(Part 2) Best satellite tv splitters according to redditors

With a 300 ohm to 75 ohm balun, and an A/B switch. Set the Atari to output on channel 3, and add it to your TV channel lineup. Run the atari into one side of the A/B switch, and your antenna into the other side of the switch. When you want to play your console, switch to channel 3, switch to the input that has the atari attached, and turn on your game system.

Yes, you actually can use a 40 year old console with modern TVs if you so wish.

Power is way too high and you have a lot of errors. You can either ask your ISP to come and have a look at it, install an inline pad yourself or install a splitter in front of the modem.

10 dB coax attenuator

3 way splitter, you'd use one of the -7 dB outputs.

If lowering the power doesn't help, then you have no choice but to get your ISP involved. Try the pad first because it's the easiest thing, unless you already have a splitter laying around.

Linear 2512 ChannelPlus DC & IR Passing 2-Way Splitter/Combiner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006JPEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iBjWBb1S7QF6Y

One if three will do much better for combining two signals. Using a regular splitter backwards will likely eat up most of the improvement you’d gain.

It's just an AV/RCA splitter. I don't know if it would slow down the gameplay though. Something like this would work.

You need a HDMI to DVI+AUDIO adapter. Plug external speakers and you are good to go

https://www.amazon.com/Revesun-high-definition-converter-convert-digital/dp/B00P28H4Y0

HDMI Splitter 1 x 2, NewBEP 1 Input 2 Output HDMI Amplifier Switcher Box Hub Support 4KX2K 3D 2160p 1080p (One Input To Two Outputs) https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B01MT12OQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ME1ZCb3P79TVZ

I have my Switch, 360, and ps3 hooked up to my monitor using an HDMI switch, and an Audio Extractor. This works super seamlessly, I just turn on whatever console I like and the Hdmi switches and I am able to get digital audio out automatically. I use a headset mainly, one of my friends have a logitech z213 speakers and they sound pretty nice! Hope that helps!

Think this might better suit your needs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L0X2GIU/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This splitter may be another option for you. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L0X2GIU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I get 11 channels right next to Gainesville High School.:

• 5.1 WUFT-HD (PBS)
  
• 5.2 WUFT-CREATE (PBS)
  
• 5.3 WUFT-DT (PBS)
  
• 9.1 WNBW-DT (NBC)
  
• 9.2 WNBW-DT2 (MeTV)
  
• 20.1 WCJB-DT (ABC)
  
• 20.2 WCJB-DT2 (CW)
  
• 28.1 WGFL-DT (CBS)
  
• 28.2 WGFL-DT2 (My11)
  
• 51.1 WOGX-DT (Fox)
  
• 51.2 WOGX-DT2 (Movies!)
  
  
  
  I used to work at Gainesville Television Network. In order to pull in the stations above, you'll need an attic to put an antenna in - or you can mount one on the roof or outside pole.
  
  Antenna 1: Amazon Basics clone of the Leaf antenna
  
  Antenna 2: Clearstream 5
  
  Combiner: Channel Plus Combiner/Splitter
  
  Signal Booster: Motorola Signal Booster
  
  Take those items and some lengths of RF cable (CATV style cable) and connect as such:
  
  Cable from each antenna into the two ports labeled "IN" on the combiner.
  
  One cable from the "OUT" labeled port of the combiner to the "RF Input" connector on the signal booster.
  
  One cable from the signal booster "RF Output 1" to your TV.
  
  One cable from the signal booster "Power 12vdc" connector to the included power adapter, which is then plugged into the wall for power.
  
  This will pull in the above 11 stations nearly anywhere in Gainesville. Of course, your results may vary depending on your location and such.

Similarly to /u/ZeroShift I ordered a ViewHD, went with the 4k version because I didn't need audio separation, just something to remove hdcp for my magewell capture device.

HDMI is limited in length but there are HDMI extenders over cat5e (or Cat6, which is just a more recent and better version of Cat5e)

Here is the first link at amazon https://www.amazon.com/164-Feet-Extender-Power-Cable-EX-165C/dp/B01GYH8DOM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538441264&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+over+cat5

Cat 5E is the hero of this story.

Keep in mind that all the runs of cat 5E go from the wiring closet to the separate rooms of the house. You would have a router in there and maybe a phone system. They don't really need much in the way of ventilation. You might want a file server which would generate some heat and you might have an amp in there (if you want multi room audio) which would also require some cooling.

Other than Cat5e you could use HDMI cables for short runs and some low voltage cables, but length is really an issue there. The more V/A you are sending the shorter the length can be.

You also might want to put some security cameras and an alarm panel. Usually alarm systems now are wireless, but I haven't looked into that in a while and wired is always better than wireless if you can pre-wire. If you do put cameras in there, you'll also want to have a Network Video Recorder to record the cameras.

Cameras can use Power Over Ethernet (called POE) which will give you power and ethernet over the same Cat5 Cable (didn't I tell you it was the hero of the story).

If you put the wires in conduit you can always pull additional wires if you run a pull string along with the other wires. Do this.

You can even use cat 5 for the alarm connections, no rule says you have to use all the wires.

Also think about access points. Some access points use ethernet. These are the ones you want. Keep in mind they need an AC source as well so run power to where you want those access points. Look at mesh networking it's cool. Still in it's infancy but it's good.

Think about a front door bell. There are a couple of different ways to do it. I used ring with mixed results. I had to put a 2.4GHz access point right below the doorbell to get the stupid thing to work.

Oh and then there are smart mirrors. Those are cool. One in the bathroom would be awesome.

Finally if you want to run speakers to rooms you might want to run some speaker wire to the smart locations.

To the wiring closet I would run 2 or 3 20 Amp services, as well as some sort of AC if you are going to run servers or anything cool. You can never have too much power going to your wiring closet.

That's all I can think of.

For your aspect ratio problem: I presume the image is squished on your recordings? I'm not familiar with the AVHD, but check for an option in your recording settings regarding 4:3/16:9 capture, I know I have to tell my Elgato to record in 16:9 as compared to 4:3.

Also, component at 480p is the best quality you can get from the Wii. Are you using splitters to get the signal to both your TV and capture card? If you are, you may want to invest in a powered component distributor (like this one) to ensure you're not losing signal quality from splitting.

Hope that's helpful :D

I'm sorry, man. I misunderstood it. There are HDMI replicators/splitters available. Small subset of results:

1. limited to 4K/30Hz: https://www.startech.com/AV/Splitters/HDMI-Splitters/1x2-hdmi-splitter-4k~ST122HD4KU
   
2. 1-in, 2-out: https://sewelldirect.com/sewell-hdmi-splitter-2-port
   
3. 4K compatible, but HDMI 1.4: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Ultra-Powered-Splitter-Model/dp/B00J4D3RTU
   
4. 4K/60: https://www.amazon.com/AV-Access-Splitter-Supports-Built/dp/B01EV4I8LS
   
   There are multiple options available. You just have to make sure all your requirements are written down (in Excel or something) and check each product against it. It's slightly annoying, but with your specific equipment where you know some things work and others don't, this is the best way to ensure your money is going in the right place. Best of luck :)
   
   Edit: to address something important /u/lonaowna mentioned: last one works with HDCP 2.2

This looks exactly like the one in OP's photo:
https://www.amazon.com/Expert-Connect-HDMI-Splitter-Port/dp/B01M66DMNH

If your Denon has no HDMI or DVI switching then you could use the converter I've linked below. It would allow you to use any streaming box with HDMI out (my recommendation is the Shield TV for long term value).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P28H4Y0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474597582&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41G7yLlipGL&ref=plSrch

It will convert your HDMI video to DVI and split the audio out to coax, which your receiver probably supports.

Yep, I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078Z5KPBL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One connects to my 65" 4k tv, the other to my 1080p projector. Obviously I only have one on at a time, but it does power both

ok so I am late to the game and there were a lot of great questions and answers

I am going to try to pull them together and add my own part

​

first thing is you want to test the antenna and amp direct to the TV

so get a long piece of coax and if you have a small tv you can position near the opening of the attic that would be cool if not you need to run one long enough to reach your tv..

See if your setup works.. no splitters.

Next if it works you want to use the signal indicator on your tv to set the position of the antenna to its best direction for the best reception.. it might just be a nudge in any direction that you need for the best signal. Pick a weak station on your tvfool report to do this.. the strong ones you won't have problems with.

​

Ok so it works and you get good signal.. now your home's wiring.

If a splitter is used anywhere on the line from the injector to the antenna it will block the voltage getting to the antenna.. UNLESS its a bidirectional AND power passing splitter.. they are harder to find than you might think .. there are a ton for satelite dishes and you can screw yourself on those...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006JPEA

see how each port says in-out and its also DC/IR power passing on all ports? thats what you should look for.. it just makes life easier

​

to tell if you are getting power at your antenna its not hard you just need a voltage tester if you live near harborfreight you can get one free (with any purchase)

https://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/7+FUNCTION+DIGITAL+MULTIMETER

go up to the wire going into the antenna amplifier and test on the center wire and the outside screw on part.. you should get somewhere between 12 and 18volts DC.. make sure the tester is set on DC.

​

if you got that and your inserter is placed at your tv and its shooting power up to the amplifier then you should be getting signal..

​

like others have said you can also test without the amp and maybe thats fine.. just remove the inserter and go directly to the antenna in the attic instead of passing through the amp.

A dead amp or an amp that isn't getting power will shut down all signal from the antenna.. Its a good way to know your amp is dead if you get no signal .. but your amp is probably not dead.

a bad wire .. a bad crimp on a wire.. that can cause problems

I bought a Channel Master Preamp that came with a cable but the cable wasn't crimped correctly .. it was the small inserter cable from the power supply to the inserter.. so I replaced that and it worked fine.

so idk if i missed anything.. and others have touched on other things

​

good luck

Hardwire to an access point will always be better than a mesh system.

I was in a similar predicatment to you...3,500 sqft house on one florr.

Do you have cable TV jacks throughout the house? If you do, check out MoCA devices (I Use These). They have Ethernet on one side, and RF jack on the other side. You may have to change out splitters (I Use These) with ones for increased bandwidth. When you connect MoCA devices, you connect them on the output ports (not the input)...also, you have to make sure that you don't have any RF amplifiers in the data as they will not pass data in both directions.

4Way Swm Splitter. I don't think I've ever seen a 3.

When you replace it, make sure you put the line that's in the old splitters power pass slot, in the new splitters power pass slot.

You've identified the fix -- using a 3 way splitter as you've described will work. Just make sure the splitter is MoCA compliant and that the tuner is connected to the Bolt via USB. I have a similar setup to you with cable running to modem, tuner and Bolt in one TV cabinet. Only difference is that I'm in a single family home so I was able to run my signal from the street thru a POE filter and into one of these and it has worked like a charm. Not sure if an amp would be necessary or advisable in an apartment setting -- you may be able to get away with a simple splitter

Won't work. While it does down convert the 4k signal out one cdmi port, the HD60 can't accept a HDCP 2.2 signal. You'll need a HDCP stripper for that, so you'll xbox -> ezcoo -> 4k to tv, 1080p to stripper -> elgato

This strips the HDCP signal btw.
https://www.amazon.com/Revesun-Splitter-1080p-Ultra-Definition/dp/B014EZ7266

Edit: That scaler that is listed in the comment above is also only 8 bit color HDR, which isn't HDR10 or Dolby Vision.

P.S. I wish I saw this splitter before I paid $250 for my Gefen Scaler (which has the ability to upscale, downscale, passthrough all signals)

Edit 2: My Gefen is actually a bit better after looking at specs as it is overclocked to 600 MHz, has an aux port, and supports 10 bit color, not just 8 bit.
http://www.gefen.com/press-release/gefen-now-shipping-4k-ultra-hd-600-mhz-12-scaler-edid-detective-and-audio-de-embedder

Oh and I use one of these to combine my digital TV antenna signal and the one the modulator puts out.

[Linear 2512 ChannelPlus DC & IR Passing 2-Way Splitter/Combiner] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006JPEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0WjEDb8099ZHP)

I think you might be looking for a component video switch. I found this one on Amazon for a reasonable price.

HD60s
Not sure if the processor is good for what you want to do - but more importantly the PS3 uses HDCP (I think that’s what it’s called)

To capture a PS3 you’d need to get a splitter that can remove the HDCP to go to the capture card. I use this one:

ViewHD Ultra HD | 4K HDMI 1x2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4D3RTU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got the 4K one only to future proof it Incase I use it with something else, and I got it back in 2017 so it’s unavailable now, BUT I’m sure it’ll give you a good base to figure out what to go for.

Good luck friend!

That cable should work fine, though ymmv depending on your setup and conditions.

You might also want to consider a HDMI over Cat5/6 extender - something like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GYH8DOM?psc=1

Great signal over a long distance, and much easier to run Cat cables compared with a thick HDMI cable.

And if your house is already wired with ethernet ports in the respective rooms/areas you want to connect, it's almost a no brainer.

Here you go, though any similar switch should work.

Just FYI you can get something like this to use an external speaker system:
https://smile.amazon.com/ViewHD-Splitter-Integrated-Extractor-VHD-1X2HSACi/dp/B00L0X2GIU/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496508534&sr=1-13&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor

This should work: https://www.amazon.com/Hhusali-Intelligent-Supports-HD1080p-Black-5Port/dp/B06XRQQQJH

This is the one I got. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B078Z5KPBL/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_WJX2Db8KT46JZ

http://www.amazon.com/Revesun-high-definition-converter-convert-digital/dp/B00P28H4Y0/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPIQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_h5dwybCPR6WQ5

You'll need a capture card that can accept composite / component or something that will convert those kinds of signals to digital (HDMI converter - those devices havinv a range of quality depending on how much you're looking to pay).

When we capture older systems, 480p and below we use the the Micomsoft SC-512N1-L/DVI.

http://solarisjapan.com/products/sc-512n1-l-dvi-component-hd-and-dvi-capture-board

There's also a variant that's $100 less but doesn't have a pass through (it's also been out of stock for a while). If you get this version you'd either need a splitter or to capture the game footage from something like Amarec. Getting splitters and cables might end up costing more than the $100 you save though.

https://www.sabrepc.com/yuan-sc512-n1-l-dvi-single-channel-dvi-capture-card.html

I suggest this card because it has very, very little latency, is easy to plug and play one you have the drivers installed (no fiddling with the capture card's resolution settings to get it see whatever it is you're trying to capture), can pretty much capture anything. It simply rocks. I don't know if you consider this overkill, but if straight up out of the box quality and ease of use is what you're looking for, I feel you would be hard pressed to find something better.

For further information about the card check out this review: http://www.thethrillness.com/2014/01/micomsoft-sc-512n1-ldvi-capture-card.html?m=1

To give an idea on the difference in quality when it comes to composite vs. component for older consoles, check the the difference in these captures of the Legend of Zelda: Twilight Princess:

480i (Gamecube via composite): www.twitch.tv/overboredgaming/v/23809520

480p (Gamecube compatible Wii via component): www.twitch.tv/overboredgaming/v/27514611

As for how you would capture an older system and play it, you could use a splitter like this: 1x4 Component Video Distribution Amplifier / Splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CAIBQ9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_h9AnybG7AH449

A switch won't do this, but you can absolutely accomplish this. There are HDMI over cat cable adapters ( https://www.amazon.ca/EX-165C-165-Feet-Extender-Power-Ex-165C/dp/B01GYH8DOM/ - as an example. Not sure if that's a good one or not... Not an endorsement). You can use an HDMI splitter where all of the cables meet up (at your switch, or wherever a switch would go) and use several sender units to convert the, now split, HDMI signal to cat 5/6, and send it down the line. A quick conversion back at the endpoint and you're all set.

Some higher end home theatre solutions use this type of thing to keep av equipment out of sight. Companies and businesses use these to do things like, watch security cameras from a DVR/NVR from across the building (or to display it for customers to watch themselves walk in). Also for some digital signage applications .... Lots of things.

That coaxial splitter is not what you want. That will split a single signal into two. It has one input and two outputs.

What you need is a coaxial switch - http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Coaxial-A-Switch/dp/B0002ZPIQ4

>What kind of high quality splitter would you recommend?

Dunno really. You are mostly just avoiding the counterfeit ones. This one seems popular, but probably mostly because it is marked on the case for both splitting and combining:

• https://www.amazon.com/2512-ChannelPlus-Passing-Splitter-Combiner/dp/B00006JPEA/
  
  >Also, if I go this route,,,how far should I space them? Or does that matter?
  
  It apparently depends on the gain of the antennas. I think that most people won't have enough space on their mast to worry about it. Here is an appropriate search:
  
  
• https://duckduckgo.com/?q=yagi+stacking
  
  The 30-2476 seems to be the only high gain VHF-high antenna available right now for a reasonable price.
  
  Sometimes no amount of antenna gain can make a weak signal reliable. Signal levels can vary a lot over time/season/weather.

Thanks for the suggestion u/freakame I was looking into HDMI over CAT6 but was afraid to try it out. I followed your recommendation but used a different product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GYH8DOM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a 00' Cat6 cable.

Pi and Arduino were both from microcenter and I already had both . Everything else was originally from amazon. Not factored into my cost was the power supply. I already had one in my media center setup and was able to piggy back off that.
LEDs
Splitter
HdmiRCA
Grabber
Happy to answer any questions. This is a fun project.

Yeah, I have a ton that remove HDCP. But like you looking for one that does 4k.

I don't have my 4K TV or my Xbox X yet but I bought this one in hopes of it working:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT12OQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks. Will these work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTO99VY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AYOSS4PW7QE9I&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DC8IEE6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A21C4U5X700J66&psc=1

here it is on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/DirecTv-MSPLIT4R1-03-Approved-4-Way-Splitter/dp/B00BW60R68/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Thank you for the reply. I actually can’t find a 3-way splitter, only 4-way. I’m guessing I’ll have to attach a resistor in the terminal that will never be used.

This is the SWM I’m going to buy: 4-way SWM

I should still be fine I hope!

Most NVR systems (both older and newer) will eventually "time out" network connections so using the network for continuous monitoring is not ideal. I would first replace your current system with a newer one with an HDMI output for local monitoring. Then you can plug in any nearby TV directly to the NVR, or an HDMI extender to convert the HDMI to Ethernet (greatly increases video signal range) and you can run a cable to one or more TVs for continuous app-free monitoring. For offsite monitoring you would use the app recommended by the NVR manufacturer.

https://www.amazon.com/164-Feet-Extender-Single-Option-EX-165C/dp/B01GYH8DOM/

I'll be watching this very closely. I was JUST about to pull the trigger on this which looks like a simpler version of what you have. I'm hoping we get a good answer because I don't want to go 720p.

I was going to get this because in my basement I have a TV currently hooked up and want to add a projector. I need to go firetv into switch and then video out to TV and projector and optical audio out to receiver.

Hey, iL. I'm not in the hardware/audio area, but something like this might work as a workaround. YMMV with getting the Dolby virtual surround to work with an audio splitter: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Splitter-Integrated-Extractor-VHD-1X2HSACi/dp/B00L0X2GIU

Would this work?

I had a similar situation but in one room (I had 4 tvs and projector), I wanted any source to any display ... this for me was 4 sources (Direct TV boxes, ps3, chromecast, and HTPC)

I took each source's HDMI out and split it 5-ways... then ran each of the splits to each display.


For example:

• PS3 --> Split 5 ways --> 1: TV1 / 2: TV2 / 3: TV3 / 4: TV4 / 5: Projector
  
  Did this for all sources (Except direct TV - I had a box for each display) ... so each display had HDMI 1-4 inputs (projector was fed via receiver with four HDMI ports), I could select whatever input I wanted on any display and move what was displayed around.
  
  DirectTV was always #1
  
  PS3 was always #2
  
  Chromcast #3
  
  HTPC #4
  
  .... I chose this over the matrix style so I could expand up or scale down as needed and could keep the splits at their source, rather than have to run all my sources to once central spot then back out again.
  
  
  EDIT - a splitter like this
  
  
  EDIT 2 - this was the room before the projector came in .... I don't have photos after the projector was added with me, or of the sources behind the wall (there was a big closet there).
  
  

I googled: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=component+splitter and found these from amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-3-RCA-Component-Splitter-102848/dp/B000RJJ0XW

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-103002-Coupler-Component-Extension/dp/B002KCKX8K/ref=pd_tcs_compl_pc_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0Z5E5ZC59XC2DNEJ61BB

You would use the coupler to connect your 360 to the splitter then you would need two sets of component cables go to to your HDPVR and Monitor. If your monitor needs DVI, i'm sure there are Component to DVI cables out there.

Do you need to stretch a giant desktop over 4 screens? If so, consider an add-in GPU like the VisionTek Products Radeon 7750 SFF 2GB GDDR5 4M Graphics Card 900798.

Or duplicate the same window on 4 separate monitors? Then just use something like Tolmnnts HDMI Splitter 1 In 4 Out Powered by AC Adapter, Supports 4K@30Hz 3D Full HD1080P - 1 Input To 4 Outputs

If you absolutely must buy the computer pre-configured like that, then ask your HP or Dell sales rep for recommendations.

https://www.amazon.com/Revesun-Splitter-1080p-Ultra-Definition/dp/B014EZ7266#customerReviews

This reportedly still strips HDCP as of July 2019. Worse case it doesn't do it, you just return it back to Amazon.

Onkyo TX-SR308. Like I said. I'm fairly sure it doesn't support cross-input (or whatever the technical term for that would be).

At first I was considering something like this but as I continued to read I gathered that such an idea can be pretty hazardous to the components. I know that stereo piggyback cables exist, so why not video piggybacks? I haven't been able to find anything, but I appreciate any digging on your part.

My options, as I see them (with disadvantages in parentheses), at this point are:

• Manually switch component and composite cables depending on what I want to play (takes time, not at all smooth, generally inconvenient, given enough time, increased risk of damaging something).
  
  
• Buying a switch box and plugging in the composite and component signals (costs a noticeable bit of money, would equal three boxes total in my system and two in any given pathway - lag?).

so maybe this one? https://www.amazon.com/Expert-Connect-HDMI-Switch-Port/dp/B01M66DMNH/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1512052615&sr=1-7&keywords=HDMI%2B2.0%2Bswitch&th=1

Looks like this is what you would want if you are going to keep doing this kind of event.

I've seen devices that will selectively combine (or really replace) one channel on an antenna with the signal from another antenna. That's one option.

A friend of mine is using two antennas with a simpler combiner (he bought this one: antenna combiner) and he has had no complaints.

So there are a few ways you could do this, but I'll describe the way that would best maintain your ability to play games normally while not getting an overly complicated setup.

Basically you'll need two things: a video splitter and a capture card in your PC (as well as the appropriate software to run and stream everything of course).

You would basically run the output from the game system into the splitter, have one go to your TV as normal and have one go into the capture card on your computer. You don't want to try playing games through a capture card because the capturing process introduces lag which will affect gameplay.

You can get a simple component splitter like this (you'd also need to get the male to male adapter since the Wii has it's own plug for the output), but you would also need to split the audio inputs as well with a couple of something like this (you could of course just get 5 of the Y adapters to split each cable individually and not have to worry about male to male adapters and such).

If you wanted to stream/play both your PS3 and Wii via component that combined with the capture card you linked to looks like it would be enough - that capture card doesn't appear to have HDMI input though so you would have to use component (not sure if you're currently using component or HDMI on your TV).

You mention that your monitor doesn't have a component input - were you planning on trying to play the games using your monitor rather than your normal TV? It shouldn't be necessary to do so - with the splitter you can put the output anywhere you like so having it go to your normal TV seems like the best choice.

i definitely wanted to use it as a switcher for component and RGB inputs. I didn't know about the lag though. Is there something else that you would recommend? I'm currently just saying this as a component switcher

I bought this one back in November 2018 and used it to stream P4 Golden. Worked like a charm and the price was right: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT12OQA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You will need a USB power adapter, but you most likely have 20 lying around like everyone else at this point... lol

I use one of these to stream SSBM for a lot of NorCal. It's powered so there is no signal degradation to either source - my upscaler and the CRT. For SCART, you might need to find a SCART to RGB cable.

What's wrong with something like this? Or this if you want something more professional.

I think this will work for you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDV1RH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QX8iDbBKH5VZP

This might help you, I use one of these to switch between my ps4 and my pc that go through my A/V receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0732MD43P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iZjnDb47HAQK9

There's no one device I can think of that would do that. What you could do is get a multi-port HDMI switch like this and use a splitter for the output. It would be outputting to both the TV and projector at the same time, but you could just have the device not currently in use turned off.

Hm, interesting. How much signal loss do you normally get from generic splitters like this one?

It says -5.5dB on the label but I don't really trust that. What worries me more is that there are more splitters inside the walls that I can't even control. Those were already there when my parents bought the house in the 80s. So they're pretty old pieces of crap too. However, the outlet in my room I record from isn't affected by that, that one was a NEW wire the guy ran.

I should note though, that the cable techs seem to love those little $2 splitters. My dad has a computer opposite mine, and also wanted to be able to record TV, so they wanted to kill two birds with one stone. Rather than running two wires to the basement... you guessed it, they stuck a splitter between the two sides of the wall, and just ran one. So while I have some control over that one cable, there's still a splitter at the end. That's my main concern, as having those all over the place is obviously not good for the signal! Why else would they have a second cable coming in from the outside going straight to the modem and not getting caught up in the splitting nonsense?

So the take-away from this - you think the signal strength itself is fine (as it has been for the past 6 years, nothing changed as far as I know), but that the unusable picture I'm getting is because of MoCA interference from some unknown source sharing the same cable? It's probably still a good idea to replace that 6-year old Radio Shack amplifier with the one you linked, but I'm curious what the end result would be if I used the 20dB boost, and used a 3-way splitter coming off of that, it would negate the 20 and probably be a smaller boost. Still probably more than 7 you think? And then I can take one of those filters and put it before the amplifier/splitter.

yeah but are you splitting the component cable like this

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-3-RCA-Component-Splitter-102848/dp/B000RJJ0XW/

or like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-ST123HDA-Component-Splitter-Digital/dp/B000NK75HI/

This one works for me:

Hhusali Intelligent 5-Port HDMI Switch, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote (Black-5Port) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRQQQJH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4W14BbP0WKZZW

I have an HDCP stripper / HDMI splitter which I use to send video feeds from PS3/PS4/Nintendo Switch systems to a capture card and a screen. Splitters often offer HDCP stripping just check whatever you buy. This is the one I use. It's called the "ViewHD Ultra HD | 4K HDMI 1x2 Mini Powered Splitter | HDMI v1.4 | Model: VHD-Pluto", and it works fine. I am sure most are fine just stay away from 10$ items, i have been burned by them in the past.

Any reason you are trying to do this via software instead of a hardware splitter?


I've used UTP extenders before to push HDMI long distances over CAT5e

manche HDMI-Splitter "vergessen", das Output wieder mit HDCP zu verschlüsseln. dieses Gerät scheint aktuell recht beliebt zu sein.

Einfach nach "hdcp 2.2 stripper" suchen, findet man einiges

or, you know, spend $43 instead of $600. http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-Amplified-Powered-Splitter-Distributor/dp/B002M6LC5W/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1415151730&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+splitter+8+out

My attic is over my garage. The back portion is just piles of loose insulation, so anything past the red line is a no-go as far as installation is concered. I intend on installing it close to the NW corner of the little box I drew, so I was wondering if that is best location for it.

Edit: Previous owners had DirecTV and there is currently one of these splitters hooked up to the dish. Will I be able to unhook that connection and use it for the antenna instead? Also, will I need to get a preamp?

i use a cheap RCA flat one. I can see the TV towers near tinseltown from my window so I face the front of it north to get ION and QUBO ( i delete the other ch 21x channels). I actually have two antennas that run to an A/B switch I got online so if one becomes hard to get i can try movng the other one which is rabbit ears. I have tape marking the position of the flat antenna in case it gets yanked down... again.. by the dogs.

Ive used antenna tv since before the digital switch and I have to move my antenna a few times a year no matter if i have it on a nail in the wall or sitting on a shelf with the stand. I just wait til i am utterly irritated by it or have a very very very patient day. I miss my old tv that had a signal meter on it, it really helped get the 21s.

Use https://www.antennaweb.org/ to help you better orient yours and mouse over the different channel colors RED/YELLOW/GREEN to see the line of sight for those. I can't get 20 here by Sandalwood.

If this thread is right, then this thing will strip the HDCP 2.2 signal.

You want this: https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Unbalanced-Digital-Performance-Splitter/dp/B009FN72PO

You need lots of wires. You can't make two PC's synchronise easily. What you can do is get an HDMI splitter on the end of one of your PC sticks, then a male to male wire running to each monitor. That way both displays are running of the same output and they'll definitely be in sync.

Edit:: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-LinkS-Amplifier-Source-Displays/dp/B0732MD43P/ <- something like that.

One thing you can try is getting a simple splitter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Unbalanced-Digital-Performance-Splitter/dp/B009FN72PO

...and connect your modem to it. Try both the -3.5dB port and one of the -7dB ports. See if you get any noticeable difference. Sometimes weird upload issues can be fixed by just doing this.

But realistically, the root of your problem here is probably simple -- your ISP, like all cable companies, has massively oversold their network.

Cable systems, when they were built, were designed for one-way transmission of video -- analog cable TV -- so the entire system was based around this. Later, when they added support for sending data back into the system (the "return path"), it was an afterthought. In the US, only the frequencies between 5 MHz and 42 MHz are used for the return path, and 54 MHz upwards (in your case, it appears to be up to 870 MHz) is the normal receive path.

When they start running into congested download speeds, they can just dedicate more downstream channels to Internet service, and it's not a problem. Not all of that 5-42 MHz range is usable -- there are a few chunks of it that tend to have so much interference from outside sources, they just have to not use them.

Typically, a fully maxed out system will have a single 3.2 MHz channel for backwards compatibility with old devices, and three 6.4 MHz channels. Once you factor in overhead, that 3.2 MHz channel has a usable bandwidth of about 9 megabits. Those 6.4 MHz channels each have about 27 megabits of usable bandwidth. That totals up to 90 megabits of upload capacity being shared across your entire cable node. On a good cable system, each node will only service a couple hundred people, but in many cases, they can be stretched to serve thousands.

There is the root of your problem: you're sharing 90 megabits of upload capacity with what is likely your entire neighborhood. The solution is simple: your cable company needs to do what is called a "node split". As the name implies, this splits the area served by your node into two, by adding another new node. Though, if you're paying for 30 megabits and getting 1.5, your area is probably long overdue and needs several of these. Cable companies won't want to do this, however, because it's extremely expensive.

The other option to consider is... is DSL available in your area? If you can get VDSL2 service (such as AT&T U-Verse, etc.) you'll avoid the upload congestion problem. Your download speeds will be comparatively bad, but you should get much more consistent upload speeds.

I'm a little confused about the 'wirless'. Do you want a truly wirless connection or just one input wire in the TV? Because then you may want just an imput hub, like this

https://www.amazon.com/Component-Switch-Splitter-Selector-Converter/dp/B01M4LOU12

by excess noise I believe you are referring to the static hum you get from too much EMI? you could run that through a ground loop isolator to eliminate that hum.

they also make a HDMI splitter that has RCA/optical outs.

You could use a component cable splitter. Then split the cables to both your capture card and tv

Edit

Here is what you'll need:

• Component Splitter
  
• Component female to female
  
  When you set it up, it should look like this image.

I researched and asked on Reddit, I was suggested a splitter.

Tolmnnts HDMI Splitter 1 In 4 Out Powered by AC Adapter, Supports 4K@30Hz 3D Full HD1080P, Compatible with Xbox PS3 PS4 Fire Stick Roku Blu-Ray Player HDTV - 1 Input To 4 Outputs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Z5KPBL/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_zgb4DbH0752M7

HDFury does not as far as I know; I bought this one on Amazon that works fine. I had some trouble with it that's well-documented in the product reviews, but they can be avoided if you make sure you are using HDMI cables with the appropriate AWG rating for the cable length.

In terms of the HDMI to CVBS 4K scaler, if you don't already have it I would not use it. There's no benefit to using that versus whatever came with your Lightberry. IIRC the 4K scaler is a separate purchase for $100 or more. The HDFury Linker is downscaling the signal to 1080p (or lower) for you to process so you don't need a second downscaler from Lightberry.

Absolutely. Something like this?

Expert Connect 1x2 HDMI Splitter | 2 Port | 1 in - 2 out | Ultra HD 4K/2K @ 60Hz (60 fps), HDR | HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2 | Full HD/3D | 1080P | DTS | Dolby Digital | Direct TV | 18 Gbps Bandwidth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M66DMNH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TmRWzbXV2CXTE

You should look into using component. Wii component cables are dirt cheap, CRTs that takes component input aren't uncommon, and amps aren't even that pricey. It should look a fair bit better.

Usually a cheap HDMI splitter is able to bypass this, however you will have to go through amazon reviews to check if others have had success with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Revesun-Splitter-1080p-Ultra-Definition/dp/B014EZ7266#customerReviews

Is that different than this?


Or the switch in the OP?


Actually my problem is a little more: I want to record OTA programs on my stand alone DVR while watching cable or OTA, or record a cable program while watching OTA, without connecting and disconnecting cables.

Is that too much to ask?

Expert Connect 1x2 HDMI Splitter | 2 Port | 1 in - 2 out | Ultra HD 4K/2K @ 60Hz (60 fps), HDR | HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2 | Full HD/3D | 1080P | DTS | Dolby https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M66DMNH?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

$42.98

I do have to change the EDID mode (4 small switches on the splitter assembly [HDR setting up,up,up,up]) when I want to change to the HDR display. When using standard 4K display EDID has to be in the [up,up,up,down]. Power cycle (10 second wait in between) the splitter after every EDID change in order for the new mode to take effect.This second mode allows for dual display 4K (without HDR in my case) or whichever display is powered on if you only want single display.

Have you looked into an HDMI splitter?

I recently ordered one (just received it today) to accomplish a similar task in my home office. On my two monitor workstation, I want the option to send the monitor 1 display to a TV mounted on the wall nearby. If the monitor and TV share resolution (e.g. 1080p) it should be seamless.

This is what I got. It's cheap, has reasonable reviews, and appears to do what I want it to do. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT12OQA/

(Note: If you're dealing with 4k video, this isn't the splitter for you.)

Not sure if you solved this yet, but if you go buy a hdmi splitter that supports atmos from Amazon like this it'll work with no problems. I know it's stupid, but I have the sb46514 and without the splitter, I had maybe a 3/10 success rate. After I added the splitter it works perfectly with 0 problems.

It actually wasn't that expensive (especially compared to an all-in-one solution):

HDMI splitter|$12|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT12OQA/|
:--|:--|:--|
USB capture card|$16|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WSAWZ1M/|
HDMI to RCA|$12|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W9LQDBB/|
5-port USB charger (optional, was $17 when I bought it)|$20|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN1LM7Q/|

Just a guess but to fix washed out colors it sounds like the signal needs to be amplified, maybe something like this

Hey there. We ended up going with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAIBQ9E/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/d/B01M4LOU12

It should work for both. You'd plug the SNES into the green jack.

You need an HDMI switch and hook it to your receiver.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XRQQQJH/

I have this one and it works great, no more flickering screen.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GDV1RH2/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had the same issue but used that to split the HDMI signal. 4k output to tv and the secondary 1080p output to surround sound.

If I connected to surround sound I would lose hdcp and Netflix 4k wouldn't show up. If I connected to tv I would get hdcp 2.2 but wouldn't pass surround sound through arc. This way gets you best of both options.

This one seems pretty decent: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P28H4Y0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449240278&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+with+audio&dpPl=1&dpID=41XethzcilL&ref=plSrch

Do you have any particular splitters you recommend? I'm currently using https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTO99VY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tested by plugging a laptop directly into the moca adapter, and running speedof.me and fast.com. Both showed similar numbers. Running them while directly plugged into then router got my normal speeds of 250.

You could try a HDMI splitter that scrubs HDCP. I got this one after my Vizio would flicker every 5 mins:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4D3RTU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One of these: http://amzn.com/B00006JPEA

You wouldn't be able to do handheld mode, but you could dock the Switch and use an HDMI splitter to send one output to the projector, and another to a computer monitor or small TV.