(Part 3) Best parts & accessories according to redditors

The efficiency is about 75%, or about 10% less than induction, both are far more efficient than gas. The technology hasn't changed but replacing the elements with newer ones helps if the older ones are wearing out. Gas is way cheaper in much of the US, and can more easily be made to hit higher BTUs. So when combined with greater control, it is more popular for 'serious' chefs.

Ahh the infamous GE's water dispenser freezing issues caused by a choice of bad designs. Yes thousands others have gone through it. GE's solution for their f' ups? Well sell them a heating element (nothing but two wires and aluminium) for $35.

http://www.amazon.com/GE-WR49X10173-Dispenser-Heater-Refrigerator/dp/B004H3XWCO

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-279827-Dryer-Drive-Motor/dp/B00DM8JA5S

>Whirlpool 279827 Dryer Drive Motor

Found by putting the model number clearly on the label into Google.

LG Electronics MJX41178908 Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve

There should be a rule in this sub that requires OPs to search for the text that appears on the object before submitting.

One-way vent. When the fan or blower on the inside is on the little louvres open up and let air out. When the flow stops they flop back down so outside air can't get in. Used for clothes dryers, bathroom fans, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-Industries-DV1-1-Exhaust-Mounting/dp/B008BFZGUU

Buy one of these

and

Watch this

I've picked up a refrigerator brush at Home Depot and just shove that thing back and forth in the radiator. Have the vacuum going at the same time to suck up the dust like a shop vac or a grizzly would in a wood shop.

The braided hoses are good. I would recommend getting ones that have auto shutoff valves if there is a drastic change in the pressure differential.

Auto shurofd hoses

It looks like this is the light in question. They make a "yellow" light for the same hood, which seems like it would be more to your liking. Check it out. From the picture, it looks like you can just remove the set screws and swap the new lights in with the quick connect cables.

As always, even with low voltage, I recommend turning the power off at the breaker before you touch anything.

Apparently, there are anti-walking pads specifically designed to solve this problem (I know, I was surprised, too!). I have not used them, but they appear to have received excellent reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Anti-walk-Silent-Feet-Anti-Vibration-Machines/dp/B00536VQE0

It's a 1/3HP electric motor intended for a dryer, intended for whirlpool dryers.

Not sure the exact readings for the coils, but they should have some resistance across all 3 pins on the one coil. Also, almost all coils are the same, you, can use this pack for around $10, but any appliance parts store should have them.

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-279834-Valve-Coil-Dryer/dp/B004XLDEAU

Need a new lid switch my boy

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-3949238-Washer-Lid-Switch/dp/B00DM8JA7Q

Google whirlpool lid switch replacement videos.

Water should flow out of hole pretty quickly,you could have debris in drain. Assuming fresh food section isn't freezing, consider adding heater extension to keep drain from freezing. https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-819043-Heat-Probe/dp/B00DM8JPZS

Even better you should get Flood Safe hoses

Specifically, this water inlet solenoid

Maybe full oven racks with wooden blocks to keep them elevated?

e.g. https://www.amazon.com/WB48K5019-WB48T10095-Hotpoint-Kenmore-Assembly/dp/B00943C890/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469831125&sr=8-1&keywords=oven+racks

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L4I780W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482619003&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Whirlpool+side+in+range+filler+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=21DIdoanhKL&ref=plSrch@

Try this. It doesn't mount to the range but this is what is meant to fill that gap on their more recent slide in ranges. Should work for what you are describing.

Pull it down and add a 90 to it and slip it back up?

Also since you are all humped up. It would be good to install something like this.

Dryerbox Model 425 DB-425 | New Construction 2x6 Walls - Venting up https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008J4WY58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CV9DDb3HANV1S

If you have 2x6 wall. I think they make a 2x4 version too.
It makes it so your hose does not get smashed.

No, you need to have the penetration through the siding flashed correctly to have the water be diverted out and away from the opening that the vent will make.

You'd normally use a J-channel flange. You'd cut your house wrap behind the siding so that it laps over the the top flange. Caulked and taped properly, then cut and reinstall the siding so that it goes into the J-channel flange.

It’s likely not installed properly.

Every washer I’ve seen midline and above for some time has had anti vibration support feet that you may have to adjust.

If that fails, Sorbothane will solve your problem.

Sorbothane Anti-Vibration Anti-Walk Washer and Dryer Machine Floor Pads (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00536VQE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8n7JDb6PFXW8M

There’s various options at various price points if you’re willing to roll the dice. For me, the Sorbothane brand has always performed while others have been hit or miss.

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Dryer-Refrigerator-Brush-ProTool/dp/B0046OEAHK/ref=pd_sim_201_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0046OEAHK&pd_rd_r=YKCXZWM6ETGHMWE6NB9B&pd_rd_w=O5Mvq&pd_rd_wg=J21e9&psc=1&refRID=YKCXZWM6ETGHMWE6NB9B

Almost, this is a 50A cord, what OP needs is a 30A dryer cord. Like this

Difference is that the range cord has 3 straight blades where the dryer cord has 2 straight and an L shaped blade.

Having the same dilemma here, might end up using something like this and caulking it with silicone. It's a gap filler for behind slide-in ranges, they're 30" wide already.

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10113902A-Gap-Filler-Kit/dp/B00L4I780W

         Parts List for (PID Controller Box)<br />

Some of these parts may be purchased at your local hardware store for a cheaper price.....


• Dual Digital Display PID Temperature Controller: http://amzn.com/B002PIM3R8

• Solid State Relay w/ Heatsink: http://amzn.com/B005K2IXHU

• PT100 Thermocouple Sensor: http://amzn.com/B008MU0VFY

• Aluminum Project Enclosure Box, Econobox: http://amzn.com/B005T7RPFC

• 3 Pin IEC320 Male Power Socket w/ Switch: http://amzn.com/B00F4MGRRE . TIP - Replace Fuse With F15AL250V.

• GX16-3 Aviation Connector:http://amzn.com/B00FB56T04

• Black - Tamper Resistant Power Receptacle: http://amzn.com/B002L6H414

• Gray - Tamper Resistant Power Receptacle: http://amzn.com/B002L6H428

• IEC320-C13 Power Cord: http://amzn.com/B0012EI6KE

• Rubber Feet: http://ebay.com/itm/351131287090

• Heat Shrink: http://amzn.com/B00EXLLXK8

• Fork Terminal Wire Connectors - Non Insulated ~ 16-14 AWG: http://amzn.com/B00LUUAB94

• Female Disconnect - Non Insulated: http://amzn.com/B0071OXJ5Q

• Insulated Copper Wire ~ 18-14 AWG

• Nuts & Bolts

I used these two walkthroughs as guides:

• http://imgur.com/a/uGyF1
  
• http://www.instructables.com/id/2-Player-Bartop-Arcade-Machine-Powered-by-Pi/
  
  
  
  Total estimated cost is ~$500 based on:
  
  
• Flat-pack wooden cabinet with T-Molding: $185
  
• Joystick Set: $65
  
• Misc parts to make missing LED cable from Joystick Set: ~$15
  
• 22" Monitor from Craigslist: $20
  
• Raspberry Pi Kit: $50
  
• 128GB MicroSD Card: $41
  
• Speaker Bar: $20
  
• LED strip kit: $12
  
• Cheap Power strip: $8
  
• Power socket: $6
  
• Custom Marquee Printing: $50
  
• Miscellaneous Home Depot Purchases: ~$25

By shifter you mean this? https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10006355-Actuator/dp/B00DM8KQ2Y/ref=pd_ybh_a_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0746CRB38JEB9QG2VJY9

i noticed in your first photo that little piece of copper wire. my guess is that you have that wrapped around your defrost heater.

you can try putting one of these defrost probes in there instead. I always run some 1/4" tubing all the way through also and make sure it pokes out both sides, just to clear our any extra gunk.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004H3XSBE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_8toJAbSGCA8DE

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LXB7YO0/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_JuoJAbP18Y9BZ

Make and model of the dishwasher?

Edit: GE calls it a Unicouple Assembly

These coils were the ones I bought initially: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XLDEAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon has them. Some reviews say the replacement is brighter, but who knows

White LED light for XtremeAir Range Hoods, 2w 12V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AXDFYLO

here you go OP https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-316442301-Element-for-Range/dp/B005B9CUD0/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1493347362&sr=8-10&keywords=electric+burner+for+electric+stove

Or if that's not big enough, try this:

https://www.amazon.com/WB48K5019-WB48T10095-Hotpoint-Kenmore-Oven/dp/B00943C890/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480901403&sr=8-1&keywords=replacement+oven+rack

Def appreciate your input. I was planning on using a dryer vent box. This one in particular : Dryerbox Model 425 DB-425 | New Construction 2x6 Walls - Venting up https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008J4WY58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hd.xDbM9S7E8D

Bad idea? Is there anyway to achieve a clean look

> W10248240
Thank you so much for the info (everyone). I think you have nailed it OldLonely. I will start my troubleshooting tonight and order the part.

If you see this, would this part work. ATC swithc.

http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10248240-Sensor-Switch/dp/B008YDT3PI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396543648&sr=8-1&keywords=W10248240