(Part 3) Best aquarium pumps & filters according to redditors

Unless you are using it on an air driven skimmer, you don't need that air pump. Or that bubble bar. Take them back and get your money back. They won't do hardly anything for oxygenation AND will give you "salt creep" everywhere from the bubbles popping and causing tiny sprays of saltwater. You will be much better off getting a good powerhead to increase circulation in the tank (VERY important for filtration....speaking of which, are you using live rock for filtration?)

I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:

Equipment

• 10 gallon tank with hood
  
• Broad Spectrum Light The one that came with the hood did not provide enough for the plants, you definitely need to invest in a broad spectrum bulb.
  
• CaribSea Flora Max Substrate I learned that shrimp prefer darker color substrate, this was worth the investment! My shrimp were so unhappy with cheap gravel, after switching to this substrate they are very active.
  
• Air pump
  
• Sponge filter
  
• Heater, maybe optional for you?
  
• Thermometer
  
• Gallon Bucket
  
• Siphon
  
• Seachem Prime Because it's a smaller tank, I ended up poking a pinhole sized hole in the seal so that I could use it as drops rather than pouring it in.
  
• [Seachem Stability] (https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-67101230-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499786377&sr=1-1&keywords=seachem+stability) Use this while you're cycling your tank, follow the instructions.
  
• API Test Kit
  
• Feeding Tray For the longest time I was really confused as to how the feeding tray worked, you can either get a tube or pre-soak the pellets and then drop them into the tray using long tweezers. This will help prevent ammonia/nitrite spikes.
  
• Long Tweezer Set
  
• Pellets Do also feed them blanched vegetables, make sure to peel the skin and buy organic to avoid chemicals/pesticides
  
• Timer Outlet Worth the investment! So you don't have to keep remembering to turn the light on and off.
  
  Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
  
  Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
  
  EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
  
  Setting up your tank
  
  
• 1. Find a stable top to place your aquarium on, keep in mind a well sunlit room will mean more plant/algae growth. Make sure it's sturdy and made for heavy objects, don't want to place it on a flimsy shelf or it might break! I keep mine on top a waterproof place mat because water drips are going to happen.
     
• 2. Rinse everything as a precaution! NEVER use dish soap!! If you must sanitize, vinegar is okay. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly. Also, NEVER use any kind of soap on your hands before handling things, just rinse well with water. Add your substrate, I lightly rinsed mine as there are beneficial bacteria living inside the substrate, pour it in. Make sure it's at least 2" of floor. Your water will be cloudy if you bought the substrate I listed, don't worry as it will settle after an hour and be clear.
     
• 3. Fill water half way, use a small plate and pour the water on top of that to avoid the substrate being pushed around. NEVER use hot water! If you're using tap water be sure to always use cold water. It's also recommended to purchase "RO water" (Reverse Osmosis Water) as some times your tap water can be too "hard". The best thing to do is use the test kit on tap water and go from there. If the kH/gH are very high 100+ you will need to use RO water. I like to place my plants and decor now while the tank is half full. Place in your thermometer, heater, sponge filter, etc. After that, continue to fill all the way to the top remembering to aim the stream on top the plate. Leave about a half to an inch from the top.
     
• 4. Take out plate, plug in filter, add in Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability. Please read the label for instructions and dosage according to your tank size. Since there is nothing inside you can add it after you've added the water to the tank. Moving forward, be sure to add the chemicals in the water bucket BEFORE pouring into the tank.
     
• 5. Turn on filter, wait for the water to settle and temperature to come up. They say shrimp can tolerate 52F to 86F but ideally room temperature water is best, this is where your water heater will come into play. Follow which ever cycling method you choose before purchasing your shrimp. This can take up to 6 weeks.
     
     After your tank has cycled
     
     
• 1. When adding your shrimp, there are many methods, the way I acclimate my shrimp is:
     
• 2. Put the shrimp in a 1 gallon tub using the water that they came in.
     
• 3. Drop in a tablespoon of the tank water, ONCE every 2 minutes.
     
• 4. After the water has reached 1/3 old water, 2/3rd new water, your shrimp are ready to be placed into your tank.
     
     Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
     
     Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
     
     
• kH: 60 / gH: 40 / pH: 7.0 / NO2: 0 / NO3: 20 / Ammonia: 0 / Temperature: 72F
  
  I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!

> My question is should I add a heater and small sponge filter or will the heat shock him now since he’s acclimated to room temp water for so long?

If you're worried you could get an adjustable heater and slowly increase the temperature of the water over the course of a week. It's super worth it to spend the couple extra bucks on an adjustable heater anyways.

For nano aquariums I personally love this heater: https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/heaters/products/copy-of-archaea-mini-aquarium-heater-25w-ultra-slim

It's really tiny and the heating adjustment is along the wire so you don't have to stick your hands in the tank.

As for the sponge filter, you should be able to just start using it. It might take the betta some getting used to. What sponge filter were you considering? You might consider one like this that has media for good bacteria growth: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSCB9GC/ref=psdc_2975472011_t5_B00KZJYC9G

> So another question is how long is their lifespan in a larger heater tank?

In ideal conditions like 5 or 6 years, but you can get up to 10 if you get lucky. They do fine in non-ideal environments and are extremely adaptable animals, it's just that they're more susceptible to diseases in colder waters. Never forget that your personal experiences are anecdotal evidence! Giving your fish an optimal environment will make both of you happier and isn't all that expensive if you spend the time to plan things out.

Hello! Welcome to the wonderful world of betta keeping! I'm a bit late to the game, since this was posted a bit ago, and you've already recieved advice, but I'd like to offer up some as well.

As everyone has already said, it's a pretty big misconception for nearly all new betta keepers that bettas can be kept in small spaces without a filter or heater. This stems from the belief that bettas live in mud puddles, when it couldn't be further from the truth.

Bettas come from vast rice paddies, that will usually never dip below knee height and stretches for miles on end. In the dry season, the paddies do tend have lower water levels, but certainly not puddles. It's a densely planted ecosystem with moving water, and natural filters, ie. The plants and bacteria.

Since you're new to fish keeping (I assume, but apologies if I am wrong) you may not be aware of something called the "Nitrogen Cycle." While it may be confusing at first, essentially the beneficial bacteria that breaks down your fishes waste into ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates. This process is crucial for your fishes health and well being, and is very important in the fish keeping world, but I'll get into the specifics a bit more later in this comment.

While the "recommended" amount of space for a betta is commonly agreed to be 2.5 gallons, which is perfectly fine as a bare minimum, I would honestly not recommend such a small space for a beginner. This is because of the nitrogen cycle. I would go with a 5 gallon tank, or even a 10 gallon, which will be much easier to cycle and keep your fish much safer during the process.

As for the nitrogen cycle itself, the process happens on it's own, but you have to be the one to keep your fish safe during it. Basically, ammonia and nitrites are deadly to your fish, and for the first few weeks, these will be all too common. What your aiming for is the much safer, but still harmful in large quantities, and manageable nitrites at the end of the cycle.

The nitrogen cycle starts with the addition of ammonia into a new tank. This can be done in 2 ways, fish in or fish out. What you'll be doing is a fish in cycle. Beneficial bacteria will begin to grow in your tank to break down waste and convert them into the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. The bacteria grow on surfaces, such as decor, gravel, filter, heater, glass, and is NOT present in the water itself. This means that for the next few weeks, you gotta stay on top of your water change game.

50% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 30% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 40% water changes about every 3-4 days for a week. 30% water changes about once or twice a week at the end of the cycle. I know it seems like a lot, but your fish will appreciate it.

For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle, you can search it on google, and a helpful video to watch on it is KGTropicals youtube video "everything you need to know about the nitrogen cycle." They break it down so well and have more visual representations, so I definitely recommend it.

Some things to consider getting for your fish as well, and things that will help your cycle a TON. I'll be adding links for visual representation, as well as trying to find you the best prices I can.

1. A good sized tank. I recommend a 5 or 10 gallon, much easier to start and keep a cycle in a bigger tank, but yes, 2.5 gallons is perfectly fine if you need it space wise. Be aware that even more water changes will be required to keep and maintain your tanks balance though.
   
   No links for this one since shipping a tank is a PAIN, but 5 and 10 gallon tanks can be bought from places like walmart, or local stores, or petsmart and Petco. I'm not sure if petco is still having their dollar per gallon sale, but a 10 gallon tank would only be $10.
   
   
2. A good water conditioner. I recommend something like Seachem Prime or Neutral Regulator. These will remove any heavy metals, chlorine, and chlorimine from your water, AND detoxify ammonia, and nitrites for 48 hours. This is SO GOOD for keeping your fish happy and healthy during the cycling process.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Safe-250-g-8-8-oz/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=seachem+prime&qid=1572116532&sr=8-8
   
   
3. A good filter. Personally, sponge filters are the way to go. Easy, cheap, reliable. Most local fish stores will have the sponge filter itself, but they can also be ordered on Amazon. The other things needed would be airline tubing, and an airpump. The tubing and air pump can be bought even at big retailers like walmart or meijer and replaced easily sin e they're so readily available.
   
   To clean a sponge filter is the easiest thing. While your changing tank water, out some in a clean bucket, take your sponge filter out, put in bucket of removed tank water, squeeze sponge filter, put back in tank. It also holds an awesome amount of the good beneficial bacteria and will not lose it when you clean it, unlike changing cartridges for a hang on back filter. They also aerate the water, bringing more oxygen into it, and don't create a high flow that will tire your betta.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Lefunpets-Biochemical-Sponge-Breeding-Aquarium/dp/B07VM8DN5Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1572116736&sr=8-7
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Pump-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bair%2Bpump&qid=1572116792&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airline+tubing&qid=1572116832&sr=8-3
   
   Hang on back filters can be used too though, I just don't find them as reliable.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=fish+tank+filter&qid=1572117085&sr=8-16
   
   Be sure to use a hang on back appropriate for your tank size. Bettas can tire easily of water flow is too high, and in some cases you may still need to baffle the filter.
   
   https://youtu.be/Hse7F3pvHqI
   
   
4. A good heater. Ideally, you want one you can adjust. Choose a heater for your tank size as well. Too small, won't keep water warm, too bug, could possibly cook your fish. That's never a good thing.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/HITOP-Aquarium-Reptiles-Thermometer-50W-Grey/dp/B07MJJJ4QQ/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDIw-ac_d_pm&keywords=fish+tank+heater&pd_rd_i=B07MJJJ4QQ&pd_rd_r=429ee2a8-3699-45aa-8e2b-e30164b14a2a&pd_rd_w=uFCrj&pd_rd_wg=125c4&pf_rd_p=808372f4-ce06-4458-88ef-16b605aa053a&pf_rd_r=T4YHMVDAP5EAQSAGXKJV&psc=1&qid=1572117367
   
   
5. A good food. The recommended I've seen so far is Northfin betta bits, or Fluval bug bites. You can also go the frozen food route, but it's a bit more expensive and involved.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=northfin+betta+bits&qid=1572117834&sprefix=northfin+&sr=8-2
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6577-Tropical-Granules-Medium/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=fluval+bug+bites&qid=1572117868&sprefix=fluval+bug&sr=8-4
   
   I use a mix of Aqueon, Northfin, and Fluval for some variety in my bettas diets along with frozen blood worms. They love them. I've heard Hikari betta food is good too.
   
   I don't recommend the generic foods sold at walmart. The pellets are too big, and the formula is low quality. It'll keep your betta alive, but just isn't great for them. Also, flake foods are a no no. It's just too messy, the fish doesn't eat all of it, and just isn't worth it.
   
   Lastly, you want to decide what kind of decor you will go with. If you go artificial, be sure to use soft, silk plants so your bettas fins do not get hurt.
   
   I recommend live plants always though, cause they help a lot in keeping your tank clean, produce oxygen, and will help absorb some of nitrates in the water. All around good stuff. Easy plants to take care of are anubias, java ferns, java moss, water wisteria, and floating plants like water lettuce.
   
   Bettas also need hiding places. This can be anything really. From the decor sold at walmart, natural looking rock caves, or even a terracotta pot. It doesn't really matter, as long as it doesn't have sharp points.
   
   The decor is up to you and what you like.
   
   Ummmmm, I can't think of anything else really. But if you need any help with anything, feel free to reach out! A lot of us are passionate about our quirky little dudes and gals and will be more than happy to help with anything you need advice on. And use the internet to your advantage too! There's TONS of good information and videos out there now, and you can find what you're looking for at the touch of a screen now.
   
   And also also, please do not feel bad about your start at betta keeping. We all start somewhere, and more than likely, we have all made this very same mistake. I know I did. The best thing to do now is to just work on upgrading your little dude and providing the best care you can for him. He'll start to heal up and REALLY shine.
   
   Apologies for extremely long message, but I hope this helps and wish you and your betta the best of luck!! ☺️

Sponge filters are the safest for bettas. I highly recommend this one on amazon :)

Been gathering info for a while now. Thanks to the fellow redditors for all the help and advice, especially K_draggon, LikeMaugal, Pllatium, Baboa, Tropheusdubosi, medym, and ispringer.

You guys gave me a lot of great advice that helped me put this together, along with information from nano-reef and ReefCentral

Tank is a 20 gal high spare tank I had. 50w heater, Light set up is Nova Extreme T5, pump is Hydor 425, Thermometer is Aqueon Coralife

The 2 larger rocks in the picture, was 1 large 11lb rock, smashed into 2 base pieces, picked up from Absolutely Fish in NJ

The rest of the rock was purchased from Gulf Live Rock

Tank was set up on saturday 2/25/12, which is the cloudy pictures. Tank finally settled around tuesday. Rock came in last night. Sadly a lot of the stuff didnt make the 2 day trip, but Im sure more stuff will appear soon.

First water change is scheduled tonight, as Ive noticed salinity has dropped to about 1.0 and Im told to keep it around 1.01-.02.

HOB filter is an AC70 which is getting El Fabs 'fuge mod in the next week or so.

Only signs of life so far are a sand trigger, about 4-5 bristle worms, which after researching more are "Fire bristle worms" And i read they are the worst kind and dangerous, So i will be plucking them out at night as I see them. And a few dozen peanut worms in the rocks. There was a small snail, and crab, that I found that didnt make the trip , which would of been nice to have.


I gave about 3 cups of sand to a friend, whos going to put it in his tank for a few weeks, and then give back to me, so I can get some of his copipods and other stuff he has living in his sand, and to help cycle my tank quicker.

Well, I'm still in the planning stages but I'm going to be using a sponge filter for my aquarium. I have some activated carbon at home I use for terrariums and I'll just place it in the clear exhaust tube so it can do its work after the main sponge. It removes tannins, some bad bacteria, and a lot of the smell. It's purely cosmetic, but the best method is just to keep changing water on a regular basis.

if you want to keep track of parameters get this. https://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI as for filtration i would just get a super small sponge filter to use in place of your airstone like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT1XXJW/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3171424582&pd_rd_wg=YSSS6&pf_rd_r=SP3Q161R7EV6JCMT1THS&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00DT1XXJW&pd_rd_w=rOp3K&pf_rd_i=mini+aquarium+sponge+filter&pd_rd_r=68WZ029GH257ZD7YAPA0&ie=UTF8&qid=1504099606&sr=3 you can tuck it back on the corner and the shrimp will absolutely love to feed on it. just make sure your tank is cycled before adding any shrimp to it.

I have discovered a great little sponge filter which allows you to put in ceramic beads to host good bacteria. Currently I have one in my 10 gallon with a HOB that I occasionally turn off.

https://www.amazon.com/Corner-Filter-Aquarium-Internal-XY-2008/dp/B00HSCB9GC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_199_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1RZTNWYQA649ZNXA71YV

The biggest factor that made me buy it was that most of the reviews were from betta owners with plenty of photos to back it up. So if you get that you will also need an air pump and the tubing. I use the recommended Tetra air pumps for 10G.

You will also really want a heater, betta fish prefer roughly 78f degrees. You will also want a substrate, I have noticed my betta fish have preferred sand over gravel. If you put some driftwood in there, it will lower your PH. Certain rocks will increase you water hardness. Lastly, get an API water test kit;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI?aaxitk=MfNb8FLf9eGj3GLSaNDlFA&pd_rd_i=B000255NCI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3525547702&pd_rd_wg=8L5hB&pf_rd_r=95NS5B0QQWVRY2D3W4V0&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_w=FvEoY&pf_rd_i=api+water+test+kit&pd_rd_r=fea43153-5be8-4228-a143-71acc8c606de&hsa_cr_id=2853308870301

Stay away from test strips.

I intend to cover it with more of the black walnut that's used above, but in a Japanese shoji lamp-style, so there will be a lamp at the bottom.

Basics of the setup:

• Grow area: 3" PVC pipes with 2" net cups spaced every few inches. The pipes have water running to each row and can be detached separately for cleaning.
  
• Overflow gutter: 4" PVC pipes cut lengthwise hold the 3" PVC pipes so that in the event of an overflow, the water goes into these gutters.
  
• Overflow + pipe routing: The overflow gutters are part of a frame that contains the supply lines (going up on the left) and the drainage lines (going down the right). Any overflow will go into the frame and down into the reservoir.
  
• Reservoir: 4" PVC pipes with enough capacity to hold 2x the water capacity of the 3" pipes up above. Not visible in the picture is a ball valve to drain the system for refilling. You can kinda see it in the bottom right of this IMAGE. I mounted it to the wall with heavy-duty brackets.
  
• Lights: These and these are mounted on the underside of the wooden covers.
  
• Pump: This
  
  The grow area is physically separate from the reservoir so I can detach and clean it. Some have critiqued the design for not being true NFT, saying that water remains in the system; and also because the channels are not square. So there are surely design improvements that can be made.
  
  The wood is black walnut that I coated in teak oil; and are slid onto brackets I made so that (in case of leakage) I can pull them right off without unscrewing anything.

In my opinion, sponge filters are the best shrimp tank filters. No possibility of sucking your shrimp in, and the shrimp can feed on the sponge.

I use one of these for my 5 gallon tank.

I wouldn't recommend anything smaller than 10 gallons, personally. I have a really hard time keeping the water parameters where I like them on my 10 gallon.

10 gallons is nice because you aren't limited to just one fish, which is what you would be limited to with anything smaller.

I would recommend a 10 gallon and letting your son pick out the decorations, and put in a few anubias or easy-care plants into the gravel.

As far as your heater goes, I would recommend an adjustable one rather than a single-temp. Additionally, for ease of accurate readings I would buy a digital thermometer.

For filtration, I really like the Marineland hang on the back filters, such as this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-70-Gallon/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414876612&sr=8-2&keywords=marineland+filter

And for lighting, it all depends on if you decide you want real plants or fake plants - fake plants, any old lighting will work. If you want real plants, I'd recommend the Finnex planted+. I bought a Finnex RayII for my 37gallon and it's too much light, so I'm not getting the growth I'd like since I don't have a CO2 system.

If you must insist on using those $10 pumps for water movement, why not just get one of these? It's slightly bigger, but it has mechanical filtration which is significantly better than just moving the water around.

Note, I own the same pumps in your video and I also own the Elite Mini and it's not much bigger. I can say from experience that it's worth it to have a power filter running.

This is the [filter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VFF8U4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) its really easy to use and not that expensive. And for my input and outputs i am using these glass lilys

The top review on Amazon for your filter says this:
> [This filter works great when setup properly. Most people set them up wrong. All filter pads must go on the bottom tray. Coarse, medium and fine filter pads.(none on top) This only comes with 3 Medium pads in each tray. And then your bio media in the middle or top. (Bio media not included) I just fill the top 2 with bio media.]
(http://www.amazon.com/4-Stage-External-Canister-Sterilizer-Aquarium/dp/B00896IILA#customerReviews)

So make sure you are setting it up properly and buy a biological filter right away.

Go for a tiny canister filter and hide it under the tank! All you will see are a small intake and spray bar/outflow tube. This is a good one, SunSun HW-602B 106 GPH 3-Stage External Canister Filter. For a SUPER clean look get a set of glass "lily pipes" for the intake/outflow. Don't be intimidated by a canister filter they really work great and are easy to maintain, I only rinse out my filter material every 3 months on my Fluval 406 on my 40gal.

You’re gonna want to get a filter ASAP because his troubles are highly likely due to water quality - impossible to know without parameters. Yeah petsmart will totally test your water for you ! It’s a great deal since I know test kits are pricey !! :)

I’d recommend a sponge filter like this one .

I’d recommend feeding him some daphnia if he still seems to have an appetite and that should hopefully help him poo. The bloat might be a combination with his weak immune system from the rot and velvet, so hopefully getting him warmer and cleaner water will help.

He still looks to have some good weight on him and I’ve seen way sicker fish come back from way worse, so your guy should bounce back.

If you don’t use seachem Prime already I highly highly recommend getting some ! It’ll help neutralize the ammonia left after a water change.

I hope he gets better soon !!! Don’t hesitate if you have any more questions everyone on her is a wonderful help :)

I have been researching the Walstad method for the last few weeks and I can tell you 4 facts about this method and why it may not work with your setup:
1 - Walstad tanks NEED to be HEAVILY planted from the very beginning with SPECIFIC fast growing plant species and SPECIFIC nutrient rich soil (which is where all the bacteria live AKA the filter) in order to achieve the balancing act between the soil, nutrients, bacteria, plants, and fish waste.
2 - Goldfish will DEVOUR and uproot 90% of the aquatic plants needed for the Walstad method. Goldfish are badass and the other 10% of plants that they don't destroy will not be sufficient to plant or balance a Walstad tank.
3 - Goldfish produce much more ammonia and waste than other fish, making them incompatible with the Walstad Method. Even if they chilled out on the plant apocalypse, the waste would throw the tank out of balance by adding more waste than the plants and bacteria can handle. That is why Ms Walstad recommends low bio load fish for her method, AND why goldfish REQUIRE a filter.

My advice? If your on a budget, I would buy a sponge filter and air pump to go with it. They are dirty cheap and they add oxygen to the water at the same time as filtration. 2in1. Plants in your tank are nice, but they won't keep up with the goldfish waste.

Yea I don't like bowls for fish; the shape of bowls can distort a fish's vision, and definitely the spherical/rounded shape makes it more difficult to add a proper filter or heater. A 3.5g bowl like what you have currently might be better as a shrimp tank (shrimp are funny lil guys) and you can put one of these small singular sponge filters https://www.amazon.com/Aquatop-Aquatic-Supplies-Aquarium-CAF-10/dp/B00HYEO8H6 for it as a shrimp tank, but this subreddit really recommends 5+ gallons with proper filter and heater for a betta habitat that a betta can thrive in. I used to keep my bettas in the Petsmart 3.5g TopFin Enchant (starter tank), but I have recently switched to the 5.5g TopFin Essentials tank kit and my bettas are MUCH happier and exploring around the larger tanks with a lot more gusto & liveliness than they had in the previous 3.5g tanks. Also 3.5g I had to do partial water changes twice per week, but now with 5.5g I just do 1 PWC per week. Honestly never going back to tanks below 5g, and recommend you try a 5+ gallon tank too if you truly want to give your future betta a great quality of life.

Also please consider FISHLESS cycling the new larger tank beforehand. http://injaf.org/articles-guides/beginners-guides/the-nitrogen-cycle-and-the-fishless-cycle-getting-your-aquarium-ready-for-fish/

and for more about betta care, our community has many great articles: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/index

I'll list off the things you need in order of importance

First is bigger tank! Your bowl isn't cycled anyway so more water volume can only help. I have the same tank that you linked and I like it but I don't really like using filter cartridges so I just changed it out for this stuff

Next, heater. Warm water has been in my experience the biggest difference between a healthy and unhealthy betta. You want one that has an internal thermostat and you can manually set the temp to a number. You'll want a thermometer to go along with it

Filter is important but not as important as heater imo. You'll still need it if you don't want to be doing multiple weekly water changes to keep the quality perfect

Finally are the comfort items: plants, caves etc. If you want plants decide how into it you want to get. Regular gravel would be fine with some plants but if you really want to go for it get something like ecocomplete or fluorite that's designed for plants. I'd recommend at least a couple live plants (Anubias and crypts are easy) because they go crazy for them.

Everything else is mostly to make things easier for you or for decoration.

When you have it set up you'll want to do weekly 20% water changes. A test kit will help you make sure that you're on the right track. If you have any ammonia: water change. If you have any nitrite: water change. If nitrate gets to 20: water change.

Try one of these. Pretty cheap and helped me out a ton. This worked on my 75g.

Here’s a solutions- go to a local hardware store or tractor supply or landscape store and try to find an all purpose tub, storage tote, or practically any large container, somewhere around 30-50 gallons. Most of these tubs are fish safe, and are very cheap. For filtration use a large sponge filter and pump which are a very cheap and a effective alternative to normal filters. I wouldn’t worry about heat at the moment as this is meant to be temporary, and goldfish can handle it briefly. I wouldn’t but any decorations or substrate in the tub, just leave it bare. This setup is actually widely used in the goldfish hobby, so it’s a great choice.
Here’s the supplies list on amazon for your convenience, but keep in mind you could also go and look for these products cheaper elsewhere and don’t have to be the exact ones

Sponge filter-
Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D0G6AbC8B1HRS

Pump-
VicTsing 80 GPH (300L/H, 4W) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 5.9ft (1.8M) Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J2G6Ab01249QW

Air tube-
Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l3G6AbXFY7BEV

Plastic Tub-
Rubbermaid Commercial FG424300BLA Structural Foam Stock Tank, 50 Gallon Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPBLAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U5G6Ab4CHSP90

Cycling biology-
Fluval Biological Enhancer for Aquarium, 8.4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIZ8Y0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26G6AbAR5QBRK

I use something similar with great success.

Use this pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LHC8UX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

along with an old 5 gallong igloo cooler like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Igloo-5-Gallon-Plastic-Beverage-Cooler/999949202

​

I pre-chill around 5 gallons of water the night before in my fermentation chamber freezer down to as cold as i can get it, so that the water is ice cold.

When it comes time to chill the wort, i run the ice cold water first but rather than re-circulating right away i dump the initial really hot water out into another bucket until i have about a gallon to a gallon and a half left in the igloo cooler.

i then add start recirculating the warm water into the cooler and add a bag of ice.

Gets me down to ale pitch temperatures within 15 mins and i only use 5 gallons of water plus a bag of ice to chill around 5.5-6 gallons of wort. If brewing a lager i need to use 2 bags of ice to get down to about 50F.

You can get a SunSun for 50$ USD off amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MGX7JXA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468735993&sr=8-2&keywords=sunsun probably the cheapest and most cost efficient in the 50$ range I don't know of anymore filters that are cheaper and good for a 20 long.

Yup! I use one that suction cups onto the side of the tank to save room. You can put a little airline valve on it so when you've got the hob running, it doesnt create too much surface disturbance.

I use a larger, double version of this one: http://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-XY-2830-Aquarium-Bio-Sponge-Filter/dp/B00KZJYC9G/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_20?ie=UTF8&refRID=02J8CZM158C7AWH76AW0 -- you'll just need some airline tubing to connect it.

Hmm odd that the water fizzed up. Did you rinse out the tank and rinse off the carbon and decorations before putting them in? The fact that you can smell chlorine is probably a good indicator you are best of to switch to a different water conditioner. (I like Seachem Prime.) Betta's like a low flow filter so just keep an eye on the filter or even switch to a sponge filter, or filter with a sponge over the intake, etc. Remeber to test your tap water too! I will link some products I have used or similar to those I have used in the past and had success with. (It may be a good idea to compare prices at your LFS store to Amazon, as I know my local Petsmart/Petco charges a fortune for a lot of aquarium items without much selection.)

API Freshwater Test Kit (Amazon wow $19.99 right now!) or at your LFS -Don't buy the test strips.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NCI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

SeaChem Prime ($4-$13 depending on size from Amazon or at your LFS. I swear by Prime.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002568S6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

A thermometer is a good idea to make sure your heater does not create a major issue. I do not use this exact one but figured I would add it to the list with a link ($2)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQITK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here I will just attach a link for a sponge filter I use in a 10 gallon (~$12). You will need some airline hosing and an air pump (tetra air pump works) if you get it, though I think it may be a little big for a 4 gallon. Also, an aquaclear is by far my favorite HOB filter if you go that route. Hopefully, your filter will workout!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXRDZPO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A316L92SV4DH0Y&psc=1
Tetra Air pump (~$7)
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506349229&sr=1-1&keywords=tetra%2Bair%2Bpump&th=1
Aquaclear 20 (110V ~$25): This may be a little big for your 4 gallon, not sure as I have the Aquaclear 50 on my 30 gallon but I will add it along just in case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Airline Tubing (a few dollars, great to have)

Household Ammonia without surfactant (to do your fishless cycle) see link http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm

If you decide to go with silk aquarium plants, they have few fun options online. I would also suggest really plants as they will help reduce nitrates in the future. Some good low-tech plants would be anubias, or java fern (and some others). These can be tied to a rock or driftwood as don't need to be placed in the gravel/sand/soil itself. (A small clip-on LED for an aquarium should work
if you go this route.)
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/plantsetc

I would provide food options, but r/bettafish has done a great job!
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/food

Here are a few they have mentioned:

Ocean Nutrition Atison's Betta Food (~12)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/huc/view.html?ie=UTF8&newItems=C38WET63RPACA8%2C1

New Life Spectrum Betta Formula (~$10)
https://www.amazon.com/New-Life-Spectrum-Formula-Semi-Float/dp/B0038JTL1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506350883&sr=1-1&keywords=New+Life+Spectrum+Betta+Pellets

Hikari Betta Bio-Gold (~$13)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013EXTU7S/ref=twister_B00ZJZMXIS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You should be able to find frozen daphnia, and frozen brine shrimp at Petco/Petsmart, and live brine shrimp at your LFS.

Will add on later! Happy cycling and keep us posted!

Seems a bit overstocked IMO

I’d recommend skipping the barbs as they can be a bit nippy especially when overcrowded or in a community tank, from experience. In a tank that small, the loaches will be your main fish so I’d just go with the schools and tetras and rasboras, and you could definitely get away with bigger schools as long as you add them slowly.

The 2 most important factors when pushing stocking levels is biological filtration and surface agitation. If you add a sponge filter like this or this, you’ll be in much better shape. Since you didn’t mention compressed CO2, your fish and plants will thank you.

That's pretty much the definition of a well pump. About $100 bucks for the cheapest one, which should serve you fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Happybuy-Submersible-0-5HP-Stainless-Industrial/dp/B07JV8B3V2/

It's literally made to be dropped down a well and operate while completely submerged. That tank won't even come close to straining the pump. Even the cheap ones can lift 150 feet.

Heck, if you don't really need pressure or a fast flow, you could even just use a submersible fountain pump.

https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponics/dp/B01LHC8UX8/

That one is $20 and will lift 7 feet, which looks like it might even be enough for your needs.

Edit: You could also get a "transfer pump" for about $50

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Transfer-Utility-Impeller-Gasket/dp/B07R7V1HJW/

It has the advantage that you can actually install it inside the cabin. The disadvantage is that it needs to be primed (filled with water) before it works, and if the hose between the transfer pump and the water source gets air in it, you need to prime it again. So you'll need to install a one-way valve after the pump to ensure water can't drain out. It's also limited to a rise of a maximum of about 33 feet, possibly less depending on the strength of the pump. That's the limit for raising water by pulling it from the top (rather than pushing from the bottom, like submersible pumps do). But, again, that doesn't look like it will be much of a limitation for this specific application.

Sounds like you have a liebig condenser. Shotgun condensers have multiple internal tubes, to shorten the condenser length while keeping more surface area.

In my experience (I've used all 3), the liebig sounds like the best option... mostly because you already have it, but also because my liebigs work better than a worm with a flakestand.

Get a quieter (aquarium) pump and keep the water flowing constantly. When your condenser heats up and cools down repeatedly you will upset the balance of the system and run less efficiently. Your outer tube on the liebig is oversized, so you'll only need very little cooling water flow.

Something like this should be plenty...

https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponics/dp/B01LHC8UX8

Have disposable income. :) I had gotten some overtime hours at work, so I went ahead and took the plunge back into saltwater (pun intended).

These were the steps I took so far. I'm not sure if I did it right or not, but I've been able to keep things alive without any die-off, so I've got that going for me. In total, I've spent probably around $300 for the whole setup. Couldn't be happier!

Step 1: Acquire aquarium. This one is the Aqueon Cue 5 gallon, which has a stock led light of whites and blues with "moonlight" option. Put your aquarium on a sturdy, level surface away from sunlight (or in indirect sunlight if you must).

Step 2: Add pump for flow. I'm using the 80 GPH Uniclife found [here on Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZW6OHHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Step 3: Mix saltwater. I use distilled water from the store and Kent Marine Reef Salt Mix. It dissolves so quickly! I seriously use a white 5 gallon bucket and a spatula to mix it. I keep my salinity at 1.024.

Step 4: Let the water come to room temp. Measure salinity with a hydrometer (like the Instant Ocean brand). Be sure to rinse it off with fresh water every time you use it.

Step 5 (optional): Add barely 1/2 inch of live sand. I used CaribSea, 5 lb bag. Yes, you will have LOTS left over. Use it for craft projects!

Step 6: Add live rock. Not just any old live rock, I'm talking about the stuff that's been at your lfs for freakin' ever in the dark, unloved corner. This is more established rock and will help your cycle move along. Currently I have about 3.5 lbs in there.

Step 7: Put some live rock where filter floss will go and skip out on filter floss or carbon. Seriously, somehow this works.

Step 8: Add water. Wait several hours for your ensuing sand storm to die down. You're welcome to leave your extra pump off for this part. I did use some filter floss in the filter to catch loose detrius, but once the water was clear, I threw it out. Once your water is clear, turn the pump back on. By now you should have a thermometer in there, too. My tank stays at 73-74F most days.

Step 9: Make a tiny mark with a permanent marker where your "full" water line is. Every day, top off your tank with fresh distilled water up to that line. That way you can stay ahead of evaporation and keep your tank water at a stable salinity.

Step 10: Wait about 2-3 weeks. Watch your rock spring to life! I had all kinds of fun critters crawling on mine.

Step 11: Take a water sample to your lfs or pet store to be tested (Petco does it for free, which is where I went). If your parameters are good, move on to the next step. If not, wait another week. If it's still no good, consult reddit or start over.

Step 12: Add your cleanup crew! This can be an assortment of hermits, different types of snails and so forth. I've listed my current stock in another comment in this thread. My only complaint would be to have more things that eat more hair algae.

Step 13: Wait another 3 weeks. Ensure your livestock is still alive.

Step 14: By now you may notice brown algae clinging to your glass and rockwork. It's the ugly phase, but it'll pass. Scrub lightly on the glass to get rid of the algae. I use a piece of filter floss (but I'll be upgrading to a magnet cleaner today).

Step 15: First water change! Follow the water mixing procedures from above. Then, drain out 90% of the water from your tank and refll it back to your "full" line with the new fresh water.

Step 16: Wait a few days, then get your water tested again. If it's all good...

Step 17: Add corals. This setup doesn't really allow for hard-to-keep corals (unless I upgraded the light...), so try to go for easy, low-light ones that aren't particularly aggressive. You can get them from your lfs, from frag trading groups or online at larger retailers.

Step 18: Wait about a month. By now, you'll see some die off and some growth on your corals. That's great!!

Step 19: Stay on top of your monthly water changes. Remember: the more livestock you add, the less time you'll be able to get away with between water changes.

So far, that's what I've got. I want to add some chaeto or other saltwater plants to liven up the space some more. Might get a yellow clown goby or more frags, then I think I'll call it all good.

I change my water once a month and scrub my glass when the algae starts to be too much. The tank is constantly growing and changing. I'm new to the hobby but I'll be happy to answer any questions you have!

i did a lot of research before hand, cause i wanted a fish. so i need a 80 gal/hr filter, some gravel, i posted here because the directions for cycling made no sense to me, i think you are supposed to change like 25% of the water each day? and 19 gallon tank seems a little weird, doesnt it?

will this work?

You can buy a small submersible pump or filter (less than 100 gph) on amazon for less than $10.

something like this or this sunsun one is interesting

I had to change the sponge filter to a smaller one that would fit in current filter repository, this one appears to be entirely plastic: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZJYC9G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7SIQ2Y2T11UM

My tank currently has frogbit, and duckweed... the growth is crazy on it but keeps the water very clean. Also have moss(s) and some anubas in this tank so it's pretty heavily planted.

The petri dish is a great tip, guessing glass ones are better than plastic so they sink? Any recommendations on places to pick a cheap/decent one from? Would think a nice expensive scientific dish would be a waste of money, and could be better spent on other items.

I have an API master test kit, but it doesnt have GH/KH testing capabilities. thinking i'll get cheap test strips to test my water from the faucet/current levels to know what i need to do. or are the electronic readers better?

Plenty of Oak trees near me, and i'll be sure to use the oak leaves as needed. Love using free things when i can lol. My fiance stocks our house with what seems to be great shrimp food as well, so that'll help the wallet.

I've kept Bettas on a budget before- there are some things that you really do need, and some things you can do ugly and cheap. The trouble is that you're starting with two and have limited space, a bad combination. I'd suggest you really try hard to rehome at least one, but proceeding on the idea that you're absolutely determined to keep both, I'll lay out the least expensive way to get things done in my experience.

To pick up now:

-Dechlorinater/water conditioner: In your grandma's days, there were fewer additives in water than they are now, and not all of them gas off when left to sit out. If you absolutely can't afford even a tiny container of prime, which can really help in small tank situations because it temporarily neutralizes ammonia- then pick up a cheaper water treatment. Most pet stores carry generic ones, or API is $4 and change on amazon. Can't emphasize enough how much better prime would be though. The smallest bottle should last you for a couple months, so don't worry too much about volume.

-If you can do it, Petco's dollar/gallon sale is the best value you're likely to get on a 10G, as mentioned. Failing that, check your local thrift stores. I think a 10G would be ideal for you if you can make it work- it'll be cheapest and the least amount of maintenance, if you use dividers. Here's a way to make mesh dividers for it yourself from things you can pick up at any craft store, for a couple bucks total (you can also make lids out of the same material). I've made these before and as long as you measure them right, they work fine. If you absolutely can't get or fit a 10g, you bare minimum need about 3g per betta in separate containers or you'll be courting ammonia burns and finrot super quickly. Bowls aren't ideal, but if you're doing a temporary setup they may be easier to find. Be creative if you have to- you want something with horizontal swimming space, rather than vertical (avoid anything taller than it is long), but there are all kinds of odd glass vessels at your average salvation army. A ~3.5 gallon spherical bowl is going to be 12" in diameter. Anything with flat sides, measure and calculate the rough volume in cubic inches, then convert to gallons. Whatever you get, clean it thoroughly. If you use bleach, let it sit out in the sun for a few hours before filling it with water.

-Hides: Cheapest part. In college I had a Betta setup with a half-buried coffee mug and some silk plants from Michaels in it. Grab a couple mugs at the thrift store or throw in your least favorites. You want ceramic not plastic or metal, minimal or no paint if possible. Bury them halfway in the substrate. Craft store silk plants are inexpensive and are fine in a pinch, just boil them first. You want at least some that reach up to the top of the tank, to give them cover at all levels.

-Substrate: Whatever's cheapest is fine. A 5lb bag of imaginarium sand will run you $5 or so at petsmart. If you have a local fish store, they may sell gravel or sand in bulk for cents to the pound, so you could call around and ask. Whatever you use give it a quick rinse before adding it.

-Here's a $10 adjustable amazon heater. If you're doing two 5 gallons, get two 25 watts. A 10 gallon divided, get the 50 watt. A heater goes a long long way to keeping your fish healthy- once you need to start buying medicine your budget is blown. You won't see many non-adjustable ones for much less than this, and they're less reliable since they heat at a constant rate regardless of water temp. Get a cheap glass thermometer with it, they're in any big-box pet store.

To pick up soon:

-Filters and pumps: Sponge filters are the way to go in small betta setups for sure, and they are extremely cheap online. Here's one for $2 for a 10G; here's the one I use in my 7G for $4. Make sure to carefully read the guide on cycling before you put a filter in, because things will get less stable before they get more stable, which is why in your situation I'd be vigilant about water changes (see the caresheet for frequency) and put off the filter til you can afford an API test kit. Because things can spike so so fast, it's really not advisable to run through a fish-in cycle blind in any small tank. You'll pair it with an air pump, this one's $7.

-API master test kit: This is the most expensive thing on the list, which is the only reason it's under later. API also makes test strips, but they're $10 for a pack of 25, wheras the master test kit has far far more uses in it for $20 and is much more accurate. Knowing your water parameters is good any day, but essential once you introduce any kind of filter.

Altogether I think you could get this kind of absolute barebones setup done for around $30 up front and $30 later if you play your cards right, less if you find a home for one fish. It'll still require elbow grease to put together, though.

We actually used to have problems with the nitrate level a few months ago but we got a better filter and haven't had a problem since. Between that and consistent water changes around every week we haven't had a single problem with water levels. This is the filter we use Marineland Penguin Power Filter, 50 to 70-Gallon, 350 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jqNfAbA43PT8Z

This Beauty, I had done ALOT of research to find a solid little filter that i could keep the water circulated in and just keep larger debris out of the water. I would read up on some of the modifications needed to throttle the flow (basically add more sponges to the baskets or bio media) I love it. for this jar its perfect. I'm Actually thinking about ordering a couple more to have on hand in case i want to have couple jars going at once. EDIT: Forgot to mention went with this one because its fully submersible and doesn't rely on an Air pump. I can keep the lid closed on my jar.

I use this DIY diffuser, I have found that it is extremely efficient, more so than my old ceramic diffuser. It also only costs about 16 dollars.This forum post describes the process of making one. You can find the filter on amazon here

For small display tanks, my favorite is to use a small canister filter.

I personally have a Zoomed 511 but there are starting to be more and more options on the market:

• Finnex PX-360
  
  
• Zoomed 501 or 511 (also sold as Turtle Clean)
  
  
• TOM Aquarium Rapids Mini Canister
  
  Even the smaller Eheim Classics (I think the 2211 or the 2213) would work.
  
  For your water, make sure you use something to make it aquarium safe before adding it into your tank. My favorite is Seachem Prime, and the general consensus is that it's the best there is.
  
  Your little RCS should breed as long as you give them stable water conditions. The babies are also extremely small. One day you'll look over and notice that you have tons of shrimp out of nowhere. It's also a possibility that you have all males or all females (it happens!).
  
  As far as water changes, with that low of a bioload a good schedule would be to change something like 2 gallons once every two weeks.
  
  

From his previous posts:

alright!

So after many months of planning and figuring out what i waned to do, I finally decide to bite the bullet and get into the planted tank hobby (I kept ranchus before this).

If you guys have any tips or anything advice that would help me out much appreciation!

For right now I am waiting for the drawf hairgrass carpet to grow out, and my piece of wood to become waterlogged so it doesn't float.
I tied down java moss so the wood looks like a tree.

Dont judge me, I know its hella cliche, but i think it would look good.

I am replacing the HOB with a canister filther (Finnex px-360) and using lily glass pipes for my intake and output, so i can achieve that more minimalistic vibe.

For those wondering my CO2 set up, I am using [this] (https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/archaea-co2-regulator-pro-single-gauge-fits-cga-320), so far its pretty good. It has the adapter so i can connect to a 5lb paint ball co2 canister. I have it connected to a timer, so its pretty hands free system.

The only thing I want to change is my CO2 diffuser, its good for its price point(only 10.99). But I feel like if I spend a little more I could get something better.

If you guys want links to what I have bought:

CO2 regulator

Glass lily pipes (still havent arrived so I dont know if they are good, I have heard mixed reviews about it)

CO2 Indicator

Canister filter


Tank

And all the plants i got from aqua forrest in SF

It's typically called a wave maker or circulation pump. This is the one in my video. I went through a few different brands before this one, and in comparison it's been really reliable. Helps keep water flowing and debris off the surface of the substrate.

Best advice is to take your time and buy what will make you happy. You'll only spend more money in the long run if you compromise now. Luckily, not everything needs bought at once. Tank, filter, and heater are necessary purchases now. Lighting and decor can be figured out more slowly.

I can recommend what I'd get in your position.

If you're going to buy a kit, this is a good one. Personally, I like this heater, but they do sell a cheaper version. So, about $100 for the tank, heater, filter, and light.

If you want to buy the parts separately, you can get a 10 gallon tank for $10-$15 or cheaper checking craigslist. You'll also need some kind of lid to cover the tank. You can buy glass ones or some people get a piece of glass or acrylic cut to cover it. Tank + lid: $25-$30

Aquaclears are my favorite filters for my tanks, but you could use a sponge filter. You'd need an air pump for the sponge one. So, $20-$25 for a filter.

Real plants are nice, but not necessary. You can do fine with fake ones, just make sure the edges aren't sharp. If you do want plants, the Spec V light should be plenty for low light plants. If you want to buy the light separately, this or this would be fine. I've had a Nicrew one on my larger tank before and it's enough for low light plants.

Or you could just get a clamp on lamp from the store and a daylight bulb. That whole set up would be about $10.

Until you get a new set up, I would recommend water changes at least once a day, if not more. I would also strongly recommend buying a water testing kit.

My only guess would be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rhinox-Nano-CO2-Diffuser-Pressurized/dp/B0058XWDFO/

That's about 1 x 2 inches. It's your basic diffuser - you'll get lots of micro bubbles, it's not the most efficient, but it should work.

I have a DIY I built from googling for my 15g. It is a constant pain in the ass to get the mixtures right for given surface agitation and bioload. And then every time you want to make a change, you have to wait a day for the mixture to restart. And if you are using CO2 to lower pH, this causes wild pH swings. And, you can't turn it off at night.

Save yourself pain and buy a real setup:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DTNWF2?pc_redir=1407847266&robot_redir=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058XWDFO/ref=pd_aw_sims_5?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0085282UK/ref=pd_aw_sims_2?pi=SY115&simLd=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008UCOFJW/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SY115&simLd=1

$175 with prime.

EDIT: Jesus I totally forgot about the leaks. Constant leaks in the DIY system. I had several seals give after several weeks of use. So you are never safe. I think I currently have zip ties holding my overflow lines together.

I would recommend just going ahead and getting a regulator for the CO2. I tried DIY for a few months and it was always a pain and messy.. not to mention it looked gaudy.

Grab a Aquatek regulator (mini or normal) and a paintball tank from your local sporting goods store (Dick's or Academy). I personally don't know if you'd need one or two regulators and tanks since its a 20 long. I've only dealt with 10g and lower using CO2.

Anyways that's my take, I'm no expert and I don't know your budget but that should be less than $100 a tank / regulator.

As for the other stuff, I don't know sorry :(.

Edit: For diffusion methods get one of these bad boys: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058XWDFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

From Amazon

For the far side, a few options:

1. tiny power filter https://www.amazon.com/Deep-Blue-Professional-ADB88700-Aquarium/dp/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467385633&sr=8-1&keywords=deep+blue+professional+filter (lfs guy has these on his mini shrimp tanks)
   
   
2. sponge filter: https://www.amazon.com/Bacto-surge-Foam-Filter-Large/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467385683&sr=8-2&keywords=sponge+filter
   
   
3. another sponge filter option: https://www.amazon.com/XinYou-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-XY-2821/dp/B009V3UGDS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1467385683&sr=8-8&keywords=sponge+filter
   
   
4. the wildcard (interesting product, no experience with it) https://www.amazon.com/Hydrodynamic-Perfecto-Marineland-Aquarium-Filtration/dp/B01BI02JMC/ref=lp_13691185011_1_2?srs=13691185011&ie=UTF8&qid=1467385743&sr=8-2
   
   
   ---
   
   for the middle one: https://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Stone-Sponge-Filter/dp/B008FLWY5U/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1467385522&sr=8-29&keywords=sponge+filter+jardin
   
   should be more than enough, get the 99c control valves or a 'hub' to dial in the airflow to each. (cheapest in box stores or walmart)

Years ago one of the first tanks I had was a 5.5 setup with some ghost shrimp and my Betta. For quite a while figured the filter flow problem was just something I had to live with. Then I spent some time online and took another crack at the tank. The problems you are having can be solved!

Since money is an issue, grab an empty water or soda bottle. Rinse it off very well, cut off the ends, and cut a slit down the side. You can wrap this under the "waterfall" of your filter and around the top outside of the tank. This diverts the water out the sides and will make your fish happier. Some tape might need to be added to the top to keep it from popping off randomly, but otherwise its about as cheap a fix as I can come up with for your filter right now. This photo is not mine, but it does give you something to look at which might make more sense than my description!

The only other solution I have is going with a super cheap canister filter from Amazon. This one is only $32 and would work great on your tank.

If you need to clean the tank before getting a gravel vacuum you could always grab a cheap turkey baster and use it to suck up the crud you can see on the surface.

Last suggestions I have without replacing the filter is to pull out whatever charcoal is in your filter and maybe replace that with a pot scrubber. Then grab a bottle of Tetra Safe Start and dump that into your tank. It will look like a cloudy mess, but this is fine and it will clear up soon. This will jump-start your cycle since you are starting fresh.

Oh! This is the last thing. Make sure to grab a bottle of water conditioner before you do anything else. Do this right now if you haven't already. Get your new buddy some treated water and relax! Later you can use an old milk jug or water jug to keep a gallon of pre-treated water around to top off the tank after evaporation as well as for water changes.

Despite all the extensive misconceptions around, Bettas need at least a 2.5 gallon, filtered, and heated tank. Preferable a 5 gallon or more, larger set ups are actually easier to maintain! In small tanks like bowls or "shoebox sized tanks," ammonia builds up too quickly and can harm, and eventually kill your fish. Fish create ammonia when they breathe and poo, and it is toxic to them. I recommend you get at least a 5 gallon tank, a fully submersible heater, and a sponge filter. Sponge filters are cheap and great for biological filtration! To combat ammonia "nitryfying" bacteria will colonize on your filter media and "eat" the icky ammonia turning it nitrites, and then less harmful nitrites! Here's a great blog on fish keeping that should supply you any more information you need!

edit: also make sure you dechlorinate your water and feed your fish high quality pellets, i prefer omega one betta buffet pellets, also male and female bettas should not be kept together unless you have very precise exquisite conditions and aim to breed them

It probably needs a few more, but I want to add the new filter in before I do so. It's going to be a corner sponge (air?) filter. Oh wait, I can just post this.

something like this:
pump
sponge
air tube

I use a sponge filter in my 5 gal. Seems to be the smallest one on the market and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYEO8H6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wHAqDbP9736K4

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HYEO8H6/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523830934&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=aquatop+cf+10

It's this one! You might be able to get it a bit cheaper at your LFS though.

Setup

Item| Description
---|---
Tank | 55 Gallon
Filter|[Marineland Penguin 350] (http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-70-Gallon/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1406908824&sr=1-1&keywords=bio-wheel+350&dpPl=1)
Filter | Marineland Penguin 150 filled with Biomax
Heater| Aqueon 200w heater
Substrate | Tahitian Moon Sand
Substrate| CaribSea Eco Complete
Lighting|Marineland Single Bright

I wish I went with a better lighting system as it's very weak, I can only grow low light, easy going plants. Currently looking for something better. I also want to upgrade to a [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Cascade%C2%AE-Canister-Filter-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406911455&sr=8-1&keywords=pennplax+canister+filter&dpPl=1). canister filter.

I have in there some platties, had 4 red and 4 yellow but some died and some spawned, I don't know how much platties I have. I also have 2 green cory catfish, and 2 zebra danios (I know I'm supposed to have more, but when I first started out I had about 6 of each with some guppies. Had a bad ich attack and lost everyone except the two corys and two danios)



http://imgur.com/a/Pbs4X

That filter is listed as up to 55 gallons. So if you're putting it on a 60 gallon its a bit underpowered.

Looks like even the 55 gallon one only has two media baskets which seems pretty low for a filter for a tank that large. For a similar price you can get a filter rated higher, with higher flow, and more media baskets HERE

The Marineland magniflow in a 55 gallon capacity is also a similar price.

​

As for priming. Do you mean cycling or just getting water into it?

It's not alot of water, maybe 30 to 40 gallons max? , perhaps find a cheap cannister filter online.

That's likely most hassle free for indoors.

https://www.amazon.com/Cascade-CCF3UL-Canister-Filter-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJ9NY

Look at some of those, there has to be a cheap and cheerful option available out there. First figure out how much water the planter will hold and buy a filter with pump that will turn the water 2 to 3 times an hour if you plan to add fish.

If not that maybe build an l-shaped bog style filter in a planter to fit in the corner behind it.

In a 55 gallon its best to go with 3 species at 1m/4f ratios. If you're a novice you should go with the beginner Mbunas (yellow labs, rusties, etc). Definitely do your research first and hopefully you have knowledgeable staff at your LFS to help you with your purchases. Pound for pound Mbuna are the most aggressive cichlids and its an absolute must to keep them in groups. For, a fully stocked 55 gallon Mbuna tank, I would recommend an Aquaclear 110 and a medium sized canister filter (Penn-Plax Cascade is a good economical choice http://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Cascade-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002DJ9NY ) ...and rocks, lots and lots of rocks.

Good luck!

I use these. If you got two, you could have a ton of fish and still maitina great water quality. http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-70-Gallon/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418408571&sr=8-1&keywords=350+penguin

That filter is rated for aquariums up to 25 gallons.


You said "4ft" tank, so I assume it's a 55g?

You typically want to OVER filter a goldfish tank. They are dirty fish. I don't think adding a sponge filter will be enough to give you Adequate filtration for them.

You would be better off saving up and getting a HOB filter. Maybe check out some of the cyber Monday sales. This one here would work and is pretty cheap right now, there are tons if other good deals going on as well.

In the mean time, just up the frequency of water changes to keep them healthy. If it's just the 2 goldfish, a 30 - 40%
partial once a week should be do it , but you can just test your water to figure out exactly how much/often it's needed.

What type of filter do you have currently? Look up a water bottle baffle mod if its a hang-on-back type filter. Put a sponge over the outlet if its something like this or put a prefilter sponge over the intake if its a Hang on back style too. All of these help reduce filter flow.

There's a $40 off amazon. You might find the same cheaper on eBay but shipping will take longer from Hong Kong. Zoo Med Nano 10 External Canister Filter, up to 10 Gallons https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DGHRU2

I personally use this $12 for my mini aquariums.
Elite Underwater Mini Filter, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YD7D4

But I have shrimp and fish livestock. Love that model, been using it for over 10 years.

Your tank is looking great! I honestly just got rid of the filter/light on my chi this morning; replaced it with this light and this filter. It's already much better!

https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Biomax-Bio-Rings-ounces/dp/B000HHSG5M/ref=sr_1_18?crid=2WNF2ZJX4HU97&keywords=filter+media+aquarium&qid=1564853679&s=gateway&sprefix=filter+media+a%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-18

This is one of the product. If you to your amazon wishlist, I could buy it for you.

Do you have any recommended bio media? Or is something like this fine?

I'm sorry are you saying you have 12 fish in a 3.6 gallon tank right now? And you're thinking of upgrading to a 10 because your parents will be doing the maintenance when you are away? If this is the case, that is absolutely not an ok set up for those fish. I don't want you to feel bad. But, you need to bring all 12 of those specific fish back to the LFS as none of them are acceptable in a 10 gallon. There is only one fish that can be in a 3.6 gal that I can think of, that is a male or female betta. But, if you're going to be staying in the dorm, then bring the tank with you unless they have rules about aquariums or leaving the heater unattended. If they are going to do all the maintenance, get a 20 long and they won't have to do hardly any maintenance and you can keep all the fish. Move them over immediately and buy a bottle of Seachem Stability and dose the tank every day until it's cycled. But, you will need a gravel vacuum, just a small one like this and you can use it if you have sand. If you want gravel, you would need a larger tube or it can bend easily. Get the tank at the $/gallon sale. Order your other items online and see what's cheaper. But, You will HAVE to get the following: The Stability, an API Master Test Kit (it will need to be used regularly for testing pH, Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates), a filter (get something like this Aquaclear 50 so you will have enough filtration for those fish and the box is a good size so you can add filter media like this instead of the cartridges which aren't as good anyway. Then all they'll have to do is swish around in the bucket of tank water maybe once a semester. But, there are more things to buy for a tank, a lid, a light, substrate, live plants, etc. An adjustable heater.

The best pet parent you could be would be to return the fish and get a Betta and for goodness sake, tonight at least add water to the top so it's close to being 3 gallons at least.

Okay so with that being said them you should take out the charcoal and save that for later if you need it, not something you need for daily use especially if you want to go planted since it will counter act with any ferts to my knowledge. As for substrate you honestly have so many choices but ada would be good if you want to go planted or to even go with no filter. As for the filter if your going to run one you need to get a biological filter. I use these

You also would need a sponge as a mechanical filtration but if your putting one over the intake that works as well. Sorry if Im either telling you stuff you already know or I'm just repeating things.

That's the Azoo "external power filter" that matches up with the Finnex, though the Finnex is significantly cheaper.

Plants become deficient pretty quickly. You can visibly see their leaves melting or changing color. Depending on the plants you have, depends on how well they can show you. I have Hygrophila, which are notorious for being resource hogs. If anything indicates a deficiency in the tank, it would be them. They go from bright green to black, which is a really good visual indicator.

My tank is not heavily planted, so the carbon injections aren't necessary for the plants to live, but it just helps them to grow and propagate across the tank. I think a lot of people start off buying a lot of plants, which requires them to inject everything into the tank at the start. There is so much plant surface area competing for resources. I intentionally started off sparse to make this a long term thing and just to watch which plants will slowly take over the tank over time.

The shrimp I have range for 1 inch to 2.5 inches. The females are the one over 2 inches. The syphon I use is made for 5 gallon and less tanks. So the force of the siphon really isn't enough to suck them up and they are smart enough to avoid it. I purposely chose to get the smallest syphon so I can make sure I have enough time to get to the whole tank before I collect the 5 gallons. The appropriate sized syphon probably wouldn't have gave me enough time to work around the plants and driftwood in my tank before it filled up the 5 gallon bucket.

The shrimp actually help maintain the tank. They eat the algae that grows on the plants and wood. When you first start a tank, colonies of bacteria will grow randomly in the tank and they will eat that too. The females, being larger and carrying around eggs, eat a lot. The tank was built around a Betta and the females are like the same size the betta minus the Betta's fins. If you stick to community fish, the shrimp will go pretty undisturbed. They really live completely separate lives from the rest of the tank (betta, school of harlequin rasboras, and a panda garra).

I use a finnex px-360.

https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4

It was the smallest canister filter I could find. I tried to get a small canister to get the lowest water current possible while still circulating the water through the whole tank. Captive bred Betta's are so far from their original forms that they suck so much at swimming. This is why I went with something that would produce a low current. This filer comes with a thin cartridge of carbon media. I replaced that with a bag or Purigen. That small cartridge seemed like it would have to be replaced every other month and cleaned every week. The bag of Purigen last for 6 months and was worth buying only having to worry about it twice a year.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B1Q9DUY/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540125239&sr=1

Planted tanks look as beautiful as saltwater tanks and require way less attention. From my experience at least. Everyone that visits my place always asks if my tank is a saltwater tank because all of the colors are so vibrant, yet natural.

Lights: One cheap, one expensive. I have the nicrew, it does fine for my 10g (in my post history)

NICREW DeluxeLED Aquarium Light, Full Spectrum LED Light for Planted Tanks, 20 to 24-inch, 18-Watt, 1200 LM, 7500K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LJKNWS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xqXQAb6EVJ4YC

Finnex Planted+ 24/7 Fully Automated Aquarium LED, Controller, 20 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0HMWHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dsXQAbP4XB4J


Filter: One cheap option, one more expensive. You could probably downgrade the first filter for less gph (under 100) is probably better.

Marineland Penguin 200, Power Filter, 30 to 50-Gallon, 200 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IODZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XsXQAb35KHD23

Finnex PX-360 Compact Canister Aquarium Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VFF8U4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UuXQAbQFZ3NTZ


Heater: Get two of these so you can heat up water for your water changes.

Aqueon Adjustable Submersible Aquarium Heater, 50W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YAJJZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZvXQAbGD1J83W

You'll need a circulation pump as well, you have to have good water flow through your LR - it's your biological filtration. A 425 gph Koralia Nano would be sufficient. Or you could go cheaper I have two 800 gph circulation pumps off eBay and they're solid. Probably saved $50 going with them, and it's just hard to justify the money on something so simple. Even if these br

There's a lot of fish you can go with. Browse through this and this. Just no damsels - I don't know why they recommend damsels as a beginner fish. They're hardy and all, and I guess if you were just going to have 1 fish they can be nice.

I like gobys, firefish, and basslets for that size tank. I just added a royal gramma basslet to my 72 FOWLR - here's a pic, it would do okay in a 29g. Avoid dwarf angels, they're finnicky, a lot of blennies don't do well in a tank that isn't mature (dragonetts). Cardinalfish are okay.

I recently started a 10g after doing a crapload of research. This is what I ended up with:

• Eheim Jager 50w heater
  
• Hydor Koralia Nano 425 powerhead
  
• PAR-38 LED bulb (dimmable) 18k color temp
  
• AquaClear 20 filter
  
• 12 lbs live rock
  
  A lot of folks I talked to said the live rock and water changes would provide sufficient filtration, but I do enjoy the extra water clarity from having carbon and purigen in the filter.

I don’t think those exist, I’ve had a variety of air pumps and none of them were completely silent. I’ve padded them with towels and foam to lessen the noise but the good news is that if it’s for an air stone, you don’t really need one. Water circulation and breaking the surface of the water increases oxygen levels too so if you bought a water circulator and aim it at the surface of the water then you’d be good.

I have this one. It works great and it’s silent

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036S70ZG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521596801&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+water+circulator&dpPl=1&dpID=41RazIHcICL&ref=plSrch

If the air pump is for your filter then change the type of filter that you’re using. External or internal canisters are silent.

Hmm... the container is a plastic storage box I had lying around at home which I spraypainted black. The container was less than $5 if I recall correctly. Black spraypaint (make sure to get one which is designed to adhere to plastic) was about $5.

Air pump is this guy which was about $15.

Light is one of these bulbs, housed in one of these reflectors. $18 and $11 respectively.

Then the air stone, clay pebbles, net pots, air tubing, etc were all leftovers I had lying around.

All told maybe $50?

1. Cay is clay, I have not seen anything to suggest otherwise. I buy from a local hydro shop because he matches amazons price. Leca is the brand, but Hydrocorn from Gold is good too.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Leca-Clay-Orchid-Hydroponic-Media/dp/B004IAP7JW/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=hydroton
   
   
2. The air pump I have had the most success with is a Tetra Whisper. It sits outside all day, every day, for a year now, and it seems fine.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77848-Whisper-Pump-40-Gallon/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=sr_sp-btf_title_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1409410615&sr=8-6&keywords=aquarium+air+pump
   
   
3. Low quality plastics might give off some particulates, but that shouldn't hurt your plants
   
   Best of luck!
   

I've got a paintball tank with this cheapo regulator. I'll spend a bit more on a nicer one someday, but for now it gets the job done. The diffuser is a cheap glass one with a ceramic disk in it. A lot of the reviews mentioned it being overly fragile, but it's been a tough little sucker for me.

If you have a hydroponics store nearby, a lot of them do CO2 tank rentals. It works like propane rentals, you put a deposit on an initial (full) tank and you pay to switch them out when you are empty. If you ever drop CO2 or need your money back, you just return the tank for your deposit.

For a regulator, I recommend going with a full regulator. Even if you ultimately go with a paintball sized canister, you can use an adapter to go down. While you can get an adapter to go the other way (paintball regulator on a full tank), it's much more limiting on the future. The Aquatek regulators are hit or miss (some people love them, some hate them), but I haven't had a problem with mine, and it was by far the cheapest option. GLA regulators are a work of art but much harder on the budget.

Aquatek regulators come with an integrated bubble counter and check valve, but you can use any check valves including the dollar ones at any pet store. Bubble counters are relatively cheap, but if you end up using a ceramic diffuser most have a bubble counter built in. You can get cheap ceramic diffusers on Amazon.

If you run a canister, I'd recommend just getting an Ista reactor. It's not much more money, it's less maintenance than cleaning diffusers, there's less CO2 lost, and less clutter in your tank. If have a canister you want to go something more sleek, you can get an in-line atomizer but I believe these require occasional maintenance compared to a reactor.

I use disposable pressurized co2 canisters right now with one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Nano-CO2-Diffuser-Reactor-Aquarium/dp/B0058XWDFO/

this is what you're using, right?

http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G

& I already have the fluval bubble counter!

Hey I just bought the same tank! I fit the same exact heater in the compartment next to the filter intake tube, it fit perfectly. I also used a little over half a bag of eco-complete. I just planted it a couple days ago. I bought a Nutrafin co2 kit but the ladder diffuser/bubble counter took up a whole wall so I ditched it and bought this glass diffuser and this bubble counter, they're still in the mail though so can't comment on how they work.

It looks like you're going with pressurized co2 which I sort of want to too but the replacement tanks seem expensive. Kind of wish I hadn't bought the Nutrafin and just made my own bottle DIY but the cannister is nice and so is the tubing it comes with and I'll just use the ladder diffuser on a bigger tank. There's not much room to work with and the lid seems annoying to fit things under, like tubing so I'm still working on that but overall it's a beautiful tank. Good luck!

The fluval CO2 system requires you to use disposable co2 canisters. The system comes in two sizes, 20 gram and 88 gram. Depending on the CO2 requirements of your plants, it could end up getting a tad expensive. You may be able to get away with it on such a small tank, but it the long run it may be cheaper to purchase a larger, refillable system.
Assuming you go with the 20 gram kit, which is recommended for up to 15gal. That's ~$28 + S&H. Assuming you are conservative with your CO2, You'll probably use 1 canister every 2 weeks. A 20 gram 3 pack is $14 + S&H. Over the course of a year you will spend ~$145 + S&H for CO2. Over 2 years, that number will be around ~$250 + a lot of S&H. Plus, if you decide to upgrade your tank, you'll also have to upgrade your CO2 system.
If you have the money to spend up front, you'll save yourself time and money in the long run. Get a 24oz Paintball CO2 tank from Amazon for $21. Get it filled at your local sporting goods store for ~$4. Get a diffuser from Amazon for ~$11. Then get a Paintball CO2 Regulator from GLA for $189. One fill up on your tank is equal to more than 34 20 gram canisters from Fluval and it only costs about $4 to refill, and if you have a Dicks Sporting Goods near you, 5th refill is free. Total cost is $221 + S&H, but that regulator is quality made and will last you years.
This is the set-up I use on my 7.5 gal and I'll be honest, after all other methods of "low cost" CO2 injection failed me and wasted my money, shelling out $200 for a regulator was quite painful, but this was the single best purchase I've ever made in my 20 years of keeping fish. So, if you can afford it, or can wait a bit and save some cash, it's worth it.
The simple fact that Fluval wants to charge you 13.99 for just over 2.1 ounces of CO2 when you can get a 24oz tank filled for $4 should make you question the purchase of their system.

With those plants yes you do need c02. And very high lighting. That light probabaly won't be enough. I'd guess you'd need two of those. Personally if you're trying to save money I would just go buy a 48 inch t5-t12 4 bulb shop light and hang it above the tank. For the c02 if you want to save money you could buy a paintball c02 tank, a small adaptor, and then a regulator/solenoid for that. And then you will want to buy and diffuser/atomizer/reactor. Personally I would go with an inline reactor you'll save a ton of c02 and there for more money. All of these things I just mentioned can be bought on amazon.

Lighting: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GWAJGW0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_Xvk-wb1EQ4JXR

(Bulbs for lighting: www.amazon.com/dp/B005OLL5IG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_yyk-wbCP0NEWE)

C02: (tank) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XKFQCM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_Bzk-wbCKB2M5G

(Adaptor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004M49QDC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_DAk-wbPXGA6R8

(Regulator) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydroponics-Extoic-Injection-System-Regulator-Grow-Room-Flow-Meter-Control-CO2/221446697164?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35626%26meid%3D2b21bf0137344d8aa2d826341e206413%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D321217917654

(sorry for the long link)

(Reactor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DGJDXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_2Ck-wbWCH2VM5

^you do need a canister filter for that so if you don't have one of those here's a cheap one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00896IILA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_VGk-wbNBS50GK


Realistically this is just the beginning of things you'll need to get a tank like that. But that is a cheap and good start. If you have any questions feel free to ask. It can be daunting but it's worth it!

If you want a canister, I would suggest this or this. We have two of the 535 gph canisters and they have been awesome. They are almost identical to Marineland filters (we buy Marineland filter pads and bioballs to fill them) but these will save you money.

As for lights, I really like CurrentUSA (we buy them from petmountain.com) but don't have any experience with LED. Your tank is pretty tall so you may need to go for something with more output than that though, so it may be worth forking over the big bucks for a good brand like Coralife just to get the additional intensity their better lenses/bulbs provide.

https://www.amazon.com/XinYou-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-XY-2821/dp/B009V3UGDS/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1465774279&sr=1-11&keywords=sponge+filter

Hook an air filter to that and you're good to go. I'm actually using 4 of the larger ones in my 20gallon partitioned tank.

http://imgur.com/ft6R7F7

and that's the only filter I'm using. Shrimps don't produce a lot of waste so a sponge filter works fine.


Here's my 2.5G tank setup:
http://imgur.com/zSssxHq

this is what i'm using in all my tanks. if that's too big, this is a good alternative.

NEVER buy this. the connection for the air tube is too big and is nearly impossible to get a tube on.

Due to the small size of a 3.5g, this may suit a bit better in terms of fit.

Alternatively Aqualighter's aLift sponge filter is similar and may (subjectively) look better.

Finally, if sound is an issue; I am running an aquaclear HOB with a makeshift prefilter sponge on my 3.5g cube (CRS) which is much quieter than a sponge filter.

I do like it, but at least for me the lack of ball valves definitely deter me from cleaning it as much as I should and and to buy them separate is expensive enough where I should have just got an Eheim. It’s so easy to just close the valves and carry canister to the sink.
I do have this filter on a ten gallon( tiny sun sun canister ) which doesn’t have ball valves but is a more manageable size and would probably be perfect for a ten gall betta tank ... Sunsun Tech'n'Toy HW-603B 106 GPH 3-Stage External Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC6SCJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MVIpDb130RAQR I believe it comes with Lots of sponges so u just need to get your own ceramic rings. It’s not as overpowered, but it works well and has a nice spray bar. I love canisters because they are very QUIET !

I'm on mobile, so I couldn't link to all your tank choices/Aqadvisor, but I'll comment anyway, haha.

As far as the tank, I'd go with a five gallon if you are able, something like a Fluval Chi.

If you buy a kit like that, don't expect to use the light or filter. You can get a rimless cube for around $25/$30 without all the extra stuff.

As far as the filter, the ones you linked are fine with fish, but I wouldn't use either with shrimp, it creates too much flow in a small aquarium. Stick with a sponge filter. They are cheap and efficient, and shrimp love to pick at them and eat tiny bits of debris off them.
I just ordered this one:

Jardin Fish Tank 6-Layer Sponge Biochemical Water Corner Filter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT1XXJW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_vgKrub023RYRC

It's going in my Chi.

As for lighting, if you don't have a lot of money you can just put a clamp light on with CFL, just make sure your bulb is 6,500K. If you have the money, get a Finnex Fugeray.

Get your plants established before adding the shrimp. I would recommend cycling for at least two months with plants before adding any shrimp. Make sure your parameters are excellent, and don't forget your GH and KH, very important

As far as mystery snails, I don't have personal experience, so I can't say but I would not put one in my shrimp tank. Ramshorns and MTS are probably better. I have them and I just had to move a few over to another tank bc they were eating all the food.

Ecocomplete is good, but I'd go with the finest grade, as I couldn't get plants to root in the gravelly stuff and shrimp prefer sand anyway. Black blasting sand is a cheap alternative, you just have to wash it a lot initially and then supplement plants with root tabs.

Hope this helps!

Really like the corner sponge filter- they're about five dollars and they work well to develop beneficial bacteria. Recommend getting an air pump that's next size up from what you need. So for example I have a 5.5 and I use a 10 gal pump.

I use a smaller version of this guy

Okay, that's about what I ordered. Uxcell Jardin Fish Tank 6-Layer Sponge Biochemical Water Corner Filter, Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DT1XXJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_A1M8yb97NN2JV

I miss cheap USA goods. The whisper 10 on Amazon.com is $6USD and it is $16CDN on Amazon.ca.

Anywho thanks!

This one is pretty cool because you can put it in a corner. This one is also good, just a normal sponge filter, kind of on the bigger side as well.

I have an HOB on my sand bottom tank and it's never picked up sand to that extent. Also, if you're close to a PETCO, I get the Fluval prefilters for the CHI, or you can get any foam block from their line, the one pictured is the Foam&Biomax renewal kit for the Fluval edge (roughly $4 and you get the cool biomax Renewal Kit. Link to product picture below. EDIT: forgot to say that you cut a line across the top of the foam block and just stick your outflow pipe down it. Just be gentle and use common sense when doing it, foam will be reusable for months and months :D

Another really good alternative if your fish are really sensitive to the water flow is to get a foam filter. Those things don't get HALF the respect they deserve and they're AMAZING. You will never experience better water clarity. I'm sold for life. Link to product picture below too. Good luck!!




Foam Filter:




http://www.amazon.com/Bacto-surge-Foam-Filter-Large/dp/B00GOFPX9I?ie=UTF8&keywords=Foam%20filter&qid=1462715582&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1




Renewal Kit:




http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Edge-BioMax-Renewal-3-PACK/dp/B00FJK40NE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462715690&sr=8-2&keywords=Fluval+renewal+kit

I use air powered sponge filters so I can adjust flow by adjusting the airflow. Something like this with an inline valve in the airline. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_exnXAbHNCKM46

As far as slowing down an integral or hob filter you can either put some fine foam on the inlet of a hob with something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LLW1VJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hznXAbDQ8N25Q


Fine sponge does a great job of restricting flow.

Honestly, I keep plants and a sponge filter. I do a 10% water change once a month. Lots of people will say that's not enough or often enough but it works for me.

Here it is on Amazon

Keep it until it's falling apart - same as the sponge. It should take a long time, perhaps years. Just clean them periodically. The only things you need to replace regularly are the optional filter components: carbon every 3-4 weeks and loose filter floss as needed.

I've been running the Aquaclear 30 on a tank for 16 months and the sponges and ceramic are still in great shape. I keep two sponges at the bottom and two bags of ceramic on top. No carbon. I've replaced the prefilter once.

Doubling up on the media is beneficial in a couple ways. First, it's extra room for bacteria to grow. Second, once it's seeded you can take some if you need it for a new, hospital, or QT tank.

For instance: Last month I set up a small QT tank and instantly cycled it by taking some of the Aquaclear 30's media. I used this $5 filter with this $7 air pump plus some airline and the tank was up and running. I replaced what I took from the 30 with fresh media and the next time I need another tank I'll repeat the process. 😀

What kind of filter do you have? You can put a sponge around it or change the filter, I have this one that helps distribute warmth throughout the tank. I think he's probably spending a lot of time next to the heater because as you stated it is on the cooler side, especially at night. Ideally you want a heater that maintains a stable temperature throughout the day. Maybe also consider getting a heater with more watts so the temperature is able to remain more stable? I use this one, it does a great job and is a little more expensive than other heaters but keeps the temperature stable throughout the day. However with your 29 gallon tank you may need a higher wattage.

Good recommendation. Something like this will work as well.

Corner Filter Aquarium Fish Tank Internal Air Driven Filter with Media XY-2008 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSCB9GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y21czbT0G0ZNV

Just make sure to rinse the media every so often

Here are some good airpump + sponge filters:
most sponge filters are just sponge, though there are a couple that also contain ceramic rings or other biomedia.

here's a sponge filter that'll work for tanks up to 5 gallons.

If you do end up with a larger tank, this sponge filter has more filtering capacity. (you can also use this in a smaller tank, but it'll take up a lot of space)

For both filters you'll also need some airtubing, an airpump (other brands are also fine, but I like this one), and a valve(this one is a 10-pac, but you get the idea, here's a single corner version). If you like being extra safe, you can also get a checkvalve, to make sure your tank doesn't accidentally drains.

It’s a Caf-10 I bought locally. I love the gravel compartment for upping the bio filter capacity.

For 5 gallons I love this heater, it stays at 78 degrees which is way better than "10 degrees above your room temperature" or 75 degrees. I got mine at walmart. For the filter I use a small air pump and this sponge filter. It's tiny but has both a sponge and rocky filter media, which you can replace with your own small biomax ceramic filter media. I found it could handle my betta's waste just fine.

​

edit: oops I just realized the heater I mentioned is yours haha. Mine works really well! I really haven't found a better one that's appropriate for such a small tank.

I have that little cave decor you see in the picture, and a floating betta log. Both feel smooth to the touch (inside and outside). I took out my betta leaf as I have seen some reports of it cutting up their betta’s tail. I also took a stiff fabric plant out as well as a plastic log I had in there. The log felt mainly smooth, but on the inside there were some tougher areas so I took it out to be the on the safe side.

I have a sponge filter with an airflow control valve connected to a bleed valve and check valve.

my filter

I was always a HOB person myself until the one on my 30g and the one on my 5g decided to start leaking on the floor within a week of each other 😂 Since then I’ve stuck with internal filtration. Powerhead driven sponge filter on the 30g plus a second small internal filter for added circulation and a source of seeded filter media for hospital or new tanks; in my 5g I had a large sponge filter for a while, then I tried an under gravel filter and hated it, so I switched to a tiny combo [sponge / “box” filter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HYEO8H6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title) that I love; air powered corner box filter in the 10g plus a sponge that I stuck an air stone inside of to make more surface area for the beneficial bacteria; finally I have a Fluval Spec III at work which comes with built in filtration that is essentially a giant sponge filter but with a small pump that pulls the water through it.

Sorry that was way more info than you wanted, but I figured if you were thinking of switching I’d give you some options 😂

I use this sponge filter with a Wal-Mart air pump and tubing. For the heater I use this Guy. I have a 5 gallon as well, and so far, so good!

Here is the mobile version of your link

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZW6OHHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451580191&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=uniclife+80+gph+submersible+pump&th=0

This is the one I have. It works great. Got me through about 30 gallons so far. Sorry for the poor formatting. I'm on mobile and forgot how to make it look all nice.

Sponge filters for both tanks. Adjustable flow too. I use the Aquarium Co-Op nano usb air pump. It's dead silent unless you put your ear next to it. You'll hear bubbles pop at times from the filter though, not sure how sensitive your ears or your roommate's are.

(all materials available on Amazon for ~$45): sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Diagram: https://m.imgur.com/gallery/6GUliCb
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C5KSCMD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tuBwDbQRXRZAH
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXRDZPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fuBwDbXJFK5KG

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZW6OHHY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2H6rxbN3FN0AV

I got this one. It's pretty darn slow it's done the job when I've left town for 10 days or so. I can't remember exactly but I think it took like 4 minutes for 3/4 of a gallon. Keep in mind that if you don't wanna water every day you'll need one of those digital outlet timers. I got one from home depot for like $10 that you can program for and day of the week. I usually do Monday and Thursday or something like that

I would recommend a basic sponge filter. Something like this:
Huijukon Air Pump Double Sponge Filter for Aquarium Fish Tank Up to 55 Gallons (Fiter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXRDZPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1-RvDb4Y55QH5

I have a ten gallon I use a sponge filter on, it’s fairly quite if u get a good air pump, adds aeration to the tank and the flow isnt as heavy. You can get an air pump with a dial too so you can adjust how strong the bubbles are

I have a power head that came with a co2 system, it is labeled Red Sea turbo D-800, it is small and adjustable. Something like this might work https://www.amazon.com/Uniclife-Submersible-Aquarium-Powerhead-Hydroponic/dp/B00ZW6OHHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485119555&sr=8-1&keywords=small+adjustable+powerhead

The SunSun canister filters on Amazon are affordable, powerful, and quiet; best canister filter you can get for the money IMO. I have the 302 since it was the cheapest, but there are other models, some with UV sterilizers.

Album here, sorry for the crappy phone pics.

This was my first time using this setup as well as my first time using this pump, but I think it worked pretty well. The flow rate was definitely good enough for my needs, but it took a while to cool because I ran out of ice pretty quickly. Link to it here.

Huijukon Air Pump Double Sponge Filter for Aquarium Fish Tank Up to 55 Gallons (Fiter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXRDZPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e.ZpzbW8Q12Z9

We all start out somewhere and good on you for learning and taking steps to improve it! :)

I think /u/SweetMamaKaty covered most of your bases when it comes to tank size and everything but you may want to check out Solid Gold on youtube for other guides and maybe it will spark a question you haven't thought of.

Two things when you're setting up your new tank though: avoid gravel and think about getting a canister filter. So first, gravel is kind of sucky for a few reasons that I'm sure you've noticed like their poo and food settling down in there and being awkward to clean and secondly, because they can try to eat it and choke. I'm still not sure how common the second issue is but a nice sand bottom of bare bottom is so much easier to clean. Secondly, canister filters are amazing. I personally bought a SunSun and love it. Its a bit pricier than a hang on the back filter but I felt it was worth it when I upgraded and the Sunsun is a good budget canister filter.

Its also a bit harder to guess goldfish's age simply because they could be a bit stunted and what not. If you've had them for almost a year, they're probably not the size they're supposed to be (really no judgement. its a common mistake and I don't think anyone here will fault you for it). But they look like two commons to me but I deal with mostly fancies and not too up and up on the single tails. They're really cute and lucky to have someone who cares enough to do their research :)

Don't know if you got equipment yet but I started with a 55 hex. I only switched to rectangular 55 because the other half found a great deal for us.
I use a fluvial e series heater they are much cheaper on amazon then what the retail stores sell them at. I believe 200 watt is what I use for 55 gallons. I use this filter it is completely silent http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MGX7JXA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457790868&sr=8-2&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter I just used the stuff that came with it. I switch out the carbon once a month and one filter pad once a month. I also get rid of gunk if there is any in there.
Chromies school and stay towards the top of the tank, trying to have levels in my hex is why I have those fish. They are fun to watch.

So it's actually a 2 in one,

Item listed here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXRDZPO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_K4YWCbBV3D5RS,

Never hurts to have more filtration.

Amazon?

This is the pump, and yeah just put a "T" to send the water up both sides. I would recommend it. It works great.

I'm in a similar situation to you. My setup is that I have one of these little pumps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LHC8UX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a bucket filled with water from my tap (that I carried over). At the start of the chilling phase I run water from that bucket through the chiller to another waste bucket (don't recirculate at this stage). After a few minutes, I add a couple bags of ice to the water source and start recirculating (I move the output hose from the waste bucket to the source bucket). Also top up the water a bit (and make sure you run the pump on the lowest flow rate).

I also have an immersion chiller with connections for a garden hose. I have since removed the garden hose connection and hook it up to a submersible pump in a cooler of ice and water. For me, it works considerably faster than having it hooked up to the hose. That could be due to warmer ground water temps where I live though.

It would depend on the size of the sponge filter. You could either do 2 small ones or just 1 medium to large 1. Another thing to look for is what the sponger filter is rated at per gallons. I have a 20 gallon tall with this sponge filter which I love love just love as it is my first sponge filter and it keeps the water so clean! I highly recommend it as it also adjustable height wise to either produce more surface tension or lower it.


sponge filter recommendation

Edit: also this filter is rated at 55 gallons so it’s the real deal

Putting any fish in a tank this small would be blasphemy to most.

If you must I would recommend Endler's Livebearer - males only. 2-3 at absolute maximum. Lovely to look at and adaptable fish.

Do you mean a sponge filter? I think this would be suitable in that regard.

Well that's great to hear it didn't affect pH in anyway. As far as the system goes, I've already went through and built the setup in the video. I'm making a few modifications to link together another tote to the current one. I'll likely use the same pump for both systems.

Here is the pump on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponics/dp/B01LHC8UX8/ref=sxin_2_osp105-95984b9e_cov

Huijukon Air Pump Double Sponge Filter for Aquarium Fish Tank Up to 55 Gallons (Fiter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXRDZPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zoYuDbN9TR716

I bought this sponge filter for my 15 gallon. How much airflow should my pump be set to?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXRDZPO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_K.9wDbHHY7N8R

Out of curiosity, which sponge filter do you use? I had something like this, but smaller, before: https://www.amazon.com/Huijukon-Double-Sponge-Aquarium-Gallons/dp/B01LXRDZPO

(FYI, Cobalt's swimming in a 10 gallon tank now. I think he likes it.)

Bless your heart! So if I get this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXRDZPO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A316L92SV4DH0Y&psc=1) filter (bc it's prime shipping haha) how would I set up the air pump? This one goes on the wall of the tank right?

You're not relying on it for filtration and the waterfall won't be more than a few inches higher than the pump so a super cheap one (like this or this) would work just fine.

I had this, found out that more bubbles fixes it typically, then I put a cheap $5 sponge filter in the tank and I haven't had an issue with it since.

​

I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZJYC9G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the 60: https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO

The 150 is also good.

The only reason I went with the 60 is because it's very small, and there is little bioload in the tank it's on.

Sunsun makes smaller rated canisters but they are still bigger than a HOB. This is a small one https://www.amazon.com/TechnToy-HW-603B-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00CC6SCJQ or https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MGX7JXA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1469731069&sr=1-1&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

Also like snowmunkey said, aquaclear HOB are also an excellent choice.

You could always go for something like this. I am running this alongside my 2 2215s. Works just fine. No leaks. If you are on a budget but need an ok canister I would recommend the sunsuns.

Here's the exact one I have on my 20 gallon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MGX7JXA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have an aquarium chiller connected to it as well.

Ok thank you so something like this filter would do the job? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MGX7JXA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00892EN22&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=088S0GBKCWZBZKASD7T0

This canister filter is discontinued. For this reason I cannot find a price on it. To be honest i would buy a new canister filter for the 15 dollars extra. People here recommend sunsun usually. This one comes with its own media http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/product-reviews/B00MGX7JXA/ref=cm_cr_dp_qt_hist_one?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&showViewpoints=0
but watch a video on how to set it up. Directions are bad

I've had a Sunsun (this one) on one of my tanks for almost two years now and have never had any issues with it.

doesn't need to be anything fancy. something like this should work fine.

One of these, one of these, and one of these. Don't have any pictures, but its a pretty simple set up. You set the temp you want it at, set the window to .1 or .2 degrees. Don't plug the heater into the controller's outlet unless its underwater, otherwise you blow the fuse. Probably a good idea to start with hot tap water and add some boiling water from the kettle. The heater will keep the water up to temp, no problem, but it can take a while to raise the temp from room temp. I always make sure nothing is going to touch the heater in the water. I'm not sure, but it could probably melt a bag. I have a length of high-themp CPVC pipe that I put over the pot or cambro, and use binder clips to suspend the heater and sensor.

My set up is the smallest Tetra air pump they sell with some chinese sponge filter

cost me about $15 for the whole set up (had extra hose laying around, so you'll need airline tubing as well). Super easy to set up, and the pump comes with a small valve to control how much air you let into the sponge.

I had bought a bubbler from Petco for 15 bucks to circulate water. It was a tight fit but my steaks turned out great. I also found a bubbler on amazon for 8 bucks which is a lot more compact than the petco one. Ill be making steaks for father's day and will probably use the above set up with this bubbler. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZW6OHHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While I haven't use this yet (still have to build my new shrimp tank), I purchased this and appearance-wise it seems to match the Spec V pumps as I used to have a few of those tanks in the past. This may be a cheap replacement to keep on hand in the event you can't clean out the Spec V pump or it finally quits on you.

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponics/dp/B01LHC8UX8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1523813315&sr=8-7&keywords=submersible+pump

&

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-Brass-Quick-Disconnect-Garden-Hose-Adapter-Set/3111057

Something like this with quick disconnect fittings installed on the input and output of your immersion chiller or plate. Blue hawk makes great quick disconnect fittings that will last a good while. I will quick disconnect ground water to ground temp then switch to the submersible in ice water for the drop to pitch temp from ground.

Here is a picture of my setup. Ground water is hooked up in the photo but it should give you a visual of what I am doing.

https://imgur.com/a/DFuGY

Driven by a fountain pump

Homasy 400GPH Submersible Pump 25W Fountain Water Pump with 5.9ft Power Cord, 2 Nozzles for Aquarium, Fish Tank, Pond, Statuary, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LHC8UX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EeeIDbB39X0A8

for now yes check out this filter on amazon, it's a sponge filter and the flow is weak i have the 20g version in my tank. It works well and easy to maintain. This one is for 5 gallons, i forgot what size tank you have.

https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponics/dp/B01LHC8UX8

This would be FAR more than powerful enough, including head pressure, but its adjustable so you could turn it down.

Is this the one ? https://www.amazon.com/XINYOU-XY-2830-Aquarium-Bio-Sponge-Filter/dp/B00KZJYC9G/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1520484265&sr=8-8&keywords=mini+sponge+filter

I have two Penn Place Cascade Cannisters 1000s.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Definitletly cascade filters, you could get 2 of them with 530 GPH and still be under $150. from what I hear, they are VERY cheap, reliable, and silent once you get the air bubbles out

100 gallon filter, 265 GPH for $67.95

I was looking at those but the cascade is the same price.... Cascade CCF3UL Canister Filter For Large Aquariums and Fish Tanks - Up To 100 Gallons, Filters 265 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RrURDbG3PD113

I have two Cascade 1000 canister filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_B-mYDbXM8GERE

It states it cycles 265 GPH but I believe it depends on the amount of media you run inside the canister and overtime the flow decreases.

They have other models the 1200 and 1500 which state it cycles up to 350 GPH but those don't fit in my cabinet.

I use this for my newts at lab: https://www.amazon.com/Cascade-CCF3UL-Canister-Filter-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJ9NY

I say just get a canister, they're pretty simple and do a better job in my experience. I've been using mine for 6 months and no problems

Cascade CCF3UL Canister Filter, 100 Gallon, 265gph https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJYpybKQSQWYH

Take a look at the [Penn Plax Cascade 1000](http://www.Cascade.com/ CCF3UL Canister Filter, 100 Gallon, 265gph https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MDgSCb7X1B8MF). I have two of them and they've served me well for over a year.

You might consider changing to a canister filter. It will remove tons more waste. Amazon has some cheap ones that are actually very good.
Lots of people with turtles in the comments on this one
Cascade CCF3UL Canister Filter, 100 Gallon, 265gph https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kZGQCbZADV6E8

Can also use polyester fiberfill or quilt batting and make/cut your own filters.

I can't answer questions on sand maintenance, since I dont have sand in any of my tanks yet. However, I normally get all of my substrates (and the vast majority of everything else) through Amazon.

This is one of the highest rated sands I've seen/heard of. I'm using their gravel in a tank I'm currently cycling, and I would recommend it, so I don't see why their sand would be any different.

It normally takes a day or two longer to ship substrate than normal, even with prime, but the three or four times I've ordered substrate, it's usually ended well.

Edit: Also, only slightly related, I'm not sure how big your tank is, or what your stocking levels are, or your budget, but if you're looking for an affordable canister, the Penn-Plax Cascade 1000 is rated for tanks up to 100 gal, and it's only $70. I have their 500 (up to 30 gallons) for a 20 gallon tank, and it's incredible.

What are your thoughts on this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Cascade®-Canister-Filter-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJ9NY

I have owned 2 SunSun 70x filters over the last few years. While they work great at first eventually they both developed leaks around the top. Both times the leaks started right after a filter cleaning, which I only did maybe every 3-4 months. I spent a lot of time trying to diagnose the leaks but never got anywhere. I wouldn't recommend them unless you're OK with it happening eventually.

After my second one started leaking after a filter cleaning I purchased this one as a replacement. It has been going solid so far and seems to be a higher quality design.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUW/?tag=fishlore-20

https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-50-Gallon/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1519069282&sr=1-4&keywords=filter&th=1

I was looking at these two so far, but the 2nd one seems off since its half price the others...

Penguin 330 filter is bio-wheel hang on the back of the tank power filter. You can read reviews about performance on amazon in QA. Wheels sometimes stuck and have to be periodically replaced, they create splashing sound, unlike common long lip HOBs (Marina Slim). Smaller space for filter media, unlike the second filter, but easier access for replacing it.

The second is canister filter. It could be hidden out of the way, quiet, has more space for filter media, but harder to clean. Without cleaning it could become nitrate producing factory.

You can use both of them and find instructions on the manufacturer's websites.

Right now the ammonia is down to 1 ppm- maybe a little over 1 but not as high as 2. That's a great sign.

Maybe I do need a second filter. I'm using this one:

MarineLand Penguin Power Filter, 50 to 70-Gallon, 350 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_PizLBb1DFEXS2

I use this one for my one res. Works pretty well in a 20 gal.

Marineland Penguin Power Filter, 50 to 70-Gallon, 350 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BK.PybG26P2C1

I'll keep an eye on my parameters (as always), but I also have a Penguin 350 that I got with my tank that hasn't been used yet.


Though, I have been thinking of upgrading to a canister.

K man, I got the Marineland penguin 350. I'm about as frugal as they come. I got 5 cories, a bristlenose pleco, 8 cherry barbs, 8 cardinal tetras, 8 Rummy nose tetras, and an apisto, and it's been great.

Marineland Penguin Power Filter, 50 to 70-Gallon, 350 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g3k6Cb1M3QRTZ

Just gotta make sure your water is filled up pretty high. Then it's quiet.

not sure where you're getting your prices. I got two decently reviewed powerheads for $14, a skimmer for $100, $40 for 10lbs of live rock and another $60 for 20lbs of non-live rock.
And then i got your basic run of the mill filter for $30

Got pretty much all of this on amazon. I'm sure the local fish shops would charge up the a$$ for this stuff... Do you think I need any other filtering other than what i'm linking to below?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IMDQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Coralife-05271-Super-Skimmer-65-Gallon/dp/B000BJNL6A/ref=sr_1_22?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1480323303&sr=1-22&keywords=saltwater+sump

I have a Penguin 350 filling in on a 55 gallon tank with a Red-ear slider in it, since my canister bit the dust about a week ago. It's pretty old, but it's a workhorse. It really moves a considerable amount of water, and keeps the turtle tank pretty clean which is impressive because even one turtle generates substantially more waste than a whole aquarium of fish.

I was actually considering buying another Penguin 350 filter just to have on hand since Amazon dropped the price down this week...

Several questions about my 55(ish) gallon freshwater tank:

1. I have a marineland filter ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IMDQM). Right now, it is just using the intake it came with. I am considering getting an under-gravel filter (I was thinking this one? https://www.amazon.com/Undergravel-Filteration-Bottom-Circular-Aquarium/dp/B00ZUIRGOU ) Would it be possible to connect that setup to my current filter? How would I do that?
   
2. So when I replace the filter, I would probably completely overhaul the tank. I currently only have 2 5 gallon buckets; I was thinking that I'd fill those from the existing water and put the fish (I have about 20 guppies, tetras, and other small community fish) into one of the buckets. Would it be safe to have those fish in that bucket for 2-3 days while I let the temperature adjust with the new water? And would adding the 10 gallons of old water to 45 gallons of new (RO filtered) water with some bacteria starter and conditioner be OK?
   
3. I plan to wash the gravel and decorations, clean the tank, rearrange the plants, put in the under-gravel filter, and better position the air stone (a 12 inch bar). Is there anything else I should consider doing at this time?
   
   Note: my biggest problems right now are filthy gravel and a high alkaline and PH that I can't lower.

>cheap filter (no actual "filter" as that will undermine any treatment)


Sorry, not understanding that portion. And what do you mean the 'filter floss'? I have the filter pad in my sump followed by some live rock followed by my heavy duty filter that picks up any other type of debris. Are you just using a 'hang over the edge' type of filter? http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-70-Gallon/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=sr_1_6?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1420570358&sr=1-6&keywords=aquarium+filter+media

I have one of these in my 2.5gal RCS tank, and it's UH MAAAY ZIIIING. Quiet, and if you take a pre filter sponge, cut it one one side, and wedge it under the outflow there will be almost no surface agitation, like this.

I also have this one and it's great too, but it's REALLY powerful despite it's size. You can put a sponge on the outflow to disperse it too though.

You can't get replacement products for that tank.. I had emailed the company about that a while back.

You could get one of these http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-Elite-Underwater-Filter-Listed/dp/B0009YD7D4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371078787&sr=8-2&keywords=underwater+filter+for+aquarium

http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-17772-Mini-Desktop-Aquarium/dp/B002FN3MEG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1371078873&sr=8-3&keywords=mini+bow+aquarium

Amazon has new ones on sale!

Do you have any cycled filter media ready for it?

Thank you for all the great info! I had a feeling the filter was garbage, my girlfriend and I actually bought a Elite Mini filter that is a sponge design (https://www.amazon.ca/Elite-Underwater-Mini-Filter-Listed/dp/B0009YD7D4) but we got really concerned that the flow is too high even on the lowest setting for our little Charles.

Do you have any opinions on it? How much flow is too much? We do not have any plants yet to disrupt the flow a bit in front of it and help him out/keep him calm

Neon tetras also like warm water 26C OR 75F so do bettas if you plan on getting one. you may need a heater. A betta or some shrimp and snails are the only thing that can live okay in a 2.5 gallon. Some people don't even like putting bettas in anything under 5gal, If you keep up on water changes and had a filter and a heater it would be okay in my opinion.

One of these filters would probably work okay:

http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-Elite-Underwater-Filter-Listed/dp/B0009YD7D4/ref=sr_1_25?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1411943533&sr=1-25&keywords=filter

http://www.amazon.com/JEBO-501-Hang--Aquarium-Filter/dp/B00ESWVCR6/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1411943600&sr=1-11&keywords=marina+filter

Thank you, and Gladly! They seem to both do the job well enough! :) no complaints yet.

Filter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YD7D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heater: https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-AQE06194-Heater-Aquarium-10-watt/dp/B009ETLY30/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467064775&sr=8-3&keywords=aqueon+heater

I have the same Marina HOB. The air pump method was really noisy with super low flow for me. I ended up buying an Elite Mini Underwater Pump. It works like a charm, adjustable flow and is much quieter. Only $9.00 on Amazon and I found them at several of my local big box pet stores.

EDIT: I should clarify that I got the medium size HOB refugium/breeder box.

When I had fiddler crabs, I had a set up similar to this. It was a 20gal long, which has the same length and width of a 29gal.

These are the products I remember using:

• Hagen underwater filter
  
• random sand at Petsmart. You could get away with something cheaper no problem.
  
• whatever salt was at Petsmart
  
• I live in a hot climate and didn't need a heater.
  
• I used a bunch of rocks and gravel to keep the "beach" from collapsing and that was it. :)
  
  They were really fun, I hope you enjoy them! Watching them run around and dig holes and fight of territory was pretty entertaining.

Try this for flow instead of air stone. https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Underwater-Mini-Filter-Listed/dp/B0009YD7D4

Give this little thing a go. I use it for my Shrimp Bowl and it's grand! The only suggestion I have is to put and elbow or some other kind of nozzle, like this, to direct the outflow up to ensure you little buddy doesn't get pushed around.

Any where it will fit really. Stick it on the bottom. Get rid of the carbon it comes with and add more bio rings. https://smile.amazon.com/Fluval-Biomax-Bio-Rings-ounces/dp/B000HHSG5M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519305194&sr=8-1&keywords=fluval+bio+rings

Cartridges like this are basically scams. They eventually get overloaded and then force you to buy new ones every couple of months, or sooner, depending on how messy your water gets. They also often contain activated charcoal, which is great from removing compounds from your water, but is useless about 99% of the time for aquariums. It will remove medication from water, but generally medications crash your cycle anyways, so a 100% water change is perfectly fine. You're better off with an aquarium sponge to serve as mechanical filtration, which costs about $3, and you can rinse off in your old tank water when you do your water changes, meaning it will last basically forever.

When people talk about media, they mean some sort of hard material that serves as a breeding ground for bacteria, for example this one from Fluval. That's a good thing, as that bacteria is what keeps ammonia from killing our finned friends. Filter media lasts for a long while, and you only ever change out part of it at a time so you keep your cycle running.

Do you already have a filter unit? In basically any filter you can replace their cartridge with a sponge + media with little to no hassle.

I would get these biomax rings and instead of the unassembled bags, I would just toss them right into your filter. Leave your existing pad in there for a few weeks to give the bacteria time to form on the new stuff. You could put the bio rings in a piece of pantyhose if needed. It's cheaper and probably less work.

Would you recommend these?

Canister filters are pretty simple. There's a hose that goes from the tank into the filter (into filter, out from tank). It uses a pump to push the water through a few layers of filter media. First few layers are usually some sort of foam or mesh to help remove larger bits. Next layer is usually a bio media. Next layer is usually a super-fine gritty substance (some people use activated carbon, some folks use something like purigen) wrapped in a mesh bag to help remove all the super-fine bits.

Lastly the pump will push all that water through the output hose into the tank.

Instead of just dumping the water in the tank all willy-nilly, the eheim filters have a spray bar. It's essentially a hose that has lots of holes in the end so that the water comes out neatly across a larger area - instead of just in one big stream.

Does the aquatop canister look like the Finnex PX-360 one?

I couldn't remember if Finnex & Aquatop had the same canister, or it was Finnex & Azoo.

I have the first two filters. I would not recommend either. The sponge filter is not big enough to fit an air stone inside, which is a must, and the tetra filter just was too loud and had bubbles continuously flowing out the top. I would look into these two:
http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463179411&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex+px-360

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463179477&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+20

Here is the desktop version of your link

I think that finnex makes the smallest canister on the market: http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4

But 'small' is really relative here, although it's cool that you can mount it like a HOB.

Tons of sites to buy all this. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/ (good all around) - http://www.adana-usa.com/ (high end and more pricey, but they have the tiny ADA CO2 system) - http://greenleafaquariums.com/ (had good luck with these guys) - Amazon has a ton of stuff too even.

You could try a small canister filter--those are pretty quiet (http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4) but it might be a bit too much for your shrimp unless they have lots of cover.


The AquaClear noise was pretty annoying to me as well, as my tanks are in my bedroom too. They're great filters so I forced myself to get used to it, and it eventually went away. How loud is it though? Shouldn't be loud enough to keep you up, if so there might be something catching the impeller.

You don't NEED one, but I'd suggest this if you do plan to get one.

Replying to both of you here - I'm about 5 days planted, so I can't tell yet where any stagnant areas are. I'll keep an eye out - I do have my pH meter and drop checker on the far right front and it's reading perfectly. I know I have current because of some of the debris that's floated up and is moving around. I'll wait to decide if I need one. I'm going to end up with a jungle, so a current will be pretty much required. I'm thinking about this one because it's small.

I've never had a problem with the Hydor Koralia power heads over the years.

That was there when I bought the tank, I just never took it off. I have another thermometer on a suction cup mixed in with all the other equipment. I used live sand and rock to get it cycled. 6 inches of water, sand, rest of the water, rock. Cleanup crew went in after 2 weeks, fish went in a week later. It has a Marineland Penguin Biowheel 200 for the filter, nothing fancy. The powerhead was a pretty cool find. Here it is Works pretty good on only 3-4w of power. Well see how well it holds up.

Thanks a lot for the info, I'm gathering all I need to make a DIY system now. One last question hopefully (though I might pick your brain in PM's down the line) do you suggest going with one pump for each bucket or one for both? I'm deciding on which of these to get but I'm not sure which size I'd need since they're rated in how many gallons the "aquarium" holds instead of LPH, and depending on whether I go with one or two. Thoughts?

I have a tetra whisper like this one and a sponge filter like this one on my bedroom tank and I can't hear it.

Sure, sponge filters are great for fish that don't like flow in the tank. All you need is an air pump like this, some airline tube, and the actual sponge filter. The air stone pulls the water through the sponge. The sponge provides surface area for bacteria to grow on. Dead simple. Safe to use in any aquarium type I can think of. They're pretty simple to DIY together too, but they're so cheap, I don't see the point. Your LFS probably has them sitting in their tanks.

http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77848-Whisper-Pump-40-Gallon/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418973697&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+air+pump

http://www.amazon.com/Sleek-Airline-Tubing-25-Foot-Black/dp/B001D4XTUU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418973746&sr=8-2&keywords=air+tubing

http://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Distributor-Splitter-Diameter/dp/B00A0GOL6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418973765&sr=8-1&keywords=air+tubing+splitter

http://www.amazon.com/1-inch-Mineral-Release-Aquarium-Airstone/dp/B00CQGXBJ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418973776&sr=8-1&keywords=air+stone&pebp=1418973778694


All of those would combine to make one rig that could support up to 5 air stones.

The Pump pushes air through some of the tubing to the splitter, then the valves that are open (in this case 2) have air go through them and into more tubing. Then at the end of the tubing is the air stone that is in the tank and bubbles to provide oxygen for the fish.

Dood great idea! I got the medium size but my pregs molly died...and thought defeats the purpose of having it. I paid $5 for a tetra air pump.
[Tetra air pump. $4](Tetra Whisper Air Pump, For 20 to 40 Gallon Aquariums https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3C1VDbDXPN0S3)
[Marina breeding box. Only one that has to connect a flowing water to oxygenate.](Marina Hang-On Breeding Box, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QRDDJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ME1VDbJADGW00)

Don't bother buying a hang on back or something fancier, for just snails buy an air pump and a sponge filter. Definitely fill the tank all the way, and you'll want to do water changes every few weeks (maybe 10%) once the filter is in. Do you have any idea what kind the snails are, if not would you provide a picture.

Someone down the thread suggested a bare bottom tank, and I would recommend the opposite. With sand many snails will burrow and forage for food and what not. Also if you get a filter going, then the poop won't settle so much and will also degrade. That way you shouldn't need to clean the bottom, just change a bit of water every once in a while

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521640650&sr=8-5&keywords=aquarium+air+pump&dpPl=1&dpID=417Lgh1JmoL&ref=plSrch

And

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VAFGKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1521640748&sr=8-13&keywords=sponge+filter

Finally getting around to installing a CO2 system in my established, planted 45g community tank. The tank is mainly comprised of mosses, dwarf hair grass, tall hair grass, crypts, and a few java plants. I've had problems with black beard algae so I adjusted my light regimen and treated it with H2O2 until it was gone. Now I'm getting growths of green algae, so at this point I'm ready to install a DIY paintball CO2 system to combat the algae, so I can use my lights to their full potential, and to increase plant growth. The parts listed below are my starting point, let me know your thoughts...

Milwaukee MA957 Regulator

Adapter

CO2 Hose--Couldn't find a clear one in 3/16ID

Diffuser

Drop Checker

Check Valve

Timer

For a total of $141 before tax

What is your opinion on this setup?


Additionally I think my Aquaclear 110 is on its last leg so and I'm looking to convert to a canister filter (one that won't break the bank). Should I go with the SunSun HW304B or the SunSun HW704B

This is what I've got going on.

I bought this cap/hose system

This diffuser

You don't absolutely need a bubble counter but you could buy one if you want to be more precise. Also, the cap/hose thing allows for an easy and simple set up.

I got it off amazon

Rhinox Nano CO2 Diffuser - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058XWDFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E-N8BbVBCYAE0

I ordered this one. It didn't come with a suction cup, for one, which was a pain. Also, it only seemed to emit bubbles from a tiny portion of the surface area of the disc; one little corner was emitting bubbles while the rest were silent. I have had much better luck with the GLA atomic diffuser that I purchased.

Sure! I had started a thread here when I was buying my parts.

• CO2 Regulator
  
  
• 20oz CO2 Tank
  
  
• CO2 Diffuser

I am like you, and have done DIY until very recently. Spend the money. You won't regret the purchase. I was only slightly over 100 bucks on mine, but it was worth every penny to be rid of the hassle. The only issue with the valve I'll recommend is that you can't go over 1500 PSI even though the bottle I'll recommend is rated for 1800. Make sure to mention that when you get the bottle filled. The regulator is only rated at 1500. Here is what I bought.

CO2 Regulator
CO2 Tank
CO2 Diffuser

So yea, some tips. Don't fill tank over 1500 PSI. Make sure green knob is all the way in off position and it's not plugged in when you screw on the regulator. Screw on the regulator ALL THE WAY. Plug regulator in, slowly open the green knob. This assumes you have all the tubing hooked up. The bubble counter is super handy :) It only costs me 5 dollars to fill up the tank at Dicks sporting goods store. So after the upfront cost, I can run multiple tanks with a splitter off this, for a 5 dollar every few months fee. Totally worth it for the consistent bubbles and lack of hassle from DIY. If you get a timer, you can plug your regulator and light into it and you can control when the CO2 and light come on. You just need to trust us man, 130 bucks for this is worth it... so worth it. The bubble counter comes in the regulator I linked. The only things you'll need to buy other than what I posted for a 100% system is silicon tubing to link it all up, and maybe some suction cups. I didn't list this because that's a few dollars at most on Amazon. Don't listen to the 300 dollar crowd, my system is sub 150 and works just as well as theirs.

Would highly recommend a system.

Im gonna say its a filter like:

http://www.amazon.com/4-Stage-External-Canister-Sterilizer-Aquarium/dp/B00896IILA

I have one and it has the same intake and output rack...

I just got this bad boy the other day http://www.amazon.com/4-Stage-External-Canister-Sterilizer-Aquarium/dp/B00896IILA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415644309&sr=8-1&keywords=sunsun+303b

Its super quiet and pumps out a lot of water, has an (underpowered) uv light, a skimmer and you cant beat $37 for a canister filter.

what about this one?

http://www.amazon.com/4-Stage-External-Canister-Sterilizer-Aquarium/dp/B00896IILA

and since ive never used a canister filter before what else do i need to buy?

Get a bit more flow. Probably 2 smaller 300-400gph filters in that case. I have several of these I like a lot on a few different tanks. Never had an issue beyond a dirty impeller from several by the same manufacturer in several sizes. Have an original one from when the prime button was a lot smaller that works perfectly still 5 years later.

Believe it or not, the green water is helping keep your fish alive. Many pond keepers intentionally cultivate green water to reduce ammonia. I also see your setup relies heavily on an undergravel filter. That's really oldschool. One of these bad boys will do your tank a world of difference.

Running lightly planted shrimp and snail tank with 2 sponge filters. 1 has 2 med-sized sponges and the other as a single, large sponge. (note the difference in # of rings on the filters).

I think it would be fine once it's cycled. Bettas are naturally very aggressive, so don't expect your shrimp to live too long, especially without ANY cover whatsoever. Fair warning.

Okay this is easy then.

Don't use tap water for anything at all.

1. First we need to get your TDS down to where it should be.
   We are going to do what is called a water restart. You are going to empty the water (save 5 gallons of water in a bucket and put the little guy you have left in the bucket).
   
   You will have to purchase this product (http://www.hanaquatics.com/salty-shrimp-shrimp-mineral-gh-kh/)
   If you get 200g it will last you a lifetime.
   
   Once all the water is drained you will fill the RO/DI water into buckets and add the salty shrimp to RO/DI water until the TDS is between 200-250. Add this water to your tank. Now your tank should be between 200-250 TDS.
   
   Wait 24 hours with the filter running etc.
   
   Take a small bucket of water and drip acclimate your shrimp (see: https://youtu.be/ZSnJjTEjWyU).
   
   This is going to take a few hours. Every 30-45 mins make sure to take some water out of the bucket. Eventually the water in your bucket and the water in the tank will be within 20 TDS of each other. When the water in the bucket is close to the water in the tank you will be set to transfer the new shrimp into his home.
   
   
2. Top off water with RO/DI water. Dont worry about pH swings you will have enough kH in your water that it will be a non issue.
   
   
3. Neos are pretty hardy. You could probably go 3-4 weeks easy before you will need a water change depending on how much crap you add to your water. When your tank gets to 250-300 TDS (or 3-4 weeks depending on which happens first) it's time for a water change.
   
   
4. When doing a water change the end goal is to make sure the TDS will end up between 200-250 TDS. It's a little bit of a guessing game (since I hate sitting down and doing all the math) but lets say your tank is at 300 TDS. I would do a 20% water change and when I am adding new water to the tank I would add gh/kh+ to the new RO/DI water until the TDS was 120-150. Once I added that to the tank the tanks TDS should normalize to about where I want it.
   
   A few pointers about your tank:
   
   
5. You will want a new filter. From the picture I saw I would araid of shrimplets getting sucked up into the big cracks you have on the filter you have. I would suggest a small aquaclear and to purchase one of these (http://www.hanaquatics.com/ss-filter-guard/)
   
   
6. I would purchase a small air powered filter (http://www.amazon.com/XinYou-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-XY-2821/dp/B009V3UGDS) or (http://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78)
   
   The sponge filter will grow mincroorganisms that the shrimp love to eat. It will allow your shrimp to graze and be healthy at all times.
   
   I know this is a large wall of text but once you get the hang of it Neocardina are quite forgiving.
   
   NOTE: The salty Shrimp gh/kh is very concentrated so a little will go a long way.

Air pump Air line Filter

Sponge filters really are the best when it comes to shrimp tanks. I would only do a betta if you added a fish, but you also run the risk of the betta eating the shrimp. Ghost shrimp or neocaridina would be great.

For my 10g I bought this filter http://amzn.com/B009V3UGDS
I also have the valve pointed towards the glass of the aquarium so the surface isn't too turbid for my betta

I recommend getting the filters off amazon rather than an LFS, they're a bit marked up at all the LFS I've been to.

I have this one on my 5 gallon. The pump is pretty weak and doesn't run anywhere close to the gph it's advertised as, but that's good for a 5 gallon. And it's dirt cheap and comes with decent media. I'm happy with it.

This is what i use for my 10 gallon, i have sponge/ceramics and purigen in the order and the tanks has been pretty spotless. http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-603-Multi-Stage-Canister-Filter/dp/B00CC6SCJQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411240045&sr=8-1&keywords=sunsun+603

This one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC6SCJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MLYjzbTJ3RE5Y

If not, can you link me the correct one?

What's the best solution for protecting the shrimp from getting stuck in the filter?

Tech'n'Toy SunSun HW-603B 106 GPH 3-Stage External Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC6SCJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V0d0Cb8JN7CTV

That does make sense maybe they were talking as a regular pump for I don’t know how big of a tank.

It would be this one?
Tech'n'Toy SunSun HW-603B 106 GPH 3-Stage External Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC6SCJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3qy8CbXXXB22H

I’m running the sun sun 603B

Tech'n'Toy SunSun HW-603B 106 GPH... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC6SCJQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

It seems to work pretty well, i don’t have any fish in yet since i did a complete rescape and it’s still cycling

• GLA Atomic CO2 Bubble Counter - with Integrated Check Valve
  
• GLA Atomic CO2 Diffuser - Inline - 12/16mm
  
• TRANSPARENT GREEN CO2 RESISTANT TUBING
  
• SunSun HW-603B External Canister Filter
  
• Co2 Omnibus Regulator
  
• Hydra Aquatic CO2 Paintball Adapter
  
• Finnex Electronic Controller Aquarium Titanium Tube with Heater Guard
  
• NICREW LED Aquarium Light
  
  
  
  Here's a list of all the equipment for the tank. The paintball tank I bought from my local military surplus/paintball shop. Refills are $6. It's a pretty simple setup. I chose the inline diffuser to reduce clutter inside the tank. Plus, the co2 is absorbed into the water by the time it hits the tank. Here's a current (as of today) pic of 1 months growth http://i.imgur.com/KvyECwm.jpg

I use this cheap six-layer sponge filter and a Tetra Whisper air pump. There are several styles of sponge filter so it's really your preference. Round, corner, or with suction cups to stick on the side are all about the same and would be fine in a five gallon. I like the Tetra pumps because they're a good combination of cheap, quiet, and reliable. I've had the one I linked running 24/7 for over three years with no problem. You'll probably want to get a valve for the air line so you can adjust the air flow and a check valve if you put the pump lower than the aquarium.

Can anyone recommend which sponge filter I should get? Either this or this? One is $10 Canadian while the other is $5.

Anything labled for bettas is probably junk, or at very least heavily diluted. I use Seachem Prime, and it's usually cheaper than the aqueon brand while being less diluted. A small bottle would last you a very long time.

As for the filter, definitely get a new one. While a mossball helps, you would need far more plants to use up all of the fish's waste. I'd recommend a sponge filter for that size tank so that you don't have to worry about the outflow being too strong. They're incredibly low maintenance as well.

This pump

Tetra 77851 Whisper Air Pump, 10-Gallon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zKHNyb1F5JD7D

With this sponge

Jardin Fish Tank 6-Layer Sponge Biochemical Water Corner Filter, Black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT1XXJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cLHNyb6XMKG3Z

Would work very well for a 5 gallon.

I would bump the temperature up a bit since bettas do best from 76-82f

Definitely read up on what those numbers mean (not just the ideal range). I think that r/aquariums had a good guide in the sidebar, and Google is your best friend for fish research.

Edit (added link): http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f15/guide-to-starting-a-freshwater-aquarium-186089.html

As far as tankmates go, for a five gallon with a betta your options are limited to shrimp and snails. But you can still have plenty of fun with those!

Don't be afraid to ask questions!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J1ogAbB10K68A

Sponge filter with an air pump and a check valve. Cheap and easy. My local store uses them in every tank. If they will put hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of fish in tanks run by them then I trust it. It's what I swear by.

The medium which facilitates the nitrogen cycle, this known as a biofilter.

So you ether make a bio filter or use a sponge biofilter for aquariums.

https://youtu.be/Mx2vjF4Lgd4
https://www.amazon.com/BACTO-SURGE-HIGH-DENSITY-FOAM-FILTER/dp/B00GOFPX9I

How big is your tank? How many fish are in it?

For 2 or 3 fancy goldfish I'd recommend this size. (5 x 5 x 6 in).

Sorry, I thought you had said 10 gallon. Since you have a 29 gallon, I would get a sponge that is meant for at least 29 or 40 gallons.

Even in my 10 gallon bowl, I have this sponge because it's easy to hide behind the plants, and it only costs a few dollars more to get the bigger/better sponge. It should even work great for you. People on amazon are using it for their 40 gallon. I would get either this one or a corner sponge

https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Bacto-Surge-Density-Filter-Large/dp/B00GOFPX9I?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3

Set up for single Axolotls

Realistic initial start up cost $135
Excluding cost of axolotl

$5-$40 20g tank MINIMUM preferably 30g (offer up, let go, Facebook groups and pet stores)

$1-$70Hides - decor or caves or even home made must be water safe even pvc piping works minimum of 2 (decor can become expensive fast if you want to make your tank look very “pretty”)

$20-$30Filter - something with low current flow sponge filter or a canister filter with something to break up a strong flow if you have a sponge filter you need air line tubing and a air pump

Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oov7AbY5ESARC

Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kpv7AbQ20H9V7

Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hpv7AbC3Y8R2Z

$10-$15 Water additives
Water dechlorinator follow instructions on bottle if the tank isn’t fully cycled use prime plus follow instructions on bottle

API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1qv7AbHFPEHT5

Tetra 77960 SafeStart, 15-Gallon, 50-ml, 1.69-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E2RI74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tv7AbDHHEMEY

$20-$35 API water test kit to make sure the water is in good parameters
http://www.axolotl.org/requirements.htm

API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvv7AbK35G0WW

$2-$10 Aquarium thermometer that reads down to 60 degrees F

CNZ Digital LCD Thermometer for Aquarium Fish Tank Vivarium Reptile Terrarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPXVI94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yxv7Ab1NSQ5H6

$5-$20 Aquarium syphon

Aqueon Medium Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2aw7Ab3Z5KS9B

Feeding

$2.50-$3 Fishing earth worms (Walmart sporting goods section)
$10-$15 blister pack of 30 blood worm cubes (I can sell them to you while supplies last for $15 or you can buy them at any pet shop that sells fish)

Earth worms when they get bigger try to feed them nibbles of a worm like the size of their head and move up as they get bigger and frozen blood worms for first month to month and a half try to feed the earth worms to the axolotls ever couple days by hand until they start accepting them they might start accepting earth worms as soon as a week after receiving them from me (feed frozen blood worms every other day until they are regularly eating pieces of worm )

Maintenance

You can use a turkey baster and clean up their poops as you see them you’ll still have to do water changes but much less water 25%-35% or use a syphon once a week and do a 30%-50% water change along with the water dechlorinator and some of the safe start plus make sure to test the water regular with the api test kit

Keeping the water to the correct temperature

60-64F is the perfect water temp for them but it can be hard to achieve during summer but doing more regular water changes can help with that and putting a fan over the aquarium blowing on it will help by up to 4-5 degrees

NO SAND OR GRAVEL ESPECIALLY NO GRAVEL EVER sand maybe fine once they are 6-7inches but they will swallow it and they can become impacted and possibly lead to death

This size of sponge filter is fine if you're only keeping Bettas in the 20 gallon. Granted the ones I linked aren't "corner" filters, but at that size, the round base prevents the filter from sitting flush against the sides even for the corner cut sponges.

Corner cartridge filters in this size will also work.

It's not really gonna grow biobacteria on anything but the very surface of stuff with just the bubbler sitting in there.

Whether or not it will support enough bio-bacteria just on the surfaces of the tank is gonna depend on the size of your tank, how much you feed, how much you clean it, and how big your air pump is. You can't really know for sure without testing the water periodically after you remove the sponge filter since there's too many factors to take into account. It's possible it is enough, but nobody can accurately say for sure.

Could you try a corner filter like this instead? https://www.amazon.com/Corner-Filter-Aquarium-Internal-XY-2008/dp/B00HSCB9GC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500855910&sr=8-4&keywords=corner+filter+aquarium It works similar to the sponge filter but everything is enclosed in plastic so they can't eat it. I've used them with just gravel in them before. Or you could try to do similar with PVC pipe like u/VolkovME mentioned, but unless you already have PVC lying around it's probably cheaper/easier just to buy a corner filter.

I use the corner filter. You will need to get an airpump with it, but you should be able to adjust the flow with a valve in the tube.

Some people will add Seachem Purigen to the bottom layer below the sponges for more chemical filtration, but I personally don't. I have a 10 gallon, planted, low-tech tank and only use Purigen if I need to remove a medication. I use the Tetra Whisper airpump to drive the filter, and I dose my plants with Seachem Flourish Excel.

This is all you'll need along with an air pump and an air stone to get the bubbles smaller.

No filter means no flow. Stagnant water gets nasty. A sponge filter also provides a massive amount of surface area for beneficial bacteria, which keeps the tank healthy and deals with the waste created by the shrimp.

You'll notice that the YouTube "no filter" setups have an absolutely enormous amount of plants. An Iwugami setup (the kind with hardscape and a carpet and not much else) will never work without filtration as there aren't enough plants to deal with the waste.

You can get very tiny sponge filters super cheap on Amazon. I'm hoping that jar holds at least two gallons- if so, this one will work great. Yes, I know it claims it's for 10 gallons but it's super tiny- I have one just like that which I used in a 2-gallon tank.

If it's less than two gallons...I wouldn't even try keeping shrimp in it, TBH.

Aquatop Aquatic Supplies Classic Aqua Flow Sponge Aquarium Filter Up To 10 Gal CAF-10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYEO8H6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.dxRAbKA4FA04.

I have this one, works good and very small. Just need pump, tubing, and check valve.

This one is a little too huge for my tank (I have this: https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/fish/fish-aquariums-kits/aquariums-up-to-ten-gallons/imagitarium-pro-delux-freshwater-aquarium ). I think I am going to try out this aquatop filter instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HYEO8H6/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Thank you so much for the advice!

FYI I have a canister filter that looks exactly like that but branded as sunsun. Looks like the sunsun brand is cheaper