(Part 2) Best electric boxes, conduit & fittings according to redditors

I was like, damn that is clean. Then I seen all the cables crammed under the desk. The only thing you need is some Polyethylene wire tube and some cable velcro and you're set for life.

Nice clean little setup you have there. Good job. My inner electrian is getting bothered by your receptical though. They make box extensions so that your receptical can be flush with the faceplate and look finished also safer. Not that you will probably ever accidentally stick a screwdriver or something metallic in that way but... again.... My inner electrian had to say something.

Like this, there are a lot of different options though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000H5ZVY8/ref=psdcmw_6369374011_t2_B00J7I2446

Edit: just realized that that receptical is cracked too! Put A GFI and an extension on and you'll be good to go ;)

DEWALT DWA2600IR Impact Ready Conduit Reamer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OA02UBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0yMVBbWEH0WGQ

I have the same box, grid is sold separately.

Grid

Box

I've been using a 75 ft 12 gauge for over a year without issue, charging from it nightly.

I do stick to 8 amps, but I have pulled 12 amps through it for short periods of time.

I wouldn't go any smaller than 12 gauge, and shorter is better, so a 15 foot should be fine.

I also use a GFCI adaptor on the outlet and bought this to waterproof the junction between the extension cable and the charger.

Either the electrician fucked up installing boxes (before drywall install) or the builder used thicker drywall than the electrician assumed. The boxes should be flush with the drywall. If the boxes are close to flush (e.g. maybe 1/8" or less) I wouldn't worry about it. But if not, the fix is easy: get some of these.

Well, that'd be the cover plate, yes. But I meant something like this mounted in the ceiling. Then terminate the cable and mount the plate directly to the box as if it were the cover.

When you take down the AP, just cover the box with a blank and now the new home owner can reuse it if they want.

This is the best investment I’ve made. I do a lot of electrical work and it helps me identify the right circuit every single time. It will save a lot of headaches for your project.

If you're a prime member you can likely get it quicker through Amazon.

Doesn't need to replace the box. They make box extensions like this and this and handy box extensions.

He might be able to remove the existing box and install an old work box behind, and facing the other direction, from where the original box is. Other side of the wall. Although, abandoning the original box location may be a code violation by removing a required outlet location.

It's a bit pricey, but this is an enclosure that you can put an access point into. The enclosure is made to be screwed into something (like a wall or ceiling) so it doesn't walk off, plus has the ability to be locked up with a padlock. You'll need to make sure your particular access point will fit in the enclosure.

/u/TouchMyWoody's comment is also applicable - set up MAC address filtering on the switch so that the only thing it will allow to connect is the access point. Be aware that this can be defeated by someone using a MAC address spoofer and is not foolproof. But then, very little is foolproof to someone determined to break it.

Try using wire loom, it’s what is used in most industries (don’t believe me check your cars wiring) it gives a professional look while protecting wire and can be found on amazon for cheep https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Polyethylene-Wire-Diameter-Black/dp/B00DP3K8A6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3

> What do you do if you have a shitload of cords everywhere?

Split loom is what we use. [We have a cat that thinks that USB-sized cables are the most tasty thing ever.] It's cheap and with an insertion tool it's easy to put wires inside. You can get it in lots of sizes too, in case you need to bundle many cables together.

You can get circuit tracers that will do this. Plug one end into the outlet or remove the cover and put clips on the wires by the switch (sending unit) and then use the receiver to identify the breaker or outlets. I have one similar to this that works great.

As a tip, take the wall cover off and label the inside once you find out what does what/where. I’ve written the circuit number inside all of my plates as I upgrade to tamper resistant. In my basement and garage everything has a label maker number on the outside with the breaker number since those are the areas I’m most likely to trip while using power tools.

If you are running a bunch of pipes or racks, get something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWA2600IR-Impact-Conduit-Reamer/dp/B00OA02UBS

100 FT 1/4" INCH Split Loom Tubing Wire Conduit Hose Cover Auto Home Marine BlackMarine Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KW9PQTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NKYNBb1R2TAPQ

This has done well for me so far.

Very easy. You can either fish Romex up and over or cut/patch drywall and come up from below. Most modern outlets have secondary connections that will allow you to easily split the power off. Or if you want to just move it in general you can wire nut the leads together according to color code and throw a blank plate on the existing box.

You will need a “cut in” style junction box for the new outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/Carlon-B114R-UPC-Lamson-Products-Number-1G/dp/B017Y54F36


I would expect to pay an electrician $60-$100 depending on where you are and how much work it takes to get the line in.

So first things first buy some "twist wire connectors" like below: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I1PFD4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yeH3Cb9RZTBBT

You may also want to buy a small-ish junction box for your wire connectors to be housed in if the cord is in an obvious area. Might be unnecessary if this is portable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075DG55KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DjH3Cb58QJNNH

Next turn off anything that would supply power to the wires in question. Might need to turn off circuit breakers at your electrical panel.

If you got the junction box, wire the cables into there and give yourself enough slack to where the wires jut out of the box by at least half the width of your fist.

Next feed both same colored wires into the twist connector and twist until hand tight. Repeat for each individual wire pair.

Take out the slack and use electrical tape around either side of the cable to reduce the tension on the wire connectors.

Close the junction box and you're done.

Is he fixed? How destructive is he when you let him out now? How well litter trained is he?

Everybun is different but it shouldn't be too difficult to get him adjusted. Set up his cage or pen in some corner of the room and start him in there to make sure he keeps his litter habits. Watch him when you let him out and see what mischief he gets up to and figure out creative ways to stop him from doing it. Probably a good idea to invest in a bunch of [wire wrap](https://www.amazon.com/Split-Tubing-Conduit-Marine-BlackMarine/dp/B00KW9PQTE/ref=pd_sbs_200_1/144-6872218-1880110?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KW9PQTE&pd_rd_r=ca6aace4-5f03-11e9-8078-db1490754bb9&pd_rd_w=vaviC&pd_rd_wg=TmneE&pf_rd_p=763ccc93-bfa2-47be-85ae-0cdd7e00b3da&pf_rd_r=F1FR0KXR42XR3K2B5Z7R&psc=1&refRID=F1FR0KXR42XR3K2B5Z7R\](https://www.amazon.com/Split-Tubing-Conduit-Marine-BlackMarine/dp/B00KW9PQTE/ref=pd_sbs_200_1/144-6872218-1880110?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KW9PQTE&pd_rd_r=ca6aace4-5f03-11e9-8078-db1490754bb9&pd_rd_w=vaviC&pd_rd_wg=TmneE&pf_rd_p=763ccc93-bfa2-47be-85ae-0cdd7e00b3da&pf_rd_r=F1FR0KXR42XR3K2B5Z7R&psc=1&refRID=F1FR0KXR42XR3K2B5Z7R](https://www.amazon.com/Split-Tubing-Conduit-Marine-BlackMarine/dp/B00KW9PQTE/ref=pd_sbs_200_1/144-6872218-1880110?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KW9PQTE&pd_rd_r=ca6aace4-5f03-11e9-8078-db1490754bb9&pd_rd_w=vaviC&pd_rd_wg=TmneE&pf_rd_p=763ccc93-bfa2-47be-85ae-0cdd7e00b3da&pf_rd_r=F1FR0KXR42XR3K2B5Z7R&psc=1&refRID=F1FR0KXR42XR3K2B5Z7R)) unless he is one of those freaks who doesn't like wire.

You can, but it's always better to mount to a stud if location allows. In that case, a smart box is the way to go. They're way better than the typical old work box.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Madison-Electric-Products-MSB1G4PK-Adjustable/dp/B00H8NUVQK/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1FYLHOIEE1AUD&keywords=smart%2Bbox%2B2%2Bgang%2Belectrical%2Bbox&qid=1563409695&s=gateway&sprefix=smart%2Bbox%2B2%2Bgan%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-7&th=1

At my house we use the Koogeek Smart Plugs and put all of our connections inside one of these.

SockitboX - Weatherproof Indoor and Outdoor Electrical Power Cord Connection Enclosure Box – Small Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009RX5GI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hxCgAbYDB0YY5

I would do something similar to what u/bdjookemgood said. The low voltage available here, and if you wanted were set on the condiut. But you don't need it all, you're just fishing some electrical, hdmi, and whatever else you need for your tv to function. I've used an extension cord to extend the electrical into the wall if the tv's power cable isnt long enough. One last tip I've done. Use these to give it a more finished look instead of just the holes in the wall. But all in all its a pretty simple idea.

Depends on the LED strip you bought and how the RGB controller connects to the lights. Some solderless RGB connectors will match up with male breadboard pin headers, but not all of them.

Personally, I would avoid all solderless connections that don't have screw terminals. I have a mix of both soldered and solderless connections in my kitchen and I have had to go back and solder most of them due to failures of the solderless connectors.

Soldering is not difficult at all. Buy a cheap soldering iron and some thin (1mm) rosin core solder. Your connections will be much more reliable as a result.

Don't forget to buy extension wire. You will need some for both soldered and solderless connections.

I got one of these: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Industrial-Solutions-U054P-Receptacle/dp/B000BQWP56 and I just wrap the core into a circle and loop it over the box itself when it's not in use.

from TV down, you can use 2 brush plates (https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-Industries-LVCED135WP-1-Brush-Style-Low-Voltage/dp/B00OB21NRM/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=brush+plate&qid=1558812302&s=hi&sr=1-17) , one behind the tv and one behind your desk/computer, and run the cables down the inside of the wall. as for whats below the desk, bundling the cables with just some zip-ties would definitely clean it up. you could do more, like route the cables along the back and edge of your desk, but that would require more work.

We have a similar casing for our wires, I believe it was extra from a members 3d printer

Edit: found it!

I think i will install this on the inside of the house. Ordering two for each camera.

(Link)[https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00OB21NRM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1]



The plug will come in the house through this and then I'll plug it in to the adjacent outlet.

I use an outdoor receptacle in rain/snow/sleet/all weather conditions and it works great with no issues.

Here's the box that I've got: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Industrial-Solutions-U054P-Receptacle/dp/B000BQWP56

Ok, here's your update. The box came out very easily. Unfortunately what I didn't notice when putting in the old work box is that the retaining clip was going up against some weak drywall where the previous owner had screwed a drywall screw through at a downward angle from the original outlet to try and keep the outlet from popping out (idiot) so the old work box will not stay in the wall.

 

I am now waiting for these from amazon and I'll put one in and then repair the drywall: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D2O1770/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I have some pictures, but i don't know how to post them within a thread.

What would be the best way to run IEC power cables out of this enclosure while maintaining its weather seal? I'm thinking drilling a hole large enough to fit the IEC connectors through and installing some sort of rubber gasket, but I'm not sure. Any help would be appreciated.

Edit: the cables will be running to this temperature controller.

Here is the mobile version of your link

Do you have a breaker panel in the garage with two empty slots, that can handle 50 Amps? You can install a 240V NEMA 14-50 outlet for about $50 in parts, if you can DIY it. An electrician will charge you $200-300 in labor. Part of that may or may not go towards a permit. If your area requires a permit for such work and you pay an electrician, insist on seeing that permit. The heavy gauge wire is the most expensive thing if your breaker panel is far away. If you have to fish wire from a basement, it becomes an entirely different project. That heavy gauge wire is not easy to work with, in tight spaces.

I don't have a garage, so getting a weather proof outlet to my driveway from my basement was a little more expensive and tedious:

• 25' of 6/3 wire - $60
  
• Raintite Box - $35
  
• GF Breaker - $106
  
  Indoors, you shouldn't need ground fault protection, so your breaker should only be about $20. Get the brand that's compatible with your panel. Without the outdoor box, a 14-50 outlet shouldn't run you more than $15. If you have a panel near by, just get the length of wire you need. If you're not fishing through the walls, you probably need to run the wire through a conduit from the panel to the outlet box. Check your local codes, or pull a permit like a good citizen. The inspector will likely be more than happy to tell you exactly what you need to do, if you ask.

Sure. Here's the shopping list:

Project Box (5 pack, $5.80)

SMA Connectors (4 Pack, $5.85)

SMA Pigtails (Need 2, $4.85/ea)

SMA Extension Cable (Need 2, $8.50/ea) (3 feet)

RAM Suction Cup Mount ($15.99)

Start out by making four small pilot holes in the project box where you see both the connectors and antennas on mine.

Use the screws included with the RAM mount to go through the bottom left and top right corners of the bottom of the project box. This almost perfectly lines up with the holes in the suction cup, but make sure to use a template. You will not use the ball piece that comes with the suction cup.

Connect an SMA Female-Female connector on one end of each of the pigtails. Tighten with a wrench and pliers, but careful not to mess up the thread.

Enlarge the two holes on the small side of the project box to fit the female-female connectors (that you just attached) through, barely. Use generous hot glue to fix them in place on the inside, with the screw end from the SMA pigtail being pushed all the way up to the project box wall to allow as much of the connector to stick out as possible. Note, you may need to apply pressure to keep the connectors as straight and tight as possible until the glue cools/dries completley.

Take the other ends of the pigtail connectors (with the included nuts and other stuff) and put them through the other two holes on opposite long sides of the project box (Make sure you don't mix up left and right), enlarging the holes as necessary to ensure they fit. Use the included fittings to fix them in place firmly. (Use a wrench to tighten)

Stuff the pigtails in the project box, again verifying that you didn't mix up left and right. Close it up, connect the 3 foot SMA cables to the plugs on the bottom, and wire them into your Stratux. You should be good to go!

Photo

2nd vote, for chipping up the entire tile floor then. If its ALL damaged and worn, just rip it up and replace it. If the holes in the existing concrete are near the tiled area, just run the tile into the next room and cover it all at once. If the holes are under where tiles are broken now, then just fill it in with mortar as you redo your tiles. Small gaps won't be a problem.

I totally should have thought about running new drywall over the existing wall. That's a MUCH easier option. And if I recall correctly, they make little electrical box extenders for this type of situation.

http://www.amazon.com/Carlon-Pvc-Electrical-Extender-b1ext-crd/dp/B000H5ZVY8

Wire loom would help. As would an extra large mouse pad and a stand to get your computer off the floor.

Yep. Although the smaller solar panel I linked to comes with a controller (a bit simpler one), I used these. It looks like maybe amazon doesn’t carry them anymore so if you want that one might try eBay. I’ve bought it as “Anself Solar charge controller” as well as “Docooler Solar charge controller” it’s just a 12v controller.


I actually have started using this one on my bigger setups because it has more info:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZZMDSQ

But they are all basically glorified switches that monitor the output of the panel and battery and connect them when the energy on the panel is high enough and disconnect when it’s lower so you’re not draining the battery.


The project box is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T990I0
With this backing plate inside to screw into to mount the timer and controller:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UPE83U

Oh and if you want it to be water tight when you run cables through holes in the sides you’re gonna want something like these to go with it:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ03AUQ/
I’d imagine you could get a single one from an electric supply store if you didn’t want a set.

Added a few things to make my life easier and with a few showers overnight cooks I don’t have to worry about a thing.

CMS Magneitcs Ceramic Magnet Hook 1 1/4" in Diameter with 18 LB Holding Power 6-Count

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015V0D1CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nt8RBb749RG27

CMS Magnetics Magnetic Tool Tray 10.75"x4.5"x1.25" Black Tool Organizer

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ54HLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qn8RBbDTCFZ0D

SockitboX - Weatherproof Indoor and Outdoor Electrical Power Cord Connection Enclosure Box – Small Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009RX5GI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8n8RBbTWDABST

Also added a few pictures of what I started smoking last night.

Get some of these and try doing PoE:

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Outdoor-Weatherproof-Enclosure-Cabinet/dp/B0042ZKWBG

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-ZoneFlex-Unleashed-Dual-Band-9U1-R310-US02/dp/B01FV0OIJM

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B002HFKSS0

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005P-Gigabit-Ethernet-compliant/dp/B076HZFY3F

The APs are special ones that have a software based antenna that improves range. They are the lower end (but newer) versions of this:

https://www.evdoinfo.com/content/view/5077/64/

The enclosures is intended to make it safe to use them outdoors. The outdoor cable can be buried (although it should go below the frost line). The switch is designed to power the APs. If the cables are not long enough, you will need outdoor range extenders and a beefier switch that supports 802.3at to provide the additional power needed by the range extender. These would work:

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Repeater-Amplifier-Ethernet-TPE-E100/dp/B00SDFF6S0

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Unmanaged-Rackmount-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B07788WK5V

If you need to go even further than 200m, you could probably run your own dedicated low voltage DC powerlines alongside armored fiber cable and use media converters to convert from fiber to twisted pair. You would need a switch that supports SFP modules and to get a SFP transceiver for each end.

I struggled and struggled with these small metal boxes in my house built in 1972 until I was shown the solution...

If you get a get a hacksaw you can cut the nail(s) holding the box to the wall stud and remove the box. Replace it with a new box from your local home center. A couple minutes sawing the nail, then a few minutes pulling the wires into the new box, then a minute screwing the new box to the wall.

Bonus tip... if you find your outlets and switches aren't sitting flush with the faceplate, these things are excellent!

Arlington BE1-5 Electrical Outlet Box Extender, 1-Gang, White, 5-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00303FYHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_TKP5wb5QTX7CB

Search for outdoor weatherproof enclosure on Amazon, I was considering something like this (link) sometime ago, but never bought it.

My brother built me a waterproof box out of a plastic container for our T-Mobile cell phone repeater since we put it outside sometimes, but it's not for leaving out in like a torrential downpour, but for everyday weather it works great.

If you are cutting right beside the stud Madison Electric makes old work boxes that screw into the studs, they are way better than old work boxes with the tabs for the drywall in my opinion as I've been re-wiring and even the ones behind my TVs are all the Madison ones.

18. CU 1gang https://www.amazon.com/Madison-Electric-Products-MSB1G-Adjustable/dp/B00H8NUVQK

22.5 CU 1 Gang https://www.amazon.com/Madison-Electric-Products-MSB22-Adjustable/dp/B00H8NUVM4

Get these to daisy chain. Some of the controllers come with them, you just have to look. Im at work right now so I cant look up the one I got.

I have the original 3-in-1 cable. When its HDMI died, instead of replacing the entire cable, I replaced just the HDMI cable with an active HDMI cable. It's about a foot shorter than the 3-in-1 cable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GMB5LA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I chose the ultra slim cable as I didn't want to trim the connector to fit inside the headset.

This was meant to be temporary as the 3-in-1 cable was out of stock at the time. But I found that it doesn't bother me at all so I decided to keep it as is.

EDIT: I use a braided sleeve for the cables (including the link box power cable) from the PC to the link box. I use 1/2 inch split wire loom for the 3-in-1 cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Split-Tubing-Cover-Marine/dp/B00J7S39CW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505055741&sr=8-3&keywords=1%2F2+split+loom+tubing

The split wire loom works very well in preventing kinks. I use 1/2 inch due to the side of the original 3-in-1 cable, I suspect you can use a smaller size for the new 3-in-1 cable,

Adafruit’s website has enclosures you can drill through or ones with removable plastic holes to make custom cases.

Edit:

• LeMotech ABS Plastic Dustproof Case: They come in various sizes, though this one should be good for you
  
  
• DIN Rail Slotted: Screw one of these into the bottom of the box to mount your pi. That link is a 20 pack though you only need 1.
  
  
• Comidox Set of 5 PCB Din C45 Rail: Snap two of these onto your mounting rail and screw your pi to it.

Is this what you're referring to? If so, do you know if it is up to national electric code? If so, I could kiss you for saving me the trouble of patching the Sheetrock.

You should use a Circuit Tracer -

If you really want it to be water tight you could get some of the compression seal nipple plugs and a water tight box and build an enclosure for them that way. Basically you'll just leave the cable plugged in on the terminal side and only plug unplug the ipad side.

What do you mean by helm guard?

I also have a sit / stand desk but have my computer on a separate table to the side of it. Here's what i did!


My desk is ikea, and has a mesh cable management net mounted to the bottom. I found that the best thing to do was mount a big power strip to the bottom of the desk, and plug in all my accessories there. Then i only have the one power strip cable coming down from the desk underside, and goes down along the back of the table leg and plugs into my UPS that's on the floor. Then I mount all of the cables to the underside of the table with these guys (https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Adhesive-Management-Holder/dp/B01HR9VS4I/ref=lp_11042051_1_15?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543598131&sr=1-15) . So I have a power strip next to the net, all the cables being plugged into the strip are being hidden by the net, but since the cables are mostly fastened to the underside, the net doesn't sag and stays mostly out of sight.


Since my computer is on a side table i use really long cables, and used one of these to go from the inside of the cable net to the back of the computer (https://www.amazon.com/Black-Split-Tubing-Cover-Marine/dp/B00J7SAHTK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543598333&sr=1-3&keywords=plastic+cable+sleeve). There are more modern looking ones, i just happened to like the "industrial" look of this one, if you could call it that...

​

Hope that helps! I know for me, once i got started seriously trying to take care of the cable situation, all the ideas on how to make it better just come to you as you are doing it. Figuring out where to start is often the hard part :D

problem solved