(Part 3) Best building materials according to redditors
We found 1,243 Reddit comments discussing the best building materials. We ranked the 638 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
I’m pretty sure I know something similar to the sticks you’re describing. You can get a high quality one for $20 off of Amazon: Master Lock Security Bar, Adjustable Door Security Bar. They’re telescoping/sliding metal pole thingies that you force under the doorknob (on your side of the door). You need to adjust the height of the rod to fight your doorknob snugly. This basically makes it impossible for anybody to enter from the other side unless they somehow destroy the door.
Edit: there’s also this: Doorricade Door Bar
It does a bit. Another use for this foam is putting it under your pump or HDDs. I actually did this (with neoprene) in my build, but I don't have a clear picture of it. If you want "sound dampening" material, I recommend some this neoprene.
Other uses include on case panels opposite your fans, putting your actual case on the material to reduce vibration through the feet, and to fill in any gaps in your case around the rear fan area (also prevents re-circulation).
I bought clear no-slip tape on Amazon. Here’s how it looks. link They came with a handy roller. It was very easy to apply. I don’t find I notice them and my wife (who’s very picky about my “projects”) gave me the thumbs up after inspecting the steps. Here’s the link on Amazon Amazon
Hi. They make lamp mounting kits for vinyl siding.
Builders Edge 130110006001 Surface Block 001, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041NT7D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AV9RAbVRZCPWS
There are different colors. Find one that has the right amount of steps for your type of siding.
Use a outdoor silicon to seal around the edges and there are foam pads you can use between the junction box to the siding cover plate. Hopefully they put a junction box in there, the lamp mount attaches onto the box. If they didn’t, install an outdoor box in there too.
Here is another
Arlington 8141-1 Vertical Siding Lamp Mounting Kit with Built-in Box for 1/2 Inch Vertical Siding LAP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002W6ZOCO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4V9RAbFQ3P1Z4
Hope that helps. Turn off the breaker before wiring.
I would recommend a mid-range Chamberlain. E.g. something like this B970 for $250 which has a lot of nice features (quiet belt drive, battery backup for use during power outages, and wifi control if you want it). Installation is pretty straightforward (couple hours DIY, depending on how handy you are and whether you have a 2nd person to help).
You can get basic garage door openers for more like $150 but I think the extra $100 gets you some nice features.
No reason to spend any more IMO, and no reason to pay for someone to install it if you are just slightly handy.
Benzomatic TS8000 with the large camping propane tanks and if you really want to do it right, add a searzall.
Kenji's steak advice (Step 10A) is to use the torch WHILE finishing on your castiron - Which i find helps a LOT.
Door Devil is a must.
A deadbolt into a wood frame makes the wood at the point extremely thin.
Next I like 3M window security film.
Here's a video of it in action.
You can get cheap security film off Amazon. But I personally tested what's sold from China, and the cheaper American made stuff. And I'm telling you, find a retailer, and spend the money on the 3M.
Battery operated cameras are also good. I like Arlo wireless cameras. No drilling or wires. And while yes, you have to use their cloud for storage, there's scripts you can either write yourself or download online, which will log in, download your videos local and delete them from the cloud every 24 hours, or 1 hour. Whatever you want.
If you set them to motion detection the batteries last around 6 months.
I "rolled my own" garage door button with a wireless relay.
Luckily, garage door openers have already thought of this.
There are cheaper models with battery backup available, but this is the one I got.
Sorry this happened to you. We installed Door Devil's for some peace of mind. Makes kicking in the door about 1000x harder
https://www.amazon.com/Door-Devil-Home-Doorframe-Reinforcement/dp/B00ZGUMLZQ
Also in the CT/MRI suite at my hospital (because a random 2'x4' cloud in the ceiling helps when you're having panic attack-level claustrophobia, I guess...)
I got a ton of results on Google with "troffer lights cloud cover". Looks like even Amazon carries them.
Worth a shot. Those things do go bad from time to time. Replacement sensors are available.
So one thing to keep in mind is that the weak point of a door lock is actually the door jamb. When someone kicks in the the door, they usually don't break the door, they break the strike plate out of the door jamb. The deadbolt is then blasted out of the strike plate.
I am not a locksmith nor have I used this specific product. But after looking at it and the install video, I am not sure how this lock will prevent a break-in via kicking in the door. This lock is secured into the door jamb and therefore it is only as strong as the door jamb. It uses 3 inch screws into the jamb so that is better than normal, but if the jamb is made out of cheaper wood, the screws will probably blast out of the jamb if kicked in repeatedly.
If you wanted to go the cheapest route to increase your door security, reinforcing your door jamb is probably the way to go. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Door-Devil-Home-Doorframe-Reinforcement/dp/B00ZGUMLZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1478113478&sr=1-1&keywords=door+devil
The advantage of Haven Mech is that it is secured into floor. So it uses the strength of the foundation to secure the door. It also has been designed from scratch to take dozens of kicks. What we found in our R&D is that a lock that doesn't have any give will fail quickly. Our original design was a steel bottom and steel top. It had no give, and it failed after about 10 kicks. Once we redesigned the lock out of hard plastic and the insides were woven nylon, the lock gives and bends a bit every time someone kicks it. That give allows for the door to take kick and kick without major damage.
Grip tape to help give you that feeling you're getting better traction. Something such as this: Tape King Anti Slip Traction Tape - 4 Inch x 30 Foot - Best Grip, Friction, Abrasive Adhesive for Stairs, Safety, Tread Step, Indoor, Outdoor - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63K167/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uJc0DbQTCAHBF
Pool noodle or foam from the craft store attached to the beam, perhaps a couple layers thick if you think it's warranted. Spray glue or hot glue maybe, to get it to stick.
I have the p400, same airflow issues, I should do this too.
I've been leaving the bottom slightly cracked sometimes. But since I added an extra intake and outtake to the top temps have been alright
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Edge-Trim-Black-Small-Length/dp/B00KG9BAY0
If you want to make it look more clean add this
Others have mentioned it, but I'll itemize it:
• Garage door openers systems have a "manual release" that disconnects the door from the trolley that pulls it open and pushes it shut. This allows the door to be used manually as if there was no opener. This is usually a rope with a red handle that hangs down from the center rail near the top of the garage door.
• Manufacturers have a key-device which mounts in a hole high on the center of the door. When you unlock this handle, it allows you to pull out the handle which is attached to a wire-rope which is attached to the manual release on the door.
Demonstration video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAXaB5srdr8
That said, a certain member of my extended family managed to leave her car such that the open hatchback was in the way of the door closing, and forgot that the hatch was open when she closed the garage door -- the garage door pushed the car hatch down far enough to close fully, but the partially open hatch was still pressing against the inside of the garage-door, and when she attempted to open the garage door the hatchback edge caught on one of the hinges and stopped the door from opening more than about 10-inches.
Not remembering that there were 8 and 6 year old children next door, my octogenarian MIL lay on the ground and crawled into the garage via the 10 inch gap, and closed the boot-lid so that the door would open properly. After this, she had a contractor add a "person door" to the side of the garage.
Not OP, but:
torch
tank (can be had much cheaper at any home supply or hardware store)
Searzall
anyone thinking of a similar job should look into DITRA. Truly awesome subfloor product. It might cost more, but you will NEVER have cracked tile or grout with a proper subfloor and DITRA. The subfloor and the tile are allowed to move independently.
I am amazed at how straight your lines are.
I do have to say the layout is strange. But if the product had that much variable, what can you do.
If you re-stain them, you could always get clear treads: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756M19NC
So you're in a bit of trouble.
First things first, check the breaker to the garage to make sure that you have power. Cycle the breaker just in case since some don't show they are tripped very well.
If you have power, you're going to need to grab the manual release. Doing this from the inside is the easiest. You can break a window to get in if you have one. Grabbing it from the outside is possible but challenging. A locksmith may be able to help since they have tools to open car door locks that work well for 'picking' the door. Remember the point of the door is to protect what is in your garage so anything that allows you to easily open it defeats that.
Once you get it open, install one of these. It lets you use a key to remove the lock which exposes the cable to pull the release from the outside.
If you know you're going to go down that route, then you have another option. If you can see into the garage from a window, take note of where you can drill a hole in the center of the door towards one of the top panels without hitting anything. You can drill the hole and then use a coat hanger to grab the release. Install the release lock into the hole you made. If you're going to do that, download the installation instructions before you get the lock to make sure you're drilling a hole that you can use (right height, position in panel, size, etc).
What about this:
https://smile.amazon.com/38565-White-Band-Melamine-Edgebanding/dp/B0071BR60I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487103978&sr=8-1&keywords=white+veneer
Just did it this past weekend. Used this 2-in-1 highly reviewed inexpensive underpayment:
Laminate Flooring UNDERLAYMENT with Vapor Barrier 3in1 Foam 3mm Thick 200 sq.ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTB6SO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_dBS7tocYyrQoO
Also I'd definitely get an installation kit:
Floorlot Flooring Laminate and Engineered Floor Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FTAE1T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_thyIzbA8ZA6NR
Edit: *underlayment
We've had this issue about twice a year for the past 4 years. One part of the year in the morning, the other part at sunset. I've done the TP roll fix and it barely worked, most of the time it didn't. Liftmaster sells a kit for this that is essentially a custom cardboard shade, but it does work. I think I found mine on Amazon.
If the shade kit doesn't take care of it, then the sensors are weak and need to be replaced. I replaced the sensors on ours and have never had the sun issue since. If your door opener / sensors are older, I would go straight to replacing the sensors. I bought this kit for my Liftmaster door. It has everything you need to replace the sensors. https://smile.amazon.com/Chamberlain-LiftMaster-Craftsman-Replacement-G801CB-P/dp/B001JDG1KU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=garage+door+sensor&qid=1566414013&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I replaced the sensors last May and the sun no longer interferes with them.
That is cute. I like it. If you ever want something a little stronger, you can pick up craft plywood for a few bucks. If you are careful, it can even be cut with a simple utility knife.
These are great EACHEN WiFi Wireless Inching Relay Monentary/Self-Locking Switch Module DIY Smart Home Remote Control DC 5-32V AC90-260V Ewelink App iOS/Andriod Compatible with Alexa Echo Google Home IFTTT (ST-DC1)
relay board with Wi-Fi
Traction tape
Can you link the seller post or send some pics of it? It helps to know the design style because there are a few types.
One simple fix you can try is getting some safety grip tape and add it to the wheel surface. Use a blwo dryer or heat gun to get the tape and wheel warm while applying it because it helps the adhesive get a solid grip and keeps the edges from coming up.
The tape also makes the wheel more annoying to clean, but that isn't an issue with all chins. Even if it does become an issue, you can just peel the dirty tape off and replace it. The stuff is pretty cheap. You may be worried that the grit will be too rough, but chinchilla feet are adapted to rough rocks and sand from their original environment. It acts more like a pumice stone that helps keep their callouses fresh enough to avoid cracking which can be an entry point for bumblefoot issues, anyway.
I have mounted things on siding using one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-Vertical-Siding-Mounting-Built/dp/B002W6ZOCO/
but its plastic and like you said you need to hit a stud especially for a antenna that is heavy and might get wind load.
We faced this exact problem. Moved into a new home with a severe gopher problem. Fumigation was ineffective. We cleared the backyard out to bare earth and put hardware cloth in under our soil amendments and new sod.
In my research (UC Davis has a great right up here), there are no effective repellents for gophers. The only effective treatments are exclusion (putting in hardware cloth), poisoning and trapping. I went the trapping method and baited with peanut butter. We've been able to clear gophers out of the backyard and I'm working on hunting down the last (I think) gopher in the front.
One more note: don't waste your time with chicken wire. Gophers can chew through the wire and it'll rust away too quickly to help for long.
Hello and thanks /u/yosoyreddito for tagging me in this post. Chances are that your gears SHOULD still be fine however there are a few things that may be happening.
1)The lack of grease on the newer gears may have caused premature wearing of the gear(however that soon is almost impossible).
2)The door is not balanced. What kind of springs do you have on the door? Torsion springs(on a bar above the door) or extension springs(the ones that stretch on both sides of the door). If you have torsion springs, your rollers or other issues may be causing the door to not work properly. However EXTENSION springs are knows to cause multiple issues as they get older. They can have stretches in one and not the other, causing one side to be weaker causing the door to roll poorly. Also the pulleys. These pulleys are the number one cause of a garage door becoming really unbalanced and a very shaky operation.
3)The worm gear/drive shaft on the operator may be bent, causing gears to wear out extremely fast(also very rare but I have seen it happen).
Let me know more info about your operator(brand, make, model) and I will try to help you find exact parts. If it is a Liftmaster/Chamberlain operator is sounds like you would rather get the entire assembly rather than just the actual gear, mainly because all the bearing will be brand new and will prevent the sprocket from eventually shearing off(if your gears even last that long). Keep me posted!
Yup. I have a 3 shelf entertainment center that best buy doesn't sell anymore. Putting the center on the top of it was perfect for me. Since my shelves are glass I also used this to isolate the center from any vibrations it might send to the glass. I also used it between the bookshelves and the stands because the bookshelves just sit on top of the stands and the stand legs are hollow.
It's not available right now, but I bought this from Amazon. It was less than half the price of Home Despot, and with free shipping, it worked out well. It's super sturdy, and good for keeping out predators.
Yes you can. Its attached to a shaft that goes down into the unit. I had to replace mine about 6 months ago.
Edit: You may want to double check the applicability, but this is the kit.
https://www.amazon.com/Liftmaster-41c4220a-Chamberlain-Craftsman-LiftMaster/dp/B006L8CZKI
The part on the left is what broke. Once the bushing wears out it eats up the shaft.
Yo:
Edge Trim Black Small, 1/8" Fits Edge (10 Feet Length) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KG9BAY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_75kPDbFZNJYW4
I used pre-drilled melamine panels. Easy to install the horizontal shelves in the best spot, super easy to get an excellent paint job on it (if you do not like the bright white color that it comes in), and the edges can be finished with iron-on edgebanding:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Melamine-White-Drilled-Panel-Common-3-4-in-x-15-3-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-0-75-in-x-15-75-in-x-97-in-371693/202089062
https://www.amazon.com/38565-Melamine-Iron-Edgebanding-White/dp/B0071BR60I
Thanks for the ideas. I'll have to measure the box on the house and compare it to the one you linked. Maybe your box is large enough to completely cover it and then the current position wouldn't be as much of an issue.
I think the only issue with the cover you linked is that it is for Dutch lap siding. I have hardiplank, so I'm not sure if it will work, since there are difference in how the siding is cut. I might just buy a few different types and see what works best.
One other option I'd rather not do but could be a possibility is to remove that box and install one of these in its place. I'd really rather come up with a solution that uses the existing box instead, but this is always an option.
Food and water typically goes in a covered area of the run. Only way to keep rodents out of it is to only feed them a day's worth of food at a time. This prevents waste as well.
Chickens will go in every night. If the run is fully secure (2"x4" welded wire, chain link, or other strong wire, not chicken wire), then you don't need a door. If the run is open on the or is otherwise not fully secure, then you do need a door that can latch. They could probably figure out a swinging door, but so can a predator. Unless you're in a very cold area, just leave it as an open hole if your run is going to be 100% enclosed.
As for cover for the run, it depends on the size and how you're building it. 1/4" or 1/2" hardware cloth is the best if they're going to be roosting somewhere that a raccoon could reach. Chain link or 2"x4" welded wire is sufficient for the most of the run. 50' 1/2", 50' 1/4"
I free range my birds, so I don't really do much coop cleaning. Laying down fresh hay after a rain in the uncovered portion of my coop is about all they get. You probably want to replace the substrate when it's dirty... People love walk-in coops for that purpose.
All you need to do is get some of the edge molding (Something like this) and it will clean that edge up. Just make sure you cut the edging corners properly
Something like this will work with older motors.
https://www.amazon.com/Garage-NXG-100-Remote-Compatible-Openers/dp/B01J8JI9HY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542736625&sr=8-4&keywords=alexa+compatible+garage+door+opener
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I have a new motor, and it came with wifi and app access built in.
https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-B970-Smartphone-Controlled-Ultra-Quiet-Battery/dp/B075CQ86ZV/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542736729&sr=1-4&keywords=garage+door+opener
We used this and it has worked well https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0756M19NC
You might try this It is supposed to allow the tile to float somewhat to prevent popped tiles or cracking.
Just these ones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016T42AIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xsG2Ab1H0X116
What about something like this?
Genie Universal Dual Frequency Conversion Kit – Eliminates Frequency Interference and Upgrades Garage Door Openers (Compatible with Most Opener Brands) – Model GIRUD-1T https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RYV05S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_kao3BbKBRH49S
I'm not sure about the installation of the window film. I live in an apartment, so the option isn't even on the board for me. I hear it can be somewhat expensive, though.
As far as the locks go, most doors in the US come with a standard size deadbolt hole drilled out so that you can use any brand you want and it will still fit. If your door does not have this already drilled out, you should be able to find out the correct measurements online and drill the door yourself (if it's a wooden door).
As far as the gun-proof lock goes, standard deadbolts will be able to hold up against handgun shots. However, shotgun slugs and hunting rifle rounds will likely compromise the lock. (As seen on MythBusters: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0852842/synopsis).
It's good to have a deadbolt that is internal only as well. One that can only be locked & unlocked from the inside. That may provide some additional protection against being shot out with a shotgun slug.
If that's something you need to worry about, don't forget that a deadbolt isn't the only way to secure a door when you're home. Anything that prevents the door from opening will help:
These seem like better options than a slug-proof lock due to price alone. I can't imagine how much such a lock would cost that would seal your door like a vault. These provide the same amount of protection without being cost-prohibitive.
this is the stuff I went with -- yes it's a little more expensive but it made for a perfect (silent) installation of my 12MM laminate.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YTB6SO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's still way cheaper than anything you'd buy at a local floor store too.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PV84NCR
Install by tapping in to the wires going to your PC switch. Set for momentary, download the app and your all set. FYI, you use the app to configure it, but you can use a smart speaker to control after it's configured. You can also turn it off and on via voice if you have a smart speaker like an Echo. BTW, when you activate it, if the PC is already on it will turn it off. For just a phone without a smart speaker, just search for wake on lan.
I also work in rooms with no windows, but we also have all the lights off or dim a lot of the time too.
Maybe you want to take a collection and get a couple for your shop?
It's a safety sensor for an automatic garage door opener. Similar to, if not exactly, this one.
I replaced this part on both my garage door openers so it’s a simple fix. The part for me was $20:
Liftmaster 41c4220a Gear and Sprocket Kit for Chamberlain, Sears, Craftsman and LiftMaster 1/3 and 1/2 HP Chain Drive Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006L8CZKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_R1GPCb10VSFK1
https://www.amazon.com/Sky-Clouds-Fluorescent-Decorative-Skylight/dp/B00VMESHHG
I just looked at this for a 29mm Cesaroni motor. I'm going to switch over to a 29mm motor mount. I think I'll just use a 29mm one grain F load instead of adapting to 24mm. I'll definitely try that in OpenRocket! I would never use balsa for fins :^ ) You caught me. The 1/8" 1sq ft G10 stock is a bit pricey at $27.00 per unit, so I think I'll go for this if that sounds good.
I appreciate the advice. I'll definitely make sure to do that and play around with positioning. I completely forgot about needing speaker stands. I have a pair of wooden TV trays like this- https://target.scene7.com/is/image/Target/11053804?wid=520&hei=520&fmt=pjpeg
And I can also afford to buy a pair of Yoga blocks like these to place underneath the speakers- https://www.amazon.com/Reehut-1-PC-Yoga-Block-Flexibility/dp/B01LW50A1L/ref=sr_1_1?s=exercise-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1501115832&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=yoga%2Bblocks&th=1&psc=1
I can also get this stuff and place it at the bottom of both speakers- https://www.amazon.com/Sponge-Neoprene-Thick-CLEVERBRAND-INC/dp/B01GWD5WOW
I know it's not ideal, but with all of that do you think it will work just fine? Or is there a better solution with different materials you would recommend? Maybe placing something underneath the tray?
I saw this reviewer from NO Audiophile used a lot of miscellaneous materials to raise his speakers- http://noaudiophile.com/JBL_LSR305/JBL_LSR_305_Desk.jpg
So maybe it's not so bad?
Have a buddy from high school who is a locksmith, says the easiest and cheapest way to not get a lock that can be easily gotten into is by buying something that's not commonly seen in the US. Dimple key locks aren't that often seen and while they can be picked the aren't as common and what was seen in this video wouldn't be as applicable. Simple idea is to find something the average person has never seen and you'd defeat the average lock pick.
His house has some crazy locks from China or Japan that have like a dozen small holes and the key has the same number of rods that you push in. The idea being that you'd have to put so many picks in at the exact pressures that you wouldn't be able to pick it. He's a big lock enthusiast which I guess is a thing, there's some crazy designs out there that go way beyond the simple pin and tumbler system most of us use. That said there's still little that will stop someone from kicking in a door when it comes to a basic door. It's still just wood on a frame, get some kind of door bar or a security screen.
Negative, that switch will not work as intended with a garage door opener. You need this:
https://www.amazon.com/Genie-GIRUD-1T-Alleviates-Interference-Intellecode/dp/B000RYV05S/
You haven't looked hard or deep enough then. This is absolutely a thing:
https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-7702CB-Quick-Release-Lock/dp/B00213KWAM
That's what they did on my own detached garage. Appears all over my state.
even with double layered 5/8 ply while its structurally meets the strength you need for tiling. it will expand and contact every winter/summer season. those movements will cause the grey thinset he used to crack and come apart. even with flexible grout. One type of solution is to use a flexible mortar base like http://www.wayfair.com/Custom-Building-Products-VersaBond-Flex-Fortified-Thin-Mortar-Set-50lb-MTWS50WHT-L6911-K~YFY1086.html?refid=GX54801249780-YFY1086&device=c&ptid=80545458060&gclid=CNr8jrOuu8oCFQ8taQod8DQCFA
or using an uncoupling membrane like schluter ditra in place of hardibacker http://www.amazon.com/Schluter-Systems-Ditra54-Underlayment-54sqft/dp/B003VKYKWA/ref=sr_1_3/185-3466943-4132966?ie=UTF8&qid=1453395109&sr=8-3&keywords=schluter-ditra
I was just going to throw in that you can buy this edging stuff in various widths. Even if it looks slightly off up close, nobody would ever notice.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071BR60I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_UIyrDb67GWB0H
Make sure you tape where your cut is because that thermofoil (if that is ehat it is) can really kind of rip when you cut it.
I imagine that using three hinges between each board would protect against any reasonable abuse.
What kind of wood did OP use I wonder?
Edit: Perhaps just craft plywood. Like so:
https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Products-Co-5306-Plywood/dp/B000MNKTSS
Hey OP. I just installed 12 mm laminate over my concrete floor and I ordered this stuff off Amazon: Laminate Flooring UNDERLAYMENT with Vapor Barrier 3in1 Foam 3mm Thick 200 sq.ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTB6SO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_n92aRLcND9wgZ
It has 3mm padding and vapor barrier built in and it's a killer price. I've only had the floor installed for a few weeks but I have had no issues with the quality so far.