(Part 2) Best automotive replacement filters according to redditors

Spark plugs diy: https://youtu.be/-SelzJ5YUTA

Cabin and Air filter diy: https://youtu.be/saf1K5_ne18

Cabin filter you need ($8) :
EPAuto CPJ6X (KD45-61-J6X) Replacement for Mazda Premium Cabin Air Filter includes Activated Carbon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWV2W5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D5qhDbW5XVH0V

Air filter you need ($15):
ECOGARD XA6280 Premium Engine Air Filter Fits Mazda 3, CX-5, 6, 3 Sport https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8IP28G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M6qhDbKWRM26A

Spark plugs you need ($40):
NGK 94124 ILKAR7L11 Laser Iridium Spark Plug, Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DMFGYRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F7qhDbM7RD9W0

• Dogbone insert.
  
• Replace any non-LED with LED bulbs.
  
• Change color of LED bulbs for interior (i.e. I got red footwell LEDs)
  
• Clubsport S Center Caps (have a red ring around them)
  
• Tint (find a shop that does triangle windows w/o removing trim or charging extra)
  
• New tires
  
• New lightweight wheels (something flow formed - Neuspeed/Konig/etc)
  
• Add a rear lip/spoiler
  
• Hardwire a dash cam (highly recommend this) or radar detector.
  
• Drop in panel air filter like AFe DryFlo/Remove snow catcher in intake
  
• Automatic hatch pop kit (USP's kit is best), though they're sort of meh and require extra force to close.
  
• OBDEleven
  
  Some would say JB4. I would fall into that group since it is removable before any necessary dealer visits.
  
  Invest in oil change supplies because it's so simple on this car and you can save yourself a good bit of money vs paying someone. Buy some things in bulk and you won't have to worry about not having them when the time comes and you'll save some cash. I have 2 MK7s and by doing this, my changes cost me about $30-35/ea and take me about 20 minutes, which is less time than most people will spend driving to the dealership.
  
  
• Fluid Extractor or catch pan.
  
• 4 Pack of Plugs Replacement oil pan plugs if you're doing catch pan drain method vs extractor.
  
• 3-pack VW Genuine oil filters
  
• Mobil1 0w-40 VW502.00 Spec Motor oil rebate is ongoing through October. You can get 10L for about $24 give or take. Walmart has them for $22.xx per 5L jug. NAPA also recently had singles for $5/ea, may still be ongoing.

Buy a catch can ASAP. If you're 100% set on buying the SP, order a Billet Technology one now (if you want that brand, fantastic quality) as the delivery time is insane. I ordered mine the day before I took delivery of my SP and it took over ten weeks to get it.

Buy a replacement air filter, I'd suggest the K&N (only because I have it, there are plenty of dry ones you can get as well) just a piece of mind thing. It has a rebate right now so you can pick it up for $34 which is awesome.

I would also suggest to swap out the brake pads if you know how. The stock brembos are great but they are noisy (they squeal before they are heated up) and create a TON of dust. I'd suggest PowerStop Z23/Z26. I personally went with the Z23s, seems silly as your pads will be new but you'll thank me later. The lack of dust is incredible and they stay super touchy.

Are you planning to order your SP? I'd highly suggest the Plus Group and I'd even consider the adaptive suspension. (though I've never used it or experienced it I think it would be neat) The dynamics package isn't really that important unless you're planning to track the car (the 4 piston brembos stop the car on a dime) and you can stick a 275 on the stock rims.

Cheap, easy, and butt dyno approved:

• snorkel delete (free, but pointless without a high-flow air filter)
  
• AEM AE-20993 Dryflow air filter ($41 from Amazon)
  
• add an FSWERKS polyurethane insert to the rear motor mount ($13 from Amazon)
  
• lunchbox delete (ie. remove the muffler, costs about $20-25 to extend and redirect the exhaust pipe)
  
• enable Sport mode via FORscan (free if you already have an ELM327 OBDII USB adapter with MS-CAN/HS-CAN switch, though you would need to put in a SelectShift knob and possibly do some re-wiring if you wanted manual control over shifting)
  
  Are you going to turn your SE into an ST? Nope. But hey, you're spending about $80. You could throw another $462 at Tom's tune (comes with an SCT X4 tuner, which is why it's so expensive). It will improve performance; whether or not that improvement is worth the money is up to you. It might also help with shudder if you have it (and if you don't yet, you will, so get ready).

Green filter

Clutch Spring

Short shift plate

FL400s oil filter

Shift knob (JBR)

Rear motor mount (Mountune not really cheap))

Here's also a list of the mods, how much, and where I got them.


Visual

Black rims $192.25x4 = $769
Window tint $180
Spoiler $100
Side Stripes $30

Tail light blackout $20

Sidemarker $15

Rear Decal: $50

345/Hemi Emblems black $34

Plasti-dip for Decals $6.00

Rock Guard $60

Engine

Air Filter+Recharge $63

Oil Catch Can $150

Other

Tazer+Bypass $300
Atturo Az850 275/40R20 $127.55x4 = $510

Mid-Muffler Delete $163

Haha, that's some interesting stuff they want you to pay for. Firstly, check your maintenance schedule on page 11-6 of your owner's manual or here: http://cdn.dealereprocess.com/cdn/servicemanuals/chevrolet/2013-volt.pdf

In that maintenance schedule, with the Volt, the only thing you should do yearly or every 7500mi is rotate your tires (assuming you don't use winter tires in the winter). Oil change is done whenever your oil life system tells you to do it--make sure your dealership reset yours to 100%! You can ignore the every 45,000mi maintenance (inspection unnecessary, engine air filter DIY I'll explain below). The only things you have to do are the 97500mi spark plugs/transmission fluid and the 150000mi fluid flush.

As for the $400 your dealer wants:

1a. The cabin air filter is an interesting one because the 2013 Volt doesn't have a cabin air filter installed standard, so it's not a maintenance item. That said, it's a good idea to buy one and replace it yearly if you don't want to breathe dirty air, at the expense of probably <1mi of range due to having to blow air through it. This one is $11 from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/TYC-800149C-Lacrosse-Replacement-Filter/dp/B0041TOQ92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496421699&sr=8-1&keywords=2013+volt+cabin+air+filter and it takes 1-2 minutes to install with a flathead screwdriver, super easy process, compare that to what your dealer wants for the part+labour.

1b. If they meant engine air filter, which is every 45,000mi, that one's somewhat easy to do too, check here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-syZ7b5Q3I or page 10-13. The key to this one is NOT to buy it, either third party or from your dealer, until inspecting it--I was due for a change recently, opened it up, and what do you know, it was almost spotless! I just shook it up and put it back in, good for another 45,000mi. Only replace it if it remains dirty after shaking it off. Heads up: if you ask your dealer to do this, or if you're there for anything else, it's a common trick by dealers to take it out, cover it in some dirt, and come show it to you saying it needs to be replaced, far above cost of course.

1c. If they meant oil filter, that should have been done with your oil change.

2. Brake fluid flush is done at 150,000mi. I would strongly doubt that you would need it before that unless you've been having brake problems. In fact, I'd suggest against doing it unnecessarily in case they screw something up, brakes being serious business.

3. Air Conditioning fluid a) needs to be refilled when low if your air conditioner is failing to cool, i.e. if you set it to 'Comfort' and 'LO' it blows hot air, b) needs to be flushed and replaced every 10 years--seeing as you have a 2013 Volt, they're bullshitting you.

Overall, if you're not at 150,000mi, I think they're deliberately trying to screw you out of money here. AC flush is a money grab unless you specifically mentioned a problem. Air filter may or may not be legitimate, but at any rate you're MUCH better off doing it yourself.

Clean looking ZJ! Congrats!

Do you know any of the maintenance history? If not, I would suggest changing all fluids and doing a tune up before doing any upgrades/mods.


Fluids

• The 4.0 seems to love Shell Rotella 10W30 - either T (Conventional) or T6 (synthetic) its up to you and use a quality filter - Wix, NAPA Gold, Mopar, or Motorcraft FL-1A
  
• Drop transmission pan and change fluid and filter - ATF +4 only No additives or anything else. Adjust the bands and TV cable (link below for TV adj.)
  
• Drain and fill the transfer case - Selec-Trac transfer case (NP242) and Command-Trac (NP231) get ATF +4 also. Quardra-drive (NP249) gets a special Mopar fluid
  
• Drain and fill both differentials - if you tow 75W140 full synthetic in rear 75W90 in front, otherwise 75W90 in both
  
• Drain and fill coolant. Zerex-G05 is now the OEM coolant, but you'll be fine with the old school green fluid. Also a good time to look over the condition of the rest of your cooling system. If you're running below 210 you're going to want to put a 195 thermostat in - running to cold causes tons of problems
  
• Siphon out your power steering fluid - either through the high pressure hose, or with a turkey baister. Use only Chrysler approved fluid not ATF. You'll need to burp the system after by turning your wheels lock to lock several times and topping of the fluid
  
• Bleed your brakes! These brake lines are prone to rust already, and brake fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere over time and they will rust from the inside out. spray the bleeder screws with PB Blaster a couple times a day for a few days before you get started to free them up - Check your pads, shoes, drums, and rotors too!
  
  
  Tune Up - This is what I'm currently running in my 4.0
  
  
• Champion copper spark plugs
  
  
  
• Denso wires
  
  
  
• Accel distributor cap with brass contacts
  
  
  
• Accel Brass rotor
  
  
  
• Accel Ignition coil
  
  
  
• Bosch air filter any paper filter is fine though
  
  
  
• gates belt
  
  
  
• Clean the throttle body and IAC
  
  
  
• Adjust the Transmission Throttle Valve Makes a big differnce in shifting
  
  
  
• Clean the Grounds - #1 in the "Dirty Dozen" list below
  
  
  
  If you do all that, and you have any issues with stalling or hesitation from the engine, This should be your bible - The Dirt Dozen
  
  Your ZJ will be running like a top, and ready to lift, modify and most importantly be reliable when you get out there to wheel!
  

That's really really nice! I bet that will keep the filter staying a lot cleaner on top of lowering your temp a good amount. You could probably even get some insulation around that box to keep it cooler from engine temps. I like how water has room down below the intake to go if it gets in there. I'd still throw one of these on personally, just cheap insurance.

I went with this AEM filter because it's closed. Seems to work well + has the advantage that it's a dry filter so it's easier to clean.

The snorkel delete shouldn't really change the temp of the air coming into the intake, you're just taking off a piece that restricts the flow.

That's why you don't use that stupid screwdriver trick. It kinda works on filters that aren't stuck. It just makes an oily mess and fucks you over when the filter is actually stuck.

Rip off the can, pull off the filter media, and get down to the plate with holes in it. Use that screwdriver like a punch and hammer it against the side of a hole to drive the plate around and unscrew it. Don't dig into the filter base, and make sure you clean up any metal debris you leave behind.

In the future use this to get filters off. Mine has never failed me. It'll crush the filter smaller and smaller, but eventually it stops crushing and starts turning no matter how tight it is. The worst stuck filter I ever had never broke free--I tore the base off the side of the block. But at that point it needed a new base anyway.

Never spray peroxide on the cakes and always let it sit for 24 hours before you add cakes to the environment it takes 48hours before it converts to just water.

I've never had any issue soaking with a little peroxide but the key is to let it sit for the 24 hours and don't wait longer or the peroxide is all gone and it was near pointless to add it.

It's almost the exact same one from Midwest I just find two tubs at Walmart the outer/bottom one is filled with enough water to cover the heater with 2 inches extra. The top/inner tub is where the cakes go. I have two setups one for incubation and one for fruiting. The only difference is the fruiting one has a hair hose and perlite base. This is the filter for the air, it let's you see if it's clogged or needs to be changed.

Hepa Sanitary Air Filter (In-line) (1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QXRD3NA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qn7OCbXZAZYPV

The fuzz is just mycelium growing at the base I never worry about that.

Surely! I have 6-gal plastic carboys. I currently have a carboy cap that has a racking cane and a filter on the other end. The end of my racking cane tubing is attached directly to a barbed disconnect on the liquid post. I still use gravity but I get the siphon going by blowing through the filtered end of the carboy cap. I actually am purchasing this today to replace the filter so I can use pure CO2 to push the beer from my carboy. Just know if you use CO2 to push the beer from the carboy to keg that you need to keep the pressure very low as the carboys are nor pressure retaining vessels.

I have to give credit where credit is due though. I built this after seeing /u/brulosopher 's kegging method

Good luck! Oh also, you can pick up OEM oil filters off of amazon for pretty cheap too.

https://www.amazon.com/2015-2016-Volkswagen-Filter-Replacements-GENUINE/dp/B00LMGORXC

No problems so far, but since I was already putting some dynamat in the cowl to cut down its noise a bit, I built a little "wall" next to it to divert water and put on a waterproof sock just in case.

K&N VF2054 Cabin Air Filter, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077TRBD8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iVq1BbR3FACH5

I have had this for a couple months now. Works great in my 2018 limited

They're nice filters. Super cheap on amazon with next day shipping as an add-on item.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FL400S-Oil-Filter/dp/B000AS3D42/

That, with full synthetic oil at $28, makes my oil change just over $31.

I think it all depends on what your goal for the vehicle is? Do you plan on tracking it? or just to make it a bit faster around town? Do you want it to look a little modified or stock?

Anyways, I'll link a bunch of stuff I personally prefer and in the order I would install them...

Accessories:

• Ford ST Heavy Duty Floor Mats (I live in a snowy climate)
  
• Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12in Subwoofer (600w RMS) w/ Rockford Fosgate Prime Amplifier(Class-D 1200w) + Speaker to RCA converter
  
• no-pistons Dead Pedal, Battery Tie Down and Gas Pedal Spacer (not sure if still available but I have access to a water jet and a machine shop so I might make my own)
  
• Rally Armour Mud Flaps (helps with the salt and grit from plow trucks in the winter)
  
• Tow Hitch + Cobb Exhaust Hanger Kit
  
  Step 1:
  
  
• Cobb AP with Stratified tune
  
• Green drop-in filter
  
  Step 2:
  
  
• Cp-e RMM
  
• Boomba Transmission Adapter Plate (short-shift)
  
• Boomba Transmission Cable Bracket Bushings
  
  Step 3:
  
  
• Cp-e Front Mount Intercooler w/ Stratified tune
  
• Bilstein B14 PSS Coilovers
  
  Step 4: (all maybes)
  
  
• Turbo-back Exhast (not sure which yet)
  
• Cp-e Ram Air Box
  
• Velossatech Ram Air Intake
  

I got this guy right here - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B90NGBK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_TeZRub1BHQW7X

• It will require modifications to work though on a 97+, I didn't have the time to do it so I gave it to my mechanic and he did a fantastic job of installing it. Essentially what mods you'll need to make is -
  
  

1. Fabricate a cover for the old intake, the one provided doesn't work.
   
   
2. Modify where the snorkel enters the fender, the washer fluid bottle is in the way on 97+
   
   
3. Cut a hole in the back of the airbox, and put the new tube in through that, rather than the factory intake.
   
   I have specific directions in a .PDF, PM me your email if you'd like them.

Most Honda fanboys rave over using the A01 (Filtech) filter vs the A02 (Fram), but here's a teardown video so you can make your own decision: https://youtu.be/qpzykhkH1oo

Link to A01 filter deal: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009K4H42Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yEk3BbYQYE1Z6

this one. I have one too.

Sorry if I was misleading. You're right about the price. $20 was the price for the volvo part.

Here's the one i bought for my volt

I have a 2016 base model SR5 and first i installed the TRD Cold Air Intake and with just the intake i felt like i could feel the difference in power, you can definitely hear the difference from the stock intake to the TRD CIA.

Its supposed to give you better MPG but because of the sound it makes when you really step on it you wanna floor it all the time so my MPG went down lol.

Then i got the Borla Catback exhaust and honestly its only a little bit louder then stock but you can hear the difference and it did add a little more power i feel. I researched on some different forums before i got it and it seems like a good amount of people preferred the Borla over other brands.

Supposedly if you do those two mods together it can add anywhere from 5-20 Horsepower. For both mods it set me back about 1000 dollars. Heres the links to wear i got them.


"Borla 140379 Stainless Steel Cat-Back Exhaust System"

https://www.amazon.com/Borla-140379-Stainless-Cat-Back-Exhaust/dp/B0046ZCAWG

"Genuine Toyota Parts PTR03-89100 TRD Cold Air Intake System for Select 4Runner and FJ Cruiser Models"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007W69P7E

Or get the same thing in Gearwrench for $24

TRD intake

Looking at the model numbers from other brands I confirmed that the '18 & '19 utilize the same Air & Cabin filters. If you want a more reputable brand for an aftermarket filter you can use the K&N gear.

Cabin Air Filter:

https://www.amazon.com/VF2054-Cabin-Air-Filter-Pack/dp/B077TRBD8G

Best oil filter you can buy

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AS3D42?cache=7f64b7e7e11b780165e3b3122a2984f7&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1413471655&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I replaced:

1. driver and passenger side valve cover gaskets
   
   
2. driver side valve cover (FINDAUTO Valve Cover 13264-EA210... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y1Q3C5Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) (because I broke my original one trying to replace spark plug hole seals)....I recommend replacing both valve covers because those center seals are probably cooked if you’re anywhere near 100k+ miles—and they’re non-serviceable on the frontier’s cheesy plastic valve covers.
   
   
3. all 1-6 spark plugs (check that your ignition coils are also good while you have them out.)
   
   
4. Air plenum and throttle body gaskets (you can get them both as a kit) Vincos Upper Intake/Plenum Gasket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKQBLM1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
5. Air filter: Bosch Workshop Air Filter 5486WS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VC1Q0Q4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
6. Engine air cleaner intake duct (mine were cracked): Engine Air Cleaner Intake Duct... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7V2ZX6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
7. Pcv Tube (I might be misnomering this part)— (breather tube between the two valve covers. Mine was completely dry rotted) Part No.: 11826-EA200 nissanpartsdeal.com
   
   
8. Two intake valve timing control gaskets (p/n 23797-ZA000 nissanpartsdeal.com)—mine were cashed and you have to take the air Plenum off to replace the passenger side one, so you might as well do it while your Plenum is off. You have to remove these valve control modules to remove the valve covers anyway, so replacing their gaskets is a no-brainer.
   
   •••••••••
   
   
9. My next project is to replace my oil cooler gasket:
   
   MAHLE Original B32573 Engine Oil... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184JRWN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   Mine is pissing oil.
   
   •••••••••
   
   I also replaced my number 3 ignition coil. Mine was bad. A mechanic did that one for me. It’s a pisser. 🤦🏻‍♂️
   
   ••••••••
   
   If you need a good low-force torque wrench, I recommend this: TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M12284X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   It’s only 1/4” drive, but it works very well. High quality.

Yes, the diesel engine oil. Some people also swear by Mobil1 synthetic to cure lifter tick.

Here's more about the T6: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=587262

People really get into oils: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=667908

I also use Mazda's OEM filter, which Amazon has for around $10.

$10.74 right now, thats US though not CAD.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mazda-B6Y1-14-302A-Oil-Filter/dp/B004HLDR3A/ref=pd_bap_rp_4/141-9494483-9418522?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004HLDR3A&pd_rd_r=49809123-8b63-4fa7-8fca-a2d5c7e8243e&pd_rd_w=255QY&pd_rd_wg=2OvJm&pf_rd_p=789b26ea-0889-4949-95a5-7a0a291f1eb1&pf_rd_r=45V6W9XFXBQ793F6YG27&psc=1&refRID=45V6W9XFXBQ793F6YG27

I use the Fram Fresh Breeze cabin air filter, has Fabreeze in it, made my car smell nice and fresh.

https://www.amazon.com/CF10709-Fresh-Breeze-Cabin-Filter/dp/B004IZWMD6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481085341&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=farm+fresh+breeze+cf10709

Like others have said it's very easy. Here's the filter I always use from Amazon for $13.50USD.

I've done a cowl intake, using this kit: https://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-9948-Intake-Cherokee/dp/B005M1ZBGA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Spectre isn't making it right now, iirc they were working on redoing it. That was several years ago, so who knows. I love this kit, got it after I was above the headlights in water and hydrolocked. I don't like the look of snorkels so this was fine for me.

Yeah, it's the Spectre Performance 9948 Air Intake Kit for Jeep Cherokee 4.0L. I picked it up locally from Craigslist early on after I bought my XJ, was one of the first handful of mods I did. It uses the Spectre Performance HPR9833 Air Filter. Fits over the valve cover with no issues.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I8IP28G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are not the same but if you punch your car details into Amazon it will always tell you if the part fits or not

This is the 2.0

Here ya go!

Here is the mobile version of your link

I have a little pancake compressor in my shop I got specifically to dust off electronics. I use it occasionally for other jobs, but it's primarily a duster. I just use a short hose with a moisture trap installed inline.

I just couldn't stand buying canned air anymore.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B90NGBK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are back in stock on Amazon

A01 being counterfeit?! That's not good. Saw on Amazon a seller by the name of Aracoware selling the seemingly original Honda filters.

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-15400-PLM-A01-Oil-Filters-Case/dp/B009K4H42Y

The reviews seems legit.

Regarding Bosche selection, it's only because it's has Filtech labeling on it 😑 so in my noob mind thinking it would be comparable to the OEM.

Regarding the fitting, I've read that oil filters aren't a universal fit so that's why I'm asking.