(Part 2) Best cpu cooling fans according to redditors

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We found 3,636 Reddit comments discussing the best cpu cooling fans. We ranked the 467 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top Reddit comments about Computer CPU Cooling Fans:

u/pencilbagger · 1362 pointsr/worldnews

It really needs to show the seller on verified purchases, the only way now to know if a seller is selling a fake/expired/different version is if the person specifically mentions it in their review. Even ebay shows the seller in reviews and it has helped me out more than a few times, especially with generic chinese stuff where you don't really know what you're getting.

They also desperately need to separate reviews so you aren't getting reviews for say a 10 inch pan when you're looking at the 12 inch, right now the only way you see the reviews for only that product is by going to all reviews and filtering it. Hell, there's a coolermaster cooler page that has like 7-10 different products that have wildly different designs and applications whose reviews are all lumped together.

edit: found it and counted them, there are TWENTY ONE different products on this page that all contribute to the star rating and are all thrown in together in the review section unless you specifically filter it, though some are just color variations that's actually fucking ridiculous.

u/nataku411 · 52 pointsr/gamingpc

Definitely get a cheap 3rd party cooler for that CPU my dude. An H7 would do just fine.

Edit: On second thought, Cryorig must be going out of business because the cooler I paid under around $30 is now well over $100. Another great option would be the budget king H212 Evo and step-ups include Noctua's offering or the Scythe Mugen, BeQuiet's, all are great budget coolers.

u/dzlux · 43 pointsr/buildapcsales

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XCCM7V/

Note: newegg shows 3 fans on first photo, amazon shows 0 fans on first photo - both details list 2 fans included.

u/CryMeAn0cean · 23 pointsr/buildapcsales

This is a great price for this cooler, but not the best value air cooler. This is within the same margin in temp but $36 cheaper and more compact.

u/ItsOnlyDrew · 15 pointsr/buildapcsales

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PC-R1-Direct-Contact/dp/B07H22TC1N/

Update: For those of you with Amazon Prime, they are running the exact same deal.

u/spicedpumpkins · 14 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have this case in 3 builds.

It is my goto suggestion for Micro Atx / phanteks evolv is my suggestion for mini itx.

PROS:

  • Super easy to build in. I would even suggest this to a first time builder.

  • Very good layout for cable management. Has that second side chamber that makes super clean cable layout easy.

  • Extremely good airflow.

  • Rubber Grommets

  • Can fit large video cards but don't be a dope, check measurements before you buy this case.

  • Can fit pretty much any PSU

  • Can hold a shit ton of HDDs and SSDs

    CONS:

  • Will NOT fit most standard air coolers. I'm using the Noctua NH-D9L

  • Does not have a proper mobo cutout (a non revmovable HDD cage is there) so if you intend to install air cooler, make sure you add the bracket before installing the mobo.

  • Minor fit and finish issues.

  • Side panel is easily scratched and on all 3 of my builds is not 100% perfect flush.

  • On one of my units had both bad front and back USB ports so test everything. Exchanged with Amazon and then no problems, everything worked.

  • The top air filter is plastic? mesh material and on boot up slightly rattles when my fans there spin up. The rattling goes away after boot up.

    Overall HIGHLY RECOMMEND. for $55 a steal.
u/strelokjg47 · 11 pointsr/buildapcsales

This cooler can be found at this price, even without MIR. This isn't that great of a deal.


If you want this cooler, but would rather have a blue LED. See the Gamaxx 400, it can be had for $20 without getting AIDS from a MIR. https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GAMMAXX-400-Blue-Compatible/dp/B00JQ2YDCY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=gammaxx+400&qid=1569375664&sr=8-1

u/Trailberry · 9 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

edit: Price went up since posting...

Personally I'd just grab the DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 400 which is about 2 degrees worse according to ( http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2696&page=5), but $24 and no MIR hassle + it's Amazon.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B007JEMXYQ/

I own both on different computers, happy with both so it's just a price point thing to me. GAMMAXX can be a bitch to install though in terms of physical force so youtube some videos to make it easier.

u/Eternal_Ohm · 9 pointsr/buildapc

Arctic Freezer 34 eSports DUO would be a pretty good option to consider

u/Pecansandiez · 8 pointsr/buildapcforme

This cooler is way over kill. Go with something like this instead and save your money. Also, if you're going with 3600 with a b450 MAX board instead of x570.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MJGNJB3/?coliid=ICDMIAPUA3OB3&colid=2EQIY0RRBT9XA&psc=1&

u/JigglyWiggly_ · 8 pointsr/buildapcsales

I'd personally go with the Thermalright macho heatsink, it's ~$50

https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-814256001052-Macho-Rev-B/dp/B00PKJ21LW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1504928782&sr=8-5&keywords=thermalright

It's quite a lot larger, so I am willing to bet it cools better. It cools my 5820k at 4.6 ghz fine.

u/RickGrimesLol · 8 pointsr/buildapcsales

I wouldn't use up my Jet code to save only $11. Best to use it on something that costs at least $250 to get the max value out of it. Amazon also has it for $55 and you don't have to wait on Jet's shipping: http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Silent-Cooling-NH-U9B-SE2/dp/B0065SFEE8

u/ronaldgoddamnreagan · 7 pointsr/buildapc

You don't need to liquid cool if you don't like noise.

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Silent-Cooling-NH-U9B-SE2/dp/B0065SFEE8

It's incredibly silent, and an incredibly powerful air cooler that will let you do some pretty wicked overclocking.

It's better value than the H55 and quieter due to Noctuas awesome fans.

u/BL00DBATH · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

Can't find any direct comparisons, but Overclock3d says the Freezer i32 is better than the H7, Tom's Hardware says the Gammaxx 400 is better than the Freezer i32. Test methodology varies, and Tom's didn't go nearly as hard as Overclock3d on voltage, so it's hard to say anything but that they're comparable.

This cooler is $13.89 on Amazon, no rebate required.

u/ssscarecrow · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

I bought the Scythe Fuma for much cheaper and no regrets!

u/psi-storm · 5 pointsr/Amd

i would choose the 3600 with a better cooler. But none of those. The freezer 34 esports duo is great for 30€. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MC8CRVZ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=J3GQ8UXH3K93&keywords=arctic+freezer+34+esports+duo&qid=1562780599&s=gateway&sprefix=freezer+34%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-7

​

If you want to spend ~50€ the Scythe Fuma. For 70+ the dark rock pro 4 or Noctua D15.

u/ydarb_d · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

Look into the Deepcool Gammaxx 400.

It’s $17 new and the reviews I’ve seen show lower temps by a handful of degrees while also being quieter. The trade off is the aesthetics.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JEMXYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_waX6BbCJ17JNJ

u/RaulNorry · 5 pointsr/sffpc

The stock thermal pad is shite unfortunately, much like the rest of their VRM design. I used this to replace the pad with, it dropped vrm temps by 10-15C and muffled the noise a bit as well. You'll have to remove the silver VRM heatsink with the two screws on the back of the motherboard to get access to it, then basically cut off a piece of the new thermal pad that fits over the chips.

With this motherboard, at stock CPU clocks with core boost enabled (allowing it to boost to 3.9 on all cores), I needed 1.28v, right around there. The way I did it was by going into the bios (press Delete during the uefi splash screen). If you don't see "advanced frequency settings" along with other menu options, click the word "classic" at the top of your screen.

Now, under Advanced Frequency Settings, you need to set your cpu clock to 36, and under advanced cpu core settings, turn "core performance boost" to auto. Hit escape twice, then go to advanced voltage settings. In the cpu Vcore, type in 1.225 and press enter, then push the + key on your keyboard until the value changes to 1.28125V. This was the value that worked for me, I stress tested with cinebench and prime95 to make sure it wasn't crashing.

You can do mostly the same thing with the GPU and SOC voltage settings in the bios, plug in the default value on the right and use the + and - keys to adjust as necessary. Do be aware that Vega 11 has a clock dead zone between 1300-1400mhz so don't bother overclocking the GPU under 1400 MHz. I didn't experiment with undervolting or underclocking the GPU since I was trying to game on the computer without a discrete gpu.

If you want to learn more about VRMs and how they work, I'd suggest watching some videos by Buildzoid on YouTube, his channel is called Actually Hardcore Overclocking. As far as what exactly gigabyte fucked up on this board, it's hard to say, but I do know that the cpu is massively overvolted by default and the physical implementation of the VRM chips was poorly done.

u/onliandone · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Okay. You basically picked the best parts of every category, apart from the ram, and put them in a build. That does not make the build bad, it just makes it complete overkill. With the exception of overwatch, to reach 100 FPS there in best settings the GTX 1070 is not wrong, see http://www.gamersnexus.net/game-bench/2200-overwatch-gpu-benchmark-and-fps-tests. But if you play that on low as well you should get a used GTX 970.

Mainboard is unnecessary expensive, cooler bigger than needed even if you want to overclock more than mildly, i7 is wasted money over an i5, the 950 Pro also serves no purpose. Half of that ram would be enough, half of that half would work as well. The R5 is a good case and I won't criticize that choice. For the psu a 550W unit would be perfectly fine.

pc-kombo shared list

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K | EUR 236,24 @ Amazon.de
Motherboard | MSI Z170A PC-Mate | EUR 109,43 @ Cyberport
Memory | G.Skill 16GB DDR4 3000 (16 GB) | EUR 81,08 @ Amazon.de
SSD | SanDisk Ultra II 480 (512 GB) | EUR 119,00 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | Radeon R9 Fury | EUR 418,00 @ Mindfactory
Case | Fractal Design R5 | EUR 104,90 @ Cyberport
Power Supply | Seasonic G550 (550 W) | EUR 87,00 @ Amazon.de
CPU Cooler | Thermalright Macho Rev.B | EUR 46,99 @ Amazon.de
| Total | €1210.63
| Generated by pc-kombo 03.06.2016 |

Here the Fury is a placeholder for the GTX 1070. Though, like I said, whether that is even close to a sound buy depends on the wanted overwatch settings.

u/KevinTran91 · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

Try the Thermalright Macho Rev B

It's going for $50 and I think it had done better than the Noctua D15 in some tests too. Check the reviews

u/zenthrowaway17 · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Yeah, you'd want a better cooler for overclocking the 9700K (which I assume you're doing since you're getting a fairly expensive motherboard and PSU).

Something in the $50 range would be like a Thermalright Macho Rev. B or, if you really hate noise, the Scythe Mugen 5.

Although the 9700K can benefit from even more.

I wouldn't recommend the 860 EVO, as you could get something much better for the same price, the adata xpg sx8200 pro, which competes with the 970 evo.

FYI, that motherboard is currently available on Amazon right now for $180. Hasn't updated on PCPP yet.

u/TristanDuboisOLG · 4 pointsr/hardwareswap

If you would like to try, there are a couple of things you could do, though they vould be rather "jank"

  1. You can try ordering som thermal pads to use as a heat interface between the rear VRMs and the backplate (assuming there is a backplate).
    This might work but if the issue is cooling itself you may need active cooling. I'd test it without a fan, and then again with a fan.

  2. You can try removing the backplate and adding some heat pipes directly onto the aforementioned thermal pads. Doing this could be tricky but I believe that you could simply use zip ties and rubber o-rings as spacers to keep the heat pipes from making contact on the back of the PCB. The idea behind this is that if it is a heat problem, those heatpipes will be able to disperse the heat over a larger area much faster than a plain metal backplate. This would involve you possibly adding a fan near or on the area. Make sure that the heat pipes aren't making contact with any part of the backplate except the thermal pads though. Very important.

  3. Buy a new card. I hate to say this but custom machining a waterblock is a pain. I know, I've done it before. Finding materials is pretty simple online now, but finding a workshop that not only is available but can babysit you and their equipment through the whole process is pretty rare.

    Out of all of these, the pads + active cooling is the cheapest at ~$6. But for about ~$20 you could do heat pipes and pads. I honestly would love to see the result if you do decide to do this. LMK
u/hungrydano · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

Yes, the differences between the models are color and tempered glass vs steel.

Also here are the cooler models I mentioned:

ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO Edition - Tower CPU Cooler with Push-Pull Configuration, Wide Range of Regulation 200 to 2100 RPM, Includes 2 Low Noise PWM 120 mm Fans – White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MJGNJB3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2Zw3CbSHTKJ8A

Scythe Mugen 5 CPU Cooler with Sealed Precision FDB Kaze Flex 120mm PWM Fan (SCMG-5100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6CR4GH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P0w3CbKYCBVKJ

TRUE Spirit 140 Direct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQCK1PJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l1w3Cb7BJKJZP

u/YaGottadoWhatYaGotta · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

Yea I'm running stock fan, I have seen the thing go to 85+ degrees, clocks around 4100mhz. Reading this makes it seem like these temps might be damaging? I usually like a processor to last year's...so I'm concerned.

Do you think this will do it some good? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JEMXYQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

u/football13tb · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You CPU is fine, no reason to upgrade it. However a new CPU cooler might help you get more performance out of it (assuming its reaching its thermal temp limits)

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-T2-Heatpipes/dp/B00K7809O2/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RNHCFJDV732S239M2QBW

As far as GPU prices... the only thing worth getting would be a gtx 1060 3gb because anything less than that wouldn't even be an upgrade.

u/antiname · 3 pointsr/Amd
u/Spjs · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Should I get the H7, or this 612?
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Direct-Contact/dp/B00PJSFR7Y/

Both are around the same price. I'm currently stuck on an Intel stock cooler, and I feel like my temps have been getting way too high as of late.

u/TheBlackChair · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Ye I had an Cooler Master Hyper 612 with 6 heatpipes and the i7 7700k was still hitting 85C with me...in the end I had to swap it for a CORSAIR Hydro H75

That said there is no guarantee that it's the heating that's causing the problem

u/nerdydodger · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Take a look at the NH-D9L, possibly pairing it with another Pull fan of your choice. It's small, has good performance for its size, a bit pricey, and kinda cute. I like mine.

u/Ludeykrus · 3 pointsr/LittleRock

Hey man, I'll never turn away a free opinion or suggestion!

-Ram is fully pushed in
-GPU fan stays on
--I can unplug the output from a laptop's HDMI that is functioning and plug into the desktop build, and get nothing. Suspect the desktop build just has nothing to report... Motherboard ?

I'm pretty familiar with fixing/messing with computers, but admittedly this is my first build. The build is as follows:

-Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro (new)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K6S1B3Q/

-Motherboard: ASUS Z10PE-D16 WS (new)

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813132416

-CPUs: 2x E5-2697 v3 (Ebay – used from Canada)

-PSU: EVGA Supernova 1000 PQ (new)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BVQKWYH/

-Coolers: 2x Noctua NH-D9L (new)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QCEWTAW/

-GPU: MSI Radeon RX650 (used but tested working on my other server)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072J422CZ/

-RAM: 4 x Hynix HMA42GR7MFR4N-TF 16GB DDR4-2133 2Rx4 ECC REG Server Memory (new)

At this point, the motherboard will get juice, the power and reset button will light up, I get two LEDs on the mobo lighting up (one is the onboard administrator/controller flashing LED), and the GPU fan will spin up mildly, but will not get anything as far as BIOS posting out of HDMI or DisplayPort on the GPU to a good screen. I get a power dip when I hit the case’s power button (I live in an older 1960’s home), but nothing comes of it.

I’ve went through the cabling and I think I’ve got everything right. I’ve tried single CPU, 1-4 sticks of RAM, etc, and I’m drawing a blank. I bought 4x 16gb of RAM that met the specs per the manual, but weren't on the manufacturer's short "compatible list". So I bought two more sticks of compatible RAM per ASUS, and they still don't allow boot.

u/SlowBoiGuy · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Noctua NH-U9S Premium Quality Quiet CPU Cooler https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00TBHYYFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tTOIBbWZM0VMS

I would get this if my case was small.

u/Head_Cockswain · 3 pointsr/pcmods

If you want a shroud, you could always fabricate one. 3 flat surfaces is a world of difference to painting fans. A million ways you could make a shroud and fasten it into place.

3d print as someone mentioned, cut from an existing piece of plastic or metal, re-shape from sheeting of various materials, etc etc.

One novel thing you could do is use a block of wood or a thicker plastic chunk for the top, drill holes exactly where the heat pipes come up and use those to fasten(making sure to not block any screw access holes so you'd have what looks like one access hole and a divot at the back). Hot glue or epoxy in the pipe-holes, and you don't have to worry about clips or bands or zipties to fasten it to fins(or damaging said fins).

>>Disclaimer: Fan/heatsink shrouds can mess with air-flow in counter-intuitive ways. Sometimes the engineers really do know what they were doing...

>>You can jury rig with card-stock or similar cheap materials and tape to test temps before you decide on a final design or if it's worth doing at all.

>>I've done this with case fans as well as making my own shrouds, and the temp differences can sometimes be improved, or very much decreased, depending on specifics.

____

Those covers are for a completely different size/shape heat-sink.

Cromax:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-HC4-chromax-white-heatsink-NH-D15S/dp/B076575LND

For cooler:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

Thinner 140mm wide heatsinks (2x)


Your cooler:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U9S-Premium-Quality-Cooler/dp/B00TBHYYFK

A single fat 95mmx95mm heatsink.


At which point, you're modding the fuck out of them, may as well start from scratch in true maker fashion, from the ground up for your specific need.



Painting the top of the cooler would be easy and not affect performance much, if any, slide some sheets of paper in underneath the topmost layer(no need to paint the whole thing, imo) for over-spray, spray lightly, don't drench anything, let dry even if it's not complete, repeat as necessary. Ten "too thin" coats adds up to a better finish than 1 complete coat with runs and globs and dried in wrinkles....If you miss a spot, hit it next time, repeat. Patience is a god-send when painting. (All that provided you've completely removed the cooler, otherwise you'd need a lot more than just a sheet of paper for overspray.)


I wouldn't paint the fan blades. It can be done, but it can be done very badly and mess with balance or even airflow, not to mention if you ever touch them by accident or something, even when not running, say if you're wiping dust off or moving/removing to replace cooling paste, etc, it could flake off because fan blades are a bit flexible usually.

Fans are the one thing I wouldn't mod, unless you're talking about painting the exterior frame only or you seriously know what you're doing.

u/NFX45 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have a MiniITX build in the Hadron Air.

AsRock H97 Mobo

Intel i7 - 4770K - stock speeds

Noctua NH-U9S with additional fan

Zotac GTX 1060 6GB

16GB of DDR3 RAM

Western Digital 1TB Black Edition

250 GB Samsung 850 EVO

--------------------------------------

MODIFICATIONS:
I removed the HDD cage (you have to drill out the rivets) because the HDD cage is massive, and takes up a lot of space. With the HDD cage removed I have the HDD mounted vertically with the drive screws along the left side. I have my SSD double stick taped to the HDD.

Also with the HDD cage removed, I was able to add a 120mm fan to the front of the case, which greatly improves cooling for this tiny case. (Also have to remove the front plastic panel, you can put foam spacers to grant airflow while retaining this, but I just keep it off)

I just went to a three day LAN, so the room was hot, and the CPU hit a max of 45C and the GPU 60C. At home it idles around 25C and 30C or so.

----------------------------

Total Fans: 8 Fans (CPU: 2, GPU: 2, PSU: 1, Case: 3)



Ask any questions you want if you have them.

u/DZCreeper · 3 pointsr/overclocking

Measure the stock pad thickness and buy accordingly. A thicker pad with a higher thermal conductivity is equal to a worse pad that is thin. Fujipoly pads are best but quite expensive.

The one you linked is only 3x3cm. You need them to be thin and long for the VRM.

https://www.amazon.es/Arctic-Thermal-Pad-Conductividad-Especialmente/dp/B00UYTTMNI

I use those pads and cut them to the sizes I need. Only about 60% as good Fujipoly but much cheaper.

u/ZekeSulastin · 3 pointsr/Amd

I know you already bought, but for other threadgoers I've been looking at one of these for my R7-2700 half for its performance and half for the name alone https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermalright-Grand-Macho-Processor-Cooler/dp/B01BCLXO7Q/ - it's even a hair quieter than the NH-D15. The aesthetics may fit your taste better too - black and white instead of beige and brown, and it will not cover your (RGB?) RAM should you have any.

(Heck, it's rated for a 95 W TDP without the fan. Great for a stock 2700 ...)

u/PomfersVS · 3 pointsr/Amd

You want cheap?

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Motherboard-Addressable-Universal-CL-P065-AL12SW/dp/B06X9Q1K88/

This is what I use on my 1700. At stock speeds, this is silent, the fan spins at a maximum of 600 rpm. At 3.8GHz, it was still very quiet.

$25 makes this one of the cheapest heatsinks out there. It utilizes the stock heatsink mounting bracket, so you don't have to deal with screwing in a separate plate, you just press the clips down around the hooks and that's it, one of the simplest and easiest installs. The fan clips are designed so that you can mount pretty much any 120mm fan that's 25mm thick. A lot of other heatsinks have issues with their fan clips mounting fans that have ribs or whatnot. If its original fan begins to die on you, you can replace it with a much nicer one. This heatsink's fan clips can for example mount a Noiseblocker Multiframe, or a Gentle Typhoon.

Other more expensive heatsinks are better, but diminishing returns ramps extremely fast past $20. The $60 Noctua is better than this, but for the same noise level, you'd probably only get maybe an extra 100MHz overclock.

u/TheBigKaboom · 3 pointsr/CanadianHardwareSwap

why bother risking, I ordered the Cooler master Hyper 212 RGB. Looks good.

u/BrewingHeavyWeather · 2 pointsr/buildapc

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ThermalRight-True-Spirit-140-Direct/dp/B01MQCK1PJ

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-U12S-Premium-Cooler-NF-F12/dp/B00C9EYVGY/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MC8CRVZ

I'm sure I'm missing some, as a 'murrican, but all of those will do the job well. The Thermalright is probably the best cooler of them for overclocking, the Noctua a bit more convenient (in terms of packaging, and they usually include a few fan accessories) and very close, while the Arctic Cooling one is a value option that will get the job done. If you're not planning on overclocking, the cheaper Arctic Cooling one will be every bit as good as either of the other two (and if you don't like the aesthetics, they sell a few different variants that are mainly different in colors).

I think a HEDT 5th gen should be compatible out of the box, but before you order, do verify that the cooler claims compatibility with your socket.

u/verbete · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

OP, I've been watching this for awhile now and would plug the trigger on buying it instantly if it was around $30.00 or so:

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MJGNJB3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

​

Looking to OC my 2600 I just got last month and still running the stock cooler.

​

Thanks!

u/PiercingHeavens · 2 pointsr/Amd

Arctic Freezer 34 Esports Duo. There has not been a single ebad review for this cooler. On par with $80 Coolers.

ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO - Tower CPU Cooler with Push-Pull Configuration, Wide Range of Regulation 200 to 2100 RPM, Includes 2 Low Noise PWM 120 mm Fans - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MJGNJB3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7a7nDb7TB6ZGS

u/Harlodchiang · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I would look for a good air cooler, as 120mm AIOs are easily beaten by them.

I recommend this Arctic one with 2 fans, or one of you're worried about clearance.

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-Esports-ONE-Processor/dp/B07MC8CRVZ

u/CherryBlossomStorm · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/ScubaSteve7886 · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/groot4lyfe · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I don't recognize the cooler in the pic, but the 212 EVO RGB Black Edition is very close and an all-around solid choice.

u/Lain_Ken · 2 pointsr/intel

Deepcool Gammaxx 400 GT: You have a lot of color options from them but also perform really good for it's price.

Artic Freezer 34 eSports DUO: You might like it's looks a bit more while being $5~ more expensive.

u/m00nyoze · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'm in a similar boat as you. The Spire is a great stock cooler even with minimal overclocking. The Stealth is just not up to par. But those 7 series come with the pretty Prism!

All that said, a Hyper 212 RGB Black is only $40 on Amazon.

u/SpongederpSquarefap · 2 pointsr/buildapc
  • Do you really want or need water cooling? Stick with the Kraken if you want water cooling, otherwise go with the Cooler Master Hyper TX3 for air cooling
  • You can save about ~£18 on the PSU if you drop it to the Corsair CX 600 since it's about ~£50
  • I'm going to assume that monitor is 1080p, if so, Amazon has the BenQ 24" 1080p monitor for ~£110. I've used a few of them and it's an excellent monitor

    Besides that, it will be a great build. I can't wait until I get my 980.
u/HugeName · 2 pointsr/buildapc

oops Sorry! http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cooler-Master-Hyper-TX3-Tower/dp/B005HIRDUA/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1414169669&sr=1-1&keywords=Cooler+Master+Hyper+TX3+Evo+Tower+Cooler+for+CPU

that is the one i was thinking of getting.

i checked out the zalman 10x it seems very wide im pretty limited for space unfortuntally

u/x256 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

How good would this cooler fare for overclocking a 6700k?

https://www.amazon.ca/noctua-NH-U9B-SE2-Noctua/dp/B0065SFEE8/ref=pd_cp_147_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SMR93HQZFD5KMACJ8CH8

Is it even worth it to pay the premium as opposed to going for a 212 EVO?

u/morepandas · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Here's a decent Noctua Cooler

Since you don't seem to need much cooling, you could also go for the slimline noctua cooler that is a bit cheaper as well.

u/TechnicallyNerd · 2 pointsr/intel

DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 400
Should match the performance of a hyper 212, and it's about $10 cheaper.

u/MotokoV · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Though i dont recommand any intel stock cpu now , but a cooler like this,4 heatpipes can handle 125w cpu, even if you oc your 7600k.
or you can get a 6 heatpipe one which can handle 7700K

u/cleronfx · 2 pointsr/bapcsalesgermany

without ref link

next price : 56,99€ + shipping

u/Cynically-Insane · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I HAVE A SOLUTION GOD BLESS AMAZON.USA AND MYUS.COM

nevermind

EDIT: Omg yes i found an even hotter looking cooler! - Link

u/Lord_snugglefin · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I would recommend this for a cooler: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HPX7IKU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Its very quiet and keep and it keep my CPU very cool

u/Shoboni · 2 pointsr/nvidia

The Hyper 212 clone in my system (Deepcool Gammaxx) is actually pretty cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GAMMAXX-400-Blue-Compatible/dp/B00JQ2YDCY

u/gurren_mk2 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Superpickle18 · 2 pointsr/computers

> (ik i should of went with a i3)

because an i3 is worse than the 8320?

if you want it to be quieter... than replace it with a after market heatsink.. something like this https://smile.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-HT2-28PK-R1-Hyper-Heatpipes/dp/B00K7809O2/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1517463671&sr=1-4&keywords=am3%2B+heatsink

EDIT: I assume you cleaned the dust from the heatsinks

u/gilbaoran · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-T2-Heatpipes/dp/B00K7809O2

This is what google gives me, it seems that this also has a rebate going on, making it $9.99

u/boonstyle_ · 2 pointsr/computers

by cooler i mean the whole thing which is the heatspreader + the fan mounted to it. if you got something like this https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTsjphLeUGOajYWQrmlc8U0GkZGYoYBUTrAxvxIWDEgXd-Zm5NJ6w then you have a stock cooler. if your 2600 is a non k i would suggest you to get a more efficient cooler which will also be much quiter. as you cannot overclock non-k properly i recommend to get some entry level which will be far sufficient to reduce your heat under load to the 50-60s and also be much less noisy. https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-A11-Installation-Professional/dp/B00HO9P0J6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1506582552&sr=8-7&keywords=arctic+cpu or https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-T2-Heatpipes/dp/B00K7809O2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1506582571&sr=8-4&keywords=master+cooler+cpu or https://www.amazon.com/Scythe-SCKTN-4000-KATANA-Cooler-Socket/dp/B01E57PPR6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1506582518&sr=8-2&keywords=scythe+katana will all be much better than the stock cooler.

u/Suinolat · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I have a heat issue. Build specs:

  • MSI 970 GAMING ATX AMD Motherboard
  • Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 2133 MHz
  • EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0
  • AMD FD8350FRHKBOX FX-8350 Processor
  • Corsair CS Series 750 Watt ATX CS750M
  • Cooler Master Hyper T2

    Idle temperatures were 44° C with the stock cooler so I replaced it with the T2. The case purchased didn't allow a T4 to fit in it - it was about half an inch too high.

    With the T2 idle temperatures dropped to 26° C while the cores are running @ 1400 Mhz.

    No overclocking has been left in place; it was accidentally enabled for a short period. However, when my son starts playing games he finds himself at 76° C and the thermal protection kicks in, locking the box up.

    I made sure to remove the plastic on the bottom of the T2, where contact is made between the cooler pipes and the CPU. I made sure to evenly spread the thermal paste over the chip. I've ensured that the cooler is tightly clamped to the CPU.

    Now this board has an "OC Genie" and he did activate it, however, I uninstalled the software overclocker (MSI Command Center) and turned off the OC Genie in the BIOS. I reset the power supply levels to default, as well as anything else I could find in the BIOS. (I don't do overclocking at this point in my life. If I want a 5% boost in speed, I pay for it.)

    There are two fans on the case, one on the front and one on the back. The computer is currently in a corner area with little to no ventilation, so that's the next thing we're changing. However, I thought it might be useful to ask for advice from all of you.

    Any advice on what I can do to help cool this thing? I know AMDs tend to run much hotter than Intels, but this seems ridiculous. In general I see acceptable ranges of 20° C to 60° C. Would you guys agree that's an acceptable range?

    If necessary we can buy a new case and put the T4, or whatever recommended cooler is there, on the PC.

    Thanks.
u/Ssloan38 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Did you buy this computer in Sweden or the Netherlands? this was the only reference I could find anywhere. I think the board is in the H61 series. The model number on the sticker K5130-NR009S seems to have a special board not listed on Asus site.

As the aforementioned comments said you can use any 1155 cooler to replace the one that broke. If you're strapped on cash this is a good option.

u/tamarockstar · 2 pointsr/buildapc

One of the most overlooked coolers imo is the Cooler Master 612 Version 2. It has 6 heat pipes, large fin array, direct heat pipe contact, offset design that doesn't block RAM slots, is $3 more than the H7 and cools better. No one ever buys it. So the price is pretty low.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJSFR7Y/?tag=pcpapi-20

u/Anusman_ · 2 pointsr/Amd

First i had an evo 212, but now i'm on the 612. It's delidded so that helped a lot, but it's a rare chip--it hits 4.7 w/ only around 1.27v. With that said, it gets close to 90c running p95 so it probably isn't totally stable. Good enough for gaming though! I could dial it back and leave it on 4.6 for 24/7, but i have the budget for a new build so i'm trying to speed up its demise :D I thought about water cooling as a fun project, but frankly i'm not very good with my hands so i don't trust myself to not fuck it up :(

u/goblinrum · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Also for about $50 dollars there's also the Thermalright Macho Rev B

link

performs slightly better, to my knowledge, and probably has better clearance

u/podboi · 2 pointsr/buildapc

It's not specifically mentioned in the products page of their site, even on amazon it's only up to AM3+ so it's likely to be a separate purchase (AM4 mounts / brackets).

Luckily they have it on Amazon too, the mounting kit I mean.

u/MotoXSteve · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Updated imgur with some more pics.

For the M1, I put together a CAD oriented machine for my friend who's in college for that stuff. 7700K, 32GB Vengeance 3200,ASUS ROG STRIX Z270I, Samsung 500GB M.2, and a FirePro W5100 (which was a breeze to fit hah.) I threw on an extra Vardar T-3 120mm fan to try and keep up with the 7700K. [Edit] Because information: Has Noctua Dual Tower CPU Cooler (92mm fan) and another 92 on the back exhaust. I couldn't fit the Vardar above the tower so only put 1 on. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QCEWTAW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also threw in a pic of my progress on building a good race sim thus far. Thrustmaster Wheel, H-Shifter, and 3 pedals. "OpenWheeler" Chair/Frame thing (only recommend if you have to move it all the time.) Oh and an Oculus Rift :D Racing Sims are amazing in VR. Can't wait for more pixels.

u/darkbarf · 2 pointsr/techsupport

make sure your fans on cpu case and gpu are clean and spinning
also make sure your voltages aren't neccesarily to high.

i am biased but you should seriously consider a corsair water cooler such as

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=psdc_3015422011_t1_B019EXSSBG

or
Noctua NH-U9S Premium Quality Quiet CPU Cooler
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TBHYYFK/ref=psdc_11036281_t3_B002VKVZ1A

u/Xaib · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Noctua fans might do the job!

Here's one at $50, and here's one a bit pricer at $80. They should both fit your clearance height and I've heard nothing but good things about how quiet and effective they are

u/theeagle1 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've got the same cpu. Here's what I'm using. Great cooler. It's not super big and if you ever do want to OC a little you'd be good.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U9S-Premium-Quality-Cooler/dp/B00TBHYYFK

u/speedshift217 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Noctua NH-U9S, Premium CPU Cooler with NF-A9 92mm Fan (Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TBHYYFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6wiYCb9J1PK95

I got this cooler, it works well. I also got an additional fan for intake on the other side of the cooler. I'm sure the stock cooler works, but I wanted to be sure I would get the best performance, and not have to swap coolers later and worry about replacing thermal paste.

u/joflashstudios · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Not normally, no.

With that case, pretty much anything should fit. I'm personally running a 6600k @ 4.5 GHz topped out around 50 C under a NH-U9S. Noctua is pretty solid. If you want cheaper, the 212 EVO is pretty much universally acclaimed for its price point.

u/mattheww · 2 pointsr/homelab

You're probably better off building around the NATEX combo. This used to be just under $500, but $608 currently for: http://www.natex.us/Intel-S2600CP-Motherboard-Package-Deal-p/intel-s2600cp2j-128gb.htm

u/SolfenTheDragon · 2 pointsr/razer

Basically, the gist is that if theres a thermal pad in there when you open it, there needs to be one there when you close it. The Die on the GPU and CPU are quite a bit smaller than on a desktop. Basically, use a half pea sized blob of paste on the CPU and a little bit more on the GPU. They only touch the heatsink in that one area. The thermal pads are for the VRMs and the GPU memory, so remember to replace any pads that you find when you open it up.

These are my go to thermal pads:

https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Thermal-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTMNI

also these are made to be cut, so make them the right size when you apply them. Sometimes I make them slightly larger, but thats just me.

u/poonedundies · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

Just so you are aware it may not be beneficial to sell some of this stuff to anyone in the US for either party.

The Dan a4 brand new is about $228 after conversion of pounds to dollars shipped to the US. Takes about 3 days.

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/dan-cases-a4-sfx-v4-mini-itx-gaming-case-black-ca-006-da.html

The nh-l9x65 is brand new for $49.99 (w/o tax for me) w/free shipping on amazon. Even though yours is basically new as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-L9x65-Premium-Low-Profile-Cooler/dp/B00VB3Y89E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=noctua+nh-l9x65&qid=1563371600&s=gateway&sprefix=noctua+nh-l9&sr=8-3

u/nineq · 2 pointsr/buildapc

> I've been using the stock intel CPU cooler and am not comfortable with the CPU being above 70C for hours on end

This is acceptable for Haswell. They'll go up to 80C before it gets dangerous.

>and the GPU runs at 75-80C

GPUs run hot. This is also a normal temperature.

>https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Premium-Cooler_-Cooling-NH-L9x65/dp/B00VB3Y89E/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1468228085&sr=8-10&keywords=noctua

The fan is replaceable. You see those metal clips on the side? They're not soldered on or anything.

>and would a water cooler like Corsair H80i be a viable option given that the radiator and fan for it would become the only fan (exhaust) in the entire system?

It'll be a tight fit. Really tight.

>How should I go about cooling down my PC given its limited space?

I'd prefer the Noctua, but I am very adverse to putting water near my cases.

u/Subzer013 · 2 pointsr/okc

So you can use the fan that comes with the case or.... grab one of these whichever catches your eye.


Noctua NH-U12S - Premium CPU Cooler with NF-F12 120mm Fan (Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C9EYVGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lstIDbNAN6J5X


Cooler Master RR-212S-20PK-R1 Hyper 212 Black Edition CPU Air Cooler 4 Direct Contact Heat pipes 120mm Silencio Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25DYM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sttIDb4SDN6PP

You’ll have to add that to your pc build on pc parts picker to verify it fits your cpu base (AM4) and fits your case also. They have low profile ones like above here also


Noctua NH-L9x65, 65mm Premium Low-Profile CPU Cooler (Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VB3Y89E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5utIDb725S0DG

u/metroidgus · 2 pointsr/Amd

also for the cooler the NH-L9x65 performs much better for only 10 more

u/Thatisdifficult · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The Toshiba P300s are much higher quality HDDs with better reviews. I'd aim for those instead. I usually wait for them to go on sale. But hey, Western Digital is always a safe choice.

The Noctua NH-D15 is one of the best coolers on the market, I'd personally get it, but I understand that many favor aesthetics over pure performance. There's also the V8 GTS, the Le Grande Macho (funny name, strong cooler), the MasterAir Maker 8, the Scythe FUMA packs a bang for the buck (you could switch out the fans for LED fans), or maybe you'd like to try an AIO cooler?

If you want to see if that $70 Cooler Master CPU Cooler is worth pairing with the i7 8700K, how about filtering the reviews and seeing what you get?

u/whomad1215 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Top end air coolers are still under that 161mm clearance, it's just super close.

Noctua d15 and Thermalright macho will both fit, and are two of the best available.

thermalright review, amazon link

u/Spyzilla · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The Le Grand Macho RT cools identically to the NH-D15, but at a lower volume. I personally went with the Macho X2 (a macho RT with 2 fans) because it should slightly outperform both the NH-D15 and Dark Rock Pro 4

u/b-macc · 2 pointsr/intel

Went from a 6700k @ 4.6 to the 9700k @ 5.0 all core, My sample isn't quite as good as others and needs right around 1.312V to get 5.0 all core from the stock 4.6. Games feel a smoother than than 6700k but I have no objective data to backup that claim. I carried my DDR4 3000 over from skylake and use a 1080 ti as well.

I'm using a Le Grand Macho RT air cooler and temps when gaming are very reasonable, 40-60s depending on the load. Stress tests (XTU, Prime95 Blend, Cinebench, etc.) can vary from high 70s to high 90s depending on which test it is, though I do run my fans at lower RPMs for less noise, this is at 1.312V. This is with the z370 taichi from asrock in a Fractal Design Define S with 2x 140 Noctua in the front and a stock 140 case fan in the rear, RPMs usually around 700-800 depending on temps.

A big RAD or custom loop will problem get you better temps but I have zero desire to mess with water cooling at all. Honestly I might still to try and pickup a 9900k and leave it at or neat stock and rock it for the foreseeable future.

https://www.amazon.com/Grand-Macho-RT-fan-TY-147B/dp/B01BCLXO7Q

u/relevant_pet_bug · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yes the SSD, and the cooler.

Better cooler, less ugly for a few bucks cheaper.

SSD. That is an ancient model of SSD. You can get a 1 TB SSD for near that price. This one is cheaper and newer.

u/ruinedxistenz · 2 pointsr/intel

Thermalright Le Grande Macho RT. Best air cooler you can buy, better than many AIOs:

Le Grand Macho RT (with fan TY-147B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BCLXO7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JN1ZDbJNKG47M

u/curumba · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have the 1700x @3.8 with this cooler
https://www.amazon.de/Thermalright-Le-Grand-Macho-RT/dp/B01BCLXO7Q
And it hits almost 90 degrees in stress tests

u/ChaosRevealed · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Just as an update - The Le Grand Macho RT is in stock on Amazon right now, sold by Nan's Gaming Gear.

https://www.amazon.com/Grand-Macho-fan-TY-147B/dp/B01BCLXO7Q

It's named differently, but mine came in the Le Grand Macho RT packaging. The TY-147B is the same as the one paired with the RT and the heatsink is identical.

Also, this thing is HUGE and is a BEAST. Fans at full speed is quieter than my HDDs, and I don't think I've seen my temps go over 50C yet. Time to ramp up my OCs again

u/randobilau · 2 pointsr/Amd

I would suggest a tower style air cooler in the $30-$40 range. They are the most reliable and simplest solution, and offers the most value for your money. There's quite a lot of options:

bq! Pure Rock Slim $30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVNCEIG/

​

CM Hyper 212 EVO $35 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/

​

CM Hyper 212 Black $37 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25DYM3/

​

Arctic Freezer 34 $34 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQ9MQ5M/

​

Enermax ETS-TF40F $36 https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16835214064

​

There's like a half dozen more options, these are some highlights looking at the current cooler prices on pcpartpicker.

u/canned_pho · 2 pointsr/overclocking

Something like this noctua: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-D9L-Premium-Cooler-NF-A9/dp/B00PIPCFX2/

If you're looking for something small-ish but still powerful and quiet.

Noctua is pretty expensive though lol.

BeQuiet coolers are quiet and a bit cheaper: https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUIET-BK008-Heatsink-Intel-Sockets/dp/B00HPXZF2I/

Cheap 20 pounds Bequiet 3-heatpipe 92mm small heatsink, If you just want 4GHz and not more: https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUIET-BK008-Heatsink-Intel-Sockets/dp/B01KVNCEIG/

Can handle up to 1.33v~ ish maybe.

u/mrz_ · 2 pointsr/de

>CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600X

Hab ich auch, läuft super!

>Mainboard: MSI B350M PRO-VDH

Kann ich auch nur empfehlen

Lüfter:

Kommt darauf an, wie wichtig dir ein leiser Lüfter ist. Wie wäre es damit, von BeQuiet - BK008 Prozessorlüfter?
Der Standardlüfter, der bei dem Prozessor dabei ist, ist meiner Meinung nach Schrott. Klar, er tut seine Arbeit, ist aber viel zu laut!

Schau für eine Grafikkarte mal bei Ebay Kleinanzeigen nach einer GTX 970. Wird nicht mehr hergestellt, wird aber öfter noch verkauft, weil sich die meisten jetzt eine 1060 holen (oder später die 20er)

Für 100€ (am besten mit noch laufender Garantie) findet man da was.

u/rainmak3r3 · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

Hello! Welcome to the community. So:

  1. Usually i5 cpus are low temperature processors. They are very hard to get hot. I would recommend a simple one like this :
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01KVNCEIG/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1519481888&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Cpu+cooler

  2. Your build seems OK to get MacOS working. Wi-Fi is impossible to get working though because Apple only uses a couple of chips for MacOS so you will need a wifi card. Read more here : https://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/pastrychefs-asus-rog-strix-z370-g-gaming-wi-fi-ac-build-w-i7-8700k-gtx-1080.239969/
u/chillywilly29 · 2 pointsr/pcgamingtechsupport

So, for $973 here is the list of components you can actually buy:

cooler, which is optional

motherboard

Cpu

Ram

Gpu

hard drive

case

PSU

I did what I could to save where I could and allocate elsewhere. You won't need to upgrade too soon from this moving forward. If you'd rather go cheaper I can help with that as well.

u/sharksandwich81 · 2 pointsr/Amd

Sure thing! I’m using an NH-12 like this one Noctua NH-U12S SE-AM4 Premium-Grade 120mm Tower CPU Cooler for AMD AM4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X2YYN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_10fuDbDV16QJF

But really any decent tower-type cooler with a 120mm or bigger fan will be more than enough to keep your CPU cool. Preferably one that uses a standard case fan so that down the road you can replace it or add a second fan if you want.

u/OC2k16 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Also you can look at other air coolers. I was looking and it seems a lot of them do not come with a compatible bracket, and the ones that do are a bit more expensive than something like a 212 and ordered bracket.

Something like this

Anything like that or the 212 with AM4 bracket would be an improvement over stock cooler for sure!

u/Jayden933 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Seems like a little overkill if he's not overclocking. I think /u/gyossaits would be fine with something like this

u/ironfixxxer · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Thermaltake Contac Silent 12

Cryorig H7

Those would work and direct the air out of the back instead of up. You can fit up to a 160mm cooler in your case. Both of those are shorter than that.

u/Broadbanned · 2 pointsr/Amd

Love the MSI B450M Titanium, I'm on the older B350M Mortar Arctic with a 3600X and Scythe FUMA cooler now. They did the same thing with the "Beta" BIOS update for my board, no date or version change, but different date/time stamps on the compressed directory and .AKM update file from when it was released and today.

u/Vite1503 · 2 pointsr/sffpc
  1. Yeah they're temporary, these brown anti-vibration mounts are given to you when you buy Noctua fans. They don't give you normal screws. They look like this: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71hWsykAXvL._SL1500_.jpg
  2. I am from UK so I got it from amazon.co.uk. Ordered on 15th July, delivered 2 days later. If you are buying from different shop it might be under a different name (Scythe 56500, or scfm-1100). Remember to get version 1100/Rev B, not 1000.https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scythe-56500-Heatsink-CPU-Black/dp/B071XCCM7V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Scythe+56500&qid=1564179222&s=computers&sr=1-3
  3. No, I did not need to buy it separately. It was included with scythe as well.
u/Zodiac____ · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/ALDnD-WTP · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/SolidBladez · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Scythe FUMA or Mugen 5.

Edit: Just realized you said $50 CAD. My bad.

u/UsePreparationH · 1 pointr/Amd

I think the Scythe Fuma is slightly better but the trade of is really compatibility and maybe slightly more noise. You can also look at the Thermalright Macho (the $50 one).



https://www.techpowerup.com/review/thermalright-macho-revb/9.html

https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-814256001052-Macho-Rev-B/dp/B00PKJ21LW/

u/Serio- · 1 pointr/buildapc

Will my Macho Rev. B fit my NZXT500? I assume so because on the website it says the NZXT 500 clearance is up to 165mm and the fan says the height is 162mm but was just wanting to make sure I'm not overlooking anything.

u/BrkoenEngilsh · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I would pick up the thermalright macho over that cooler. That noctua is pretty outdated.

u/Wizard_Alien · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm having trouble finding a UK supplier for the Le Grand Macho RT. Could take longer than a week to arrive.

How does this compare to the D15 https://www.amazon.co.uk/ThermalRight-814256001052-Thermalright-Cooling-Device/dp/B00PKJ21LW?

u/gobiasomecoffee · 1 pointr/GAAB350

Thermalright Macho Rev. B is what I have on mine. Fits perfectly and was surprisingly easy to install.

20°C @ Idle & rarely goes above 50°C during gaming with a 3.8 OC @1.3V.

u/noiserr · 1 pointr/Amd

Wraith Spire should work fine, there is no need to overclock a 1800x anyways.

NZXT Kraken and Corsair H100 v2 are both nice, if tad bit overkill if you're not OCing (which on 1800x you don't need to do really as I mentioned). Just check and make sure, I think you have to contact NZXT and Corsair directly to get the separate AM4 bracket for both of those.

I personally went AIR this time, Noctua D15, because it was the first one to support AM4.. it's a giant cooler, and it works really nice, although a bit pricey.

Another option people have been raving about is this Thermalright Macho Rev B:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-814256001052-Macho-Rev-B/dp/B00PKJ21LW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491880702&sr=8-1&keywords=Thermalright+Macho+Rev+B

If I were doing it again I would have been deciding between the two, the Noctua and the Macho Rev B.

u/UnplannedWords · 1 pointr/buildapc

You seem to be throwing money at this build (A $200+ motherboard for a build you aren't going to overclock?) but going very cheap on the cooler. The 212 will be adequate but I would steer you to this, it is easier to mount that the 212, cools close to as well as that AIO, and is only $50.

u/cresend · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Thermalright Macho

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PKJ21LW/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_2_w

Its a heatsink that started its development as a passive cooler, but it does amazing with a fan. And because of its passive design, it doesn't require a ton of airflow. Meaning the fan can be run slow and quiet.

u/brucethem00se · 1 pointr/buildapc

How about a middle of the road approach?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00PKJ21LW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451746381&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=thermalright+macho&dpPl=1&dpID=51wh1n0AOIL&ref=plSrch

Just spend £10 more for a much better cooler than the 212 EVO.

You could put that £20+ you save towards a an Asus Strix or Zotac Amp 980 TI, which would cut down on noise.

u/Grizzled--Kinda · 1 pointr/buildapc

I like noctua for the quality and great cooling, they are ugly though. You can get a great cooler like this Noctua Dual Tower CPU Cooler for Intel LGA 2011-0/LGA 2011-3 Square ILM/1156/1155/1150 and AMD AM2/AM2+/AM3/3+,FM1/2 NH-D9L which you could attach a second fan on the intake side for more cooling, also it pushes air across your mobo which I like. There are smaller low profile ones on amazon that lay flat.

u/Ibuildempcs · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you do care about cpu cooler noise then I would probably get a mid-range noctua:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QCEWTAW/?tag=pcpapi-20

u/snuggy4life · 1 pointr/PcBuild

You might just try the built in cooler and only upgrade if it’s throttling/causing you performance issues.

  1. Noctua NH-D9L, Premium CPU Cooler with NF-A9 92mm Fan (Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QCEWTAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vcOmDbHJQZWHG

  2. Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WdOmDbBJG6SA3
u/WastedEmu · 1 pointr/unRAID

The only thing I’m not sure about, is if that cooler will be too tall for either of those cases. When I was looking in to coolers for my Rosewill 4u case, I settled on the Noctua NH-D9L


There isn’t any specific hardware that is needed other than a USB drive.

u/dstanton · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Leaning towards the Nh-U9L with a swapped for white PWM fan

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooler-2011-0-2011-3-NH-D9L/dp/B00QCEWTAW

its been shown to cool a 4790k at 4.5ghz to under 80c with a single fan and can keep up with its big brother the NH-D15 with 3 fans.

As amazing at the AIOs can look I am still simply too uneasy about putting liquid in my system if I didn't build it myself and I simply don't have the budget for a custom loop.

u/timothygraham · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

How would the Noctua NH-D9L do for overclocking with this set up? It’s a little smaller and only has one fan but the reviews seem good and I like the way it looks better.

Noctua NHD9L

u/philbobagginzz · 1 pointr/sffpc

Do you have a single or two fan GPU? My single fan GTX 1060 never gets above 70°C. I have this fan on the bottom with a dust filter, for intake to cool the GPU. And I'm using the NH-D9L for the CPU, with a NF-A9 fan on the back of the case directly behind the CPU cooler, pushing air out the back.

u/ChiliAndDonuts911 · 1 pointr/buildapc

So your D14 was good enough to allow for a good OC? Also, when I said dual tower I was referring to this one. Do you think that would work well enough or should I choose between the Phanteks TC14Pe and D14/D15 dual towers?

u/KingNovember6174 · 1 pointr/buildapc

That cooler is really nice quality, can also look at this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TBHYYFK/ref=psdc_11036281_t3_B00QCEWTAW

I have had your same exact setup before. Same mobo, I overclocked my fx-8350 though. Get another 8GB of DDR3 RAM to run in dual channel, the CPU will run much better! The motherboard hates 4 sticks of RAM and memory controller is such utter garbage. So only use two ram sticks.

Read your motherboard manual. There is a PDF of it on the MSI website under support for your motherboard. very easy to find. Yes, you will put it on 2nd and 4th slots.

Your CPU will love you with a better cooler, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XJMQDUM/ref=twister_B06ZZ1T1KL?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You want to get a minimum TDP of 150W cooler.

The VRM gets super damn hot with that motherboard, its great to have air flowing over the entire board. You can get than with heatsinks that blows air down like the be quiet one that I had linked. If you have case fans that can blow air over the MSI motherboards heatsinks fine then you will do aliright.

That GPU will gelp you alot, and do just fine. Any GTX 1060 6GB.

Good luck.


u/an-amusing-username · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

After an agonizing research process of trying to find a CPU cooler that was strong enough for my i7-7700k and small enough for my case, I've narrowed it down to these two. Can anyone recommend one or the other?

Noctua NH-U9S: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U9S-Premium-Quality-Cooler/dp/B00TBHYYFK/

Cooler Master Geminii M5 LED: https://www.amazon.com/tekit-Cooler-Master-GeminII-LED/dp/B0785GCTQ1

u/arse_full_of_farts · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thanks! I found this one but I have a potentially very stupid question. I am finding a lot of coolers that don't specifically have LGA 1151 listed. Will those still be compatible with my LGA 1151 motherboard?

u/nothingthrowaway123 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I was looking at the larger version but was worried it wouldn't fit.

u/cavortingwebeasties · 1 pointr/sffpc

My friend's Cougar has the fans set up similar to how u/PhattyR6 suggests (two 120mm intakes under the gpu but one rear exhaust vs top) along with a Noctua NH-U9S and his machine is nearly silent under heavy load. By using the 120mm fan in the rear for exhaust, it is almost like running two fans on the Noctua tower cooler as they are nearly directly in-line with each other (like a wind tunnel) so is very effective.

u/Superduder · 1 pointr/buildapc

Maybe try one of this or this for a still decent but cheap cooler or you could just straight up by a NHD-15 ;)

u/oyokattz · 1 pointr/sffpc

Looking at exactly the same combo with the ncase m1 - ordered the 2080 Ti, waiting for the 9900k + a mini-itx board now, but looking at going the aircooling route, most likely a noctua U9S with NF-A9s. Not planning to overclock as mostly going to be used for gaming. Hoping to get an opinion on whether an Accelero will help further lower temps, or better to stick with stock?

u/Shakermaker91 · 1 pointr/overclocking

I'm using a Noctua NH-U9S with my OC'd 8600k and it performs very well. Running at ~1.25vCore temps do not exceed 80c or so during stress testing (small FFT). Never exceed 68c or so while gaming intensively. Idles around 31-34c.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TBHYYFK/ref=psdc_11036281_t1_B0065SFEE8

u/schaufler77 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Noctua NH-U9S, Premium CPU Kühler mit NF-A9 92mm Lüfter (Braun) https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00TBHYYFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jtA4DbF3NNVR3
I bought this one now should work write ?

u/stubbornGarrett · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hey everyone,

I'm looking for a cpu cooler for my "Xeon 1231v3" in a "fractal node 804" (max. cooler height of 160mm), because the box cooler started makeing noises. It should be balanced in performance and low noise. I'm using my PC mainly for gaming and working with resource intense programs, so the CPU is under heavy load, most of the time.

My budget is around 50€ (cheaper would be nicer). I found Noctua NH-U9S to be fitting for the cpu and case, but I'm not sure if it's an overkill.

Would be grateful for any advice.

u/SCCRXER · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I used this one in my ITX build and it's been great. It's more expensive, but it fits in small places.

u/Mannymal · 1 pointr/sffpc

I just wanna say the Noctua NH-U9S is awesome. I can't believe this little 95w TDP rated cooler can punch so high above its weight.

I'm pleased to report that a delidded 8700k/ASUS ROG STRIX z370-I combo will run great at 5Ghz (3 Offset) on the NCASE M1 with a Noctua NH-U9S with a single fan, an identical NF-A9 PWM as rear exhaust (Y splitter with the NH-U9's fan into the CPU fan header), and a single 120mm Noctua high static pressure fan as intake on the side panel.

VCORE is offset to produce 1.344v under load

Ambient Temp: 24°

Motherboard Idle: 34°C

CPU Idle: 34°C

Motherboard Load: 43°C

CPU Gaming Load: 65°C average, 71°C highest logged

CPU Prime95 26.6 Load: 82°C highest logged (same with Handbrake encodes, Aida64, and Blender)

This replaced a Corsair H100i V2 that I was not comfortable with because of the high motherboard temperatures (50°C) and even VRM throttling due to lack of airflow. I traded 15°C in CPU cooling performance for an overall cooler and quieter running system and I am happy. These days I'm more concerned about VRM and overall system temperature than I am about having the lowest possible CPU temperature. As long as I reach my overclocking goal, I'm perfectly fine with CPU temperatures in the low 80°C on unrealistic stress testing. It seems in such a small case its almost a zero-sum game of trading CPU cooling for system cooling: you either keep your CPU cool, your system cool, or find a happy medium.

One observation: really hope motherboard manufacturers start taking VRM cooling more seriously. A stylized metal block is not enough, we need good proper heatsinks with fins and heat-pipes if we wanna continue overclocking high core count CPU's inside small, airflow constrained SFF cases.

u/Xerazal · 1 pointr/Amd

IIRC, the 390/x only had aftermarket coolers, so whether they had pads between the card and backplate varies. Where to buy them, I really don't know. I was looking it up years ago when I used a 290x, but didn't replace my pads.

Arctic - Thermal Pad 50 x 50 x 1.5 mm | Thermal Pad for All CPU Coolers | Efficient Thermal Conductivity | Gap Filler | Safe Handling | Easy to Apply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTMNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q3PJBbVVRNXDV

Those seem good. The reviews show people using it with a 390x, and they used the 1.5mm thickness. So I'd say go with that.

u/JBTownsend · 1 pointr/buildapc

Install the NVMe drive to the back Z270I slot.

Grab one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTMNI/

Cut it into a strip that covers the whole backside of the M.2 drive and apply it to the M.2 stick. It's not electrically conductive so feel free to be sloppy and generous.

Install motherboard to motherboard tray. The thermal pad will turn the tray into a giant heatsink for your SSD.

Also, don't use the heatsink that covers the top M.2 slot. Just leave it off unless you REALLY like how it looks. You'll get moderately lower temps with the M.2 exposed.

u/kroatia04 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I got the 50x50x1.5 which isn't enough.


Now I pushed it to +75mV, 1125mhz, 1350mhz and vrm max in Crysis 3 is 80ish

ARCTIC Thermal Pad (50 x 50 x 1.5 mm) - Silicone Based Thermal Pad with 6.0W/mK Thermal Conductivity - Flexible and Adaptive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTMNI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_H-m7wbM9CBPW7

u/Piscator629 · 1 pointr/Amd

This is what I used for the pads. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTMNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q3PJBbVVRNXDV

Have a razor hand for cutting pieces. You can buy cheap retractable at your local paint department or store.

u/steve_n_doug_boutabi · 1 pointr/razer

something like this?

what thickness is best?

u/TriStrange · 1 pointr/nvidia

The pads you linked are too thin at only 0.5mm thick. You'll need a pad that's at least 1.5mm thick, maybe even 2.0mm. The Arctic pads you linked are available in 1.5mm thickness, but not 2.0mm. For a 2.0mm pad you can order a couple of these or one of these.

u/notRubiks · 1 pointr/Dell

I meant the mosfets, sorry. If I remember correctly they're the black chips near the chokes, right?
I would be using these pads, hopefully they wouldn't cause any issues. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00UYTTMNI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1

u/steeda1974 · 1 pointr/Alienware
u/clayton_japes · 1 pointr/EVGA

Thanks for letting me know as to both points.

These should be coming tomorrow for me:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZJSZM4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTMNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't see a reference to a specific 2mm or 1.8mm thick pad on amazon and these appear to be the same pads I've seen in videos.

Sadly, one of the problems with this mod is that the whole point of it is temperatures that can't be easily monitored by software. I figure that I'll try these out and replace the pads with standard EVGA ones if I see an indication online that there's a benefit between them.

u/AladdinSnr · 1 pointr/buildapc

For a Ryzen 3700x on an ITX board, which of the following would be better for low temperatures and low noise?

Noctua NH-L9x65
Cooler Master MasterAir G100M

To note:
With the Noctua I have a little more space on the side of the case to fit a third case fan.
The Noctua website says "should be used with care on CPUs with more than 84W TDP"
CM website says " the heatsink has cooling capacity of 130W TDP"
Not a huge fan of the brown Noctua fan color, rest of the build is black and white.
The price difference is only $10 atm so I'm not taking it into consideration.

u/Drewology · 1 pointr/buildapc

As a previous NCASE owner I can tell you the H105 is overkill. Half the radiator and fan one it will be either blowing air on, or sucking air from the PSU. A single slot AIO is what you would want, but honestly you would get better performance out of something like a Noctua NH-L9x65.

u/theotherdanlynch · 1 pointr/sffpc

For air, Noctua NH-L9x65 or CRYORIG H5. For water, EVGA CLC 120.

u/sizziano · 1 pointr/buildapc

Well if you want low profile check out Noctua's low profile coolers, very good quality. For example L9x65 but you should be able to fit a regular tower cooler in there. Check out the Cryorig H7 or C7

u/BandidTwitch · 1 pointr/buildapc

So with that case it looks like you're limited to a max cooler height to 65mm, and if you use all of it up you'd be right up to the bottom of the power supply. I'm going to preface this with saying I have my doubts on keeping a 5ghz overclock cool with a cooler under 65mm, but it looks like your best options are Cryorig C7 and the noctua nh-l9 or noctua NH-L9I. The larger noctua may not fit because it maybe touching your power supply. But from what I saw in a few videos the cryorig and the smaller noctua perform similarly just that the noctua was a quieter.

u/Hyzer__Soze · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Supernova 550w GS - Used with all original cables and most of the packaging. $53 shipped via USPS priority mail (incl insurance). LMK if interested and I'll get you a timestamp or check my listing going up a little bit later.

Edit: Also have a Noctua NH-L9x65 that I could add for $30 but it might not be beefy enough for your needs.

u/Venus08 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If anyone is curious this is the fan I purchased last week.

Noctua L-Type Premium Quiet CPU Cooler_ Retail Cooling NH-L9x65 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VB3Y89E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2Mi9ybFW500X8

u/mrderrp · 1 pointr/buildapc

You think this would do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VB3Y89E/?tag=pcpapi-20

u/myfirstpcyay · 1 pointr/sffpc

Great case choice :D

I don't know what your application is for this build...but if you want to save money or deflect for another time, etc. I'd recommend just a single stick of 8GB ram (for now) - upgrading to the 16GB later. So this should drop it by ~$90.

Then I would recommend a SF450 or SF600 for your PSU - as this will open the door for future SFF builds as well. In addition to it, pick up the ATX to SFX adapter. What this will ALSO do is give you more room for your cooler to breath - if not get a bigger cooler that has better cooling capacity.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527010539&sr=8-2&keywords=atx+sfx+adapter

This looks like you could probably get another ~20mm of room.

Which should allow you to get this instead...

https://www.amazon.com/noctua-Premium-Cooler_-Cooling-NH-L9x65/dp/B00VB3Y89E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527010650&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+65

Or any cooler that's 65mm tall or less (since with an ATX PSU, your limit is 61mm. If you use an SFX PSU you'll gain ~20mm, so technically your limit is now 81mm - but of course you'll still want a gap so...).

These PSUs are $80-120. So there's that.

Otherwise, I think everything else looks good.

u/jivedinmypants · 1 pointr/buildapc

Not saying you can't put a non-stock cooler on a locked CPU, I was just saying it's not necessary.

If the sound bothers you, you can try some of the Noctua CPU coolers, though I'm not sure how much clearance you have in your case for one.

u/VVrest · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

get the Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT. Just as good as the NH-D15 (thermally), even better in terms of noise (it only has one fan), and it has no memory clearance issues AFAIK. The only thing to look up is whether it will fit in your case or not.

u/kur1j · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/JDragon · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah that mobo should be no issue at all and give you wifi as well. Good call. You'll have to switch from a m.2 SSD to a 2.5" SSD but that won't be a problem.

edit: if you have 10 extra bucks to spare, you can get the version of the Le Grand Macho with a fan: https://www.amazon.com/Grand-Macho-fan-TY-147B/dp/B01BCLXO7Q - that way if you upgrade to a more powerful processor in the future, you can just the fan onto the CPU cooler. In fact, you can install the fan anyways and just set it to minimum RPM - I have an open air case with this cooler and it's pretty much inaudible until you get past 60-70% of its RPM range.

You can also pick up extra case fans to run at minimum RPM - Noctua and Be Quiet! make excellent silent case fans. You may need a PWM splitter or controller to accommodate more fans, depending on how many PWM fan headers your motherboard has. The goal to ensure silence is to have every fan running at minimum RPM and never needing to ramp up even under load.

u/reportforafkpls · 1 pointr/Amd

Le Grand Macho RT (with fan TY-147B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BCLXO7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1a5XBbJDVDF7F

Is this the one you’re talking about?

u/5H4D0W_5P3C7R3 · 1 pointr/buildapc

That one's almost identical in performance...

Try this one? https://www.amazon.com/Grand-Macho-fan-TY-147B/dp/B01BCLXO7Q/

u/proxima_centauri · 1 pointr/overclocking

FYI, I'm seeing the Grand Macho RT on sale at Amazon for $79.99 right now
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BCLXO7Q/

I think that's the same price I got mine at in October so it might be a regular sale.

u/TwinHaelix · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I wanted to buy a Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT, but just today Amazon appears to have stopped selling them: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BCLXO7Q (used to be $79.99 with Prime shipping).

Would this be a good alternative? I was looking at the Grand Macho for its awesome performance, very low noise, and RGB RAM compatibility.

u/mysterd2006 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hi.

Still choosing components for my new build.

I want to use the i7 7820x CPU.

Someone told me to forget Noctua heatsinks / fans because they wouldn't be enough to cool the CPU down, and to choose something as the Thermalright Grand Macho RT (https://www.amazon.com/Grand-Macho-fan-TY-147B/dp/B01BCLXO7Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527616078&sr=8-1&keywords=thermalright+le+grand+macho+rt)


Didn't know that brand and Noctua documentation states some models would be able to deal with that CPU...

Any idea about the quality of the Thermalright heatsink ? Any idea about a Noctua model I could use ?
I was thinking about avoiding liquid cooling anyway...

Thanks for your help.

u/Wax42 · 1 pointr/overclocking
u/K4SHM0R3 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm using this cooler

u/ShroomiaCo · 1 pointr/buildapc

It looks like the Be Quiet Pure Rock Slim BK008 might have an easy installation like the Intel one. (Has no back bracket, has the same Intel style locks).

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK008-Pure-Rock-Slim/dp/B01KVNCEIG/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525048094&sr=1-11&keywords=cpu+cooler

If you take a look at the user guide they posted on Amazon it doesn't have a back bracket.

Idk if this is best one but from what I hear it should work with the i4770k and motherboards that use it

u/broccoli_meister · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

> The BeQuiet Pure Rock Slim I suppose ?

I linked it in a later edit, it's this one, not finding Pure Rock Slim in its name, though who knows with German translations. Thank you for the other suggestions, I'll research all options. In your opinion, do I need to look for a "high quality thermal paste" to go along?

Thanks also for the dissipation clarification, wasn't familiar with the concept. By the way HWiNFO64 is seriously amazing. After bad experience with MSI Afterburner for some stat tracking, I never imagined a program as elegant as this one existed. So what's new is that on GPU I'm reading

> Performance Limit - Utilization: max and avg yes

> Performance Limit - Reliability Voltage: max and avg yes

> Performance Limit - Thermal: max and avg yes

> GPU Temperature: max 90°C (which seems fine actually)

So maybe there's some more general airflow issues after all (I had noticed some unexpected stuttering in a low-end game, so I was inspired to check GPU stats). I'll try to go to a B&M hardware store and get some more intel with my purchases, and gotta check what my actual case fans are, but I think, like you said if a future build is a realistic possibility, that I wouldn't regret getting new PSU, CPU fan and case fans anyway.

Do you play games yourself btw? Got a favorite genre?

u/SpecifyGaming · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/Sound_0f_Silence · 1 pointr/techsupport

It's hard for me to recommend a cooler outright. Things like case & RAM clearances might be an issue and availability/price vary with location. But a quick search I found https://www.amazon.com/Quiet-BK008-Pure-Rock-Slim/dp/B01KVNCEIG/.

It's rated for 120W so it should cool well if you don't plan to overclock much. It's low cost and it has a mounting mechanism that that does not need a plate to be installed.

Just make sure the coolers dimensions will clear your case/RAM.

I would also buy some extra thermal compound just in case you need to remount. Make sure to reapply paste each time you remove a heatsink and clean off all the old paste first. 91%+ Isopropyl alcohol and a coffee filter works well for cleaning.

u/Uesugi1989 · 1 pointr/pcgaming

I will as well suggest to get a cheap and reliable chromebook to get the job done in collegue and use the rest of the money, plus the money you can get from selling the xbox one and xbox 1 games, for a decent gaming desktop. Don't go any bigger than a mid tower case though and i can recommend the zalman z9 or the z1 for such a build. I completed a build for my brother earlier this summer and we managed to fit inside a full size atx mobo, a zotac extreme 1070 ( litteraly the biggest card i have ever seen from close, massive like a brick ) and a BE QUIET cooler. The case costed 30 euros during a sale and it also came with all fan slots filled with fans and it has decent airflow as well.

A build with a used skylake or haswell i5, a zxxx mobo and 8 or 16 gigs of ram will hold you for quite a few years. A 4gb rx 470 is a great card for it's price and will last you for quite some time as well, or alteratively pick a used gtx 970 if you can find a bargain for it. Use the tv for a monitor for now, keep the xbox controller and you are set and done.

u/TheArts · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

This CPU fan is also 24% off.
be quiet! BK008 Pure Rock Slim - CPU Cooler
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVNCEIG/ref=twister_B06ZZ1T1KL?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

u/IamAlbertHofmann · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/slpngsun · 1 pointr/Noctua

You can buy the Noctua NH-U12S SE-AM4 from amazon, it comes with the AM4 mounting kit, it will work on any am4 motherboard.

u/SigmaLance · 1 pointr/Amd

That doesn't look like the correct Noctua U12S for AM4 boards.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U12S-SE-AM4-premium-grade-cooler/dp/B01N9X2YYN

You're going to love this cooler. I have it and it is awesome. Super quiet and super efficient!

Edit: I should have said one ships with the AM4 bracket and one doesn't.

u/gregz83 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If you want to try fixing the thermal paste again, use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H2-3-5g-Pro-Grade-Compound/dp/B07MXFTNZY/

If you want to get a better cooler, forget the 212, blah, get this:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U12S-SE-AM4-Premium-Grade-Cooler/dp/B01N9X2YYN/

u/xplusyequalsz · 1 pointr/buildapc

Noctua makes a few specific coolers for AM4 boards..

this
that

The 1700 is probably overkill for you, so the 1600 is an option. Also, unless you're planning on overclocking to 3.9ghz+, the stock cooler should be fine on the 1600 (not x series).

u/ScarecrowPlayboy · 1 pointr/buildapc

I just got this Noctua fan that comes with an AM4 mount. It is on the upper end of the price range, but pretty much the highest rated single fin tower fan you can get.

u/Mgk645 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Noctua has 3 models out that come with the correct mounting brackets. I bought this one for my 1700 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9X2YYN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Corsair also has 2 water coolering aio's - H110i and H100 v1 (not v2).

u/MarbledCoffeecake · 1 pointr/techsupport

No problem, and good luck! Make sure to do plenty of research before buying, there are a lot of options out there.

I personally just purchased this and I'm very happy with it.

u/DreadMcLaren · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Doesn't list one, so I'd assume no.

I'd recommend the Noctua NH-U12S SE-AM4.

u/lastwraith · 1 pointr/techsupport

I really don't know much about CPU fans (my gaming days are over and I primarily work with business machines both at work and home) but these don't look too bad. Hopefully someone more in the know will chime in though?

Check this thread
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/6bu1ew/do_i_need_an_aftermarket_cooler_for_my_ryzen_5/

Without knowing if you are overclocking or how much room you have in your case, here are some possibilities:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Contac-Silent-Support-CL-P039-AL12BL/dp/B06X9Q1K88
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-ONE-Processor/dp/B076LQ2BJZ

Stock
https://www.amazon.com/Stealth-Connector-Aluminum-Heatsink-3-93-Inch/dp/B079PZWX2L

u/BriniaSona · 1 pointr/GAAB350

This cooler https://www.amazon.ca/Thermaltake-Contac-Silent-Support-CL-P039-AL12BL/dp/B06X9Q1K88/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I want t know if I can take the fan off and replace it with a rgb cooler than plugs into the fan pins and has rgb

u/IIIIIIIIIIIIlllll · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/jmoney12rr · 1 pointr/battlestations

This one. It was super awkward to install and the motherboard clips kept giving me issues. I assure you it's on there tight and not causing any temp issues lol


u/Lupo_The_Doggo · 1 pointr/buildapc

I looked up "Contac silent 12" and saw a cooler with 3 heatpipes, but yes I meant the Contac silent 12.
Look: Thermaltake Contac Silent 12 150W INTEL/AMD with AM4 Support 120mm PWM CPU Cooler CL-P039-AL12BL-A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9Q1K88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wscBDb07VH7VB

u/PriceKnight · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Price History


  • Thermaltake Contac Silent 12 150W INTEL/AMD with AM4 Support 120mm   ^PureLink
    ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.3/5 from 306 valid reviews
    CamelCamelCamel - [Info]Keepa - [Info]

    _
    Don't Rook too long, these prices might not last.
    ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fdupx5n%2Frbuildapcsalescanada_general_discussiondaily%2Ff788yrm%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A
    %0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
u/clupean · 1 pointr/buildapc

Maybe you forgot but >this< is what an Intel stock cooler looks like. It's all attached, even the mount; it's not possible to just the remove the cpu fan and put another one in its place.
If you're not satisfied with it and want to OC you have no choice other than replacing it with a whole new cpu cooler.

u/MarkdownShadowBot · 1 pointr/ShadowBan

Hi /u/Cowpancakes, you're not shadowbanned, but 2 of your most recent 100 comments/submissions were removed. They may be removed automatically by spam filters and not necessarily by human moderators.


Submission in summonerschool, "What happened at the beginning of 2018 to spike winrates so hard?", 1pts (14 Oct 19)





Comment (1pts) in pcmasterrace, "Upgrading from I5-6500 to i7-7700k?", (07 Jun 19):

> Sorry for bothering you again but would this cooler be fine?

> https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Engine-Low-Profile-Cooler-CL-P032-CA06SL/dp/B06X9Q1K88/ref=sr_1_1?tag=amazongs-20&s=electronics&ie=UTF8...






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u/PineappleBuns · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Thanks for the info! The PC currently has a stock intel cooler, and I was looking at replacing it with a Thermaltake Contac Silent 12. It should hopefully decrease a lot of the noise.

I'll try to wait until Black Friday to see if any case fans go on sale.

u/RaptaGzus · 1 pointr/Amd

You could get the Ninja 4 instead which is similar performing in terms of perf/dB https://www.amazon.it/dp/B00W7AR2IY

Or, for the same price as the Macho, I recommend either the
FUMA - https://www.amazon.it/dp/B071XCCM7V
Mugen 5 - https://www.amazon.it/dp/B06ZYB8K77
or Ninja 5 - https://www.amazon.it/dp/B079X3DBH8
Which all perform better.

u/owens93 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'd change the cpu cooler, there's better for £30 and the hyper 212 is pretty old at this point. I use the Arctic freezer eSports duo on my 3600 and it's great.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B07MC8CRVZ/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=new


I'd also ask if you actually need an m.2 drive, you can get 1tb ssds for that price and if you're only gaming it won't really improve much. Or you could get 1tb m.2s for £90.

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crucial-P1-1TB-3D-NAND-NVMe-PCIe-M-2-SSD/362700999234?ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1%3Fff3%3D4%26pub%3D5574894536%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5336549684%26customid%3D1856680989%26mpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fitm%252FCrucial-P1-1TB-3D-NAND-NVMe-PCIe-M-2-SSD%252F362700999234%26srcrot%3D710-53481-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D2187686867772%26rvr_ts%3D8342944f16e0a4d0bb476af4ffaed381&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true


For the graphics card I'd suggest a 5700xt unless you
have a gsync monitor or want ray tracing. There's 20% discount on eBay atm and you can get a 5700xt for £340, there's probably cheaper 2060 supers , and I definitely saw that motherboard on there.

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-Radeon-RX-5700-XT-8GB-Graphics-Card/362701778200?ul_ref=https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574894536&toolid=10001&campid=5336549684&customid=1856676075&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F%2F362701778200&srcrot=710-53481-19255-0&rvr_id=2187751728144&rvr_ts=833978d616e0aae859c5e4e3ffe3e7e9&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true&pageci=7a06f2ba-89f3-4c05-8563-cd7f13ea1288&epid=3034200420


For the ram I'd spend a little more for a bit faster. Like this 3600mhz for £68.

https://www.cclonline.com/product/298935/PVS416G360C7K/Desktop-Memory/Patriot-Viper-Steel-Seties-16GB-2-x-8GB-PC4-28800-3600MHz-1-35V-CL17-DDR4-Desktop-Memory-Dual-Channel-Kit/RAM4288/?siteID=hL3Qp0zRBOc-rCFyJxqLf1ZbGKFEkvVBUg&siteID=hL3Qp0zRBOc-jUMJS0Pjeq9i2zomkOskiw

u/AsiaaaaaaticLion · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've heard more about the hyper 212 than the master air and the reviews about the 212 have all been good. Not necessarily bigger is better, but most times that's the case haha. But consider this budget air cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO. It's a solid performer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC8CRVZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lQNZDbA4VYTBD

My bad for not linking it properly I'm on mobile lol

Edit: if budget isn't an issue, I'd highly recommend going with Noctua's Air cooling options or BeQuiet! (specifically the dark rock pro 4) options as well. Both highest quality and highest performance air cooling options.

u/Vintagemetaphor · 1 pointr/Amd

This one?
ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO - Tower CPU Cooler with Push-Pull Configuration, Wide Range of Regulation 200 to 2100 RPM, Includes 2 Low Noise PWM 120 mm Fans - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MJGNJB3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pfEkDbZPHTYXA

u/raistlin65 · 1 pointr/buildapc

This Arctic cooler has some white elements on the fan: https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MJGNJB3 Once the fan starts spinning, it disappears for the most part, and you see more of the white around the fan well that surrounds it.

u/x3lr4 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Didn't you read my reply before the last? I listed a few key differences.

It's really hard to categorize the performance of thermal equipment. The differences are in the nuances. Airflow restriction, thermal conductivity, vibrations of the fans, quality of the motor bearings. Those things don't all translate into hard performance numbers.

​

A quick look at Amazon tells me they're in stock. Even the white one still has 1 in stock:

u/manujose94unsc · 1 pointr/Amd

Many thanks for your help. I am a novice in this.

So, this would be a good option: air cooler.

I want to build a blank white PC and also I have seen that for improving ventilation it is better open front case than the close front case.

u/abominalizer · 1 pointr/buildapc

Get this one - https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MJGNJB3

Cheap, good, and is more then enough for 3700x

u/equitorium12 · 1 pointr/battlestations

It's this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MJGNJB3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qAaSDbCFX1ECD

I'll probably look at some sort of water cooling soon but for an air cooler this is extremely good, super quiet too!

u/cb6000happy · 1 pointr/Amd
u/murdoc1024 · 1 pointr/ryzen

I had the exact same problem. I bought the Arctic Freezer 34 esport Duo and now im idle at 30C and gaming at 55C
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MJGNJB3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rhaXDbWH2067S

Edit: also, this is a thread with multiple options:

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildmeapc/comments/d1c136/what_would_be_a_good_cooler_for_a_ryzen_3600/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

u/GeorgeMKane · 1 pointr/buildapc

Nice mobo and cpu combo.

Everyone forgets the CPU cooler though.

This one for non-RGB builds, this one for RGB builds.

​

Here's my recommendation, if it's okay I just switch the mobo for a different brand and some other things. A lot of people have been trying to pair Ryzen 5 3rd gen with B450 motherboards, but they don't realize that won't work out of box a lot of times. lol!

PCPartPicker Part List

|Type|Item|Price|
|:-|:-|:-|
|CPU|AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor|$197.75 @ OutletPC|
|CPU Cooler|Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler|$34.89 @ OutletPC|
|Motherboard|MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard|$159.89 @ OutletPC|
|Memory|G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory|$77.99 @ Newegg|
|Storage|Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive|$139.99 @ Amazon|
|Video Card|MSI Radeon RX 580 8 GB ARMOR OC Video Card|$159.99 @ Newegg|
|Case|Corsair Carbide Series 275R ATX Mid Tower Case|$79.99 @ Walmart|
|Power Supply|Cooler Master MasterWatt 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply|$90.39 @ OutletPC|
|Operating System|Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit|$99.89 @ OutletPC|
|Wireless Network Adapter|Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter|$32.99 @ Amazon|
|Case Fan|Phanteks PH-F140SP_BBK 82.1 CFM 140 mm Fan|$14.99 @ Amazon|
|Case Fan|Phanteks PH-F140SP_BBK 82.1 CFM 140 mm Fan|$14.99 @ Amazon|
|Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts|||
|Total (before mail-in rebates)|$1188.74||
|Mail-in rebates|-$85.00||
|Total|$1103.74||
|Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-17 21:55 EDT-0400|||

u/Sapphire_Ed · 1 pointr/Amd

The 3700X at stock is a pretty cooling running chip. This means pretty much any decent cooler will do the job for you. I have used the ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO and the Scythe Big Shuriken 3 on a 3800X and they do a good job, should be great on a 3700X and both are around the $40 price point. No need to spend a lot of money to get quiet cooling. Also consider the Noctua NH-U12S SE-AM4 a little more expensive but it is after all Noctua :-)

u/DarkWingedEagle · 1 pointr/buildapc

Frankly since you can't oc that chip unless you are running hot the intel stock should be ok. If you really need an aftermarket one don't go overboard with a big one just get a hyper 212 for 30 bucks or 40 with some rgb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H22TC1N?tag=br-amazon08-20&th=1 you really don't need a noctua or something just save the money and go out to eat or buy some more ram.

u/Worstdad69 · 1 pointr/PcBuild

It depends what you want. Traditional Air-to-heatsink, an "All-in-one" water cooling, or a custom Water cooling setup.
Air cooling is cheaper, but overclocking and stressing the cpu will be harder to achieve.
If you choose water cooling, your choice of computer case can determine the size Radiator you want.
Usually by 120mm, 240mm, or 360mm radiator.
The larger, the more costy.
Here are some to look into...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079NXZQBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_33i2Db2S8733X

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H22TC1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_46i2Db58DTR6C

I suggest you keep looking through to find what you want though.

u/Eman0508 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Cooler Master RR-212S-20PC-R1... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H22TC1N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

here’s a good one under $45.

u/Failsawce · 1 pointr/buildapc

oh no i wasn't the one who picked the cooler haha. i already have a much better cooler otw.. unless you mean that one?

I already order the 212 evo black to replace this stock one last week.. should (hopefully) be arriving in a couple days. do you suppose that cooler will do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PC-R1-Direct-Contact/dp/B07H22TC1N

\^ this one here specifically, RBG LED was only $1.50 more so i went for it. pretty sure that's the only difference, i hope

u/Najanator717 · 1 pointr/buildapc

A 3600X is $250, and a 2070 Super is around $650, so that leaves $100 ($150 if you're lucky) for everything else. Nope, sorry.

You could get a 3600 ($200) and spend that $50 on a better RGB cooler, but I don't know what you can do for that graphics card besides downgrade.

u/jgiesler10 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Ryzen 2700x Temps - On Idle I get high 30Cs and low 40Cs for my AMD Ryzen 2700x, under load using Handbrake (admittedly also utilizing my GPU for the encode) I am at around 65C. I am getting these temps from the Ryzen Master utility.

My cooler is Cooler Master RR-212S-20PC-R1 Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition CPU Air Cooler 4 Direct Contact Heat pipes 120mm RGB Fan.


Do these temps make sense? I am worried that my idle temps are too high, but maybe I am just being to cautious. If they are too high, is my problem the cooler, or is it likely I just didn't apply the thermal paste right/didn't install the fan correctly?

u/christianbalon · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Gigabyte Z390 UD (Intel LGA1151/Z390/ATX/M.2/Realtek ALC887/Realtek 8118 Gaming LAN/HDMI/Gaming Motherboard) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HS59X7P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UQqkDbPBVANMJ
Cooler Master RR-212S-20PC-R1... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H22TC1N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/Prayse808 · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Can anyone recommend me a good case fan that doesn’t break the bank. This is what I’m considering. Cooler Master RR-212S-20PC-R1 Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition CPU Air Cooler 4 Direct Contact Heat pipes 120mm RGB Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H22TC1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.44jDb181J55G

u/ltsnotluck · 1 pointr/sffpc
u/ZorgNeo · 1 pointr/Amd

Got myself https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MC8CRVZ for my 3700x, very quiet, temp dropped by like 15 degrees under load. Seems good so far. The hardest part was taking the wraith prism off and cleaning everything.

u/LummerW76 · 1 pointr/buildapc

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-34-Esports-Duo/dp/B07MC8CRVZ
I love this one, and compares well against other high end ones. Otherwise a mugen may be good if you worry about clearance issues and price

u/FrancescoFabbi · 1 pointr/buildmeapc

In my opinion your build is very good good. However I wouldn't put too much money for the Motherboard, istead I'd buy this Motherboard: https://www.amazon.co.uk/GIGABYTE-B450M-DS3H-S-ATA-Socket/dp/B07FKNM8FQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=b450m+ds3h&qid=1558900391&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I know it looks less "cool" but it will save a lot of money. This money can be spent on more case fans for your pc or a better cpu cooler. The cpu cooler that comes with the CPU isn't great, trust me I have the same one.

​

When I first bought this cpu it would often overheat. Since I got this cpu cooler the problems have stopped: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MC8CRVZ/ref=dp_ob_image_ce

​

Hope this was useful

u/Almondjoy247 · 1 pointr/Amd

This is what I have for my 1600 (non x) and I can say for a cheapish cooler I couldn't be happier.
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MC8CRVZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=artic%2Bfreezer%2B34&qid=1562195615&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

I used the wraith spire on my overclocked (3.9 GHz 1.375v) 1600 for about a year and a half before upgrading to this. That said there is something to be said about free and the prism is better than the spire. I'd give it 6 months. If you wish your temps were cooler or just want to upgrade ( as was my case) then do it! It's fun to play every so often.

u/BrideOfAutobahn · 1 pointr/intel

https://www.amazon.com/Hyper-TX3-Cooler-Direct-Contact/dp/B005HIRDUA

this one installs the same as the stock intel cooler (pushpins) and will run cooler + quieter

u/rebane2001 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

That is kind of on the expensive side, but is this one any good?

u/tmouser123 · 1 pointr/Amd

https://www.amazon.com/Hyper-TX3-Cooler-Direct-Contact/dp/B005HIRDUA/ $18 and you can even overclock. Sweet spot is 30 to 35 dollar coolers but even this 18 one will put your current heatsink to shame. Note though that amd new warth coolers are decent though

u/Furderhur · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/lukeowenh · 1 pointr/buildapc

Is the Hyper TX3 Evo good? It's a bit cheaper than the bequiet one.

u/gabriee1 · 1 pointr/Amd

You don't need watercooling for this CPU. https://www.amazon.es/Cooler-Master-Hyper-TX3-RR-TX3E-22PK-R1/dp/B005HIRDUA

​

Cooler Master Hyper TX3 Evo. 30ºC on idle. 50-55ºC gaming with a Ryzen 5 1600X. Dont waste your money dude.

u/GameGasmZ · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I know it's a bit late but it's called the hyper tx3 evo

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005HIRDUA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_qePFwbWMKZZDN

u/rawlucidity · 1 pointr/buildapc

You should look at getting another cooler other than the stock. I currently use the Hyper 212 EVO, would recommend if you don't want to mess with liquid cooling. Easy(ish) install, and works very well! you can get it [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005HIRDUA?th=1)

u/Rancorip · 1 pointr/buildapc

Fantastic --
Here were the two I was talking about:

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1479615279&sr=1-2&keywords=cryorig+h7


https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005HIRDUA/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1479615279&sr=1-2&keywords=cryorig%2Bh7&th=1


I think ill wait until I get my heatsink before I start overclocking --
What temp ranges are ok? Does uping or lowering voltage contribute to increase/decrease in temp?
When I oc, can I just leave it overclocked or do I have to turn it on and off. I assume it depends on how much your temps fluctuate over a period of time. Any way to monitor this?

Is the goal of of successful OCing to have the highest GHz with the lowest voltage? Is 1.325 considered high or low (what are the general ranges)

Sorry for the oral diareha, im just super curious.
Thanks for the help =D

u/1ns4n3p41n · 1 pointr/buildapc

Here's the normal version of the CPU (which is a bit cheaper)

There really aren't many z77 motherboards in the 60 GBP price range, or they're not very decent... Just search for "z77" on amazon, can't really help you with choosing one :/


Although I would say go with a 8320 instead, it will save you some money and I think it is better at editing tasks & pick up a cheap aftermarket CPU cooler solution to OC the 8320 (something like this)

Here's a mobo for it in the same price range (10 gbp difference)

u/Auron69 · 1 pointr/buildapc

http://www.amazon.it/exec/obidos/ASIN/B005HIRDUA/?tag=tomsforum-21

will this work fine or it has a too small fan? so i won't have to take apart the motherboard (i came from a similar one, that uses this little tools to assemble it)

u/Berzerkerwar · 1 pointr/buildapc

They're good parts, but you could exchange them for something else. I would get [This Corsair PSU] (http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Modular-Bronze-ATX12V-EPS12V/dp/B00ALK3KEM/ref=lp_1161760_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1408080018&sr=1-1) which is great for the price and reliable. The [Noctura Silent CPU Cooler] (http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Silent-Cooling-NH-U9B-SE2/dp/B0065SFEE8/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408080045&sr=1-9&keywords=noctua) is very good but it is pricier than the 212, but having the 212 I can tell you that it can really get loud when the RPM's get going. Case is up to you, it's the part you will always be looking at, so get one that you will love for years to come.

u/ARKB1rd44 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Looking to get a different CPU cooler for under $80 CAD.

Found this Noctua NH-U9B SE2 on amazon for 60 W 2 day shipping. Is it a good deal or should I buy something else.

Edit: Wrong Cpu socket

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | Purchased For $280.00
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $35.84 @ Vuugo
Motherboard | Asus H97M-E Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $118.44 @ shopRBC
Memory | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | Purchased For $0.00
Memory | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | Purchased For $0.00
Storage | Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $0.00
Storage | Samsung 840 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $0.00
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $61.84 @ Vuugo
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 960 2GB Video Card | Purchased For $230.00
Case | BitFenix Prodigy M Midnight Black MicroATX Mini Tower Case | Purchased For $50.00
Power Supply | Corsair CXM 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $107.98 @ DirectCanada
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | Purchased For $0.00
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus PCE-AC56 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $76.98 @ DirectCanada
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $961.08
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-05 02:01 EST-0500 |

u/saltysupreme · 1 pointr/buildapc

Right on, do you think this one would work okay? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0065SFEE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_rQTuzbJ116TFT

I don't want to skimp on it much, but if I could save a bit of money that would be awesome.

Thanks.

u/gabbo995 · 1 pointr/italy

>Non so se ti è mai capitato di avere il dissipatore della Noctua tra le mani

[UH se mi è capitato!] (https://www.amazon.it/Noctua-NH-U9B-SE2-Dissipatore-Nero/dp/B0065SFEE8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496677702&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua) io ora su un pc ho questo. In ogni caso in QUASI tutti i case mid tower attuali, il tuo dissipatore ci sta, un po giusto ma ci sta.

Ora riguardo alla 1080 sono sempre bloccato perché non so bene a cosa giochi ma in 4k questa scheda [non ha prestazioni accettabili a mio parere] (http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-graphics-cards,4725-2.html) e salire di prezzo per prendere una 1080ti vuol dire spendere DAVVERO tanto. E riguardo al VR anche la 1070 si difende molto bene.

Per il monitor io ti direi di puntare su asus se vuoi giocare, magari trovando [qualcosa a 144hz] (https://www.amazon.it/Asus-VG248QE-Gaming-Monitor-1920x1080/dp/B00B19T7QC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496678178&sr=8-1&keywords=asus+144hz) (giocare a 144hz è un piacere e tornare indietro è davvero dura! posseggo quel monitor da un pò e mi ci trovo bene)
Se invece ti interessa un po di più l'accuratezza dei colori, Dell is the way.

u/ASHER-MAN · 1 pointr/OverwatchUniversity

I believe framerate is dictated more by GPU than CPU but, if this makes you feel any better, you're getting the most out of your 960.

I have a 1070 and a 144mhz monitor but I don't get 144fps consistently. I usually stick in the 120 range (maybe 130s? I don't recall). And it definitely dips depending on the action.

You should put a fan on that CPU though. The fact that it's running so hot may be affecting your performance as well. These are the best and they run silently. Comes with the heat sync.

u/Somerito · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

http://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NH-U9B-SE2-Silent-Cooling/dp/B0065SFEE8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1452584993&sr=8-7&keywords=cpu+cooler

Will this be a good choice for my i5-4690k? Just looking at a mild overclock nothing crazy, and that's pretty much my spending limit.

u/Novxz · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If you don't plan on overclocking your goal is basically silence. Something like a http://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-Silent-Cooling-NH-U9B-SE2/dp/B0065SFEE8?sa-no-redirect=1 as it is a solid CPU cooler in itself and is pretty quiet. The downside to the stock cooler or something like a 212 EVO is that they are quite loud which is probably something you want to avoid. If you don't care about sound just go with a 212 EVO.

u/cmays90 · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Your was automatically removed because it contained an affiliate code.

I have reposted your comment without it:

> Same fan is on sale on amazon for the same cost without having to deal with the rebate.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JEMXYQ

u/Obi_John · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'd say unless you plan on heavily overclocking, the stock cooler will work fine.

If you really want to get another cooler, the gammaxx 400 for $20 is your best bet for around that price. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JEMXYQ/?tag=pcpapi-20&th=1

u/bubblesort33 · 1 pointr/buildapc

If a $25 air cooler can't cool that thing at stock, something else is wrong. No reason to blow $140 on an AIO for a 3 year old CPU.

u/Brandon221234 · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you don't want the stock one you can use a Deepcool Gammaxx 400

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GAMMAXX-400-Heatpipes-Compatible/dp/B007JEMXYQ/?tag=li-org-main-20

u/Caribou_goo · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/iandj1 · 1 pointr/buildapc

That noctua should fit, LGA115x all have the same hole pattern so it would be compatible, however it isn't very generous for large ram sticks like you have. According to this site you'd get better performance from this with no ram clearance issues. However, that still isn't as good as a hyper212 which you already have.

As far as options that fit with tall RAM and are better than a 212, there are these on amazon CA:
PH-TC12DX
NH-U14S ($90)

u/NemoDota · 1 pointr/buildapc

I found a new one - DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 400 CPU Cooler PWM Fan with Blue LED AM4 Compatible.

(https://www.amazon.co.uk/DeepCool-GAMMAXX-400-Processor-Fan/dp/B007JEMXYQ/?tag=logicaincre05-21)


It's a bit cheaper than before, but this one is AM4 compatable which lets me not worry too much about the extra bracket, do I need to worry about anything else in regards to it?

u/KittieLandLoveCenter · 1 pointr/PcBuild

I'd go 16GB on the RAM. This may not be the best deal, but what I found thru the same site.

https://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=569_24_311_1326&item_id=099366



Also, on the cooler, this tested on par with the 212 and is a few dollars cheaper to help offset memory cost.

https://www.amazon.ca/DEEPCOOL-GAMMAXX-400-Heatpipes-Compatible/dp/B007JEMXYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=gamaxx+400&qid=1557021317&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell

Canadian prices throw me off too. 😅

u/wrong_assumption · 1 pointr/buildapc

Any thoughts on the cheap GAMMAXX 400?. I'm trying to keep the cooler as cheap as possible because I feel like an idiot for not going for the 2700X. But I also want it to be quiet.

u/michaelwise663 · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Thanks you BL00DBATH. If you're interested in this product, buy it on Amazon instead to get it for the same price without having to do a rebate. Quick though cause there are only 9 left in stock as of the time of this comment.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JEMXYQ

u/NorthStarPC · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

This build features RGB, an 8-Core CPU, and a small mATX form factor for just under $700.

CPU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06X3W9NGG/ref=ox_sc_act_image_4?smid=A23NVCSO4PYH3S&psc=1

This processor is still very good for multi-core performance, as well as 1080p and 1440p Gaming. This processor beats the 8400 and the 2600 overall.

GPU: https://www.newegg.com/sapphire-radeon-rx-590-100415p8gl/p/N82E16814202333?item=N82E16814202333

One of the best values out there, the RX 590 has great 1080p performance in AAA titles as well as the ability to run many games at 1440p very comfortably. The Pulse model has decent thermals and even has a $10 promotion currently on Newegg.

RAM: https://www.newegg.com/team-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820331039

This price is superb for RGB RAM. This is clocked at 3000MHz, which is great because Ryzen loves fast RAM.

SSD: https://www.newegg.com/hp-ex920-512gb/p/N82E16820326779?item=N82E16820326779

The EX920 is also a great value contender. It’s only of the fastest sub-$70 SSDs out there. 512GB should be plenty for gaming. Plus, this SSD uses the TLC NAND, which is better than the 660p’s QLC NAND.

MOBO: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07NH5DBNZ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

The B450M Bazooka V2 is fully compatible with the 1700x out of the box. This also leaves room to upgrade to a Zen 2 CPU.

PSU: https://www.newegg.com/evga-600-bq-110-bq-0600-k1-600w/p/N82E16817438100?item=N82E16817438100

The 600 BQ is a standard 600w power supply. It is enough for the system and is also semi-modular.

Case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079P1VBDY/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

This case features a front panel with RGB as well as decent airflow for a budget case. Also has great reviews on Amazon.

Fans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DHM6SW9/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=AFRUWVWO3UJ63&psc=1

Your case will use all of these fans. I chose some budget RGB fans will decent airflow to match up with the RGB fans, RAM, and case.

CPU Cooler: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007JEMXYQ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

This CPU Cooler might not be necessary, but I’m not sure if the CPU comes with the stock Cooler. If it doesn’t, this Cooler should be enough to provide decent thermals for the 1700x.

u/audma · 1 pointr/buildapc

Did you change the fan settings in the bios?

I would also recommend this air cooler to replace the stock one. The stock one isn't bad, but this one dropped my temps significantly.

u/PineappleOfWisdom · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

The mostly used air cooler currently is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo, which offers decent performance for it's price, I however usually go with the Alpenföhn Brocken 2 when working with a limited budget. It's about £10 more than the 212 Evo, but both have silver fins, so they might ruin your theme. An all black one I can recommend from the top of my head would be the be quiet Dark Rock 3, which is available on Amazon for £53.99, more expensive than the Matterhorn, but delivers quite a bit more performance and is very very silent in doing so.

Without going into too much depth about the keys, they are considered a grey area market, as they commonly are sourced through the Microsoft Dreamspark program for students and universities, being sold at pretty high rebates, allowing these cheap prices. They are legit keys, being send to you via e-mail or pm after paying mostly via PayPal, but like mentioned, it's a grey area, so decide for yourself if that would bother your conscience.

Edit: Apparently I somehow managed to put in some referral or affiliate link to the cooler and my comment got removed, hopefully this fixes it.

Edit 2: And if this comment shows up twice it's because I'm really confused as if the first is removed or not because I can still see it and therefore I post it again...

u/Cthulhu_is_Love · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

I am in GA.. got this for $1750

u/kyledempster7 · 1 pointr/SaltLakeCity

Ya! I heard that a lot. Also heard this may be better: Be Quiet! Dark Rock 3 CPU Cooler LGA775/1150/1155/1156/1366/2011 FM1/FM2/AM2/AM3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPX7IKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4EIfzb1TVPVT3

Know of some good fans I should look into?

PS: this is the case I was going with when water cooling. It only fits 2 fans though. Should I look into a different case? https://m.newegg.com/products/9SIA68V57M5138

u/knollexx · 1 pointr/buildapc

If Newegg is your only source of reviews you're doing something wrong.

Here's Amazon.

NCIX.

How about a shop in its origin country?

u/xSaturn · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hey, sorry that i have to write again.
Would a "normal" cpu cooler do the job as well as the Liquid Cooler? I was thinking of a Alpenföhn Brocken 2, a Be Quiet Dark Rock 3 or a Noctua NH-U9D SE2

Thanks

u/Calculatogator · 1 pointr/buildapc

That's another thing, do I really need external CPU cooler? I've already looked up http://www.amazon.co.uk/quiet-BK018-Quiet-Dark-Cooler/dp/B00HPX7IKU but I'm not convinced that I should really get it and spend extra money (I've a certain budget I can't go through).

u/OneWithoutShame · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I've recently upgrade from an i5-4590s to an i7-4790k and I'm looking into the "Be Quiet" cpu coolers found here. Looking at the 190w all the way down to the 120w.
https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK019-Silent-wings-Cooler/dp/B00HPX7IKU?th=1
.
I also found this Be Quiet Cooler on newegg.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA68V21E0641
.
And the Hyper 212 Evo as another cheap options.
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-20PK-R2-120mm/dp/B005O65JXI
.
Right now my i7-4790k hovers at 32c (sometimes jumping to 37c) at idle and up to 81c during gaming. I'm not sure if I should throw down the extra $25 for the 190w, go toward the between for the 180w, or go cheap on the $25 Evo. Opinions/Advice, considering to do some mild overclocking in the future.

u/HJ7888 · 1 pointr/buildapc

i hope too now im broke as fuck. and last but not least (ok maybe least) do you have any idea on which cooling fan i need ? since this is my first real set-up i want it to be good for a long time so i thought about this one https://www.amazon.fr/Be-quiet-Dark-Ventirad-Caloducs/dp/B00HPX7IKU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522163901&sr=8-2&keywords=ventirad

u/Miss-Doom · 1 pointr/HardwareSwapUK

I've got a brand new Dark Rock 3 if you're interested

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00HPX7IKU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/77xak · 1 pointr/buildapc

The 1600's stock cooler works great, best budget option obviously.

If you're buying used and it doesn't include a cooler, a good replacement is Gammaxx 400.

If you're trying to heavily overclock, then Scythe Mugen 5 or Thermalright Macho.

u/warbunnies · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/nistco92 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Get a CPU cooler first: https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GAMMAXX-Cooler-Heatsink-120mm/dp/B00JQ2YDCY/

It'll drop your temps at least 10 C.

(And case fans if you only have 1.)

Edit: I presume you're on a budget since you're asking this question. Know that you can get cheap mice that perform well, like this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HTK1NCS/

Headphones: https://smile.amazon.com/JVC-Head-band-Foldable-Headphones-HA-S400-W/dp/B008F7VW8E/

u/Thickcutrobb · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/LewisLegna · 1 pointr/buildapc

I want to upgrade my Ryzen 5 2600 stock cooler. My goals are less noise and maybe some overclocking headroom. 3 of my options are:

​

|$24|Gammaxx 400|TDP 125W|RPM 1500|
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|$36|Cryorig H7|TDP 150W|RPM 1600|
|$47|Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. b|TDP >200W|RPM 1200|

​

The first two are comparable to Hyper 212 Evo, and are good enough to cool the 2600. All 3 have a 120mm fan.

​

Do you think it would be sane to buy the Mugen 5 in order to have a quieter cooler, as well as... a much better cooler overall? Or should I go with the better value for the money?

u/asdf4455 · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Yeah that's definitely the issue. The intel stock cooler was designed for really low TDP CPUs. If you need a cheap cooler that will be effective, there's the Deepcool Gammaxx 400. It's cheap but will do a much better job than the stock intel cooler. With that, you shouldn't be experiencing any more thermal throttling.

u/sunbleahced · 1 pointr/techsupport

Ok so

processor - AMD FX 8350 Eight-Core 4.00GHz

cooler - looks exactly like this Deep cool gammaxx 400 and it is the same brand. I'm sure this is it.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GAMMAXX-400-Blue-Compatible/dp/B00JQ2YDCY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=deep+cool+heat+sink&qid=1558541822&s=electronics&sr=1-3

My home is about 75 degrees, year round. I'll go as low as 73 in the summer but almost never lower, 71 absolute minimum.

Right now, just kind of idle considering all I'm doing is Redditing, my CPU is at 31-34^(o)C and the graphics card is at 40. I haven't monitored it during gaming cuz my last graphics card came with its own software to do this and this one doesn't run anything like that automatically, I downloaded Speccy just now.

Ooh, I can see the multiplier on each core, how interesting! Haha this is new for me.

You can see my build here if the rest is TLDR:

https://www.reddit.com/r/computer/comments/bqvd7x/consolidationoverheating_help/

​

The case is just how it came with the factory build. It's by cyberpower and has a side fiberglass panel and the front is solid plastic with vents at the top and bottom for air intake, but the whole front clips off easily.

The factory build had a fan right behind the heat sink also, directed to push air out the back of the PC as the sole exhaust fan. I replaced it with a better fan that allegedly has liquid bearings, and put a fan 90 degrees to it above the processor that also pushes air out and away from the hottest area of the PC.

On the other side of the tower, there was one factory fan for air intake behind that removable front panel. Again I replaced with better fans and now there are three, all pulling air in the same direction as the original factory fan which I rationalized was a good thing because the air intake really only came from the small vents at the top and bottom of that removable panel.

u/Jynxmaster · 1 pointr/pcgaming

I had a i5 3570k for a very long time before I upgraded recently, if you haven't overclocked yet, you will definitely want to if you are going to upgrade your GPU.

I'd recommend overclocking your CPU to ~4.2GHz or so with a decent air cooler like the Deepcool Gammax 400, and picking up a RX 580 as you will be able to utilize freesync if your monitor supports it.

u/Computerknight54 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Amazon's reviews on that listing lump various other models of coolers' reviews in it so they aren't properly reflecting the capabilities. That cooler won't be much of an upgrade over the stock intel one.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GAMMAXX-400-Blue-Compatible/dp/B00JQ2YDCY This one would be though.

u/dnielso5 · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Would this interest you?

I have this (intel parts only) that had the LED wires cut (can be repaired pretty easy if you are interested.

u/FastStepan · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

It has already been suggested. R9 390 is on the level of 970. Read post from Luz53. Or you can go with AMD CPU and buy 390X. I dont know about this one tho, since even fully overclocked FX will bottleneck 390X.

You can save some money on cooler as well Deepcool gammax 400 is a great cooling solution, very silent as well. I have it for 2 years and the fan is still like new.Here a review about it.

I totally get why you wanted FX processor. It is kinda meh for gaming, but only top end i5 and i7s beat it in edditing.

Hope it helps

u/GonthorianDX · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Still, these games are demanding on high graphical settings causing the CPU to heat up, the simple stock cooler has a hard time cooling it down.

You can buy a good CPU cooler for 30-40$ that greatly reduces the noise.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GAMMAXX-Cooler-Heatsink-120mm/dp/B00JQ2YDCY?

u/Blackbart42 · 1 pointr/buildapc

So I ended up with the GAMMAXX 400 due to it being 6mm shorter than the 212 EVO and oriented the other way so it doesn't interfere with my RAM. The blue LEDs are slick too.

To be clear, the 212 EVO blows air up or down, while this GAMMAXX 400 blows left or right. Since I have my flow orented in at the back out at the front this works best for maximum airflow. Both are 4 heatpipe configs. I also got some Arctic Silver 5 to replace whatever comes with GAMMAXX 400.

I don't want to take my motherboard out since its a pain in the ass, but if this doesn't work I'll grab a water cooler and bite the bullet.

u/dnb321 · 1 pointr/Amd

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQ2YDCY

Super simple install and good cooler, only $20 too.

u/IMiss_Sol · 1 pointr/buildapc

I now have 2 intake and 2 exhaust with my CPU fan pointed towards my top exhaust for a small amount of neg pressure.
Question: Its my understanding that the side with the logo is the intake side. But when I stick my hand in my pc to feel airflow, half the fans feel reversed???

The specific fans im using are: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQ2YDCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 -- The fan on that CPU was replaced with this fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0119T0D4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 --- So that the cooler master fan is the frontal intake and the other fan is the CPU fan.

Then I have these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6S10KK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 --- one intake and one exhaust.

u/Trey5169 · 1 pointr/computers

On this note, if your computer is a desktop (which I think it is, from context) an aftermarket CPU cooler unit may be simpler than just replacing the OEM fan.

I have no experience with buying CPU cooling hardware, but it doesn't look to be too expensive for a simple system. Just realize that you don't need a crazy amount of cooling; your stock system was perfectly capable of cooling your CPU, and has probably just worn out with age.

This is assuming, of course, that physical damage to your fan is the problem at hand. If you blow the dust out and everything works fine, more power to ya.

On a side note, hold the fan still when blowing it with compressed air. If you let it spin freely, you could damage the bearings.

u/Liroku · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

womp womp, well even with the same voltage applied to the 212 that's being currently applied to stock cooler you'll still get better cooling, because it's a better design with much more surface area to dissipate the heat. It will also look cooler and be much quieter.

That said, you are probably hitting or very close to hitting thermal throttling currently. Which means your CPU gets hot enough that it is getting slowed down to keep cool. This can mean significant performance loss. I'd personally go for it, as long as your case can fit it. There is a smaller cooler that is almost basically a small version of the 212, it will fit in a lot of cases the 212 won't and is still much better than the stock cooler. It's called the Hyper T2.

I have a T2 on my wife's FX8350 and it does an amazing job and is cheaper. Since you may not be overclocking I would be comfortable highly recommending it to you if you want to save some money. If you ever plan to jump to a K series chip and are interested in overclocking, the 212 will help you get a little extra performance over the T2 though.

If you think it may be a problem with case temps(cpu cooler can only cool to the temp of the air it's supplied), pull the side panel off, you should see a relief in cpu temp if it's case temps. However, don't leave it off permanently as the airflow passing through the case cools passive coolers on your motherboard and other devices, without the side panel the air around them becomes more stagnant and will increase chipset temps.

u/Frankenseth · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

That's awesome! Thank you so much for helping me out!

I just have a couple of things I want to ask. Do you think this cpu cooler would keep me safe? And I'm not entirely set on that case. It was kind of an impulse buy, so do you have any suggestions on a different one?

u/BlackMoth27 · 1 pointr/headphones

>because the VRM isn't cooled

on pretty much any card, that's why they sell these

i'm not going to use that particular heatsink, that's silly. i'm going to likely use a CM Hyper T2
or one that i have that looks right.

u/lPanzerfaust · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

For an ITX build I cant reccomend the hyper t2 more for a budget minded build. If you have more roubles laying around you can pick up the low profile noctua nhl 91l.

u/NYAUX · 1 pointr/buildmeapc

I am curious what 2600 oc will do with a coolermaster t2. I have the 1500x @ 4 ghz using a coolermaster t2 and it blows me away for $16. I first OC'd with wraith cooler but it was 10c hotter at full throttle. https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-HT2-28PK-R1-Hyper-Heatpipes/dp/B00K7809O2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539150456&sr=8-1&keywords=coolermaster+t2

u/Sevealin · 1 pointr/buildapc

Would this CPU cooler work better? I'm tight on money, is the CPU and GPU the best for ~$200? Would this gpu be better?

u/CoolAsAPool · 1 pointr/buildapc

For all you novice builders like me out there, I suggest that you go with this. It's a good cooler that's cheap and the best part is that it installs like a stock cooler. This may not be the best for heavy overclocking but if you want a cooler that's cheap, has a PWM fan, installs easily, and is not too big (I've got a compact mid tower and this is one of the only non low profile coolers that will fit), you can't go wrong with this.

u/lordzamorak · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

The Hyper T2 is a solid fan which I use in my computer. It's alot smaller than the full size one so it should fit in any size case!

u/phcorrigan · 1 pointr/audioengineering

For less than US$20 you can get an oversize CPU fan designed for gamers that uses liquid cooling. Here is the fan I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K7809O2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, if you are using Windows I'd recommend a monitoring utility like Speccy (https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy) to monitor CPU temperature.

u/Chafe2923 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I'm using a 612
Cooler Master Hyper 612 Ver.2 - Silent CPU Air Cooler with 6 Direct Contact Heatpipes and Folding Fin Structure RR-H6V2-13PK-R1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJSFR7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yVqYxbZRTQ1QY

Fills up my entire case wasn't expecting it to be so big

u/chapstickbomber · 1 pointr/Amd

If your motherboard is decent, the most cost effective upgrade would be a better CPU cooler, some hella fast RAM, and learnin-u-rul-gud how to overclock and max out you CPU, RAM, and 290X.

OC 290X with locked clocks is a total beast.

You could probably get a 30% overall performance boost for about $100 if you went monster hard in the paint.

u/InturnYT · 1 pointr/buildapc

What about this version? With extra heat pipes? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00PJSFR7Y/ref=twister_B01N6TXYXP?th=1

Sorry for so many questions, its my first time doing this :P

u/lightning_po · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Alright, so you have the budget, need some knowledge. IMO this build is kind of overkill.

Let's start with your CPU. The i7-6700k is pretty much the flagship CPU of LGA-1151. It overclocks amazing, and really pushes out an insane amount of work. If you wanted to save some money, you could bump that down to the i5-6600K and the main difference would be time spent in specific video rendering applications. You COULD choose to save $100 right off the bat. i7-6700K is honestly kind of an overkill CPU, but if you really want that extra bit of future proofing, go for it.

Some CPU benchmarks to help you consider the $100 in difference of the two CPUs:

i5-6600K for $230ish

i7-6700K for $330ish

Your CPU cooler is a bit much, and if you're going to spend $90 on it, you may as well step it up to water cooling (which is a BITCH to maintain), or save you some money and just get something like this for $40-$50. Click around in the options for that, there's one for $77 with 8 heat pipes and a vapor chamber that just looks BEASTLY, and would definitely handle all your cooling needs unless you decided to try and overclock your CPU to something insanely high.

Now for your GPU, if you're going to spend $700 on a GPU, why not get the top of the line of the newest, latest and greatest? The GeForce GTX 1080 is the flagship GPU with more than enough power for 1080p 144hz. If you decide to go with GTX 1080, you'll get hit with around 20-30 different options, and really it comes down to brand loyalty imo as they will all have the same processing units inside, just different clocks and styles and fans. Many people like the founder's edition and FTW gaming edition, although you can go nuts and buy one with water-cooling built in if you please. Personally, I've always been a big fan of ASUS, but EVGA seems to be leading the GTX 1080 market. I also forgot to mention that 1080 is probably overkill for your monitor setup, you could be alright with a 1070 honestly, and that would save you a good chunk of change. Again though, if you want that extra overkill and bit of future-proofing, that would certainly do it.

In this day and age you really don't NEED a CD/DVD drive unless you plan on buying some physical copies of games rather than download over steam due to internet or w/e, but if you're intending to stream, I'm kinda guessing your internet is pretty decent.

You should be able to use the external storage drive on your pc as well, but you may want to get an internal 7200rpm drive simply for durability, as external drives tend to get knocked off tables and die on you.

Don't forget about thermal paste. Many swear by ARCTIC MX4 or Arctic Silver 5 polysynthetic silver. avoid thermal paste with diamonds in it, as they tend to scratch your die, and you don't want that.

Also didn't say anything about the power supply, but it's a bit over the top. The one you picked will definitely let you have more peripherals and even upgrades later, but probably don't need one that's QUITE as powerful.

Also, as previously stated, get two of the same monitor or even use the $400 to invest in a single gaming WQHD monitor with something cheap for a second monitor since it'll mostly be doing some editing or monitoring the stream anyways

Summary:

Save some money with slightly better parts, same PSU for future upgrades : http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Xy9NvV

Save a lot of money, still an amazing machine, but not QUITE as overkill : http://pcpartpicker.com/list/kPcTPs

u/teebqne2 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Also, unrelated but, do you know any fans similar in performance with this (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-16PK-R1-Heatpipe/dp/B00PJSFR7Y?th=1) I planned on getting that one but it's not gonna be in stock for a week so I figured I could get something similar.

u/dub_dub_11 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

With that amount of extra money you could buy something like this which is better than the Spire.

u/stovinchilton · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/Schpulke · 1 pointr/buildapc

First of all Thank you for your answer!
Yes, in fact I wanted to use OC soft that comes with motherboards.
As for coolers I found info on Cooler Master site and decided to go with Hyper 612 Ver.2


u/Lukaze · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I just got a similar setup. How would this cooler work? Given i probably will not OC.

u/Dealj0bber · 1 pointr/pcgaming

No. In fact, after I start checking since I got a HFR monitor, I need to cool it, and soon.

Thing gets to 85C under load. It's the stock cooler. Just ordered this, because I just want to keep it cool.

u/wbkang · 1 pointr/buildapc

I got a bigger version of that, and yes it was soooo hard and caused lots of cuts.

u/fresh_leaf · 1 pointr/buildapc

Perhaps consider the ARCTIC Liquid Freezer 240. It's a pretty beastly cooler and goes for about the same price as the D15. You can check out a review here.

Though TBH, if you're only aiming for ~4.4GHz you can get away with something quite a bit cheaper like the Macho Rev. B. It's actually not far off the D15 in performance, you can check out a review here.

As for the PSU I'd probably go with the SuperFlower Leadex Gold, but the RMx is probably just as good.

u/colinreay · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you want a black and red case, a H440 or a eclipse p400 might be something to consider. H440 is one of the most popular cases for a reason - it looks great, and the eclipse p400 has integrated rgb leds! I have a Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 3, and it is very very quiet, and looks great. Another one to consider is the Thermalright Macho Rev B, which is also very quiet.

u/level_2_yeet · 0 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You should try the Noctua NH-l9x65 and just swap out the fan with an rgb one if you want
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-L9x65-Premium-Low-Profile-Cooler/dp/B00VB3Y89E

u/madbr3991 · 0 pointsr/buildapc

I would suggest a much better cooler

For air cooling my go to option is the cooler master hyper 212 black edition $37
Cooler Master RR-212S-20PC-R1 Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition CPU Air Cooler 4 Direct Contact Heat pipes 120mm RGB Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H22TC1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kP-rDb444X54H

Or you could use a all in one liquid cooler
This 120mm aio is less than $70
CORSAIR Hydro Series H60 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 120mm Radiator, 120mm SP Series PWM Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079NXZQBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i2pfDb705AHRP

$70 CORSAIR Hydro Series H60 AIOhttps://www.newegg.com/product/N82E16835181140

If your case can handle a 2x 120mm aio
$75 Cooler Master MasterLiquid LC240E RGB All-in-one CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump Latest Intel/AMD Support (MLA-D24M-A18PC-R1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRGC899/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D6pfDbJ8NS75B