Best transformers according to redditors

Step down transformers are bulky, heavy, and unsightly. There are very few situations where it's worth bringing electrical equipment from the US to the UK, as almost anything you can buy in the US you can also get over here, and then you don't need to have your house littered with huge transformers.

Electronic equipment is different in that it all runs on low-voltage DC, so all you need is an appropriate adapter to convert the incoming AC. The PSU inside desktop computers and the standard "power brick" that's used to provide electricity to laptops and so on are usually made to a worldwide specification, meaning they'll cope with the UK's 240V AC just fine, all you'll need is a simple and cheap plug socket adapter.

Yep, that's the jist of it.

• The Current Transformers can be these as long as they fit around your mains cables in your breaker box: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075541WVT
  (And you'd have to cut off the connectors since the board has screw terminals)
  
  
• The AC Transformer for measuring voltage, and powering the board and ESP32: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B886CWS
  
  
• This ESP32 (or ESP8266) will work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718T232Z Yeah, it's like a Ras Pi, but smaller. Can be programmed with the Arduino IDE.
  
  
• Jumper wires with Dupont connectors to connect the two boards.
  
  
• Software from my GitHub to load on the ESP32 to link everything together: https://github.com/jdeglavina/EmonESP and https://github.com/jdeglavina/ATM90E32_Arduino
  
  
• EmonCMS has their own servers that you can send data to. It looks like they just started charging a small fee per feed for this though: https://emoncms.org/ You can host the software locally if you know how to setup a web server (or rent one from a host for cheap)
  
  Honestly, the hardest part is calibrating the transformers with the board. You need something to measure against, like a hair dryer and a kill-a-watt. Then there's some math and changing some values in the main program. After some time I will probably have some baseline calibrations for various CTs.
  
  
  
  

First grow.

This took 2-3 months. Seems like I ran into a number of first-timer pitfalls along the way. Good learning experience though.

Can't wait. So god damn tired of shady, undependable hook ups.


Edit 2:

Photos of my setup.

• http://i.imgur.com/fc8wn1B.jpg
  
• http://i.imgur.com/HmUWGgR.jpg
  
• http://i.imgur.com/nOcwlPm.png
  
  
  
  Edit 1:
  
  Some have asked about my setup. This is about everything. This is my first grow so take my suggestions with a cup of salt but this stuff has worked well for me.
  
  Tent:
  
  Zero complains. Very happy with this. It just fits perfectly into a closet (had to remove the hanger bar though).
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U6WCMY
  
  
  Air
  
  
  
  Carbon filter:
  
  The inside of my tent stinks. I smell absolutely nothing outside. Don't get caught. Get a good carbon filter. Maybe not this one, but something.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FVJK60
  
  
  Inline fan:
  
  I hand this outside the tent. No need to take up any space or add any heat inside the tent.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JQ14F8
  
  
  Variable xformer for fan control:
  
  This allows me to control the noise and airflow. Every other fan controller made the fan buzz. This thing is quality built. I keep it around 50v.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS
  
  
  Circulation fans:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RTMD8C
  
  
  DWC
  
  
  
  
  Bucket top net pots:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049XIIGC
  
  
  Air pump:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPEVMC
  
  
  Airline:
  
  The black just prevents light from getting into my res.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D4XTUU
  
  
  Air stones:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050HJ7Q6
  
  
  Check valves:
  
  You NEED these. Many airlines are thin enough that if the power goes out or a hose becomes disconnected, capillary action might permit water to back-flow into your electrical air pump and/or just flood your room. Don't take chances when a .50 cent valve will protect you. There are some horror stories in the aquarium hobby about this. Note, even if the air pump is higher than your res, capillary action can pull the water up through the air hose. This is the same principle that allows 100ft trees carry water from the roots to the canopy.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00977J508
  
  
  Lighting
  
  
  
  Lights:
  
  Word of warning. Start off a good distance between the lights and your canopy. These product more light than you think and I have burned and cooked plants from keeping these too close. They don't product a ton of heat or anything. I think it's just too much light if they aren't a good foot or so away from the canopy. I assumed I could practically lay LEDs on top of my canopy. Not so.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FGFLCXS
  
  
  Adjustable ropes for lights:
  
  Chains work, these are just faster/easier to adjust.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600
  
  
  Tools
  
  
  
  Temp/humidity sensors:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8
  
  
  pH pen:
  
  I used to do chemical reagent tests (I have tons of aquariums so I had it laying around). Never again. A pen is fucking awesome for dialing in pH every morning. Get one!
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQISYQO
  
  
  Pruning snips:
  
  These are great. Sharp as fuck and solid.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SD76
  
  
  Training wire:
  
  What I use for my scrog screen and early training before the screen goes in. Also good for random shit that's temporary enough I don't want to waste a zip tie.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EXJ652
  
  
  Nutes/Water changes
  
  
  
  
  Pond pump:
  
  This is another must have! I've been using these for a while now to handle water changes in my aquariums. It's also awesome for mixing nutes before they go into your DWC. I drop one in a bucket without a hose attached and then just dump all my nutes and such in. The pump does all the mixing. Then I adjust the pH a little. Give the pump about 10-20 seconds to mix my pH up or down in and test again. I don't have to worry my pH adjustment isn't probably mixed yet. I makes the mixing process so easy and fast. I also use these to pump out my res once the scrog screen is in place.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M6MSL0
  
  
  Root protectant:
  
  One of my early problems was with brown algae. This cleared it right up after a week.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IGFH3FG
  
  
  Syringes:
  
  No guess work. I know exactly how many ml I'm adding.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB3CV6
  
  
  Cal-mag:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J2CUPW
  
  pH control:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY
  
  
  Nutes:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBT54
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO7U02
  
  
  
  
  

That's a pretty basic 120 volt to 12 volt alternating current transformer. All you need to do to find a new one is search for that plus the current rating, which is stated at 1670mA. So you want to get a transformer that is rated for at least that much, and not anything too much bigger.

I believe this should be pretty much a direct replacement.

If it could be used everyone here would use one and save that money. I don't like spending $25 on a fan speed controller either but it needs to be done. The $20 one sucks by the way, it makes your fan hum, get the active air brand it runs quieter or if you really want the quietest get a variac. But that's more money and you're looking to spend less lol. I can help you spend more but not less.

getya one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-300va-Output/dp/B006NGI8VS

those cheap ones will make the fan hum. this makes it super quiet

Yes. With shipping it's $172. And you will probably want a US power adapter.

Still worth it. It's tiny but well spaced and usable. I've had an original bassbot and x0xb0x and would take this over them any day. Pots a bit flimsy but otherwise still built better than many others twice as expensive. I think I prefer it without the sequencer- less space and I have an engine that can work like a 303 seq.

Was considering saving for an avalon but I really don't like 303 sounds that much so this is a good way to get it without taking up space/$. Most of the analog 303 clones sound good enough to me so no complaints about sound.

you can mod them too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSebDXf9rP4

This is what I have. There is no motor hum at any speed. The only thing to hear is the air that's being moved.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS

I have a speed controller like that, it makes the fan louder actually. This one is worth it if loud fans annoy you https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS

3 plants is absolute max for 2x4 and 3 gal pots are prob enough for that. my 3 plants have filled my 2x4 halfway through flower, 2 is a better number if you want good light coverage, 2 plants with 5 gal pots

> AFAIK most fans with speed regulators won't actually be much quieter on the lower setting as it just uses a variable resistor (a rheostat) to control the fan speed. Often they even have an extra buzzing noise. The only good way to alter a fan speed is to alter the AC voltage it receives. To do this you need a variac (variable AC), You can find them for 50 quid but you have to wire them up yourself.

I agree. My rig got much quieter with this variac https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS

Or if the thing is delicate or expensive (let's not over-volt that old unregulated tube power supply), use a variac.

You'll need a fan speed controller, without a doubt.

I have a 6" hurricane fan with a Can 33 filter in a 3x3x6. I have to run it pretty low to keep from sucking the sides in too much. I'd rather have too much capacity than too little when it comes to ventilation.

I bought the cheap Speedster controller and it makes my fan hum. It's really annoying. I just ordered this controller, which is supposed to be much quieter. It's larger, heavier, and more expensive, but it's worth it if it gets rid of this humming!

I'm on my first grow and haven't flowered yet, so take my advice and info with a grain of salt.

Variac speed controller

https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS

a duct silencer/muffler

https://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-FS-6-Muffler-Silencer/dp/B00HWILBSS/

insulated duct and google how to insulate/wrap a inline fan for cannabis

Well you say that, but you just obliterated a resistor by hooking it up to the mains...in any case, I won't lecture you.

A dimmer could work yes. The reason they work without blowing up or dissipating tons of power is AC magic, and we can leave it at that. You could also use a variable transformer such as a variac.

One thing I did wrong and I'd suggest you do, is make sure you get one that can handle higher amps. Some tube amps do pull upwards of 5 or 6 amps, and I got a 3 amp one and have burned a fuse or two with that being setup incorrectly, once I figured that out, I was careful to not over do it, but it was only one amp that ran at about 4A I think, not sure I recall the model etc, and it's only been one amp, but that's one important thing to consider. If you're going to use it a lot, it's worth saving up and getting a well built brand, but if not, then go for the cheaper models. I think I got this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B00BXJYO6I/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1519332865&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=variac but it's the 3A version, here's one that's 5A and less expensive, but not sure how great it would be: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B076Y2XHRS/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B076Y2XHRS&pd_rd_wg=aRA3q&pd_rd_r=CS27F03X270JC48FRH4E&pd_rd_w=YJVX3

If I were to do it again, I'd likely go for one like this that's also an isolation transformer: https://smile.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-Isolation-1000va/dp/B006NGC6HU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519332960&sr=1-1&keywords=variable+isolation+transformer

Start small. It'll save you money, let you get your feet wet, and help you learn how to grow better, and then you can buy bigger.

My "starter package" is:

• A 2' x 2' x 3' grow tent - $55.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWGYYWO
  
  
• A grow light ($90). I prefer COB's as they're easier to fix than blurples.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I4NY8KW
  
  
• A power strip zip-tied to a pole in the tent. Makes wiring prettier and easier. ($24) I chose a nice metal one, but you can use a cheaper one.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8ZQYHA
  
  
• Hangers to hold the light ($8)
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600
  
  
• A fan and filter ($70), and variac ($90) to filter smell and move air to keep things cool. This combo is overkill for this tent, but I ended up using it on later tents so it's a good long-term investment. You can cobble something cheaper together with some work, but this "just works" out of the box.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q2ER5C/
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS
  
  
• 5 gallon Smart Pot ($7) for growing, FoxFarm Ocean Forest Soil ($16.50), Plant saucer ($7) for growing. You can save some money here by shopping around. In particular, Amazon's price for FFOF is about double what I pay at the (very expensive) local "indoor gardening" center.
  https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pots-5-Gallon-Soft-Sided-Container/dp/B002JUOWB2
  https://www.amazon.com/FoxFarm-FX14053-12-Quart-Organic-Potting/dp/B001I49Q98
  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Garden-Treasures-15-31-in-Rust-Plastic-Plant-Saucer/50445000
  
  
• Go Box Plant Nutrients. This should last you several grows.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PS4B08
  
  
• Seed of your choice (let's say $10).
  
  So for about $420 (heh), you can get your foot in the door and start growing. This is a nice setup too, you can probably save $100 by shopping around, buying used, or doing-it-yourself. I've left off a few odds and ends like dryer duct, Fiskers for trimming, weed fabric pins for low-stress training, pitcher for watering, Mason jars for storage, but you can likely find those or suitable replacements around the house without spending money.
  
  I also have a Raspberry Pi 3 ($43) with Sense Hat ($37) and metal case ($15) in each of my grow tents to log temperature/humidity and other things. I'm interested in eventually using the GPIO functionality to water my plants too. Not critical, but definitely a nice thing to have, especially if you're the hacker type. If you go this route, you might look at raspiviv.com too.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6FFNY4
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014HDG74S
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722L338Q
  
  I'm glad I bought a good intro setup because I still use it now that I've upgraded. I now have a 3' x 3' GG Shorty tent with HLG 300 LED for flower, a 2' x 2.5' GG Shorty tent with two 400W Roleadro COB's for veg, and my "intro package" is now my germination/cloning tent (and drying tent too since several people suggested that too). Being able to have three tents (germination -> veg -> flower) working simultaneously is increasing my output quite sharply. I'm doing this to help a relative with cancer, so you may not need to go quite as crazy as I did.
  
  You mentioned using 35+ gs (~1.25 oz) a month. You probably aren't going to be able to grow that much given the constraints of tent size and light wattage (plus being a first-time grower! You'll learn a lot!). So once you get used to it, you'll probably want to buy more stuff. Marijuana isn't addictive, but growing marijuana absolutely is.
  
  Once you've got your hardware, the variable cost is seed (~$10), soil (~$5), nutrients (~$20), and electricity (~$30). From that, I'm going to estimate you can grow ~1.5 ozs (you can do more as you learn more though). So you're looking at ~$40/oz after you've made the initial hardware investment.
  
  Hope this helps. Depression, cancer, and everything else can just go suck it.

When air is moving we dont think that there is an electric motor turning it but not getting the benefit of the air since we redirect it. A little noise to make sure there isnt a fire is a fine exchange. If it is too loud this way try moving it in the attic away from any walls.

This is the fan set up I use and once its mounted it stays quiet.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Z1JLY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The transformer made all of the difference. I keep it set at about 75% of maximum.

I used these. They look great, but unfortunately the little clip connectors don't work with them due to the LED density so I ended up soldering all the connections which was a pain.


This is the power supply I used I connected a 3 prong plug to it to plug it into the wall behind the fridge.


The doorway was a challenge. I could have done separate power supplies and controllers, but instead I ended up fishing the wire through the void behind the crown moulding to the other cabinet. Took about a day of head scratching to figure that one out. Actually, you can see the wire hanging out of the hole in the 3rd pic before I cleaned up all the loose wiring.

You may need a step down transformer. Something like this

Don't buy cheap with this sort of thing.

Ok. My first go at it was a DIY tent out of PVC pipe and panda film. It worked well, except near the end I did not have enough air flow, the whole things grew up into the light and went tits up.

I spent a TON of time designing what I wanted in the space I could fit it in. I used autodesk homestyler. http://www.homestyler.com/designer I'm not going to share it, because I didn't even end up using the design. I have a big ass pipe that runs though it, so I rotated everything 90 degrees to accommodate for it.

Here is the mini tour of my area. the drawing is in google draw and was to help me with my plumbing situation.
http://imgur.com/a/hTpgW

anyway, the main outer walls are cement or drywall. The inner is 3/4" PVC. If I had to do over, I'd go with 1" PVC. I started with Reflectix over the pvc. This was still letting some light leak though the material, so I went and put an inner layer of panda film over it.

The doors are pvc style doors for a greenhouse. I'm not too happy with them and I'll redo them at some point, but they work for now. Better than a zipper.

Electric. I ran a 20 amp circuit just for the room. I put outlets everywhere, but I still could have used a few more.. plan for everything, I put one outlet up high for a circulation fan, wish I did a second.

Plumbing. I ran it right into my res. I pump back out into the 3" pipe running overhead. No sink... yet.

Light is a 600w ipower. I'd probably go LED if I was going to buy again.

The system is a 3x3 ebb and flow tray. I'm running 10 plants right now. I want to just get a viable mother plant. I'm going for 3 strains, so I have to do it 2 more times. After that I will clone 36 plants in 6" netpots. One strain at a time.

I use the lucas formula for nutes with General hyponics maxibloom
http://lucasformula.com/

your fan looks good. I have one of these to go with mine: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BXJYO6I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I like nirvana seeds. https://www.nirvanashop.com/en/13-indoor-marijuana-seeds

Other than that, I would say make a DIY tent first out of PVC and panda film. Get 1 grow under your belt and then build something out of wood. Let me know how it goes.

Personally I got a 301 and wish I would have gotten a 304... wish I would have made my ET a probe and not a dial gauge. I run it with artisan, but it’s nice knowing if something happens with the comp you can still roast if you want to. I also feel like there is a little lag in the computer so I glance at the thermometer from time to time.

I got an extra motor without the case as a backup ($20)

And https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XKDEVIQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Works like a charm

I went to 3 hardware stores before I realized there are inside and outside threads on the regulator to the propane tank... so you’re good there, I’m just dumb I guess

Lastly I highly recommend getting one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006NGI8VS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Happy roasting :)

I'm not a fan of those cheap speed controllers. They make inline fans hum and aren't actually fully adjustable. Something like this is much better. But unfortunately they're chinese knockoffs of the real deal, so they may have QC issues. Mine works perfectly. I opened it up to make sure everything was kosher, but a lot of people would not be comfortable with that. They're also more than triple the cost of a cheapo speed controller.

The singer 9960 is much better and has a metal frame, you need the updated one with the blue wavy lines, the old version without the lines was a dud so they fixed it and put the blue on. You can get them on the American ebay and they are cheaper even with import fees and shipping. What you want is a 300w step down transformer, I believe you are the same as the UK and 240w - in this case this is the type you need.

Amazon sells drivers also. Here is a 2100...you'll need the 2800 version

Check this out at Amazon.com
[PowerNex] Mean Well... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW1CHOY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Input ( from the wall ) is 120v A/C (typical main voltage in North America) @200ma (mili amps) ( your typical plug at home give you 15 amps, 15,000 ma)
Out put ( to the device ) is 12v A/C. Requiring 1000 ma, or 1 amp.

Your adapter is a step down transformer, transforming the voltage down and the amperage up.


What your looking for is a 120v ac- 12v ac adapter

This should be sufficient

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B8861T2/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1509949245&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=120vac+to+12v+ac

For a commercial/pro install you can put two of those boards in series connected directly to one of these guys

https://www.amazon.com/LEDGroupBuy-Inventronics-42w-Driver-700ma/dp/B00OVC9CHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=euc-042s070ds&qid=1573159206&sr=8-2

Ip67 rated so water and dust resistant. Plugs directly into ac

Couple more pluses is that you don't need anything additional like another power supply because driver and power supply are in one unit. You also can toss a basic 10k pot on this driver and dim the light as needed.

Hope that helps

Here's my [Speed controller for fan.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI2RS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) This was definitely overkill, I just didn't trust cheaper voltage regulators, plus I can and have used it for other things. Pretty well made, works great, it was only like $70-$80 when I got it though.

This was my other option, but obviously I can't vouch for it.

EDIT: I'm not an electrician so I may have been unnecessarily worried, and even now I am not 100% clear with all the mixed reviews and info around fans and speed controllers.

Larger fans slowed down with a variac is the best way to reduce noise. This fan, this variac, and this filter would be my suggestion for best products.

You could get by with a budget 4" kit, but it will be noisy and the filter won't last nearly as long.

Jameco Reliapro ACU120100D0531 AC to AC Wall Adapter Transformer 12V @ 1000 mA Straight 2.5 mm Female Plug, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B8861T2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_51v3DbGAW1DGG

This is an AC to AC adapter, but can’t guarantee the plug fit. You may need to do some surgery. If you aren’t comfortable doing that, I’ll keep looking for more of a “universal” option.

If you had the original and could post a photo of the label, it’d help a lot.

I have no experience with and have never heard of that brand, but it could work fine. I typically prefer to stick to one of the big brands in the industry, like Nutone, Edwards, or Functional Devices. For 24VAC, I use only Edwards or Functional Devices (which are available on Amazon again), and my favorite because they've got a resettable circuit breaker rather than a non-serviceable fuse inside like the Nutone and Edwards brands do. The one you linked presumably has a one shot fuse like the Nutone and Edwards, if it's even fused at all. Never know with unknown Chinese components. That's why I stick to certain brands.

Anyway, the Functional Devices one I'd recommend is $20 but that circuit breaker makes not having to replace it again if you short out a wire replacing the thermostat or something down the road really nice. https://smile.amazon.com/Functional-Devices-TR50VA004-Transformer-Threaded/dp/B0115YLEMC/ It's also 50VA, so it has a little extra capacity to handle the furnace and the ring without any issue.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/240v-110v-Step-Down-Transformer/dp/B000NIYH94

I think you're right. Would this model be compatible with my 120V, 1000W bulb? What would happen if I went up to 130V on the variac?

Damn yeah that must be loud. I have that fan as well. Highly recommend. Get a variac controller to run it as well. So you can turn it down.

PHC Enterprise SC-3M Variac Variable Transformer, 300 VAC Max, 0-130V Output, 3 Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NGI8VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l3Gjzb63MZW1C

I think this could make a sizable difference in noise. Mine really helped

3A Variac Variable AC Power Transformer 0~130 VAC by Parts Express
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXJYO6I/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_NGuwtb0A7R1N0

Get a variac or step-transformer based fan speed controller, use with a voltage controllable fan like a ruck.

No extra sound, no increased wear.

Something like This.

Anything less will probably still cause the humming and the fan damage.

I soldered my ergodox PCBs with my hakko set to 650 F (about 340-350 C). Just don't keep the iron on the switch solder posts any longer than necessary. Basically, if you don't have a perfect joint in 3 seconds, you did something wrong. The traces are small enough on keyboard PCBs that you probably don't even need that high of a temp, but I think it helped to make nice shiny joints when using lead-free solder.

The same temps worked with a separate de-soldering pump that I have that is similar to this one. I haven't used the integrated kind that you linked to before. Over 400C, you are risking burning up small traces and delicate components, but you are probably okay if you work fast. If you really wanted to control temp on that cheap desoldering iron, you could plug it in through a variable transformer.

Soldering components to a huge, thick PCB ground plane on my tesla coil kit, on the other hand... that was more of a challenge. I dialed it up to 750F (400C), and should have been using extra flux.

Actually, I was an idiot. Just search for "9V transformer" rather than "power adapter," that cuts through a lot of the noise. First hit on Amazon:

Jameco Reliapro ADU090150A2231 AC to AC Wall Adapter Transformer 9V @ 1500 mA Straight 2.5 mm Female Plug, Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B886CWS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AGJxzbCCEAR3S

There are more. Now just have to find the right tip and current rating.

ah thanks! ive just been looking those up and it looks like youre right (mine cuts the sine wave to reduce power). this there one anyone can recommend? something like this maybe?

You either need a crystal earpiece, or you need a high impedance to low impedance transformer. A 600:600 ohm transformer (isolation transformer) will not work here. You can also build a cheap audio amplifier or get a kit to do so.

That is my exact setup for my veg tent, other than I use a 400w MH. It was my first tent, but I wanted a continuous cycle, so I got a bigger tent for flowering.

The actual draw on that 700w model is 334w so that would probably be the one to go with, and probably won't need any supplemental lighting.

After buying the fan speed controller, while it does work, I found out that apparently it isn't the right kind for the type of motor the fans use. This is a little more expensive, but is supposed to be better on your fan motors.

I have a few of these, work well...

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Volmeter-3-5V-30V-Converter-Regulated/dp/B00DWX8PM2

The fan speed controller from the starter shopping list on the sidebar was a total piece of garbage. At first I thought the problem I was having was from my inline fan but after goin through 3... three goddamn fans it turns out that the controller was jacking things up. Started working fine but after a few weeks I could hear the fan that is in the basement all the way up on the 2nd floor.

Did some research n questioning that led me to buy a Variac Variable AC Power Transformer. It is pricey as a fill in for a fan speed controller but 8 months have passed with no issues.

This is on a 400watt setup. You may need a beefier transformer for a larger grow room. Be safe.

Yes I actually just ordered the fan and filter so I actually dont have it running yet but this fan will be cooling my hood. Im planning on setting it up like this. Ill have the filter hung up in the corner top of my tent, then Ill attach the fan to it, then the hood, then have ducting taking the exhaust outside of my tent. This fan has a low and high speed., 239/333 cfm I believe. You can also get one of these that can help you control your speed as well. Im planning on getting a 4in filter (thats all i need, its cheaper and lighter too) and getting a 4 to 6 in duct converter (just a few buck at home depot)

http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-300va-Output/dp/B006NGI8VS

Just a side note, the NES is 9V AC output, not VDC. Likely not the issue, just wanted to point it out.
This is what I use for my NES, meets all the original specs and isn't 30yr old. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B886CWS/

Electronix Express Variac Variable Transformer, 300 VAC Max, 0-130V Output, 3 Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NGI8VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rxDcAb0C6JSJD

I️ used this for my vortex 6in.

Aside from the recommendation to shuck the drives (I'd transfer data off them one at a time before doing so), you could just put a box fan in front of all of them and run it on low. Or, any smaller "desktop" fan you might find in a local store or online. Anything like that should provide sufficient airflow to keep them cool enough as long as it's right in front of them.

It would follow the KISS principle, and it would only cost ~$15-ish

Oh, and if you want to be able to smoothly dial the speed of a box fan down to any arbitrary point (if "low" is still louder/faster than you want, which has sometimes been the case for me in the past), then what you want is a variac transformer between the box fan and the outlet. A little pricey to pair with a cheap box fan, I know, but I use that with one and it's quite nice since the box fan moves air while being almost totally silent, with no coil whine. You could do the same with a smaller turbine-style fan if you wanted something smaller.

Don't forget a speed controller! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

this one's highly recommended and people say it helps reduce the humming on the inline fan compaerd to cheaper speed controllers.

I'm sure the apollo tents are fine, I've heard slightly better reviews for the vivosun tents. This one's about $12 more than yours i think. https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Horticulture-Hydroponic-Obeservation-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1478889774&sr=1-2&keywords=vivosun+48

The Mars 300 is chill for the price, you probably want to want to get a second one if you're going to have multiple plants in that tent. People say 1 mars 300 per plant should get you good results, almost pushing it with two full plants under a single mars 300.

Also if and when possible, try to invest in a good pH meter. everyone recommends bluelabs! https://www.amazon.com/Bluelab-Ultimate-Solution-Measuring-Temperature/dp/B008R7OWJS/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1478889906&sr=1-3&keywords=bluelabs+ph+pen

I didn't PH at first and my plants were dying on me... turns out my tap PH was above 7.0 ph. the PH pen saved grow!

Ig the initial investment will be worth in the future. I scoped this one but I'm not sure how many amps that td-100 pulls

This was in the recommended item list too

Inductive / non-invasive current sensor example: https://www.amazon.com/UEETEK-SCT-013-000-Non-Invasive-Current-Transformer/dp/B071L2K1GL

There are undoubtedly others. Again, maintenance group would likely remove it if they saw it.

> Each washing mode would have their own unique vibrations as well, so if I go down this route I'll have to take this into account?

Of course. The washer has multiple RPM's through the cycle while the RPM of the dryer motor is probably constant and could be picked out. Course, drying with different items will result in different frequency components as well - but you'd want to ignore those.

A spectrogram (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.intoorbit.spectrum) could be useful to figure out a starting point for frequency content. You're likely looking for something that is relatively constant, not the things that change.

> Will the signal analysis part come under DSP?

DSP's aren't required, but yes, were designed for signal analysis.

Would you recommend having an electrician come and do this capacitor switch?

Also, would this transformer not work for this? Thanks!

Jameco Reliapro ADU240100D5531 AC to AC Wall Adapter Transformer 24V @ 1000 mA Straight 2.1 mm Female Plug, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B8866E2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0apMBbT04EY0T

Does this work for the transformer? https://www.amazon.ca/Jameco-Reliapro-MGT2450P-Transformer-Terminal/dp/B01N3ALUBS/ref=sr_1_11?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1541018480&sr=8-11&keywords=24v+transformer&refinements=p_85%3A5690392011

congrats OP! I really enjoyed mine but just had too many amps and ended up selling it.

Grab a variac for some really great vintage chunk (very very different than the actual variac mode on the amp BTW)

This one I made using the variac mode on the amp but an actual variac will soften/loosen everything even more.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ea9KKuA_y0

I got this one

https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS

As Ad03 said, the wattage requirements of the heater are the unknown.

You need to drop down to 12v with probably ~72 watts @5 meters (those appear to be SMD5050 RGB).

If possible, look at a transformer that provides at least 1.5 the wattage you need (60w means 90, etc.) I use http://www.amazon.com/Meanwell-CLG-150-12-Waterproof-Supply-OlympianLED/dp/B00K7MVVDQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414167012&sr=1-6 to power some of my strips.

If you later decide to add more lights, you are less likely to IMMEDIATELY need a new transformer, the transformer will run cooler due to it not be near/at its max rated output and heat is one of the main things that kills electronics.

I see. Then you might consider looking for a variac like this. I only bought one once so other redditors may know better about brands.

You could wire up a third party transformer. I used these for my kitchen because i wanted a low profile. Cut the wire off the existing cable, keeping the Male end intact.


BE AWARE THIS IS 230V. You will need 120v.


Goobay 30612 LED Transformer, 24 V (DC)/20 W https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00I7XRCF8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WePKDbQPET2FP

something like this and this

dumb question, would the kill-a-watt plug into the variac with the behmor plugged into the kill-a-watt? or behmor to variac to kill-a-watt to wall socket? (the latter does not make sense to me, but I am not a smart man)

RadioShack is long gone here, their website doesn't seem to be much help either. Would this be a decent substitute? https://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-2A-Center-Tapped-12-0-12-Transformer-27844-TR/322928045791?hash=item4b3002eedf:g:Y2oAAOSw56NaKXC~ or https://www.amazon.com/Jameco-Valuepro-112512-R-Power-Transformer/dp/B00B8865AC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520859841&sr=8-3&keywords=24v+2a+transformer

If your grow space is small, get a variac controller and turn down the fan speed. I have mine at 30%-ish and it’s nearly silent.

Cheaper fan speed controllers are noisy. You get what you pay for.

if the sound is caused by the speed controller, switching to a variac will solve that issue

https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482124376&sr=8-1&keywords=variac

If you have stuff that requires 120V (American standard) and you go to a country with stuff thats up in the 200s (Europe, Asia, basically everywhere else you are likely to go with lots of electronics), then your 120V stuff might blow up. You need a step-down transformer like this: www.amazon.co.uk/240v-110v-Step-Down-Transformer/dp/B000NIYH94

Which is obviously massive and i doubt you'll want to carry that around. Far better to leave your 120V-only stuff at home. There's also a 50Hz or 60Hz frequency difference, but that usually doesn't have an effect unless you have stuff with AC motors in it (maybe your hair dryer?), in which case it will spin slightly slower in 50Hz countries.

Most any dimmer that works on "chopping" the AC cycle can cause buzzing. You'd have to go with a pretty fancy and more expensive one that could generate a cleaner signal if it bothers you.

Something like a variac would give you clean power with no possibility of buzzing.

http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-300va-Output/dp/B006NGI8VS

It would be pushing this one right to it's full rating, but this one should work.

Edit- Here's a 5 amp with a little more capacity to be safe:
http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-500va-Output/dp/B006NGI2RS/

The iPower fans seem to be junk. Here's the one I bought: a 6" Hydrofarm, 400CFM (actually an ActiveAir brand fan). Much better than the 175 the ipower 6" was pushing.

It's loud at full blast, and probably more than you need. This is good though, because you can get a speed controller to turn it down. The fan gets much quieter even at 75%, and I run mine at less than 50% to cool my small cab w/aircooled 400w HPS. You can get this speed controller if you don't mind a slightly annoying electric hum from your fan (I have this and sleep in the room with it at night), or you could get the more expensive variac controller that eliminates this hum (and probably helps your fan last longer too).

The centrifugal inline fans are much more powerful than the axial booster fans, and will force air through a carbon filter easily, so get one that is sized correctly for the fan. (heres mine, sized for that hydrofarm/activeair fan)

I keep a steady 78º-79ºF in the cabinet (2.5'x1.5'x4' grow space) with 75º-77ºF ambient room temps, and the air exhausted right back into the room (central air keeping the room at 76ºF helps).

You're going to need a step down transformer. This kind of thing https://smile.amazon.co.uk/240v-110v-Step-Down-Transformer/dp/B000NIYH94/ref=pd_sbs_147_4/260-0762073-8654467

The device is rated at 69W, so you really need at least 150VA rating transformer to allow for power factor issues and startup inrush current. This one is 300W/VA, which may be a little too big, but should be a safe bet. You could likely get away with a 200W/VA model.

I don't think the frequency difference 50Hz vs 60Hz is going to be a big problem in this case. Unless anyone knows differently.

So I recently went through this with an ecobee. Actually two ecobees and I wired in two zone valves. So I racked my brain when it came to this.

In your case your setup looks like it's like my basement. Just the red and white wires. Like others were saying, you need a common wire. Now you might be able to find this at your furnace/boiler depending on what type of heating you have. I only have a boiler and the red and white wires went to TT terminals on my aquastat on my boiler. So no C wire.

So for my basement I bought a 24VAC transformer. [This one.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N3ALUBS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)

I happened to have some wire that I was able to use but you can always buy some two conductor wire. Or you can just buy some thermostat wire and know you are using the right stuff. Connect one end of the wire to the two positive terminals on the transformer. Run the wire to the closest plug. You may need to pull the wire through the wall. Mine was on the unfinished side of my basement so I didn't have an issue running the wire.

Run the other end to your thermostat. One of the wires will go on the C terminal and the other will go on the Rc terminal. This would normally control your air conditioning if you had it.

Not sure if you need to change any settings in the actual thermostat but you should be good after that. Feel free to PM me with any questions.

If you want ultimate silence, do NOT get a fan controller - get a variac instead.

here and here