(Part 3) Best cat litter accessories according to redditors

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We found 1,479 Reddit comments discussing the best cat litter accessories. We ranked the 370 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Cat litter
Cat litter boxes
Cat litter scoops
Cat odor & stain removers
Cat litter box liners
Cat litter mats
Cat litter box enclosures
Cat litter waste receptacles
Cat toilet training systems
Cat litter box replacement air filters

Top Reddit comments about Cat Litter & Housebreaking:

u/salire · 53 pointsr/TheGirlSurvivalGuide

Your questions aren't silly! It's great that you're thinking about how you can make you both comfortable before you dive into a new situation. Always set yourself up for success! :)

> do I buy a litter box/food/scratch-post before I plan to bring a cat home?

That's generally a good idea, yes. Means less stress for both of you as you're scrambling to get everything ready for him. You might ask the shelter what food the cat has been eating, as cats can get an upset tummy when switching brands/types. Not a big deal, but he will have poops that are a bit stinkier/liquidier than normal poops. That should alleviate within the week. You can lessen the tummy troubles by doing a more gradual change, mixing the food he is currently on with the food he will be on more and more, until he is eating what you want him on. But you can honestly just do the change, too, and just deal with the sadpoops for a little while.

I suggest a couple of different scratching posts, if you have the space! Cats like having options, like a horizontal post and a vertical one. Cats also like being high up, so if you can swing a tall post with platforms, he will probably like that.

Get two litter boxes! A lot of people don't realize it, but the rule of thumb for number of litters you should have is NumberOfCats + 1. So, 1 cat + 1 = 2 boxes. Clean them often. Cats are very clean creatures (especially compared to dogs) and are MUCH more likely to have accidents when they feel they do not have a better option than peeing in your bed. That's not their fault. You wouldn't want to step on your own pee/poop either! If you have problems with litter getting kicked out of the box, a litter mat can be helpful.

> Do I need to buy a carrier for the cat?

Yep. You'll eventually need to take him to a vet in all likelihood, and a carrier will make that so much easier, as most cats despise the car. I recommend a hard carrier. The softer ones seem nicer in general, but the hard carriers are easier to clean out, and you never know how a cat will be in the car until... well. They're in it. One of our cats poops and pees every. single. time. So he always gets the hard carrier.

> Should I contact a vet before I get the cat?

The shelter might require you to have a vet already, so I'd probably at least pick one out from google search. They might require you to go get a checkup, but probably not. That's more of a rescue thing, I think. Most shelters have their own in-house vet, so it's not really necessary. Don't be afraid to contact the shelter if he seems to be coughing and wheezing. Upper respiratory infections are very common in shelter environments due to the crowded nature of them, but they are also very treatable, and the shelter will be able to give you medication for him.

> How do I train a cat?

Someone mentioned Jackson Galaxy, who I generally agree is pretty good for training if you have some problems. But most of the time, cats are pretty out-of-the-box ready pets. That is to say, if you have an environment that is good for cats (where you let them have some space, where you don't make a huge amount of loud noise, where they aren't prodded and poked at constantly), they generally don't need training. We've fostered tiny kittens that automatically knew how to use the litter box. We also have boy cats who were not fixed until well into adulthood and have never had problems spraying.
It's instinct to go in the box, especially once they're fixed and don't need to mark territory really.

> For those of you who own a cat/cats, any advice for this first-timer?

Give both of you time to get to know each other. Don't force it. He will come to you, given time and space, and you'll be able to cultivate a better relationship built on trust and mutual respect if he knows that you won't force him to do things that he doesn't want to do (especially at first--think about it like building a friendship with a person; you would trust your friends to do things that you would never trust a stranger to do, and it's the same for him).

Cooing and gentle words are generally pretty good for coaxing, as is letting him smell your hand/something that smells like you before you approach for pets. Think about it like introducing yourself. You wouldn't go up to someone you didn't know well and just touch them without at least saying hi.

Every cat I have ever known, male or female, fixed or not, will pee in a pile of anything if it is left long enough. They see it as 'trash,' and I think it just registers as litter. So, if you are the type to leave clothes on the floor... I would try to stop that.

Keep nails trimmed. Scratching posts are for sharpening nails, which is an instinct that they have to fulfill, and you're giving them an outlet for. Some people think it's for 'filing' the nails down, but it's not. It's for keeping them sharp enough to get prey. You'll have to trim them.

And this is just my own personal opinion, but... young--but not kitten--boy cats are best for first timers. I have one girl, and I absolutely adore her, but she is very high maintenance/prissy/touchy, whereas my three boys are all pretty chill. Each cat is different though, so obviously your mileage may vary! It's just something I've noticed in general in my time of owning and fostering cats, that boys are more laid back/forgiving than girls (and thus I think a little easier for a first timer). Young adults are also great for first timers because you have less accidents (though that's generally not a big concern anyway) and they're more able to be on their own for longer periods of time. Older adults/seniors are great too if you want a really, really chill, more stand-offish cat, or if you want a cat that you'll have for <10 years, but if you want a little more energy and time, a cat that's about 1-2 years old is a GREAT way to go.

Some toys that are great for cats include the classic laser pointer, the feather toy, catnip toys, and crinkle balls.

Cats prefer to drink away from where they eat, so place his food bowl and his water bowl apart from one another! Some cats also prefer running water to still water, so if you notice your cat likes drinking out of the faucet (or if you just want to spoil your cat like I spoil mine...) you can get a water fountain for him!

Finally, if it's not working out for some reason, like your personalities just don't mesh well... take him back. I know it sounds hard, but it's best for him if he is in an environment where he is understood and his needs are met. There's no sense in forcing both of you to be miserable. Some shelters let you do a foster-to-adopt sort of thing, where you sort of try each other out for a bit. I like this option, because you hope for the best, but it feels a little bit easier to tap out if you need to. Either way, there's no shame in tapping out. Sometimes things just don't work the way you thought they would.

Sorry for the novel, but I wanted to be as thorough as I could. My parents recently got their first cat, and it's been... an ordeal for them, getting used to it.
It's great that you have some experience with cats though, so I think you'll be fine! Seriously, cats are sort of the next level up from a goldfish as far as easiness. Should be fine.

I hope you and your new furbaby are super, super happy together! :)

u/doublepulse · 45 pointsr/NeckbeardNests

Reformed ladynester here: the key to keeping clothespolisions curbed is multiple laundry baskets. One for semi-dirty "eh, I could wear this again" items, one for dirty laundry, and one for clean clothes (so you aren't putting restaurant grimy clothes in a basket, washing the load, then returning the clean stuff into the same basket.) I will also suggest getting a cat litter mat. This is the one I used before my kitty passed away. It isn't perfect but it curbs the amount of litter getting tracked around. As for cutting weed and cat box smells- grab a couple of boxes of baking soda. Put baking soda in the cat box (good couple of shakes at the bottom of the pan) and leave the baking soda boxes open. It'll help absorb the smells. (Source- former stoner, cat lover, fragrance fanatic.)

u/whitecolander · 32 pointsr/DIY

Poop/pee be stank. Here are my litter box tips:

  1. Arm n Hammer C&S: http://amzn.com/B00HJJUS1Q . It works.

  2. Stay on top of it. Scoop and dump poop right away if you can.

  3. Un-neutered males have very strong smelling urine. So will cats that are dehydrated.

  4. If pee smell is the problem, you can try filling the bottom of the litter pan with Pine: http://amzn.com/B0009YUEG2 . I've tried using Pine only, and that doesn't work for me.

  5. If you have a lidded cat box, be sure to wash the lids every now and then. Cat urine can make the lids super stank.

u/FosterKittenMama · 20 pointsr/bulletjournal

Oh! Oh! If you can't tell by my username, I can help here!

First of all, based on the $85 fee I'm assuming you're adopting adult cats? Thank you so much! Adult cats take forever to find their furever homes. If they're kittens THANK YOU for adopting them in pairs! It's more important than most people think! But no matter what, the one time fee means that you're choosing to adopt instead of supporting a breeder. I thank you from the bottom of my heart for this! I foster kittens that are constantly coming and going, so I've gotten a pretty good list of cheap things that work well. Sorry in advance for the wall of text. If you need ANY help at all when it comes to anything cat related, please ask!

  • Food - Make sure you give them whatever the shelter gives them even if you plan on transitioning. It's important that you do it slowly. Here is a good article about how to do it. I highly recommend not going cheap here. If you spend money on one thing, a good diet is where to spend it on! I recommend grain free and/or limited ingredient diets, but I'm not a vet so I'd talk to yours about specifics.
    • Food bowl: You wouldn't think a little bowl would be so damn expensive, but it is. I have a dozen or so of these bowls for the kittens since I use many at a time, but I'd recommend starting out with 4 and see how you do there. Basically have 4 bowls (two to give to each cat for food, and an extra 2 for when the dirty bowls are in the wash). Almost any bowl will work, including the ones you have, but if you were thinking of buying one of those $73.12 bowls because you think your cat needs it and it has a silicone bottom, don't. They're a huge waste of money.
  • Litter/box: Skip all the weird stuff/scents to put in your litter box to get rid of the smell. Just get unscented litter and baking soda. Sprinkle the baking soda on the bottom of the box, fill half your litter, sprinkle some more, fill the rest of your litter. You will also want 2 litter boxes at a minimum. The general rule of thumb is a box per cat + an extra one. As for litter box, I love this one, and here looks like a cheaper and similar version. As for litter, I HIGHLY recommend clumping because non clumping is a nightmare (we need to use it for very small kittens since they can ingest the clumping and it can hurt them). I use petco's bulk litter and love it. If you have one near you, you can pick up a big bin and refill it as needed for a lower price. Here is the big bag of it, but I think a refill on a 30lb thing is 10 dollars?
  • Scratcher: Cats need to scratch, and they'll do it if you provide them with a scratcher or if you provide them with your own furniture. I would recommend at least one of these for each cat, plus maybe a couple extra depending on how big your home is. I have these everywhere because of of my kitties loves using them as beds. Soft fluffy stuff? Not a chance. Hard cardboard? Now we're talking! He's weird, and one of your beauties may be too. This is the best value one I could find, but really any of them would work. I also like this one because it's bed shaped-ish so they can also lay in it.
  • Vet care: Every year you'll need to get vaccines and preferably a checkup for each one of your cats. I know petco recently started doing a clinic day where they JUST the vaccines for something like 40 bucks or something, but that doesn't come with a checkup which I would recommend. I would ask your shelter about low cost vet clinics in your area, I'm sure they would know! I can't find a link where you can put in your zip code and get a list or I would link it :(
  • Toys: This is probably the easiest category to overspend in so don't. There's a lot of fancy looking toys that are great, but your cat gets bored of them quickly and even the best ones will get destroyed. I highly recommend buying a few kinds of cheap toys and seeing what your cat likes. Then regularly replacing them so it's new and shiny! For toys that'll fit in a bag, I like to have a catnip bag that I put some catnip in with the toys. Every so often I'll take toys out of the bag and the cats lose their minds. If after they get bored they're still in good condition - back in the bag they go!
    • Sparkle balls: These become choking hazards really quick, but cats LOVE THEM. I just bought these and they seem to be holding up well. Just like the food, I wouldn't recommend going cheap on them. The good news though is that even the good ones are still pretty cheap! Your local pet store will usually have good quality ones of these as well. Just don't get those "100 sparkle balls for 2 dollars!" off amazon.
    • Multipack: I LOVE this pack because it has a little bit of everything to see what kitty likes. The only downside is that the tunnel is pretty small. That's perfect for my foster kittens, but not so much for an adult cat. If you get it and the tunnel is too small, donate it to your shelter! Something like this also gives you a cheap way to stock up on a variety of toys.
    • Cat Dancer: I buy these in bulk they're so amazing. The link I'm giving you currently has the price of $4.20, but on November 2nd another seller will have them back at stock for 2 bucks each. I wouldn't buy them at 4 dollars, but at 2 they're a steal. The company also has a thing where you can hook them onto your wall and cats will play with it while you're gone. I bought it but haven't set it up yet. Another thing I LOVE about this is that you can wrap them around something.
    • Fishing pole toy: I call all of these kinds of toys a fishing pole toy. It's essentially a stick with something dangling from it. Cats go CRAZY for them and this is a good and cheap one. I also stick the pole part in couch cushions or between the bed and box spring so it's dangling.
  • Cat tower: Honestly, some cats love them, some cats don't. I would eventually get a cat tower (at least one), but don't let it stop you from adopting! Your local pet store will have tons, but I've seen some very happy people who got a massive crazy one for cheap off amazon. I have 4 (3 for my cats, one for the kitten room) that all get very loved but I honestly have no idea where I got them from or I'd link it to you!
u/kt-bug17 · 15 pointsr/AmItheAsshole

Good luck to you!

If your parents allow you to keep the cat I would highly encourage you to check out some resources on cat behavior and cat care, as many people new to cats don’t really know as much as they think they know.

Basic important information you need to know off the bat:

  • Remember that your cat is not a dog. Oftentimes people not familiar with cats try to treat the cat like it’s a small dog that meows, which leads to lots of stress and frustration on the cat and the owner’s parts. Cats are cats- their behaviors, body language, thought process, and needs are different than canines and it’s not fair to the cat to expect it to act like what it’s not. Appreciate your cat for the awesome animal that it is.
  • DON’T DECLAW!! It is a barbaric procedure that involves amputating the tips of the cat’s toes, and leads to painful joints and behavioral issues later on. Scratching furniture and people can be prevented through training, and being aware of how to properly interact with the cat. Items like Sticky Paws furniture tape and Soft Paws claw caps are useful tools to prevent furniture scratching.
  • Provide the cat with a good sturdy scratching post and some way to get up high, either using cat furniture or shelves. That way they have territory they can “claim” and feel confident in your home.
  • Don’t free feed (where you keep their bowl filled with food 24/7). This is how you end up with a fat cat, as cats will continue to eat all day even when they’re not really hungry. Figure out what is the proper daily portion of food for your cat and divide that up into 2-3 meals throughout the day.
  • Play with your cat EVERY DAY! This is one of the most important things you can do for your kitty! Sooooo many cat behavioral problems can be totally avoided or gotten rid of by simply playing with your cat and allowing them to get rid of all their built up energy.
  • Clean the litter box yourself EVERY DAY!! Do not get lazy with this chore and make sure you do it without having to be asked first!!!! This will help prevent “going outside the litter box” issues (as cats don’t want to use a filthy, stinky bathroom anymore than you do) and will make your parents more likely to allow you to keep the cat. Something like a Litter Genie makes cleaning the litter box easier, as then you only have to take the waste to the trash once a week-ish instead of every day.

    My recommendations for more info on cats:

  • Jackson Galaxy. Amazing cat behaviorist who’s videos are super helpful in explaining cat behaviors and addressing issues! Definitely watch his videos on playtime, petting your cat, and feeding.
  • Cat Behavior Associates. Great website with detailed information on cat behavior and training.
  • Think Like A Cat. This book is a handy guide on everything related to cat ownership- health, behavior, communication, food, cat furniture, etc.
u/Prisaneify · 14 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I'd really really really like these:

Kindle Case - $12.99

Shampoo - $30.90

Laundry detergent - $19.29

Cat Litter - $15.99

Notecards - $13.99

u/Koala_96 · 12 pointsr/cats

This is the one I use for my two cats:
IRIS Open-Top Cat Litter Box with Clear High-Shield without Scoop, Navy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069Z5PBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BQYXCbE5GJWSM

u/Midgers · 6 pointsr/Pets

I have a puker. Things that really improved his pukeyness was a cat supplement that helps them with their gut. (Links below) Its advertised to help with poop issues, but will definitely help with puke issues as well.

You also need to make sure that there is NO grains in his/her food. Cats shouldn't have any grains in their food. Lots of cheap pet food use that as filler. Secondly, a lot of cheap food uses sub par ingredients. Check your cats food for chicken by product. It's bad for them. Its basically all the parts left over from taking the good stuff from the chicken. Wikipedia defines it as "It is made from grinding clean, rendered parts of poultry carcasses and can contain bones, offal and undeveloped eggs, but only contains feathers that are unavoidable in the processing of the poultry parts." Sounds pretty yucky, huh? You wouldn't eat it, so why should you feed it to your cat?
Crappy cat foods use a ton of fillers that are basically the equivalent to a bag of cheetos to humans.

Switch to a brand that is grain free and uses whole meats such as the wellness I linked below. Blue buffalo is also a good alternative. Do you feed your cat wet food? If not, try feeding a good wet food (Linked below). My cats love the core wellness wet food and really eating wet food is better than an all dry diet.

All this stuff is a little pricey, but its worth it in the long run. Taking him to the vet all the time is probably more expensive than switching to a better food. Do it slowly as well, like over a week or two.

Basically anything you can find in your grocery store's pet isle you shouldn't be feeding your pet. Its all junk. Even the "high end" purnia foods. Junk. I know purina makes a sensitive stomach formula for cats. I tried it and it didn't help my furry little puke machine at all. All these crappy foods don't really fill your cat up as much as a good food will so they will be hungrier more often because the quality of the food is just crap.

How I solved my cat puke problem was feeding them wet food in the morning and evening and leaving out a small bowl of dry food for them to snack on throughout the day. If your cat isn't really super hungry than they will eat a bit slower and that'll keep her from throwing up. Some cats don't handle the self regulating diet and instead just end up eating more food, so figure out if your cat(s) can handle grazing between wet food meals.

You can also try getting a cat water fountain and placing it somewhere separate from their water. Cats are weird and don't like their water near their food. Cats get most of their water from their food but having a flowing water source can really help them up their water intake. If cats don't get enough water they are prone to developing kidney and bladder problems. The Drinkwell Platinum Pet Fountain is really good. I have mine in my bathroom and my cats really enjoy playing with the water and getting their paws wet and licking them etc etc.

As for the stains, the stain remover I linked below is a god send. It's a good product that cleans up stains really well. It even does cat pee. I have light carpets and this stuff takes it right out and leaves no marks behind. It should even work on your old stains, you just have to leave it a little longer.

I know all this stuff adds up to a ton of money but its so worth it not to have to clean up cat puke all the time. I did a ton of research for my puke machine and he went from puking 3-4 times a week to puking maybe every 3 months and then its usually just a hairball. His coat also looked better and he was softer.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'd be happy to help you figure this out and field any more questions about how I solved my cats puke problems.

Wellness


Core Wellness Wet Food


Stain Remover


[puke helper](
http://www.amazon.com/Purina-Fortiflora-Feline-Nutritional-Supplement/dp/B001650OE0/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1368101518&sr=1-2&keywords=fortiflora)

Cat Nutritional Supplements

u/Swtcherrypie · 6 pointsr/RATS

I would suggest getting at least one friend for him but preferably 2, assuming you want to start the cycle of rat ownership again. And you'll want to get rats of the same gender, unless you want babies once a month. Having 3 rats is very helpful if something happens and you lose a rat. It helps the remaining rats if they can cope with the loss of a buddy together and may lessen the chances of them getting overly depressed. And in most situations, the more rats you have, the happier they will be. They're highly social and tend to like having a bigger family.

If you're getting food at the store, stay away from seed mix type foods such as this. It's not healthy for them, and the dried corn in it can cause liver cancer. I'd recommend a block/kibble type rat food such as Oxbow. You can even buy the adult formula of Oxbow and just supplement with extra protein once or twice a week; and, in general, most rats don't seem to like the Garden Select variety, so keep that in mind too. You'll want to give them fresh veggies regularly and fruits as a treat (as too much fruit can cause runny poops.) I like referring to this guide when introducing new foods as some foods are very dangerous for rats, and some are only dangerous for a specific gender.

When getting a cage (NOT an aquarium) make sure you get 1/2" bar spacing to avoid escapes. And you can use this handy cage calculator to make sure your cage will be big enough. Some cages sold as rat cages are not actually big enough for adults to comfortably live and stretch out in. If you use a loose substrate bedding, stay away from cedar or pine (unless it's kiln dried pine) though kiln dried aspen tends to be the most recommended wood shaving bedding. Some people use recycled paper bedding, though it isn't as good at absorbing smells as the aspen or pine. If you use fleece, you'll need to change it more frequently than a loose substrate but it's much less messy, though terrible for controlling odor. I personally do a mix of both, loose bedding in the bottom of the cage and fleece lining the rest of the shelves.

You'll also want to consider getting a litter pan to litter train them, and use a different type of litter in the pan so they associate it with a bathroom area. I personally like using critter litter by Kaytee. Also, find a smooth flat rock to keep in the litter pan. For some reason rats like peeing on rocks.

You'll want to make sure to have enough hides, hammocks, etc for each rat to have their own if they aren't feeling like being cuddled up or just need a break from the other rats. Space pods are highly loved by most rats. I have 2 in my cage, one on each level. Cardboard boxes are a big hit as well. I buy cheap boxes of Kleenex and just shove the whole thing in the cage (after removing the plastic stuff around the opening.) They love "decorating" their cage with it, and they can use the box as another hide when they're done. PVC is also a big hit with a lot of rats. You can make little tunnels for them to hide or play in and some people even drill holes in them (for ventilation and) to suspend them from the roof of the cage to help change it up a little.

Also, you'll want to spot clean/pick up stray poops throughout the week until cage cleaning day comes. After the cage is clean (leaving 1-2 "dirty" things in their cage to prevent over cleaning, thus leading to over marking after you spent all that time cleaning) I suggest completely rearranging their cage each time. It keeps their minds stimulated and makes them highly interested in exploring their "new" home week after week. It's especially fun for them if you hide treats throughout the cage for them to find.

Lastly, you'll want to keep an emergency vet budget set aside. Rats don't need routine visits like a dog necessarily, but there is a high chance your rats will need to go to the rat at some point during their lives. They have a very delicate immune system and URIs are very common, as well as myco flareups, as almost all rats carry myco. You can read the article linked in the sidebar for more info on that. And in my experience, it tends to be emergency/short notice needs for the vet. Rats are prey animals and will hide an illness until they are no longer capable of hiding it, and by then they are usually pretty sick. Prices vary from area to area, but where I am, I expect to spend around $60-90 for a visit, including medications; from what I've read on here though, I'm on the lower end of the price range and some people easily spend double that.

Sorry this got a lot longer than I had expected it to, and if you read it all, thank you. If you have any questions, this sub is a great place and has a lot of great and very helpful people here. Good luck with your new baby (and future babies.)

u/kropotkit · 5 pointsr/insanepeoplefacebook
u/RetroFocusNano · 4 pointsr/onebag

I use silica gel cat litter tied in a panty hose sock. Just stuff the sock in the shoe when you take it off, absorbs the moisture and stink.

Just don’t use scented silica gel. Find some cheap panty hose knee high socks. I have some that have been in use for years.

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Choice-Crystals-Bag-4-Pound/dp/B0017JFS3M/ref=sr_1_50?keywords=silica+gel+pet&qid=1569237523&sr=8-50

u/DinkaAnimalLover · 4 pointsr/Rabbits

You can use a litter box like this one (example here) - it's transparent so you can still monitor poops, but less spreading.

Use a hayrack to minimize the mess like here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLouX_cwM40

​

Also provide a dedicated digging box so she makes the mess in there only https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wesyTFX72DY.

​

Invest into a good vacuum:

  1. Shop vac is on the cheaper side - it's great, fantastic sucking, sucks up all the hay and never gets clogged
  2. Miele is on the expensive side - but great with hair and good for people with allergies

    ​

    For quick pick me up this lint roller is great https://www.simplygoodstuff.com/lintroller_large.html
u/P3N9U1Nren · 3 pointsr/cats

I’ve never found a litter that doesn’t track, but BlackHole mats work well in my experience. I used two. I’ll check for a link in a second. I prefer it more than anything else I’ve tried. The cats don’t mind walking on it and it’s soooo easy to empty.

BlackHole Cat Litter Mat

u/AwfulWaffleWalker · 3 pointsr/CatsAreAssholes

Link. Arm & hammer also makes one.

u/TwlStED_CaPtaIN · 3 pointsr/AnimalsBeingJerks

I would recommend this one

IRIS Top Entry Cat Litter Box with Cat Litter Scoop, Black & Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VT99XF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_J4vQDbK6TWMD6

u/193699 · 3 pointsr/Pets
  • For future reference: for each cat you have, make sure to have +1 litter box for the total amount of cats you have. For instance, you have one right now? Try to have 2 if you have the space for it.

  • Doggy bags have been great for us when cleaning our cat's litter contents (lol), but we also invested in a litter genie which is honestly the best purchase. This litter deodorizer comes at a close second.

  • The Furminator is great for brushing, but some cats don't like it. Mine likes the Kong Brush, but we also tested out grooming mitts and fine tooth combs too. It completely depends on your little one.

  • I've seen a few comments on r/pets about Blue Buffalo dry food being tied to more urine crystals, but I generally try to limit how much dry food I give my cat since she doesn't tend to go to her drinking fountain as often as we'd like.

  • If you haven't already got a cat tree/scratchpost/tower, check out your local Marshalls or TJ Maxx. They have really great options and for much cheaper than some pet stores and they're usually assembled.

u/myotape · 3 pointsr/doughboys

That one looks awesome! Pretty expensive too. Typing in litter robot on Amazon I think I found the one they were talking about: Omega Paw Elite Self Cleaning Roll 'n Clean Litter Box, Midnight Black, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074L82WFD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1DuRBb3PPBQKA

u/LaTortugaConQueso · 3 pointsr/RATS
u/Tacorgasmic · 3 pointsr/bestoflegaladvice

I have this: Omega Paw Elite Self Cleaning Roll 'n Clean Litter Box, Midnight Black, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074L82WFD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3Rk9AbT96MXNJ. It's a bit expensive, but so worth it!

Roll it slowly until is almost upside down, hit the bottom two or three times to lossen up the litter that got stuck at the bottom, turn it right and take out the scoop on the side. It only take 3 minutes top. If you're confused (like everyone is the first time I try to explain it), start this video at 1:35 https://youtu.be/ySGsis-W10A

And it's really big. I have two cats and when is full of litter I can take two days to clean it. I could leave it for more time (a friend of mine does), but I don't like to leave it for too long and is easy to do.

u/vakerr441 · 2 pointsr/Chonkers

This is one one I bought for my chonker, he seems to be able to turn around fairly easily, the top also is not necessary so it can be removed: Petphabet Jumbo Hooded Cat Litter Box, Extra Large, Teal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EGUWC0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9HHMDbSVEJ2H9

u/thezlog · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Rice is OK, but the starch dust can actually cause some issues with the keys in some scenarios.

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Choice-Crystals-Bag-4-Pound/dp/B0017JFS3M

That stuff is the same stuff in those tiny pouches when you buy electronics. It won't leave everything mega-dusty (or gummy).

u/daiyanoace · 2 pointsr/dogs

My ACD mix sheds a TON. I vacuum once a week and use Arm & Hammer pet fresh carpet powder when I vacuum. And she gets baths once a month (she doesn’t get dirty) and my house doesn’t smell like dog

u/ajantaju · 2 pointsr/ValveIndex

Here's one way to obtain large amounts of silica.

u/carissalf · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Oh no!! This is supposed to be amazing at removing cat odors.

The one cat we rescued initially just peed...everywhere. On the chair, on the brand new mattress, shoes, towels...everything. Thankfully he's stopped. But, I feel your pain.

u/lilj0nyeah · 2 pointsr/cats

I have a recommendation from a vet-student of mine: Purina Pro-Plan. It encompasses extremely high-quality ingredients, affordable prices and various flavors/specialty blends. The dry food or wet variant are both excellent for your kitty, but the dry food will be cheaper. I would use the wet food if the kitty doesn't adhere well to drinking water as the wet-food contains high amounts of water. If you have any other questions please don't hesitate to ask. Congratulations on becoming a kitty owner!

Here are my recommendations on supplies:

Litter box: http://www.amazon.com/Catit-Jumbo-Hooded-Cat-Litter/dp/B003RQVGKC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458653&sr=8-2&keywords=litter+box

Litter scooper: http://www.amazon.com/Duranimals-DuraScoop-Litter-Scoop-colors/dp/B001DCAAP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458674&sr=8-1&keywords=litter+scooper

Litter: http://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Premium-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458691&sr=8-1&keywords=cat+litter (cheaper if you buy this one at PetSmart believe it or not)

Kitten food: http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Plan-Chicken-Formula-7-Pound/dp/B003R0LLXU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458746&sr=8-1&keywords=purina+pro+plan+kitten

Litter mat: http://www.amazon.com/PetFusion-SmartGrip-Litter-Gray-Twist/dp/B007SQFRMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458842&sr=8-1&keywords=litter+box+mat

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

There once was a cat litter scoop

Its job was to clean up the poop,

The job seemed to never end,

and it seemed like a new trend,

for the poo to be be sloppy and droop.

u/Occamstazer · 2 pointsr/Pets

This stuff is the bomb diggity. It saved my sofa after a certain Rottweiler got a little too excited about guests.

u/ViciousJungleChicken · 2 pointsr/AskWomen

Crazy cat lady here, I have four in my apartment. Unless they are lying to me, everyone that comes over is always shocked I have cats because it doesn't smell like it "should". I have two air purifiers in the house these and I have this one that sits directly on top of the litter box. I've had my four cats around 10 years and also fostered probably about... 30. So I feel like I've tried it all and I finally have a good ritual and set up. I use this litter box because it's big and tall which they prefer but also easy to get inside when it's time to clean. I use this track mat because so far it's really done the best to keep the litter from traveling far from the box. And like you, I clean it 2-3 times a day. The litter that is. I use this litter which is LIGHT YEARS better than anything else I've ever used. One of my cats also has horrible allergies and this is the one litter I've found that she doesn't react to. It also doesn't dust so you don't have to constantly feel like poofs of litter are showing up around the house or on the carpet or furniture. I also vacuum every single day. I have one vacuum I use for the floor where there may be litter tracked and another I use that never touches litter. I think this is fairly important. This vacuum honestly is the best I've found for hair. Miracle worker. Unless you can afford the Dyson Animal. I also have this spray that I'll use for my carpet and fabric once a month or so and I feel like it makes a huge difference. And then lastly I also keep windows open whenever I can and I have this diffuser and put oil in it a few times a week and let it run for a bit, plus it looks cool with the lights :) Oh! and one last thing that I think is great... put one of those cardboard scratch pads near the litter box so the cat has to step over it to get anywhere else. Like off the track mat but near the box. I do this and all the cats inevitably use the scratch pad for fun when walking by it but I'm convinced it also cleans their paws from any litter left over before they start walking around the rest of the house!

u/Batshit_Betty · 2 pointsr/Assistance

Howdy. I have a little bit left over on an Amazon gift card. I just went to send you the cat litter, but the litter you've chosen won't show up until the 26th, even though it says it's Prime eligible.

Do you still want to use that brand, or find one that can get there faster? I found this one that says it can get there by Friday.

If you want to use a different kind of litter, let me know when you have it added to your wish list.

Also, when I found myself up shit creek without a paddle, I was also in Minnesota. If you have questions about navigating the social services system, I'll happily try to answer them.

u/Xvash2 · 2 pointsr/hockeyplayers

Your standard oxi-clean should be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/OxiClean-Versatile-Stain-Remover-7-22/dp/B005GI8UOO/

You can also try using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Angry-Orange-Eliminator-Industrial-Strength/dp/B00OI20SXA

I don't know about salvaging your bag (take it out back and hose it down?) but you should be able to do a bathtub brew to clean your gear like normal.

Fill with hot water, put gear in with laundry detergent. Let sit for an hour or two, stirring occasionally. Drain water, wash gear to remove suds. Re-fill with hot water and let sit again for an hour or two. Drain water, re-fill and repeat with Oxi-clean/pet stain remover thingy.

Once done, hang to dry all your gear in the bathroom with the bathroom fan on.

Once you are through this process, rotate dryer sheets in your bag weekly to help keep the smell fresh.

u/chimkinnuggies · 2 pointsr/CleaningTips

First- Congrats on your new kitty! They're so much fun and full of character, I'm sure you will love having one.

​

Others already hit on some great points, so I'll offer my personal favorites for keeping mess down and controlling shedding.

u/lovellama · 2 pointsr/breakingmom

>Did you guys know that the doors, out of all things, can be FILTHY AS FUCK?!

Once a week I have to go through the house and wipe down the edges of all the doors, and the door frames. @@

For the microwave, you've gotten good advice. I take a pyrex glass measuring cup (2 cup size), almost fill it with water and then add a 1/4 cup lemon juice. Nuke that sucker on high for 2 minutes. Dip a sponge or a rag in the hot water (juggling the sponge from hand to hand until it's cool enough to barely handle), then wipe down the inside of the microwave.

How soon do you have until the family comes over? I get an orange pet cleaner from amazon that you mix with water and spray. It's worked well so far, our male cat likes to mark stuff in the basement. Just yesterday I had to wash DD's hockey bag with a shot of the orange stuff as TheCat got to it.

u/annabananana7 · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

My rabbit needs critter litter! Thanks for the contest!

u/Jessie_James · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Get a larger box.

Then get this thing:

http://www.amazon.com/Blackhole-Cat-Litter-Mat-Rectangular/dp/B00G67FD6W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397663457&sr=8-2&keywords=cat+litter+mat

I was amazed at how well it works at catching the litter, and then you can easily pour it back into the box.

u/mindzipper · 2 pointsr/cats

I disagree with some of these answers, I rarely replace the litter in any of my cat boxes (i have 3). but to do this you have to clean it VERY frequently. I clean my litter boxes at a minimum 3 times per day. the only thing i ever have to do is add litter from time to time. a 40lb box of cheapo litter i get will last me about 2 weeks.

I might change the litter once every 3 or 4 months

I have to clean the box this often because I have one diabetic cat that uses all 3 boxes. he pees a lot. and the key is to not let pee sit in the box. that's what makes it stink. the faster you clean that out the longer your litter will last.

finally, I buy my scoopers from amazon. metal, not flimsy plastic. it sounds like maybe the scooper you have has wider holes, or the litter isnt clumping right. i very rarely have a piece that I can't get out.

this is what I use. http://www.amazon.com/Duranimals-DuraScoop-Litter-Scoop-colors/dp/B001DCAAP4?ie=UTF8&keywords=litter%20scoop&qid=1464045417&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3

u/firelikedis · 2 pointsr/Pets

I've used Tidy, Fresh Step, the regular A&H, and some other rando brands. Best I've ever found is A&H's Clump&Seal.

Every other variety had the problem you described except this one. It's kind of a thinner grain that clumps and dries well and its odor protection completely works as advertised.

u/Sylvene · 2 pointsr/Pets

I have a cat that misses 50% of the time too. Poo as well as pee. I just bought this box with a translucent shield and open top (since she won't use a covered box) and should have it in two days. I hope it helps!

u/jjjigglypuff · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

Try Nature's Miracle urine remover, and then Bissel upholstery shampoo - a few reviews said it works for pet odors and stains and even projectile vomiting where Resolve failed.
I use Nature's Miracle products with my puppy when he has floor (wood floor, not carpet) accidents and it's like nothing ever happened.

u/csaliture · 2 pointsr/AnimalsBeingDerps

I just bought this one for $18 on amazon. My cat throws litter everywhere so I thought I'd see if this type of box helps.

u/hellcicle · 1 pointr/CatLifeProTips

When we adopted our second cat, we had a similar problem until the second and third litter boxes arrived. You will alway have issues with the litter outside box, but the wet prints went away with us. We also lined the floor where there is a litter box with litter mats.

Easyology Premium Cat Litter Mat, XL Super Size, Light Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016BWB7R0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Yxy9hvaNF2dS2

u/tomgabriele · 1 pointr/DIY

Parts:

195 CFM blower: $25 on Amazon

Carbon filter: $40 on Amazon

The smart outlet is a cheap one from idr where

The motion sensor is the Smartthings one

The litter box is similar to this one.

u/ecofriend94 · 1 pointr/Rabbits

Never had a lion head before or a longer-haired bun so I don't have any specific tips for them...

​

The main reason I am not a fan of the corner litter boxes like that is because I do not think they have enough space for them to move around, even the large ones. My buns is a high-top cat litter box, with a big pile of hay stacked in front of the "entrance." I like that it is large and a rectangular so the hay can be inside the box and the bun doesn't have to reach for a bowl or rack. :) Here is another type that might work best for your situation: https://www.amazon.com/IRIS-Open-Top-Litter-High-Shield-without/dp/B0069Z5PBY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=TXBV1JJ76LOI&keywords=high+top+cat+litter+box&qid=1554861471&s=gateway&sprefix=high+top+cat+litter%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-3

​

My bun sits in his box for a long time munching on hay, I personally wouldn't want him to have to stand on a grate that long. Unless your bun digs in the hay or pushes it out of the box I wouldn't recommend a grate. If you let them roam outside of their designated room, say in your living room, a grate set up could help with the mess. I wouldn't put the grate set-up in boxes that they use often such as the one in their enclosure and in their room.

​

Putting a rug or a mat in front of the litter box makes the mess a little easier to clean up - a lot of the litter will catch on the rug when they hop out of the litter box, I just pick up the rug and shake the excess into the litter box every now and then. Having a hay rack mounted somewhere with circular holes could work as well, I have a rack on the second level of my buns cage, all the hay he may spill goes right into the litter box.

​

All in all, it's almost impossible to not have hay all over the place. I personally don't have a problem with the house having hay around. I definitely recommend getting a small vacuum though. I always clean up weekly and whenever I have company over I like to clean up all the hay. My buns designated room is always littered with hay, you get used to it. I do understand your concern though. :)

u/half-and-half-scarf · 1 pointr/DIY

> Arm n Hammer C&S: http://amzn.com/B00HJJUS1Q . It works.

Why does it come in such strange package sizes? 14, 19 and 28 lb. Why not 15, 20, 30? Is that common in the US? Are these values special somehow?

u/Kappen_ · 1 pointr/CatAdvice

These are a little pricey, but I'd start with a litter mat of some kind to see if it helps.

u/billwashere · 1 pointr/prusa3d

Put it in a sealed bag and put the bag in a closed container with some desiccant, like the crystal cat litter. Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J5GE3MA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y4pPCbMDZMQM4

For the sealed box I have something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C882DVV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_h8pPCb5YNJPMA

I usually put the cat litter in a sock and tie it off. Cold is actually bad for the filament especially if you try to print with right after taking it out.

I live in the very humid south and this work even for the really hygroscopic TPU stuff.

If you’re really paranoid you could put one of these in the box:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iaqPCb7NZ81DB
I have even seen people cut a hole in the container just big enough to see the screen and seal around it (search on Thingiverse).

Hope this helps.

u/betona · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I've used Nature's Miracle on a smaller scale -- you might check into that.

u/icefreez · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Yeah, that seems way to high for what it does. You can get a manual roll litter box for $60. So... that roughly translates into $440 worth of electronics...

u/amooseyfate · 1 pointr/aww

Or an easy self cleaning box.

2 cat household ( calico Lucifur, and tabby Bast)

We have this one love it! Roll and dump :)

u/buttbugle · 1 pointr/AnimalsBeingJerks

Scooping the cat box is one of the most despised chore in the house. Until I bought a few of these boxes. https://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Clean-Litter-Brown/dp/B01N4KIKOM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2IPDDGTJLOQK2&keywords=omega%2Bcat%2Blitter%2Bbox&qid=1550865665&s=gateway&sprefix=omega%2Bcat%2B&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

We have three of them in the house. Two in the basement and one on the main floor. It takes less than five minutes to clean all of them. No more scooping. You have to use clumping litter though.

That cleaner the wife uses and really likes. She also makes some kind of oil spray with lemon and peppermint oils. The house smells like an essential oil MLM trap. LoL

u/madcatzfight · 1 pointr/funny

I believe it is the silica cat litter, like the little desiccant packs you get in electronics Ect.
Such as this.
Clear Choice Silica Crystals Cat Litter Bag, 4-Pound https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017JFS3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cJ8HybQG3YB3V

u/Pizzapizzapocket · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I usually just soak up as much as I can, sprinkle baking soda, and then vacuum it up. Also, invest in Nature's Miracle. BEST STUFF EVER. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^quaffle

u/STFftw · 1 pointr/Rabbits

I use a thin layer of [Critter Litter] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Superpet-Critter-Litter-3-63-Kg/dp/B0002DJG0U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407748620&sr=8-1&keywords=critter+litter) at the bottom of the potty and then Lavender Woodshavings on top - as well as changing the potty once a day - this seems to keep the smell to a minimum. Just make sure that your bun doesn't try to eat the critter litter pellets! I do use candles occasionally in the room also, but well away from the buns' cage and it doesn't seem to bother her :) *Edit - spelling

u/GoAskAlice · 1 pointr/AmItheAsshole
u/carloselcoco · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

> /u/MYOPATHYHURTS

u/NoOneUnsullied · 1 pointr/ZeroWaste

I use the pine litter and double layer box as well. It's cheap and lasts way longer than regular litter. I can't really say too much on the smell though. The litter itself smells way better, but since it doesn't clump around the poop when the cat does its business you can smell that. Either that or my cat has lethal shits lol

I also have a Litter Genie which I know isn't zero waste, but it limits the amount of bags I need to use to clean her poop. I scoop it in there and it holds it smell free for about 2-3 weeks before it gets full and I have to take it out.

u/0xB0BAFE77 · 1 pointr/Rabbits

What are you using for litter?
Is it just litter or are you putting hay over it?

As for switching out boxes, I think it's a good ideas. From my experience, buns like to pick "a spot". If you swap out the containers, there's a good chance it won't bother him in the least. You can always try it and if he doesn't like it, put the old one back.

As for litter, we've had a ton of luck with yesterday's news with a little hay on top of it.

u/Dorkamundo · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Freezing on the inside? You have humidity issues my friend.

Are you running your heater on recirculate? Don't... At least certainly not in the winter. (am Minnesotan)

That said, if it's not, you can buy some silica cat litter, put it in a sock in your car and it will absorb the ambient humidity in your car and help a lot.

u/ElanorRigby198 · 1 pointr/CatAdvice

I use something called a Litter Genie. It is like a disposable waste bin for kitty poop but it has a little compartment that traps air out so it kinda helps with the odor. Here is the link:
Litter Genie Pail, Ultimate Cat Litter Disposal System, Locks Away Odors, Includes One Refill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019W0OH48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-qa8Cb58NGZT1

u/doggexbay · 1 pointr/catcare

3 inches depth is a good rule. I scoop the box completely every couple of days, and replace the litter completely every month-ish or if I notice that odors are lingering. I found that getting a good litter scoop took away any reluctance to clean the box I might have had; it just makes the task a lot easier.

Late to the party, but I think you may be buying unnecessarily expensive litter. Pet products are like anything else; the sky's the limit on what you can spend and there will always be a brand ready to sell to high rollers, but unless you're spending that much on a large (25lb+) bags then you can probably look for new litter.

I've been using Swheat Scoop and World's Best Cat Litter for ten years and have consistently found them to be affordable, high quality and low-maintenance. They are plant-based (wheat and corn, respectively), so if opened and then left unattended in a pantry they can attract critters, but they clump well, they don't have any sort of chemical odor that might turn your cat off, and best of all they're flushable—I'm an apartment dweller so being able to scoop the litter whenever I want to without the chore of taking it downstairs to the garbage each time is a great incentive to change it as regularly as my cats need.

Anyway, hope that's helpful! $30/bag if your cat doesn't explicitly need something special that's in that litter is way too much.

u/Amonette2012 · 1 pointr/PetAdvice

I think this is the one we use:

Arm & Hammer Clump & Seal

I am pretty happy with it, and we've tried a few brands so far. I like that it isn't too dusty, but is still really absorbent and easy to sift. Also it lasts a while, I can just keep it topped up as it gets used without it getting too smelly.

I agree with the first poster - the unscented stuff is better because otherwise you're just smelling litter all the time. It's like chlorine in a swimming pool in a way - you can smell the litter box even when it isn't dirty because you're smelling the scent of the litter.

Also you're probably associating the scent of the air fresheners as well.

We have a larger space, so we have less of an issue, but we find that if it does get a bit smelly (like in hotter weather) we just need to open the windows once a day and get some fresh air into the place.

u/Ellaana · 1 pointr/OctoberBumpers2017

It's a bit pricey, but if it stops the pee it's worth every penny. If you are struggling to get the pee smell out of anything, I highly recommend this cleaner

Nature's Miracle Pet Urine Destroyer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003I5ZR16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_358BzbBP0520V

Just let the cleaner soak on the pee spot for a while and it removes the smell. Freaking magical because cat pee is so awful smelling. Both of these products are sold at Petco btw, so no need to order it online if you want/need it NOW.

u/notsure1983 · 1 pointr/halifax

Have you recently changed litter? My cat started vomiting daily...really bad to the point I thought he was dying. Turns out he developed mild asthma and the perfume in most litters was causing a reaction.


I truly truly recommend this for all cat owners....
http://www.amazon.com/YESTERDAYS-PRODUCTS-702303-YesterdayS-News/dp/B004UMLZXA

u/ninjawa · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Yep, I think vacuuming regularly is key. I now live in a mostly hardwood floor house, so we vacuum a few times a week just to keep the fur under control (we have 3 dogs), but when we used to live in an all carpet apartment, we found that vacuuming regularly helped a lot with pet smells. We would also sometimes use Arm & Hammer Carpet Odor Eliminator when we vacuumed, and that seemed to help, too.

u/Rikairchy2 · 1 pointr/guineapigs

The only thing I would worry about are pet fees and cleaning. Per our rental agreement, any pets that are on the carpet are charged a non-refundable fee for cleaning at move out, as well as additional rent tacked on. If they're in a cage, its free. Ours will still play on the floor, but we give them a large towel to do their business on.

We also use this when we let them out to ensure the carpet is clean afterwards. Kills the smells and cleans the carpet quite nicely.

u/langstoned · 1 pointr/woahdude

I grow mine in recycled paper-based cat liter. Learned it from the local myclological society: https://www.amazon.com/YESTERDAYS-PRODUCTS-702303-YesterdayS-News/dp/B004UMLZXA

u/chuckdooley · 1 pointr/funny

I've got a self sifting box and use this crystal litter stuff from amazon....it's $45 for a pack of three, but they last usually two months between the three of them, so it's not too pricy

is this the brand?