(Part 3) Best computer networking switches according to redditors
We found 2,837 Reddit comments discussing the best computer networking switches. We ranked the 551 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
So setting up my cluster I purchased 3 Raspberry Pis on amazon, a network switch, and a 6 port usb charger all found below:
To get started with this setup you'll need to flash Raspberrian os to each sd card. You can script this pretty easy if there are multiple systems your deploying and it is honestly a good starting point for batch scripting etc. Depending on your experience with Linux systems, you'll either want the full os for Raspberrian or the Lite. I prefer Lite since it's just command line interface and has faster deployment/setup time.
Once you have your pi's flashed with a linux based os, you'll need to start installing kubectl onto each node and kubeadm onto your master in your cluster. There are several articles such as this one that provide easy to follow setups for raspberry pi k8s clusters.
Once you've gotten your cluster setup, I would try deploying a web api to your cluster and exposing it within your network to learn most of the basics of kubernetes/docker deployments. Most examples online use NodeJs applications as examples. They also usually deploy using docker images as well. Docker and K8s go hand in hand for most of your apps in your cluster. For my setup, the K8s repo had/has a lot of already made scripts and setups for your needs. All of my stuff I used came from their repo or multiple Medium articles.
Here's some useful links for getting started. I'd also check out the r/kubernetes subreddit. Most of the articles are a few years old, but generally the top hits on google for kubernetes raspberry pi are enough to get you going and setup. It took be about 2 months of on off working to get mine up, stable, and secure with RBAC permissions before I moved my own apps into my cluster from GCP kubernetes cluster (Google Cloud Platform). My hassles also came from trying to much at once but that's just my nature:)
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>Araknis Networks® 110 Series Unmanaged+ Gigabit Compact Switch (16 Port) $344.95
BWAHAHAHAHA
Yeah you can get an unmanaged switch for less than 20% of that: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/
Heck, you can get a decent managed switch for half of that: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-JGS516PE-100NAS-Rackmount-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00GG1ACX2/
>Araknis Power Supply for Compact Network Switch - 48V $59.99
So really this is a $405 switch because literally every switch I've ever bought includes the damn power supply.
> Parts and supplies used to complete the project. (RJ45 ends, RJ45 keystones)$50.00
This... actually isn't a bad price. A good crimping tool can run you $25 to $50. A box of connectors is at lest $10 and keystone jacks are probably more.
>Labor $570 for 3 hours
(LAUGHS IN DEBT) What a friggin rip off.
I would rate this as pretty good "competent beginner" stuff. The hardest part is getting the connectors wired correctly. Once you've done that a few times (prepare to make some bad cables) it's actually very easy.
Buy a network switch
I use this one ($99) at work and in a very remote location. It's pretty much plug it & forget it... however it does have a lot of adjustable threshold settings to address your legitimate concern. I also use it to remote power-cycle other dumb-devices which have a habit of getting locked up occasionally.
This topic of discussion feels better suited to /r/sysadmin or /r/DataHoarder but I'll let it slide.
Two separate topics:
With project sizes of 100GB, Wireless Solutions are out of the question.
Focus all of your attention on WIRED LAN solutions.
You need a router, such as the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter 4.
And you need a half-way decent LAN switch such as the Ubiquity US-24
Then you're going to need a NAS appliance.
With a NAS solution, you MUST think in terms of RAID.
One single physical hard disk with everyone's projects on it is a recipe for a data loss nightmare.
You need redundant disks. AND you need a data backup solution.
Redundant disks are NOT a backup solution.
Say that out loud, right now.
Redundant disks are NOT a backup solution.
You need something like Carbonite or BackBlaze to copy all of your work projects up to a cloud storage provider.
There are dozens of different backup solutions out there. Use your Google. Research those service offerings and find one that works for you.
Synology is the most frequently recommended low to mid-range NAS solution.
It's a pretty good product for the money.
You need to identify just how much storage you require.
Let's say you have 12 x Projects being worked on right now, and each project is 200GB of data. That's 2.4TB of storage.
But you also want the past 50 projects available in the NAS. 50 x 200GB is 10TB.
So, you need something in the 15TB of storage range, WITH REDUNDANCY.
Western Digital Red drives are designed for use in NAS appliances (24x7 continuous operation in RAID arrays).
https://www.wdc.com/products/business-internal-storage/wd-red-pro.html
The more physical disks you use, the faster your I/O operations can be, since the workload will be spread across the physical drives.
So we need to find the right balance of cost v/s performance.
This Synology unit for example supports 8 physical disks.
8 x 6TB = 48TB minus 12TB for parity data to create redundancy == 36TB of usable space.
https://www.synology.com/en-us/products/DS1817+
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If you have further questions about the LAN solution, we can discuss it here.
If you have further questions about the Synology or a similar storage solution, please start a new thread in a more appropriate community for assistance.
We prefer to keep /r/networking focused on networking discussions.
>Has anybody have any experience with this?
Yes
>How does gain compensation fit into the workflow, and how does it work?
>Lastly, is there a way to make this redundant with out the use of switches?
Nope. But I'd rank redundant power supplies on the consoles and everything on UPSes higher on my priority list than redundant data cabling, if that matters to you.
We use redundant Cisco SG300-10 switches and CyberPower OR700 UPSes. Both have worked really really well for us in the last year.
>I am hoping to be able to daisy chain the consoles and stage boxes in a loop. Does this work?
Yes, that works. You don't complete the loop though; Dante does not support redundancy via ring topology, only star topology.
Take one of these and connect it to one of these and power the fan off of the PoE ports. Also, the fan I linked is a blower fan and would match nicely up against the side of the vent holes.
Seconded. What they are doing is totally egregious.
You could run fiber never mind Ethernet for what they are quoting you.
Here's a kit list of what I would buy if I was treating myself to a fancy home setup directly related to their list.
ABR4500 / Netgear AC1750 @ $110
OR
Replace the ABR4500 & XWS2510 with
Netgear Orbi AC Mesh system, currently $344.99 on Amazon.
At this point you may as well stick with the same brand so to replace the AGS1016 go for;
Netgear 16 port Gigabit POE managed switch, currently $159.99 on Amazon.
Replace AGS1008M with;
Netgear 8 port Gigabit POE Managed switch, currently $79.99.
Total cost = $584.97 vs $2229.92
You could upgrade all of that hardware to Ubiquiti for Small business grade hardware. Based on what you've said I'd find a local small business networking supplier and have them quote you a cost for the above inc installation and support. Their time should be the most expensive item on the list NOT the hardware.
Good luck!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-GS308-100UKS-Gigabit-Ethernet-Wallmount/dp/B00AWM7PKO/
Really, it's hard to go wrong with unmanaged, non-PoE gigabit switches.
Your budget is looooooowww.
That said, what do you need. Router, switch, and WAPs?
Ubiquiti can handle the wireless side of the network very well.
Trendnet has some very reasonably priced switches.
Asus makes some really great home all in one routers. But it might not be the best option for your set up. Maybe a Ubiquiti EL, but I'm not sure you'd be able to configure the thing. We need more information from you.
How big of a load will it be disconnecting?
I have used this thing before to automatically power cycle a modem and router when the internet went down at a remote site. It's not quite a smart plug, but it has configurable timers and triggers and can be controlled via the internet.
https://www.amazon.com/3Gstore-Remote-Power-IP-Switch/dp/B00LLVQ9OI/
12V PoE power tap, $20
When buying these things, pay close attention to whether it's a real IEEE 802.3af/at device, or a ghetto not-IEEE power injector/tap (most discrete injectors/taps are not IEEE).
They were really expensive a few years ago but prices are slowly coming down.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ES-16-XG-Edge-Switch/dp/B01K2Y1HP0
12 SFP+ ports that do 10G over shorter cables
4 RJ-45 ports for 10G over longer cables
$510
Amazon also has the same price for Prime members -
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-Desktop/dp/B002HH0W5W/
Good switches, I've got a few of the older metal ones around my house.
For the remote connection into your network, I would look at something like PiVPN, which leverages OpenVPN for running on a raspberry pi. You're not going to get gangbusters performance out of it, but it will get you inside the network. You'll need to forward ports from your router to whatever is running the VPN software, but there's install guides that can tell you where.
The thing with "router" versus switch is, all the routers you're used to ARE switches, they just also do NAT. That will be your main advantage to using an actual switch over a home router; with a switch, it just... multiplies the number of ports connected to the powerline adapter. It functionally is like adding more ports to your router, albeit at the other end of the powerline link. If you were to use a router, you'd need to get ANOTHER VPN connection to get through THAT router to get to your lab, and that is begging for nightmares. I'm not even really sure it's possible, to be honest.
Note, do NOT connect both powerline adapter ports to the switch. Whatever switch you get may not have loop protection; if it doesn't and some bit of software starts spamming away broadcasting to find out what's on the network, it will completely cripple the entire network from the broadcasts looping back through the switch. (It's called a broadcast storm, and it makes blinky lights on switches stop being blinky. That's bad. Awesome to see on a 48-port switch, but still really bad.)
As for a cheap switch, you only need an unmanaged one at this point just to get you extra ports; in which case I'd probably say go with the Netgear GS308. 8 gigabit ports, no frills or fuss, and just a hair under £20. You could also go with the GS108, but I doubt you'd find anything worth the extra £8 out of it.
If everything else connected to your home internet is solid, and it's just the Wii U that's being derpy, an ethernet switch with a wired Wii U adapter would be a cheap, bulletproof solution as /u/XAZSplatoon has said.
I'm partial to [Netgear equipment](http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Ethernet-1000Mbps-GS205/dp/B00KFD0SMC?ie=UTF8&ref=sr_1_5), but anything will work. I prefer gigabit (10/100/1000) switches, just because you can push more data around your local network and they're really not much more expensive than 10/100 ("Fast") older types.
Here's the network adapter you need for your Wii U. Get the cheap white one that's $11. I haven't had any disconnects from matches since using one. The Wii U installed it automatically. I just plugged it into one of the USB ports on the Wii U, turned on the system, and then went to Connections and chose Wired Connection. It's been rock solid.
Get a 5-pack of Cat6 cables. (I'd go minimum 5-ft; you always want to have plenty of length.) Now, you have plenty of cables to run into and out of that switch.
There. For like $45, you just vastly improved your network at home. You can sell it as that to your dad. Offer to pay for some, all, or at least the Wii U adapter yourself to sweeten the deal. Also, all the stuff I just linked is top quality for a great price, so it will be great to use for all sorts of things network-related in the house or anywhere pretty much indefinitely. You and your dad will probably find ways to use all the ports on that switch pretty quickly.
Again, this will solve it if everything but the Wii U is generally solid, connectionwise. If the connection to other things is squirrelly, we can go further and talk about routers and such, but it sounds like this will be sufficient.
For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in
https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Systems-SmartPro-Stackable-DGS-1510-28X/dp/B00MCZNW5G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484250231&sr=8-4&keywords=10g+switch
and make it:
https://amzn.com/B00MCZNW5G
Or via smile link:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MCZNW5G
BEEP BOP
Plz send any recommendations via PM
I set up a 10 Gbps backbone for my home network this year, with 3 10 gig devices connected to it. FreeNAS server, unRAID server, and one Windows desktop. I don't use pfsense, so you should double-check that pfsense includes drivers for the cards you pick, or you could be in for some pain.
While you can achieve 10 Gbps over quality copper network cables, I went with fiber optic. Fiber optic networking has been around for a long time in many forms, so there are a lot of standards. There are two main types of cable. Multi mode and single mode. This cable type must match the fiber optic transceivers you use on each end. Then there are different qualities of cable. OS1, OS2 for single mode, and OM1, OM2, OM3, OM4 for multi mode. Higher numbers indicate better cable quality. Read up on the limitations of each. Finally there are a bunch of different connector types. LC is the most common from what I have seen. There are actually two kinds of LC, and one of them has an angled end, but those are a lot less common than ends that are cut off at 90 degrees. I'm not really clear on why two kinds exist.
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ANYWAY these are what I bought and they all work fine together:
8x transceiver: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Finisar-FTLX8571D3BNL-10GB-SFP-SR-850nm-Transceiver/173943155751?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
2x NIC card: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mellanox-MHZH29-XTR-ConnectX-2-VPI-Standard-Profile-Network-Adapter/333292618107?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
1x NIC card: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MHZH29-XTR-MELLANOX-CONNECTX-2-VPI-DUAL-PORT-NETWORK-ADAPTER-CARD/223585259766?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
1x switch: http://amzn.com/B0723DT6MN
1x switch: http://amzn.com/B07LFKGP1L
1x long armored cable (Multimode, LC-LC duplex, OM3): http://amzn.com/B07JHKKCVY
Plus a bunch of different length patch cords (Multimode, LC-LC duplex, OM3) from fs.com
​
I specifically chose new Mikrotik switches as opposed to buying older used enterprise switches because the price difference isn't that great, and the Mikrotik switches are fanless.
Saved a boatload of money buying used NICs, and also quite a bit buying used fiber optic transceivers. New 10 GBE transceivers can easily run $20+ each, and new NICs can easily be $100+ USD each.
​
Total cost was still a few hundred USD, but that is a LOT lower than it could have been!
Wenn ich es richtig verstehe müsste ein einfacher Switch doch reichen?
Ich weiß gerade nicht ob man eine Fritzbox zum Switch umfunktionieren kann...
Erste Google-Suche und günstiger Switch.
Suchergebnis zwecks Fritzbox(7490) als Switch
Hmm, didn't think of that. I do have a newer (to me) switch on the network ... this one
D-Link 8 Port Gigabit Unmanaged Metal Desktop Switch (DGS-108)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BCC0LO
Thanks for the tip on the Wireshark filter .. looking into it
Ok, first off thanks for the model number! So many folks leave that off. So your router/switch can kick out 1000mbps over Ethernet, so a switch to match would be ideal. You don't need a managed one so you’re looking at some real cheap, but great options. Here are two good options.
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https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged-1000Mbps/dp/B00KFD0SMC
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_img_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ENKY6TYY6ZCQ2A6Z0S4M
Verizon has Enterprise grade Network Extenders for 4G LTE Only. Verizon also has smaller home sized network extenders. We have both deployed on site.
The good news:
There are a few issues and limitations:
Here is everything you need:
If you are looking for a Verizon solution then the Network Extenders are a great alternative to a full blown high power amplifier and antenna repeater solution.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y3CTEG2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you go wired instead of wireless you could use a network tap. You will see other traffic (ARP, etc.) but I don't think there's a way to solve this regardless of the solution, not from the hardware side. It is easy enough to filter out in Wireshark though.
https://www.amazon.com/midBit-Technologies-LLC-100-1000/dp/B0175EODCE/
Or much cheaper, but not bi-directional unless you reassemble the streams:
https://hakshop.com/products/throwing-star-lan-tap
Or some USB NICs and use computer.
Wireshark works on Windows and even has a pretty GUI. It can save packet captures in a tcpdump-compatible format (among others). It even has a portable version if you don't want to install programs.
Aside from Wireshark, you can mirror a port in your switch, or if you can't do that, get a hardware network tap (like this) and then run Wireshark/tcpdump/whatever on a laptop connected to the tap port.
>Should I install Cygwin on my DC?
No.
€242 with free shipping for europe
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01CHP5IAC/ref=asc_df_B01CHP5IAC45406041
Much cheaper than last time I checked.
I've made the decision to go with the singular large central switch, but now I'm curious would switches such as these recommended by a coworker actually bottleneck my network? It says 10 Gbps switching capacity. Is that the same as uplink speed? I only get 60 Mbps from my ISP and I don't see that changing anytime soon. Would it be more obvious if I was doing FTP within my network?
You can get these little D-Link 8 port switches for $30. I have a couple and haven't needed to touch them since I put them in.
That advise is wrong. You want a switch not a hub. Here is a decent one for a decent price.
I like to use a switch for this purpose. Just find the cheapest switch from a reputable brand that has the interfaces you need.
Here's my choice for SFP
Here's my choice for SFP+ - Notice you can find these MUCH cheaper through a VAR that's a Juniper partner.
But I've had pretty good luck with these. Have a couple running legacy stuff, and they've worked forever.
>1) There isn't any power in the hub, but there is one on the opposing wall in the closet it's located in. Does PoE offer any advantages that makes buying an infuser better than running a power wire?
Nah no difference it's just convenience.
>2) Am I going to suffer any network issues by running a security system after the switch? I'm not sure about the network sensitivity of the security system (it has cellphone and battery backup). I just don't want the switch to have a continuous connectivity "hickup" and set off my alarm randomly.
Shouldn't be an issue if it's made by a reputable company.
>3) What do you recommend for a switch?
A Cisco SG300-10 non-POE
Yes they are. Here is the data sheet. I got my SG-300 10 Port Gig switch on Amazon for $164 new I believe.
http://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/products/collateral/switches/small-business-smart-switches/data_sheet_c78-610061.html
Edit: They are $133 on Amazon now:
http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SG300-10-10-port-Gigabit-SRW2008-K9-NA/dp/B0041ORN6U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454007679&sr=8-1&keywords=cisco+sg-300
You need a switch.
Connect the switch to the router and all your PCs/laptops to the switch. No additional setup required.
I agree with getting a gigabit one (it used to be a premium option, but these days it's so cheap to get so you might as well spend an extra pound or two). That said, that particular netgear is kind of costly for what you get. You could just as well get this 8 port gigabit netgear for 21 GBP or this 8 port gigabit TP-Link model for 22 (18 if you get the plastic version).
There is a 16 port Netgear "Managed Plus" with POE going for ~45% off that supports 802.3af and up to 15 watts/port that I was tempted by (but out of my personal blow money limit for the month), and a TP-Link 8 Port w/ 4 POE Unmanaged that is going on sale at 10:45 that I am very tempted by due to the plans to upgrade the network to Ubiquiti AC Pros.
Of course, the $59.93 price is only like $10 more than the 5 port w/ 4 POE switches are regularly...
A switch is exactly what you're looking for. I think something like this would be perfect: https://www.amazon.com.au/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Unmanaged-GS205-100AUS/dp/B00KFD0SMC/
So you want to add more wifi to solve your too much wifi problem? And no, your cable company is extremely unlikely to sell you a second cable internet package for the same address. That would be required to have a second modem complete a handshake with them.
Spectrum is a limited resource. A second SSID in an otherwise uncluttered wireless space will add more bandwidth, but only if you are using sufficiently modern technology (some N, all AC, disable G and B mode.). You could do this by putting a second wireless router in bridge mode hooked up to your existing router. I do not recommend doing this, but do disable G and B mode if you can. It will help you regardless.
I suggest an alternate solution: Ethernet. Sounds like you have a bunch of TVs with ~3 wireless devices hooked to them each (TV, Game Console, DirecTV Box Of Magic). You can buy a small ethernet switch and some cheap, short, ethernet cables (<$1/foot MAX), and either a wireless bridge or powerline adapters. Plug everything you can into the switch, disable the wireless in the devices, and then join only the wireless bridge to your network.
This will hopefully remove 2+ wireless devices per TV, the imac, and printer. Sadly the chromecast and amazon fire sticks don't have ethernet available. I didn't know people owned echo's.
> Is there are combination Router/Firewall/Content filtering device that is available instead of 2 separate devices that we can use.
pfSense could do that. /r/pfsense or www.pfsense.org. You'd want the SquidGuard package plugin for the filtering. For 15mbps Internet the SG-2220 is all you need ($300). Full OpenVPN support is built into pfSense including site-to-site and remote access. Firmware updates are free forever, goodbye SmartNet. And it's open source-- keep a backup of your firewall config, then if your firewall dies just load pfSense on a PC with two NICs and restore the backup. Instant temporary firewall until a replacement arrives.
Switch- try a Netgear GS728TP. 24 ports + 4x SFP, first 8 ports are PoE+, and it's half the price of the Cisco.
Undoubtedly like 20 people are going to come and yell at me for this and tell me that Netgear is garbage and blah blah blah, but I've used many of these models both at my company and other projects and not one problem anywhere. Plus it has a lifetime warranty.
But if you don't like Netgear, try the Ubiquiti EdgeSwitch ES-24-250W. Slightly higher power budget than the Netgear, slightly cheaper too. I haven't used any of them though, although most of Ubiquiti's other stuff is pretty solid.
If I was building your network, I'd be doing it as above. The whole thing would be done for about $750 in hardware and it would work just as well as your expensive Cisco solution.
I've been meaning to setup the ER-Lite as my VPN server or similar for a while now. A project for a rainy day. For the time being, it just hangs out on DHCP without any real use. Even have a PoE adapter to supply it power xD
How about this?
Fanless, 4 x SFP+, 1U rack mountable, low power. I have one and couldnt be happier. $270 is a steal brand new from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-JetStream-24-Port-Ethernet-T1700G-28TQ/dp/B01CHP5IAC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503383927&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=t1700g-28tq
The LB6M (used) is a popular switch that does 10Gb SFP+ without breaking the bank. One of the things to watch out for with this switch is that it is considered to be quite loud and power hungry.
For 4 SFP+ and 48x 1Gb ports, the Netgear GS752TXS (used) is an interesting option. These can be found for ~200$ on Ebay.
Another option is the Ubiquiti ES‑16‑XG (new), providing you with 12 SFP+ and 4 RJ45. This switch goes for $511.99 on Amazon.
I'm with u/Ghan_04 once I expand my homelab with more servers I plan to pick up one of the two below. Mine will be for a dedicated storage network. Nothing else in the house needs 10gig.
MikroTik CRS305-1G-4S+in Switch 1x Gigabit Ethernet Port and 4X SFP+ 10Gbps Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFKGP1L/
Or
MikroTik 9-Port Desktop Switch, 1 Gigabit Ethernet Port, 8 SFP+ 10Gbps Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NFXN4SS/
This is probably the cheapest "real" 10Gb switch available right now:
MikroTik 5-Port Desktop Switch, 1 Gigabit Ethernet Port, 4 SFP+ 10Gbps Ports (CRS305-1G-4S+IN) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFKGP1L/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_h2Q3Db2HZV929
Add some $30 Mellanox cards off eBay and a couple of DAC cables from fs.com and you're in business for about $250
Mikrotik now has a full line of fairly affordable 10gbps SFP+ switches now.
4x10g + 1x1g:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LFKGP1L
8x10g + 1x1g:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NFXN4SS
16x10g + 2x1g:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747TC9DB
Fiber on fs.com is SUPER cheap, cheaper than CAT6 and OP
https://www.fs.com/products/40228.html 15m (~49' 3") for $5.90 (OS2 1350nm for single mode)
No free shipping but if you order all your transceivers and cable shipping is only $7 and pretty cheap overall. Single mode (OS2 1350nm) transceivers are about $20. You can go multimode (OM3 850nm) for slightly cheaper, ~$13-15, still good to 300 meters at 10G, fiber is pretty much the same cost, which is stupid cheap and makes most copper xBaseT look like Monster Cable nonsense.
I have the 4+1 switch, three multimode and one single mode running a NAS, two PCs, and an old Proliant server. All runs great, hit up to 700MB/s off my NAS cache drive to my main PC's NVMe drive. Even non-cached read is 160-170MB/s--the native speed of my underlying RAID/HDDs, or about 80% faster than I'd get over my old copper 1gbps network. 1gbps is choking 5400rpm HDDs.
I'm going to upgrade to the 16 port once I buy my new rack...
I haven't played with it yet, but I got a Mikrotik CRS305-1G-4S+IN. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LFKGP1L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cheapest >2 port SFP+ switch I've seen.
And yeah, UBNT is great, but the cheapest switch they have with SFP+ is 500 bucks. Which is an awesome switch, but total overkill for most applications.
If you're playing media locally, you should not need a transcoding intensive machine. But if you are streaming to a device you will need a good machine for transcoding. What is a "good machine" for transcoding. The most important spec is the processor aka CPU, but RAM and any size SSD will help add well. Lots of other good recommendations here in place of Pi for transcoding. Good luck.
I'm setting up mine on Monday!!!EDIT: I'm setting up my PLEX Server on Monday, which is a 2012 Mac Mini i7 Quad Core 2.3ghz 16RAM 500SSD and Media is on a Drobo 5N hardwired through a Cat5 Switch. So excited!What 24 Port Switch would you recommend? Just browsing I see this Netgear Switch (GS324) - $68 and this Netgear Switch (JGS524NA) -$119 and I'm not sure if I would benefit from the more expensive model being stuck with Charter and 60Mbps. Also after looking into it I think if I get cameras setup I will just get a NVR with POE vs getting POE right now.
Note the one you linked is not a prosafe, not sure on its warranty. The prosafe 24 is a bit more expensive: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Lifetime-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B0002CWPW2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504122432&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=netgear%2Bprosafe%2Bgigabit&amp;th=1
The default seller is not Amazon, would probably recommend getting it from Amazon and then register it with Netgear with a copy of the invoice/receipt.
Hah, that's cool. I'd be tempted to build a plex box but because I support and install a lot of synology it makes more sense to put one of those in at home.
Talk to your local friends and see if you can find a vaguely trustworthy computer shop. You should be able to rough-in all of the lines and have them terminate and configure if you don't feel up to it.
Just run Cat6, it's great for gigabit, fine for 10gig-e up to ~50m and anyway the vast majority of stuff > 1gbit is on fiber right now. If you think you'll want to run more later just include a string to fish with when you pull your current cable.
Running network is actually pretty easy, you usually punch down on either side of a long run and use patch cables for everything else. Punch blocks have the layout printed right on them so you don't even need to look up a spec.
Parts you need
I like Monoprice for a lot of stuff but not everything.
Tools you need
No, it will not work as you intend. You need a small network switch, connect the switch to the wall line, and the PS4 and PC to the other ports on the switch.
This is an affordable option that should suit your needs, you may need to pick up additional cat5e patch cables of appropriate length. Make sure you have room on a power strip or UPS for the switch's power adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-Desktop/dp/B002HH0W5W/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509574090&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=gigabit+switch
Also, please use /r/HomeNetworking for home network assistance.
5 port gigabit switch for $15
Cisco SG300-10 10-port Gigabit Managed Switch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041ORN6U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
But that shouldn't affect what the WAN port negotiates from the modem, right?
I like trendnet, never had any problems and pretty cheap.
16-Port ($88.69): http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-16-Port-Gigabit-GREENnet-TEG-S16DG/dp/B0044GJ516/ref=pd_sim_e_3
24-Port ($102.25): http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-GREENnet-Auto-MDIX-TEG-S24Dg/dp/B0044GH27U/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8
>only box I can find is the breaker box and none of the switches say anything about the ports
I don't think you're understanding the use of the term 'switch' in his comment.
Typically if you have ethernet ports in your home the cabling in the back of the wall panels will run through the walls and terminate in a patch panel somewhere. From the patch panel there should be short cables that run into a network switch. It's that network switch that then connects into your internet service... this way all the ports around the house can have access to the internet.
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If the previous owner/tenant has taken their network switch with them when they moved out you'll need to replace it with a new one.
trendnet makes some cheap stuff.
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-16-Port-Unmanaged-GREENnet-TEG-S16DG/dp/B0044GJ516
I'll preface this by saying i'm still very basic to networking so someone correct me if i'm wrong please.
It sounds like you're in need of a switch (unmanaged if you want to plug it in and not configure anything). Here are a couple I found with a quick google search (I have no opinion on either of these, they were just the first thing that came up with a google search.
Rackmount: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Rackmount-TL-SG1016/dp/B002HAJQGA
Desktop: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-16-Port-Unmanaged-GREENnet-TEG-S16DG/dp/B0044GJ516
I believe the setup for this would be the run from the router coming into the closet, plugged into maybe port 16 of the switch, then ports 1 through 12 are plugged into the front of the patch panel, and the cable runs to each room are punched into the back of the patch panel.
Again, i'm still basically brand new at this, so please someone tell me if this is wrong.
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-16-Port-Unmanaged-GREENnet-TEG-S16DG/dp/B0044GJ516
I use this switch and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044GJ516/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage
edit: this was supposed to be a reply to the switch recommendation.
Hi,
This is easy! There are multiple ways to do this. I would recommend buying an Ethernet Switch. This one is really cheap and supports upto 1000 Mbps . How many of these 5 devices will run at the same time? Keep in mind that they all will send data over one cable to one port in your router. For gaming this should not be a problem, as this mostly relies on ping. But if you, per example, would want to stream/download heavy content on 3 of these 5 devices, then the maximum speed of your cable (and your router) might start getting a bit problematic.
Either way. An ethernet switch is the way to go.
One fairly simple way to secure your network would be to buy a managed switch like this one and setting up VLANs to separate your network.
In a nutshell, VLANs are a way to partition your switch into different segments or "Broadcast Domains". It's like breaking your switch up into smaller switches that are not connected to each other.
Why would you want to do this?
By virtually separating your LAN, if an attacker somehow gained access to one of your devices (say the Raspberry Pi), they wouldn't be able to access your WD MyCloud or your Camera because they would be on a completely separate LAN.
Based on your network, I would create at least 6 different VLANs. Something like this:
VLAN 2 - Servers (The WD MyClouds and the Dell Tower)
VLAN 3 - Cameras
VLAN 4 - Wireless LAN
VLAN 5 - LAN (Ethernet connected PCs, Laptops, etc.)
VLAN 6 - IoT devices (The thermostat, sprinkler controller, RPis, etc)
VLAN 7 - Guest / Unsecured Wireless
VLAN 8 - Management
The Management VLAN is used to allow access to management functions of your devices like the switch.
How do the different VLANs talk to each other?
For example, how do your PCs talk to your WD MyCloud if they're on a different VLAN? Through the use of a VLAN-Aware Router!
It looks like your WRT1200AC is supported by DD-WRT and OpenWRT. It also appears that it does support VLANs. The stock Linksys firmware will not support VLANs so you would need to flash it with either OpenWRT or DD-WRT in order to use that functionality.
If you don't like the idea of flashing your WRT1200AC I would recommend replacing it with a VLAN-Capable access point like the Ubiquiti Unifi-AC-Pro (which is not bad looking either). You'll also need a VLAN-Capable Router/Firewall. You can use any Linux box with a decent Gigabit Ethernet NIC (e.g. Intel) for this task, or you can go with a purpose-built router like the Mikrotik RouterBoard hEX which has been tested to route at nearly gigabit speed.
This is a lot of info to process, if you have questions I would be happy to help! :)
You need another PoE injector - that switch isn't powered by PoE, and won't pass it to other devices that are plugged into it. The PoE injector should be between the switch and the camera, so you need 2 injectors for 2 cameras. Or a switch that provides PoE, like https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-JGS516PE-Rackmount-JGS516PE-100NAS/dp/B00GG1ACX2/ (only 8 PoE ports).
How much is cost a factor?
Ubiquiti are decent switches. If you want to use their other Unifi equipment eventually, I would go there. The 24 port is not fanless. The switch comes in two versions, one with and one without PoE. The model number will have a 3rd section with a wattage. Ex: US-24 (non poe) and US-24-250W (PoE). Also, there is a GEN2 version out there now. They haven't made it to Amazon last I checked, but Ubiquiti does sell direct fairly cheaply: https://switch.ui.com/gen2/
I used both Netgear and TP-Link switches at home before changed to Ubiquiti a little while ago. I liked both:
I used to run the baby brother version of this switch years back:
NETGEAR 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Smart Managed Plus Switch (JGS524E) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG1AD9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ckt1DbEQ9F2FS
I had this TPlink switch for years after lightnin took out a few Netgear switches. It worked flawlessly, low power, and fanless.
TP-Link Jetstream 24-Port Gigabit Smart Switch with 4-SFP Slots (T1600G-28TS/TL-SG2424) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016M1QTS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Bqt1DbY76GYP4
There is a newer model of this switch for a few dollars more.
> I used both Netgear and TP-Link switches at home before changed to Ubiquiti a little while ago. I liked both: I used to run the baby brother version of this switch years back: NETGEAR 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Smart Managed Plus Switch (JGS524E) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG1AD9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ckt1DbEQ9F2FS
i have this one in my home lab, i don't know how much power drains but it works fine. It just misses some advanced features (SNMP).
I use this in 24 ports
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG1AD9A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I love it to death and there's a 16 port version.
You all need to get an ethernet switch. Most of you play near your computer or in a place where a computer is and "complain" about there not being any additional connections available. Now "switch" your fucking attitude and get a ethernet switch.
One Switch
Two Switch
Black Switch
White Switch
PS. I hate you all
glad to hear that you've already tested the internet requirement and have ruled it out.
a single cable between 2 machines? unless it is a 'crossover' cable or you have network adapters that can switch to uplink mode, then it should not work.
you can get away with a low cost gigabit switch too... you'd just need a second cat5e (or newer) cable and you're set.
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-1000Mbps/dp/B00KFD0SMC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486091668&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=netgear+5+port+switch+gigabit
that link below will give you a good idea of how to check the LAN connection speed.
https://www.bleepstatic.com/tutorials/windows-task-manager/networking-tab.png
Just to make sure I understand... you're going to have it be modem>erx>1 port of the erx>AC PRO and another port from the erx>1 hardwired pc and that'll be for the entire main house?
(which should be fine as long as the house isn't huge and there aren't people on the complete other side of it)
Then from a 3rd port in the erx>long cat5>switch in the garage>few ports of switch>hard wired pcs and a different port of switch>AC Lite for your wireless beermoney phones?
That should all work and be fine... my only suggestions would be to possibly get an an edgerouter lite instead of the ERX because it can handle ALOT more devices and also supports multiple public IPs should you ever decide to expand your farm. Also instead of the AC Lite... consider an AC PRO for the beermoney garage phones as they will handle 25 wireless devices simultaneously streaming video better than a lite. Although a lite could work so if the $50 difference is a lot for you, you could get away with the lite. As for the switch, if you DON'T need to assign IPs to any of your pcs or the ap in the garage... an unmanaged switch will be fine. I have a few netgear gs205 switches for my home setup and they work great. The 5 port model is 15 bucks and the 8 port is 20. However if you DO need to assign IPs.. you will need a managed switch.. and those can be a bit pricey.. like 100-180 bucks.
EDIT: Also another suggestion would be to put the 2 APs on different channels, especially if there are alot of houses in your surrounding area. You can download a wifi analyzer app on your smartphone and it'll search for the signals in your area and tell you what channels they're on.. you can then set your APs to be on different channels than those so they dont interfere with each other... that will be done through the ubiquiti uniFi management thing that you have to use to set up the APs in the first place. (They come with detailed instructions)
Also i saw you say that having the beermoney phones in the house is ideal but you cant. If you cant for personal reasons then i understand but if its for network reasons you could put them in the house if you'd like! The set up would just be modem>erx>switch>1 port of switch>hardwired pc in main house, 1 port of switch>AC Pro for main house, 1 port of switch>another AC Pro for the 25 beermoney phones (again on different channels), and then 1 port of switch>long cable to your garage>another switch>your laptops and pcs!
What's stopping you from plugging your wife's PC directly into the router? If it's just one cable in the room, then your best option is to use a switch. Cheapest one will do, preferably gigabit.
https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-5-Port-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GO-SW-5G/dp/B008PC1FYK
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B00KFD0SMC
One of those for example.
The kind of bridging you did should technically do the job, but it's the last solution anyone would recommend. Not worth toubleshooting imo.
That sucks. In the past I had a particularly unreliable cam in comparison to the others so what I did was take it off of PoE at the switch and used an injector near the cam paired with this:
https://www.amazon.com/3Gstore-Remote-Power-IP-Switch/dp/B00LLVQ9OI
That would ping the cams address and if the cam wouldn't respond would automatically cycle the power to the injector.
Ideally a new/better modem would resolve this.. however, I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLVQ9OI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If it can't ping the internet, it will power cycle a specific power outlet (where my cable modem is plugged in). Works great.
from a person that deploys netgear's for shoretel...do NOT use them...the web based gui is terrible. You might get away with finding one of the higher end ones with telnet but man...I have had nothing but trouble with them. I'm trying to push to have them replaced with ubiquity switches.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeSwitch-ES-24-250W-24-Ports-Managed/dp/B00LV8Z2V2
This is what I want.
I browsed what a lot of other people said, take my information with a grain of salt, I work in IT and do construction build outs and surveillance and security as an all in one consulting shop, my background is in cisco.
Suggestion 1: Ubiquiti
Suggestion 2: Get a decent router, and put your ISP modem into Bridge mode. I'm a huge fan of mikrotik but it's kind of expensive, or the Ubiquiti version
Suggestion 3: If you're going to hard wire EVERYTHING add a gigabit switch in to the last gigabit port on the router, place anything not critical on that switch, if you're going with cameras and AP's, I suggest a Ubiquiti POE Switch But it's VERY Expensive, I'll detail reasons why it's pretty neat to stay with ubiquiti the whole way, but if that's too expensive you can go with this
Suggestion 4: Pick up a shelf and some velcro and a nice power strip or battery backup to organize all this
Suggestion 5: Unifi AP's
Dual Band AC Lite
in wall ap
cloud management
Suggestion 6: Unifi Cameras
all listed here
Or LTS Cameras, but good luck finding them cheap, I'm a vendor and get them for sub 100$
Why sticking with ubiquiti is neat:
All your equipment (except cameras) will show up in the dashboard, your router, your switch and your ap's will all be visible and manageable from a single location (a web page). Granted, I'm not sure it's worth that 400$ switch, but unless you ABSOLUTELY need POE at the switch, you could go with the less expensive edgeswitch, which I want to say is only 200$
Answer: If you use TRUE Wireless Access Points and routers not repurposed as WAP's then they receive an IP on your lan and work as an interface and only pass traffic from wireless devices to your primary dhcp server/router.
It would work as so
Modem > Router > Switch > Camera
And
Modem > Router > Switch > Wap >> Wireless connection >> Devices.
A switch is just a digital splitter for your network, at the most simplest of explanations. and a WAP is simply a translator from wireless to ethernet.
Are you needing cards in all devices or are any already 10Gb enabled? RJ45 or will SFP+ work too?
I went with a D-Link 1510-28X at my core switch for the 4 10Gb SFP+ that I am using one Broadcom dual 10Gb SFP+ to that and then to 2 QNAP TS-451x for a three device 10Gb network.
Good thing is there is an open box like new on Amazon for $199 versus $360-390 new. I am pretty sure this dropped from $299 in the last few days.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00MCZNW5G/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all
Currently I am running all DAC between the QNAS boxes and the host with one between the QNAS boxes as all devices have 2 ports. So you could do that with cards down to $30-40 for single port as pulls.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-OF-2-MNPA19-XTR-MELLANOX-10GB-ETHERNET-NETWORK-INTERFACE-CARD/282092353923?epid=1604121398&amp;hash=item41ae03b983:g:MzkAAOSwX3FaDIR7
I have used Cisco 10Gb Tek DAC cables so far and had good luck. So you are looking at a little over your $300 range with 4 cards $31x2, switch $200, and 4 DAC cables $17 a piece for $329.99, but you will have a good 24 port switch with under 18W power usage and a single fan.
Just make sure the cards support your OS/hardware. I paid $55 for pulled card for an HP that supported ESXi 5.5+
Alternatively use a physical KVM switch or just a simple USB switch.
KVM switch would be an option. You'll have to toggle A/B when you want the headset on the PC, or the PS4.
IOGEAR 3.0/4 Port Peripheral Sharing Switch (GUS432) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3CTEG2/
Unless your intent was to have audio from both mixed into the headset at once.
What I do on my ultrawide is my work laptop gets the hdmi port and PC gets the display port and I switch inputs on the monitor. For keyboard and mouse I use this IOGEAR 3.0/4 Port Peripheral Sharing Switch (GUS432) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3CTEG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bFtQAbHVPXP2P
It comes with a button that I mounted under my desk to switch on the fly
Stuff to think about:
Enterprise quality taps are expensive, but pocket-sized managed switches with mirror functions are cheap.
This thing is pretty much the same as that little switch, but with no UI to configure behavior.
https://www.amazon.com/midBit-Technologies-LLC-100-1000/dp/B0175EODCE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sharktap&qid=1557855694&s=gateway&sr=8-3
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Lifetime-Protection-GS105Ev2/dp/B00HGLVZLY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=managed+switch&qid=1557857433&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Not, strictly speaking, true. e.g.: https://smile.amazon.com/midBit-Technologies-LLC-100-1000/dp/B0175EODCE
I love these: https://www.amazon.com/midBit-Technologies-LLC-100-1000/dp/B0175EODCE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521726003&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sharktap
... but I've seen where I need 4 or more captures and only have one or 2 of those available... I've used 10M hubs only a few times but those times were lifesavers.
WT-GAF-12v12w 802.3af Gigabit Poe Splitter with 12 Volts Output. Power Over Ethernet for Non-poe Devices Like IP Cameras to 328 Ft for PoE Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017J8WJ5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_DudR4gDFAUgyV
Bought that to turn a 12v noctura fan I have in the window on an off based on a temperature reading and a script the would shut/no shut the port... I cut the top off the adapter and spliced the power lines.
Edit: Looks like you need 12v@2a. Find an adapter that does specifically that and wire it up however you want.
Don’t send that high an amperage directly over your cables. IMO if your doubling up wires the risk is low, but it’s not worth it if something goes wrong and keeps sending current or some other weird event happens.
Instead, use a POE switch and something on the other end like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017J8WJ5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2YJACbRKGF3BE
They work great and can be modified to power all sorts of neat stuff!
depends how smart you're wanting.
saw some people posting this little guy : https://konnected.io/
fully "smart" replacement for a standard alarm panel.
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for regular burglar alarm, you can't go wrong with a honeywell vista20 : https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Vista-6160RF-Keypad-Package/dp/B00RELWDGC/
i did residential alarms for years, and used both vista and DSC equipment. they're both fine, and well made.
however, from my experience there's more accessories for the vista line, and the programming for DSC is much less intuitive.
getting an alpha keypad for your system will significantly ease programming, either way.
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you can always get a POE to 12v balun to run a "regular" doorbell cam that needs 12v power instead of POE.
https://www.amazon.com/WT-GAF-12v12w-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Switches/dp/B017J8WJ5E/
do they need 12v?
Power over ethernet. I've got an edgerouter poe-5. Works super great, was a blast to tinker with and tune. But over time I ended up getting a poe splitter to power my cable modem. A poe powered switch. One of ubiquity's long range antennas (powered by the router of course) to share internet and movie library with my parents a few blocks over. And a camera. And from ALL of those, just one wall wart for the router itself. The UPS likes it as well.
Now mind you, I never set out to become a POE addict. I just wanted a nice, powerful router but didn't feel like building a pfsense box for it. I ended up getting the powerful router but it had features for me to grow into that I didn't even know I needed when I bought it.
'That pretty much sums up my ubiquiti experience.
But I'm still kinda pissed that their management software is split between cloud keys for unifi stuff and UNMS for edge stuff.
Amazon has 'em, for USD$300 - See https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-JetStream-24-Port-Ethernet-T1700G-28TQ/dp/B01CHP5IAC/ref=sr_1_1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01CHP5IAC/ref=olp_twister_child?ie=UTF8&amp;mv_size_name=0&amp;mv_style_name=2&amp;qid=1493487016&amp;sr=1-1
Strike that, $299 with Prime free shipping.
For $1200 you would be better off getting another 10G fibre switch and switching it off. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ES-16-XG-Edge-Switch/dp/B01K2Y1HP0
10GBASE-T stuff isn't even moderately cheap, even used. You can get some pretty cheap SFP+ stuff on eBay, but not if you want Cisco. What's your budget and do you have to have Cisco gear? If so, look at the switch I linked in my first comment.
edit: Right, $1,000 is a lot different than $10,000, but you said 16-24 ports. The switch I linked is only 12 ports at $1500. Once you get to the 24 port and then the Nexus series you're easily spending 3-6k.
&nbsp;
If you're willing to consider other brands, check out the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ES-16-XG-Edge-Switch/dp/B01K2Y1HP0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492915616&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=sfp%2B+switch
Power Hungry gig switch with 2 SFP+ 10G ports: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quanta-LB4M-10GB-Uplink-Gigabit-Ethernet-Switch-Single-Power-Supply-w-Warranty-/381876925482?hash=item58e9a3742a:g:6O0AAOSwCU1Y3q7W
Another power hungry, loud 24 Port SFP+ 10G Switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delta-Broadcom-10GbE-24-Port-SFP-4x1GbE-L3-Switch-ET-DT7040-Quanta-LB6M-Class-/152020333438?hash=item23651e337e:g:3woAAOSwTM5Y0FGv
If you want to stay in the same ecosystem, here’s my recommendation for Ubiquity. You may need more than 1 AP depending on the layout of the house, walls and placement.
Modem: ARRIS SURFboard Gigabit Docsis 3.1 Cable Modem, 10 Gbps Max Speed, Approved for Cox, Spectrum and Xfinity, (SB8200 Frustration Free) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DY16W2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OdcqDbMF39946
Router: Unifi Security Gateway Pro 4-Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PBEI5W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Switch for non PoE gear: Ubiquiti US-24 Unifi Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZBLO0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7fcqDbNRQ3ZRH
Switch for PoE gear: Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MicqDbTHS34TA
Access Point(s): Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YhcqDb6EEP86C
If you want to go "pro" on the "cheap", get an Ubiquiti Network UniFi Switch or if you're more old school and want the CLI and more fancy L3 features, the EdgeSwitch. It's enterprise quality gear at SOHO prices.
This is what I use personally: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-24-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01LZBLO0U/ref=sr_1_5
Like all Unifi series gear from Ubiquiti it requires running their management software to configure it. Makes it super easy to setup if you're not into the CLI thing. Their Wifi AP's and other gear are reasonably priced and kick ass as well.
Why not try the Unifi 24-port PoE-less switch and get a larger PoE injector?
Puts you at <US$350 shipped and keeps things fairly simple, no?
You could add any eight-port switch, even save a bit if it doesn't need to be managed (or necessarily managed by Unifi).
FYI $130 on Amazon. I am so incredibly tempted.
Have a CRS226-24G-2S+IN, but 4x SFP+ would be better...
I use the Mellanox ConnectX cards, they are cheap and work with almost all Linux/Debian/Windows distros without any special drivers.
You should be able to use a DAC (Direct attached cable) between your server and desktop machine for up to 10Gbps transfer speeds.
I haven't done it personally, but it should be able to work.
There are also a few cheap switches out there with 10Gb capabilities.
https://www.amazon.com/MikroTik-CRS305-1G-4S-Gigabit-Ethernet-RouterOS/dp/B07LFKGP1L
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDiiHN0MPdA
NETGEAR 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (JGS524) - Desktop/Rackmount, and ProSAFE Limited Lifetime Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CWPW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vlSDDbPGDYEY7
Aw, I was just imagining you in your Eagles jersey, hugging one of these bad boys.
I was looking at this TP-Link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BU0EKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GRswzbGTHG9TG
But only 5 year warranty.
This Netgear has lifetime warranty:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CWPW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TSswzbEF9ZDNZ
Is the TP-Link still the better choice? If so, why?
I'm also getting fiber (1Gig).
I'm sure there will be some form of internet, and there will be some form of caching for content from Earth's internet, but I doubt we'll see large-scale recreational internet purely because of cost. It's on the order of $5k per kg to send something to LEO cheaply (it an be upwards of $15k on less efficient launch platforms). So let's assume we can do Mars cheaply and call it 5 times that cost to get there. An average rack mount server weighs around 25kg so we're already looking at ~$600k for the server itself. Add another 10kg for ancillary equipment (power supply (1.5kg), rack mount switch (3kg), some cabling (1kg), etc) and we're up to $750k. Add another 9kg for 16 TB of local storage and we're up to close to a million dollars, plus the cost of the hardware itself.
Then there's the power draw--850 watt hours for the server plus the other equipment. Let's ballpark that at 1 kilowatt hour, or 24 kWh per day if we want 24x7 availability, that's going to be 80kg of solar panels (excluding any ancillary equipment to manage the power and assuming 24 hours of production at light levels of open space near earth) for another $2,000,000.
I guess my point is that I really, really doubt that any Earth-Mars internet will be more than real-time emails and scientific data. Don't expect to watch Netflix on Mars Net.
Should I go with this switch?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CWPW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GLzdBb1N7174Q
I'm using this for my Wi-Fi right now and it works great. I was planning on using it again.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXL1AR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fQzdBb5Q5680Z
How many access points would I need over 1400 square feet? I wouldn't think it's very many.
good investigating. looks like there's a damaged pair in that run, causing the link to negotiate to 10/100 rather than gigabit.
I'd be careful with that switch though... there are plenty of good cheap switches, I've never heard anything, neither good nor bad about the Netis brand, and when you work with as much equipment as I do, that's a red flag.
The cheap unmanaged switch I usually recommend is the D-Link series of black-box switches (DGS-105/DGS-108); I've used them in simple networks and they've worked reliably for years with relatively high throughput requirements. Pretty impressive for such a cheap switch.
Amazon link:
8 Port: https://www.amazon.ca/D-Link-8-Port-Gigabit-Switch-DGS-108/dp/B000BCC0LO
5 Port: https://www.amazon.ca/D-Link-5-Port-Gigabit-Switch-DGS-105/dp/B000BC7QMM
Is your house already wired with cat5? Do you have an ethernet outlet where you want to put your devices (tv, ps4 etc)? If so just connect a network switch to that outlet and connect your devices to the switch. These are the ones I use. https://www.amazon.ca/D-Link-5-Port-Gigabit-Switch-DGS-105/dp/B000BC7QMM/ref=sr_1_2?crid=JJ3ZW35KH4NE&amp;keywords=dlink+ethernet+switch&amp;qid=1550250756&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=dlink+ethern%2Caps%2C142&amp;sr=8-2
Something like this or this should do the job pretty easily.
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B000BC7QMM/ref=asc_df_B000BC7QMM46121177/?tag=googshopit-21&amp;creative=23390&amp;creativeASIN=B000BC7QMM&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvqmt=
Sorry for the language! :P
Buy an Ethernet hub and you can split one Ethernet cord into many. They are like $20.
EDIT: Like this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/D-Link-Gigabit-Unmanaged-Desktop-DGS-105/dp/B000BC7QMM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525207011&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=D-Link+5+Port+Gigabit+Unmanaged+Metal+Desktop+Switch+%28DGS-105%29
Hi folks I am having a huge problem!
I cannot join any Splatoon 2 Online game.
Error-Code: 2618-0513
The thing is I am living in student flat and I am using the university internet. I moved to another student flat a few days ago, same router (Fritz Box Phone WLAN 7112), same Switch OS version. In my old flat it worked without any problems...
I am using the same LogIn Data as well, so I cannot understand why I am having a problem like this out of a sudden.
Also I am using a GigaBit Switch: (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000BC7QMM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
Ethernet to GigaBit Port -> GigaBit Port to Router.
Any solutions? Google didnt help :S
Just a basic d-link 8 port switch
https://www.amazon.ca/D-Link-8-Port-Gigabit-Switch-DGS-108/dp/B000BCC0LO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485789031&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=dlink+8+port
Can always add more wireless access points (APs) if the house is already wired. The other option is to put a switch in the basement and put the router in a central location.
https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Gigabit-Unmanaged-Desktop-DGS-108/dp/B000BCC0LO/
This will work well. 5 and 8 ports options.
The ER-4 is roughly 9" x 6.5".
This switch is 6.5" x 4", so could sit on top of the ER-4, with no problems. Just look for a switch that has the right number of ports and see how big the options are.
Here it is
You know much about them? I'm looking at https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-8-port-Gigabit-Desktop-Switch/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=lp_680476011_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511549598&amp;sr=1-2&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1 and https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B002HH0W5W/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_of_33?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=1X2CN1746AGX19TW3KMF&amp;th=1
Wiring is a pain in the ass haha hopefully your home is built in a way that makes it easy. I'm currently rewiring my jobs office network and having multiple people is a big help.
I recently bought this switch and think its great for simple scenarios like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HH0W5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q-7FxbDESJKGW
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-TEG-S50g/dp/B001QUA6R0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474396188&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=5+port+switch+gigabit
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-TEG-S5g/dp/B002HH0W5W/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474396188&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=5+port+switch+gigabit
These two drop below $10 every month or so. Keep an eye on them if you need a cheap small switch. Yes they are 500% of the cost but worth every penny.
I also bought a 5 port smart switch for $14 earlier this month. Have to mail in rebate but then that's how you save money.
Thanks for the reply, I have no idea why there are 2, it must be setup that way from the previous owner.
He has a:
Client devices are a few iphones, ipads, Windows computers and a TV that uses Amazon Prime through the network as well
Backordered but you can still buy it
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HH0W5W?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
> 1410
well, it's certainly better than the TP-Link you linked first, but I thought you'd want a managed switch (but that could already be overkill). Aren't 8 Ports enough if there are only 6 rooms (plus Server and Router)?
The throughput of HP's ProCurve or Cisco's SMB switches is enough to run a true Gigabit network without bandwidth bottlenecks, yes. I think for 1080p Netflix even 100Mb/s would be enough (as Netflix uses ~10Mb/s max). I think the limiting factor would rather be the ISP connection.
How fast is Comcast? Don't know shit about American ISPs. If it's a cable provider, don't trust the advertised speeds; calculate with 50% less (= worst case).
You also want to check for a static IP for remote management/troubleshooting; else you need a dynamic DNS service. The Ubiquiti ERLite-3 handles all this perfectly.
EDIT: for a switch, how is the Cisco SG300-10? 10 Ports, Level 3 managed (runs a small business!), 185$. Since the Ubiquiti ERLite-3 is cheaper than the router you first wanted, in my opinion you shouldn't
Congrats on the R710! That's going to be a great machine.
I suggest using the same device as your router/firewall. If your SRX can do both, use it. Then you don't need to add a dedicated router. This will also give you more leeway on the switch. If you want to use Cisco specifically, you can get a basic used switch (eBay example) or a newer switch (Amazon example).
As I mentioned in the first comment, newer equipment is typically better because of the licenses. Older equipment will have limited public firmware. Newer equipment also adheres more closely to newer standards (IEEE 802.blah). Keep in mind the only real difference between switches and routers is layer 2 and layer 3, respectively. This is an oversimplification, but it's fine in this context. Some devices can do both layer 2 and 3.
Since it's your main infrastructure, you may consider getting a high-class managed switch with fewer ports. From that switch, you can branch off into unmanaged switches whose connected MAC addresses can still be configured from the managed switch. You can check eBay (link) for some older Dell models that have great configur-ability -- only $40-100. And Dell is much more public with their firmware. To find out which series is right for you, checkout their Wikipedia page for details.
If you're not bent on Cisco (or iOS in general), checkout Ubiquiti products. And EdgeSwitch seems like the best solution for you. The Unifi products are cloud managed and offer less CLI, which might not be what you're after. Hope this has all been helpful.
I might recommend this line of switches, will run dumb or managed:
http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SG300-10-10-port-Gigabit-SRW2008-K9-NA/dp/B0041ORN6U
Also, I use monoprice cat6 toolless and punch down ends at work, never had any issues with them. I love them. I have even used the high end ICC and other brand ones that are ~$12 a piece and I just haven't encountered a time where I wished I spent that much on everything...
Yea, I know about SG200, I've set a few clients with them. I'm just looking for SG300 user experience. Reviews look good and the fact that they're fanless is a winning combo. I want to purchase 10 port version, I don't need Layer 3 however no fans is a good benefit http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SG300-10-10-port-Gigabit-SRW2008-K9-NA/dp/B0041ORN6U
I'd say it'd be worth it. What switch are you considering purchasing? I really like Trendnet switches, if you're up for suggestions on what to purchase. Here's a 16-port gigabit switch they offer for $77: http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-16-Port-Unmanaged-GREENnet-TEG-S16DG/dp/B0044GJ516
Something like... ?
Unmanaged -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044GJ516/
Managed -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721V1TGV/
I asked because I don't know if this will make much difference:
TP-Link TL-SG1008D
10Gbps Switching Capacity
15K Jumbo Frame
TRENDnet 16-port TEG-S16DG
32Gbps Switching Capacity
10KB Jumbo Frame
NETGEAR GS308-100UKS 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch
this 8 port gigabit switch is inexpensive also i'd go with a Ubiquiti AP
Netgear gs308 is 20.99 on Amazon. Pretty solid switch for the money if you don't need managed.
Edit: £16.99 in UK. https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-GS308-100UKS-Gigabit-Ethernet-Wallmount/dp/B00AWM7PKO
It's an unmanaged switch.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-GS308-100UKS-Gigabit-Ethernet-Wallmount/dp/B00AWM7PKO
Better Option
> 5 old tower desktops, a couple of old laptops, and a raspberry pi
That's more than enough to get a small homelab going.
> can I do this through a regular Wi-Fi router
You probably can but you shouldn't. All your hardware should have ethernet ports, you can get a cheap 8-port unmanaged ethernet switch like this one to connect them together. You would connect each device to the switch with an ethernet cable, and connect the switch to your router with an ethernet cable (your router should have 1-4 ethernet ports on it). The total cost of a switch and cables would probably be less than £/$30, and you probably have some ethernet cables lying around.
> Is it worth connecting a raspberry Pi to a server running 8 computers, like will the resource boost be negligible?
I'm not sure you understand what a Raspberry Pi does. In comparison to most PCs the compute power of a Pi is low, but it can still do lots of useful things (most of the things on the introduction page of the wiki can be done on a Pi). The use of a Pi is as a small computer that can be left running all the time doing important but non-intensive things, e.g., dynamic DNS updates, NTP server, DNS server / ad blocker (Pi-hole). You can run Docker on a Pi (it's a good lightweight way to separate services and make it easier to manage several of them on the same machine). I wouldn't try to run virtual machines on a Raspberry Pi though.
> server running 8 computers
Do you mean running 8 virtual machines?
camel camel camel
Ok, this widens the range by a lot.
The cheapest around that I could find, that is gig is a $90 TP-Link, they also have a version with full 8 port poe for $155.
One of the cheapest around is this Netgear. It's $135 on Amazon, has 8 ports all gig, but only 8 PoE. There is also the unmanaged version for $110.
&nbsp;
I have also seen a Netgear JGS516PE that has 8 PoE ports at around $200 (Amazon currently at $184), but they seem hard to find.
&nbsp;
Unfortunately I have no experience with any of the above gear, as I don't have a lot of PoE stuff at home, and work uses Cisco (which is bloody expensive).
Netgear is not the best company out there, but their switches are generally up to snuff.
Okay, everyone has been helpful so far. I could use some feedback on this:
NETGEAR JGS516PE-100NAS 16-Port Gigabit Rackmount Smart Managed Plus Switch, 85w 8xPoE, ProSAFE Lifetime Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG1ACX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K59VCb0MJYSRM
What is your budget?
Aboved mentioned JGS516PE is smart managed, with 8 PoE ports, $150.
US-16-150W is managed, 16 PoE, but costs more.
How about Netgear? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GG1ACX2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511899439&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=jgs516pe&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41jfnZ1PkOL&amp;ref=plSrch
I have ubiquiti for routing and wireless but kinda pricey for PoE switches. (Just bought a house and 2 week old baby... kinda poor.)
Hey, I'm glad I can talk about this with someone who is interested! No worries of annoying me with your question, networking is my passion.
An unmanaged gigabit switch would be fine for 99% of normal setups. Having a managed switch that supports VLANs will allow more flexibility in how you decide to connect devices logically but in a normal house, it's not necessary. If you start having a lab to play with, security camera you want on a different network, or a guest wifi with users that shouldn't be able to see your other devices, the managed switch becomes a necessity. Honestly, switching hardware for unmanaged switches are probably all made in the same Broadcom factory in China, so any brand will do. When you go for a managed switch, then software quality matters and spending a little more can avoid large frustrations later on.
For a 1Gbps internet link, there are two kinds of setup possible. If you have a larger house, or can't place the router centrally, I would recommend a "separate devices setup" with the Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite, a switch like the Netgear Prosafe GS116E if VLANs are needed or the TP-Link TL-SG108 if they aren't needed and on the AP side, one or two of the Ubiquiti AP AC Lite, or if you want more speed the AP AC Pro. This would allow you to make use of the 1Gbps you get.
You could also go for an integrated unit like the Nighthawk R7000 or the Asus RT-AC68U. If you have a smaller house or apartment and the router can be placed centrally, this is probably the most cost-effective setup.
For something not Ubiquiti, I would suggest Mikrotik, as they will have something that supports 1Gbps routing. They also have nice APs. They have a lot of models though, so I can't say which one would work best.
There are so many choices it's hard to be able to say "this is the best device for you". There are combinations that I know they will work well, but there are so many options I don't know them all.
I use a netgear jgs524e which is fanless.
&#x200B;
NETGEAR ProSAFE JGS524E 24-Port Gigabit Rackmount Web Managed (Plus) Switch (JGS524Ev2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG1AD9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jvj4yb6RY6MA2
Using this to replace my enterasys c3 48 port Poe switch as it draws 100w at idle. I lose poe, but the netgear gets updates and I can just use the Poe injector to power my ubiquiti ap in the living room.
Okay. That at least gives me better capability on the file server, to an extent (with luck, as you mentioned). I guess I'll have to figure out a way to dedicate a link to my desktop, and set the second link to pick up any other traffic if possible. I'm using ubuntu server as my file server, so I'll look around and find out how to set up the links. Once I get some traction in my personal work flow, I'll start adding more equipment.
I'm not going to be using a Cisco switch in my SOHO, not yet at least. I would have no problem with it, but not only do I want something slightly mindless for my home use, but in the event my wife needs to make any changes, I don't want the theoretical service ticket submissions lol.
So I guess the main question I have remaining is: is that switch a good bang for the buck for what I'm looking for? I know the whole LAG thing isn't really going to work out exactly like I theorized, but eh. I've looked at switches like this, but I don't know if I'd be gaining anything more than ports.
If you are in a 1BR or studio, only one ethernet port on the wall will be active. If you want to connect multiple things to ethernet, you'll need to split the line with a network switch.
Here's the one one I used: amazon
This is possible with some custom wiring, but at only 100Mb speeds (2x 2 twisted pairs) - not really a good idea in practice.
Connect one port on the modem to ethernet cable. Connect other end of cable to ethernet switch. Lots of cheap options here:
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged-TL-SG105/dp/B00A128S24/
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged-1000Mbps/dp/B00KFD0SMC/
If you only have to restart the router and not the modem, then it might be a bad router. I have one of these and I love it.
Once the network is reliable, you could use a remote reboot switch to restart the miner. You can even set it automatically power cycle every 'x' minutes.
They make products specifically for this:
https://3gstore.com/product/4186_single_outlet_remote_power_switch.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwpdnJBRC4hcTFtc6fwEkSJABwupNisQoqsaNHTKjX8l_5VT1xJGfQE6QeEkKzB9RWPZhNXRoCofzw_wcB
https://www.amazon.com/3Gstore-Remote-Power-IP-Switch/dp/B00LLVQ9OI
Middle Atlantic's RackLink is probably way out of your budget, but it's a feature on their products as well:
http://www.middleatlantic.com/products/power/ip-power-control-management.aspx
"Auto Ping monitors remote IP devices and automatically restarts if remote device stops responding"
If DIY is truly the way you want to go with this, you could easily do this with an ESP8266 (like a Wemos D1 Mini) with the Relay Shield- just wire the relay inline with the power cable (black/hot wire) and have the D1 ping the device and execute as needed to control the relay. Parts would likely be under $10 for this. Here's a walkthrough for one- https://medium.com/@monkeytypewritr/amazon-echo-esp8266-iot-a42076daafa5
I was thinking a smaller purposed unit like this, or full remotely switched pdu if I made a lackrack or something.
Not the solution you're looking for, but this is what I use - resets my cable modem automatically when connectivity is lost:
https://www.amazon.com/3Gstore-Remote-Power-IP-Switch/dp/B01GOOE8OY/
There is also this:
https://www.amazon.com/3Gstore-Remote-Power-IP-Switch/dp/B00LLVQ9OI/
There are several. this is another example of one. And a lot that are configured like a 1u power strip.
Thanks for the tip. Much appreciated!
So would the Router and Switch combination below work together fine? There are a couple of different EdgeRouters and I just want to make sure I buy the correct equipment. Also, and this may be a stupid question, but do you have to buy the POE Edgerouter or would a regular non-POE EdgeRouter work as well?
Equipment
EdgeSwitch:
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-ER-X-SFP-US-Advanced-Gigabit/dp/B012X45WH6/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464060336&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=ubiquiti+edgerouter+gigabit
If you think a different Edgerouter would be more appropriate, your feedback would be greatly appreciated. I'm kind of new to all of this.
EdgeRouter:
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeSwitch-ES-24-250W-24-Ports-Managed/dp/B00LV8Z2V2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464059733&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ubiquiti+edgeswitch#Ask
The PoE cameras are definitely 802.3af/at but the Ubiquiti switch I linked to supports both af/at and passive.
I think my main concern would be power draw and noise of having 1x 24 port PoE switch vs a combination of 1 PoE and 1 non-PoE switch.
For example, the 8 port PoE switch I'm using at the moment is pretty loud so I've ordered a 40mm Noctua fan just to get the noise down. I need to read up further on what the noise levels will be on this one.
Thanks. Found it on amazon. Do you think they're worth €450?
If you want to assign IPs to each drop I assume you will need to use a managed switch like this. If you want to manage everything in DD-WRT you would assign static IPs to every MAC regardless of port you could use something like this
The other commentors are giving solid recommendations. To complement their higher-end suggestions I'll toss out a couple of options at the lower range since you're upgrading from equipment that was End Of Sale in early 2006 and End Of Support in early 2011. I'm assuming your client may be price sensitive since they're fine using a basic feature set on a 100mbps switch model that has been highly derided in the industry as a faulty platform.
For the cheapest option I know of that doesn't sacrifice quality, I'll suggest the TP-Link SG3424 -- 24 gigabit ports, LAG/LACP support, 4 SFP ports, physical console port for CLI access (very IOS-like interface and command structure), remote access via SSH and Telnet, and a simple-but-effective web config option via HTTP and HTTPS. I have used these frequently as an alternative to Cisco/etc for price-sensitive customers including nonprofits, small businesses, and education environments with no issues over the past 3-5 years. Price: $250 on Amazon Prime -- http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG3424-Pure-Gigabit-Bandwidth-Management/dp/B005B7YVCK/ Its brother, the SG3424P provides the same features along with PoE on all 24 ports for $500.
Another low-budget switch I see highly recommended but haven't tried personally is the Ubiquiti EdgeSwitch ES-24-250W. The tradeoffs compared to the SG3424 are: no physical console port, higher price ($400 vs. $250), and fewer SFP ports (2 vs. 4). http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeSwitch-ES-24-250W-24-Ports-Managed/dp/B00LV8Z2V2/
so something like this might be my next best option? https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Systems-SmartPro-Stackable-DGS-1510-28X/dp/B00MCZNW5G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484250231&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=10g+switch
I recently did some.
monoprice cat6a UTP 22awg CMR UL Listed, mono price keystones and patch panel cat6a UTP UL listed. Don't buy STP or foiled. Some area's code requires CMP for plenum run's. It's very expensive only buy to meet code.
If you're running a lot of wires I'd recommend the patch panel. If you secure it to something make sure that it can't move. One of the 4 post 20U+ racks secured down to something.
Layer3 isn't a requirement. It can speed things up by not needing to go to the router to be routed. You can run a lot of services on your router so passing traffic through it is not a bad thing. a switch with spf+ and a pfsense box with spf+ can get you 10G. 10G is overkill in most cases. Many 2+ switches have bonding. So you can do 2 or 4g that way.
unifi has a 16 port switch with POE. It's pricey. You can get 10G switches around that price. POE adds quite a bit of cost. If it's only for unifi access points you can inject power to them, there is no price difference for injectors. Buying an injector with many slots is an option too.
https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Systems-SmartPro-Stackable-DGS-1510-20/dp/B00MCZNW5G?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-16-150W-UniFi-Switch/dp/B01E46ATQ0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540398551&sr=1-3&keywords=unifi+16+port+poe+switch
BOOM! i asked this same question not long ago! it's not loud but, it does have a fan. partial L3/L2. SFP+ ports can be used for routing and switching and not just stacking.
https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Systems-SmartPro-Stackable-DGS-1510-28X/dp/B00MCZNW5G/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484946167&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=D-Link+DGS-1510-28X
https://community.spiceworks.com/topic/1957956-looking-for-a-24-port-1gbps-w-4x-10bgps-sfp
This may fit the bill...
Might check this out:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MCZNW5G/ref=twister_B010NPWBGW?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This topic is asked frequently both here and /r/datahoarder but since I just did a bunch of research on the topic I'd be happy to share with you what I found.
There are even Quanta L6BM's up on ebay for $299.
So I went with the D-Link and it's great. The web interface is snappy and it has a CLI. Plugged a Mellanox card into it via Twinax and it didn't complain at all. Great performance and easy to manage, oh and it uses 19 watts of power.
I'm looking at this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3CTEG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y-QDybV6VSTVH for my PC/Mac setup I'm finalizing.
This may not be the answer you are looking for but I found monitor/KVMs to be prohibitively expensive.
I have this: usb switch
Both of my monitors have DVI/DP inputs so I use one for desktop, one for work laptop. To switch between work and desktop I press the usb hub switch, which is mounted under my desk, and switch inputs on monitor. I was not willing to spend multiple $100s on the setup and this seems to solve my problem well.
I have this usb hub plugged into my surface dock. The hub's completely full and I don't have any problems.
If your going to want to to switch the hub between the surface dock and another laptop, you'll either just need to unplug the usb from the dock and put it into the generic laptop when you use it, or you can use a usb switch. Just have one end of it just a usb for your generic laptop, and the other into the surface dock, and you can press the button to switch. Depending on the number of shared (shared as in easily switching back and forth. not using at the same time) peripherals you want to use, you could just get a switch with multiple usb ports
This is pretty spot on and why I ended up going with 2 separate systems instead of dual booting. I know a lot of people don't have that luxury but if you can swing it, I think this is a much better solution. Also 2 monitors would be a must. A kvm switch like this allows you to use the same keyboard/mouse for both systems. It's still annoying at times, but much, much better than dual booting in my opinion. And idk about you, but I only need a good system for gaming. My linux one would be considered subpar in every way but it works fine for me.
this one.
works pretty well, only been using it a few weeks so far. the only time I've run in to an issue is one time windows freaked out and wouldn't detect kb/mouse when I switched until I restarted. osx was fine even then though.
KVMs that support DisplayPort 1.2 (4k) AND usb3 are non-existent or insanely expensive, so this was really the only option.
This is what I use : https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00Y3CTEG2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It doesn't do that. Seems like everything is hardwired. What other brands would you suggest that do what I wanted?
This is correct -- My PC and NAS are connected to an unmanaged netgear switch, which is then connected to a port on the Ubiquiti router.
Could I use something like this? And connect my PC directly to the mirrored port?
https://www.amazon.com/midBit-Technologies-LLC-100-1000/dp/B0175EODCE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=network+tap&amp;qid=1556664438&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
You need one of these between the router and the wall to run wire-shark on ->https://www.amazon.com/midBit-Technologies-LLC-100-1000/dp/B0175EODCE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=network+tap&amp;qid=1556664438&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
gigabit taps are available - https://www.amazon . com/midBit-Technologies-LLC-100-1000/dp/B0175EODCE/
Am not OP, can't speak to this particular device, but I do use some of their other products, like this guy to power my USG and have no issues with gigabit speeds.
Yes, gigabit rated. Here's the ones I bought:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017J8WJ5E
Are you talking about this model?
Thats what I was kinda thinking. I don't really have a ton of cash for all the awesome stuff I see on this sub. I was thinking about getting one of these switches, some larger HDD's (greater than 2TB anyways), iDrac enterprise because neither of my r710's have it, and if I had some leftover maybe a or a couple smaller SSD's for OS's that I want to install. This would mean I still don't have a rack, but I figured I'd just wait until I saw a steal on Craigslist for one anyways
Edit: formatting
TP-Link T1700G-28TQ
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-JetStream-24-Port-Ethernet-T1700G-28TQ/dp/B01CHP5IAC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510782093&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=TP-Link+T1700G-28TQ
Has some mixed reviews but was the only option in my budget.
Havent had any issues till now, updated the firmware without any issues, running stable for a few months now with the latest firmware. It's a 28 Port (24x GbE and 4x SFP+) Switch and does what I need it to do. Nothing fancy but it's mine and I can use my 10G NICs =)
Look into sfp+ 10 gig cards and a switch like this
TP-Link JetStream 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Smart Switch with 4-10GE SFP+ Slots (T1700G-28TQ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CHP5IAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-nvDDbEAGPG1H
Similar idea to the switch you linked, but your get 2 more 10gig ports, quite a few more 1 gig ports. The nics are considerably cheaper, I found some on Amazon for $10 each. Also this switch is much nicer and you can do a whole lot more with it.
So even with 4 cards and this switch you're cheaper than one of the cards you linked and your original switch.
I've got an ERL, unifi APs and mostly TP-link managed switches and everything works fine.
I did buy a Unifi Switch 8 to see if going to Unifi switches would offer anything I care about, and found it didn't really. It does fill out the topology map and you can select the same vlan sets you configure for the APs, but the price premium wasn't worth it for me and didn't offer any more capability.
I have not used the EdgeSwitches, so can't comment there.
Personally, I'd go for the cheapest thing you can find that does what you want: 10Gb is real close to reaching the mainstream, and you'll probably want to upgrade in a couple years.
IMHO for 24 ports, that's this if you don't need LACP (has static LAG but not LACP which offers more speed but not really more reliability), this if you want LACP, and this is about the cheapest way to get 4 10Gb ports and is even passively cooled!
I've been looking for something similar and may go with the TP-Link Jetstream T1700G at about $300 you get 24 Gigabit copper and 4x SFP+
edit: fixed broken Amazon link
> US-16-XG
That thing is beautiful but I looked up the price and fainted. Damn. I mean, it's not THAT much in comparison to enterprise switches out there but still pricey. But it's exactly what I want.
>$588.98
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ES-16-XG-EdgeSwitch-Aggregation/dp/B01K2Y1HP0
That would work, and there's like half a dozen different "versions" of that exact same thing, the Quanta LB6M being the cheapest. As mentioned, they're loud, put out a lot of heat, and take a lot of power to do so.
If budget isn't such a big concern, I'd probably go with this thing or this one. They're (supposedly, I don't have one) quiet and burn about 20W.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ES-16-XG-Edge-Switch/dp/B01K2Y1HP0
So the best way to maximize the use of the two on-board 10gb copper connectors would be to LACP them into a compatible switch, and then use other ports on said switch to communicate with other endpoints using other 10gb adapters. This would require a switch such as the https://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/edgemax/EdgeSwitch_ES-16-XG_DS.pdf. ($600, CDN). This would work but requires SFP+ connections for any more than four copper ethernet hosts, or a 10gb connection to a top-of-rack type switch.
The next best would be to use both connectors to aggregate the connection to the switch and then have multiple 1gb hosts share the 10gb of bandwidth back to the GA-7PESH2 host. This is probably the most economical route to take as much advantage of the bandwidth as possible. I know of very few actual setups where this wouldn't supply enough bandwidth. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B076642YPN/ref=emc_b_5_t at $300 this is a pretty decent option.
Sub-optimal would be to have the 10gb connections in LACP with two 1GB ports on a compatible switch (most people would probably be in this camp). You can use existing equipment and wait until lower cost rj45 8+ port managed solutions are available. Most of us are sitting in the wait and see camp.
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "CDN"
----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
Well a router is just hardware capable of networking. If you build a PC and throw, for example, pfSense, Vyatta, VyOS, etc. on it, then you can use the PC as a router.
Personally I think for personal use, building your own 10Gbps router is the best idea. Those fuckers are damn expensive.
As for switching, would you want full 10Gbps network connectivity in your house? Or just 1Gbps clients then 10Gbps uplinks? This will decide whether you have a loud and super expensive setup vs a quietish and not so expensive setup.
Edit: Here's a potentially decent deal? https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ES-16-XG-Edge-Switch/dp/B01K2Y1HP0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519897491&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=edgeswitch-16-xg
According to UBNT's documentation for this, it has static routing and DHCP meaning you *could* theoretically use it as a very basic router, however I would seriously recommend having a firewall between this and WAN.
So should something like this work better?
Using this USG
And using this Switch
Then I was going to just grab a 24 Patch Panel and a small Wall Mounted Rack off of Monoprice. Then Whenever I expand the network later, I wont be having to buy more. Unless I'm just over killing.
Why do you need to create a VLAN for your guest WiFi? I'm fairly sure (like 80% sure) that within the Unifi AP config, you can create a guest network and segregate it from your main network. It's not a true VLAN, but it accomplishes the same thing.
What are you using for you Layer 3 device? A consumer WiFi router or a pfSense box?
If you want to stay in the Unifi environment you can pick up a non-PoE 24-port switch for ~$190
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-24-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01LZBLO0U/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2IPPCTEPR6CMS&keywords=unifi+24+port+poe+switch+250w&qid=1566319361&s=gateway&sprefix=unifi+24%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-5
&#x200B;
Edited to fix typos...
> but I don't know if they sell one with 4 ports.
You can get up to 6 keystone jacks in a 1-gang box
> I thought that I would buy a new rack-mountable switch and patch panel. This is what I've been considering:
Like /u/toaster_knight said, get a vertical or deeper one. I would strongly recommend an actual enclosure with a locking door for an office environment.
I also see no reason to put anything smaller than a 24-port in a rack. It's just a waste of space and money.
I would also recommend at least a SMB-level switch. Yes, they are more expensive, but their uptime and management capabilities are worth it IMO. The Ubiquiti 24-port switch is under $200 IIRC.
> I'm assuming that I can rest the router on top of the switch.
That will probably be fine, but you can get rackmount shelves and drawers as well. The shelf is nice because you can remove the switch without messing about with the router.
> I'd also like to buy some type of cable organizers for inside the ceiling. I normally use those small cable clips, but they seem to be intended for one cable. I've seen velcro used, but I'm not sure how to actually secure the cables.
You can get joist hangers, but inside a ceiling, the cables are usually just bundled and left loose or in a tray. If you have a drop ceiling, there are a wide variety of products designed for your support system.
I would also recommend a UPS and a power distribution panel. UPS for obvious reasons and the power panel will let you easily power cycle each component without having to dig into the back--something that gets much harder after rack-mounting.
Looks like a new one is $195-220 on Amazon, I bet you could put it on there for $160-180 easy and get it sold, just make sure you note that it was only a year old and used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01LZBLO0U/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8
Late to the game, Amazon
My NICs and my switch are linked below. I wish I had saved the link where it said that VMware 10Gb NICs didn't support auto-negotiate. I don't recall it being specific to a chipset. I may dig into my history this weekend, 'cuz if that's not it, I'd like to know what I did to fix this issue. It was a PITA!
MikroTik CRS305-1G-4S+in Switch 1x Gigabit Ethernet Port
]Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-Epress x 8 10GBe](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016OYD0D4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
I use a D-Link Gigbit Router and CAT 6 cabling between my PS4 and PC... Works perfectly, I platinumed DOOM and Uncharted 4 this way.
Don't do a direct Ethernet connection, even if you can screw around with the local IP's to get them on the same subnet, it's totally not worth it... The problem is, that you have a bottleneck somewhere on your home network and one of these devices is most likely only 100mbps:
PC NIC -> Ethernet Cable -> Router -> Ethernet Cable -> PS4.
Check your cabling says either CAT 5E or CAT 6 on them, and check the model of your router supports Gigabit Ethernet... Chances are your PC NIC and PS4 do. I use one of these bad boys in an 8 Port and it's been amazing:
https://www.amazon.ca/D-Link-5-Port-Gigabit-Switch-DGS-105/dp/B000BC7QMM/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487008430&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=gigabit+switch+5+port
You could look into a 24-port Ubiquiti Edgeswitch. It will do POE and they are pretty simple to work with but have a full range of features.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeSwitch-ES-24-250W-24-Ports-Managed/dp/B00LV8Z2V2
D-Link dgs-1510-28x is a solid contender for those specs at $432.
I'm wondering what use case you have for pfSense to need a 10gb connection. Do you have 10gb internet? Otherwise it seems like a waste to me.
For cheap 10GB switching, get one of these. It's a bit over your budget, but not much. Then just get a couple of these. They come with the cable, so that's all you need. You could get just two of the cards and one cable and go direct from PC to server to start, then get the switch later on when you need to add a 3rd device.
Why you should care about encrypting and anonymizing your internet traffic, and how to build your very own Raspberry Pi TOR project.
RasPi AP
Steps
-- Open Terminal
-- "sudo raspi-config"
-- Select option 1
-- Select option 2
** RasPi will Reboot
-- Open Terminal
-- "git clone https://github.com/unixabg/RPI-Wireless-Hotspot.git"
-- "cd RPI-Wireless-Hotspot"
-- "sudo ./install"
-- "Y" to agree to terms
-- "Y" to use preconfigured DNS
-- "Y" to use Unblock-Us DNS servers
-- "N" for WiFi defaults
-- Type in a new WiFi password (it will be checked)
-- Type in a new SSID
-- Type in your desired WiFi channel (1, 6, 11)
-- Type "N" when asked - "Are you using a rtl871x chipset?" --
-- Type "N" for chromecast support (unless you plan to use a chromecast w/RasTor)
** Your Pi will reboot
What's in your traffic stream?
Why should we care about encrypting/anonymizing our traffic?
The easiest way to explain this is to show you what can be seen by your ISP.
Parts and Tools
RasPi TOR
Steps
-- "sudo apt-get install tor"
-- "Y" on "continue?"
-- "sudo nano /etc/tor/torrc"
-- Add the following just below the first set of comments
Log notice file /var/log/tor/notices.log
VirtualAddrNetwork 10.192.0.0/10
AutomapHostsSuffixes .onion,.exit
AutomapHostsOnResolve 1
TransPort 9040
TransListenAddress 192.168.42.1
DNSPort 53
DNSListenAddress 192.168.42.1"
-- "sudo iptables -F"
-- "sudo iptables -t nat -F"
-- "sudo iptables -t nat -A PREROUTING -i wlan0 -p udp --dport 53 -j REDIRECT --to-ports 53"
-- "sudo iptables -t nat -A PREROUTING -i wlan0 -p tcp --syn -j REDIRECT --to-ports 9040"
-- "sudo iptables -t nat -L"
"sudo sh -c "iptables-save > /etc/iptables.ipv4.nat""
-- "sudo touch /var/log/tor/notices.log"
-- "sudo chown debian-tor /var/log/tor/notices.log"
-- "sudo chmod 644 /var/log/tor/notices.log"
600 : Only owner can read/write
644 : Only owner can write, others can read
*** 666 : All uses can read/write.
-- "sudo service tor start"
-- "sudo service tor status"
-- "sudo update-rc.d tor enable"
Be Sure to Include this text in the notes!!!
"* Install the WiFi Hotspot
git clone https://github.com/unixabg/RPI-Wireless-Hotspot.git
cd RPI-Wireless-Hotspot
sudo ./install
Install TOR
sudo apt-get install tor
Configure TOR
sudo nano /etc/tor/torrc
Add the following to the config file
Log notice file /var/log/tor/notices.log
VirtualAddrNetwork 10.192.0.0/10
AutomapHostsSuffixes .onion,.exit
AutomapHostsOnResolve 1
TransPort 9040
TransListenAddress 192.168.42.1
DNSPort 53
DNSListenAddress 192.168.42.1
Dump iptable
sudo iptables -F
sudo iptables -t nat -F
Route DNS
sudo iptables -t nat -A PREROUTING -i wlan0 -p udp --dport 53 -j REDIRECT --to-ports 53
Route TCP
sudo iptables -t nat -A PREROUTING -i wlan0 -p tcp --syn -j REDIRECT --to-ports 9040
Check Routes
sudo iptables -t nat -L
Save routes
sudo sh -c ""iptables-save > /etc/iptables.ipv4.nat""
Create Log File
sudo touch /var/log/tor/notices.log
sudo chown debian-tor /var/log/tor/notices.log
sudo chmod 644 /var/log/tor/notices.log
Start TOR
sudo service tor start
Check TOR
sudo service tor status
Set TOR to start on boot
sudo update-rc.d tor enable
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