(Part 3) Best bike components & parts according to redditors
We found 4,409 Reddit comments discussing the best bike components & parts. We ranked the 2,345 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
If it didn't already come with one, you're going to need the coveted donut top cap to finish it off right.
Don't invest any money in this bike. Change the brake pads ... that'll get you some better braking power, but I would not put a penny in upgrades.
Ride it as-is until it breaks and then toss it. Even the most basic maintenance service on this bike will cost almost as much as the bike itself.
Edit: for brake pads, get a set of kool stop salmon
My husband bought and used these. They fit well and worked for him
Definitely. I'm really surprised that is missing with everything else looking class. https://www.amazon.com/Bikelangelo-Donut-Designer-Headset-Stem/dp/B01B4DRCCU
omg even if you don't get the seat, do you have the donut stem cap?
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
the donut stem cap?
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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot
You might want to invest in these. They might not be too pretty, but they give perfect chain tension and alignment.
I agree with all of that.
I would just add that bar ends are an economical option for adding more hand placement options to an MTB, without having to swap handlebars/shifters/brake levers.
Most people would opt for a standard bar ends to give you that on-the-hoods/bullhorn hand position. Add a cheap set of foam grips, and install these angled up so that your wrist is straight when riding.
If you want the feel of riding down in the drops, then there are also drop bar ends available. These will require grip tape, and should be installed flat or angled very slightly up.
This is what you'll want to use: Amazon Link
https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Chain-Tension-Adjuster-Black/dp/B001GPJY1O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466108843&sr=8-1&keywords=chain+tensioner
Nothing special https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KS3RFQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_Wz9EDbA8M1QJY
I am planning on a 20 mile ride ride and my hands were looking for another place to be so for 15.00 bucks, this really fits the bill.
Nice find! I even raced one of these for a bit. It seems like it's been sitting for a while. I would replace:
http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Mitts-Handlebar-Shifters-Externally/dp/B00380H7PK
So /r/bikewrench and /r/bicycling are much more active sub-reddits that you may see more attention on, but I can try to help you out here.
Switching the bars could require a few things:
Stem Size and by extension handlebar size: the Escape has a stem made for 31.8mm diameter handlebars with pretty large bars actually. Most drop bars you find will be 25.4mm at the stem and 23.8mm everywhere else. Any discrepancy can be an easy fix with some shims (either bought or made). It is also possible (according to Sheldon Brown) that your current bars may have very similar sizing to standard drop bars. The stem may also need to be shortened or lengthened to comfortably accommodate for the new handlebars and riding positions.
Braking: As you may or may not have noticed most drop bars come with brake levers that allow you to access the levers while riding on the drops. This is important because it allows you more leverage at the moments when you are going the fastest. Check out this image stolen from 'Lovley Bike' that shows the typical 'breaking on the drops' position.
While it is not necessary to have these brakes and the 'hoods' that accompany them it is an excellent idea and gives more hand positions! Alternatively it is possible to use levers only on the flats of the drop bars (but not the ones you currently have may need the aforementioned shims).
Shifting!
I see the Escape has Shimano M310 trigger shifters. Those also may have to go. They, like the brakes, can be mounted on the flats of the bar but it is only very low end bikes that do this to their riders. There are an ungodly number of ways to incorporate shifting on a bike with drop bars. You can integrate them into the brakes with STI's, stick them on the end of the bars with Bar End Shifters, Get them onto the stem like many vintage bikes Stem Shifters or get them on the down-tube for a classic look Down Tube Shifters...
That aside the only real options up there that you have for a conversion are Bar-end or "Brifters" Brake/Shifters...reusing your old ones could work but it would be inelegant.
Geometry MOST IMPORTANTLY! Your bike was designed to be ridden upright, the stem, top tube, every inch of the bike assumes the rider is using flat bars. There is no telling really what the ride will 'feel' like after you start riding on the hoods/drops. Its not as bad as most hybrids with front suspension but I could not tell you anything about how it might feel once the swap is made.
For moving forward I see a few options
Option 1 Quick and Dirty Get some drop bars and some old cans. Strip your current bars of components and install the drops(don't forget shims), If sheldon is correct about the size of over-sized road bikes all your old components should slide onto the flat part of the drops and just fit. It would be a unique way to ride but mostly functional...Personally I would have concerns about how safe it would be.
Option 2 More hand positions!
If what you want is more hand positions don't overlook bar end attachments:
Bar end attachments
Orgin 8 might actually have the answer to your prayers: Bolt On Drops
Option 3 Dress her like a roadie
Trying to make your hybrid into a road bike is usually not the right way to go but...with $10-30 for bars, and $100 for Shifters and Brakes, plus $10-20 for complete re-cabling across the bike (MTB and Road bikes use different cable ends) and of course labor if you aren't that handy. Tack on $10 for bar-tape to make her pretty and comfortable and you aren't that far in the hole.
You don't get off any easier for Bar Ends once you get the appropriate brakes its about the same. All that and your former hybrid could pass any scrutinizing test of a lycra-clad cyclist, you'd have yourself a certified road-bike. No promises on comfort!
This is just a vague indication though! For a real in-depth price assessment and Q&A please visit your local bike store
For my $00.02...Don't bother trying to convert them. Ride the bike you have the way it was intended to be ridden. If after a while you still feel like its lacking, throw on some bar ends for more hand positions, Still feel like its lacking? Go test-ride some road bikes to see if riding on the drops is right for you. I'm not talking about a test ride around the parking lot either! No less then 3 miles on that sucker, get a real feel for it. Love it!? Sell the Escape and do a TON of research into inexpensive road bikes. They are out there waiting for ya.
Yes, I'd recommend getting a pedal like these or these for your commuter. Both are SPD with one side for the cleat and a platform for when you're not wearing cleats. Feel free to shop around for the best price, I just did a quick search on Amazon. I have the M324's on my commuter and have no complaints. The A520's were the other pair I considered when I went into the shop a year ago for this.
For the roadie I'd recommend something like the Shimano PD-M540
For commuting purposes I'd also recommend getting a pair of shoes for mountain biking. These tend to have the cleat within a recess which allows you to walk more comfortably from your bike to your desk when commuting. I'd highly recommend going to your LBS and letting them know your intentions. They should be able to find you a pair that fits you well. You may decide you want road shoes which is fine if they fit well and you don't mind how it feels to walk in them.
Of course, having road shoes are more ideal but if money is tight and you're not quite ready to drop the money, then this will save you from having to drop money on an extra pair of shoes. For reference, I commute 5 times a week and do additional cycling 4-6 times a week. I hear some people complain about "hot-spots" but I have never had any problems with my SPD mountain bike pedals and bontager mountain bike shoes. It has been close to a year since I bought my pedals and shoes though and I think it's about time that I get some road shoes and road specific pedals--mostly because I'm tired of my shoes getting wet during my commute and then having to put up with them being wet when I'm on the trainer at home.
I strongly recommend getting some barmitts. https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Mitts-Handlebar-Shifters-Externally/dp/B00380H7PK They are really easy to put on and take off. They make riding a lot more comfortable -- especially if you're going to be on the bike for a long time. They allow you to wear thinner gloves while still having warm hands. By wearing thin gloves, you're less likely to have sweat build up and ruin the insulation's capacity.
I also think it's a very good idea to get shoe covers. These are fine: https://www.amazon.com/KINGBIKE-Cycling-Overshoes-Resistance-Windproof/dp/B07H7J4JPV/ref=sr_1_3 They help a bit with water/slush spray and quite a lot with cold/wind.
derailleurs used to clamp on to the back portion of drop out. there are adapters for one's that don't have a plate and clamp. the listing doesn't show the rear part but something like https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-Shimano-Compatible-Index-Hanger/dp/B001PT8M8C
Just so you know those shifters are pretty sought-after and go for decent money on eBay. They work awesome, keep them, but when you move on from this bke you can probably get your $60 back pretty easily.
That said, your easiset upgrade is to change the brake calipers. Some good reliable brakes are the Tektro ones here, but then you're doubling the cost of the bike. If you have a bike co-op in your town go see if you can get a decent used set.
Whatever else you do, change the brake pads. These are ultra cheap and formulated to work with steel rims. You can check with a magnet if your rims are steel.
These are my go-to pads. I had a hybrid commuter for 3 or so years (Marin Muirwoods). Didn't have a computer, so I don't know how many miles they lasted, but I would get around 9 months of commuting out of a set before they needed to be replaced. They held up pretty well in the snow and ice, too.
A thread I can answer! I wear the same helmet as you, and I love it. During warm weather, I wear giro cycling shoes, and either leggings or shorts under a dress. Sometimes I'll change out of the shoes and leggings when I arrive, depending on how fancy I feel. I also wear this "hip pack" (fanny pack) pretty often for holding my phone/cards/keys/bike lock.
In the winter, I wear these shoes with winter shoe covers, lined leggings with waterproof shell on top, and a down jacket with a waterproof shell on top as well. I don't even bother looking cute. I also use bar mitts which are a lifesaver. I keep 3-4 dresses and one pair of shoes at work to change into.
My commute is around 10 miles one way.
My style has definitely changed since I started cycling everywhere. I swear by natural fibers and tend to wear more swingy, loose dresses. I find that in general I tend to look less put together than before.
The rim is fine, take a scotch-brite pad with some soap and water and scrub it down.
Replace your pads (from what I can see, they'll be these)
Note: That groove on your rim is a wear groove. When it disappears, you're rims should be replaced.
I linked this in another comment. This is the seat that I use and it's extremely comfortable. It's also the top seller on Amazon with 4.3 stars.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cloud-9-Bicycle-Suspension-Tri-color/dp/B000H87PUI
Yup layer layer layer, and take it easy, the wind chill can ruin you :P
Also, these are popular for winter, in combination with a pair of all season gloves. I'm thinking of getting a set myself for the cold months.
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Mitts-Handlebar-Shifters-Externally/dp/B00380H7PK
I mean.... it very well could be, but they also make tape meant to look like that (this being very similar to Ops). You can get all kinds of colours. Generally called "splash bar tape"
You can get a friction shifter, which is non-indexed. That way you can use whatever number of gears you want without having to worry about it again.
Shifting is more clunky with a friction shifter, but once you get used to it it's fine. As a bonus it's easier to sweep gears faster.. so if you are in a high gear and need to come to a quick stop, you can shift all the way to the lowest/tallest gear really quick.
I use this style:
https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86/
They use a cheap and ugly clamp, but you can take it on and off without removing your other stuff. Also works with whatever style of handle bars you have.
cloud 9 bike seat for 25 bucks - your butt will thank you!
If you have sinus problems & access to power running a small humidifier with essential oils (Rosemary, Eucalyptus, Peppermint) makes a huge difference.
If you're sensitive to noise (or camp with a sound camp on the esplanade) silicone ear plugs are amazing for sleeping. Instead of sticking them in your ear, you use them like putty to seal your ear canal. Way more comfortable, and lets you lay flat against a pillow. Usually they're reusable, on playa each pair tends to last one night.
For you ladies... a sheewee and a pee bottle is the way to go. No more late night trips to the portapots. I have this one because the open design lets me clean it with a baby wipe. Make sure you practice at home first.
Here's what it looks like with those pedals
Another shot
Also I goofed. They aren't M520 pedals, they're M324s --> Amazon Link
You can probably find them cheaper on eBay or Merlin Cycles.
I commute too, and I'm going to suggest the two things I've done. The first is to get a bell and ding the shit out of it all the fucking time. It seriously gets people's attention. The second thing is to replace your front brake pads with KoolStop Salmon pads. The salmon pads squeal like a motherfucker, and are also fantastic at getting people's attention.
I feel your pain. People just don't pay attention to cyclists, and then they act like we're the assholes.
edit: added link to brake pads
Imrider Lightweight Polyamide Bike Pedals For BMX Road MTB Bicycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ILX7OGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yi9RCbSSPR7JP
These are what I use and have no complaints. The bearings probably aren't as good but otherwise they're grippy.
THE WRENCHER: buy some cheap friction shifters. Use the brakes levers in the kit. Be happy.
Thanks! They're Weanas Vex Gel SuperSuede Handle Bar Tape
I don't think that's a 28" wheel. check again, old bikes are 27", new ones are 700mm, mountain bikes are 26" or 29".
Tires: Paselas used to be cheap and good 27" replacements at $15 each but the prices have gone up. CST brand on amazon are cheap chinese ones. Bell has these kevlar lined for $15
https://www.amazon.com/C638-Wall-Wire-Bike-Black/dp/B0037N32QQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485405078&sr=1-7&keywords=27%22+tire
add 2x 27" tubes (700cc ~28-32mm tubes might work) for $4
Diacomp brakes: $6.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJZ2S8/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item
brake and gear cables and housing: $6
https://www.amazon.com/PITCREW-500-Cable-Change-Kit/dp/B002GCALOU/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485405425&sr=1-1&keywords=bell+brake+cables
Bottom brackets needs sweat equity, repacking with grease and wash out the crap.
So you're looking at $50 in materials and about 2 hours of time. I've done this on an old 27" bike and still had stem shifting, man when you get the opportunity finding a decent STI shifting bike on craigslist for $200-300 would be a great value to keep your eyes on.
Don't upgrade anything more on this. god help you if it's a french bike with french threading.
I have this knock-off one on my fat bike. Half the price, does the job of any other stem cap. Bonus - they accidentally stuffed two in the envelope, when I wrote them to return they said to keep it.
I bet it's seized in there. If the vice grips fail and the screw is too mangled, cut it off and just use the bigger chain tensioner grease up all the threads so you don't have a similar problem with things seizing in the future.
Unfortunately you can't easily make the handlebar higher easily You could use something like this
https://www.amazon.ca/Delta-Cycle-TD3318B-Bicycle-Raiser/dp/B000FGYKWS
As for the fork the adjustment just locks out the suspension is all.
Still it's a great find for $60.
Your 'turkey legs' are the older road bike brakes with the 'suicide levers' that curve around so they are reachable from the flat section of your drop bars, yes? in that case, No, you cannot install v-brakes, they require your frame to have canti studs to mount them to. Your frame likely does not have these. You can greatly increase your braking power with a set of dual-pivot caliper brakes (likely long-reach model is necessary), a newer set of levers can help power and comfort greatly as well.
Weanas Vex Gel SuperSuede Bike Bicycle Handle Bar Tape Wraps with Bar Plugs (Mixed-Color) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0BPPN6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
It's not super cushy, but it is pretty awesome.
Sorry for my noobness, but are you talking about something like this? I have the same issue as Schmackelnuts, and don't have the money for a new bike right now, so I'd like to make my hybrid more comfortable.
Look for a saddle without padding. Padding feels nice at first, but as your sit bones sink in, your perineum will sink into the padding and you will feel sorer for it. The springs might be OK for your purpose, especially if you are sitting relatively upright.
I'm guessing you are a man. If so, you will want a narrower and longer saddle than the Bell GelTech Ultimate Comfort Bicycle Seat that you linked to. Saddles are about the most sex specific part of a bicycle - men and women have quite different pelvises and other structures where the saddle fits in - so look for a men's or gent's saddle.
A quick search at Amazon found the Velo Bio:Logic Bicycle Saddle, which looks like it might work for you. It is longer and narrower than the one you had and appears to have no gel padding.
I bought the same bike a few months ago - I love it! I'm also pretty new and after a few months went clipless. I went with these pedals and these cleats. The nice thing about this combo is that whenever I have an "oh shit" moment I'm able to unclip without thinking about it. I haven't been outside of my state (MN) for MTB but we have an IMBA model trail and quite a few trails in the twin city area.
With snow coming to your state maybe eye up a Pugsley or Mukluk - I'm going to head out for my first snow ride today!
I don't see any particular problem with the length of your commute. You can ride any bike longer distances, and the Soho has all the nice features for doing so - fenders, rack mounts, enough speeds to get you over the hills. The only issue I could see with it is a lack of hand positions. That could be easily solved with a set of bar ends or a different set of bars. A good bike shop will swap handlebars for you, maybe at a slight upcharge for the price difference. I found a review in the comment section here that suggested moustache bars or I think another good option would be some Titec H-Bars.
I really can't see any other issue with the length of your commute on that bike. For myself, the lack of hand positions would be the killer. I have some carpal tunnel problems (too much wrenching on motorcycles and cars) that can't handle the same handlebar position for more than 15 minutes. Flat bars are fine for short commutes, hence why a lot of the reviews you are seeing are commutes under 10 miles.
This is similar. This too.
I had the same question a few years back and the general response was that it was too expensive to do since it would require new brake levers, cables, etc. I now have a proper road bike in addition to my hybrid but in the interim, I installed some bar-ends. They are excellent at adding an addition 1 or 2 hand positions which both will alleviate stress in hands/wrists and give you more leverage in climbs. These are the ones I have on my hybrid.
http://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-Boxer-Bar-Black/dp/B001KS3RFQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408539699&sr=8-2&keywords=bar+ends
Good luck!
agreed with everything everyone is saying about MTB cleats. Road bike shoes/pedals are slightly lighter and slightly stiffer so racers use them, but for the rest of us MTB gear is cheaper, tougher, allows you to walk around in the shoes, and you can get awesome pedals like
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-Pdm324-Single-Sided-pack/dp/B000NORMU4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408832144&sr=8-1&keywords=m324
so you can use one side for your commute in flats and the other side for proper cycling. Happy riding!
This might work for you. Its smallest gear is 13t but does have a 28 T gear. They make a 14-34T as well.
Shimano Tourney 7-Speed Freewheel
Thank you so much. I found a pair on amazon for 45 - just didn’t know if they were any good. Shimano PD-M520L Clipless Bike Pedals 9/16in
yeah, exactly what u/stewmeatsundays has said, watch vids and rewrap the bars.
I personally like the Arundel cork bar tape.
Also, for older braking applications, I would recommend better brake pads like the Kool Stop Conti and you will also need a 4th hand cable puller, like this IceToolz unit.
The alternative would be to fit some long-reach modern dual pivot calipers like these Tektro r559 which come in nutted fitment to suit your frame.
nice looking bike btw, I love a Shogun. Had a Samurai until a few mths ago when it had an argument with some idiot in a Camry...Samurai lost
Upgrading it will be quite expensive. However, it'll provide you with a wealth of knowledge, frustration and, at the same time, fun.
Depending on your existing hub, you may or may not need a new hub to put your new cassette on.
With a wide enough range of gears on your rear cassette you can get away with a single chainring, so there will be no need for a new crankset/front derailleur/front shift lever.
As /u/fclbr said, you can choose downtube shifters in order to keep your existing brake levers. There are also bar-end shifters, and if you go for a single chainring, it won't be that expensive.
All-in-all, consider if this bike's right for you, size and geometry-wise, as your decision may be a bit rash. If it is, then I'd say go for it.
Rear derailleur - $20
Cassette - $20 - I recommend going for the 34t max sprocket. It'll allow you to stick with a single chainring
Bar-end shifters - $55 - they are 9-sp indexed, but they also work in friction mode, which allows you to freely adjust your gear
Downtube shifters - $14
Cables/outer cables are negligible costs.
If you have a flat bar then getting some bar ends like this can make those uphill climbs a lot better
If you winter commute or need to ride in below freezing weather, I'd recommend these
My favorite review on amazon:
​
Yes - these are ugly. Yes - children will point and laugh when they see you. Yes - your hands will stay warm.
Out of those three statements ... only the last one matters.
These are great - buy them.
I have outdoor research point n chutes but i dont think they sell them anymore. I wear those into the single digits. About then is when I put a light (40-50 degree) glove on inside of those. That will take me down into the negative degrees at least long enough for me to commute to work.
I definitely recommend the 3 finger or lobster claw style. It gives you the ability to use the shifters while keeping your digits together.
Ive also seen a lot of bike messengers use bar mitts. I dont recall what temperature they go down to but they seem like a fair idea.
If it's using bar-end shifters and doesn't have bosses for downtube shifters, your best bet is going to be to use some friction thumb shifters. Unless it already has indexed shifting, the chances of an indexed shifter working on the existing derailleurs is pretty low.
Ok interesting. Considering your current high gear of 14 tooth and 7 speed configuration, you probably have a freewheel system on your rear wheel, as opposed to a cassette, two different ways of mounting the rear cogs. You probably won't be able to get an 11 tooth cog that some have suggested on your wheels as it is. There are 7-speed freewheels with a 13 tooth high cog, which could give you almost 8% more top end if you need it, though, and they aren't too expensive. Those freewheels need to be replaced every so often, maybe swap it in next time you replace the chain. Swapping out the front chainring is possibly an option, but it is more complicated because of a lot of factors, and possibly not really a practical option for you without replacing a lot of stuff. (RD Chain Wrap Capacticy, Chain Length, Crank BCD, FD Max capacity and position, ask your bike shop)
I think that if you are really enjoying the fun and utility of riding, you could be well served by eventually buying a nicer bike. You will gain a significant amount of speed from a bike that is a little lighter and more efficient with some better quality parts, and ultimately for less money than trying to upgrade a lot of things on yours. The current sweet spot imo for price to performance ratio for a general purpose bike is around the $650-$800 hybrid range, with 9x2 or 9x3 gearing and probably disc brakes. You can probably eventually pick one up used for 60% new price if you keep an eye on local classifieds.
I got this package for $20 on ebay http://www.savannahtrading.com/images/DURASET.jpg - 2 sets of pads and a pair of holders. Not highway robbery but still silly considering it probably cost $1 to manufacture.
My next pads will probably be Dia Compe. http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-Grey-Matter-Brake/dp/B001CJZ2S8 2 pairs for $8. I had something similar before and don't recall how they performed but am pretty sure they were no worse than the salmon pads.
Aluminum rims.
Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/Weanas-SuperSuede-Bicycle-Handle-Mixed-Color/dp/B00K0BPPN6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1549339759&sr=8-13&keywords=bar+tape
Kool Stop Salmon pads are debatably the best budget caliper brake pads. (available on amazon, as well as most bike shops)
try removing the pads from the brake to compare, as they come in various shapes and form factors, though typically either an 'insert' that is hammered in with an awl, or a pad with a screw on it that can just be threaded on.
it may also be worth watching the park tool brake video for handy tricks on how to set toe-in (avoid squeaky annoying and save wear on the pads) as well as any adjustment settings you might desire.
the form of brake on your bike, the direct pull caliper is adequate for long pull bike levers, and offer a large amount of braking force for a small amount of movement at the caliper, but the biggest pain I've experienced with them is when one side doesn't pull as much as the other, requiring you to remove it so you can place the spring on the next peg and hope its enough adjustment
you might try the planet ars (https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Anatomic-Relief-Bicycle/dp/B000C17L2W?th=1) - with cutout. The cutouts relieve pressure in all the areas you want and the cushiness is a nice compromise until you get used to riding more.
Profile Design Boxer Bar End (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KS3RFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1.Bpyb9TJ8ZBK
While some shifters are better than others, at this price point, they all will be about the same. If you want thumb shifters, that is a perfectly valid choice. There are also some trigger shifters out there, as well as grip shifters if you wanted to keep that style. As long as the shifter is shimano compatible, and 7 speed, it will work with your current freewheel and derailleur.
>As for what you described with the current drivetrain, what i think I'm seeing you suggest is 'clip the front derailleur off/remove it, leave the current crankset on with the chain at the middle gear since even though not optimal it current funds can be better spent elsewhere.' Am I reading that right?
No. The bottom bracket axle length will determine how close to or far from the frame the chankset is. This article on Chainline may be of some help.
What I was suggesting is that you can still change the crankset, and leave the derailleur in place as a chain guide (tighten the limit screws to ensure that the derailleur is centered over the chainring). They make purpose built chain guides, but the derailleur is already there and will work, so free chain guide.
As far as the rear derailleur, you have a claw mount derailleur, so for anything "better" than what you have, you will need an adapter. As far as upgrading the derailleur, I would personally go for something along the lines of the Altus M2000 or Acera M3000. Note that these are "9 speed" derailleurs, but the cable pull is the same as 5-8 and the shifter dictates the "speeds" shifted, so they will drop right in.
Pedals, Rockbros are the current king of the inexpensive. They come in a few colours, so you can match that to your taste.
Weeding the bad out is sometimes as easy as reading reviews, yes. However, look beyond the amazon for reviews. I generally prefer a video review, so I frequent YouTube for them, but google/duckduckgo can usually find a few forum posts as well that will answer questions.
It is also sometimes as easy as knowing a trusted name, and using their part over a shady one. Shimano and Sram parts are usually trusted and reliable on the drivetrain. Rockshox, Fox, and Manitou are good for shocks and forks, but Suntour is also sometimes good. There are more brands that are great, but on the low end price point, just play it by ear.
That is funny but I agree. That saddle is way too wide and way too padded.
I went from something like hers to this off a post on /bikeit. My ass has definitely thanked me for it.
Here's a
Sheldon BrownTom Deakins article about handlebars and hand positions. You should definitely read it!I can only ride a bike with a straight bar for 15 miles or so without serious discomfort in my hands due to a lack of different hand positions. 20 miles becomes crippling pain.
Some people with the same problem have had great success with ergonomic grips similar to these
Others like some type of bar ends like these so they have variable hand positions. I have something like these on my mountain/beater bike with straight handlebars and they help maintain my comfort level tremendously when on that bike.
Some people really love trekking bars since they offer many hand positions and usually work well with the shifter and brake-lever components that come on bikes with straight bars, so the cost of changing things is minimal compared to changing to something like drop bars that usually need different shifters and brake levers.
For what it's worth, once I went to drop handlebars (i.e. "the kind that curl around") I haven't had a single problem, and I can now ride all day without any hand discomfort.
First off love your bike dude
Second off i love this $8 shifter set from amazon. Not bar end though, but work great on all shifters https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1501644368&sr=1-1&keywords=friction+shifters comes with cables n housings too
not really bar end but maybe you could mount them on the bar end?
Either way love the bike just htought i'd mention it because you said you are $ conerned
Like these: SHIMANO Clipless Pedals SPD Pedal E-PDM324 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NORMU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ifY1DbVQ63FVP
I did not expect that your lever literally broke off. In my experience, most people who complain of broken shifters have either a bent derailleur hanger or really weirdly routed cables.
Those are simple thumb shifters that you have, and any community bicycle cooperative will have used ones for a dollar or two in a bin.
https://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Community_Bicycle_Organizations
But they'll probably break the same way.
If you're out to spend minimal money and get something new and serviceable, here are a set of SunRace aluminum shifters. They're friction shifters, so they don't click into gear. Judging by the dials on your shifters not numbering the gears, I'd assume your current shifters do a micro-clicky motion when you change gears; the SunRace ones would be a more fluid motion.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86
Well it depends on what you want them for. For pure performance, power-transfer, and security, I would say SPD-SL. The downside is that you can't really walk around with SPD-SL cleats. I use these on my road bike and for long (all-day) rides on my fixie. For general everyday riding, I use SPD (mtb) pedals and DZR shoes. MTB pedals don't lock in as tight and have more float than road pedals. DZR shoes are easier to walk around in than most cleats, and better looking, but not as stiff as other shoes.
With the dérailleurs, sure. All you need is another dérailleur and a hanger like this: https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-Shimano-Compatible-Index-Hanger/dp/B001PT8M8C
This just slots into the dropout- you'll need one of these since the one on the Eco is riveted in place.
You can see an example of bar ends here. You can buy them all over Amazon, but I'd recommend checking the bike shop and see what they say about what will work.
[Profile-Design-Boxer-Bar-Black](
http://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-Boxer-Bar-Black/dp/B001KS3RFQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381597001&sr=8-1&keywords=bar+ends)
[Origin8-Pulsion-Compe-Lite-Bar-Ends](
http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pulsion-Compe-Lite-Bar-Ends/dp/B002I7PRUQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381597001&sr=8-2&keywords=bar+ends)
They are just great for multiple hand positions. Found that riding on flat handle bars, you just don't get the options like you do with a road bike. Added some to the FX, no more numb hands. :)
I bought my FX about this time too just in time for winter. It was a blast, I think you're going to have fun.
This is the only stem cap I could find on Amazon. Do you think this would fit on my bike even though the bolt is already in there?
Il existe aussi des pédales dont un côté est plat et l’autre a une fixation clipless comme celles-ci. Je suis sûr que tu peux trouver moins cher, c’est juste un exemple :)
They can of course be found cheaper elsewhere, just be careful the nutted thing. http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-R559-Calipers-Silver-55-73mm/dp/B006Z0OVWC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422652766&sr=8-1&keywords=r559 If you're buying /new/ brakes I can't in good conscience recommend a cheaper product or I would, these are about as good as it gets on a budget for new brakes on old bikes. If you need cheaper, I would try and search eBay for older dual-pivot calipers and see if they have the long reach arms like these, or short reach like moderns ones (will be immediately apparent looking at pictures). But, that's me. Some good old centerpulls do exist, I just can't say I've ever been a fan of adjusting them compared to the dual-pivots.
well i'm currently using the stock seat on my bike and there was some discomfort at first but from what i can tell it was more from my lack of exercise than it was from the bike seat . But if your looking to buy a new seat it really depends on the bike your riding i'm on a mountain bike and will be buying this seat http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-A-R-S-Anatomic-Bicycle/dp/B000C17L2W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375298907&sr=8-2&keywords=bicycle+seat . As for the improvements in my day to day life i'm waking up earlier i have more energy and i feel better about myself ! Tell ya one thing riding my bike up hill is no picnic but the sense of accomplishment makes it worth while.
Something like this may fit your situation: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006Z0OVWC?pc_redir=1396654313&robot_redir=1
I got a 7.3FX last summer, and I found this seat works beautifully.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NGD4I0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1371132367&sr=8-1&pi=SL75
You might want to replace a stock seat with this http://amzn.to/1362PDk
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001IORDH0?pc_redir=1411016731&robot_redir=1
If the chain was slipping, the derailleur probably needed an adjustment. The freewheel does not look worn to me
Oh, super easy then! One of these for your rear derailleur, any will do. For front derailleur get one with a "band" that's sized for the diameter of your seat tube.
And then for shifters/brifters, check if your LBS has anything for 2x7. If they don't, look into non-indexed friction downtub shifters, and some plain old ergo, aero brake levers. Then you'll be fully geared again!
Just normal drop bars with this awesome handlebar tape. Weanas Vex Gel Supersuede Bike Bicycle Handle Bar Tape Wraps with Bar Plugs (Mixed-Color) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0BPPN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_BdGxDb5HWP0CR
Seeing as the lion's share of a bicyclist's effort goes into overcoming aerodynamic drag, "reasonably fast", and "upright posture" aren't especially compatible. You can have both if you add a motor, or perhaps a fairing, but in either case you can upgrade reasonably fast into unreasonably fast by getting low.
Also maybe try a recumbent. Some find that leaning back is a more comfortable way to achieve low frontal area than leaning forward.
Edit: you may be able to kludge on some bar extensions to make the hunched position more comfortable.
I've read that disk brakes put extra force on the fork (which makes sense to me), so I doubt a fork that hasn't been built specifically for disk brakes will be able to withstand that force.
Have you looked into long reach calipers? I'm not sure if that's what you meant by "dropped brakes". You'll need brakes with about 4mm more reach than you have right now.
These brakes seem to be well reviewed for 700c conversions. They are nutted, which is what you'll probably need if the bike is sufficiently vintage (which it probably is, given that it doesn't have 700c wheels).
Edit: looking at this thread, you may have issues with freewheel vs. hub. The last comment is particularly interesting and probably warrants more research for your specific case.
I would use these instead of the second link. They are (or were at least) 1 gram heavier than the xt pedals and constructed out of better/stronger materials than the ones listed above and the price is still reasonable.
this is what I have and this is what I want.
Thanks for the info, so should I stay with the freewheel or switch to cassette since I am replacing both parts, cassette seems cheaper but I am not sure if it will work?
Am I on the right track with these setups below?
Freewheel:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-HG37-Tourney-Freewheel-13-28T/dp/B001IORDH0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427163&sr=8-3&keywords=shimano+freewheel
http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-Freewheel-Release-26X1-5-Inch/dp/B004YJ2O48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427274&sr=8-1&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear
Cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Nutted-Cruiser-Freewheel-1-75-Inch/dp/B003RLL5VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427463&sr=8-2&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear+cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG20-7-Speed-Cassette-12-28T/dp/B003ZM9QQY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427489&sr=8-4&keywords=shimano+7+speed+cassette
Alright dude, this is the final question. I just wanna make sure that these will suit the shoe I showed you above? Thanks in advance man cause I know you'll come through :)
Edit: these are the shoes.
Truth is that you can replace almost any component on a bike, they are relatively simple machines. With the right tools disassembling a bike is pretty straightforward. The issue is how much money would an upgrade cost vs the difference you notice.
On this level of bike I would primarily optimize for comfort. The saddle and grips should be comfortable for you for whatever type of riding you prefer. The tire size and tread should match the terrain you ride. For example knobby mountain tires will be noisy and inefficient for street riding, high pressure road tires would be uncomfortable on rough terrain.
For a commuter bike you'll want to accessorize. Get a rack to carry your bag, get lights for night riding, get fenders if it rains a lot where you live.
Performance wise the only thing I would change on a bike like the 7.1FX is the brake pads. At least with my hybrid the pads were miserable, especially in wet weather. They would gather aluminum dust in little holes and scratch my rim. I got these: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Threaded-Salmon/dp/B000BMT2GU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411934931&sr=8-1&keywords=kool+stop+salmon brakes and I never had to worry about cleaning out the pads again.
If you end up doing a lot of biking (like 500-1000 miles a year), you may want to consider clipless pedals and shoes. This is a pretty common upgrade that makes your pedaling more efficient and will transfer to any newer bike.
There are maintenance items that you will likely have to replace or repair based on wear such as chains (1000 miles, or have wear measured by a chain tool), rear cassettes (should be after like 4-6000 miles if you replaced your chains on time, wheels (whenever spokes start popping and it can't be trued anymore), crankset/chainrings (probably unlikely, but maybe after 10k miles?).
I like to upgrade as things break, replace it with a higher quality component. I feel like this makes more sense financially than repairing something that already functions well.
These shifters(www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86/) will work fine assuming that there's nothing wrong with the derailleurs. As the previous reply stated, it could also just be friction between the cables and housing.
https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Bicycle-Extender-Handlebar/dp/B000FGYKWS/ref=asc_df_B000FGYKWS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242005762312&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8520034919918995785&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031245&hvtargid=pla-434544687058&psc=1
You can get hybrid pedals. They look like platform pedals, but have clips on one side. I use them on my bike to commute and for longer distance rides on weekends.
Before I had the hybrid pedals, I rode flat pedals with running shoes with no problem.
I can understand that a $20 investment in a set of chain tensioning devices will be worth it, they’ll give over your axle and to the back of the drop outs to keep the tension and help you long term
Check the link below for a decent example
Origin8 Chain Tension Adjuster, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GPJY1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dFYDDb060VP4Z
Sounds like maybe you need a new saddle. I had the same problem when I got into commuting and I picked up this saddle from Amazon and my tushie has been happy ever since.
> These brakes seem to have really long reach, and I can't fine any with the the 23mm extra I would need.
You only need 19mm to drop from 622 to 584. Which is still a lot, yes.
These brakes have the longest reach:
https://store.somafab.com/dimod750cepu.html
https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-R559-Calipers-Silver-55-73mm/dp/B006Z0OVWC
Keep in mind that going to brakes with longer caliper arms means that you have to squeeze harder at the lever to get the same force on the pads.
These are what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-149319-PD-M530-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B0052XXW32/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1550375886&sr=1-1&keywords=pd-m530
I got them for the same reason, that I thought I might want to ride without clipping in from time to time. However, I always clip in and never ride the flat sides. If I were buying today, I would buy something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-PD-M520L-Clipless-Bike-Pedals/dp/B000KC3Y0G/ref=sr_1_8?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1550375990&sr=1-8&keywords=spd+pedals
i bought aftermarket chain tensioners for my dirt jumper from origin8 for $10 on amazon and they are working fine
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C17L2W/
SHIMANO PD-M520L Clipless Bike Pedals 9/16in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KC3Y0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_f6L0BbSHPR5H3
It’s made a huge difference! I used to have the hardest time clipping in and out with the Peloton pedals not to mention they were always lose with my clips no matter how often I tightened them.
>Brakes didn't do anything in the rain...
Get used to it haha. But seriously, cantilever's are known to be bad and worse when wet. I would recommend salmon kool-stop pads but that will only get you a bit better stopping. Look into mini v brakes for more stopping power.
The tire's look like tufo brand? The color shouldn't mean anything if that's the case. If you're commuting/pleasure riding/training you should be on clinchers (standard tires/not tubulars as it sounds like that's what you have) and have a tube/patch/tire lever/frame pump. I rode with just tubulars for a year or so, but I'm wiser now.
That one does not ship to where I am. These three do, which one would you recommend:
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Alloy-Bicycle-Raiser-8-Inch/dp/B000FGYKWS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413552672&sr=8-2&keywords=stem+riser
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Pro-Stem-Raiser-Black/dp/B007WEQIT4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1413552672&sr=8-4&keywords=stem+riser
http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Bicycle-Handlebar-Extender-Adaptor/dp/B00LM34GQI/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1413552672&sr=8-16&keywords=stem+riser
Needs to be stripped down and de-scaled/de-rusted as much as possible. Chain removed and probably dropped in bin.
Fine grade steel wool or scotch-brite pads and kerosene can do a lot, and soaking components in Apple Cider vinegar works nicely as well, unless you have access to an Ultrasonic cleaner which is a better option. If you're going to stick with the original wheels, which look like 27s (630mm) then you're stuck with threaded freewheels. The Shimano 7sp HG freewheel is as far as you'll be able to go without either lacing a new hub into the rear wheel or buying a new wheelset in 700c. I'd refurbish the BB and Headset with new bearings, fit cables all over, throw a new freewheel on there and some Tektro r559 nutted mount brake calipers on there, some new Panaracer Pasela 27" tyres on there, job done. Oh, and lose the quill stem extender.
Haha, yeah I took the advice on replacing the freewheel seriously just in case.
Thanks for the knowledge. I haven't considered this replacement up to now. I might give it a shot to keep the bike crisp and functional as well as getting my mechanic skills up with the experience.
Here is a follow up question, would a 7 speed like this fit or would the extra gear take up too much space?
My buddy built one of these when he was barely scraping by without a car after high school. Said it was great at getting him to work except for the fact he was running though brake pads like weekly since he used a 70's road bike with the extra atrocious eraser type brake pads.
I typically adjust my helmet so I can just put my hoodie or a normal winter hat under it, which keeps me pretty warm on my ears and head. Barring that, a balaclava is nice too
I have yet to find gloves that are good enough to keep my hands from freezing so I often take the time at lights to rub my hands together. I really want to try out Bar Mitts or similar "pogies". I keep Hot Hands in my backpack in case of emergencies
I've found that cheap light waterproof non-breathable jackets can be helpful because they're thin and really trap heat. Most rain shells are breathable so they don't suffocate you in warmer weather, but I've found that the crappy non-breathable ones are great for winter for that same reason. I can go with just a sweatshirt and one of those and I'm usually sweating by the end in freezing temps. The only problem is I have to keep moving. It's useless if my body's not doing work to keep the heat building up, which is problematic if you may get stuck somewhere remote.
I want some clear glasses as well, for windy/snowy days when the precipitation stings my eyes. I think something like these would probably do the trick. REI sells, Tifosi, a brand of bike glasses, but I think these would be overkill for me
When I started out, I used one of these gel seats for my butt pain. Don't get the big fat ones. I get back pain sometimes when I ride the full 26 miles from work with a pack pack. You should make sure your seat is adjusted properly. search youtube on how to do that. also, the bike geometry makes a big difference. This bike share bikes are usually more upright.
If you run friction shifters you'd have an easy enough time running a triple and then you can run 5 speeds in the back and get way more useful gear range than any 1x setup. Super cheap to find old triples at any bike kitchen/co-op type place. Even nice ones with removable rings in 110/74 bcd are super common from late 80s and early 90s MTBs.
Rivendell sells friction bar end shifters pretty cheap and you have the flexibility to upgrade the rear wheel to 8 speed in the future if you find a deal on a used one off an old hybrid or something.
I'd recommend buying a new derailleur claw like that one so you start off with something straight. Consider keeping a spare around if you park your bike in a crowded rack, they are cheap enough.
This could get done for 100-200 depending on what the used parts market is like where you live. The new bar-end shifters would be the most expensive thing unless you opt for a new rear wheel too.
Its looking good!
To get handlebars like those, you need to fit handlebar extensions such as these :
http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Pulsion-Compe-Lite-Ends/dp/B002I7PRUQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1344795835&sr=1-2&keywords=bar+extensions
> there is a weird issue with the rear wheel slipping out and rubbing against the fram which no bike shop has been able to really fix, been to 2 shops, multiple mechanics, 4 quick releases and 2 different security skewers and nothing really seems to work all that well
You have horizontal dropouts? if yes, then this slipping issue should be easily fixed with a pair of "chain tugs". Put that term into amazon and you should find a few dozen different models, for example this model. I am not sure which model fits your bike but there are so many that you should be able to figure out a fitting pair. I used some when I had the same issue and it fixed the problem.
> The bike I have now has 27x1.24 wheels on it so when I do get a new bike (whenever that might be) i won't be able to bring the tires with.
Yeah, then it doesn't make much sense to invest a lot of money in this.
I have a 73 Continental which is almost identical. Love that bike. Lots of cheap parts available for it and it's built like a tank (of course that means it's heavy as shit). Nice wide tires so it can go anywhere.
You'll want a new saddle and some new pedals at least. If the rest is in good shape I say leave it.
These should be the brake pads you need.
www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJZ2S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3a5qybTMGFV9C
I have the M324s and I love them. Reasonable price, easy to adjust, (basically) no maintenance. I have them on my all-around bike that I use for commuting and for longer touring rides. I love that they're dual pedals with clip on one side and platform on the other side. I don't have trouble hitting the clip vs. the platform with I'm wearing my bike shoes. I also don't have trouble hitting the platform when wearing regular shoes. The platform isn't removable, though. I like that it's permanent because it feels really sturdy and won't randomly pop of. So, these are pretty versatile and pretty close to your budget.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-Pdm324-Single-Sided-Spd/dp/B000NORMU4/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1342377990&sr=8-7
edit: full link
Thanks man, is this the pedal you are talking about?
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M540-SPD-MTB-Pedals/dp/B000WYCCDW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1342153606&sr=8-3&keywords=spd+pedals something like that anyways?
I will get a multitool off amazon or something for all my bike fixing needs as well.
You may want to get a new 'anatomically correct' seat. Also, try tilting your seat slightly more forward.
I live on a student budget as well and I recently picked up this one: http://www.amazon.com/Velo-Bio-Logic-Bicycle-Saddle/dp/B001NGD4I0/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1334242594&sr=8-14
It's very comfortable on long rides and its waterproof. Give it a week or two to break in before you judge it. Best part is you can return for free through Amazon if you don't like it.
I use a Sunny B1805 that I got on sale at Home Depot for $500 plus tax.
Other miscellaneous items I have bought that I think really enhance the experience:
I screen cast the classes from my iPhone to an Apple TV which allows me to see cadence and my heart rate on my TV.
If I were buying now, I'd be looking at either the Schwinn IC4 or the Bowflex C6 as they come stock with a lot of things that I ended up adding on (SPD pedals, cadence meter and HRM) as well as things that I don't have but would like to have (weights, resistance displayed, charging port).
Something like this might bring it up a little further. It's a 90mm long 45 degree angle stem.
https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Mountain-Handlebar-Extender-Components/dp/B075XJJ4CJ/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1506605322&sr=8-12&keywords=31.8%2Briser&th=1&psc=1
Combine it with something like this and it would get even higher.
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=51573
5.5" rise 31.8mm clamp bars
https://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Group-BX-HB1331855-BK-Maximus-Handle/dp/B00B90HCKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506606474&sr=8-1&keywords=BX-HB1331855-BK&th=1&psc=1
Another issue you're going to run into is cable length. The cable on your left hand brake looks like it's just long enough to fit the current height. If you push it up with new bars you're going to need a new cable. With a 5" rise I'd be willing to bet you're going to need all new cables. Unless you can do it yourself you may want to sell your bike and buy a Roll like your friends. That's going to get expensive if a shop is doing it.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Alloy-Bicycle-Raiser/dp/B000FGYKWS/ A stem riser might help get your existing bars up higher.
This would help because my ass is fat and it hurts to ride my bike.
I am only entering because you said to.....make sure someone else wins ;-)
I've had great luck with these, and they're dirt cheap: Imrider Lightweight Polyamide Bike Pedals For BMX Road MTB Bicycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ILX7OGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SB9RCbA668B04
>it it worth it to have special shoes with any sort of clips?
in my opinion: Yes. I use SPD pedals (this exact model) on my CX bike and on my road bike, and can absolutely recommend it.
(On my commuter/townie/"winterhure", i ride platforms with toe clips, thought. More free choice of footwear.)
I like clipless pedals because there's no slipping off the pedals, you feel way more attached to the bike and can use the power of your upstrokes.
I touch the ground when I'm standing off the seat, but barely touching with the toes if I keep the bike straight up and sit on the seat. I'll keep the gears going downhill in mind, might just keep the front at 2 when I go near a red light, and upshift to 3 when I'm going 15-ish. I always feel like I'm a burden when I ride on the street going slower than the others. I live in a city with VERY few cyclists, so the drivers are far from used to it, so they just play along and drive really slow behind me.
I'm trying to diet to lose some weight while trying to get this hobby going, but I'm in medical school so I know how to eat for cardio hobbies. I'll probably start the 22 mile ride in a few weeks, I want to get warmed up a bit before going, or I'll fail horribly in the middle of Beverly Hills (half-way there).
As for bib, I'm REALLY not into wearing that while I'm at my weight (My weight is in my thighs and stomach), and I think I could go without pain from my seat as it's a wide soft seat, similar to this one, but if you still suggest getting a bib with that seat, I may get one and wear it under the shorts/shirt. Would that work well, or would it feel uncomfortable wearing it under clothing?
Proly taking you on a brewery tour in Asheville. Then dinner at The Junction followed by a comfy night's stay at The Grove Park Inn.
Edit: forgot to add my squishmonster... [sorry it's a tiny bit over 25, but hey, free shipping] (http://www.amazon.com/Velo-Bio-Logic-Bicycle-Saddle/dp/B001NGD4I0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3GQH0AGPUNH20&coliid=I3VP081JW6OZZE)
Wow. Alrighty then.
My seat looks like this:http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cloud-9-Bicycle-Suspension-Tri-color/dp/B000H87PUI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369947247&sr=8-2&keywords=padded+spring+bike+seat and I think it's very comfy, but I have only the Huffy standard 20" kids bike seat to compare it to (what I rode as a kid).
The Trail-a-bike seat looks like a standard bike seat. Maybe I should get him some padded biking shorts. Hmmm.
Cool! I have the same pedals. I kind of miss my plain old PD-M450s though.
Class starts at 1130. I’m up around 4 am everyday, so the time isn’t an issue.
I’ll get fitted and see if there are any better seats available. I’m using this seat right now:
Planet Bike Men's A.R.S. Anatomic Relief Bicycle Saddle (Black/Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C17L2W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
So in my adult life, I had never ridden a bike up until the point where I discovered an abandoned Citi Bike in a place it clearly didn't belong and was asked to hand it over to the NYPD. Since then I had been toying with the idea of a semi-commuter but wanted the capability of taking it on the subway easily as well as sneak it into the workplace without the fear of leaving it outside all day.
Settled on the Camp 20" 16 Speed Thunderbolt. Not many reviews on it, but the few I found were positive and I got a 'new' one off eBay for $300 delivered, whereas Amazon would cost me about $430. A few scuff marks and other cosmetic damage, but otherwise it appears to be in excellent condition. Had it delivered directly to the local bike shop to have them assemble/tune it and the mechanic was very impressed by it. I barely took it outside when I was approached by a bunch of people asking me about it too. Took a little trial and error for the folding/unfolding. They include a sheet which is completely unhelpful and have a couple of videos on YouTube at super low quality so it took an embarrassingly long time to figure it all out. I love how it uses a magnet to hold the bike in the folded position though.
I replaced the stock amber reflectors with white ones and removed the stock front and rear reflectors. Added usb-rechargeable rear red light and usb-rechargeable electronic horn/head light. Also added Taotronics cell phone holder, rear view mirror and nori lights.
Only rode it for about a mile today and it rides really well on the streets of NYC. Seat isn't bad but still a bit uncomfortable after a while. have a wider Sunlite Cloud-9 on order so we'll see how that goes.
The tricky part was adding the accessories in a way that the bike could still fold with them on. I actually ended up moving the headlight/horn to the handlebar post because i could only mount things on one side of the handlebar.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ILX7OGA?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
What kind of saddle do you have? My bike came with a generic / semi-racing saddle that was hard, and my ass didn't last 5 miles on that seat. I got this one and it made a world of difference! Guy here, if that is relevant.
To get a replacement bolt and backing plate, go to your local bike shop and ask for one of these. Don't buy this one from Amazon because that price is ridiculous. Should be about 5 bucks at a bike shop. You wont need the plate portion but it might be good to have around if you ever need to replace the derailleur with a newer style.
That might be the backing plate in the picture but I'm not sure. It looks more like the cone for the rear axle, in which case you may also be missing the lock nut. Anyway, one thing at a time. Is the wheel still on the bike?
I have this saddle and I looove it
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NGD4I0
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H87PUI/
These: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ILX7OGA/ref=pd_aw_sim_468_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CZY6MY0Y59XKQ1KVKCG6&dpPl=1&dpID=71g6YyE%2BY0L
Like I said, they look just like the race face chesters and have held up to pretty aggressive riding from my 210 lbs.
The M324 are great value for money of hybrid pedal. As others said, they are a tad heavy, but they have a big platform and are basically bullet proof. If you prefer lighter pedals, go for the EH500
For 10 miles each way, almost anything will be fine. I just got my first B17 and with 100 miles on it, it's just starting to break in a little. Definitely uncomfortable for me at first, and you have to tilt the nose up more than you'd expect to keep yourself from sliding forward. They hold their value though, and people love them. I don't love it yet, but I've only had it 2 weeks.
I use a WTB Rocket V for all my mountain biking, which is closer to your riding position, and >50% of my friends do too. You can get them used on eBay for next to nothing, or buy one new for $40. More if you want a lighter one.
If you want to go even cheaper, I had one of these on my commuter (12 miles round trip) for about 1000 miles, and it's fine for the distances you're doing.
Flyer vs. B17 - I say go for the B17. You don't need ass-suspension. Hell, if you're good with the price and you're doing that much commuting, go straight for the Brooks and don't look back, in all likelyhood it'll be the last saddle you ever purchase.
Also, all the stuff lodellama mentions comes packaged with the saddle except the proofride, which you won't need for a while anyway.
And if you don't already, do yourself a favor and head over to Amazon or your LBS and get some Planet Bike Cascadia fenders, or whatever your LBS stocks.
I've been using these and think they're amazing;
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B000NORMU4/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can get pretty decent cheap pedals on Amazon for like $20 and try it out
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ILX7OGA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1502866523&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mtb+pedals&dpPl=1&dpID=412Lmaw9tEL&ref=plSrch
Honestly, unless clipless is really really helping you... like in a race... you really aren't getting much from it in recreational riding. You don't have anything to lose by getting some flats and putting on some shoes. Being able to "move around" isn't always a bad thing, not really. If your shoes/foot position is causing you problems you might find it helpful to be able to adjust on the fly or shake it out etc. You can always go back. With good pins the shoes don't always make a lot of difference, I use skate shoes but I've rode in vans or even running shoes and it was fine too, all day rides.
This is the tackiest I've ever owned. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0BPPN6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Heard Lizard Skins is really good for Grippy
New brake pads made a big difference for me. I bought these and they made a big difference. Also make sure your brakes are adjusted correctly.
I have a hybrid bike with the exact same 7 speed freewheel and chainring, last week the freewheel went bad so I got this one the bike had the same tires as your's and I went with 700 x 30 tires and the bike is a bit faster but not as good as a road bike. Why not buy a used road bike as it's going to be far lighter than the wife's bike.
This bike is a beast. Changed the pedals and seat for more comfort and added the water cage.
This is the list of items from Amazon links:
NAKTO 26" 300W Fat Tire Electric Bicycle
Serfas CRS-1 Super Cruiser Bicycle Saddle
Wolfride Bicycle Water Bottle Cage Adapter
Reehut Bike Water Bottle Cages (2-Pack)
Imrider Lightweight Polyamide Bike Pedals
VANWALK In Frame Bike Bag with Waterproof Touch Screen Phone Case
Total = $880 Delivered at my door.
Got this less than a month ago. So far, I've put a new Riva saddle on it, Profile Design end bars, a Mirrycle bar mirror, a rear spider flasher, and a Bell F20 computer.
Yeah, I've decided to go that route. It's significantly cheaper and way less effort to just get friction shifters and new brake levers (since the current shifters are a combo). I just wish I could find a set of friction shifters I like :-/ Amazon is lacking in their selection. I want something that's of decent quality no more than $20-30 and grey/black. I've got these in my cart, and they look like they may be kindof cheap (though they have good reviews) and I don't have red anywhere else on my bike so it kindof bugs me that they're that color. I'd like to find shifters that match my new brake levers.
I've extended steerer tubes on several bikes. The I've owned this bike for many years (it has an old style headset).
http://i.imgur.com/Zef8Dlp.jpg
The parts are readily avalable at Amazon or eBay...
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Alloy-Bicycle-Raiser-8-Inch/dp/B000FGYKWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415419343&sr=8-1&keywords=steering+tube+extender
The above comes in a short or long version. I've had these on my bikes for quite some time, and no problems.
Different shoes have a pretty big effect on your position without adding in the clip less aspect. Though it's not certain you'd even need to, you could set it for the weekend rides and probably get by for your commute. But there's the possibility things won't be optimal without some adjustment.
I just think that if you're doing rides that long it's worth spending money for proper road pedals. To me these two seem like a better deal than this.
you've got the wrong fork extender
https://smile.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Bicycle-Extender-Handlebar/dp/B000FGYKWS/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=stem+riser&qid=1557329666&s=gateway&sr=8-9
I second the suggestion for cr-720s. decent stopping power for the price, great mud clearance, easy set up. I've had them on the nature boy i've raced for the past 3 years. And yes, change the pads. I use the Salmon Kool Stop pads and they work very well.
You could with something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FGYKWS?pc_redir=1404191801&robot_redir=1
That said, this is the least graceful way to solve your problem
Well I entered, I'm digging that fork. Really missed a chance to put on one of these bad boyz though.
Wonder if u/mjfarsi can put one on in time.