(Part 2) Best code readers & scan tools according to redditors
We found 1,337 Reddit comments discussing the best code readers & scan tools. We ranked the 203 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
$85 is insane! You can get a Bluetooth OBDII scanner for $10 on Amazon, and get the Torque app on android for around $3. As far as I can tell, that's identical functionality for $13 bucks.
EDIT:
Yall requested links, so here you go:
I installed the "Lightning Home" launcher replacement, and made it not my default, then I created a homescreen of my most useful Torque widgets and common controls for driving, like a subsonic widget, and maps. I have tasker set up to open the app when I connect to my car's bluetooth and put the phone in my QI charging dock.
They go cheaper without the cable.
NOTE: this is Bluetooth. It does not work with Apple Bluetooth because these are pretty much never "Apple approved" BT devices. iPhone/iPod users will need the WiFi readers. The iOS app is Horsepower, not Torque. I'm not sure about HP, but Torque Lite is free and will read codes and display engine data. Torque (paid) is what's $5.
This is $15 and less than half the size of OP's item. I bought both, both work the same.
Take a look at this one
Automatic AUT-350C Pro Gold 3G Connected Car Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5egrybRD4G45G
No fees or sim card needed
Id start with something line this starter set, a 3/8 breaker bar, 1/2 breaker bar, a Decent torque wrench, a plier set, vice grips, channel locks, adjustable wrench, screw driver set, a multimeter, decent scan tool, a jack, a funnell some drain pans from walmart, pb blaster, jack stands and make some wheel chocks. I'm sure I'm missing something pertinent, but remember you can rent some tools at your local parts store for free with a deposit so check to see what they rent before you buy. Also buy the remainder of the tools as you need them, its tough buying a lot of tools at once especially once you develop an affinity for some quality tools. A lot of the youtube guys have videos on what they use they most, but what I've listed should cover most maintenance tasks for your car.
Get a Bluetooth obd2 dongle and the torque app for android. About $20 for both
scanner
torque
I woudln't buy one without first getting an ELM327 Bluetooth ODBD2 diagnostic scanner and checking the battery's health with LeafSpy for Android or some equivalent to both.
The one I bought in 2014 is this one, but it is currently unavailable.
I'm using this IFTTT recipe( requires Dash app on phone and Google account (for Drive)) and this bluetooth ODB2 adapter to automatically get pretty spreadsheets on my Google Drive showing everything I could ever care about my car trips. Distance, gas consumption (actual and average), average speed, weather, start and end points... It's great.
I keep my OBD2 adapter connected to the car at all times and Dash auto-starts when it detects the OBD2 device over bluetooth.
Check your oil. Your oil light is on. The engine light is a generic "check engine" light, so I can't tell you about that one. It may be just because your oil pressure light is on. Easiest way to find out without spending too much scratch is to get an ODBII scanner and look at the codes. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY
First, oil. If that doesn't clear it, scan it.
Equipment
Must Have Apps
Very excited to be ~95% complete with the install. A couple things left:
More than happy to try to answer questions for anyone else looking to do the same thing. Very happy with the outcome thus far.
I use this guy, http://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Windows/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420043600&sr=8-1&keywords=isaddle+super+mini+elm327
And Torque for Android. Works great, Torque's UI is really stupid though.
Not a complete answer OP..
But I got one of these when I suspected my ex of cheating:
Automatic AUT-350C Pro Gold 3G Connected Car Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_uAAYEAqunJTtg
Just wrap it in electric tape, taps right into the OBDII port and with the tape you can't even see it. It shows travel time, destination address, and I could even use the 3G to look at location real time. Works flawlessly and I actually still have it in case the car is stolen. The accompanying app is a little rudimentary but it has everything you need, and you can even tie it into IFTTT if you want
Edit: since I saw another response, this is $130 or so but requires no battery or monthly plan. It uses 3G cell towers for all the information. Since everything is 4G and up today they don't even bother with a plan
Add to that, have him - or better yet, do it yourself - pull codes. Those trucks were OBD-I, not II, and weren't very vocal about when something was wrong. You can do it with a paper clip and a test light, but I find it a lot less irritating to just use this reader.
And if you're planning on keeping this thing for a long time, when he gives you a list of stuff that needs to be done, instead of paying him, I recommend learning to do it yourself. Most of this stuff isn't hard if you have the tools, patience, and you aren't half assing it.
If the light is on because of a real code, resetting it will only cause it to light up the first time you start the car.
The reason they are hesitant to reset is also in case you are trying to mis-represent the vehicle/in case of accident/insurance claim. If you were selling it, and the light is on because brakes are failing, they might be liable.
That having been said, the solution to what you want is only an Amazon away, and there are tons of cheap options. The one I have cost 7 bucks, got it the next day.
https://smile.amazon.com/OBD2-Scanner-Professional-Diagnostic-Effortlessly/dp/B0725Q6X7B/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536704940&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=reset+check+engine+light&psc=1
(note: This is not the one I got, its tied to a smartphone app by BT which is why it was cheaper. Also not endorsing any product here).
Good luck!
http://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Windows/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416284424&sr=8-2&keywords=iSaddle
You can get this and leave the insurance company out of it.
The reason they do not rent them is because they are surprisingly cheap: https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Automotive-Diagnostic-Compliant-Vehicles/dp/B01I8UJ0V8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1519141724&sr=8-10&keywords=engine+diagnostic+code+reader
I'm pretty sure I found it - This seems to be the beast right here.
OBD2 OBD Scanner Professional Diagnostic Car Scanner Tool and Car Code Reader, One Click Check Engine Light Reset, Fix Car Problems Effortlessly! Read and Clear Trouble Codes for All Cars and Trucks! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725Q6X7B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zXngAb8GSCCXD
I have this and it gives a code and you can just google the code to find out the issue.
If you do decide to code, here's the ODB I purchased. https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6
Another point I'd make about getting a 2015 now. When I purchased mine, it still had three months left of BMW warranty. I immediately took mine to the dealer and got any warranty work done. You won't have that option with a 2015 now. Just food for thought. I'm out of warranty and not worried. It's a very well made car.
You need the Ford specific ELM 327. Other bluetooth scanners can't read Body Control Module codes.
https://www.amazon.com/OHP-Forscan-Adapter-Scanner-HS-Can/dp/B06XJL31Z7/ref=aw_pd_cart_vw_crc_1_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XJL31Z7&pd_rd_r=P7E787FQ7BA64ZE8F2AC&pd_rd_w=THp21&pd_rd_wg=FmhK6&pf_rd_i=mobile-cart-carousels&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=5ea965bb-cb8e-4bc6-a7c1-9a542c380b15&pf_rd_r=P7E787FQ7BA64ZE8F2AC&pf_rd_s=mobile-cart-carousels&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=XF46VDZ5ZETQKXX00FAR
I didn't see any replies regarding this on a quick scan. Do yourself a big favor and get this - https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Automotive-Diagnostic-Compliant-Vehicles/dp/B01I8UJ0V8/ref=sr_1_13?crid=2QWSS54C275TZ&keywords=check+engine+code+reader&qid=1559137785&s=gateway&sprefix=check+engine+%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-13
Or something like it. This will tell you exactly what's wrong with a quick google search. Sometimes it's just "the gas cap is old and loose." As someone who kept a 97 tercel alive way longer than it should have I really feel your post. Good luck friend!!
What year is your Jeep? As long as it’s 96 or newer you can use a generic OBD2 reader like this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725Q6X7B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3rn1CbVBWPM0R
Do you have an OBD II reader?
Here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC/
As far as uploading to a private cloud, that would be a bit more difficult. You could probably set up a server to forward the data to a private cloud, but it'd still be on their servers first.
__
To DIY a solution, you're talking about a bluetooth dongle with some sort of cellular-activated IOT device, AND a GPS puck/receiver, plus the private cloud you'd set up separately. Do-able if you're looking for a project, but definitely more expensive both time and money wise than the bought solution (the GPS alone is ~$50, add an OBD dongle and an RPi and you're over-budget already). If you're trying to do pre-96 cars, that's a LOT of custom wiring, due to the lack of OBD2 (and I'd know, because I went through all that to datalog my '94 MX3).
I'd recommend OBD Auto Doctor (onboard diagnostic) for $10. Then get a cheap Bluetooth OBD adapter from Amazon. The one linked below iDiagnose ELM327 is $15.
http://www.windowsphone.com/en-us/store/app/obd-auto-doctor/68fcb70d-c259-4e1d-8158-27735854493c
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1O72TW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I made mine into a car computer code reader.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B0C1NE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Great read, heres a $5 cheaper version on Prime of the bluetooth connector
http://amzn.com/B0090ZJPMK
I bought this one and have been very happy. You will need a laptop to use it. It will do all the basic error code checks, but also has the ability to log sensor data, which is nice when you're trying troubleshoot.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ZWM0R4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Fq5GAbV5ZBNZV
Get this cable for $29.99
Get this FREE software called ForScan and install it to a laptop.
It will do everything you need it to. Ford Specific tests as well as ABS, BODY, AIRBAG modules can be read and even programmed.
I like this guy, personally, but I’ve had a trusty CenTech scanner from Harbor Freight for years that gets the job done as well.
Or pick up an EEC-IV reader on amazon for $25. Definitely worth it if he plans on keeping the truck.
while the deal per se is good, I'd advise to purchase a device like this one instead
http://www.amazon.com/iDiagnose%C2%AE-Smallest-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Wireless/dp/B00A1O72TW/
and install on your phone one of the apps that support them... This one comes to mind
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en
From Imgur -
Haters gonna hate.
Seriously this translates to any low-end model car. See what you can do. Just put your mind to it.
Wiring harness disaster.
This was the initial wiring harness done by mysterious previous owner. Electrical tape and twisting is effective, however, very sloppy.
Wiring harness - fixed.
Solder and heatshrink wires into a nice in-line harness. Used conduit and electrical tape to secure the lines into an OEM-like headunit harness.
If it sits, it fits.
Checking whilst removed that the new mount for my headunit is working properly.
Cupholder add-on.
Stock DX doesn't come with a retractable cupholder. I picked up one of these universal dual cup holders at Advance Auto Parts. It's designed to wedge between a seat and a center console. I used a hack saw to trim it down, then used Plumers Goop to fasten it to the trim piece used for the cupholder add-on.
Sitting nice.
It looks like it all came together ok, not - it's time to check and see how it's working.
Sexy.
Sits fine, have to get a USB bluetooth adapter for audio, however it functions just fine like so.
Torque for Android.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque is the software. http://www.amazon.com/Newest-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter/dp/B009F4JHHO/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395625503&sr=1-2&keywords=Bluetooth+ODBII For the hardware.
Hope you enjoyed this! I did this today since I was a bit bored and wanted the car to function with my phone better. Happy modding!
Funny thing is it's usually not the engine. Most of the time I've seen it come on, it's an exhaust problem. It can also be something like a cylinder misfire in the engine but you'd probably notice that before the light came on because it would be running really rough.
Anyway, you can just buy one of these and read if your OBD is throwing any codes. I don't know if this specific one is any good... just the first one that popped on Google. Or you can take it to Autozone and they'll check it for free.
http://www.amazon.com/OBD2-Reader-Diagnostic-OBD-MT-50/dp/B004IV58AY
Why would you bother when a cheap OBD-II scanner costs $16?
(Let's be honest; if you need something beyond the cheap scanner then your problem is more than likely not something you're going to fix in your driveway unless you're a mechanic anyway!)
I've not tested a bunch but this one is only $11 and it works fine. I leave it in the port and it doesn't run the battery down or anything. Then I used Torque for Android to read and clear codes.
I use a $12 bluetooth ODBII reader from ISaddle - https://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Windows/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473984041&sr=8-1&keywords=isaddle+obdii
Paired to DashCommand or Torque. I like the interface of DashCommand much better, but Torque allows for a little more customization.
Tangental information: this sounds a lot like the "Automatic" device, though there are others this info might be useful to you:
Automatic AUT-350C Pro Gold 3G Connected Car Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC
Get one of these + one of many android apps for it, and you can get/read CEL codes. As well as pull up gauges with your own parameters. (Oil temp/volts/what have you)
Here's a picture of my setup.
I don't like to run my AC just the heater, the first thing to prob go will either be a locking mechanism in one of the doors or god forbid your head gasket.
Don't add any weird shit to your coolant, pop the hood every other week and have a look around for any deposits on the block of coolant or anything.
I would also recommend getting one of these bluetooth OBD scanners and use the Dashcommand app with it. So should a light come on your dash you can diagnose it quickly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0090ZJPMK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PZ-mub1NYDN31
These are not iPhone compatible but are on androids. If an ABS issue arises it will have to go to a shop that has the right stuff to diagnose it, not many obd scanners can touch a Rovers ABS computer.
Premium ga$ only! Have fun!
Buy your own code reader for $13 and diagnose the problems yourself.
To add on to this, a cheap and good investment is a basic OBD II reader (eg. https://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY). They are especially useful when the catchall "check engine" light comes on. There should be a port underneath your steering wheel somewhere (it's often easier to see if you sit on the ground with the door open). Plug the reader in, turn the car on, and it will give you the error codes that you can google along with your Make/Model to figure out what's wrong.
If it's something simple then you can easily fix it and even if you take it to a mechanic, you can lead in with "this is broken" and catch them if they try to charge you for hundreds in diagnostics and unnecessary parts.
Also I don't know what area you are in but frequently Auto parts shops such as Auto Zone or Advanced Auto Parts can be a wealth of knowledge; they'll make sure parts you're buying are a match for your car and sometimes will even loan you obscure tools you may need to complete a job.
Edited:
copied from amazon description:
Automatic Pro is an adapter that plugs into almost any car to provide unlimited monitoring with zero fees. Know where your car is at all times, make sure that in the event of an accident that you and your family will be taken care of, and even connect your car to your Echo, your smart thermostat, or any other part of your digital life. This product works only in the US.
https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Connected-Realtime-Diagnostics-Detection/dp/B01JRBQ9PC
I bought this scanner for less than 20 bucks and it works great with forscan
id say go for the lower miles. get a car fax. get under it for awhile (when i buy used im under the truck for an hour or two) just looking. leaks, cracks, rust whatever. bring a flash light and an inspection mirror. i now bring a bore scope. push it down into the frame. cheap on amazon. hooks up to your smart phone.
https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Semi-rigid-Inspection-Waterproof-Adjustable/dp/B00STB0EW6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499134773&sr=8-2&keywords=borescope
power washing can hide alot. cant hide mud and muck in side a box frame, pull wheels off and look at the brakes.
get a cheap obd II scan tool, pc one is what i have. plug it in, read what it says.
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-425801-OBDLink-USB-Professional/dp/B005ZWM0R4/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1499134641&sr=8-25&keywords=obd+2
Read your own codes: https://www.amazon.com/Goliton-Bluetooth-Reader-Compatible-Android/dp/B005C6KIVS
I have this exact same car (97 outback 2.5L) and I've had multiple late 90s subarus over the years, and it can be very annoying to complete the drive cycle or know if the emissions check of the ECU is working as intended or just taking its sweet-ass time doing its checks. As /u/bobbysenterprises mentioned:
> What exactly is considered a drive cycle seems to be protected closed source information.
is fairly accurate. basically you need a combination of low speed driving, stop and go, idling, high speed driving, acceleration, and deceleration. You could probably complete the cycle in an hour or so of just aimless driving, with the intent to try and lot of varied driving.
Here's a tip, invest in an OBD2 code reader that can tell you the system readiness state, I have one of these which can do this (as well as read/clear codes, etc). At least this way you can drive around, check the readiness state, and know if its working or not. Here's a slightly fancier version with a color screen
Get this and an app called torque. It's pretty plug and play
http://www.amazon.com/ERUSUN%C2%AE-Bluetooth-Interface-Scanner-Compatible/dp/B00ARAQHGE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1418393777&sr=8-7&keywords=bluetooth+obd2&pebp=1418393803712
nothing your typical ELM327 mini cant already do, while paired to your non IOS phone with torque pro installed.
verizon prices: 75$ plus mobile data fees involved...
ELM327 price: 7-15 dollars on ebay
torque pro app price: 5$ on google play store
This has wifi for ur pc and phone, just needs to charge, but your car has usb ports.
I love the torque paid app. I think its with the $5. I got the PLX bluetooth off amazon. I don't remember it being quite so expensive but it connects quick every time, has a long cable and an on/off switch. You pay for what you get the $5 bluetooth ObdII adapters aren't going to cut it.
Hey bud. That code reader is really, really outdated. It's a very basic one that is ultra economy. It's not going to work for certain cars because who knows why. I recommend an Angel AD410, it's a scanner I use at my shop for quick diag for simple problems, however in your case it will work very well and give you a lot of extra functionality, you can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/ANCEL-AD410-Enhanced-Vehicle-Automotive/dp/B071FSNL73/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=ancel+ad410&qid=1574729264&sprefix=ancel+ad4&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTlFCWUJKM1FUOTBCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzMwNTI1Sk04UjNKVjhISVhVJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyNDk5MTYxOFhNUzdYVllHU1dNJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Also, what code is the light on for? Did you fix the issue?
Looks like you have a few codes
http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/eectest.html
Btw, Equus/Innova makes an EEC reader that does a phenomenal job at reading those codes out
here
> The maestro is only reading what the vehicle is providing so the speed and accuracy is limited by the vehicle manufacturer.
That's bullshit. :/
With something like this you'll see it's a big difference in PIDs/second. Just about any recent car will give you well over 100 PIDs/second. Meanwhile cheapo versions or wireless versions will limit you to 20, or even 10. It's not on the manufacturers, their own equipment has to read this data, if it's not accurate and fast it's either an older car (anything pre-05, most pre-08) or the scanner software/hardware is garbage.
I also have a Bluetooth adapter for Torque.
I wouldn't recommend a Bluetooth one personally, but that's just because I know how bad wireless technology can be sometimes and I wouldn't want to risk my ECU. This is the one I bought for less than $20 that works perfectly with those programs.
I got this OBDLINK MX+ or you can get the somewhat cheaper OBDLINK LX. I would have gotten the LX but I needed the MX+ for my application.
Takes less than 5mins to do. You need an obd2 to usb cable(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N18TOFB?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf), and The Focccus program(http://ford.xtlt.ru/FoCCCus/).
Don't waste your money on an Amigo! It only has that one function. For less than the price of an Amigo you can get this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091DJWV0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A lot of us Rover guys has have bought it, it'll do OBD2 plus ABS & SRS for the Rovers.
I've used a few OBD-II interfaces, one serial, two USB, and my current fav is bluetooth. I got it off Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1O72TW/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They all create serial devices in Windows and Linux and the bluetooth one is physically isolated from your computer so you can't do anything to power surge the car computer.
I use the following with Torque Pro (android) via bluetooth. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLZCVGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$10 OBD2 Bluetooth module and then using the $5 android app torque and then setting torque to upload data to my web server using this
next level shit, yo
Too funny you just posted this question. I researched this exact question today and bought an OBD2 about the time you were posting this. This reddit thread convinced me to go with the BAFX product for $27 for a quality wifi scanner. The LeLink\^2 one was my second choice based off of Leaf drivers' recommendations but the selling point there was leaving it plugged in, which I don't plan to do. I just want to reversibly disable the VSP sounds.
Try Dashcommand Torque is really ugly and jittery. Dashcommand has some fantastic skins available, i personally use the Lexus LFA gauge skin
also if you want to have the obd2 sensor installed permanently go for the PLX kiwi. higher sample rate, wired connection so it doesn't hang under your dash, and an on/off switch so it can be left plugged in without draining the car's battery.
its $100 right now, but i got mine for $65 last fall
Also now that you've switched to Android pick up one of these then install Torque (There's a free version as well).
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW
For BimmerCode to work properly, you need to get a "good" BT OBD2 reader. I have the OBDLink MX+ (https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=obdlink+mx%2B&qid=1564401419&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1) which is $79.99. However, it's worth it imho as it's super fast when reading values (which is a must when you start adding upgrades to your engine). You *could* go with a cheaper one, but it's a crap shoot if the programming will take or not due to the cheaper ones dropping packets and such. This is very much a "you get what you pay for" situation.
As for what to code, at a minimum I do comfort access close (you push and hold the door handle button or the keyfob lock to have all the windows close automatically), turn off "corrected" speed on the digital and analog speedometers, 3 blinks for turn signals and enable the double-blink style hazard lights. I also tweak all the welcome lights to be "soft on". I don't have the navigation package in my wife's R60, so I don't know what I would do there or what is available in BimmerCode.
Another thing to learn would be the expert codes. You can find a LOT of information over on NAM: https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/3rd-gen-faqs/321561-bimmercode-app.html A lot of the codes there only apply to the 3rd gen Minis, but there are a lot that also apply to the 2nd gens.
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Reader-Diagnostics-Devices/dp/B078K54MT5/ref=sr_1_3?crid=31O5121TTE98A&keywords=ios+obdii+bluetooth&qid=1564146769&s=gateway&sprefix=ios+OBII%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-3
I have that one but for Android and its been able to pull codes off any car I plugged it into. You will have to use an app on your phone as well to have an interface with it. I recommend Torque Pro.
i just bought this one on amazon to get a taste. BAFX Products - WiFi OBD2 / OBDII... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078K54MT5
pretty amazing for less than $20
I bought one of these about 5 years ago and LOVE it.
It comes with free software to load on a laptop.
I've used it for everything from just clearing the CEL for friends to monitoring all data while driving (very cool dashboards with this software).
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-425801-OBDLink-USB-Professional/dp/B005ZWM0R4
You might want to buy one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY
It allows you to view and reset the code yourself. If you keep an eye out they go on sale for $10-$15 sometimes too.
It can be really useful for any lights that come on. If you see yourself fiddling with your own cars in the future and have a bit of disposable income you could get a nice high quality one like this which will do everything you need, or you could get something as simple as this one to take care of most of your needs. Autel is a good brand, I also have a bluetooth one that connects to any app on your phone (or computer) which can also be convenient, and depending on the app can be useful giving you real-time data.
Note that for this issue specifically, you'd need the former one I linked as the airbag system (SRS) and ABS system run on a specialiszed part of the system and can't be read by normal code readers. So if you just figure you won't do much you could get the $15 reader for quick troubleshooting and take it to Autozone like you're doing for when big things come up.
The way it was described to me is this: the smart uses an electronically controlled clutch. In order to determine how far to push the clutch in, the system needs to periodically check the thickness of the clutch plate. It does this by a sensor that sometimes gets drunk. If it misreads the depth, it will put too much or too little force on the plate. If it pushes too hard, the system will go into a safety mode to prevent catastrophic failure. And, by safety mode, I mean it stops working. Even if you are driving.
Normally, the system resets itself every few starts. If it has the odd freak-out, it needs to be done manually.
Get an ODB2 reader. Scanners are super cheap.
ANCEL AD410 Enhanced OBD II Vehicle Code Reader Automotive OBD2 Scanner Auto Check Engine Light Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FSNL73/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SE3hDb80M7JKR
If you were throwing a code your check engine light would be on (unless you or the previous owner disabled it)
I would NOT take my truck into a shop to get it plugged into a scanner, I’m pretty sure they charge like $60 CAD...
I have this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725Q6X7B/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?psc=1
It’s cheap Chinese crap, but for the amount you use it, and unless you’re a mechanic, it’s all you need.
I bought this reader in 2013. It lists "Canada - All Vehicles 1998 & Newer" as compatible. It also says "For Android & Windows ONLY!"
On my phone I use the paid version of the Torque app. Try the linked (free) version first.
Works great for my 2010 Fusion here in the US.
Edit: Looks like they have an iOS reader now as well. No idea what app to use though.
BAFX's Country Compliance List
$80 and a phone/tablet to display the data. It should provide the same data on all gen5 models, mine is 19 Off Road Premium
https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=BRY0BYOGVZ6J&keywords=obdlink+mx%2B&qid=1569284811&s=gateway&sprefix=Obdlink+mx%2B%2Caps%2C187&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySlRIUjZFWUgzMFJPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzU1MTA1M0ZYWDlQQTk2UDdHMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTI2MzM0M1JDWVJSNkJDNDhRWSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I'm using this one. I actually haven't used the generic, so idk if this one is worth the price jump. The description says you can make some changes, so maybe I'm wrong about needing a wired connection/laptop. The wired connection info is from the forscan website. I've only used it to make a custom dash on my double din.
https://www.amazon.com/OHP-Forscan-Adapter-Scanner-Android/dp/B06XJL31Z7/ref=asc_df_B06XJL31Z7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241975700326&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12666598466722619940&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003476&hvtargid=pla-486551692490&psc=1
What about this device?
Automatic AUT-350C Pro Gold 3G Connected Car Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lw65yb4890EAH
Here is the code reader I was looking at.
My suggestion: I have a Bluetooth obd2 reader in my car. There pretty cheap and you can pull check engine light codes.
Something like this iSaddle Super Mini Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Scan Tool Check Engine Ligh... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_XH9xub06NA4KW
What year?
If you are just trying to read or clear codes, This will work. It's cheap and it gives you the code. I have this exact one in my tool box and bring it with me if someone asks me to look at their car. I then use google to search what the code means for the car.
This is the one I have:
Autel MaxiScan MS309 CAN OBD-II Diagnostic Code Scanner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LHQBMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_0ap4wbZ8S2110
(You can probably find it on eBay cheaper)
Get yourself a proper OBD-II scanner, either like this one or this one, that will read the codes properly. Once you have the exact code numbers, if the device won't tell you what the code means, you'll be able to Google it.
I don't know about Canada, but in the US lemon laws only cover new car purchases. Is the car under warranty? Next time the check engine light comes on I would either take it to an independent shop to diagnose the issue or buy one of these. It will let you pull up the code and you can figure out what is causing the problem. It could be something as minor as a sensor going bad, or it could being a serious issue. Try not to stress out too much until you actually know what is going on.
I'd wager to say that the Tesla allows for more control and more configuration, so perhaps i should have said "a customizable on-board computer".
Since the majority of cars today get their "sophisticated" computer translated by a specific piece of hardware that gives feedback in cryptic codes that require translation.
You'll want to start with a code scanner like this: https://www.amazon.com/OBD2-Scanner-Professional-Diagnostic-Effortlessly/dp/B0725Q6X7B/
Also, I believe you can take your cavalier to places like Autozone and they will scan your car and give you the error codes for free. Get any error codes listed from the computer and start fixing what is wrong there, or post them up here and we can help.
There are a couple on amazon I'm thinking about. Would like to keep it under $50.
Deciding between this ANCEL AD310, and this ANCEL AD410. Either one seems to fit my pretty basic needs for a scanner...
I have the android version of this one, reads everything I want to with no issues.
I don't understand. the ones I see on amazon say nothing about iphone or android. what are we talking about here? I have an iphone by the way.
edit: this one for example says it works independently of a computer or phone. Not sure if this is worth it or just some POS I should avoid.
For the SES light, you need a cheap ODBII cable. Connect it, see what the code says, take a picture of it on your phone. Go up and google it on e90 post and see what it could be. Take to AZ to read the code, but get your own on Amazon as you'll need it more. I have this one.. Reads the codes and clears them for me.
Did you buy it from a dealer or private party?
Bimmer Repair Shops, and simply enter your zip. Call around for quotes.
>ntion that there is a light of a half full motor or transmission symbol, which doesn't go away
This is your HPFP, take it to the dealer as this should be covered to 120k miles. This happens to me from time to time, but I'll reboot and it'll be fine for another 6 months, and then it'll come on when I'm driving hard. Just bad timing really. I'd assume it would be free as it's under warranty, and you are at 38k miles. But have them quote you for sure. Warranty Info. There's another that covers you to 80k miles, and may be the turbos. If all else fails, you should notify the dealership where it came from. Worst case, and absolutely worst case - you should get your insurance involved, or just have it towed back and write a letter for money back. But you're not there at all.
Let us know what happens. TL;DR - dealership, talk to the service advisor about the HPFP. I've always heard the HPFP needs to have the SES light on. Have them diagnose for their fee, and decide from there. They should cover everything for you.
ForScan application and an ELM327 adapter. ForScan for PC is free, or costs $5 for your phone.
https://www.amazon.com/OHP-Forscan-Adapter-Scanner-Android/dp/B06XJL31Z7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549954290&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ohp+elm+ms+can&psc=1
I have a Galaxy Note II. I bought one of the cheap ELM327 Bluetooth scan tools. Example. For software I've used both Torque and Dash and they both work great.
This one. I got it for Christmas and I've enjoyed the tech side of it. I think you can download 3rd party apps to use more of the technical things. Technically the chip can read everything about the car and Automatic's app barely shows you any of that. I've never had to use the built in crash monitoring, but it's nice knowing it's there in case I'm unable to call for help.
This one at Amazon or dozens of other choices for $10.99. Requires a free Android app called "Torque". For basic code history reading (and it lets you reset the codes).
So lucky! If your check engine light does come on you should get one of these! http://www.amazon.com/ELM327-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B0090ZJPMK
So handy and can save you tons of money!
what sort of 'fancy scanner'? I have a cheapo bluetooth model, which clears the code alright, but doesn't give me the TPS voltage... here is another one that claims to to GM-LAN and ABS ...and off to another topic I go, sorry, maybe I should repost. ;p https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6
First, you can buy a code reader for your car, they work with your phone and they're cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Reader-Compatible-Android-Torque/dp/B005C6KIVS
It's possible these are all related.
Might be the onboard computer or other electronics then if you think the Fuel Pump is fine. There are electronics in the Relay, though, and it could just be an error with the starting sequence. Do you have one of these by any chance? Might narrow down the issue, might do nothing, might outright tell you what's wrong. Also just good to have on hand, that way if you ever go to a mechanic you can inform him ahead of time that you did an OBDII reading, and tell him the diagnostics it gave. Much less likely to get gouged by expensive tests like engine compression if you come armed.
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW
This is what you need. Remove the EEC-IV diagnostic connector from the fender/wall of the engine bay. It should be plugged into a cover that remains attached to the wall. There may be two separate connectors that are individually connected to the same reader.
$12 Will buy you a Bluetooth OBDII code reader.
Load the Torque app on you phone, connect, scan, pull real time data and clear codes.
I have a standard usb OBD cable but not specialized for tuning. It comes with some gimped software, but has worked with better software previously. If you could use it, you'd be welcome to borrow it.
> OBD2 reader
The one my friend has, and the one I'm going to ask him to read my car with tonight is this: http://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY
If it works out, I'm ordering one immediately.
Can't remember which forum it was, but a few days ago i stumbled upon a post where people where hyping this Autel model scanner that reads most makes, including Rover (obdii/can and ABS) at a really good price. I'm new to my '01 D2 (it's my late father's) and am just trying to diagnose the three amigos.
Everyone in the thread seemed genuinely surprised that such a reader was selling for that price so I went ahead and bought it. Got here yesterday and it's already confirmed a shuttle valve electrical fault.
I'm a novice but I feel like it was a good purchase.
Autel AL619 OBDII/CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091DJWV0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_QFqAwbC8S6GVC
So I've been playing a lot with my 2010 and 2016 Fords, especially involving the camera.
Two different things can be checked, unfortunately both requiring a little computer kmow-how and some parts off Amazon.
Just keeping a quick note, if yours is the same as my 2010, the gear messages should be ID 3B0, with Reverse having a data of 0x01.
If you go with an aftermarket camera, it's entirely possible to make it display on the navigation screen -- any standard composite camera will work.
Good to know about the charge time, I was thinking I would stick around the charger for closer to an hour anyway since my destination has no level 3 chargers nearby.
I found myself in a bit of analysis paralysis in picking an OBD2 dongle that will work with my Bolt. I found myself stressing over stories of dead 12v batteries and error codes.
I was thinking about this green scantool but then I noticed this black scantool mx+ explicitly says " plus advanced Ford & GM vehicle networks (MS-CAN and SW-CAN) ". I kind of got stuck trying to discern the difference and what one I would need.
Better still
Combined with a smartphone/tablet application like Torque and hey presto.
I bought this one for 14.99. It works just fine, scans codes and can clear them.. all I need.
Amazon, $15
its down to $10 now
http://www.amazon.com/ELM327-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B0090ZJPMK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1367946933&sr=8-7&keywords=obd+ii+bluetooth
Mine works great but the quality seems iffy, there are many others on Amazon though that are similar prices. Mine has worked on my WRX, my Wifes Mazda, My friends Jeep and another Friends Ford Explorer. (I have become a go-to for getting CEL codes diagnosed)
then I actually purchased an app $5 called "torque" on the google play market (android). It allows me to read codes, display anything from boost or coolant temp to speed and RPM, and even has built in 0-60 tests and can use the phones accelerometer. You can also do data logging and record videos with the data embedded in the video. It will even do a map overlay using google maps and GPS data.
a few basic things, spark plugs, fuel filter, or a sensor.
take it a a discount autopart or somehting similar, or even better buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-425801-Interface-Diagnostic-Software/dp/B005ZWM0R4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1369345003&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+car+diagnostic and it will tell you if there is a bad sensor.
I ripped out my jump seats. Can't imagine in a million years ever using them. That area holds my tire chains and tool box well.
The 3 amigos can be as easy as greasing the brake pads or as difficult as replacing the wheel speed sensors. I run mine with 3 amigos on. Planning on getting an autel scan tool to clear mine.
As long as the head gaskets were done right. Heads should have been milled or replaced. Water pump, hoses, and fan clutch should have been replaced. Original problem that caused gasket to blow should be diagnosed. Otherwise, you could be redoing that job entirely in a couple months.
Any recent drivetrain work? Fluids exchanged?
This piqued my interest, and I spent a few moments looking for it. For any others following, what you want is "Bluetooth Car Code Reader."
Example: http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Reader-Compatible-Android-Torque/dp/B005C6KIVS
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FSNL73/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this one has live data from the car, $33
This one only reads codes but gives you the definition $18
This just reads codes, nothing else. $15
If they quoted you $3200 its probably a professional scan tool, those can read anything going on in the cars computers and even take control of stuff too. If you just want to see what's causing the check engine light and of the above 3 would work.
this last one is more expensive, but it can read obd2, abs, and air bag codes. Pretty much everything the big $3k unit does.
Here's the best one . There are others which work that are cheap but these are the best
Yeah, it is fairly nice to have, it gives you all of the same information that the tool that the dealer has for your car. Here is the one I have
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and you will need to go to FORSCAN.org to obtain the free software for it. Super easy and the software essentially walks you through itself. You should not need an extended license for what you are doing.
>foremostly a ticking noise coming from the upper part of the block
Just drive it. It's a Rover V8 and there's nothing to be done. If it's a liner you'll find out soon enough. But it's probably just standard valve train noise.
>the SRS light is on.
You can guess, or you can have the truck tell you what is wrong. For that, you need more than a standard OBDII scanner.
This one will do the job.
It also reads ABS codes on D2s. It's a gigantic pain in the ass to update (you need a windows computer, micro SD card reader and several hours of patience) but it works. And it's by far the least expensive reader I've found that can handle SRS and ABS codes on D2s (and most other vehicles for that matter).
>the right side front passenger window sometimes gets stuck
The regulators are garbage. Pull the door card and see how bad it is. Fortunately they are cheap and easy to replace once you've done the first couple.
>when the second I raise the speed above 3, it makes a loud vibrating noise.
There is shit stuck in the squirrel cage fan. Remove it and clean it out. It's below the glove box.
Here is the link to that doc, you will need an OBDII reader. You can always google how to use Forscan and you can do soooo much to your F150!!
​
ForScan Doc:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=815852466
​
OBDII Reader:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
I know that's how you feel, but what would you do if you didn't feel that way?
I'd be interested in helping you, if you're interested in pursuing this (I even have a potential business idea on how I'd use this data). Certain luxury manufacturers also let you use the ODB interface to manage advanced settings that are otherwise unavailable.
I searched GitHub for "ODBLink" (a popular scanner tool) to see what scripts/programs users have wrote, and found a Python program with a reference to a useful spreadsheet for how we could get started:
# Thanks to Brian Batista for the use of the CANBUS guide spreadsheet.So, I searched Google for "canbus spreadsheet", and found this Google Spreadsheet: CANBUS Fleunze SE (top non-ad search result)
Similarly, for Ford Mustang cars, I did some digging and found Ford has opensourced their OpenXC tool:
>OPENXC
>
>While UDS is a closed protocol, researchers at Ford have been working on creating an open platform for interfacing with vehicles. The result is the OpenXC Platform. OpenXC provides a protocol to read data from Ford vehicles over CAN.
>
>To use it, you’ll need a vehicle interface. A chipKIT can be used with Ford’s open source firmware. Alternatively, you can buy a prebuilt solution from CrossChasm. Once the vehicle interface is up and running, you can access data from the Android and Python APIs. We’ve featured a few OpenXC hacks on Hackaday in the past.
>
>It’s great to see an automotive manufacturer embracing open source, and hopefully Ford continues to work on the platform. That being said, the OpenXC protocol is read only, and limited to a fairly small set of messages.
The conventional wisdom on ClubLexus.com is "If you're working on a Lexus or Toyota, nothing can beat Toyota Techstream." However, Carista comes close. Carista focuses on hidden features ("dealer-only settings") like daytime running lights. They provide similar "dealer-only settings" for other makes and models.
I personally use an expensive ODB-II reader, because:
I personally use BlueDriver ODB-II reader, instead of Carista, because:
>What are ENHANCED diagnostics?
>
>All vehicles with an OBD2 port are required to output basic information when the Check Engine Light comes on. However, a lot of important information (such as ABS, Airbag, Climate Control, etc.) is left behind by other scan tools and code readers. [...] BlueDriver gives you the complete set of diagnostics on a wide range of manufacturers.
However, the downside to BlueDriver is:
>Bluetooth pairing is incredibly simple — sometimes too simple for its own good. Without a four-digit PIN to offer a bare minimum of protection, anyone within a 30-foot range could connect to BlueDriver dongle. If the dongle is not currently connected to a phone, the process will be trivial, and even if the dongle is connected, it's sometimes possible to prioritize a new connection over an existing one.
In terms of "fun projects", I was thinking it'd be cool to use ODB-II Mode 6 and visualize, in real-time, Scotty Kilmer's "How to Get Your Car to Pass the Emissions Test (Life Hack)".
Go out and get an OBD-II scanner. Trust me, it's a solid investment that won't set you back much at all. If anything, it's probably the best "bang for your buck" accessory you can get for your XJ. It'll let you read CEL codes, reset them, and you can use the Torque app (which is pretty cool to have for the info).
I bought this one about 3yrs ago, it set me back a whopping $15.
iDiagnose® ELM327 V1.5 Bluetooth OBD2 OBD-II CAN-BUS Auto Diagnostic Scanner Tool Wireless OBD2 Scan Tool CAR Code Reader - ANDROID Compatible
I bought this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1O72TW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage about a year ago and its still going. Its been plugged in ever since I bought it and its smaller then some of the others so it won't get in the way.
This one. been working fine for the last 2 years or so.
that is an important distinction, I meant when I turn the engine on, I have this not sure if it can scan the oil indicator. subaru calls the light "Engine low oil level warning indicator" not sure if that makes a difference.
ODBII reader is what it is called. Here is the one I got from Amazon. Literally only tells you the codes not what they mean, but it has a book with the codes listed. But I always Google the code anyway with the car's make and model. You can spend a fortune on theses depending on what kind of things you want it to do. This one will read the codes, tell you pending codes (things that have happened but not enough to trigger a light) and allow you to clear the codes (never do this unless you are fixing the problem yourself).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I8UJ0V8/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have one. They are pretty neat and handy. I use the Torque app on my Android phone with it. Some really suck, but I bought one that was highly recommended and I've never had a problem. The real time information and custom gauges are pretty sweet too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B0C1NE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00