswell refresh part. If you want something slightly faster, I'd recommend a 4690K with an overclocking motherboard.
Motherboard: No point in getting a H87 board at this point. Get the AsRock H97 Pro4 instead. It's actually 10 bucks cheaper. Or a Z97 board if you pair it with an overclocking processor. Many H97 boards can do overclocking anyway, the Asrock H97 is one of them.
RAM: Get 1.5 Volt RAM. There's no point to 1.35V RAM, it can cause issues sometimes, and you can probably save a few bucks anyway.
Hard Drive: That works. If you can manage it though, I'd get an SSD and pair it with a 5400 RPM drive. I'd recommend the Samsung EVO series specifically. The 250GB size is the best value spot for them.
Video Card: The 280x is kind of overkill unless you have a 1440p monitor. This is the best point for shaving money off the build. A 270x will suit you just fine. It may be worth waiting for the next round of cards coming out because they're just around the corner, especially if you have your heart set on the performance of a 280x.
PSU: PSU should be ok though you might be cutting it close wattage-wise at 500 vs 550+ with a 280x. I'm personally not the biggest fan of non-Seasonic OEM Corsair PSUs and I like PSUs with 5 year warranties as it's the only part of the computer that can kill other components or start a fire, but it's fine.
The one change I would definitely make is to not get that Rosewill WiFi adapter. If ethernet is not an option, at the very least get a WiFi adapter with an external antenna. I recommend this Intel model. Unless portability is a concern with this build, which I doubt given the case is a healthy midtower, external antenna is the way to go. It will give you better range and bandwidth, plus Intel has better customer support than Rosewill.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/Intel-Centrino-Advanced-Brackets-62205ANHMWDTX1/dp/B007ZWL4A6/ref=sr_1_1
|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Germany|www.amazon.de||
|Japan|www.amazon.co.jp||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||
To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.
How cheap is cheap? This is probably one of the better ones.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZWL4A6/?tag=pcpapi-20
If you don't mind giving up dual-band and a better antenna, you can save money.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393806630&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=tp-link
I highly recommend this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZWL4A6/?tag=pcpapi-20 I get solid ping in every single game. The range on this adapter is insane. I'm getting my full 30 down and 6 up when I'm a floor above my router.
I actually have the same one and I am looking to replace it and get a PCI one. Based on reviews I read this is very decent. The only thing I am trying to find out is if i have a router that is dual band N would it make sense to get a PCI card that supports dual band N speeds.
EDIT: I should add that the Rosewill keeps on dropping every so often not sure if it is the card or something else but I just built a new desktop and want a PCI card instead.
I have this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZWL4A6/
300mbps 802.11n, comes w/ external antenna. Great performing card, even if it isn't the newest tech, bought it because the rosewill and tp-link cards didn't give me a very good signal, but have since moved to a new location where I can use a wired connection :)
$20 shipped?
Note: I may only have the full height, not the half-height bracket.
I've tried that and the improvement was negligible. :/
I think I'm gonna get a better network card for now and get my own router & modem in a month.
Which of these two do you think is better? This or This one
I like the idea of the intel one since my computer is under a desk in the corner, but im not too sure which one to go with.
I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-Bluetooth-Adapter-7260HMWDTX1/dp/B00EKQN2KK/
Haven't had any problems with it.
Intel has a really nice Wi-Fi card
Or you could always do what I did and run the cable through your wall. I just added an ethernet port to my wall and ran a cable from my modem to my computer room.
+1 for the Dell AC-7260 Wifi Card: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-Bluetooth-Adapter-7260HMWDTX1/dp/B00EKQN2KK
That's what I have. Best to just get the drivers directly from Intel, since they're more up-to-date. Costs less than buying the Intel version. For comparison, the Intel equivalent: Amazon, Newegg.
PCPartPicker entries:
It's too bad the Gigabyte version is currently out of stock or priced upwards, though.
Intel generally makes good chipset wireless cards. Ones that are based on Atheros are good too.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EKQN2KK/?tag=pcpapi-20
Basically, all you need to build a router is a PC with a bunch of NICs.
While you can technically do routing on Windows, most people are going to be using Linux or BSD. BSD is generally the go-to choice for networking, a common distro is m0n0wall. Linux distros include Clear OS and Vyatta. You're probably going to want to go Linux because you're probably going to want to turn this into a media server with Plex or something like that. Typically a PC is overkill for the small number of users you're going to have on the network.
Don't cheap out on the NIC cards, especially the wireless NIC. Get a nice Intel card they have good Linux drivers.
Note that this is a very expensive way to build a router. It won't outperform most high-end consumer routers ($200 range). That's why you'll probably want to turn this into a media server. It will do a much better job as a media server than attaching a NAS to a consumer router (like a Netgear Nighthawk).
Here is the mobile version of your link
It uses a standard Mini PCIe wireless card, so you can just replace the card with a new mini PCIe card. Note that current wireless cards are all M.2, so you have to make sure you get one for the older Mini PCIe standard, otherwise it won't fit. Here's an example of an appropriate card.
With this motherboard: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157733&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=
Can I use this wireless card: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-7260-HMWG-R-Wireless-AC-Bluetooth-Mounting/dp/B00MV3N7UO/ ?
Or can someone recommend one?
I'd agree 100% not to cheap out on the PSU. But in a build that budget restricted I wouldn't spend an extra $40 on one. The one included seems to be fine based on reviews.
The Motherboard I linked does include bluetooth, the one you have currently doesn't. Although it does have the Mini PCI-E Slot and mounting bracket, so you could add something like this to give it that functionality. You'd also need the antennas probably.
Talking about wifi card, i've been looking into it.
Some have ugly antennas in the back, Some don't
I currently have a nano wifi key that works perfectly fine.
Any reason i shouldn't pick the antenna-less one ?
What are your thoughts on the "revised" version?
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-7260-HMWG-R-Wireless-AC-Bluetooth-Mounting/dp/B00MV3N7UO/ref=cm_wl_huc_item
Your WiFi card could be going bad. I have replaced them in several older laptops due to this same thing. You can get a nice Intel 2.4 GHz, 5ghz with Bluetooth for $20 on Amazon.
Intel 7260.HMWG.R Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260 Network adapter PCI Express Half Mini Card 802.11 b/a/g/n/ac https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MV3N7UO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_gDUVSsuXBQloX
Ok so first I recommend downloading Verizon's speed optimization tool Download
Second is more or less bad news. I don't believe that model of Verizon's gateway is 5ghz supported or Dualband. not only that but I believe they limit the ability of what you can accomplish with the gateway.
Do you know what wireless card you have in your laptop?
I would probably recommend this https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-600Mbps-USBNOVEL-Wireless-10-4-10-12-2/dp/B06XRG9QDV/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503454338&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=wireless+card if you don't have a dualband card in your laptop.
Then turn off the wifi on your modem and get this
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-N600-Wi-Fi-Router-WNDR3400/dp/B0041LYY6K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503454414&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=netgear+dual+band
Two most affordable solutions.
Also hopefully someone can enlighten if this will work in place of the dongel
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-7260-HMWG-R-Wireless-AC-Bluetooth-Mounting/dp/B00MV3N7UO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503454504&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=intel+dual+band+wireless-ac+7260
I highly recommend just ditching your built in WiFi card and swapping it out an Intel card like this (make sure it's the right size first). They have excellent driver support and work out of the box. It'll be an upgrade to whatever bargain bin card you have, usually takes less than 5 minutes to install and only costs about $25.
So I had the bright idea to check the manufacturers site of who made my laptop and see what wireless card they are putting in the slightly newer model of my laptop (I have an hp envy 17) and found this.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-Network-Bluetooth-7260-HMWWB-R/dp/B00N7474CS
Now to further inundate this post with questions. I am not really understanding the difference between n and ac, outside of speed difference. Is there any difference outside of ac being faster in general?
Looks to me like a standard half-height mini PCIe card for the WiFi. I'd suggest one like this
According to Intel (which is usually a better source than the manufacturer), the chipset supports up to 16GB DDR3-1600, and you can get a kit from Amazon for about USD$50.
so I guess something like this?
This is just an adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Express-pcie-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B07H5JJZ88/ref=zg_bs_13983711_78?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=6JJNHWCDJ5DDQBG161HV
Add an intel wireless chip like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G42J6KQ/ref=psdc_13983711_t2_B07H5JJZ88
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-Network-Bluetooth-7260-HMWWB-R/dp/B00N7474CS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538696290&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=intel+wireless+adapter
In my experience, Intel makes great drivers (note: they have had issues at times, I know, but they seem to finally fix things.)
Here's a qualcomm wireless card that will fit in that fenvi adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-PCI-Express-Half-Size-Atheros-chipset/dp/B012JQVUX8/ref=pd_sbs_147_7?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B012JQVUX8&amp;pd_rd_r=90f116ac-c82e-11e8-954f-1d474762b736&amp;pd_rd_w=8tmkQ&amp;pd_rd_wg=SxWuR&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=7d5d9c3c-5e01-44ac-97fd-261afd40b865&amp;pf_rd_r=QFDR9X7JDT3K8J8136CZ&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_t=40701&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=QFDR9X7JDT3K8J8136CZ
A shit ton of adapters:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=intel+wireless+adapter
Note: be careful with the interface of the actual wireless card, make sure, if you're going to get one of these, that it fits into the fenvi adapter
2.4G antennas usually work for 5GHz too, but are not ideal, but it should still work.
You'd have to open the laptop, wireless card is usually not soldered onto a motherboard in most cheap laptops, it's actually a card, usually it looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N7474CS
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZA1AB2
Basically, you have to open the laptop and see what you're dealing with if you can't find the pictures of the internals for your laptop model online.
There's a ton of videos on youtube of guys changing the cards in various laptops, so you get an impression of what you're going to be dealing with:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwnxTKyacqE
ifixit.com also has really nice macro photos and guides, since the cards are similar in most laptops, you'll probably find them useful
Make sure you have a clean flat stable desk surface to work on, magnetic screwdriver and a magnetic tray help as well. If you don't have those, good luck! , you can probably use plain white sheets of paper as well just so you don't lose the parts. Try not to exert any force on any of the screws or plastic bits. Don't leave it open for longer than you have to -- so you don't lose parts.
Good luck!
Answering my own question about Intel 7260.HMWWB.R
Well, it seems that it works at least in terms of whitelisting.
https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Hardware-and-Upgrade-Questions/Upgrade-possible-to-Intel-AC-7260-802-11ac-Wi-Fi-HP/td-p/4999317/page/2
It seems it works in terms of linux compatibility:
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-Network-Bluetooth-7260-HMWWB-R/dp/B00N7474CS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8
Searching "linux" on the Customer questions & answers search box, I can see it works.
Hi I bought a USB adapter but couldnt really get it to work, the box said it was linux friendly but that was bullshit.
I think I will try to swap out the network card for this one https://www.amazon.de/Intel-7260-HMWWB-R-Wireless-AC-7260-PCIe-Mini-PCI-Karten/dp/B00N7474CS/ref=pd_cp_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=XRA19XDZPMBDNZ64HJTC
Would this be possible? I know how to solder and it has good reviews with the version of ubuntu that I am using.
http://www.linux-hardware-guide.com/2016-09-06-intel-ac-7260-wifi-mini-pci-express-dual-band
I have this same laptop and what I ended up doing was getting the laptop to 8gb's of RAM and then swapping the hard drive with an SSD. It's now faster than before. Only thing is swapping the hard drive means you have have to clone your existing drive to the SSD and you have to take the computer completely apart. Knowing this I made sure to also get a USB to SATA cable that came with the software to clone my existing drive and I also ended up upgrading the wifi chip to one that is at the current AC standard since I opened the whole thing up.
Ultimately you don't need to upgrade the RAM but installing an SSD will make a huge difference. A new wifi module will also make your internet connection better.
The SSD, depending on the size of the drive, will cost about $50 to $200 (you'll need to determine how much space you need, remember your old drive can be turned into an external drive by getting an enclosure for about $20).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s/158-5309750-1204751?k=ssd
The USB to SATA cable with cloning software will be about $20.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005C983NA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486657125&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+to+sata+clone&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=511uOXnct1L&amp;ref=plSrch
And the new wifi chip should be about $25.00 when on sale (optional)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00N7474CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486657232&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Intel+Dual+Band+Wireless-AC&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51bZoIcAeEL&amp;ref=plSrch
Here's how to take apart the laptop and swap the hard drive.
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Dell+Inspiron+n5110+-+HDD+Replacement+-+Upgrade/28194
Yes. I have done exactly this and it works perfectly.
I bought this card to go with this WiFi module.
(Actually, looking at it, that was the mini PCIE versions that I bought, but the same stands for the M.2 version).
I was using an Intel nano receiver that gave me Wifi and Bluetooth, and plugs in via pci. Work's great, and even has a usb plug on it so you can hide your mouse/keyboard usb or wifi usb. Think they're like 25$
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N7474CS/ref=s9_acsd_zwish_hd_bw_b3I4Sup_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-8&amp;pf_rd_r=N6WFDE94F3Y2BS1ZQKD5&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=23407a81-f752-512e-b390-b81c48e0a940&amp;pf_rd_i=3015437011 This one seems very nice, and similar to what im talking about without the usb.
This is as future proof as WiFi comes atm
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00N7474CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482695908&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=pcie+WiFi+intel&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51bZoIcAeEL&amp;ref=plSrch
If you decide to go with an off brand just look for ac support and 2x2 duplex.
I'm not even on 5ghz wifi man, I googled it and it said the Qualcomm doesn't suport 5ghz!
Do you know if this card is compatible with this laptop?: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00N7474CS?keywords=Intel%206235&amp;qid=1451406303&amp;ref_=nav_ya_signin&amp;s=computers&amp;sr=1-3
Thanks for the help though man, glad you got your net sorted.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RL4A314?ref=emc_b_5_t
Also look into a powerline adapter as nothing will beat an ethernet cable.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RL4A314?ref=emc_b_5_t
thank you for that man
Need A Wireless Adapter For College:
Should I go for the cheaper one or does the expensive one give better performance?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RL4A314/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=OYB3E6P9NCY4&amp;coliid=I39EH733NBYARE&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=OYB3E6P9NCY4&amp;coliid=I3HK5Z1QS2O10R
From the Amazon product page:
>Intel 8260 Wireless
Intel wireless isn't supported on OS X. I would go with TonyMacx86's pick for the TP-Link Archer T8E.
Basically, I can't reach an Ethernet cable from my modem to my pc (don't ask why) but I still want the best performance.
Is this a good Network adapter for it's price?
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Archer-T8E/dp/B00RL4A314/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486678354&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=TP-Link+Archer+T8E
I have a TP-LINK Archer T8E AC1750 Dual... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RL4A314?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
PM me if interested.
I have this bad boy and it gives good speeds and I never lose connection.
I found my self in the same predicament. So I invested in a well known wireless adapter.. This one in particular :http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RL4A314/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1462083465&amp;sr=8-10&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=tplink+wireless+adapter&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
My download speeds only went up about 30 Mbps so I upgraded my router and now I get similar speeds as Ethernet (about 90mbps). I'd recommend testing your router's capabilities first before investing in an adapter. Just my two cents. Good luck! Let me know what you decide.
From my experience, this thing did not work at all. Maybe it was just my specific product, but nonetheless, it was not a fun experience. I tried everything that I could possibly think of to get it to work, but nothing happened.
I would suggest this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RL4A314/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's more expensive, but at least it was a plug and play.
I wanted a new machine, under 2k$ to basically be my onset DIT and field editing machine.
Set up is as such:
I have my Panasonic BT-LH1700WP as my field monitor and my HP Dreamcolor as my grading monitor so they were left from the maths.
If my google tablet is getting 41Mbps when held behind my PC tower, my PC should be getting 41Mbps with a proper wireless adapter, right? I'm getting 15Mbps right now and I'm almost positive it's my adapter, which I bought on the cheap years ago (previous internet service was 12Mbps so I didn't even think about the adapter.)
I should see a solid increase with a better adapter, right? Is this TP-LINK Archer T8E AC1750 overkill?
Nah, Wi-fi cards won’t effect anything.
How much are you looking to spend? If you don’t mind a black body I’d recommend replacing key caps.
I’ll research keyboards in a little bit cuz I also love white, also r/mechanicalkeyboardsuk
You can get this Wi-fi card
The Seagate Barracuda ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Seagate-BarraCuda-Internal-Drive-Cache/dp/B07H2RR55Q) and the WD Blue HDDs are pretty decent, whichever is the cheapest of the two in your region is what I would go for. Just make sure its 7200rpm and sata 6Gb/s (most are).
As for WiFi cards, anything that is ac wifi (wifi 5 I believe) and is from a trusted brand should work just fine. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-WB1733D-I-1733Mbps-Express-Adapter/dp/B07FBSV1XZ for example, or https://www.amazon.co.uk/T6E-Archer-Wireless-Interface-Low-Profile/dp/B013HCNTZU?th=1 .
The "best" wireless card is going to be about 5x the price for 5% higher performance. What you need is a "good" wireless card.
If this is for a new build, then should look at motherboards with WiFi built it. It's often cheaper than way. If this is an existing PC, look on uk.pcpartpicker.com or www.amazon.co.uk and find a WiFi card rated for AC 1300 or so, that has 4 stars or higher.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/T6E-Archer-Wireless-Interface-Low-Profile/dp/B013HCNTZU/
or
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/bQ8Zxr/asus-wireless-network-card-pceac56
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013HCNTZU?ref=emc_b_5_t
Example
I'm from the UK but you can find the same for wherever you are.
ASUS PCE-AC56 Carte PCIe Wi-Fi double bande AC1300 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RArXCbTSS5QY0
Gigabyte GC-WB1733D-I Wireless-AC PCI-E Network Interface Card + Bluetooth v5.0-1733Mbps https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FBSV1XZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5BrXCbRWMABE3
TP-LINK T6E AC1300 Archer Dual Band Wireless PCI Express Adapter with Two Antennas https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013HCNTZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6DrXCb6GTM261
I believe the gigabyte one also has bluetooth 5.0 ( not too sure you can look it up) but I would say these are popular ones and worth money. Personally the asus or gigabyte one will do great!
This would be my suggestion too.
Also to buy a 5GHz PCIe Wireless Card.
Something like this; https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013HCNTZU/
This is the list from the post. He bought the suggested parts.
Published on Jul 5, 2019
Gaming Benchmarks & Prices for this PC: https://youtu.be/L8hmFm_Z2NM Here is my step by step tutorial on how to build my $600 Spark V2 gaming PC! Links to parts, tools, and resources are below. How to install drivers on this PC: https://youtu.be/uDHeIx9CNxA How to install windows on this PC: https://youtu.be/AfC5ViBiRQM Social Media: INSTAGRAM: https://www.instagram.com/scattervolt DISCORD: https://scattervolt.com/discord TWITTER: https://twitter.com/MarcAranibar ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Parts List: Buy the CPU here: US: https://amzn.to/2RLpfGS UK: https://amzn.to/2IZGktR CA: https://amzn.to/2Xe48mu EU: https://amzn.to/2FINgcH Buy the CPU Cooler here: (optional) US: https://amzn.to/2NmbjVh UK: https://amzn.to/2YpAib8 CA: https://amzn.to/2LuP2BR EU: N/A Buy the MOTHERBOARD here: US: https://amzn.to/2Xa6VZb UK: https://amzn.to/2FJUYU1 CA: https://amzn.to/2NxkQJk (ATX version, cheaper) EU: https://amzn.to/2xjq00m Buy the RAM here: (different brand, same specs) US: https://amzn.to/2LzikiK UK: https://amzn.to/2IXjWkW CA: https://amzn.to/2JjrtJN (single stick, still 8GB) EU: https://amzn.to/2YjTgA8 (2800mhz, still fast though) Buy the GPU here: US: https://amzn.to/2ZXbCal (different model, cheaper) UK: https://amzn.to/2xmm3Z2 CA: https://amzn.to/2RLlVLI EU: https://amzn.to/2JgfXyG (different model, cheaper) Buy the SSD here: US: https://amzn.to/2Ls5ClV UK: https://amzn.to/2XftxY6 CA: https://amzn.to/2RQ59ve EU: https://amzn.to/2xlJstn Buy the PSU here: US: https://amzn.to/2XEqgWp UK: https://amzn.to/2xrGu6x CA: https://amzn.to/2XJW9gi EU: https://amzn.to/2XeVHlW Buy the CASE here: US: https://amzn.to/2XEwuWm UK: https://amzn.to/2xvOTpX CA: https://amzn.to/2NpVKMe EU: https://amzn.to/2IYym44 (Optional) RGB case fans: US: https://amzn.to/2XhH7z4 UK: https://amzn.to/2LsQmW9 CA: https://amzn.to/2XgfNMX EU: https://amzn.to/2J2T82u ---------------------------------------------------------------- PC Upgrades: If you have $25 More to Spend: (SSD Upgrade) US: https://amzn.to/2Nxsvaa UK: https://amzn.to/2Lzj8Ei CA: https://amzn.to/2RONZy6 EU: https://amzn.to/2LptJlc If you have $75 More to Spend: (CPU Upgrade) US: https://amzn.to/2XhOou4 UK: https://amzn.to/2FCNzpB CA: https://amzn.to/2XBPkxr EU: https://amzn.to/2XimLWs -------------------------------------------------------------------- PC Accessories/Building Tools: Handy Magnetic Screw Driver Kit: US: http://amzn.to/2Fdh03o UK: http://amzn.to/2FWsndf CA: http://amzn.to/2FROG3u DE: N/A Bios Speaker (for troubleshooting): US: http://amzn.to/2FokCi6 UK: http://amzn.to/2FokKOC CA: http://amzn.to/2oK2DsU DE: http://amzn.to/2FTLSmv USB Wifi Adapter: (For a wireless connection) US: https://amzn.to/2WsrqE3 UK: https://amzn.to/2JNrNDp CA: https://amzn.to/2M8FXk9 EU: https://amzn.to/2VVLEl8 PCI Card Wifi Adapter: (For a faster wireless connection) US: https://amzn.to/2XCtslr UK: https://amzn.to/2IYnnrw CA: https://amzn.to/2ZXccVz EU: https://amzn.to/2FHN65u Cat7 Ethernet Cable: (For a wired connection, fastest, plug into router) US: https://amzn.to/2W9dShq UK: https://amzn.to/2MfphaM CA: https://amzn.to/2W4XNt0 EU: https://amzn.to/2JK1DkP Windows 10 Home: US: https://amzn.to/2EByu7c UK: https://amzn.to/2HEIIWj CA: https://amzn.to/2YRlbqJ EU: https://amzn.to/2YRIxgc *Here's how to install Windows 10 for free on your own USB drive: https://youtu.be/AfC5ViBiRQM
Here's a good PCI Wireless Card I found meeting your requirements, but keep in mind you could also use a USB Wireless adapter like this one, which has amazing speeds for a USB adapter.
Thanks for posting these, they're really interesting!
Regarding the Aorus z270 guide, I've been wanting to build an ITX Hackintosh (I want a small computer) but I'm not sure about WiFi. I'm a little confused, but it seems like a lot of people use a PCI-e card that supports both WiFi and Bluetooth, like this one. But that motherboard has only one PCI-e slot, which I want to put a GPU in, so would I be stuck on Ethernet? Is there any other way to get WiFi and Bluetooth working (don't care about handoff)?
> Fenvi FV T919
Which one did you purchase? I am looking on Amazon, and see multiple types under the same link. FYI, I am looking here:
https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Desktop-Wireless-Hackintosh-Supporting/dp/B01IVIHPBY
Fenvi Desktop Wireless Card 2.4/5GHz draft 802.11n 300Mbps Desktop WLAN PCI-E Card Windows Mac OS X Hackintosh System Also Supporting Windows 7 Window https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVIHPBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ICGI9R2jRy2mj
I greatly appreciate your time. I ended up ordering a Fenvi PCI card from Amazon. It worked straight out of the box and was $18 shipped to Colorado,USA.
https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Desktop-Wireless-Hackintosh-Supporting/dp/B01IVIHPBY/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506794477&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=hackintosh
this is the one i grabbed works with Hackintosh as well
Similar to this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVIHPBY
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Adapter-Wireless-Network-802-11AC/dp/B01JUCUMBK/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495339779&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=802.11ac+wireless+adapter
I've been using a wireless network card in my PC's for years now.
They works great, and ive never had any problems.
This one to be exact.
On-board Mobo adapters can be a bit iffy in my experience.
Rosewill WiFi Adapter / Wireless Adapter / PCI-E Network Card , 802.11AC Dual Band AC1300 PCI Express Network Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JUCUMBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_hoX3sXAKKzTBh
Did my first build last week and have had no issues with Wi-Fi speed.
Alright. Your build looks good in of itself.
If you still need to drop the price then the CPU could be a good place to start. (Although with the sale on the i7 with the current build in OP your total comes to around $1260 so I'd say you're fine)
Just want to stress how 802.11ac Dual Band is basically 2-3 times faster than the 802.11n standard (which was like 2013 standard). If your router doesn't support AC, then yeah you could go with that one, but if it does (as most modern routers do), then maybe this or this or the ones mentioned in my previous comment.
Sorry for the late comment, was like 1 AM where I live and well... sleeep
Also worth mentioning that I was looking for a board with more PCIe slots and no wireless capabilities since I already invested in a nice 802.11AC PCIe adaptor.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JUCUMBK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521490698&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=rosewill+wireless+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41vwf%2BfhUnL&amp;ref=plSrch
It's pretty good and is fairly cheap...my setup is on the second floor and even with thick walls I still manage to get around 10mb/s download speed when downloading games from steam :)
probably another model, this has never been even close to that on amazon
https://ca.camelcamelcamel.com/Rosewill-Adapter-Wireless-Network-802-11AC/product/B01JUCUMBK
I'm thinking about buying this WiFi card (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FBSV1XZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZUguDbZWZNMJC) to use with my B350 Tomahawk Arctic but don't know if I have the correct PCIe slot? I'm currently just using a graphics card (no sound card etc). Can I buy this?
Thanks!
You need two devices. Bluetooth transceiver to plug in you pc. And Bluetooth receiver that you can carry with you.
I can't recommend specific models but first should look like this (It can look like usb dongle but i couldn't find or you can use tranceiver that connects to pc audiojack) and second like this
Sidenote. If i am not mistaken there shouldn't be difference bettwen Bluetooth 4.2 and Bluetooth 5.0 for stereo headphones.
A USB solution will work, but you'd be better with a PCI-E WiFi card instead. Your motherboard has a suitable X1 slot next to the X16 slot your GPU is in.
Try this one - it's very well regarded and less than £30.
This is fantastic - thank you! (edit: I like the choice of case, too!)
Two questions from me - the PSU seems to have been on sale and is now closer to the upper 70's. What would be your opinion if I were to go with an equivalent Bronze-rated offering from Corsair or EVGA? They seem to sell well on Amazon. The max. 5% difference in efficiency doesn't seem that bad?
Secondly - any advantages of the Asus wireless card over something like the Gigabyte GC-WB1733D-I? Only a few pounds of difference, but I'm curious - is it a case of reliability?
I can’t speak for all cards out there but I bought this fairly cheap wireless card and it works fine, the only “issue” I had with it was my Xbox One controller doesn’t stay paired to my PC however I have since came to realise that this is an issue with Windows, not the card itself
May I suggest doing the repair yourself? Wi-Fi cards are typically pretty easy, and are quite cheap too. Usually just requires opening backplate, removing one screw, disconnecting two cables, and popping the new one in its place.
Measure the current card size. If it's 22mm wide X 30mm long you should buy this WiFi card
Intel Wireless-AC 9560, M.2 2230, 2X2 Ac+Bt, Gigabit, No Vpro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G42J6KQ/
Huh, i did some research for u and the semi modular 450W are more expensive somehow (prolly cus there arent many of them), so i say keep what u have. For MB my suggestion is compare those with wifi with those without. Sometimes it is cheaper to just get a no wifi MB with a PCI slot and then put in a wifi card. What is your budget for MBs? that would help me look for em.
This is the wifi card I use btw. u can find a little cheaper but that has blue tooth and is fast
https://www.amazon.com/Ubit-1730Mbps-Bluetooth-Dual-Band-WIN10%EF%BC%88WIE9260%EF%BC%89/dp/B07PMGJ9XY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1X3YA4PPODXAV&keywords=pcie+wifi+bluetooth+card&qid=1560801620&s=gateway&sprefix=pcie+wifi+bluetooth+%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Easy solution. Get a bluetooth chip that either plug right into your mobo or a usb plug.
mobo chip
usb plug
Is that significantly better than this?
https://www.amazon.com/1730Mbps-Bluetooth-Ubit-Dual-Band-WIN10%EF%BC%88WIE9260%EF%BC%89/dp/B07PMGJ9XY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wireless+bluetooth+pcie&amp;qid=1564693433&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=wireless+bluetooth+pc&amp;sr=8-3
It could be walls and the router struggling to get signal through, it could be your WiFi it is hard to say. Probably best bet would be getting another WiFi card and check, nothing fancy just a most recent
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ubit-1730Mbps-Bluetooth-Dual-Band-WIN10%EF%BC%88WIE9260%EF%BC%89/dp/B07PMGJ9XY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=wifi+pci+pc&amp;qid=1567526683&amp;s=gateway&amp;smid=A158I6UZAZKHGU&amp;sr=8-5
Cool, so something like this will do what I want reliably?
I was thinking of looking at something with bluetooth 5.0 as well, would this one be good? https://www.amazon.com/Ubit-1730Mbps-Bluetooth-Dual-Band-WIN10%EF%BC%88WIE9260%EF%BC%89/dp/B07PMGJ9XY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=bluetooth+5.0+pc&amp;qid=1573060164&amp;sr=8-4&amp;tag=tvshowreminders-20
https://www.reddit.com/r/hardwareswap/comments/dyv1b2/usacah_alienware_aw3418dw_dell_s2716dg_intel_core/
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https://www.amazon.com/Ubit-1730Mbps-Bluetooth-Dual-Band-WIN10%EF%BC%88WIE9260%EF%BC%89/dp/B07PMGJ9XY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Ubit&qid=1574891674&s=electronics&sr=1-1
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This guy has a great, cheap wifi card.
I literally use or recommend many of those parts. I have that Noctua cooler in my rig. I also recommend the 1TB or 2TB versions of the 660p because it is so cheap. $94 for 1TB last I checked. I have a similar power supply, but I think we can find you a 650W (which is plenty for your build) that is 80+ Gold and fully modular for closer to $100. There is just no reason to pay $140 for Windows 10. I can't tell you how or where because of rules, but a legit Windows 10 Pro key can be had for under $20. Ditto with your wifi adapter. I recently bought a new PCIe wifi card with Wifi 6 and bluetooth 5, for $30 plus Prime shipping. Here is a good one. Unless that card also has dual 10Gbps AQANTO networking cards built in, there is no way it is worth $100.
What you described might actually take advantage of 8 cores and 16 threads. Usually gaming has an 'all you need is 6' mentally which is why the Ryzen 5 3600 is so often recommended. I will also say that just about anyone would recommend the RX 5700XT over the 2060 Super. It is the better card by a country mile and the Gigabyte Gaming OC (my personal favorite) is $420. I hope that helps and you can at least see some places to save money and increase performance.
There haven't been any major issues once the bios updates have gone through. The MSI Max line doesn't even need a bios update and has done well. $130 for an x570 is a pretty good deal though. Since you've already got the board, you can pick up a WiFi/BT card like UBit's combo card: https://www.amazon.com/Ubit-1730Mbps-Bluetooth-Dual-Band-WIN10%EF%BC%88WIE9260%EF%BC%89/dp/B07PMGJ9XY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=bluetooth+and+wifi+card&amp;qid=1571977010&amp;sr=8-5
The 5700xt performs around the same as the 2070S. On some things the 5700XT does better, on other games the 2070S does better. It depends on the game, the card drivers and how each are optimized. The two cards perform very similarly overall. The 2070S does have better energy consumption and lower heat generation as well as slightly better drivers overall. If they were priced within $20 of each other, I'd go with the 2070S, but for $100, I could live with the 1-2% win or loose difference of the 5700xt.
The 1080 Ti has an older architecture that leaves it lagging a bit behind the 5700XT in performance. It's a faster card but the 5700xt puts out better FPS due to design improvements. The 1080 TI does have 11GB of GDDR5 VRAM versus the 8GB of GDDR6 VRAM in the 5700XT. So while you have less VRAM it's much faster VRAM.
Or would this be better?
I thought it was a laptop you were talking about... So add an extra $10 for the PCIe adapter....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCI-E-Wireless-2400Mbps-2-4Ghz-5Ghz-Bluetooth-5-0-Wifi-Adapter-Intel-AX200-Card/193011279482?hash=item2cf05e667a:g:rSkAAOSw9gtdOC~h
or this one...
https://www.amazon.com/AX200NGW-MU-MIMO-Wireless-Bluetooth-Support/dp/B07SHPKKBR/
Just saying that the new AX200 you can find on ebay for $15, you just need the pcie adapter.
How reliable would you think this brand Ufon is? I have no other choice but to go with WiFi and I was curious what everyone thought of this adapter if it is worth it or should I shell out $100 for something from Asus instead?
https://www.amazon.com/802-11ax-Adapter-Network-Wireless-Desktop/dp/B07SHPKKBR
>Let me know if you come across a good wifi card in the country. Not keen to go for banggood straight-away.
I am looking at those options because they use Intel controllers. I found one with Intel AX200NGW controller which was launched April this year. Off-brands are quicker than the mainstream. But apart from the PCIe card brand name seems irrelevant. Pricing looks awfully tempting but those M.2 modules itself are cheap even on retail.
Specs:
Ali Express link:
They are sold in Amazon US, too:
he also said great things about the AORUS ELITE. thats why idk between the two. Also i found a wifi and bluetooth module that looks good. Also since i have a 100/100 wifi, how much of a difference will i see? For example, if i get good connection (100 up and down), will i be able to download stuff faster with these pcie wifi cards?
Not heard about this brand but this has a good spec, based on the intel AX200 chipset I think
https://www.amazon.co.uk/fenvi-PCIe-Next-Gen-AX200-802-11ax/dp/B07SPCL2FZ
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Another branded
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabit-802-11AX-2976Mbps-Bluetooth-Wireless/dp/B07SHPKKBR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ax200&linkCode=sl2&linkId=4417b317a24d6308af37d3b12a9a235f&qid=1574628968&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQlBUMk1XRVJOMUVEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjU5MjA4MzFBMjNUQk5RMkVSQyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDkzNTc4MTFDNTRCVTE1R1dZNyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/2976Mbps-Bluetooth-Adapter-Wireless-Desktop/dp/B07SHPKKBR/
if you have the space in your pc and don't have AC WiFi then you might be interested in something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/2976Mbps-Bluetooth-Adapter-Wireless-Desktop/dp/B07SHPKKBR/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=intel+bluetooth+wifi+card&amp;qid=1574189440&amp;sprefix=intel+bluetto
Your build looks good. But I couldn't find any reference for the warning you mentioned in the comments .BIOS updates are tricky and if there's any issue why not go with a different CPU/chipset and avoid it altogether?
Since you've got some left over cash I'd also recommend a wireless card which might come in handy if you want to connect your PC to router wirelessly.
Here's a wifi 6 card that looks decent
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SPCL2FZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_cT6jDbKS77Z8G
If you're not looking for wifi 6 go with 802.11 ac PCI module.
Not the same guy you replied to, but there are a couple of add in wifi 6 cards out already if you're interested in that. So far I've seen:
I can only vouch for the Fenvi one (haven't used the gigabyte one) and it works pretty nicely. Only gripe is that I had to connect to Ethernet first to download drivers. As for wifi 6 capabilities, I don't have a wifi 6 router at home so I can't say anything much about that. I also don't have an old wifi card to compare wifi speeds.
I'm not saying wifi cards are bad, I'm sure there are wifi 6 cards with external antenna that would perform almost as well as an on-board chip. The issue is most external wifi cards have small antenna, especially the USB ones, and being so close to the case and other components makes for a high chance of interference. I just did a really quick search, so I'm not suggesting this specific product, but something like this is about equal to a current on-board card https://www.amazon.com/fenvi-802-11ax-Internet-Wireless-Next-Gen/dp/B07SPCL2FZ?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
The issue I see is $40 added to the cost of a cheaper mobo would usually get you a model with on-board wifi included. So your only going to save money by getting a lower quality card. Of course if your current networking setup doesn't support wifi 6 and you don't plan on upgrading it doesn't really matter. Your use-case scenario is quite important to decide before building a system to optimize your investment. If your not gaming thru wifi where latency matters it might not be something worth the investment. My wifi completely replaced my wired network so it was worth the investment in a $250 router and $300 mobo with on-board wifi to get the full speed of my cable internet everywhere in my home.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SPCL2FZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2woADbJKG4H2X this is what I got and is really fast. Probably the best you could buy right now.
fenvi PCIe Wifi Card Next-Gen Wi-Fi 6 MU-MIMO OFDMA AX200 802.11ax PCI Adapter wifi 6 for PC Network Wireless PCI-e Card 2x2 2.4/5GHz BT 5.0 2.4Gbps 11AX Miracast vPro AX200NGW With Advanced Heat Sink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SPCL2FZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8j1qDbKCXK3AS
I would get something along those lines personally, should last you for a good while, I bought my wifi card in 2016 and it is still going strong
These work well, won't fix your issue but at least you'll have the 5GHz running