(Part 3) Best power strips according to redditors

http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SS7415-15-Multiple-Protection/dp/B00019OWWW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373377523&sr=8-1&keywords=server+power+strips

Found the same thing on amazon for $12 that doesn't have the horrible rip-off shipping and handling that I saw from the Side Socket people.

amazon prime hoooraaaay

here you go. and it's cheaper

It's not an installed receptacle. It's one of those plug into wall socket with extra USB power add on plates, it just looks like a normal socket... https://www.amazon.com/Huntkey-2-Outlet-Cradle-Charging-SMD407/dp/B01ALHQQU4/ref=mp_s_a_1_52?adgrpid=55857320637&gclid=Cj0KCQiAno_uBRC1ARIsAB496IVpw-3Yp7w0nmagv_ZCE_WNWp52cEWNWMeHHb4qk8cVvK4RnfIgBsQaAhV7EALw_wcB&hvadid=274719587477&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9031961&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1305057526069853486&hvtargid=kwd-298397964177&hydadcr=25251_9902062&keywords=usb+wall+sockets&qid=1573163424&sr=8-52

When I was looking up power strips, this was one on my lists but the reviews where people complained about it having decreased in quality and the random burn outs made me look for other alternatives. Wasnt about to risk my PC or house burning down when I wasn't home. Was it an overreaction? Probably but at the time, the difference in price between these two was less than $10 so it wasnt that big of a deal for me.

I settled on this one instead

APC 12-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip with USB Charging Ports, 4320 Joules, SurgeArrest Performance (P12U2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079BTBMS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cSpHDbCPCN8AH

I used something like this.
It might not have enough outlets for OP, but he might be able to use something like this or this at the top part.

Last summer we started taking two of these on tour:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FHNBKYO/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01FHNBKYO&pd_rd_w=HHdE2&pf_rd_p=733540df-430d-45cd-9525-21bc15b0e6cc&pd_rd_wg=tb33k&pf_rd_r=0ST8964Q54ZQHD07NBZN&pd_rd_r=30c89a2f-390a-11e9-9879-bb7f1328ddae&smid=A3UENWQOYWIPH9

It's not that small but Tripp Lite make metal cased ones
http://smile.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-3SP-Waber-Outlet/dp/B000F99CJG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1415325677&sr=8-4&keywords=tripp+lite+strip

It's a different kind of ugly, and has a sort of industrial chic if you like that sort of thing.

Personally I'd buy one the length of the desk and mount it underneath
http://smile.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SS7415-15-Protector-Outlet/dp/B00019OWWW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415325677&sr=8-1&keywords=tripp+lite+strip

Something like this would work, although I'd be shocked if you can't find that, and for cheaper, in Hong Kong. Just ask for North American plug adapters.

Check the adapters for your electronics (110–220 V?), but you probably won't need a voltage converter; that adapter is all you'd need. If you want to plug them in in the same place, you can bring a power strip. Something like this would work without needing an adapter for the wall.

I also faced this challenge, and then I discovered a surge protector tower with 10-12 outlets like this one

Now there is very little to stop me, and my girlfriend weeps for our water/power bill.

Tripp Lite SS7415-15 Multiple Outlet Strip w/ Surge Protection 15-Amp 16 outlets 15ft Cord 450 Joules
http://amzn.com/B00019OWWW

I really like it! I doubt I'll ever need all 16 of those outlets but I like having my options open. I really got this specific model so I can mount it underneath my tabletop when new desk arrives.

Back in the day my aunt and uncle had something like this... https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Under-Monitor-Protector-MT-6PLUS/dp/B0000512E1
Only it was like 20 years ago so it looked like a piece of 90s computer hardware.

> The hotel rooms have far fewer outlets than US rooms, so a combination of an adapter and a surge protector with multiple outlets might be necessary if you have a few electronics or need to share a small space with several people and their devices. (And if you need a converter in addition to an adapter, keep that in mind as well.)

Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UHYDYO/

Use a prong adapter to fit the NEMA 5-15P plug into the local wall receptacle. The universal outlets on the strip means you're still able to use whatever was filling the receptable beforehand (or any emergency local purchases, for that matter).

What problem are you trying to solve?

You can share multiple consoles on one tv input with a switcher -- like an hdmi switcher if that's how they connect.

In terms of power, maybe look for under monitor power centers. It's been years but the old ones had bright lighted switches. Might find one for free or cheap at a goodwill.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Under-Monitor-Protector-MT-6PLUS/dp/B0000512E1

It's a good start.

A few tips:

• Let the top of your bench overhang about 1" past the front and ends of the support framing. It makes it much easier to clamp things onto your bench when there's an overhang.
  
• If you're planning to install a vise (very useful) plan the support members accordingly to accommodate the bolt pattern.
  
• Add more electrical outlets by either re-wiring the wall or buying one of those giant workshop powerbars (Example) and screwing it to the bench.
  
• Depending on your garage storage, hang a sheet of pegboard above the bench to hang your tools.
  
• Consider the height of the tools or storage bins you might store under the bench. Set the cross-brace height to accommodate those things so they'll slide underneath.

Reddit did not like my text. here it is. I wanted to replace my glass L-shaped computer desk as I had it for 10 years and wanted to fix issues I had with it. So I laid out my requirements:

1. I wanted a wood top, as glass, while easy to clean and maintain, is colder than wood.
   
2. Improve cable management to hide as many cables as possible. Glass/metal table not effective here
   
3. Hidden power strip
   
4. No table legs blocking me from moving back and forth between home and work computer.
   
5. Current glass desk is 30 inches deep, I like that depth.
   
6. I wanted the table height to be able to fit my file cabinet underneath to clean up the space
   
   I looked at roomandboard.com, and found a table I liked, but not cheap, with shipping, around $1700.
   
   http://www.roomandboard.com/catalog/office/desks/parsons-leg-l-shaped-desks
   
   So can i do it myself for less?
   
   I started by looking on r/DIY and came across pipe desks. Great idea, industrial look, and would fit in with my building as i live in a gentrified industrial neighborhood.
   Here was a great example:
   
   https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/2w3phn/pipe_and_butcher_block_ldesk/
   Shoutout to u/tylergarner as I stole some of his ideas, such as the powerstrip he used and the metal mending strips. Thanks!
   
   My issues with this DIY (not everyone has these constraints)
   
7. Having to strip/paint pipe - i live in a loft and have limited space, fumes/vapors will kill brain cells.
   
8. Loved the wood, but would have to sand, stain and poly it. Sand would get all over the loft and again, fumes/vapors.
   
9. I am not experienced with staining, so may screw it up.
   
   So i needed to solve the wood top issues and the legs problem.
   
   Solving the Table top issue.
   
   I looked online for options for wood, and found options besides Lumber Liquidators that have finished wood tops
   www.crosscuthardwoods.com (local portland, oregon store 2 miles from my loft) - they carried two brands
   
10. Michigan Maple Butcher Block http://www.butcherblock.com/products/residential-products/residential-counter-tops/
    
11. John Boos - here is an example on amazon
    http://www.amazon.com/John-Boos-Thick-Commercial-Butcher/dp/B005IZ2EZQ/ref=sr_1_19?srs=2594426011&ie=UTF8&qid=1450283655&sr=8-19&keywords=john+boos+maple
    
    Local companies in your city may be able to order these or maybe a different brand
    
    Benefits of buying finished
    
    1. looks great
       
    2. Quicker/less work
       
    3. can be ordered with poly finish (no chemicals)
       
    4. can be custom ordered with edge (e.g., bullnose, square edge) and size
       
       Issues - costs can be higher and staining is not possible
       
       Things to consider if you choose this approach - Ensure you know if you wanted finished (Poly) or unfinished. You can get it either way. John Boos will burn their logo into the wood unless requested not to have name.
       
       I decided on 60 by 30 by 1.5 inches thick Maple, square edge, poly and no logo. Good news is that crosscut had it in stock by both vendors.
       John Boos $328 and Michigan Maple ($298). I went with John Boos as the finish was smoother and the wood pieces were the length of the table, not the traditional butcher block style.
       I bought two.
       
       Solving the Leg issue
       
       I searched on line for "metal table legs" and found several vendors.
       http://www.tablelegsonline.com/table-legs.html
       http://www.tablelegworld.com/Table-Height-Table-Legs
       Ikea sells them as well
       
       I was unsure the height so i went with cheap and fast, adjustable black legs from Ikea. $15/each needed 7 ($105 total)
       One of the two tables is short a leg, below I talk about how i support the missing leg.
       https://us-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?action=showLetter&umid=2_0_0_1_344973_AIt2imIAABORVnERMgfrWKGy%2F3A&box=Inbox&src=td&.rand=1808515774
       
       The legs are ok, adjustable, and low shine black, but not as rigid as I wanted. Not an issue when assembled, but more just me knowing it could be better. I later found out that i could buy the cool square legs from Room and Board for $40 a piece.
       
       Connecting the two tables together
       
       I saw that u/tylergarner used a window sash to connect the two tables together and I was going to run with that, but I then saw this idea on the crosscut site.
       http://www.crosscuthardwoods.com/tite-joint.html
       
       I loved the idea of tite joint, but as I did not want to burrow into the table so i looked around and found this, which I installed.
       
       http://www.wwhardware.com/epco-joint-fasteners-e0026e $15 shipped.
       
       I bought a much longer screw from Ace HW to enable more space between the brackets so I am not screwing too close to the edge.
       You may be able to go to a countertop store and buy one from them as they use them to connect countertops together.
       
       Supporting the missing leg
       
       I installed two of the following
       http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-in-Zinc-Plated-Mending-Plate-15390/202034036 ($3 each) I used #12 screws to mount these.
       These work very well, zero sag, even after sitting on it for a few mins (155lbs).
       
       Costs before my options (Around $800). So I saved $900 over the room and board solution. I am happy.
       
       Options I chose to install.
       
       Wire management - Ikea
       Cheap and highly effective. $10 each, bought three.
       http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30200253/
       
       Drawer to hold pens, paper and the like
       http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWM8EEK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
       Love it, $35 from amazon - did not find many options here. Maybe searched on the wrong terms
       
       Power Strip
       http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027D3LNG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01
       
       Lots of plugs and spaced out so no conflicts accessing them, $28 amazon
       
       Adjustable Keyboard Tray
       http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B0DCOO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
       $95 and a crappy 3M design, sticks about 1 inch out from the edge of the table when installed as designed. would not buy again.
       
       How did i mount my PC underneath my desk?
       
       I had a smaller version of the following.
       http://www.storables.com/10-x-24-shelf.html
       I used 1.5 inch fender washers and screws where the legs go to mount to the table, then I used cable ties to hold of the PC (intel NUC) and USB drives.
       
       
       Note:
       I did not use any of the screws provided in the legs, or options i selected. Maple is very hard and the philip screws they provided strip very, very, very easy. I went to my local Ace Hardware store and bought my screws. 5 min walk and could by individually versus a whole box from HD/Lowes. Saved money and frustration.
       I generally got the biggest diameter screws I could get the fit the hole for the legs, and they are in there, zero issues. Ensure you drill pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood, I followed this guide for hardwood and was mostly successful http://engineershandbook.com/Tables/woodscrewpilotholes.htm
       
       Options to lower costs
       
       
12. Buy a solid wood door and rip to size. Lowes and HD sell them.
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/JELD-WEN-30-in-x-80-in-Woodgrain-Flush-Solid-Core-Unfinished-Hardwood-Interior-Door-Slab-THDJW160700464/202036255
    
13. Buy a cheaper type of prefinished wood than maple.
    
14. Ikea apparently sells some countertops that can/maybe able to be used, but I did not look into it.

It's only $60 on Amazon

Buy two 25ft 8 port surge protector and run one to the left of the outlet and the other to the right. Go to a hardware store and buy some cable clips which your can screw to the wall. That will allow you to secure the cords along the wall and off the floor. You can screw the surge protectors to the wall as well.

As for safety, a long as the cords are against the wall you'll be eliminating any trip hazard. Do not daisy chain surge protectors or connect an extension cord to a surge protector.

The short list:

-a decent pair of ear plugs if you like to sleep in more than 1 hour increments bc Vietnam has to be in the top 5 for noise pollution,

-bring a surge protector or buy a 220v surge protector there ~$2.50 USD in the markets bc electricity in vietnam is sketchy,

-spare phone charger & cable bc electricity in vietnam is sketchy, unlock your smart phone before you go,

-forget the shoes and socks/dead weight, you'll be getting very wet more often than not, wear some throw aways on the flight and buy flip flops ~$2 usd when you get there bc tevas won't last

-long sleeve UV shirt bc you don't know hot until you've been in vietnam and sunscreen is useless

-I'd bring my own helmet bc I trust any [DOT rating](http://westwards.typepad.com/photos/vietnam_201302/helmets.html) more than the novelty baseball helmets sold as protection there. You might opt for a face shield also if you plan on riding in the rain,

-change money in the jewelry shops, the difference bt one versus the other is usually less than a buck,

-travel with soap and TP/wipes bc it's not readily available in most businesses

There's more but this is what I can think off the top of my head. Are you male or female? Are you backpacking or on a tour?

Don't leave it on. Use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SSFRES0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

here is a link

https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Power-Strip-Extension-Protector/dp/B01FHNBKYO/ref=sr_1_3?crid=9EWNCE3646K7&keywords=standing+power+strip+tower&qid=1567364912&s=gateway&sprefix=standing+power+stri%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-3

Sure, but something like this has the same functionality (minus the USB-C). Even without being 2/3 the volume of the cube, it’s a much better shape for wedging into a tight backpack or suitcase.

With this you can easily shield the switch by taping something over it and it has a 360 degree plug:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191DTXD6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used two strings of those here, and they work like a dream. There are a bunch of vendors on Amazon selling those, and just a warning that some of them (like the ones I got) come with a usb plug instead of a wall plug. I used an old Apple wall adapter I had, but the lights fried it. If you you have the same experience, I would recommend a wall adapter (like this ).

And thank you!

The current smart power strips, that I know of, only assigns one of the outlets as energy monitoring. Also, they only offer 3 outlets and not nine, so I'm not sure how useful they will be to you. However, just to be complete, I've listed them below so that you can do further research and see if any of them are useful to you. The Voco is Alexa compatible, but the Koogeek is not. They are both Homekit compatible, but the Voco exposes the energy monitoring to Homekit so that you can turn an outlet off when the time, or wattage, exceeds certain values.



https://www.amazon.com/VOCOlinc-PM2-Protector-Qualcomm-QuickCharge/dp/B074Z6HGXD/ref=cm_cr_srp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/Koogeek-Protector-Outlets-Charging-HomeKit/dp/B074PV2MT3/ref=cm_cr_srp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

This option is pretty pricey, but since you didn't list a budget, this is (in my opinion) the bar-none best desk money can buy. I have one and almost one year later I'm still freaking in love with the thing. It's built to last and I don't see myself ever getting rid of it (unless I move someplace where it doesn't fit, but then again, I probably wouldn't move to a place where it wouldn't fit :) )

UpLift Standing Desk: http://www.upliftdesk.com/stand-up-desk-with-bamboo-top/

A few of the nice points:

• Standing desk, so fully height-adjustable
  
• Comes in a variety of sizes up to 80"x30" with many different options (their other models come in different woods too)
  
• Vast, unobstructed desk space with plenty of room in the corners for accessories & lamp
  
• Desk legs are out-of-the-way (to the side) so there is nothing blocking your legs in or cramping your sitting/motion. Plenty of room for PC, paper shredder, subwoofer, trash can, etc. underneath without sacrificing leg space
  
• Desk thickness is perfect for monitor arms and microphone arms (and I HIGHLY recommend arms for your monitors, you don't realize how much desk space you get back until you own them!!)
  
• Built to be extremely solid and sturdy. No plastic anywhere and (as you'll find when you assemble it) the designers have gone a bit overboard on making sure the connections are rigid and plentiful.
  
• The motors are quiet, quick, and powerful
  
• Cable management on the underside of the desk via Cable Clips keeps everything sleek, clean, and beautiful
  
• Screw one of these babies into the desk underneath and towards the back to easily power all of your accessories (they also have offerings with more plugs, if you really need that)
  
• The underside is also perfect for a USB Hub or other accessory - just Command Strip it or screw it into the bottom, slightly recessed from the front lip of the desk to have a super slick, subtle, and clean IO panel for your phone, USB sticks, etc. Consider a second USB hub hidden elsewhere underneath for peripherals that are always plugged in (keyboard, mouse, microphone, headphone amp). This is great because only one cable needs to actually go to your PC, and new peripherals are really easy to add.
  
• The power strip + USB hub strat means that you end up with only a small handful of cables actually coming way from the desk, which you can feed through cable braid for a super-sharp and clean/tidy look
  
  If anyone is interested in buying one, don't bother getting their optional "cable management" kit, the recommendations above work way better in practice.

I use something like this

https://www.amazon.com/BESTTEN-12-Outlet-Wide-Spaced-Protector-Extension/dp/B01CCX0LJ2

(Not this exact one, but one very similar. Mine has the outlets rotated 90 degrees.).

Especially if you're moving into an apartment, extension cords. I own about five and they're extremely helpful. I never thought I'd have so many things to plug in.

If I win, surprise me. :)

I'd suggest looking into the Belkin proectors.

https://www.amazon.ca/Belkin-Outlet-Protector-Telephone-Protection/dp/B000HPV3RW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478094896&sr=8-4&keywords=surge+protector

Lifetime warranty beats out the ones you listed and is half the cost. The joule rating on any of these should be plenty. I can't really say how much anyone needs, more is better. I think the most important thing is the warranty. As long as the surge protector is being used properly then Belkin should honor any warranty claims.

Also, if you have your own home/renters insurance, this sort of thing should be covered even if Belkin doesn't honor a warranty claim.

You may consider a surge strip with EMI filter. My amp doesn't have any kind of filtered power inlet and I can pick up radio waves and other line frequencies when I use it in certain places on our third floor.

This is probably not ideal in your case, but you could always replace the cord with a filtered inlet and power cord.

Yeah, I don't use it every day either, but it still freaked me out. Purchased one of these for the outlet that I plug it into, and it works fantastically: https://www.amazon.com/Single-Adapter-outlet-Switch-energy/dp/B00SSFRES0

No, but you can get a "smart" surge protector. You plug the TV into the "main" or "master" slot, then plug the Roku into one of the "controlled" slots. Then, when you turn off the TV, it will cut power to the Roku a second or so later.

The disadvantage is that the Roku will have to boot up again when you next use it, so it's not as fast as leaving it on.

Edit: I just looked online and I'm seeing a lot of new surge protectors and power strips being called "smart" because they have wifi or voice assistant compatibility; that's not what you want for this. The important feature for you is the "master" and "controlled" outlets.

I don't have experience with these specific models, but these list the features:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D3VPJIA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002K8S2J6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP9M3DO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XDQAC4

5". The surge protector in that basket is this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HPV3RW and it fits comfortably. This is the cable basket https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLZZ2RZ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013KO70CI (3 prong extension cords, 1 foot long)

It looks odd to see a bulky power wart on the end of the cord but it's fine as long as you can put it someplace where it won't be bumped into and possibly knocked loose. I also have some outlets designed for large power warts, e.g., https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FHMPV1S, but have found that I prefer the short extension cords.

First, most PSUs support 220V but check anyway.
Second, you can buy a cable over there for the PSU and each part that needs it or power strip+UStoEU adapter to avoid buying a different cable for each thing.

what i did: get a 3 or 4 ft power strip, like so: http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Wire-Cable-PB800012-12-Outlet/dp/B0027D3LNG

Screw into the rear underside of the desk, or in your desk's case, maybe onto the back near the top.

That would keep all your power cables up off the ground. Liberal application of velcro straps could remedy the rest.

Is that different from this power strip below in amazon?

https://www.amazon.com/Opentron-OT4126-Metal-Protector-Outlet/dp/B00O8NVPBI/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1480988313&sr=8-20&keywords=power+strip

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Wire-Cable-PB800012-12-Outlet/dp/B0027D3LNG/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1480988313&sr=8-18&keywords=power+strip


https://www.amazon.com/Surge-Protector-Power-Strip-Workbench/dp/B01JDQPAB0/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1480987836&sr=8-21&keywords=power+strip

What about something like this instead?

It has 15 outlets for plugging into and is mountable, so you could attach behind your TV cabinet.

As for the TV, If you get a tilt mount, you could always mount it higher up to preserve the aesthetic of the TV stand and still tilt it down for comfortable viewing....

Good luck!

Bring a US powerstrip or two to plug into the plug converters.

Not sure this is close enough to what you are looking for, but in my office i have a unit like this on my desk. One button controls desk lighting, next button controls monitors, next button controls the surge suppressor mounted on the side of my desk, next button controls my soldering iron, last button controls the bench power supply i built. Using the master button to turn everything off is a great way to make sure i don't accidentally leave my soldering iron on when i am done for the day.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000512E1/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've unplugged it for now— waiting to see if I should just plug it back in or wait to get an appropriate strip. I wasn't able to find an FCC ID but this is the information I found on the back of these:

Verizon: Max Load: AC125V 15A 60Hz Model:C2401 E257463 P/N ASBPB642BK

Belkin: "Surge Protective Type 3" Max Load: 15A 125-60Hz 1875w VPR: L-N 500V. L-G 500V

Also took what you said and am researching for some other strips, not sure if this one is overkill? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HPV3RW/ref=twister_B0774PW9R4?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

Wish Verizon would tell me if the one they gave me is just their property or if there's some reasoning behind it but those wait times.

Here's a cleaner solution. I love this thing


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FHNBKYO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E1u7Ab0WXPZCH

[Surge Protectors] (http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-6-Outlet-Surge-Protector-2-Pack/dp/B0031RFVJ4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1369166362&sr=8-4&keywords=surge+protectors) Those stinking dorm rooms have about .5 outlets. You may even buy extra and use them to make friends with the neighbors:) Would you like a falafel with that?

[flip flops too] (http://www.amazon.com/Havaianas-Mens-Brasil-Logo-10-11/dp/B001RNOIVQ/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1369166539&sr=8-13&keywords=flip+flops+for+men) and make sure you get the kind that are NOT slippery when wet. Because I made that mistake and fell straight on my ass the second night.

That one has 680 joules of protection before needing to be replaced. One like this as 5500 joules of protection and is cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0191DTXD6?psc=1

3-outlet + 4-usb that i travel with.

6-outlet + 4-usb that i use around the house

I got a Belkin a few years ago, but after more research it seemed that "Experts" state that if you are buying this for lightning protection then it's pretty much worthless. The lightning has too much energy (1 billion to 10 billion Joules) for a simple surge protector (few thousand Joules) to stop it or to redirect it. The only true protection is for your structure to be properly grounded, so the lightning strike has a low impedance path to ground and not into your electrical appliances or yourself. I still use a surge protector out of habit, but it's not a magic protection box that I first thought it to be.
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812107193
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000HPV3RW/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all

https://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?p=12036266&sid=28f6be70d6377c67732b75b90c78495e#p12036266

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FHMPV1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah man, what are you saying? I am more confused than before I started. How would you suggest to power a 2 plant closet grow. I am in an apartment so can't go crazy with wiring. Its about 20 feet from the outlet. I have 3500k lights, exhaust fan and oscillating fan? This is what I have. Strip

Here is what I got for my charging station:

1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LS5R6OS/
   
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719DLVKS/

@techiedealz:
>2016-03-27 22:21:46 UTC

>Tripp Lite 6 Rotatable Outlet Direct Plug-in Surge Protector ($12) amazon.com #deals pic.twitter.com ^[Imgur]

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I think they are still just surge protectors. Are you thinking of something like...

http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-MT-6PLUS-Monitor-Protector/dp/B0000512E1/ref=pd_rhf_pe_s_cp_3_D6VY?ie=UTF8&refRID=0395SQKF2S1YK2HM7BDC

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Protector-Right-Angle-TLP825/dp/B000UD3LPI/

My wife and I are currently on a RTW trip for 1 year. She has a 38L pack and mine is 42L (Gregory z40). We aren't camping, but I couldn't definitely fit a sleeping bag in my pack if I wanted to (and I could strap a sleeping pad on the side).

For charging, get a set of adapters (you'll probably only need one or two) and get a power strip. This one has been awesome for us: http://www.amazon.com/Simran-SM-60-110V-250V-Universal-Protection/dp/B003UHYDYO/ref=pd_sim_e_3 - Check your devices, both they should already be friendly with european voltage, so you WON'T need a converter.

I got two of these for under 40$ combined at Frys.

A surge suppressor (or protector) has a resistor in it that will protect your electronics from electrical surges. A basic one doesn't cost much since there isn't much to it. If you want a better one, go for something that's rated at least 600 joules. If you spend over $30 and didn't get a battery backup then you were ripped off. If it doesn't show a joule rating then don't buy it, it's not doing any surge suppression.

Erm, I did forget to mention I live at an apartment. Would I still be able to have an electrician install a whole-house surge protector?

So something with a UL 1449 approval like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-6-Outlet-Protector-2-Foot-2-Pack/dp/B0031RFVJ4/

done. Don't know what country you are in though, so I'm just assuming US.

Should absolutely ok people all around work don't even know this thing exist and their pc are still working.

There is also smaller solution you will just plug in socket and then plug anything in to it.
https://www.amazon.com/Huntkey-2-Outlet-Cradle-Charging-SMD407/dp/B01ALHQQU4/ref=mp_s_a_1_50_sspa?keywords=power+surge+protector+socket&qid=1561986768&s=gateway&sr=8-50-spons&psc=1

I finally got it to boot by switching around the bios thankfully. I’m very glad that it wasn’t soemthing major, but still obviously something caused it to trip and loose its connection to both m.2s. Once booted up, both are recognized and successful.

But I’m still very curious about what you’re saying for future proofing anything. I’m using this surge protector. My pc setup is around $10,000 total, so protecting my investment is a must for me. But I work in Electronics and my understanding is that a surge protector should be sufficient? Especially a name branded one like apc (I don’t use any UPSs). The whole house is filled with these, not the same model but almost all APC. Doesn’t just even one surge protector save other electronics within the house, giving a fast connection to earth if voltages were to spike?

If not the case, what is better suited for this? I know most are going to be made with gas ground arrestors and variable thermistors. What’s a feature one should look out for?

This is the surge protector I bought. It has a lifetime warranty and looks like it protects $200,000 of attached electronics.

How about one of these, bud?

My google-fu is failing me, but what about a Master/Slave power-managed surge protector?? (Again, words are failing me, I'm sure there's a broad term for these types that I just can't come up with.) Something similar to this here:
https://smile.amazon.com/Uninex-Controlled-Protector-Eliminates-Electricity/dp/B01D3VPJIA


I had one a few years back, I think it was a GE brand, it had: 1 "always-on" outlet, then a "master" outlet that, once the device plugged-in to it was turned-on, the powerstrip would allow the other plugs to have power.


With that in mind, you could keep the Xbox in the "always on," then plug the monitor into the "master" outlet, get a USB wall-plug for the fans and here's the clever part: with the Xbox set to turn-on the monitor (from the System Settings >Device settings), whenever you wake the Xbox out of its Instant-on slumber, the Xbox should turn on the monitor which in-turn would passively power the USB fans via the slave/master outlets. That should work, right?!?


Alternatively, you could go the higher-tech/more-investment way and control the USB fans via thermostat, this one runs for $40 while there's another one for $17. I have no experience with these though, but I suppose they work since there's an entire market for them (and they are mostly highly-rated FWIW).

Thank you!! Looking on Amazon, see one similar to what you described, that look about right?

Seems a bit pricey. Try this one or better yet, the best of both worlds

Here's one example - https://www.amazon.com/Uninex-Controlled-Protector-Eliminates-Electricity/dp/B01D3VPJIA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1539785537&sr=8-5&keywords=master+control+power+strip

Notice in the pic the red plug - that is the master control outlet and when the power to what ever is plugged into that outlet is turned off the black outlets also turn off.

You're right that they are getting harder to search since all of them now have "Smart USB charging" so when you search smart power strip they all show up !! ( maybe try "Master Control power strip" )

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I wanted to run this buy you before I purchased.

I came across this power-strip on Amazon and looks like it comes with the necessary adapters for all global outlets (obviously I would only need European this time). It is rated as being compatible with AC100-250V 50/60HZ. And I'd be able to use it back home in the US when I return.

Is this a good move for Italy, Germany, and Netherlands?

Jesus. How bad is your power? Usually a $30 surge protector does just fine.

Also check the manufacturer's website, they often have a downloadable document that certifies it for travel on aircraft.


Example https://www.resmed.com/us/dam/documents/articles/travel-compliance-letter_amer_eng.pdf


Also consider something like this to take along as often you will need a different plug and some places dont have many outlets available in hotel rooms. https://www.amazon.com/TESSAN-Protector-Plug-Adapter-Australia/dp/B01MY7JYCE/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=travel+power+strip&qid=1557997507&s=gateway&sr=8-8

The method you're suggesting would take more materials and time, and be more prone to dangerous mistakes, than at least a couple other methods.

If you don't need real diffuse lighting like a string of A19 lightbulbs would provide, you could just use a power strip with some clamp lights and maybe an extension cord or two to position the lights/power strip "switch" where you want it. power strips can often be mounted to walls with just a couple screws.

If you want more generic lighting but don't need a whole string of work lights like u/DialMforMotherFucker reccomended, you could use a 2-prong extension cord and a few of these temp outdoor rated light sockets. These are super easy to install and require no wire stripping!

Could you just buy something like this and plug in your chargers? JACKYLED Power Strip - 14 Outlet Plugs with 4 USB Slot 6.5ft Cord Wire Extension 3000W Surge Protector Universal Socket Charging Station for PC Laptops Mobile Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FHNBKYO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_potOBbYBTQH4Z

Just letting you know, I decided to buy new and am looking at these 2. Both seem to be rated great and I checked fakespot and others and they both seem to be legit in terms of reviews.

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I found most cheap ones have 3 USB ports but 3A total output..

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https://www.amazon.com/Separate-Control-iClever-BoostStrip-Charging/dp/B01LS5R6OS/ref=sr_1_47?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1536890421&sr=1-47&refinements=p_72%3A1248879011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_36%3A1253503011

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https://www.amazon.com/TROND-2-Outlet-Protector-Efficiency-Nightstand/dp/B07B4786FM/ref=sr_1_75?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1536890628&sr=1-75&refinements=p_72%3A1248879011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_36%3A1253503011&th=1

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Thanks for the info!

How much power was the DJ Pre II pulling? More than an alarm clock?

Would a power managed power strip have worked in your setup? When you shut off your receiver it cuts power to the managed outlets.

Or upgrade to a phono preamp with auto off. NAD Electronics PP 2e refurbished $120. Costs a lot more, but you should also get an improvement in sound quality.

Technically any suggestions that include an extension cord is a fire hazard. A[ surge protector with a 25ft cord] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UD3LPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.XyVAbEGMWJ4C) would be the safest option (and technically to code).

I've not seen a built on with GFCI, unless the GFCI is done via a circuit breaker rather than built into the outlet.

But I would imagine you could use a plug in outlet adapter. Something like this or this

Immersion heater

Just be careful to only plug it in when it's immersed, and unplug it before removing it from the water. Also helpful to keep it attached to a switch.