(Part 2) Best aquarium pumps & filters according to redditors
We found 4,472 Reddit comments discussing the best aquarium pumps & filters. We ranked the 1,019 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
I would replace the under-gravel filter altogether, with either a hang-on filter or a canister. In my experience they are at least 10 times more effective at filtering than a UGF and waaaaay easier to maintain. You need a good filtration unit for goldfish, because they are a bit messy. I would recommend getting a Hagen AquaClear 70 (or bigger, according to the size of your aquarium)
I never know if posts like these are troll posts or not. I'm assuming that by having to confidence to post a picture of your fish, you've at least browsed through other people's posts and seen the proper conditions that a betta fish should be kept in.
I'm really hoping that either this is a troll post, or that you just have no idea that the conditions you've kept your fish in are borderline inhumane. :/ He has horrible fin rot, and is missing the whole top part of his fins. Before you come back with "but he's been with us for FOUR years, he must be okay!" I can keep a dog in a closet for years with food and water and he'd probably live a long time too. Ever heard about that woman who was kidnapped and kept in confinement for 18 years? A being's conditions won't kill them immediately, but the stresses of their environments will cause them to lead miserable lives.
In case you care about him, he needs a few (super, SUPER easy) things.
The total cost of getting your friend an ideal setup is about $53. You'll notice a huge difference in the behavior of your betta, and he'll be much happier. I can't stress this enough; he is not happy, and your friend of 4 years deserves better. This post was NOT made in anger, but rather in concern for you and your fish. Please take this advice, and remember to cycle the tank!
It sounds like Swim Bladder Disorder, which, while alarming to see, is actually not life threatening in most cases. He will most likely heal on his own in time, if you give him a good suitable environment for him.
I recommend Seachem Prime as a water conditioner, it's the board favourite around here and the good thing about it is that it converts ammonia (produced from fish waste and anything else decomposing in the tank, is toxic to fish) into a harmless form for 24 hours. Since you do not have the Nitrogen cycle established in your tank, this property will be very useful in keeping your fish comfortable while the cycle gets started.
If you don't know what it is yet, please read this article about the Nitrogen Cycle and then this guide to Fish-in Cycling. This is not optional information in fishkeeping!
By the way, those fake plants you have--bettas have very delicate fins that are easily torn on the typical plastic aquarium plant; here we have something that's referred to as the "pantyhose test", which is basically what it sounds like--stretch a pair of pantyhose over your fingers, and run it over any tank decorations you have. If the decorations snag the pantyhose, they are rough/sharp enough to tear a betta's fins. For this reason, silk fabric plants are recommended for betta tanks over plastic plants. Make sure any hides you have for him don't have any holes small enough that he'd get stuck (I learned this one the hard way), bettas are curious fish and like to stick their heads in everything.
I posted this list of affordable but good tank supplies for someone else yesterday, so here you go:
Here is a list of affordable supplies:
Aqueon Quietflow Filter, $14. I replaced the filter cartridges inside this unit with ceramic filter media (gives nitrifying good bacteria a place to grow for biological filtration) and Seachem Purigen (absorbs organic waste) along with a good chunk of filter floss (way cheaper than buying filter pads) to make it more effective, but it's not strictly necessary if you're on a budget.
Hydor Theo Submersible Glass Heater, $20. This is my favourite heater, I've set up five tanks so far using this model. It heats up well, holds the temperature steady automatically, and it's adjustable, so if you ever need to turn up the temperature (sometimes needed to treat illness), you're all set.
Seachem Prime, $5
API Master Testing Kit, $19. This is extremely helpful to have when setting up your tank, so you can test the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels in your water. All three are toxic to fish in high quantities, in order of most to least bad.
If your betta is sulky or a picky eater, you can try tempting him with freeze-dried bloodworms (but feed very little, as they expand when they get wet and are super fattening) or soaking his pellets in garlic juice.
Edit: Also, yeah, do not feed him "generic" fish pellets. Bettas are carnivores and need to be fed as such. I suggest Hikari Bio-Gold betta pellets.
I used this uv sterilizer on my 29 planted and along with a big water change it cleared up very quickly.
Absolutely. DIY CO2 is ridiculously easy. I’m not that technically inclined so if I can do it anyone can. This may seem like a lot but it’s not as bad as it looks. I used to use the Fluval 88g CO2 system but it was ludicrously expensive to but the proprietary refill canisters. This setup is soooo cheap and completely reliable and produces ample CO2. I’m happy to tell you some pitfalls once you get it set up because it would be hard for you to follow me without having it in front of you.
DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o0JPDbTTNQCT0
Fluval 88g-CO2 Bubble Counter - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_40JPDb482G6RQ
Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-3JPDbJ43F4ZG
Milliard Citric Acid 5 Pound - 100% Pure Food Grade NON-GMO Project VERIFIED (5 Pound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EYFKNL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_34JPDb122FQKM
ARM & HAMMER Pure Baking Soda 8 oz (Pack of 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00860VYYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A5JPDb8FKP7NN
2 x normal 2 liter soda bottles
The major issues why this doesn't work well are:
----
There are actually small, reasonably priced and effective ones if you want to try it. You can order some direct, or you could probably just do something like take the powerhead off one of these and use it inline:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KP9B2W
The 0.7 gallon will likely kill him fairly quickly. I wouldn't hold off too long.
You can do a little bit to make what you've got a bit better. Consider daily water changes (using the conditioner and making sure to temperature match the incoming water). Also make sure to keep the cube at as warm and as stable a temperature as possible (fighters prefer 25-27 degrees C). Ultimately though there's not really much you can do with it (even with the extra work it's far from ideal). I'd recommend an upgrade ASAP.
If budget is a problem, you can use a plastic tub (clean, but without any residue from soap, etc. I recommend new tubs or ones that have been used to store clean, dry stuff (books, etc) only) as a tank. Filters can be had for dirt cheap (like this plus a $10 air pump from petsmart, etc). Heaters are an item you probably shouldn't cheap out on (I like these ones); because you really don't want a heater failure. That will give you a basic, livable situation from that you can then work on over time.
*edit: fixed link
Here is the same product for $3.92 plus free shipping on Amazon.
Always research something before buying, that "originally $9.95" is bs, as are all the original prices on that site....a site that was registered 2 weeks ago.
Plus this website is getting posted by some sketchy reddit user that uses multiple accounts to spam his youtube channel all day.
https://www.reddit.com/user/BestBeating
https://www.reddit.com/user/LunacyChillout
https://www.reddit.com/user/FalseLunacy
5.5 gallon tank from petco - 12 dollars (or if you can go today 10 gallon for 10 dollars plus tax)
Heater - 12 to 15 dollars (I like this one but there is also this one here)
Filter - 13 dollars to 25 dollars (It may need baffled or This one though it's a bit more expensive but I prefer it just remember a filter is just something to push water through it. Also can look into sponge filters)
Substrate - 0 for bare bottom or 10 dollars for some cheap sand at petco This sand to be exact.
Light - 42 dollars This is what I'd buy but you can find cheaper or just do grow lights in little plug ins
I'd keep at least 30 for plants but you can get some cheaper live plants or maybe find some cuttings for free.
Total is 47 dollars for a proper set up not including plants since I don't know what you can do in your area. With my over priced light for your set up it's 89
Seconded. I've had great results running a small UV sterilizer for a few days at a time as needed.
I was lugging water from the store with a couple of these: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Reliance-Aqua-Tainer-Water-Container-7-Gallon/872426
Got tired of that so I bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00204CQF6/
On brewday I collect water out of the carbon filter and cut that with R/O from a jug. Ratio depends on my grist bill but I usually don't need a full 7 Gallons of R/O, much less 14.
While I brew I refill the jug with R/O. Waste hose gets tossed around the garden. Jug is full again by cleanup. The little water hose even fits in the air vent hole on the jug.
Bing-bang-boom. $60 initial investment. Pays for itself (sans-water costs, but also sans gas costs filling the jugs) after 25 brews.
They're selling you a blackbox education package and some weirdo modular farm for $2500. You have no idea what you're getting in either. All I can tell you is this:
A 200 sq ft system (including everything) cannot feed 8 people. 1,100 lbs of vegetables and 400 lbs of tilapia won't feed 8 people, and that's what they claim their system makes. Average people eat 4.5-5 lbs of food in a day on average, meaning 1652-1825 lbs per year per human. A system that produces 1500 lbs won't even feed one person, but they say it right there:
>This one module will feed 8 people FOREVER
That's a lie. Even on their inflated estimates of how much food they produce, that's an outright lie.
Another thing I know: This system does not include fish tanks. Fish tanks are the most expensive part of every build I've ever done, and this system asks that you provide your own. This system does not include filtering tanks, either, which will run you another good bit of change. Potentially most importantly, This system does not include fish. Food-fish are hard to source, and you'll have to source your own.
And to add insult to injury, this system does not include grow medium or PVC. You are paying over a thousand dollars a unit at the the lowest prices (which you can only get at huge volumes, over 50 units) for grow beds, a patented water pump, two air pumps (for no reason, one air pump works just as well), two air stones, tubing, a patented electrical panel, worm castings, mineral dust, and a list of all the other shit you'll have to buy.
Let's price this out:
And the grand total is: $368 for everything they offer, minus the list of other things you'll have to buy.
Hope that list is worth $600+ in your mind.
Seriously though, just go watch all of Bright Agrotech's videos five or seven times apiece to get the science and then read here to figure out what kind of system you want. I just spent fifteen minutes and saved you over a thousand dollars setting up your system. Imagine what you can do in a couple hours.
This one hands down. Customizable with whatever media you want to filter with and you can control the flow.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0032G8TPW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&th=1
Welcome to a hobby that's as addictive as crack and sometimes more expensive.
The reason you want "surface skimming" is because proteins tend to build up into a film on the surface of the water. This film reduces oxygen exchange and can be harmful to small fish.
Good luck and let us know what you come up with.
EDIT: removed bad advice.
An airstone doesn't defuse co2 properly, it's very inefficient, I suggest grabbing a DIY co2 regulator, diffuser, and a bubble counter if you wish on amazon, should cost you twenty-five dollars or so, you'll see a huge difference.
DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJyuyb1E5K3FV
Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ULyuybPW9C6G2
Fluval 88g-CO2 Bubble Counter - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DKyuybDD5AXPX
Necessities
api liquid test kit
sponge filter
airline tubing for sponge filter
air pump for sponge filter
thermometer
fluval spec v kit. Comes with filter, decent light that can grow some lowlight plants, idk what else but I hear it's pretty good, I would look around on other sites to find it cheaper
dechlorinator if you don't already have it
heater, I happen to live somewhere where the temperature of my tank floats right in the bettas range, but if this isn't the case for you then you'll need a heater
You'll need something for a lid, can't find anything on amazon but you have a few options: going to a petstore and looking for a 5 gallon lid, going to other websites to look, or making a DIY lid, which can be done with greenhouse panels, or even wood if you don't mind cutting.
Substrate is optional, but if you want it you can either get pool filter sand, which you can find at your local Home Depot or lowes (assuming you're in the US), you'll have to rinse it first but it's really cheap, $8 for 50lb which is more than enough.
I would buy the tank in person at a store or on some site like Craigslist where you can find used tanks for cheap
Also, don't forget to cycle your tank, if you don't know what that is I would do some research on it, it's possibly the most important thing in keeping any aquatic creature
Off the top of my head, will continue to edit to add stuff
A 5 gallon bucket (free to $10), an aquarium air pump and airstone($2-20), MegaCrop one-part plant food 300g sampler ($7 shipped). It's about as simple and low-cost as it gets, just sharing the love for hydro (in case you change your mind someday).
Here's what you'll need:
Reverse osmosis filter. It won't be "distilled", it is a different process, but the result is the same: pure water.
I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DOG64FM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1463320260&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Reverse+osmosis+buddy&dpPl=1&dpID=41CF6VoMfQL&ref=plSrch
That filter alone will get you down to <10 ppm. If you want a true 0ppm add this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DSP57BQ/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0WBK1VWBQ66162AS1ET3
It isn't quick, it will take at least 12 hours to fill your barrel, but it works well.
Grab some of these: Generic Pre-Filter Sponge / Foam Set For Fluval Edge Aquarium (Pack Of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gXPEzb0ZD57XC
They just go onto the end of your filter intake and prevent any inverts/fry from getting sucked in. Doesn't really effect flow in my experience either. Sorry for your loss.
Before I answer your questions, I want you to know that getting more advanced meaning spending a lot more money and time. A lot us learn by making mistakes, and that's how I started, by making a lot of mistakes.
I don't know what level of planting you want to do. It can be as easy as adding a few amazon swords into your tank right now, or as difficult as buying new light, CO2 equipment, fertilizers, etc.
If you want to save a lot of money from mistakes then here is what you should do:
Looks great, good work. If you want to speed up growth, buy a small aquarium air pump, and a cheap airstone. They have a lot of combo's on amazon for under $15.
I too started because of Jeb, humorously enough and now I have 5 foot tall plants in my man cave. Grow for the stars.
Equipment: IMO aquaclears are the best HOB filter. Canister filters are a little more expensive and can be a little more difficult than HOBs at first as far as cleaning and setting up. However, they are superior to HOBs in most ways. Eheim and fluval make great canisters, then sunsun have been hit or miss from what I've heard.
I suggest getting two heaters, one on each side of the tank. That way if one fails your fish won't be fried or frozen.
Substrate: pool filter sand is easy and cheap, it can grow plants fine if you use root tabs. You can try the walstad method, which involves putting down a layer of organic potting soil then capping it with sand. It is cheap and very effective for growing plants if done right. The downfall is that it can be messy and its very very hard to rescape. Other options are plant substrates. Eco complete and flourite are two decent substrates for growing plants, moderately priced too. If you have extra money to spend then you can use some type of aquasoil. ADA, Mr. Aqua, ST are all high quality plant substrates, but again pricey.
Lighting: Finnex makes great LEDs for growing plants, a little expensive, but they are very good. For 20" height, the planted+ or original Fugeray should be fine without CO2 and not promote too much algae.
Plants: For plants, you probably won't be able to carpet dwarf baby tears without a strong LED and pressurized CO2. You can do a dwarf hair grass carpet, but it might go slowly without investing in a good light. aquaswap is a great place to buy plants. Butteredscrimp puts out a monthly sale and can help you assemble a plant package. I can vouch for him as being reliable. Just have to give him a price range, some details about your tank such as lighting and size, and some plants you like!
Decorations: Driftwood is a great way to fill space and make your tank feel a little more natural. Spider wood and manzanita are my favorite. Check your LFS to see if they have any pieces you like first. If not, there are several good places you can get driftwood online. Driftwood will release tannins (won't harm fish) into your tank when placed in water and might take a while to sink depending on the piece. I suggest putting it in while your tank is cycling.
You can also go with rocks/stones. They should be scrubbed under hot water before going into the tank. Some rocks can break down and affect your water chemistry. To test if they will you can do the vinegar test. Take the rock and add a few drops of vinegar or a stronger acid. If it fizzles or bubbles then it should not be placed in the tank because it can raise the pH of the water.
Fish: For shrimp amano shrimp are great, they eat hair algae and scavenge leftovers. They won't breed in freshwater though. Red cherry shrimp come in different grades (all very attractive) and are a relatively easy shrimp to keep, they will breed like crazy if provided an adequate environment The babies will be small and can/will be eaten by most fish.
For snails, nerite snails are regarded as some of the best algae eaters, won't reproduce in freshwater, and they are very cool looking. But female snails will leave unattractive, hard to remove, white eggs everywhere. You need a metal blade to scrape them off. u/gastropoid is your go to for snail info.
For a schooling fish you can go big or small. some of my favorite bigger schooling fish include congo tetras and bosemani rainbowfish. There are lots of other good sized rainbowfish if you decide to go that direction. Some popular small schooling fish include harlequin rasboras, neon tetras, cardinal tetras, and rummy nose tetras. Other tetras and rasboras will work too! Some rasboras are tiny though, maxing out at about 1 inch so those are a little less compatible usually. Barbs are another good schooling fish, but they can be nippy and semi-aggressive. Otocinclus are a schooling fish, but they are algae eaters and can be a little sensitive when brought into a new tank.
Fish I would avoid are common plecos, they get massive. And chinese/siamese algae eaters. They are fantastic algae eaters as juveniles, but they become aggressive when they grow up.
final thoughts: if you're going planted, look into EI dosing and root tabs, it will help plants thrive. You said you have experience with freshwater tanks so I assume you know about the nitrogen cycle and fishless cycling. If you don't there is a site under the helpful links tab at the top of the page. Look through the other links there too! great information. Visit plantedtank for more plant info, inspiration, and guides.
Good luck!
I’d advise using red slime remover. I’ve used it twice over the 5 years I’ve had my tank and it worked great both times.
First, do a water change and remove as much of it as possible that way.
Next, turn your lights off for the entire time you’re dosing your tank.
Dose in the morning and then it says to dose again after 48 hours if necessary. I’d highly advise doing the second dose even if you think your tank doesn’t need it. The first time I did it I only did the first dose and the red slime started to come back not too long after I did it so I had to do it again with both doses.
A few other things:
-Make sure your protein skimmer if turned OFF the whole time!
-I’d also advise using an air pump to pump oxygen into your tank while dosing. I put the tube that’s connected to the pump right under my return pump so it pumps it through my returns.
-Once you’re done with everything, you’ll need to do a couple water changes before your skimmer doesn’t bubble like crazy.
Red Slime Remover—https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ultralife-red-slime-remover.html
Air pump—Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R2ivDbNV8C4C0
Feel free to ask me if you have any other questions
Unless I am mistaken, they are Marina Power S10s.
They are cheap and awesome. LINK
I think this is the link you are looking for ;)
http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Koralia-Nano-Aquarium-Circulation/dp/B0036S4YZ0/ref=pd_sbs_petsupplies_4?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=10Q44DM2NSTGH8JADMNP
10 gal is fine. I started my first SW tank a couple months ago and I got a 6 gal. Now, you will have to have to have live rock. Without it, it will be nearly impossible to have a stable tank. I suggest you get around 15 pounds. Get all the live rock you plan to have in you tank at once so your parameters don't get an ammonia spike if you have a fish inside. Aragonite sand should be fine. I would stay FOWLR (fish only with live rock) because corals are much harder. The cycle is also very similar. Set up your tank, add sand, fill with a few inches of water, add rocks and aquascape, fill up with water, add a deli shrimp, and you should be good to go. You will need some salt, a hydrometer, a good reliable heater, some lighting, a power head and test kit. And also a filter.
This is what I would get
http://amzn.com/B000260FUM
I would put the bio rings and carbon aside and replace with this,
http://amzn.com/B0002A5VK2
http://amzn.com/B004PBD4J4
Add the matrix when you start cycling, then add the purigen when you are getting fish. The reviews are speaking for the product. Purigen is simply a godsend
http://amzn.com/B00019JOSO
Go for a refractometer if you can afford it but this works fine for me as long as I tap it an there are no bubbles.
http://amzn.com/B001EUE808
The test kit.
http://amzn.com/B0036S4YZ0
This powerhead should do fine in a 10 gallon.
http://amzn.com/B003M7P9YU
This is one of the best most reliable heaters on the market. Many will fail and bake your tank but not the jagar.
http://amzn.com/B003EE5GUS
These make life a whole lot easier BN testing water or adding things like calcium. You get 10 so they should def last a while.
http://amzn.com/B008SJ1H7A
Get like 5 of these. They are extremely accurate and last around 3 months each. Wrap the wire around the tank and have one on at all times. They also help when doing water changes. You should also pick up an extra heater for water changes, via aqua and aqua top have good ones. These are made in china and sent out to companies like coralife to be package and sold for like 10 dollars, see
http://amzn.com/B0002DI4TO
Now, this is the salt I use for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B0002DJU0G
This should last you a year or two and is way cheaper then continually buying salt. I personally use tap water that has been heavily decholinated with this,
http://amzn.com/B00176CVK8
You should get your tap water tested for copper which can kill invertebrates. A 5 gallon bucket is really useful as is this siphon for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B002LL8BWU
This net is really fine and will catch most tiny debris
http://amzn.com/B008HPOCUE
You will probably find it cheaper in a store. I leave it in front of my powerhead for a hour or two every couple to days to catch debris and waste.
These tweezers help for when you don't want to get your hands wet.
http://amzn.com/B001CWDSYA
But they do start rusting after a lot of
use.
http://amzn.com/B0002E7ITK
This has been the best fish food in my experience but all fish should be fed a varied diet. This is a good staple and should be substituted with brine shrimp, mysis shrimp (frozen) and seaweed.
Not everything here is necessary, I'm just telling you what helped me make the jump to saltwater.
Here are some pics of my tank:
http://imgur.com/p3PP7X7
http://imgur.com/9kUaq1g
http://imgur.com/wtUfCb5
http://imgur.com/yl82GRn
One last thing, in a tank that size, draw a small line where you want you water level to be, when it goes below that due to evaporation, top off water. Test your salinity often in that tank. I use seachem marine buffer to deal with pH issues but chemicals and buffets should be avoided.
This video has some great advice. I used it when I got my DIY system set up. I purchased a kit from amazon for around $15. Totally worth it so far. Citric acid and baking soda lasts two weeks (when I'm doing it correctly) and I've had great growth so far. Be sure to also pick up a bubble counter and diffuser. Baking soda is easily found at any store with groceries, I had to order citric acid online because my Cub foods didn't have any. Overall the system is totally worth it for around $25.
If you're looking to swap with someone here or buy you could add your zipcode since this is the swap reddit. And you can also ask this type of info on the r/Aquariums reddit.... but since i saw your question, I have a few 5 gal and I like the Cobalt Aquatics 25 watt heaters because you can change the temperature as opposed to a preset, but they are a little expensive (to me at least).
Since I was on a tight budget, I bought the Topfin setup and hated it. The filter stopped working after a month, I returned it and they let me exchange it for an Aqueon Quietflow 10. You can sub in small media like Matrix or I really like ChemiBlue Nano but it removes tannins. If you take the hood off, the light goes with it so you can't see in the tank. I'd skip it and get a glass lid. It didn't come with a heater I don't remember. So, I've also used the Aqueon 50 watt presets, but sort of depends on ambient room temp (mine's on an outside wall, so fine for shrimp, not for fish as much). Amazon, Drs Foster and Smith, and Chewy all have cheaper prices than the big box stores unless you catch a sale. Drs F & S also have the glass lids for the tanks (Marine land for TopFin tanks and VersaTop for Aqueon tanks). This cheap little light is perfect for a 5 gal and bright too, and only $10. Aqueon Quietflow 10 is only $16 on Amazon. I used Petco Sand for $5/bag you can mix with your gravel. And used API root tabs. Great cheap driftwood and I did the research reading the bad comments lol. Perfect for nano tanks.
I use this system and seems to work very well for my purposes for the price.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ro%2Bbuddie&qid=1556424308&s=gateway&sr=8-2&th=1
Welcome to Betta keeping! Get ready to be addicted. No tank is too big IMO, you want your guy to have plenty of room. I would go with 8 gallons if you have room for it.
If you go with 8 gallons, this looks good and seems to be well reviewed. The 50-watt version.
Again, if you decide on 8 gallons, I would go with this. It comes with cartridges that don't need to be changed nearly as often as it says on the box. I generally only change my cartridges when they start to get really scummy; they house bacteria that is beneficial to your tank.
Bettas also like caves, hiding places and plants. A floating bunch of anacharis will eat up ammonia and give your fish a place to rest. Java fern also does well in a low-light environment.
You'll need to change the water once a week, and make sure to add water conditioner each time. This is my favorite brand.
Any other questions, feel free to PM me. Happy fish keeping!
If you consider trying a filter again- I have had great success with this filter, while also using a home-made baffle cut out of a water bottle.
So! I read through both of the care sheets that someone recommended and saw that they do not cover specific equipment. I'll give you a list of items for a split 10 gallon setup that I highly recommend to beginners; 10 gallon tank with hood, 10 gallon tank divider, Eheim Jager 50W fully adjustable/submersible heater, the safest on the market, TWO of these Azoo Mignon 150 (5 gallon capacity) fountain-style [filters] (http://www.amazon.com/Azoo-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2) (One for each side of the tank as you'll want to run them on their lowest flow strength in order to avoid disturbing the fish, not to mention that the divider does not support good water flow between the two sides). This hardware setup should cost a bit over $100. I know it may sound pricey at first but it will be well worth it for happy, healthy bettas. Here's my male elephant ear, Beau!
Tank I picked up at my local store 'Aquarium Zen', 5 gallon shallow: http://ultumnaturesystems.com/rimless-glass-tanks/
Filter: Azoo Mignon Filter 150 Power Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006KY1MF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W17TDb1JA1CJ3
Light: ONF Flat Nano Plus, The Smart Aquarium LED Light, for 2~7gallon Fish Tank, App Controlled, Colorfull LED, Full Spectrum, 15-Watt, 1300 LM, 7000K, One Year Warranty. (Flat Nano+) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WRJ565N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I27TDbV9HCN9Q
$30 for a 3 stage canister filter, rated for 70g: http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22/ref=sr_1_69?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371902926&amp;sr=1-69&amp;keywords=canister
Sorry your NatGeo ones keep breaking. :( This is the filter I have, SunSun HW-302
I know it's the "cheaper" brand, but mine has been running since September 2013 and I haven't had any problems with it. It still runs quiet, doesn't leak, and simple to assemble. My only complaint was that the instructions that it came with were not for the model I bought, so I had to find a YouTube video to figure it out because it was my first canister filter, haha
I really really like this little bitty HOB for sub 5gal tanks.
I always swap out the stock filter cartridge with just a chunk of aquarium sponge and some biomedia. It's quiet, adjustable flow, and has a REALLY tiny footprint inside the tank. I own that same tank, and it fits fine in the precut out spot on the lid too.
the stock light isn't going to do much for your plants, but if its close enoug your bonsai light might be OK, you'd just kinda have to try it out.
Its a decent looking little tank, fine for a shrimp tank or betta.
Yes, $99 per household is "insanely expensive".
I'm very likely to end up overrun by shrimp shortly. Feed em veggies, make sure you have filter intake sponges, and they'll multiply. It's somewhat of a lottery on what you'll get though as far as quality of color. It doesn't help that I started with lower grade shrimp, but the other ones can get crazy expensive.
Between the shrimp and my BN pleco they can easily polish off a chunk of zucchini in a day.
Get yourself a filter intake sponge asap. If that is an aquaclear hang on back filter, they are excellent filters but that intake is the perfect long-fin suction trap.
I really love my SunSun It's not an expensive brand name, but it works like a dream!
Just a quick tip, if you put a word in brackets [like this] and then the link (in parenthesis) with no spaces, you get a cleaner looking link
But im with you on the sponge filter. Thinking of setting up a nano for work and still trying to decide how much to spend.
I would sanitize tank with 1:10 dilution of the unscented bleach, see sterilizing aquarium for procedure for it. Overnight, with a lot of rinsing and dechlorinating after.
What actually needs to be done:
Expenses involved: water, dechlorinator, test kits (I really don't know how to cycle without them, you could ask at betta Fish subreddit): API ammonia, NO2, NO3, preferably GH/KH test too. Plants are most expensive part, unless you can get them from someone leaving hobby and most of aquarists have an excess of plants, they have to discard. Even fish could be got from rehoming at classifieds or from Free section at Craigslist. Substrate: I'm keeping mine without it, with no rooted plants. Low light tank needs no fertilizer. Air pump make some noise, other than I named could make a lot of noise. Lights: either get for free from someone, buy aquarium lights, or use either short shoplight form hardware store or two desktop lamps with daylight CFL or LED for desktop lamps. Hose (vinyl tubing from Lowes or HD) and bucket, some sponge for glass cleaning for water changes. If substrate, gravel vacuum will be necessary, or a cut off bottle at the end of a hose. Food for fish or shrimp at least 2-3 varieties, different brands, pellets, not flakes. Possibly medications, more chances to avoid them by keeping fish in suitable for it conditions, fed and clean.
It seems that this is all.
It depends on you personal preferences;
I really like sponge filters and internal filters since they fit in nearly every tank. Sponge filters are cheap and really gentle, but they do make a bit of noise. Internal filters have more flow, but are (in my experience) very silent. You can easily baffle them by placing some sponge over the spray bar.
Also I recommend getting a 10g since they are probably cheaper and more stable since you have a larger volume of water. And stable water means a higher survival rate of your shrimp.
For example here:
10 Gallon tank for 14,99 http://www.petsmart.com/fish/supplies/aquariums-and-stands/aquariums/grreat-choice-10-gallon-glass-aquarium-2831264.html
A double sponge filter which is good for twice the aquarium volume (cleaner water double sponge is double bacteria). for 3,99
https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478978662&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=sponge+filter
An air pump for 5,59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_sim_199_5?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2
25 feet tubing 3.23
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002563MW/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2
14,49 for a heater
https://www.amazon.com/Submersible-Aquarium-Heater-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B017UK0ZUW/ref=sr_1_25?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478978931&amp;sr=1-25-spons&amp;keywords=10+g+heater&amp;psc=1
That's twice the size for 42,40. You will only need to buy a light and those can be as cheap or expensive as you want but this not required and purely aesthetic again.
I use this in my ten gallon and a supplemental filtration in my 40. The sponges are great, just tug them off and rinse them out without disturbing anything else. A pump and airline is all you should need.
This filter is slightly nicer and cheaper at $16. It's great for bettas because it has an adjustable flow and it's rated for up to 30 gallons. You can also adjust the length of the intake which makes it suitable for smaller tanks. Lots of room on the inside for bio-media too.
Theoretically anything could work with enough water changes:) But a small Hang On Back or a sponge filter w an air pump will cost less than $20 and then you could just do 25% per week water changes. With no filter your margin for error is very low, if one fish dies and you don't find it for a day it could create an ammonia spike that kills the whole tank.
Yea, I recently through a sunsun 302 on my 20 long, because why not they are only $40. link for OP This seller has 20 and if you buy a couple he may give to a deal on shipping.
Sunsun HW-302 Theyre amazing
This should do nicely:
https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22
If you don't want to go the canister filter method (which I highly recommend) I would go with an aquaclear. They're much better than these, and you can put whatever media you want in there so it's much more versatile than these. I had the penguin 350 and it's ok, but an aquaclear 110 would be your best bet. It's more expensive than these but far far far far better.
http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-110-Aquarium-Power-Filter/dp/B000260FV6
However, like I said, canister is the way to go. I use one of these on my tank and it's amazing. I used to use ehiems, but these are much cheaper and work just as well http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426534978&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=sunsun+canister+filter
Highly recommend the SunSun HW-302. Mine has run dry for hours multiple times because of power outages, etc., and it still runs great. I bought a second one because I thought my first one finally died but then it came back to life.
I would recommend this ,Its a bit more than $10 but honestly its cheap in terms of nice filters. I would recommend taking out the cartridge and adding your own biomedia. Its very cheap at pet stores, like $2-3 and then get a little bag to put it in which will be 99¢ or less.
For the far side, a few options:
---
for the middle one: https://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Stone-Sponge-Filter/dp/B008FLWY5U/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467385522&amp;sr=8-29&amp;keywords=sponge+filter+jardin
should be more than enough, get the 99c control valves or a 'hub' to dial in the airflow to each. (cheapest in box stores or walmart)
Does the windowsill not overheat the jar? If you plan on adding the Betta, I'd worry about heat fluctuation in the jar without a heater and being near a window. Also, I'd look into a filter, I used this one for a 1 gallon Jar.
Filter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I think this is something I can actually help with. Yay.
I got the Top Fin 5.5 gallon setup. It came with a 10 gallon filter. This was WAY too much for my betta. I looked into baffles, and compared the prices. I ended up getting this filter as it's only $15 for a non-ugly setup. It has adjustable flow. I set it to the minimum and now my betta is super happy.
As far as the heater goes, does it have adjustable temperature? I got the National Geographic 80 degree one. We keep our apartment at 72 degrees, and his tank stays around 78 degrees.
The lighting goes... I asked previously and I didn't get any responses. I try to keep the window open so the plants can get some natural light. It's been about a month and no plants are dead/dying but time will tell.
I use a ro filter for water. It's alot cheaper in the long run.
I personally use this one:
Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 100-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG64FM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6TdWAb9MTMA6Y
Indeed! I love your set up haha very creative with the decors placement.
Ohhh and a few things to add for a betta tank:
You should grab a sponge like these ones and slip it on the inflow. It will reduce the current and prevents your fish from getting sucked in.
Does the heater come with the kit? is it submersible?
I bought a 12 pack of the generics and they seem just as good as the Fluval Edge brand.
I can mail you one free if you need it for your tank. Just PM me.
I'm going to preface this by saying I am a fish breeder with multiple sponge, HOB & canister filters. That includes both the eheim classic canisters and the fluval canisters.
In my opinion, fluval's non-fx line has the worst price to performance out of any canister filter. You overpay for how much filtration you get. Some of the features (like the 'flow control') are useless as you always want it maxed. The hose removal system is pretty decent, but even the cheap sunsun canisters have that.
Personally, if I were in your shoes, I'd buy 2 of these. $185.96 and you will need to buy some media of your choice as well.
When it comes to goldfish especially, pumping as much water through your media as possible is key, and this would give you redundancy to only have to clean one filter at a time while the other remains undisturbed.
I have noticed you're considering an FX4 as well. That's definitely better than the 406, and if you can get it discounted deeply enough it will be a great filter.
SunSun 304
I love these filters they have proven very reliable for me, I would recommend to not let the tubes hang any lower than they need to be because it'll put stress on the locking mechanism. There are two little plastic ledges of sorts that broke off my last 304, with my new one I removed the slack so now there's no stress on it.
I have the predecessor to this filter on a 55 gallon with African clawed frogs and a goldfish it works really well. Since you have a slightly larger tank it might be a good idea to add either another canister or an aquaclear HOB. Personally I would add an aquaclear 70 or 110
Had someone ask for an inventory list and thought I'd post it up here for visibility.
Coralife Biocube 14 - $199
Lighting System - $141
Filtration System - $122
Arline System - $32
Decor - $140
Flora - $114
Fauna - $46
Tools - $12
I recommend this one make sure you get the large version that has the double sponges. Then you just connect an air pump with some airline tubing
The Whisper 40 is the quietest air pump I've tested with a sound meter.
I use a mix of soil and aeroponics. With aeroponics, I use 5 gallon buckets supported on thick, folded towels to keep the noise isolated from the floor. The water pump cycling (3 seconds on/90 seconds off) creates much more noise than an air pump.
The air flow on the tetra whisper 10g is pretty low, I'd get a stronger pump and an airline splitter. I have a tetra whisper 40g I got for about 8 dollars on amazon that runs a big sponge filter and (with a splitter) 2 additional airstones that I use to aerate my tap water jug to help gas off. The good thing about the splitters is if the pump is too strong you can use the valve to lessen airflow, or make 1 thing strong flow and 2 things light flow etc.
It's a 115V Whisper 3i filter. The air pump connects to the bottom of the intake, so the bubbles push the water up through the filter chamber.
Edit: found the link. http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-In-Tank-Filter-3-Gallon/dp/B000HHQ712
Looking at a picture of the filter housing, what you took a picture is the bottom of the impeller housing. So you would want to unplug it and look and see if the impeller is damaged or something is preventing it from turning.
If you can't get it to work, and you use Amazon, get one of these guys http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06080-QuietFlow-Filter-100GPH/dp/B000SP65N8/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398060693&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=quietflow or alternative the quietflow 20 for a little bigger filter.
Well it seems like you're in a situation that is (unfortunately) one of the most common: The formal term is I'm-doing-everything-right-and-none-of-the-symptoms-are-very-diagnostic-wtf-is-going-on.
TL;DR - Get a UV filter, run it for a week before the new fish arrive, once you start to see babies wait two weeks and then remove the UV filter.
Long answer:
The cory death isn't too helpful (in terms of providing information) simply because about 10% of fish from the pet store seem to die no matter what anyone does. In fact, your survival rates are pretty good a year after the purchase date. You tank set-up looks about as good as it could possibly be, so I can't imagine the environment is unusually stressful either. I forgot to ask how big the tank was, but I'm going to guess its 20-30 gallons based on the filter you're running. This should be fine for guppies and their tankmates.
Although there's no clear diagnostic information about what happened, I've found that almost anything disease related is mitigated with a UV filter. My suggestion is to try using one of these to soften the process of adaptation to your tanks. I use these, but since you have an external filter, you might prefer to use an in-line UV filter like this one. I've found that the first one works good enough for up to 30 gallons (although even 30 gallons is pushing it a little), but I haven't tried the second one and have no idea how well it works. I just randomly found it on Amazon and only link it as an example. You'd be wise to do some homework about whatever model you decide to get because they aren't cheap. (Protip: Remember to use fakespot before you buy anything on Amazon! Aquarium stuff is especially prone to lies and general fuckery from manufacturers).
The PROS:
The CONS:
Here's what I did when I was in a similar situation. Perhaps you can have the same luck I did: A while back I ordered some endlers, introduced them to my community tank, and they all promptly died. My assumption was that the pathogens in my tanks kicked their asses, partly because they were ordered from a completely different area in the US. I decided to try again, but this time I was obviously very concerned about how well they would adapt to the pathogens endemic to my current tanks. So I started running a UV filter about a week before I planned to add them to my community tanks (A week seemed like enough time to drive the pathogen load down). I added the endlers to the tanks and kept the UV filters running until about two weeks after I saw the first endler babies born in each tank, so about a month after adding the endlers. Then, I removed the filters and crossed my fingers. Fortunately, the spike in pathogen load that surely came after removing the UV filters didn't seem to affect the endlers at all. As far as I'm able to tell, the UV filters gave them a chance to form a robust immune response. That was about a year ago and today my biggest problem is the booming population, but that's another post ;).
EDIT; I should add that I would try a UV filter first partly because you'll need to start considering more drastic stuff at some point (e.g., chemicals) and since there's no easy way to know exactly what's killing the guppies, you'll probably need to use trial-and-error. As many of us learned long ago, the trial-and-error approach to treating disease in the aquarium is almost always a complete shit-show. Its expensive and in many cases you just end up harming the healthy inhabitants without actually solving your problem.
I struggled with green water after a tea tree treatment for cotton mouth. I had that damn green water for more than 6 weeks to the point where I couldn’t even see the fish anymore.
I bought a UV water sterilizer and it took a little more than a week but it made my water crystal clear again.
Before and after
https://imgur.com/a/qePCiq2
This is the one I bought
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001KP9B2W/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525277655&amp;sr=1
$60 RO/DI
I prefer to have a devoted tap for RO, rather than hooking it up to a pre-existing faucet. For this installation method, I tap a cold water line with a saddle valve. The linked kit provides plenty of tubing to run to the installation site. I mounted the RO/DI inside my bathroom sink cabinet. This allows me to fill my sprayer in the bathtub, so I don't have to worry about it flooding if I lose track of it. Doesn't hurt to install a backflush (consider that picture a 'blueprint'). THIS kit has the two 'Y's and 2 ball valves you'd need. One ball valve to control flow into the RO/DI (effectively your ON/OFF switch); 2 'Y's and a ball valve to plumb a backflush in at your flow restrictor.
$81 for the RO/DI and associated plumbing to build a devoted fill station. A single light costs more than that. Your water bill will go up, but you don't have to break the bank to have RO/DI water on tap in your home. It's easy. It's cheap. It has a host of benefits. I don't see why more people don't do it.
I've got the 'ON/OFF' ball valve right above my bathroom sink. When I need to make water, I run my waste line down the bathtub drain, put the clean line into my sprayer, and open the ball valve. Nice and simple. No hassles.
Edit: If you don't already have them, you'll want a drill and ~1/2" drill bit to run holes in your wall/bathroom cabinet for your water lines. Maybe brings you over $100, if you don't already have those tools.
https://www.amazon.ca/Aquatic-Reverse-Changing-Deionization-Cartridge/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=ro+buddy&amp;qid=1568604855&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
I guess I lied, I paid $106 Canadian. I bought it on sale, which it currently appears to be listed at. Works great but produces tons of waste water, I would guess the numbers are something gross like 4L waste for 1L R/O.
Yes, there are ~$50 systems that just connect to your sink while you use it, then you disconnect it and put it away when done. That 30 gallons / day is a speed btw. So it will only make ~1 gallon an hour.
I use one I bought from my LFS for about $75 that does 100 gallons per day, or 4 gallons an hour.
I believe the RO buddie is the one that gets recommended here.
If you can afford it I HIGHLY recommend this pump for dwc
https://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-728450-Single-Outlet-Commercial/dp/B002JLJC0W/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485748465&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=air+pump
Here's my air pump just bought a new one yesterday as the old was getting weak after a year.
Here's my build with all the info
And yes, I use rDWC, and have it from seedling through finish.
Do you have a walmart by you? They sell empty 10 gallon tanks for 14.99 regularly priced. You could order from the website to store, too.
https://www.walmart.com/browse/pets/10-gallon-aquariums/5440_202074_8218041
I like these cheap filters I got off of Amazon that have an adjustable flow. They're 13.99 each.
https://www.amazon.com/Marina-A285-S10-Power-Filter/dp/B0032G8TPW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522288540&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=marina+s10+filter
Then you'd only need one more heater, and if you keep the water level low enough in the 10 gallons you shouldn't have any issue with jumping until you can get hoods and lights, and even if you kept the water level really low it'd be way better than what they have now.
Bleu has been happily living on my desk in my home office for about 2 weeks, the tank has been setup for about a month. He's currently the only inhabitant and I will likely be adding a few striped khuli loaches or some shrimp in the near future I haven't decied which direction to go yet. I also am trying to track down some floating plants but haven't had any luck at my LFS or Petsmart, I might check Petco in a larger city this weekend that's about an hour away or some LFS in that area.
Equipment:
10 Gallon tank from Petco $1/gallon sale
Aqueon 06105 Pro Heaters Submersible Aquarium Heater, 50-Watt
Marina Stainless Steel Thermometer
Perfecto Manufacturing APF33200 Glass Canopy Aquarium, 20-Inch
Marineland Single Bright LED Lighting System 18-24-Inch
Quantity 2 Marina S10 Power Filter
Penn Plax Hide-Away Stackable Stone Aquarium Ornament
Natural sand substrate
1 Java Fern
1 Wisteria (I think...)
I'm going to move the Java Fern today I read last night you aren't supposed to bury the Rhizome so I need to get it attached to a rock or piece of drift wood. I think a decent size piece of drift wood would help the barren look as well on the right until I can get some additional plants. The tank itself has been doing great the filters are very low current which is perfect for Bleu. I've been using the API freshwater master test kit to keep an eye on things and doing about a 25% water change every two weeks.
I did this and I was scared to death I was going to ruin the tank, but the project went well and I'm really happy with the results.
Pic of tank now: https://imgur.com/DBmerHY - Filter and Light I used.
one of the best setups I've ever seen had roughly 5-6 500+gallon tanks.. beautifully colored and amazing corals. The guy sells them and grows them for research.
I asked him what lighting he was using.. expecting him to say some god awefully expensive lights.
He told me to buy this granted, the auction is done, but search the same thing... its very affordable and very powerful.
I did not have room to hang it from above, so I opted to get THIS instead. It works pretty awesome. everything is growing nicely, but if I were to do it again, maybe a more powerful one.
also, having bought about 5 different circulation pumps for my 20g. some loud, some suck, some are huge.. don't waste your time, just go for this I found it to be the best.. super quiet and magnetic
I run this set up on all of my < 10 gal tanks:
regulator with solenoid
co2 tank
adapter
diffuser
drop checker
Add to that any tubing rated for co2 and you’re good to go
From his previous posts:
alright!
So after many months of planning and figuring out what i waned to do, I finally decide to bite the bullet and get into the planted tank hobby (I kept ranchus before this).
If you guys have any tips or anything advice that would help me out much appreciation!
For right now I am waiting for the drawf hairgrass carpet to grow out, and my piece of wood to become waterlogged so it doesn't float.
I tied down java moss so the wood looks like a tree.
Dont judge me, I know its hella cliche, but i think it would look good.
I am replacing the HOB with a canister filther (Finnex px-360) and using lily glass pipes for my intake and output, so i can achieve that more minimalistic vibe.
For those wondering my CO2 set up, I am using [this] (https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/archaea-co2-regulator-pro-single-gauge-fits-cga-320), so far its pretty good. It has the adapter so i can connect to a 5lb paint ball co2 canister. I have it connected to a timer, so its pretty hands free system.
The only thing I want to change is my CO2 diffuser, its good for its price point(only 10.99). But I feel like if I spend a little more I could get something better.
If you guys want links to what I have bought:
CO2 regulator
Glass lily pipes (still havent arrived so I dont know if they are good, I have heard mixed reviews about it)
CO2 Indicator
Canister filter
Tank
And all the plants i got from aqua forrest in SF
alright!
So after many months of planning and figuring out what i waned to do, I finally decide to bite the bullet and get into the planted tank hobby (I kept ranchus before this).
If you guys have any tips or anything advice that would help me out much appreciation!
For right now I am waiting for the drawf hairgrass carpet to grow out, and my piece of wood to become waterlogged so it doesn't float.
I tied down java moss so the wood looks like a tree.
Dont judge me, I know its hella cliche, but i think it would look good.
I am replacing the HOB with a canister filther (Finnex px-360) and using lily glass pipes for my intake and output, so i can achieve that more minimalistic vibe.
For those wondering my CO2 set up, I am using [this] (https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/archaea-co2-regulator-pro-single-gauge-fits-cga-320), so far its pretty good. It has the adapter so i can connect to a 5lb paint ball co2 canister. I have it connected to a timer, so its pretty hands free system.
The only thing I want to change is my CO2 diffuser, its good for its price point(only 10.99). But I feel like if I spend a little more I could get something better.
If you guys want links to what I have bought:
CO2 regulator
Glass lily pipes (still havent arrived so I dont know if they are good, I have heard mixed reviews about it)
CO2 Indicator
Canister filter
Tank
And all the plants i got from aqua forrest in SF
Amazon has a bunch of different brands, types, etc.
Glass Drop Checker Kit –- with pre-Mixed 4dKH & pH Reagent - 3-Minutes' Setup - 3 Seconds to Read Result - Fastest Way to Ensure Sufficient Co2 in Planted Aquarium - Color Change Reflects CO2 Level https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OB7PCbV4AS2S7
Well, at a certain size people start recommending a sump/refugium. A sump of 20 gallons is a so much more capacity for filtration than a HOB could ever be. But they are more difficult to setup.
If I were going to use a HOB for a tank that large, I might just use two of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUW/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_m8Ovxb3MWMDGV
"But why?" you might ask. Two reasons. First it meets the capacity requirements in excess of 40 gallons and better circulates the tank. Second it provides redundancy in case one filter goes down. Another filter you might look at is sponge filters for power outages. Can be used on a battery operated pump and simple to use
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_YaPvxbRNYX7J2
You might go the route of canister filter.
This actually doesn't meet the requirements of circulating your total volume ten times in an hour, so be aware of that. A 100 gallon tank might use two of these. Again redundancy is a beautiful thing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015JMQRNC/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_QdPvxbAH4274M
If you're excluding live/dry rock 500$ is enough to get you an okay start into the hobby. Lighting will probably be your most expensive piece of hardware and there are some really good deals on Ebay right now for cheap LED's Like the D120's and Aquamana on Amazon is also a good LED for a cheap price.
If you want to go HoB filter with maybe a fuge mod this is a popular build and is only 41$
I don't know much about skimmers but they can be pricey, but if you don't overstock the tank I'm not sure if a skimmer will be absolutely necessary.
There are also things to take into account like thermometer and power heads, though you can find good ones online for reasonable prices there are a large amount options and it kinda depends on doing your own research and going with something, those things could run for a total of around 100$.
You can go get them at Petsmart or percolate but I always check Amazon first. I'd go with double the filtration for a 30 gallon, so that'd be a filter for around 60 gallons. Let's see.
This is for a 70 gallon and it comes with all the inserts you need. I have the Aquaclear 50 and I love it. The only issue in had was the lid rattled so I took it off and covered it with Saran Wrap. Quiet as the wind now.
http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-70-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FUW/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_5
I recommend a sponge filter. (That's what I switched to after discovering a hang on back filter created too much flow for my betta.)
Here is a link to more information on how these work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z52ZsA2IxP4
You will need an air pump (I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YF4FI), filter (https://www.amazon.com/Aquaneat-Aquarium-Sponge-Filter-Breeding/dp/B078HDL21V/, but there are many other options around), and tubing. I also recommend getting a check valve & throttling valve. These should be like $1 each at your local fish store.
I plan to grow larger variant tomatoes such as beefsteak and want to make sure this kind of layout and these components will be good enough for that purpose.
Here is the list of components I'm planning to use:
&#x200B;
The remaining plumbing components I need I'll pick up from my local Home Depot.
Heater
Air Pump I stopped using because with all the plants it was unnecessary
Lights
Filter is a Penn-Plax 20 gallon dual carbon / sponge filter, I can't find a link for it, sorry
So I just use the pump and the tubing from this filter because it sucked up my last betta and I still had the parts for it. But you can use this pump or anything that is the right size for your tank :)
I like this 3 gallon filter and I use it in my 5 gallon tank - the most annoying part about it is it doesn’t have suction cups, uses a clip, so you’d have to glue on your own suction cups to get it to stay. It’s also a little loud so if your tank is in a bedroom this wouldn’t be great
Whisper In-Tank Filter 3i for 1 - 3 gallon aquariums (25846) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHQ712/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eR53AbWDK8AVT
http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25846-Whisper-BioScrubber-3-Gallon/dp/B000HHQ712
This is what I use in my split 10 gallon on both sides. It doesn't bother the fish.
I find a simple, small stream of bubbles is ok as long as it's off in the corner and they have room to get away from it. I have a pretty weak pump on my airstone/decoration thing (2.5 gallon tank) and although I COULD keep it on all day and my betta would be fine, I feel stressed for him so I only turn it on sometimes haha! In my other 2.5 gallon I have a small filter without any filter cartridge in it just to move the water around a bit. That actually works better in my opinion...fish seems less bothered by it than the bubbles...but it IS uglier. I'd say do the airstone and just see how he reacts. :)
Here's the filter I have in my 2.5 gallon. The air pump that comes with this filter is the exact one I use for the airstone in my other 2.5 gallon tank as well. http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25846-Whisper-BioScrubber-3-Gallon/dp/B000HHQ712
Honestly, those internal filters are a PITA, and take up a lot of space in an already small tank.
Look at HOB filters. I prefer canister filters, but for a ten, Go with something like this.
I still have a bucket of gravel that was in with them but it's also got a ton of feces and gunk mixed in it. I was just going to throw it away because I got some sand to replace it but I guess I could rinse it off? I have their bigger rocks sitting in some bleach water with the air pumps because they are covered in algae.
https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06080-QuietFlow-Filter-100GPH/dp/B000SP65N8/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487887023&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=AQUArium+filter this is the filter
10 Gallon Tank w/ Endlers Livebearers
1x 10 gallon tank empty tank without hood $10
2x Super Bright clip on LEDs from ebay $14
3x 5lbs gravel bags $10
1x 25 watt heater $10
1x Aqueon Filter $12
Dual Sponge Filter and Air Pump $15
Endlers The worlds best fish!
Endlers are prolific, colorful, rare, and have a better persoanlity than chicilids (I have both)
Well I already have the tank and it is 10 gallons. Im pretty anal lol but I dont want to go to overboard on the spending, I just want something that will do everything that its supposed to well, nothing flashy or crazy expensive. What Im most frustrated about finding is the hood that holds a light for the tank. I found this filter which got good reviews http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06080-QuietFlow-Filter-100GPH/dp/B000SP65N8/ref=pd_ybh_1 but im not sure how i can put a top on the tank with that on the side =/
I'm really close to having my first setup cycled based on those same tanks (although in 70 gallon for the fish and 50 for the gb). I'm really happy with them. A couple things to know about them:
I used Grow Stones as my medium. More expensive but for a small system I figured it was worth it. Since they're made of recycled bottles they fit nicely with the resource minimization goals that most AP practitioners have. They're nice and light and very porous but need extensive rinsing/soaking to get the calcium carbonate off them, which will throw off your pH.
In my limited experience so far, here's what I've learned and/or would have done differently:
Hope that helps. If I'm wrong on any of this I'd love to know about it!
Here's one on Amazon just under $50 with free shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/Green-Killing-Machine-Internal-Sterilizer/dp/B001KP9B2W
When treating your fish make sure there isn't any carbon in the filter otherwise the medicine won't work. Also, I would recommend getting a UV sterilizer for the algae bloom. I'm attaching an Amazon link below. This is the one I have and it made a drastic difference.
AA Aquarium Green Killing Machine 9 Watt | Internal UV Sterilizer System with Power Head | Kills Algae, Bacteria, and Waterborne Pathogens | Easy, Submersible Installation
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KP9B2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VOFnDbY0ZE2D9
I'll try.uv 9watt
Plants yes, fish no. Plants will remove excess nutrients, and fish will add them back in. That's not to say you shouldn't add more fish though. 99% of new tanks go through all kinds of nasty blooms and phases before they mature.
It can be green, brown, red, purple, etc. It can be fuzzy, bubbly, flat, or hairy/fuzzy. Here are some examples:
http://i.imgur.com/DzvhFUA.jpg
http://www.furzmulde.de/Jan/960L/images/cyano1.JPG
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y55/steelhealr/cyano3.jpg
It is not actually harmful to your fish or anything, it is just unsightly and will cover every single surface in your tank, including plants, which will kill them.
It could also be diatoms, which look like this:
http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww82/bonomo53/DSC01359.jpg
They are completely harmless and feed off silicates. They show up, eat silicates, then disappear once there's no more food. There is no other way to get rid of them other than to just wait it out. They are mostly seen on substrate since that is where the most silicates will be, but can be on any surface.
The best way to kill your cyano right now, and prevent it in the future:
Suck it out/pick it out. As much as you can.
Get a UV sterilizer. If you are using a canister filter you can use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/AquaTop--Line-UV-Sterilizer-5W/dp/B005HK1OTO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426166293&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=In-Line+UV+Sterilizer
Or if you want it separate something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KP9B2W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687622&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B005HJYXNO&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0KRW38CX9XZE4BRR2PTH
They sterilize water with a high powered UV light. It is not required, it just makes it a heck of a lot easier to kill & prevent.
The next step is to blackout your tank. No lights. Cover it up if you have to, to prevent light from coming in. At least 24 hours, more if you can. It needs light to survive.
Last step, water changes. Keep up on them. You will need more frequent and larger changes at first to really remove the excess nutrients. This is a basic for any aquarium, cyano or no, but is the ONLY way to make sure the cyano dies and doesn't return. No excess nutrients, no bacteria.
Once it is under control you can add more plants and decorations. Add plants first before you add fish. If you are new to plecos, please make sure you feed him bottom feeder/algae eater food, they cannot survive on existing tank algae, in addition to this they make a lot of poop, and therefore a lot of excess nutrients, so make sure you've got the filtration to handle what kind of fish you want in your tank. They also get huge, so be ready for that!
I would say CO2 is more of a lifestyle than a cure. Its a big commitment in my mind but then I haven't tried it.
UV is easy to set up and you should see results in a week. if not just return it for a full refund within 30 days.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KP9B2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01
It'll be worth your while to get an RODI unit in the long run. You can get a simple 4 stage RODI on Amazon for like $60 as well, so you wouldn't be spending that much.
Edit: here's the Amazon listing for it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fMtCDbWX9QMVW
I use this. It works great and cheap. Easy to set up. 0 TDS coming out of it.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00204CQF6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You can get a cheap RO unit for $60. Totally worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00204CQF6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
sounds like you just had an inefficient system tbh
i never empty out my dwc, i let the water get low enough that it forces me to fill it back up with nutes, no issues whatso ever.
constantly ph checking= once every couple days? even then it is stable enough to not do anything with it except maybe once a week. get a decent sized container and it isn't an issue. it's an issue when people are growing 4ft plants in 2g pails
i don't use a chiller, and haven't had high temps ever, AC for the house and the tent is in the basement, so cooler air is pumped in always
if I'm lazy i just fill my vegging plants with plain tap water and no nutes, deficiencies aren't the end of a plants life instantly, it takes weeks and weeks of no nutes
the price of my dwc was cheap as hell...all prices cdn
13$ containerx2 - https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.102-l-strong-box-tote-with-locking-in-blackyellow.1000706729.html
45$ air pump (does my entire tent and veg area without issues)- https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002JLJC0W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
12$ air stones - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MT45VCM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
7$ air splitter - https://www.amazon.ca/Uxcell-Jardin-Control-Aquarium-Diameter/dp/B00A8X1XI2/ref=zg_bs_6292472011_39?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=KC92XXTPW3FJSTWA4C12
7$ air tube - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000255NYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
15$ netcup - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073WJ78MM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
24$ digi ph pen - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07C9WR156/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
So complete setup, without having to buy anything else again for a 4x4 tent is a grand total of 136$
i have left it for 12 days without touching it after a fresh top up due to work requiring me to be away
now, a RDWC could be a bit more advanced, overwhelming and costly to a newer person, but for sure throwing an airstone in a bucket isn't complicated for newer people
I changed up the design after taking those pics and added another airline down the middle. For the pump, I use the EcoPlus 728450 1 to 18W Single Outlet Commercial Air Pump, 793 GPH for 3 plants and it is crazy! It is really like a foam bath of air in the buckets my girls are digging it, they are in week 4 of flower and the buds are about to explode in size. http://i.imgur.com/3WMFbfC.jpg
Yah you can find them on amazon for sure, I got this one from my local hydro shop for I think $35. It can run 6 air stones at once so it's not something you need for a smaller system (i'm running 6 seperate 5 gallon DWC's off of it). I do use one of these on my 55 gallon rez but that's probably overkill for one system.
Its not loud outdoors at all, but indoors it is sort of annoying. I use it in my garage but couldn't use it like in the kitchen or something. They get a little warm but they don't ever get particularly hot to the touch unless it not in a ventilated area. If indoors id probably hit it with a fan.
This is the one I'm using. $34
My ecoair is supposed to push 253 GPH and I wouldn't even consider for a second moving to actually using all 4 ports. That GH pump says 320 GPH. Not sure if that step up is going to be enough. Then again I'm not entirely sure the ecoair is actually putting out 253 GPH....
Any experiences with this Pump
I think that GPH looks a lot better, but reliability is a whole nother issue.
I'll get some pictures of everything for you later today when I get in the tent.
Using 3.75" net pots with hydroton rocks and rapid rooters.
For air pumps I'm running 2 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JLJC0W/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o1_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
1 line from each pump into each bucket, in case of pump failure. So each bucket has two air lines/airstones.
Cloudline T6 for exhaust
I use the Marina S10 in mine that came with a kit, and it works really well. It's super quiet and has adjustable flow, so with it turned all the way down there's very little current and surface agitation.
Just wanted to point out that while it's true that a 10g setup would cost roughly the same as a 5g, but sometimes space is a factor.
With that in mind, you can expect to spend roughly $40-60 depending on where and how you're shopping. Currently PetSmart has 5.5g and 10g tanks that come with an LED hood for $30, and PetCo has the $1 per gallon sale (10g minimum) if you're looking for a convenient route.
You should decide if you'd like live plants or not. That will determine many factors for your tank, such as what kind of substrate and lighting. Having a planted aquarium doesn't mean it'll be high maintenance or high cost, and going planted is almost always the better choice over artificial. That being said, a betta can live just fine in a tank with fake decorations.
Tank: $10-30 At my LFS, a 5.5g rimless is about $11. At a place like Petco/Petsmart, you're probably looking at $15-25. You should probably check out your local Craigslist while you're at it, too.
Substrate: $5-20 There's a lot of variety here.
Sand. Gravel. Rocks. Out of these three, I prefer sand. Some plants can still grow in it, it looks nice and is easier to keep clean since fish poop doesn't migrate to the bottom of the tank as much as with gravel/rocks.
If you're tight on a budget but would like lots of plants, check out the Walstad Method, which uses potting soil (organic) capped with sand, uses natural lighting and low/no maintenance plants. This method would probably set your back about $10-15 in substrate and plants.
If you've got a little extra money and want plants, you can buy soil made for aquariums (found in actual fish stores, not Petco/Petsmart), CaribSea (~$20 for 10lbs), etc.
Mix aquatic soil and sand or rocks if you'd like a compromise. For my heavily planted 5g, I used 2 liters of Mr. Aqua soil (~$20) and black sand ($3) to give you an idea.
Filter: $10-15 Sponge filters are dirt cheap and fool-proof, but require an air pump and some tubing. Some people prefer a hang-on-the-back filter; I use this one ($12) and stuff the insides with a sponge and ceramic media (I don't buy the refill cartridges). HOBs like this are advantageous because you can customize the filter media.
Heater: $10-15 Hydor 25w, $15 will do just fine for a 5g. There are cheaper ones, but keep in mind that many cheap heaters aren't adjustable and/or don't have light indicators or built in thermostats. If that's okay with you, then by all means.
Light: $0+ If you're not doing plants, no light is necessary. If you're doing the Walstad method or just have low light plants, you just need natural light or a lamp. If you're growing plants (other than moss/anubia/java), you can use a desk lamp but you'll want to look into getting some daylight (like 6500k) compact fluorescent ($5?) or LEDs. There are special lights that sit or clip on your tank made for growing plants, but they're more expensive at around $40+.
Thermometer: $1-3 Anything more than that's probably a waste.
Decoration/Plants: $5+ Just make sure no decorations have rough or sharp edges. It would be nice to give him a hiding spot, some people just use a small clay pot for plants. If you're going planted, you should check out anubias and java moss/ferns, as they don't require substrate or much lighting to thrive, and can be found anywhere.
Check out /r/AquaSwap and you'll find people selling plants, and you'll often find kind members who will just give you trimmings you can propogate yourself for free if you cover shipping ($5-7, usually), all you need to do is ask. It probably wouldn't be hard to find someone who could sell you equipment and accessories (new or established sponge filters, regular filters, heaters, etc) for a decent price.
Why not use a separate filter and put the lights on the timer?
http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-A285-Marina-Power-Filter/dp/B0032G8TPW/ref=sr_1_10?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1341333987&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=aquarium+filter
Smaller than i thought. Hard to find hob filters for such a small tank. You can try Penn Plax cascade 20, though i saw its out of stock on amazon.
Also, i think this would be fine as well.
If it ends up being to much of a flow when pouring back into tank, you can just baffle it with a sponge.
I currently use this for one of my betta tanks. I bought it used and it's been running for over a year. The flow rate is adjustable which is perfect for any betta tanks.
Oh yes definitely ditch that horrendous filter/light brick thing that comes with it, what a piece of junk! I replaced it with a hang on marina filter from amazon and its been amazing. I put a bag of purigen in place of one of the carbon cartridges and that seems to work pretty well too. The light is an aquatic nature solar duo-boy 26 watt version
You can try this https://www.amazon.ca/Hydor-Koralia-Nano-Aquarium-Circulation/dp/B0036S4YZ0/ref=sr_1_8?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468459442&amp;sr=1-8
Try to angle everything so it moves everything in as close to a circle as possible. It should help.
Also, why the root thing?
Remember, turtles aren't really playing. They can turn on each other very quickly, esp being that cramped up. Try to find a tank on kijiji or craigslist. If you get a 90gal or bigger, you don't need 2 tanks. You only need 2 basking spots. Use egg crate found at a Home Depot type of store. its found in the lighting section. Cut it too big and slowly chip away at it until you can force it between the glass. It allows water flow so you only have the 1 tank to manage.
When buying used, don't pay more then $1 a gallon or not much more. Thats all its worth at most. If you find a cheap old tank, make sure to reseal it (its soooooooooooooooooo easy!!!!!). Before the rescue I bought a 90gal+stand for $90. Resealed it and that sucker lasted me for years :)
I hate airstones with an ever loving passion and I never use them in any of my tanks. As long as the filter provides some surface agitation you are fine without them.
If you want better circulation get a pump like this
Hydor Koralia 240
Hydor Koralia Nano 240 Aquarium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036S4YZ0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share what I got for my nano, magnet on the back to stick and very minimal, you could even get the higher gph one.
Yeah maybe! I have a small 10 gallon tank right now, with the hipargero lights and this fan that I will be installing today: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036S4YZ0?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image.
I also have a GSP in there that is flourishing. I'm still figuring out the lighting settings and everything but I moved the coral to the farthest edge that I could. Maybe the water pump will help with algae settling on the coral.
Hydor koralia nano 240gph. In the 10g I had it in it was a little strong, but in the 29g it's a perfect. I don't think it would have a problem in your tank though
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036S4YZ0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503166568&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hydor+koralia+nano
C02 Kit
Bubble Counter
Diffuser
You also need funnels to get everything into the soda bottles, a few check valves to prevent backflow. The reaction uses baking soda and citric acid, I got both from the market so thy are food grade.
I've never used any of the ones you listed, so I'm not sure (but the second one looks pretty nice) I bought this one a year or so ago & seems to work well enough: http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0APPW7BZA4DKSHBM7PZD
edit: I should prolly mention I'm using the fluval 20g c02 kit with a glass diffuser, not the aquatek regulator.
I saw the solenoid was listed as "8.99" and I was like WHAT, I WILL TAKE 10.
Typo, I gotcha. $84.99. Yarr.
Setup looks okay.
Two suggestions:
I have this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Tropical-AGU00529-Reactor-Aquarium/dp/B005DGJEGC - I find it disperses the gas a lot better than a diffuser. Also, it's an inline thing, so it's in the cabinet under your tank and doesn't look ugly.
I have a 40b too, and a 10 lb tank. I have to fill it about every 6 months or so. Costs about $23 where I am, just to give you a base point.
Good job, enjoy!
*Edit: Oh, forgot to mention. If you go the reactor route, you'll need a bubble counter. Also, get a drop checker to ensure levels of cO2 in your tank are good.
Bubble counter: https://smile.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K
Drop checker: https://smile.amazon.com/Aquatic-Glass-Checker-MONITOR-sakkara/dp/B00OO2FUFK
Hey I just bought the same tank! I fit the same exact heater in the compartment next to the filter intake tube, it fit perfectly. I also used a little over half a bag of eco-complete. I just planted it a couple days ago. I bought a Nutrafin co2 kit but the ladder diffuser/bubble counter took up a whole wall so I ditched it and bought this glass diffuser and this bubble counter, they're still in the mail though so can't comment on how they work.
It looks like you're going with pressurized co2 which I sort of want to too but the replacement tanks seem expensive. Kind of wish I hadn't bought the Nutrafin and just made my own bottle DIY but the cannister is nice and so is the tubing it comes with and I'll just use the ladder diffuser on a bigger tank. There's not much room to work with and the lid seems annoying to fit things under, like tubing so I'm still working on that but overall it's a beautiful tank. Good luck!
The prices are different from when I ordered them but here's my exact setup!
Here's the co2 system
This is the bubble counter I have
Here's the diffuser I got but there's cheaper options as well
Ferts - http://greenleafaquariums.com
Co2 Regulator - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/copy-of-archaea-co2-regulator-pro-dual-gauge-fits-cga-320
5lb Co2 tank - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3ONOLGNT00SR9. Co2 diffuser - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MLTRR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Bubble counter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GCPM6K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Co2 Drop Checker - http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-Aquatic-CO2-Glass-Drop-Checker-PH-Momitor-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Test-CO2-Kit-/391351972319?varId=660586838351&amp;txnId=650126189026 Co2 tubing and check valve - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/pressure-proof-tube-parts-set
Co2 Drop Checker Solution - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/ph-kit-ph-reagent-refill-for-drop-checker
That should be everything. I would look into EI dosing too. Especially if you're going with dry ferts. You'll have to find a place near you that can fill the Co2 tank. I get mine filled at Beer Depot. Any home brewery store will have the equipment necessary to refill a 5lb Co2 tank. Welding stores also refill Co2 tanks. If you're really luck, you may have an awesome LFS that refills tanks too. If I missed anything, or if you have any more questions, please let me know. =)
Just went through my box of fish goods. Probably the best things (which I coincidentally got off Amazon) are random airline accessories. One-way valves, random connectors, suction cups, and a pack of check valves have all proven useful. It's great having extra pieces for whenever you need one. I built a drip acclimation line that I saw for sale somewhere with these parts, I have two DIY sponge + K1 filters that I needed one-way valves for to regulate the airflow, etc. Just so many uses :)
Some other good purchases:
Seachem Purigen
Bubble Counter - for DIY CO2 or DIY in-tank brine shrimp hatchery
Yeast - for DIY CO2
Metal Faucet Adapter - for gravel vacuum that attaches to your sink
Pre-filter Sponge Pack
sure.. do you have a co2 checker (green blue liquid) soemthing like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rhinox-Glass-Drop-Checker-Kit/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=co2+aquarium+checker&amp;qid=1566144421&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
but if you have a bubble counter 1 bubble per sec is what I use for a 240 litre aquarium
Nevermind I found it, a CO2 drop checker.
https://www.amazon.com/Rhinox-Glass-Drop-Checker-Kit/dp/B005C74ZCA
:D
This is the one I use: Rhinox Glass Drop Checker Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zUCzyb0RP1WZ4
Works well for me. It cleans easily with a peroxide soak and some shaking. I clean it and change indicator solution about every 3 months. The glass is pretty sturdy, haven't had any issues yet.
I use the adaptor for the paintball setup, I used to play paintball so had a tank, what I forgot was how easy o-rings get damaged and after a weekend of setup needed new ones to run the adaptor, messing and checking for leaks meant putting the tank on and off. Got a 100 pack of o-rings and been using that adaptor and the rather cheap wyn co2 regulator off Amazon of the same colorway.
At the price of the linked kit, I probably saved a little, piece parting only took a little time, assurance of a more expensive regulator may be a comfort, I knew how they should work and researched mechanism to know I could mess with the one I got if I had a problem.
Rhinox Glass Drop Checker
Aquario Neo CO2 Diffuser S
Adapter
[CO2 Regulator] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4MBF4Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_w1RTVFzwfDilY)
[Indicator Solution ] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MJBNLX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_MHSRWpefnxKji)
Tubing 16 Feet
[100 o-rings]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009HI6F3W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
I really like the bactosurge sponges because they are very fine and tend to polish the water. Problem is they are meant for like 30g and are pretty big. :/. Honestly If you are doing chili rasboras and nano fish, I would get one of those dual-ones that sit on the side of the glass (This style https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/). This could easily support a 20gal tank.
Not sure if we are allowed to link to Amazon, but I have two of these in my tank and I am liking them a lot.
Never used one before but something like this might work for you.
Sponge filter
Basically runs off an air pump and the sponge collects debris. It'll need cleaning but a combo unit like this sounds about what you're after.
There's also this unit but it's designed for larger tanks.
If you want some more interesting creatures in your tank I'd suggest ghost shrimp. Add them first and then introduce the beta. If he's already established territory he'll be more likely to defend it.
If you do run into problems they cost less than 50 cents per shrimp.
The best thing about sponge filters is that they are dirt cheap! If you already have a filter for that tank and are adding it just for the extra filtration and added circulation, and if you have an airpump rated for a ~20G, this XY-2822 would work perfectly.
I barely started using flourish and excel so I can't attest to their usefulness. I have some bb algae and my plants weren't doing so well. Flourish should help, i've heard/read some great things about it seachem(flourish manufacture) also creates specific liquid nutrients like flourish iron, flourish magnesium, etc.
If I were you i'd use regular flourish(it's your choice if you also want to use excel) and see if your plants makes a comeback after a month.
Also if you're interested in the wasteland method this video gives a detailed explanation how to start it.
The first link is the just a little larger than the second, They both use an air pump. And I forgot to say I use saltyshrimp gh and kh as the remineralizer. Most tap water is fine for ghost or red cherry shrimp though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VAFGKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505891587&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=sponge%2Bfilter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41UvHBkfssL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0056XVF82/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505891637&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=sponge+filter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41dqWo%2BtSBL&amp;ref=plSrch
This is a pretty nice small internal filter. Unless you want to go with a hob style oooor maybe you are into the sponge filter world
This is my current filter btw. I wouldn't be surprised at all if it was overselling its flow rate too.
Thank you!!!
I have something like this set up for the tank. For a Pea Puffer 10g is recommended cause they are is so much waste they produce and they are very sensitive to water params (I keep mine usually around 7.5ph.)
A Colbalt Neo Therm Heater in the back right I covered with long grass kept at 78 (these guys like their water warm).
AZOO nano filter, but comparable to whisper filters you can get at Petco
I found a perfectly fit piece of wood from my LFS I have a pothos plant sitting on and growing (those are the roots you see)
Monte carlo and pretty much any sort of pennywort (hydrocotyle) I can get my hands on (I am obsessed).
I also have a small variety of floating plants, water lettuce, duckweed and my personal favorite frogbit.
Here's the build for my easiest to maintain tank. It was also extremely cheap to setup. I spent more on Bucephalandra than the tank, light, and filter put together.
Tank-Mr. Aqua 7.5 gallon Cube
Light-Chihiros C-series
Filter-Azoo Mignon 150
Substrate-Pool filter sand
Ferts-1/2 EI dose each week after 50% water change
CO2-None. CO2 makes tanks more difficult to maintain because plants grow really fast. This is coming from someone who keeps 3 high tech tanks.
I can grow plants in here very easily. I'm carpeting Helanthium tenellum and testing Lilaeopsis chinesis 'Maryland', Hydrocotyle tripartita 'Japan', there are a bunch of healthy crypts, lots of Bucephalandra, some Bolbitis, Ludwigia repens, corkscrew val, Myriophyllum aquaticum 'red stem', and Alternanthera reineckii 'Roseafolia'.
The SunSun Filters seem to be the best bang for your buck but I never had them. I have had a fluval 405 for years and I love it but the next one will be a sunsun its half the price.
Sunsun 302
I actually will support SunSun- good quality for cheap. This one is great for your tank, I just ordered one too
http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426904661&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=sunsun+canister+filter
This is what I have on my 40g Turtle tank. Get some Seachem Matrix or look for the sunsun media kits and fill the top 2 baskets with it. Get some plastic pot scrubbers for the bottom tray to put under the stock filter pads, and find some sort of coarse pad to go in between the scrubbies and the pad.
Also, get some thread seal tape for the intake tubes if your water level isn't to the top of the tank, or you'll have problems with priming.
You should easily be able to stay under $100 and get a solid filter going.
Here are the few pictures he has. We just moved into our own place a few months ago, and we've been so busy with house work., it's a little overrun with algae.
Here is what he wrote up about it:
My 29 gallon Amazon biotype.
Flora:
Echinodorus bleheri, Broad leaf Amazon Sword
Echinodorus 'Kleiner Bar', Kleiner Bar Amazon Sword
Sagittaria subulata, Dwarf Sagittaria
Limnobium laevigatum, Amazon Frogbit
Fauna:
3 Microgeophagus altispinosus, Bolivian Ram
8 Paracheirodon spp., Neon Tetra, Green Neon Tetra
4 Corydoras panda, Panda Cory
Equipment:
Marineland C360 knockoff: SunSun HW-302
Inline heater
108w T5HO fluorescent growlight fixture (2 6400k bulbs)
High tech CO^2 system: 20oz CO^2 tank with inline diffuser.
Substrate: black diamond pool filter sand
I'm two weeks in to my switch from a HOB to a Sunsun canister and I have no clue how I survived without the Sunsun. I love it. It's virtually silent, moved much more water, better flow... I adore it. Very easy to put together(Aside from the pipes, I had to stare at them for a couple minutes and try to find my center of peace). Make sure that you trim your hoses appropriately, though. It makes priming seriously easy.
This is the one I got. Pretty basic, but a great price for what you get! I have it in my 20 tall.
How long have you had her? Sometimes it takes new fish a while to figure out the whole feeding thing. Just gently tap on the glass to get her attention and make sure she sees you putting the food in.
For a filter, I really like my Aqueon internal filter. Just get rid of the cartridge and replace with the media of your choice and there you go. Adjustable spray makes it nice, I stick it in a corner and set it a little against the wall and it makes a fun circle current for mine to play in that isn't super strong.
https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-10-Gallon-QuietFlow-Internal-Filter/dp/B00AWV4R8I
I got a 3.5 gallon tank for my daughter's Betta. I have been dealing with fin rot, but it looks like he's getting better. I am trying to find a better filter than the one I have now. I'm using the one that came with the top fin aquascene tank. I don't think he like it because it disturbs the water too much. I was looking into the quietflow at10. I think this will work great for my tank. The one question I had about it is the filter.
First off they are expensive and it has carbon filled in it. I have seen people say you can fill it with your own media to create your own filter. I have seen sponges and ceramic rings? I just wondering what I should look for and how to go about it. I accidentally killed my cycle anyways so don't worry about that. That happened before I even knew what a cycle was. I want to start fresh and have something I know my fish will like and will help create and sustain my cycle.
Here is the desktop version of your link
I have a few of these and the water temp on the other side of the tank is usually around 75-76 F. The trick with these presets is to get a little water flow going across it to evenly heat the water. In 2 of the tanks with these heaters I have an Aqueon Quietflow Internal Filter
[https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Quietflow-Internal-Filter-Gallon/dp/B00AWV4R8I](this one) and I have the outflow pointed right at the heater.
I like the Aqueon Pro heaters or Ehiem Jager heaters better honestly. They cost a bit more, but the quality is better and they're adjustable. Once they're calibrated they sit right at the set temperature. I have the Aqueon Pros in my 55g show tank and two of my split 10s, and the Ehiem Jager in the 10g my Sammy gets to himself.
TBH I'm not sure if there's any filter that's not crap that would only cost $10 (not counting sponge filters because they need a pump which costs more than the sponge itself).
Whatever you get, I'd reccomend something with a low and/or adjustable flow when it comes to bettas. This is what I have in my 5.5g.
First and foremostly!!! You need this FISHLESS CYCLE GUIDE :) - The Nitrogen Cycle and the Fishless Cycle - getting your aquarium ready for fish - INJAF
>For light: I’m not too worried about this. I think I’m just going to buy whatever has good review on amazon?
Any light could do, even a table lamp with a good LED bulb w/ 4100K to 6500K (Kelvin scale) light color range, with 1-2 watts of lighting power per gallon.
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>For heaters: I’m trying to decide between the Aqueon Pro Adjustable Heater, 100W ($32ish) and the Aqueon Pro Adjustable Heater, 50W ($17ish). Does anyone know which one is better for my 10 gallon?
10g tank only needs a 50w adjustable heater, UNLESS you live in an extremely cold climate where a 50w is not enough to keep the tank at the necessary 78-80F. Usually though, 5w of power per gallon is sufficient for heating power.
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>For filters: I’m wanting to go with the sponge filters because I know they hold good bacteria and they’re more inexpensive, but I was also eyeing this aqueon quietflow (Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter, 10 Gallon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xPbNDbXVQYK33). I mainly would prefer the sponge filter because it’s so much cheaper and I know the flow won’t be too strong for a betta, but my problem is that I don’t understand what to buy. If anyone could dumb sponge filters down for me or recommend a bit of a filter shopping list, I would really appreciate it.
Here's my favorite sponge filter setup which I use in my own 5.5g tanks (they're rated for up to 20g and are nice compact sponge filters, so do not take away much space from your tank).
https://www.amazon.com/Powkoo-Double-Biochemical-Aquarium-Gallons/dp/B01M3VALFU/ Me and my bettas LOVE LOVE LOVE THIS!!!
AND from Petsmart - I HIGHLY recommend the TopFin Quartz BioBalls ceramic filter media, the rounded pearl shape makes them fit a lot more into a small space such as the dual-media chambers in the sponge filter I highly recommended above. It looks like this in store: https://i.imgur.com/Xz50k5F.jpg (I think it's not yet listed on their website because the stuff is still a new release).
https://www.amazon.com/U-picks-Aquarium-Gallon-Quietest-Accessories/dp/B07RRNDMXJ/ Nice air pump with all accessories to set it up - quiet mini air pump, check valve, and airline tubing.
See it all in action: https://i.imgur.com/KAyjMaj.mp4 (not my tank but my friends when she was fishless cycling hers, and the sponge filter is nicely visible. Mine is hidden behind bunch of silk plants :< lol)
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>Substrate: I’ve decided I want a low tech planted tank from the getgo. I would like some kind of carpet, I know this will be hard to achieve without CO2, but I’m ready to try it. I also want one of those sword plants I see around this sun. I want my plants to be able to root, but I also kind of want sand because it is my understanding that it will be easier to clean? Can I do something like soil with a layer of fluorite and another layer sand on top? Am I unnecessarily adding a bunch of layers here?
I donno much about planted tank substrates, I just use regular gravel (but I don't have a fully planted tank - hopefully someone w/ more info on that can weigh in).
>I want to start cycling as soon as possible, but I can’t until I get this together and I just want to do this right the first time around. Any advice would be appreciated.
The Nitrogen Cycle and the Fishless Cycle - getting your aquarium ready for fish - INJAF
API Freshwater Master Test Kit MUST MUST MUST HAVE ... and then Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability...
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>One more thing, I really like the look of the bonsai wood with Marimo balls unfurled on them to imitate little trees. Does anyone know if this is safe for bettas? I worry that the fins could get torn up or something.
I'd use Java Moss instead... looks more tree-like than Marimo moss balls on those driftwoods... should be ok if you are very careful to fill up any prickly sharp parts so that betta won't have any way to get hurt on them.
In my 5.5 gallon I use an Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter labeled for 10 gallon tanks, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHzVCbH2SBR7A
I removed their plastic bio comb thing and filled that space with ceramic rings. I also crammed some filter sponge between their cartridge and the intake as sort of a intake guard. I've been using the same cartridge for over a year and I just clean it when I clean the tank. Obviously the activated carbon is long since spent, but I roll with it since I keep my tank clean in other ways.
The output is adjustable but fairly strong even at lower settings, so I would not recommend for a betta tank.
3/12/15 Update!
http://imgur.com/a82EFp5
I got a brand new filter, the aqueon quietflow internal filter
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426184823&amp;sr=1&amp;keywords=aqueon+quietflow+10
Put it in my tank, did a 50% water change, and waited about half an hour and my tank is absolutely crystal clear! I'm so happy I decided to take your advice and get a filter. I'm sure there will be tough days ahead, but for now I'm celebrating a small victory.
The shrimp are being mischievous as usual, and my betta is currently exploring his new/old tank. (I moved some stuff around).
My only real complaint right now is the plants don't really hide the stuff as much as I had hoped, but I can always move the stuff around later on.
Oh, I also added a tiny bit (Half a cap) of Bacteria.
Anything else I should do in the meantime?
Thanks for any and all help!
Here is the mobile version of your link
I use this one on my nano tank and it works great. Mine is only probably 6 inches deep and this is definitely small enough. I just put a little piece of sponge on the intake so it doesn't suck up baby shrimp.
This one is dead silent and you can control the flow rate for a betta. Even full speed is okay for a betta fish
Hi there! You've probably already seen the info sheet stickied here, but also this page about the nitrogen cycle was super-helpful for me, personally. A filter is good, but it's much better if you get your tank's cycle all set up and running properly. Right now, the filter is only going to pull out debris mechanically from the water; the nitrogen cycle will help biologically remove toxins from your water column, mainly ammonia from waste and such, that can hurt Finley's quality of life.
I don't have experience with your specific filter, although as a general rule, filters included with tanks aren't always ideal... for a 3.5gal, filters like this one are pretty well-reviewed. I have used it myself on a 5.5gal, although you might want to baffle it a bit so the flow doesn't blow Finley around the tank; a sponge can be used here, or something fancier.
You'll probably want to complete a fish-in cycle to give Finley the best possible environment. As far as filter material (you can see it on the image in that filter I linked), you'll want both mechanical and biological filter media (where you beneficial bacteria colony will live). Some people also use chemical filtration, like carbon inserts, but mechanical/biological is fine for a nano tank.
Fish-in cycling is not preferable, but totally doable. I've done it, you just have to really stay on top of water changes/parameters to make sure Finley's home doesn't get too toxic for him while you're starting your cycle. I swear by Tetra SafeStart+, never had a problem kick-starting a cycle with it, but not everyone has good experiences with "bottled bacteria." Do you have a water-testing kit? This one is the most accurate/popular, I think.
I hope this helps! I was very confused in the beginning, myself, and slowly learned how everything worked with help from this sub. Let us know what else you need help with! :)
People will yell at you for keeping it in a bowl and some people will even recommend they have to have 10g of water to be healthy.
A bowl is not healthy for the fish, but I've kept bettas in 2.5g tanks with no problems. The most important part is getting a filter and a heater, and not over feeding.
You want more lateral space than height, so a cubic or cylindrical tank isn't optimal. A simple 2.5g from Petco is what I use and is fine; it has the foot print of a shoe box. Bettas aren't really vertical swimmers, then are lateral swimmers; they also benefit from more surface area, which a rectangular tank gives.
I run this filter on my 2.5g and haven't had problems with it for a year. It will do better if you clean it every month.
Heaters are tricky; my best advice is to get a digital thermometer like this one and watch the temperature. My 2.5g hasn't dropped below 79 in a couple months, and I'm not running a heater. In the winter I use a heater like this one to keep the temperature steady. When you do start using a heater, you want to watch your temperature closely to make sure you aren't over heating the tank!
I use a desklamp with a Spiral CFL light bulb as lighting; but I also keep live plants. Your lighting completely depends on what you have in the tank. Keeping some plants isn't hard, but it is a balancing act that you have to get used to. You also have to do a little research about the type of plant and it's needs. If you want plants, give me a PM and I'll give you some easy plant recommendations. If you don't want plants, get a 10watt spiral CFL "Daylight" (6300K) lightbulb and put it in a desk lamp that is a couple inches above the water; or just put the tank in a window that gets some light through the day.
Food is simple; a small pinch of flake food or a little bit of freeze dried blood worms every few days is fine. Obviously live food is better, but it is also more work and more expensive.
___
TL:DR
Here is my 2.5g now after I trimmed it and before I topped it off. It has ~20 Black Bar Endlers in it now instead of a Betta. If you want a tank with live plants like that it takes a bit of planning, but isn't too bad.
I'm giving you this list because cost increases with size. A great 2.5g will cost you ~$60-100 upfront, and not much in the long run. A good 10G will cost you ~$100-200 because you will need a stronger filter, larger heater, larger tank, stronger lights. A bowl is the cheap option, and your fish will lose its color, likely lose some fins due to fin rot, and I would be surprised if it lives a year. A tank with a filter and heater will solve all those issues.
I'm a little late but I'm a huge fan of this filter. It's tiny yet powerful with a controllable flow. I have mine on a custom tank that's really small(maybe 2 gallons, more like 1.5) and the water is crystal clear, though I did add my own media.
I have an RO Buddie and it works quite well for the price. EC of the output water is damn near zero
I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG64FM/ref=twister_B00DV4370M?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
$90 for 100gpd is hard to beat, and it brings my water from ~275 to 5ppm. If you want a cleaner-looking or permanent setup you might be well served by going for a little higher end kit with a tank, though.
Edit: Don't forget a TDS meter so you can monitor your output so you know when you're up for maintenance.
Some wells give nice, sweet water and others, not so much. Looks like you've got a not-so-much one.
Investing in a ro filter would be a good idea. A very small grow could get away with something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-100-Gallon/dp/B00DOG64FM
So I can't speak to the efficacy of my unit for salt as I am very new, but i use the RO buddie and my water always tests right where I would want it to be. Granted if you have a very large tank it will likely be insufficient. I use it for a 30 gallon tank. It takes about an hour to 1.5 hours to make 5 gallons depending on the water temp going through it
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG64FM/ref=twister_B00DV4370M?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Dude thank you. I didnt know this existed. Def picking one up. https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-100-Gallon/dp/B00DOG64FM
Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-100-Gallon/dp/B00DOG64FM
I'm happy enough with it I bought a second one after I left my first one out on a night that froze.
Bought this Wednesday. Should be delivered today. I'll do a write up of how well it works once I set it all up. Hopefully, I can get it going tonight so I can do an overnight mash and boil in the morning. Strangely, it would likely be something I rarely brew: a IIPA. Gotta use up my malt and hops before they go bad.
I use a pre sponge filter. You can find them on amazon. I happened to purchase these.
I’d move them back to the tank ASAP and pick up a filter sponge for your filter intake. I use the “fluval edge” prefilters on my aquaclear HOB filters with no issues. LTWHOME Pre-Filter Sponge/Foam Set For Fluval Edge Aquarium (Pack Of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FMJACbBKN82TE
Fluval EDGE Pre-Filter Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gaKPybNKN3XM0
Or in bulk
Generic Pre-Filter Sponge / Foam Set For Fluval Edge Aquarium (Pack Of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AaKPyb5NGTFHQ
The Tank
https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Fish-Aquarium-Starter-Gallon/dp/B01LCZMHPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536884869&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aqueon+10+gallon
For the gravel I het a $5 discount card since I bought some cat toys, so I got that for $7 from Petco. I would recommend the fluval shrimp stratum though
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Plant-Shrimp-Stratum-4-4-Pound/dp/B00JGQIY48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536884958&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fluval+shrimp+stratum
Then I got this set of marimo balls
https://www.amazon.com/Marimo-Moss-Ball-Variety-Pack/dp/B00I323A0E/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536884997&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=marimo+balls
Got some pre-filter inlet covers
https://www.amazon.com/LTWHOME-Pre-Filter-Sponge-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536885057&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fluval+prefilter+sponge
API Freshwater test kit for $20 from amazon
API GH KH test kit for $8 from amazon
a basic TDS electric meter for $10 from ebay
I got salty shrimp 100 grams for about $20 off ebay
Then I bought a piece of driftwood from the Pet store for $10
I got three java moss balls from the pet store for $6 each
Bought an Anubias plant from the pet store for I believe it was $12
I got 3 amano shrimp and 5 CRS from the pet store, prices vary so check your own pet store.
It has a hole that you can see right through it. I might not be the right dimensions, but it looks like this.
I have the tetra 3i filter. I couldn't get any pictures of the tube, but it has a thin plastic cross covering the opening... But it seems that could be easy for the shrimp to get suck in through those gaps.
Are you suggesting something like this? I'm looking around on Amazon for a similar one that would fit the dimensions. Any recommendations are more than welcome!!
I understand about the air pump noise, especially if the tank's by your bed. Its a big factor in why I haven't switched over.
The Aquaclear 20 would be fine for a modestly stocked 10g. I just erred on the side of more filtration and media. I keep the flow low but I also have a 50 gph submersible pump tucked in the other side of the tank to promote water circulation.
The recommendation for HOBs is 8-10x tank volume filtration per hour, so 80-100 gph/hour on a 10g. The Aquaclear 20 max is 100 gph; the Aquaclear 30 max is 150 gph.
Platys are big poopers so you might consider the AC30 if you'll get 2-3 of them, especially if it won't be run on high. It's $6 more at $33. You'll want to put a prefilter like this on the intake tube if you get shrimp or tiny fish. (12 is a lot, though; they'd last you years.)
If you're looking for something different than a betta (I'm sorry for your loss) you might consider a group of small fish. I have ember tetras and chili rasboras in my 10g.
I have seen canisters used before and the reason people get scared of them is because they think that they should not clean the filter pads because it will kill the biological filtration in the pads. However, you need to remember that the pads are there to clean out your tank by grabbing large debris and filtering it out of the system in consecutively fine filter media until the water is "polished". These pads need to be cleaned completely every time you clean the filter which is the same number of times you should clean the filter socks that a sump would use other wise a filter sock can cause the same issue. I try to clean my canister about once a week, I have all the biological filtration on the top trays and all of the pads on the bottom so that the water that goes through my bio filtration is as clean as possible making it so I never have to clean that part of the filter. I then run my pads through my washing machine on a rinse cycle, after I run several rinse cycles to eliminate any left over detergent, I have an efficient front loader for this so this might not work for all washing machines. The pads come out as clean as the day that I put them in the canister, I think the spinning does this more than the rinsing. I also dump all the left over waste water in the canister, which is about 2-3 gallons, then I clean out the canister and fill up the rest of my 5 gallon bucket from the tank for my 5 gallon water change. Since the bio filter media is left wet during this time all of the bacteria stays alive and is ready when I hook the filter back up. I will say that this can be more work than a filter sock on a sump which is why most people do sumps but a canister properly set up with a maintenance schedule can work.
Here is the filter I have, I was able to fit all the filter pads it came with in the bottom 2 trays and all the bio filter media it came with in the third tray. I then put a liter of SeaChem Matrix in the fourth tray but I could have fit more, you could also use MarinePure instead. I did throw the carbon that it comes with out, not very good, and replaced it with better carbon. The intake side also has a floating surface skimmer which for me helps keep the surface of my aquarium crystal clear. I found this option cheaper and over all I like it but like most I may switch to a sump at a later time but I will keep the canister because it can always be used with a sump as media reactor with a built in pump.
Edit: A word
I think this filter is a great value. I've had mine for about 18mo and not a complaint yet
https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw304B-525GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MH37484/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491931749&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=sun+aquarium+filters
I would suggest this filer. I've had mine for over a year with no issues. it's an easy filter to set up and keeps my 75gallon very clear even with 4 turtles in it
In that case go with a 200. I think I found the same filter I linked above, so then here its, but with media, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MH37484/ref=pd_aw_sbs_8?pi=SS115&amp;simLd=1 Reviews on them are great. So two of these or one fx6 might work, with a supplemental aqua clear 110.
I am using this https://www.amazon.com/Uniclife-Aquarium-Outlets-Accessories-Adjustable/dp/B01EBXI7PG/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488314150&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=aquarium+air+pump. I have it mounted underneath the tank stand and its more than enough power to run 2 of the massive corner sponge filters you can get on amazon. its super quiet, small, and best of all its adjustable flow/noise. as a bonus it will come with some extra kit or you can order the pump alone. i went with the kit so i could get the check valves because i was mounting it way below the water level. if you are running a single filter it comes with a T so you can convert the 2 outputs into 1 and also comes with some line and airstones.
The DIY fogger is a variant of what I've come across on YouTube and various vivarium forums. The one Ive created is very very light fog and doesn't place a settling fog at the bottom of the tank. Its not like the ones you see where people have bought an ultrasonic humidifier and attached a hose. So far I dont see build up of condensation or inconsistent moisture in the substrate. But as with most of this stuff its trial and error and some day i may find myself not using one, but for now, it works.
Parts i used:
Container:https://www.walmart.com/ip/16408650?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;adid=22222222227009105318&amp;wl0=&amp;wl1=g&amp;wl2=c&amp;wl3=40343306312&amp;wl4=pla-78303470552&amp;wl5=9016832&amp;wl6=&amp;wl7=&amp;wl8=&amp;wl9=pla&amp;wl10=8175035&amp;wl11=online&amp;wl12=16408650&amp;wl13=&amp;veh=sem
Airpump(any will work, but i went with a dual port to push more air):https://www.amazon.com/Uniclife-Aquarium-Outlets-Accessories-Adjustable/dp/B01EBXI7PG/ref=lp_2975471011_1_5?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492781141&amp;sr=1-5
Airhose:https://www.walmart.com/ip/11965102?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;adid=22222222227001220049&amp;wl0=&amp;wl1=g&amp;wl2=c&amp;wl3=82850562632&amp;wl4=pla-163086726512&amp;wl5=9016832&amp;wl6=&amp;wl7=&amp;wl8=&amp;wl9=pla&amp;wl10=8175035&amp;wl11=online&amp;wl12=11965102&amp;wl13=&amp;veh=sem
stones(optional): (may come with the pump, but incase not)https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hagen-Elite-Cylinder-Air-Stone/19229845
ultrasonic fogger:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PAK21WU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (you can get the same unit on ebay for under $5)
For the PVC joints and hosing, i would just go to the hardware store and match them up. You dont want anything threaded. I believe the size tubing i use is 1/2". This is something you have to decide on though and it should all be pressure fitted. The hose should fit perfectly in the PVC joint with a small amount of play. What i did was wrap the end of the hose with electrical tape to fill it out just enough that is keeps a seal when I insert it into the PVC joint - like maybe 2-3 layers of tape. This makes it super easy to break down when you need to fill it or work on it.
PVC joints:http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/3-4-sch-40-pvc-22-1-2-elbow-soc-416-007.html (this is a 45degree, you need 1 of these, 2 90 degree and 1 straight.
braided tubing:http://www.dudadiesel.com/choose_item.php?id=HPpvc050-100ft&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw2-bHBRDEh6qk5b6yqKIBEiQAFUz29hKHntmxN-a-cdxDRhJqAHmmI066ShSOIDXMjYX8YTYaAkBS8P8HAQ (You only need like 3 feet of this stuff. i got it from ace hardware and it was under $2 per foot.
I dont have any detailed pictures of it on hand, but i will follow up with some images of it so you get an idea of what it takes. Its very basic and works well.
As for how it goes together, you feed both air hoses into the container and have the stones or the end of the hose just above the bottom of the container. They need to go through the lid with everything else. You also place the fogger inside. the PVC is the exhaust that will fog your tank and bring up the humidity. I will get some pictures tonight and post them sometime between tonight and Monday.
I’ve bought and used at least 3-4 different brands of pumps. The uniclife ones are my favorite for being the quietest and adjustable.
I have the 2.5 watt one but for your needs get the 4 watt one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EBXI7PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vjBXDbG359GX5
The 4 watt pump has 2 outlets, so just get this to run it on 4 tanks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MTD8VPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KkBXDbEKH34BS
The airflow depends very much on the depth of the air exit, example "4-LPM, Pressure: 0.016Mpa." gives some ballpark numbers.
The flow will be 4 L/min when not submersed, deeper than 161cm (0.016MPa) the flow will stop, and should be 2 L/min at 80cm deep.
You can verify that by timing a measuring cup at different depths.
How big is the dual sponge filter? I use one of these in my 10 gallon. On the amazon page, it's rated for 20 gallons and would be good enough as the only filter in the tank. They're nice because you can rinse one of the sponges during a water change and not the other, as to not risk killing off all beneficial bacteria in the sponges.
If you bought the smaller version of the sponge filter, the version with only one suction cup, then I might consider using bother filters. Some will say it may be enough for a 10 gallon but I'm just personally a little iffy on that. It ddefinitely doesn't hurt to use both filters anyway. "Over filtration" isn't a bad thing to do.
i would recommend you go with the other type of sponge filters with a solid sponge with a tube in the middle, but if you have to have this kind, maybe go with this one:
https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/
it has a bigger sponge and more surface area for bacteria to grow.
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these types are better:
https://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78/
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buy an air pump and air tube, connect the air tube to pump and filter. that simple.
This one is rated for 20 gallon tank but since it will not be your primary filter it should suffice.
XY-2822 Air Pump Double Sponge Water Filter for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VAFGKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aC1EzbD46WDCH
Air pump:
Tetra 77853 Whisper Air Pump, 40-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pD1EzbT3HXM4V
I really need some help cycling my first tank! It's 10 gallons, planted, and has a [large sponge filter](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VAFGKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I have been cycling it for close to three weeks now, and my reading for today was about 0-.2 ppm ammonia, 3 ppm nitrite, and 80 ppm nitrate, [here](https://imgur.com/a/DEhuSzn) is my water test result. I know the nitrite and nitrate are way too high, but I am not sure what to do. Maybe my filter isn't enough? Maybe I need to wait more? What level can I add my betta at? Do I continue to add ammonia even thought the nitrite and nitrate are so high? Please help!! I can answer any more questions and add pictures or information that helps, I'm just very lost. I just want Roberto to be happy
I use this in my 5 gallon tank and it works beautifully! A little hard to keep pressed up against the corner, but functional: amazon link. Very useful for small tanks.
Alternatively, there's this sponge filter with two sponges, so you can clean one at a time (swish in old tank water) and prevent from ruining your cycle, but it's big. Huge. I've seen a fair share of books smaller than this thing. I can squeeze it into my 10 gallon tank, though it's an issue of height, not width.
Edit: The dimensions for the second filter are not given. The large, two sponge filter measures at about (not less than) 9 height x 6 width x 2 depth, in inches.
Don't bother buying a hang on back or something fancier, for just snails buy an air pump and a sponge filter. Definitely fill the tank all the way, and you'll want to do water changes every few weeks (maybe 10%) once the filter is in. Do you have any idea what kind the snails are, if not would you provide a picture.
Someone down the thread suggested a bare bottom tank, and I would recommend the opposite. With sand many snails will burrow and forage for food and what not. Also if you get a filter going, then the poop won't settle so much and will also degrade. That way you shouldn't need to clean the bottom, just change a bit of water every once in a while
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521640650&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=aquarium+air+pump&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=417Lgh1JmoL&amp;ref=plSrch
And
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VAFGKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521640748&amp;sr=8-13&amp;keywords=sponge+filter
This filter has been extremely reliable. I have used both this one and the smaller one in my tanks and they've been great.
If you don't feel like switching to a sponge filter, this is the one I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/Azoo-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_5554483011 . It's pretty quiet, and the flow can be tuned down to just a trickle. It comes with an intake sponge too.
https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2
This one? I hear bad reviews... I ordered one of these https://www.amazon.com/Deep-Blue-Professional-ADB88700-Aquarium/dp/B00BUFTI6Q
but I wanna order this one too to compare and see... any reviews on other one?
It would be pretty strong but AquaClears are adjustable so the flow can be reduced somewhat. I've modded one before for a salt tank (actually it was an AquaClear 70 on a 5.5 lol but I swapped the impeller with a 20 and shaved off the notch that keeps the intake tube from being moved all the way to the right to slow flow down; this kept flow manageable so it didn't blow everything away). AquaClears are a bit pricier than other filters but I really like them because it's easy to mod them and you can change the filter media according to what you need in there. InTank makes really nice media baskets that go in them to replace the stock basket.
A better choice might be the Azoo Mignon 150, I get it from Amazon (there is a smaller size but in my opinion it's really a bit too small to go much good; this at least has a little room for filter media). It's pretty perfect for a freshwater 5 gallon.
I haven’t used it personally, but I’m assuming it will could help.
Also I found this HOB filter: https://www.amazon.com/Azoo-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2
The Aquaclear filters are a great HOB filter that is reliable and very generous with the amount of filtration space it provides. There's also the Azoo Mignon Filter which is equally as good and has space in the back for a small heater if you can fit it.
I have always used Fluval canister filters, and they work great for me. You should be able to get a nicely over powered one for even less than that. Here's one on amazon. I have two of them, one on a 70 gallon and one on a 55. One is about a year old and the other is about three years old. No broken parts, but the smaller one did start to drip a bit. It just needed a $10 replacement seal and it was as good as new. Honestly, it was my fault for never lubricating it to keep it from drying out. Other than that they work well. I have duckweed in my tanks and it hasn't let any get as far as the impeller, which would be disastrous.
Also, Sunsun is kind of an off brand but very economical. They come with a low powered UV sterilizer built into the canister which is pretty cool. It does have an on/off switch just for the UV, so you can leave it off until you need it to clear up algae or something. They don't come with any media, just some thin foam inserts that aren't good for much, but overall it is a great value. There is also a lot of room in these for custom media, which is nice. The fluvals have baskets as well, but only for half of the canister and the other half you are limited to using foam strips. The Sunsun is nothing but large baskets filling the canister with a hole down the middle for flow and the UV light. Here's a Sunsun on amazon.
I've noticed prices on canister filters go up and down quite a bit on amazon. I was shopping for one a few weeks ago and saw that the largest Sunsun was about $150. I waited a couple days and it went down to $100 and I snagged it. It just got here and the thing is absolutely massive. Lots of room to play with. I haven't started using it yet, so I can't tell you much about the quality and effectiveness, but all of the accessories (pipes, spray bars, etc.) aren't the best quality, but certainly not cheap feeling.
If you want to really have some fun you could easily build your own canister filter. Just get a wet/dry fountain pump and the proper adapters to connect it to some PVC tubing and some flexible tubing to go up to the aquarium. Get some 6" PVC to use as the canister and some large media socks to fill up and drop in. You can get some bulk foam to use for mechanical filtration and wedge those in there as well. Be sure to add stages of mechanical filtration, getting more and more fine as the water progresses. You can get a power head to pull the water back into the aquarium for about the same as the Sunsun or less. This would probably be the best quality of all the options since you could, if you wanted, have a few feet of of the 6" PVC, holding more biological media than any other canister. Also, with this you could customize the amount of flow, which would be nice for the betta.
No worries! Sunsun is a brand of canister filter, I have a 302 on this tank
http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22/ref=sr_1_15?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417406372&amp;sr=1-15&amp;keywords=filter
Just found this. Well within my price range and a canister. Go for it?
Ahh okay, be careful with used tanks. Inspect the seals and make sure they're all intact and not coming off. Ideally, the guy would fill it to show that it still holds water too.
A drop checker is an indicator of how much CO2 is in the tank. Here's an explanation of how they work:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/26-planted-tank-faq/136571-~explanation-how-drop-checker-works~.html
I'm not sure how well this one would work on a 20g long (the output might be too strong), but it's certainly a cheaper option:
https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22
That Fluval filter is really good. I have the Fluval 406 and it has done extremely well. I know they're expensive but I also have the Sun-Sun HW302 without the Antibacterial UV light inside it on my hatchling tank, and it runs just as great. Here's a link to the sun sun I have.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00892EN22/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453762040&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;amp;keywords=sunsun+hw+302&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41YYhADjDJL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch
And as for gravel, I've never used it personally. The turtles don't care if they have rocks or sand or even just glass on the bottom. It's more aesthetically pleasing to the human owners though, the turtles won't care one way, or another.
We ran our 5.5 gal beautifully with one of these but you need an air pump to run it
Aquaneat Air Driven Bio Corner Filter Sponge Fry Shrimp Nano Fish Tank Aquarium 20 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WP442W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZHnhDbKSFVG4D
This is a GREAT option though and id do this if i did it over again. But one thing is i would remove the filter things inside and replace with a piece of filter foam or just poly floss and some ceramic rings or similar media inside. Floss or foam against the intake grates and the rings behind it. I love these cause theyre super strong little guys and are completely silent
Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter, 10 Gallon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mKnhDbT1RMMTG
This is a great response thank you! I saved an eheim 50w heater that looks really nice and is very adjustable. I'll have to look more into filters obviously I don't want something that'll push him around so a sponge filter sounds nice.
I saw this filter but need to find some opinions on it for Bettas:
https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-10-Gallon-QuietFlow-Internal-Filter/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1477313479&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=aqueon+quietflow
I bought this the other day (10 gal):
https://www.aqueon.com/products/aquarium-starter-kits/ascent-frameless-led-kits
I really love the way it looks. The light is fine for low/medium plants and the filter is fine too although the flow is non-adjustable. I actually swapped it out for this little guy with adjustable flow since I'll have a Betta in here and they don't really like current.
The tank looks really cool in person - way better than the typical aquarium w/ black plastic lid and HOB filter.
5.5 gallon tank: $15
Lid (betta fish are jumpy): $10-15
Filter: Anywhere from $15-$30, I have this one and am really happy with it. You want one that's not too strong (having an adjustable one is nice) because bettas are sensitive to strong currents.
Filter pad: $5ish. The filters you buy usually come with a charcoal-filled custom filter cartridge, which most aquarium people will tell you is useless (and companies tell you you need to replace them every so often, which is bunk too). I have a filter pad cut to size and put in its place.
Heater: Anywhere from $15-30; I'd really reccomend an adjustable one because you can control the temp and they're also less likely to overheat the tank. I have this one which is really popular.
Gravel: I use gravel specific for planted aquariums, which is more expensive, but I can't imagine that regular gravel would cost much more than $5, maybe $10 tops.
Decoration: How much you spend on decor is really up to you. The two things bettas really like for decor are lots of plants (be it real or silk ones, plastic ones will tear fins) and places to hide. For hiding spots you could use terra cotta pots, which are aquarium safe and would be really cheap. You could even split each one in half to make "more" of them. Just make sure you plug the hole at the bottom because fish have been known to get stuck in those. I don't have an estimate on how much the silk plants would cost because I only have live plants, but I'm sure you could buy them used for not too much.
I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I
I adjusted the flow down to about 25% of full power but I think I'll bring it up a little bit.
Yeah I returned the filter today, ended up getting this one instead. So far its a lot better; low flow, dead quiet, and my betta has been right up against it without any problems so I think it should be fine.
Actually, I've had the opposite experience... My filters are so quiet I get nervous. Now I keep duckweed just so I can see the surface agitation.
ETA: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWV4R8I/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539876184&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=aqueon+quietflow+10
If the links are misbehaving, I use Aqueon Quietflow canister filters.
This is the one I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWV4R8I/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499894440&amp;sr=1&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
This is the sponge I put over the return:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CDFU9SW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499894519&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=fluval+sponge
I'm going to make this list assuming that you have Amazon in your area and that either you or someone you know has Amazon Prime. If not, then think of this as more of a template that you can tweak using what you have available to you:
Hopefully you have Amazon Prime available to you where you are, and if so none of this requires any shipping charge. If you do at most this will cost you $115.79, leaving you lots of money to spend on shrimp and plants! Hope this was helpful to you, best of luck!
The sales rep nearly refused to tell me how to shoot him but its not a huge fan of this filter. Now, whether this is football, but I still don't understand why this guy spent a lot better being there in person.
Yes, I'm using a Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano filter and a 50W Aqueon Preset heater. I know they're both way overkill for a bowl this small, but I have the heater on a control circuit of its own to keep from boiling the shrimps if it fails, and the filter is baffled to slow the outflow.
Either that or its not a huge fan of this filter.
http://i.imgur.com/kujrMR6.jpg
2.5 gallon
Fauna: 4x White Cloud Minnow
Flora: Hemianthus Callitrichoides
Cryptocoryne Parva
Marimo Moss
Unknown plant in the back. Trying to find something to fill in the back.
Driftwood: Manzanita
Equipment: Beamswork 12" LED
Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano Filter
Rhinox Glass Drop Checker
Rhinox 1000 Glass Diffuser
Empire Paintball 24oz. CO2 tank
AquaTek Mini CO2 Regulator
AquaTek CO2 Tubing
DIY Teabag + Activated Carbon filter
Plug Timer
Dosing: 0.5 mL/day Flourish Excel
0.5mL/week Flourish Comprehensive
CO2: 8 hours, Light: 8 hours, offset 30 minutes.
I've been using this nano filter on a ~2 gallon tank and it's been amazing. Not sure if you have a flat side to stick it on, but if so, this filter allows you to adjust the flow. It's great.
Deep Blue Professional ADB88700 Biomaxx Nano Filter for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_TRvavb1BCPAVP
There are a couple companies selling essentially the same little filter. They all come out to about this price once you include shipping.
Way too much. Use a deep blue nano filter. More than enough for a shrimp tank. I have 2 zoomed nano canisters and the flow is too much. I use one on my 13 gallon guppy tank and it blows my fry around.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BUFTI6Q?pc_redir=1409141855&amp;robot_redir=1
This one was recommended in the past on here. It's been working great for my little guy in his 5 gallon tank.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
These guys.
http://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-100-Gallon/dp/B00DOG64FM
I EXCLUSIVELY used this for my grow so it's literally brand fucking new. It's "slow" so I filled a large 60 gallon container up and use water from there (I add a bit of hydrogen peroxide to the water occasionally) to keep it clean.
I use this ro unit Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 100-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG64FM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nNXAzbKGERHBZ
I usually get a tds of 11 and the other parameters as stated above. So what's yo with mine? I'm about to buy new filters for it., would that help?
Been using this on a 65 gallon reef for 14 months, replace membrane canister when color change canister tells me, get 0 tds, testing regularly.
Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 100-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG64FM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_--APBbGJ9P3JM
I got this for my setup/drinking. I mounted it to a board and have it dump into a brute 55 gallon trash can.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DOG64FM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Color-Changing-Cartridge/dp/B00DSP57BQ
It works, but..... I'd get the BFS system if I had to do it again. Cheaper in the long run, easier to maintain. More high quality components.
RO Buddie!!! 100 GPD UNDER $90!!
This is an excellent and affordable unit!!!
Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 100-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG64FM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_nBNKwbRYJ9XCZ
Of course you may purchase it wherever you may like, but go with this. There are upgrades you can buy for it as you see fit.
You can try refilling the jugs at the water dispenser usually in front of the grocery store. I purchased a small TDS meter for about $10 to test the water and used it for years.
Ultimately, I had too many plants and bought this: https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-100-Gallon/dp/B00DOG64FM
I have been using it for two years and it is going strong, but probably needs a cartridge replacement soon.
Water filtered using reverse osmosis! It removes almost everything from the water, including anything that might be harmful to your aquarium. An RO Buddy is a cheap way to start with it. Here's the link https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-100-Gallon/dp/B00DOG64FM
I may save up for it in the future, but it's not an option right now. The water is good most of the time, but it gets bad for about 2-3 months after corn is planted... probably a month and a half to go till it cleans up.
EDIT: Actually I went ahead and bought this one.
I got the 100 gpd which is about $90. It's not cheap, but I thought they were several hundreds of dollars.
My well is 550ppm. No metals or anything toxic just very hard. I would invest in a RO system if I were you. This one is a nice price and should be enough for a small grow's water requirements.
If you have a Hang on Back filter, on the intake (er the suction part) I suggest you stick one of those pre-filter sponges on it, I got mine on amazon here (https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Pre-Filter-Sponge-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500061442&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=fluval+edge+pre-filter+sponge), but really if you go to a petstore and find one of the replacement Fluval sponges, you can cut a hole in the middle and then jam it on the intake and it'll keep your little one from swimming up it.
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If your goldfish is super super small, you may want to invest in a sponge filter or one of those filters powered by an air pump that where it intakes the water through a sponge.
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Also as Karloesh said, keep the filter media. In water, preferably in the tank where your goldfish is in so that the bacteria doesn't die off.
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I don't have advice for the spot on his face, but if he has scrapes or something, you may want to pick up some melafix (http://www.apifishcare.com/product.php?id=629#.WWkfroTyuUk) to keep him from getting any infections and to help heal wounds. Make sure that if you have any carbon in your filter you take it out or else the carbon may suck up the medication. Also follow the directions on the bottle.
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Let me tell you that I had a situation similar to that where my baby goldfish managed to wedge himself somewhere and rip a patch of scales off his body and a small part of his tail fin off (and similarly, he still ate and swam and looked okay except for the whole fin and scale issue), but if you do regular water changes (while priming your water), and keep an eye on him while he heals up, he should be okay. It's been a bit over a month since my baby got hurt, but since then he's regrown all his scales back and most of part of his tail that got ripped off grew back. :)
Sand is pretty easy tbh. You shouldn’t have to worry about it blowing around, a betta tank shouldn’t have that strong of a flow. Sponge filter is the easiest option. If you want a HOB filter, put foam around the intake for a [mechanical prefilter and betta fin guard](LTWHOME Pre-Filter Sponge/Foam Set For Fluval Edge Aquarium (Pack Of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aIsNBbGW56V4D)
Just get a HOB rated at 10g or less and that has adjustable flow so you can turn it down. [Aquaclear](Aqua Clear 20 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 20 Carbon, AquaClear 20 Foam & AquaClear 20 BioMax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RKsNBbY81XP7A) and [Azoo Mignon 150 or 360](Azoo Mignon Filter 360 Aquarium Power Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLJ8OFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BOsNBbVM2B6ZN)
Something like this might be better than a 3d print https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J5Z44OE/
> Fluval Fx4
Wow! That was a steal at $150. And the tank leak sucks...
I'll probably get this one It seems to have pretty good reviews and is at a great price point
My external SunSun canister was $80 and has UV. I have an additional Marineland internal canister with a 1 micron “polishing” filter.
Sunsun Hw304B 525GPH Pro Canister Filter Kit with 9-watt UV Sterilizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MH37484/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cY4kDbQB4DE2B
Marineland Magnum Polishing Internal Canister Filter (ML90770) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C8PH0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zY4kDbVHPNC4J
Would this work for 125g? I see that it's for a 150g. The tank is not stocked yet and I am good with weekly water changes. Do you have any other recommendations?
I've been researching canisters all morning and I think if I go ahead and purchase this one it should work for my tank and it's in my price range right now. Does this look to be ok, the reviews seem good?
I'll probably hold off on purchasing the stand still though, I'd like to get one of the one with storage under that looks like it will run my about $200.
I use the SunSun brand and have never had anything bad to say about them. They work really well. I use lava rock and pillow stuffing as media along with my carbon.
Here is a link for the 525GPH sunsun.
SUNSUN 304B
I use this one for two different 55gallon aquariums and it works great.
I wondered the same when I was setting up my 125. Due to my limited budget, I went with one canister. SunSun HW304B from Amazon. It's been great with plenty of flow throughout the tank.
"normal" hydroponics has higher yields due to higher oxygenation of water. If that is your goal by a cheap air pump. This one would do the trick quite well for your bucket.
Might be able to find something cheaper at a local aquarium store. Aim for 4-5 LPM min.
This comes with everything except the flow valve. I haven't used this so I cannot say anything about how well this one works but you can find similar packages online or in pet stores.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EBXI7PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_supnDb2VGYJ68
Misting should be avoided, it causes floods over time and attracts bugs. With the right substrate mixture and a sealed tank your humidity should basically indefinitely stay perfect. Bubblers help raise humidity too.
I felt the same way a year ago when I bought a crab on impulse thinking it'd be a cheap and easy pet to care for. Once the tank is set up, they ARE affordable and low maintenance, which is awesome!
The Crab Street Journal, as /u/picklesfoley recommended, is a great resource. This sub isn't bad, but I find the Hermit Crab Association (HCA) forums extra helpful. They have tons of helpful guides, and the community is super responsive. There are also a decent handful of active Facebook groups for hermit crab owners.
As with any community (especially for pets), you'll probably run into some sticklers who can give borderline-harsh critiques when you ask a question, share a photo, etc. They're usually not wrong, and they usually mean well, but I often feel like their approach is detrimental. Don't let anyone make you feel overwhelmed or like you're doing a bad job. You're taking the necessary steps to create an environment for your crabs to thrive, and that's more than many crab owners can say. Getting up to speed doesn't happen overnight!
A couple of final tips:
What about a small aquarium air pump? People leave these on 24/7 in their tanks without issue
https://www.amazon.com/Uniclife-Aquarium-Outlets-Accessories-Adjustable/dp/B01EBXI7PG
I use the uniclife 40. I have one pump for two tanks. It is powering a large air stone in one, and a decent sized sponge filter in the other. It also powers a sponge filter for my hospital tank when I need it to. At full bore, the bubbles are still louder than the pump. Admittedly, it is on a towel, but still. It is adjustable, down to almost nothing.
Would this air pump be good? Uniclife Aquarium Air Pump 4 Watt 4-LPM 2 Outlets with Accessories, Adjustable Oxygen pump for 20-100 Gallon Fish Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EBXI7PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x9hJBbA0X6KZS
Yass. This air pump installed: https://www.amazon.com/Uniclife-Aquarium-Outlets-Accessories-Adjustable/dp/B01EBXI7PG
It's not dead silent, but quiet enough to run continuously. Two air stones that I can put wherever I want. The water looks healthier already -- top scum is gone -- and no more listening to the biopod's pump kick on HMMMM.
How, you may ask, did I run the tube into the pod? One of the topglass clips arrived snapped off, leaving a hole exactly the right size.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUW/?tag=fishlore-20
https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-50-Gallon/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519069282&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=filter&amp;th=1
I was looking at these two so far, but the 2nd one seems off since its half price the others...
Hm. After 8 months, a cycle should be established, unless you added a BUNCH of new fish all of a sudden or added new chemicals. What kind of filter do you have? If you have filters with cartridges, those can be responsible for mini cycle crashes after you replace them, because you basically throw a lot of your nitrifying bateria out with them. Ideally you should have a 3 stage filtration filter with bio media (bio media doesn't get replaced or cleaned, it just hosts bacteria.) I highly recomment AquaClear hang-on filters
I recommend some real plants too. They consume the nitrates produced after the bacteria consumes ammonia.
Check out the Aquaclear 70 (AC70). In terms of media, I personally use chemipure elite and purigen. I've also seen alot of people mod the AC70 to be refugium.
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-70-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUW
Thank you for the great reply! :) I know already I will feel sorry for the baby fish and the eggs, but nature and its course etc :)
So if one keeps the fry and grows them up... What do you do then? Can someone sell to a store if they're pretty? Not like I'm interested in breeding, just curious.
As for the filter, I was thinking of this one.
What do you think?
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-70-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=fluval%2Baquaclear&amp;qid=1550971911&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Is this the one you’re talking about?
I did some research on this and found many people have problems with sound and the filter draining and breaking. Have you experienced these issues?
Awesome thank you for the help.
Im thinking of switching out my filter and purchasing this one:
http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-70-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457978000&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear
It appears as though this one makes it easier to install the 3 different types of filters rather than the current filter I own.
Can I go ahead and make the switch or is there something I should know? Thanks!
I recently got an Aquaclear model, seems to work well and can accept alternative media.
This one is rated 40-70 Gal; https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-70-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506616335&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=aquaclear
Were you monitoring the ammonia levels while you did it?
Im not sure why your levels are so wonky either, like others said it doesnt sound over stocked..i have a tank with 2 adult axies and my levels have never gotten that high!
Im not sure how your filter looks, but you should try the HOBs that are 3 parts that can be changed/rinsed independently. One of those parts you can even change to be absorbing excess ammonia (what i do for my axies)
Ammonia piece: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003025AVO/ref=sxl1?qid=1465797788&amp;sr=1&amp;refinements=p_89%3AFluval&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
The type of filter it fits in: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FUW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465797869&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=Fluval+HOB&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Rr1kpTVOL&amp;ref=plSrch
I live in New Zealand if I buy this and this will they work in my electrical wall sockets?
When i say whisper im talking about this air pump, powering a sponge
https://www.amazon.ca/Tetra-77853-Whisper-Pump-40-Gallon/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479146453&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tetra+whisper+air+pump
Set up for single Axolotls
Realistic initial start up cost $135
Excluding cost of axolotl
$5-$40 20g tank MINIMUM preferably 30g (offer up, let go, Facebook groups and pet stores)
$1-$70Hides - decor or caves or even home made must be water safe even pvc piping works minimum of 2 (decor can become expensive fast if you want to make your tank look very “pretty”)
$20-$30Filter - something with low current flow sponge filter or a canister filter with something to break up a strong flow if you have a sponge filter you need air line tubing and a air pump
Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oov7AbY5ESARC
Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kpv7AbQ20H9V7
Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hpv7AbC3Y8R2Z
$10-$15 Water additives
Water dechlorinator follow instructions on bottle if the tank isn’t fully cycled use prime plus follow instructions on bottle
API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1qv7AbHFPEHT5
Tetra 77960 SafeStart, 15-Gallon, 50-ml, 1.69-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E2RI74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tv7AbDHHEMEY
$20-$35 API water test kit to make sure the water is in good parameters
http://www.axolotl.org/requirements.htm
API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvv7AbK35G0WW
$2-$10 Aquarium thermometer that reads down to 60 degrees F
CNZ Digital LCD Thermometer for Aquarium Fish Tank Vivarium Reptile Terrarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPXVI94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yxv7Ab1NSQ5H6
$5-$20 Aquarium syphon
Aqueon Medium Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2aw7Ab3Z5KS9B
Feeding
$2.50-$3 Fishing earth worms (Walmart sporting goods section)
$10-$15 blister pack of 30 blood worm cubes (I can sell them to you while supplies last for $15 or you can buy them at any pet shop that sells fish)
Earth worms when they get bigger try to feed them nibbles of a worm like the size of their head and move up as they get bigger and frozen blood worms for first month to month and a half try to feed the earth worms to the axolotls ever couple days by hand until they start accepting them they might start accepting earth worms as soon as a week after receiving them from me (feed frozen blood worms every other day until they are regularly eating pieces of worm )
Maintenance
You can use a turkey baster and clean up their poops as you see them you’ll still have to do water changes but much less water 25%-35% or use a syphon once a week and do a 30%-50% water change along with the water dechlorinator and some of the safe start plus make sure to test the water regular with the api test kit
Keeping the water to the correct temperature
60-64F is the perfect water temp for them but it can be hard to achieve during summer but doing more regular water changes can help with that and putting a fan over the aquarium blowing on it will help by up to 4-5 degrees
NO SAND OR GRAVEL ESPECIALLY NO GRAVEL EVER sand maybe fine once they are 6-7inches but they will swallow it and they can become impacted and possibly lead to death
I have a Tetra 40 running 2 single sponge filters. Set on a towel, can't hear it run at all. $9.39 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YF4FI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
ezpz! in addition to the sponge filter itself, this is what you need:
optional:
suction cups $5.09
splitters & extra valves $6.29 the air pump comes with a control valve, but it's always nice to have extras + this comes with splitters in case you want to use one pump for multiple tanks or to attach an air stone.
You mean like http://amzn.com/B0009YF4FI ?
Tetra 3i
It would. Bit for so etching much larger. That's a 45 gallon tank filter. One like this http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25846-Whisper-BioScrubber-3-Gallon/dp/B000HHQ712/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404539713&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3+gallon+fish+tank+filter
or this
http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25816-Whisper-BioScrubber-10-Gallon/dp/B0002DHYF4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404539774&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=tetra+whisper+filter
would do the trick. The second is for a 3 to 5 gallon, the first is up to 3 gallon. You can get decent fish tank kits that come with a light and filter for around 20 to 30$ at pet smart, but that doesn't include a heater.
Something like this is a decent setup, and as it's a 5 gallon, it could actually be divided to house both fish. All you would really need at that point is a heater, and water dechlorinator.
http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-29003-Crescent-Aquarium-5-Gallon/dp/B00324X5L2/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404540227&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr1&amp;keywords=tetra+3+gallon+crescent
Whisper In-Tank Filter 3i for 1 - 3 gallon aquariums (25846) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHQ712/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T3VRybYRPEM1B
Depends what kind of hood you have on your 2.5 gallon. If I can't hang one on the outside I have used this http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25846-Whisper-BioScrubber-3-Gallon/dp/B000HHQ712/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450762898&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=2+gallon+filter
I have the first tank you posted, it works great! And also, you should consider putting some dwarf frogs in there (maximum two) but probably not any fish. You would need a bigger tank to add some fish!
here's a good tank heater:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-7-5w-Heater-Bettas-Bowls/dp/B006JVQ67K
you're also going to need a filter, even if the people at petco say you don't.
http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25846-Whisper-BioScrubber-3-Gallon/dp/B000HHQ712/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426271069&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=1-3+gallon+filter
I got rid of the under gravel "filter" that came with the tank and installed this one instead, leaving out that stupid plastic tube that came with the tank.
With all of these resources you should have a super healthy happy betta!
I think I might get this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HHQ712/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and put pantyhose over the hole
If you choose to continue using the cartridges but have the ceramic rings in there as well, then you shouldn't need to worry about swapping in a new cartridge when the old one is falling apart because there will be enough beneficial bacteria on the ceramic rings that you won't ruin the cycle.
If you don't plan to keep the ceramic rings then the best option is a small secondary filter, one driven by an air pump is a great option like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000634IYU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498418773&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=small+world+filter) or [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HHQ712/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498418909&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tetra+whisper+internal+power+filter+3i). This way you can alternate which filter you are cleaning.
And yes, always clean your filter media (whether it's a cartridge, sponge/foam, filter fiber, polishing pad, or the ceramic rings) in aquarium water. Best way to do that is remove some water for a water change and before you dump it rinse out the filter media in that container.
I'm using this thing.
It seems like the bubbles going up the clear shaft end up popping at the top of the filter. But it didn't used to be like that until I did a water change.
Another way is a way I figured out recently: Get a HOB filter. They look like this, and are usually pretty cheap for how well they work. Get some aquarium sponge, not kitchen sponge, and cut it in a circle. Then make two incisions in an X shape in the middle and slide it up the intake rod. That'll baffle your filter, and it's cheap. Here is how I did mine.
Im going to guess no, that doesn't mean 40gal, because they don't have a 40gal option I can find and why would they include 0?
Amazon has a comparison chart with dimensions, perhaps that will get you in the right direction.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SP65N8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BnGxDbHK4ESVA
it's this one: https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-QuietFlow-Aquarium-Power-Filters/dp/B000SP65N8
I have a 10 gallon tank that is about to be fishless (moving the only inhabitant to a different tank, a small Panda Garra that was in a transitional period to change its diet) and I want to try Shrimp.
Would this work for some Cherry or Ghost Shrimp?
Alright that makes a bit more sense, I have an Aqueon Quiet Flow 10 found here http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06080-QuietFlow-Filter-100GPH/dp/B000SP65N8
I replaced the blue biological insert at the end with a peice of filter sponge to diffuse the current into the tank and create more biological filtratiion
Well, it does is a hard challenge for a beginner, but doing a properly carpeted nano-Aquascape (~20l <=> ~5g <=> ~2.0 × 10^-2 m^3) with DIY CO2 and a small sponge filter is doable in <150$
A quick, small suggestion:
Tank, ~13l <=> 3.4g, 40$
Soil, 20$
Light, 40$
stones, 25$
Filter, 10$,
1 pot Monte carlo or some other easy carpet plant at your lfs: 8€
We‘re left with 7$ for ~4 RCS, I guess.
I assumed you construct you DIY CO2 from an old bottle with sugar and yeast, so 0$ effetivly.
For cycling and food some free samples of fish food does the job. When food rots it emits ammonia, that could be used for cycling.
So here we go, every thing ready for a nice iwagumi-aquascape. If you do well, it might looks like this (That Tank has HC as carpet, but Monte carlo looks similar)!
Well, if you‘re willing to put up a dozens of hours on studying to to properly keep a planted tank.
edit: Wrong link for tank, this was the one I mistakenly linked to. Still a nice, small tank, tho. Also some additions for clearance.
Hello! I love bettas! They are awesome fish to upkeep! They also have the most interesting personalities! (I swear the one I have in my bedroom stares at me sometimes when he's extra hungry)
So just to make sure I am getting this. You are saying that fishless cycling should be keeping the tank at 2-4 ppm (what is ppm?) ammonia for 24 hours. So basically I'll add 2-4 ppm(s) of 10% ammonia (which I find by doing the shake test, if it bubbles it's good if it doesn't bubble it's not, correct?) and after 24 hours if the tank doesn't read 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and 0 nitrates I should put another 2-4 ppm(s) in? Also, I purchased [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SP65N8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) filter and I now see that it has carbon in it. Should I send it back and get a new one? If yes what do you suggest? Also, when buying pebbles from a bag, should I soak those like people soak drift wood to clean them or are they good to go right into the tank? Sorry for all the questions I just keep thinking of them :P.
Scrub the algae from glass,
Do a 50% water change,
and slap this bad boy on:
AA Aquarium Green Killing Machine 9 Watt | Internal UV Sterilizer System with Power Head | Kills Algae, Bacteria, and Waterborne Pathogens | Easy, Submersible Installation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KP9B2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cZTADbPAPNRC8
It will turn ur water crystal clear in 4 days. Thank me later
http://www.amazon.com/Green-Killing-Machine-Internal-Sterilizer/dp/B001KP9B2W
If a black out and water changes didn't help, this is a sure fire way to solve it
Here's a UV Sterilizer on Amazon for $40. I don't know anything about this particular product. Shop around, check out reviews and keep your tank size AND future proofing in mind if you decide to go this route.
I have never even heard of Hygrozyme. I have one of these on the way.
http://www.amazon.com/Green-Killing-Machine-Internal-Sterilizer/dp/B001KP9B2W
UV Sterilizer, Now I know I am going to hear a bunch of "your killing beneficial bacteria" people.
AA Aquarium Green Killing Machine 9W | UV Sterilizer, Internal Tank Cleaning System with Power Head | Algae, Bacteria, Yeast Water Filter | Easy, Submersible Installation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KP9B2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9BhaBb0RGP9XA
I think if I do get it, I would ge tthat one,
I think you are talking about this
https://www.amazon.ca/Aquatic-Changing-Deionization-Cartridge-50-Gallon/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474475175&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=RODI
If you are looking for a small RODI I purchased one off Amazon for $50 at the time. IT works great and I have not had any problems with it. It has gone up a little but still an excellent value.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00204CQF6/?coliid=I3LCUW6P1PNM08&amp;colid=2256ZMASSX6OZ&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I have been looking at CO2 injection, anything you could suggest? It completely confuses me
EDIT: Would something like this work if my rtap water has phosphates?
the place i got them goes by purewaterclub now, but i saw this one and i'd order it if i was ordering them now, the color changing DI filter is good to have.
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Changing-Deionization-Cartridge/dp/B00204CQF6/
I'm looking at these two RO systems. Should I pay extra for the four stage model at the cost of half the GPD?
4 stage 50 gpd includes deionization filter
3 stage 100 gpd
It will last indefinitely in a sealed bucket, but you don't want to agitate or heat it. The only danger is that alkalinity will precipitate out over time...you might want to test before you use it and adjust back to your desired range.
&#x200B;
Just FYI, you can get cheap RODI systems for $60 and make it yourself too.
If it's not rated for Aquariums, then it's probably not going to work. I would recommend instead looking at the RO buddy system on Amazon.
EDIT: Link
There are some pretty cheap RO or DI water systems that you can get on amazon. I got my DI system for $60 here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_umJSDbKVPYZFZ
It just hooks onto your faucet (you have to remove the aerator from your faucet, which is just the little mesh screen thing at the opening) it's worked great for me since I live in a tiny apartment and can't re-plumb anything.
My water hardness is about 10 to 11dKH. Is it worth getting an RODI unit to help soften the water to provide better conditions for plants? Amazon has ones for $60 that look good enough.
I have good lighting, co2, fertz and all that. The hardness feels like the last hurdle.
BRS has good videos on RODI units and ROBuddie has their own video in setting it up properly.
here’s a link to amazon It looks like its $59.99 right now so it’s a good price.
All my test kits are API. How often should I add the remineralized RO water to replace the water I have in there currently?
I'm looking at inexspensive R/O units on Amazon currently and just ordered some salty shrimp GH/KH. I appreciate your advice.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00204CQF6/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
I got one. Best decision ever
I was in the same boat as you, paying ~$1 a gallon for distilled water, as none of the local supermarkets had RO fill-up stations.
I bought this RO/DI system off of amazon for $60.
I've used it for a few brews now, and have had no issues. It's been putting out about 3 gal/hr for me.
It'll pay for itself after the 8th brew or so.
From what I understand, yes... This one is often recomended
I used an airbrush compressor, but its probably overkill. The important aspect isnt the pressure, but the volume it can pump (GPH). Though I'm not sure how much you actually need.
Amazon would be the place to look for those. Something like this.
Got this pump (https://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-728450-Single-Outlet-Commercial/dp/B002JLJC0W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481570695&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ecoplus+air+pump) and 2 additional airstones today.
Each bucket will have 2 of the large cylinder airstones.
My question is: Is it best to have 2 air lines running to each bucket or can I put 1 airline and T split it into the 2 airstones? Does the efficiency change if I split it in 1 line vs 2 lines?
I run this air pump on 3 6ft tanks and 2 smaller ones. Each tank has a fx5 1 sponge and airstone. Air stones will be switched to sponges in the near future.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JLJC0W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468031340&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=eco+air+pump&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41o1RHxarXL&amp;ref=plSrch
If was to go just running sponges I would 4 or 5 for each tank and run a much larger air pump.
I'd say head toward solar + batteries (or even just a battery array charged from your normal home power supply). I've done a lot of thinking about the same requirements because I also have frequent outages where I live
A storage tank would work, but only for a short time. Most AP systems at your scale use a 300-900 GPH air pump, but from http://www.binks.com/resources/tip-of-the-week/how-much-compressed-air-is-stored-in-a-storage-tank
> If you have an 80 gallon tank pressurized to 150 psi, the tank would store about
> 880 gallons of air. This is typical of a two stage compressor. A single stage 30 gallon
> compressor common to the big box stores usually maxes out about 110 psi and
> would hold about 300 gallons of free air.
It just wouldn't deliver what you need for long enough unless you scale up a ton.
You'd need something like 1300 AH of battery capacity assuming the following
-a 24 hour power outage
-an air pump that uses 30w 0.3amp 120v (e.g., https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLJC0W)
-constant 24 hour usage of that air pump
-no recharge opportunity (no solar panels/generator or worst case cloudy/snowing)
Back of envelope estimations done using https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html and https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/ac-to-dc-amperage-conversion-run-through-an-inverter.html
Runtime gets much better if you use a timer to run on a cyclical basis, if you assume solar panels are available during the day, etc
An air pump similar to this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLJC0W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1.
I had a shittier pump with one stone for a while in veg. The plant started dying before my very eyes one day, fuck me, right?
The only thing I could think of was more oxygen. Guess whats better than 1 shitty pump, that's right, 2 shitty air pumps. Good thing I had a spare with another stone.
Plopped that had boy in the res and I had fresh new roots popping up everywhere.
I ended up losing a few branches but the plant kicked ass anyway and covered half my 5x5 at the end of flower.
For my next grow, a too powerful air pump, a handful of air stones, and an r/o filter will help keep things fast and smooth.
I have this one, but I got it when I was using the nozzle style air assist, so I think it is more powerful than I need with the tubing. It is also kind of loud, I only turn it on when cutting. I use silicone tubing, the same as used on the water cooling, to bring the air to the laser head. Using a drag chain to support it.
if you want run all those buckets, its better to get a upgraded air pump, some thing [like this](https://amzn.com/B002JLJC0W
)
EDIT: was replying to two threads and got them mixed. For a filter for a 5 gallon tank you'll want a Finnex
Or Marina S10
Ha! I actually already ordered that exact light a few days ago. I've been debating what filter to get, I was thinking something like this.
I have this filter https://www.amazon.com/Marina-A285-S10-Power-Filter/dp/B0032G8TPW
I have one plant in there, I can't remember what it is I think it's an Amazon sword or something, I remember getting the recommend kind for my type of tank. I have no idea how many I need or what to do for them though.
This is the sponge filter I currently have - SPonge
This is what I was looking to get (not at all sure) - FIlter
I forgot the exact name of the catfish but I believe they are Panda Catfish - or look very similar. This is 1 https://imgur.com/OkgmIJj the other one look exactly the same but about half again as big.
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I hve 2 air pumps. 1 came with the 3 gallon tank set up I got on Amazon - see Here (just realized its a 3 gallon not a 5)
And then I purchased an air pump - Pump
And maybe I got the name wrong for the glofish, the pet store I could swore said neon tetra on the tank but I have those and definitely not that - https://imgur.com/8xNmjPi .EDIT- You can see them better in the OP picture if you click on it. Reason I ask is because my Betta was going after them the first day and they seemed SUPER chill. I haven't seen them try to nip at anything so far. Although its been 3 days. Also the catfish was in the tank w them so I figured they would get a long.
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OK so the guy in the petstore told me i can have up to 20 fish in the 10 gallon. It's a private store not petco or petsmart/petland etc. Is that not the case then? I don't want to crowd my tank I was just planning on getting 2 more colors of the "Glofish" and that was probably going to be it.
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Thanks!!
I've got a Marina Slim filter with 3 cartridges you are supposed to replace . I usually replace one every week. Should I just be rinsing it? It's not cheap.
I'm not 100% sure but as far as I know that would just aerate the water rather than filter it. Bettas breathe oxygen at the surface of their water so extra aeration is unnecessary. There's also sponge filters that use bubblers with tubing and those are supposed to be great but can take up a lot of space.
I have only used hang-on-back filters because they don't take up space inside the tank. This is a well-reviewed HOB filter that would be hella dope for your tank and totally budget-friendly. It has an adjustable flow but if it's still too much for your betta just look up "DIY filter baffle" and you can baffle it up so it'll be nice and gentle.
NINJA EDIT - Also since you don't have a cycled filter yet make sure to do lots and lots of water changes. If you can test the ammonia, do it frequently. Your buddy can survive a cycle if you are consistent with water changes. Like a gallon every 2 days or so. Take out a gallon, treat a fresh gallon of water from your tap with conditioner, put it back in. Buy a $2 bucket from Walmart, don't use an old one because CONTAMINATION!
Yeah I do have it pointed to the top, but it seems a bit underpowered. What would you recommend? I was looking at this Also a local guy gave me a bottle of start smart saltwater aquarium instant cycler... Do you recommend that or should I just wait it out.
To start with, a canister and a sump together are overkill for a tank that size. Overkill isn't really a bad thing when it comes to filtration.
Your diagram makes sense, and your plan seems fine. If you haven't yet, check out this post about sumps in general, but it seems to me like you have the concepts in hand.
I'm guessing that you mean surface skimmer/overflow in your diagram where you have "skimmer/intake" listed. Freshwater does not need protein skimmers, they don't work in any way as effectively as in saltwater.
You don't need to hook the return (what you call outflow) to another powerhead, you can just use a U-pipe to flow into the tank.
What you'll want instead of another powerhead, if you find you want more flow, is a circulation pump or two to move your water around.
Let me know if I misunderstood you or if you have any more questions
Would an aquarium circulation pump work?
As for the temp, why not plug the fish tank heater into an STC 1000?
2 of these, 2 of these.
no dead spots. just enough water movement. crystal clear water.
Lots of good advice in this thread. If I could add my 2 cents. I will occasionally make a liquid food mix with some shrimp powder and do a direct feeding with a feeding tube. In my 20G tank I've got a circulation pump to keep the flow rate up for it, but that might be a bit much in your 10G.
Hydor Koralia nano 240
I was battling hair algae in my 20long and loosing, mostly in part because of running a sponge filter and having dead zones. Deep cleaned and added this powerhead, now I can visibly see the algae die off. I think the 240g perfect flow for a 20long with tetras.
One thing I've seen over and over is that Dwarf Hairgrass needs pressurized CO2 in order to get an established carpet so you really might want to consider that. Our set-up consists of an AQUATEK CO2 Mini Regulator, 2 Empire 20oz CO2 Tanks (which are the same as what they use for paintball and very cheap to fill - and they last for months), a Reactor 100 diffuser (our Fluval broke...sucks), a Fluval 88g Bubble Counter, and a Fluval CO2 Indicator Kit. You'll need airline tubing too and a drop checker. It very simple to set up and use, if you'd ever consider it and your hairgrass would love you for it...but it really looks like everything in there is thriving so nicely!
Hairgrass also needs light so maybe cut back on whatever is blocking light from getting down to the hairgrass. If you do go with CO2, make sure you shut it off when your lights aren't on, since the plants can't use it without light and watch the indicator so you don't gas your tank and fauna. CO2 would also help regulate your pH, which your shrimp would love. Mine holds at a steady 6.8.
Maybe you could cut back your sword a bit and plant some of the runners in another tank, or if you don't have one, maybe you have a friend that would like some?
I think your tank looks great, a little jungly, but I bet the shrimp love that! Love your variety of Fauna!
Good luck!
I am currently using the Fluvial bubble counter. Any recommendation on using a bubble counter that gives bigger bubbles?
http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462553909&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=bubble+counter&amp;refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
theres a super good diy set up thats super cheap. Baking soda +water then in other bottle citric acid and 3 parts water with hoses and valves built in. Let me know what you think of my list and let me know if im missing anything if you dont mind
Diffuser System
glass co2 checker
drops co2
bubble counter
The glass spiral diffuser
I have no idea how this stuff works but it's pretty cool!
Ahh, I see. So something like this https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=sr_1_7keywords=Inline+CO2+Bubble+Counter&qid=1567725222&s=gateway&sr=8-7 would be better? Thanks a lot
EDIT* If I do decide with the rhinox bubble counter, could you link me a coupler or adapter?
Ah yes, you will need one of those. I was viewing those links with my phone and I thought the indicator was the bubble counter. I'm sending out a few items from the post office tomorrow and I have this Fluval one that I'm not using. I don't mind sending it over to you if you're in the US. PM me. It would be my good deed for the week :)
Do you have links for exactly all of the connections? I'm getting really tired of all this algae and really want to start a carpet, so C02 here I come.
EDIT: Once again, google has proven very useful lol
DIY kit
Diffuser
Bubble counter
I tried it a few times without a bubble counter but wasn't able to. Ended up with this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GCPM6K/
I started with DIY CO2 before switching to pressurized. I used one of these little valves sitting infront of a bubble counter. It was by no means perfect. And the valve was always real sensitive once it started holding pressure behind it, but once it was holding a little pressure, it did keep the flow of CO2 relatively consistent. (And by pressure, I'm not talking like an actual pressurized tank. It was enough that if you opened it all the way is went "pffft") I figured that it kept the release of gas steady while the yeast's production wasn't always perfectly consistent throughout the day. I wouldn't treat it like an on/off solenoid, but you can at least keep a more consistent output that when it builds up overnight, your fish will be able to survive.
looks like "melt"
I advice a simple DIY CO2... seeing what my plants did after struggling for ages is wonderful.
just need a few cheap amazon parts to order and sugar, bit of baking soda yeast and a cpl old lemonade bottles.
You'd be golden and hitting your head why you didn't do this before.
Is that the same thing as this?
http://www.amazon.com/Drop-Checker-Indicator-Aquarium-Diffuser/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411949320&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=drop+checker
I'm not sure I really understand them.
Short tanks are tough for co2 for that reason, totally understandable. What I recomend is a finer diffuser such as This one
Place it low, under the bulkheads for flow.
It shouldn't be very much co2 at all for the 5 gallon, and most micro bubbles SHOULD dissipate before the surface tension breaks.
Check your variable PH With This to make sure enough co2 is being dissolved and replace the solution about once a week.
Edit:
In addition, make sure to only run co2 30 to 60 minutes before lights come on until about an hour before the lights go off. Plants don't grow at night.
Oh! Also, let's see a picture of this tank so we can save it later for a program pic!
https://www.amazon.com/Sera-Flore-Active-CO2-Reactor/dp/B007A0PI0U
The only other thing you would want is a drop checker to have some type monitor of the co2 level in the tank.
https://www.amazon.com/Rhinox-Glass-Drop-Checker-Kit/dp/B005C74ZCA
Ok I kind of figured. That was the only one I saw at the price.
Do you think this 4 in 1 diffuser would be good? I have a 6 gal fluval tank this will be for.
Yosoo U-shape DIY 4 in 1 Co2 Diffuser for DIY Co2 System Check Valve Bubble Counter Planted Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YA5L0TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iqh6AbKMCAJR5
And this air line
UEETEK 5 M Silicon Aquarium Pump Hose Standard Airline Tubing with 2 PCS 4 MM Aquarium Check Valves for Aquariums Fish Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072NB7NXP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Qrh6Ab4KB4WW4
May get another larger tank later down the road to move this setup to, not sure though.
Edit: oh and would I need one of those glass drop checkers like this:
Rhinox Glass Drop Checker Kit - 3 Seconds to Read CO2 levels - 3 Minutes to Setup - Fastest way to ensure sufficient Co2 in Planted Aquarium - Includes pH Reagent indicator solution & Color chart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1sh6AbJ3EP8Q1
Not saying you can't use that one, just not familiar with it. I know for certain that there are no openings on a sponge large enough for fry to get into. While yours is probably safe, I can't say that with any certainty. Sponge filters are standard for fry tanks and are very inexpensive. I use this one on a couple of tanks currently: https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI
That could be good enough, but I like to over-filter so I'd buy this one is bigger and, though it will take up a side of your tank, I believe it is better. The lift tube goes up higher so it has more pull and you can bury the bottom tubes a little into the sand to make it look better.
I have both and I like the bigger one better. Think soda can vs 1/2 of a red bull can.
Lighting is great, but pricey. My roommate and I just use a lamp with a high-temp (light temp is in Kelvins ~6000 is good).
Heater looks great.
Good luck!
(read your other post and I'm not sure about a pump but that one will get you by for at least cycling. If you want to upgrade, pumps aren't that much so no worries)
So two of these, one of the air pump you linked, and some air pump line will be enough filtration for 29g?
It's a 2.5 gallon tank, divided in half up to about 6 inches by some craft foam, sealed with silicone caulk (it's give or take a gallon of water).
It uses one of those tetra whisper filters powered by an air bubbler.
the ground is made up of about 3 inches of gravel for drainage, under 3 or 4ish inches of coco coir dirt, and that's covered up by some sort of a moss (it was given to me when I received an enclosure for one of my tarantulas, the previous owner was keeping toads, I figure it's frog safe moss). They've got a little rock in there to hang out on, and that plastic cup is a small tupperware thing I use because dubia nymphs and dwarf white isopods cannot climb out (The frogs have been eating heavily out of it, so they've figured it out, I was worried they wouldn't explore it). The dirt has been inoculated with dwarf white isopods mostly to keep the enclosure free of frog poo, but also for the smaller guys to scavenge (though I don't count on that as a primary food source)
In the top right corner I have a little sump pit of sorts, constructed out of the same foam, hot glued but not sealed, so water will drain into it, so I can run a drain hose in the event my divider ever leaks.
What do we think? I was thinking of putting a cheap fish in the water as a sort of miners canary to let me know if the water quality goes south
like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Rhinox-Glass-Drop-Checker-Kit/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=asc_df_B005C74ZCA/
If you feel like keeping the sponge out and providing more overall area, you can get a hob. The Azoo Mignon's will fit this easy, used to have one on my 2.5.
link- https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1535951500&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr1&amp;keywords=azoo+mignon+g
I would suggest two Sun Sun canister filters. More capacity than the hang on the back filters, require less maintenance, and are much quieter.
You'll likely get away with opening them to service/clean once per four to six months.
Throw a sack of Seachem Purigen in each canister filter, and a bag of carbon.... you'll be golden.
https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw304B-525GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MH37484
I personally use Fluval canister filters, but they are essentially the same thing.
Poolsand/playsand is fine if you like that look. Just make sure to rinse it a bit.