Best electrical boxes according to redditors

I made this Pi controlled irrigation system. The goal was to make it as user friendly as possible. It is not finished yet. I had to get a working proto going as soon as possible because I moved to a different state and my parents are selling this house. Not to mention fall semester starts on Monday. I plan on working on this as much as possible on my free time and then make a guide and share my code with everyone so others can benefit from my work. If you want my current code and want to improve on it please PM me. Also, I would love it if you shared your version with me as I will implement it into my code. I want to share my best with everyone.

P.S. I did not document my code at all. I mainly hard coded all of this in the past few days since I was limited on time. I am also a noob on Kivy and this is my first big Pi project.

Edit: Below are the hardware

Landzo 7 inch touch panel - 40.88

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B - 39.99

32 GB flash - 15.69

DS3231 RTC Clock Module - 5.99

4 channel relay - 6.99

Uxcell enclosure - 9.99

M2.5 hex spacer screws - 9.98

Modified internal panel - 8.30

Total: 137.81

PS. Definitely could be cheaper. For me it sure was because I had some of the parts already available that came in a some sort of kit.

I have the same box, grid is sold separately.

Grid

Box

Agreed. Before you start cleaning, install a bigger box: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0009KIN0A.

I found one that shows the inside: http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-CAT5E-Junction-listed/dp/B0059DRC3G

That makes a lot more sense now, thanks.

I've been using a 75 ft 12 gauge for over a year without issue, charging from it nightly.

I do stick to 8 amps, but I have pulled 12 amps through it for short periods of time.

I wouldn't go any smaller than 12 gauge, and shorter is better, so a 15 foot should be fine.

I also use a GFCI adaptor on the outlet and bought this to waterproof the junction between the extension cable and the charger.

So here's my project I've been working on for the past couple of weeks. I'm sure you can adapt this to a 2 motor lift setup (just add 4 more relays), or to another AC motor appliance. Here are the links for the key parts from Amazon:

Remote -$10.00
Relays -$7.00 x 4
Power Switch -$6.55
Box -$18.50


The whole thing came to about $75 and that's compared with $400 for a commercial one.

Edit: added the links for the parts

Edit 2: Correction to diagram

are you planning planning? or is the house already started and you've already got bids from your EC for the work?

if you're planning planning, i would suggest considering :

1. in-ceiling speakers for whole-house audio. you can get rough-in rings and just do the wiring, and if you want the speakers later it will save you a fortune in time. especially if you're in a two story dwelling. don't forget volume controls.
   
2. recessed ceiling lights.
   
3. cabinet lights for your kitchen / laundry.
   
4. anticipate more camera drops - bring up twice the runs to the attic you think you'll need. alternately, if you're not in a hot climate, anticipate a switch in the attic instead of a ton of cat6 runs back to your central data cabinet.
   
5. did i mention a central data cabinet? plan on power outlets in that cabinet, for routers / modems.
   
6. are you building in for TV's? pull 3/4" smurf from a recessed box to the data cabinet. this will future-proof your tv mount locations.
   
7. don't forget recessed power / media plates for your tvs. your smurf tubing will feed from the low voltage side to your media cabinet.
   
8. more data drops in the house! cat6 can become anything you need it to, with baluns. so in addition to being a plane data connection, a cat6 cable can replace most any other cable you didn't know you were going to need.
   
9. for your security pre-wire, make them use 18 gauge stranded wire instead of 22 gauge solid. it's much more durable.
   
10. add motions in your living room, family room, hallways, basement, stairwells. they're cheap and can be used for home automation later.
    
11. detached garage? get a 1" conduit run put in for future data.
    
12. basement? attic? get a 1" conduit run put in going from basement to attic for future data.
    
13. pre-wire your own cable (as in TV cable), providing your own demarcation box on the outside of your house, and do not let any rat-bastard cable guys or satellite guys touch your home wiring.
    
14. your cable pre-wiring should not have a single splitter anywhere. it should be a single run from your demarcation box to your data cabinet, and then a multi-point amplifier, and then direct runs to each outlet.
    
    ​
    
    as rossg876 said, it's useful to be able re-pull your data wires in the future. but i'll explain a bit more detailed :
    
    
15. anywhere you know will be a data use point (mounted TV, dedicated computer desk, etc) run a 3/4" (minimum) smurf tube. this will let you upgrade or add cables with ease.
    
16. anywhere that is a simple cat6 run, make sure the contractor does not staple the cable in the wall. also, request that they drill 1/2" holes for all your stud penetrations. this will at least give you a hope of being able to replace the wiring if needed.
    
    ​
    
    > My question is, what kind of cameras/nvr should I be looking for.
    
    
17. don't bother with cameras under 2mp
    
18. don't bother with cameras that claim digital WDR. you need true WDR, 120db.
    
19. only get cameras that support ONVIF.
    
20. keep your cameras & recorder on a different switch than the rest of your equipment.
    
    i've got an electrical contractor that swears up and down about Lorex.
    
    they've got a good price point, and look great. but you can't upgrade the recorders as much as i need for my commercial applications. would probably be a non-issue for residential.
    
    i've had good luck with Hikvision, although the DVR controls are garbage compared to a computer-based recorder. but then again, computer-based recorders are $$$.

just do a diy one. they are cheap fun to make and require not software.

all you need is An encoder some buttons and a box to put it all in.

make your own and save 70$. you can even but what appears to be the same case used here for 7$

https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-Aluminum-Enclosure-Electronic/dp/B005T789RA/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=metal+project+box&qid=1571424757&sr=8-5

Scotchloks! Yes, that would be savage... is this the kind of splice block you mean? https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-CAT5E-Junction-listed/dp/B0059DRC3G

This is the best investment I’ve made. I do a lot of electrical work and it helps me identify the right circuit every single time. It will save a lot of headaches for your project.

/u/SpaceDurr did a full write up of his first bucket build, but the attached box is this

Yup! I used this enclosure but I would recommend not using LED buttons with it because it creates a cable management nightmare on the inside. Normal buttons should be a lot easier; especially low profile clip in buttons opposed to the screw type. I would opt for getting an enclosure that's a bit bigger but I couldn't find anything that would work after looking for a while.

You can get circuit tracers that will do this. Plug one end into the outlet or remove the cover and put clips on the wires by the switch (sending unit) and then use the receiver to identify the breaker or outlets. I have one similar to this that works great.

As a tip, take the wall cover off and label the inside once you find out what does what/where. I’ve written the circuit number inside all of my plates as I upgrade to tamper resistant. In my basement and garage everything has a label maker number on the outside with the breaker number since those are the areas I’m most likely to trip while using power tools.

As promised, here are my sourcing links:

​

• Antenna
  
• Coax
  
• Enclosure
  
• Filter
  
• LNA
  
• SDR
  
• PoE Splitter
  
• Mounting Clamps
  
• Cat6 Outdoor Cable
  
  ​
  
  The rest of it is pretty standard stuff, Raspberry pi, misc hardware from any local hardware store etc...

It's a bit pricey, but this is an enclosure that you can put an access point into. The enclosure is made to be screwed into something (like a wall or ceiling) so it doesn't walk off, plus has the ability to be locked up with a padlock. You'll need to make sure your particular access point will fit in the enclosure.

/u/TouchMyWoody's comment is also applicable - set up MAC address filtering on the switch so that the only thing it will allow to connect is the access point. Be aware that this can be defeated by someone using a MAC address spoofer and is not foolproof. But then, very little is foolproof to someone determined to break it.

While this method is probably preferable to using wire nuts, they do make inline splice adapters for cat5. Although the best solution is just to pull a new cable without any splices.

So first things first buy some "twist wire connectors" like below: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I1PFD4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yeH3Cb9RZTBBT

You may also want to buy a small-ish junction box for your wire connectors to be housed in if the cord is in an obvious area. Might be unnecessary if this is portable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075DG55KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DjH3Cb58QJNNH

Next turn off anything that would supply power to the wires in question. Might need to turn off circuit breakers at your electrical panel.

If you got the junction box, wire the cables into there and give yourself enough slack to where the wires jut out of the box by at least half the width of your fist.

Next feed both same colored wires into the twist connector and twist until hand tight. Repeat for each individual wire pair.

Take out the slack and use electrical tape around either side of the cable to reduce the tension on the wire connectors.

Close the junction box and you're done.

It's far from their intended use case, and may require a bit of "warranty voiding" to get an access point mounted inside, but a non-metallic alarm panel enclosure may meet your needs well. They're generally designed to be tamper-resistant and lockable, and usually are large enough to fit an AP inside.

Downside though is that completely encasing an AP will likely impact the signal a bit. I'm not sure how much, but if it's plastic I don't imagine it'd be that bad. I'm definitely not an expert on RF signal degradation though.

https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-EB1212-1-Electronic-Equipment-Non-Metallic/dp/B00AAU5D6Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Broadband-Weather-Enclosure-Interior/dp/B01N4FSKZM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1549087351&sr=8-7&keywords=alarm+panel+box

>RJ-45 coupler

I actually meant one of these

I'm not using pre-formed cables, I'll be crimping the end myself, but for joining the two cables I was evaluating options. Right now I see options:

- using tape

- these

- RJ-45 coupler + 2 rj45 connectors

- using a keystone jack + rj45 connector

​

Thanks for the pointers!

This seems like it would work for bulky cords

Twin Door Outlet Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IUOG5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vQQVzb93NWYCV

Non-mobile:

• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSRIO
  
• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008J80J1A
  
• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00917Z96S
  
• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXPE8U6
  
  ^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble.

They make a housing for stuff like this where you can plug into the extension cord put the housing on it and in many cases bury it with little to no issues. Let me try to find an example.

Edit: this is just one example. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006EUHT2W/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1524008733&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=outdoor+waterproof+electrical+box&dpPl=1&dpID=41h6DvndVuL&ref=plSrch

I plan on using this to keep everything dry. I'll let you know how it goes if you want.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006EUHT2W

Well I work for a dealer so we just buy direct from the distributor, so I don't have a ton of first hand experience buying online. homesecuritystore.com is one that is often mentioned. You can even find some stuff on Amazon pretty cheap, such as this panel: https://www.amazon.com/VISTA20P-Ademco-Zone-Control-Panel/dp/B000H05W9C

Overall though, since you will likely need to buy multiple items for the system, since professional security systems don't really come as much of a kit...I would recommend you shop around for each of the items you plan to buy...as prices for each item can vary quite a lot.

Here's a link to one on Amazon

> For longevity, you would suggest crimping for each cable into a 8P8C and use a coupler? Not using some punch down method?

Use a punchdown coupler. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Cat5e-Junction-Punch/dp/B0059DRC3G

At my house we use the Koogeek Smart Plugs and put all of our connections inside one of these.

SockitboX - Weatherproof Indoor and Outdoor Electrical Power Cord Connection Enclosure Box – Small Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009RX5GI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hxCgAbYDB0YY5

IME, 66 blocks are considered CAT3 termination points only suitable for voice-grade applications (POTS, extending digital circuits like T1s to another closet, xDSL, etc.). The physical distance of the separation of the pins and the combs on a 66 makes for a really shitty ethernet signal because it totally ruins the twisted-pair's self shielding properties and becomes more like an antenna. You could probably do it at very short distances in a pinch, but you shouldn't depend on this being a go-to thing.

If you're talking about extending ethernet from one end of the building to the other with a 66 block in the middle because there's no home-run, there are other ways.

Try something like this which is CAT5e rated. The 110-style termination blocks keep the pairs as twisted up as possible up to their termination points. That's the main problem you need to solve with ethernet terminations.

Would this box fit the items you listed?

If you are installing it in a sheltered location, and don't live right next to the ocean you should be OK with just slapping it up there.

If you want some more peace of mind, an equipment enclosure would keep it nice and dry with minimal signal degredation;

https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Enclosure-Amphenol-Broadband-Interior/dp/B01N4FSKZM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BHSNB6MV7F8ZND4H235A

​

Or get a Flex HD since it is very similar to the NanoHD but in a slightly different form factor and rated for outdoor indirect exposure. If it is exposed to direct rain I think I would use an equipment enclosure

CMR is referred to as Riser cable, it's specifically designed to go between floors in large buildings, has some fire suppressant properties but not much more (main focus is to stop fires from spreading between floors in riser spaces - there's more to it but I'll be brief).

Riser cable is typically solid, since it's purpose is to be installed to go between floors, then jacked on either end, with common grade stranded cable to run to a switch or some equipment; therefore the riser cable is tied down between the floors, and doesn't move a lot, so it doesn't need the mobility of stranded cabling. Stranded can be bent and flexed much more before breaking the end-to-end connection. Unfortunately because of the solid cable, it's not going to be very resistant to being broken, and it's likely you sheered a full connection off. There are 8 in the cable, so 1 of 8 being non-functional, you might lose gigabit capaiblity, the ability to send, or the ability to receive, depending on which specific wire inside the cable is broken. IMO, from the symptom of having a connection but no internet, would mean your tx wires are severed, or compromised. your PC cannot successfully send a request to the rest of the network, so the network does not know to reply; on the same token, your PC is getting a carrier from the RX lines (from the network to your PC), so it "sees" the connection is there.

The only way to be sure is to test the cable and verify, if you don't have a tester, you can maybe use a multi-meter, but it gets tricky if you don't have a helper (unless you can bring the two ends together).

So you have two options:

1. Re-run the entire cable. It's cleaner, neater, provides the highest quality connection and longevity of the link without issues. I would probably go this route if you have the cable, then use the length for two smaller runs, if possible.
   
   
2. patch it together. you have essentially two options for this: if you're a good cabler, and you have the smallest amount of slack, you can get a junction box, and punch down the two sides. along the same lines, if you're not great at punchdowns, you can crimp the two ends and use a coupler. same idea. Your other option is to get two jacks (keystone or otherwise), punch down both sides, which will shorten each cable slightly, then use a very small patch cable to bridge the two connections; this is the only option if there's no slack and you're intent on repairing rather than replacing.
   
   Links for the weary:
   
   Junction: https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-CAT5E-Junction-listed/dp/B0059DRC3G
   
   Coupler: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Coupler-Ethernet-Extender-Adapter/dp/B016B13U9Y
   
   Jacks: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Punch-Down-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6
   
   Ends: https://www.amazon.com/Cybertech-Cat5e-RJ-45-Ethernet-Connectors/dp/B00LG6DQUI
   
   those are just to get you started, there's lots of manufacturers that follow the specifications (TIA/EIA 568/569), so by no means do you have to buy what I've linked; I just want you to have an idea of what you're looking for. I don't necessarily endorse one brand or manufacturer over another for this, I actually don't know any of the brands I linked, so buyer beware, as usual.
   
   Side note: Riser should not be used for Plenum space (anything relating to HVAC); doing so can create toxic smoke that's vented throughout the building in the event of a fire. It also violates fire code, so please be careful where you use Riser cable. in wall, along baseboards, etc, is fine. Anything to do with HAVC, dropped ceilings, through vents... needs to be plenum grade.

After seeing what /u/SgtDwightSchrute1 built the other day, I wanted to give it a go as well! I took most of the parts he used and linked in his thread, but I went with a few more switches as well as a set of POV buttons that have a mode switch to switch them from POV directions to an X-Y axis. The Green button is for the POV mode, and I also moved the Mode LED to the face of the box so you can tell what mode it is in.

I also added some vinyl carbon fiber wrap to give it a nice finish!

Parts links which are the same as /u/SgtDwightSchrute1 for the most part:

Button box: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSRIO

Control board: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK

Push buttons: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T45I7GQ

Toggle switches: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154JY8OA

Carbon Fiber Vinyl Film: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059XCVVO

The LED is a 5mm Green 18mcd with a holder I had around, but any LED would work, just don't go super bright!

Original inspiration here: https://www.reddit.com/r/hoggit/comments/acn7il/scrutes_cheap_dcs_button_box_diy/?st=JQIL5FJK&sh=c37d0a0a

First, you should talk to your extended family to see what they use in their home. They may be able to bring the larger, more expensive items (e.g. baby gates) with them depending on how they're traveling. But I've also made a list below.

Full disclosure: Most of this comes from research and talking to my parent friends since I only have a two week old. Some of these might be unnecessary depending on your home - they're just suggestions.

• Cabinet latches - You'll want them for drawers, cabinet doors, the refrigerator, and even your toilet seat cover. There are many different kinds, so shop around.
  
  
• Cord wraps - If you have venetian blinds (or something similar), you'll want to be able to tie up the excess cord since it's a choking hazard.
  
  
• Outlet covers - they make different kinds: covers that plug directly into outlets, plastic boxes that completely cover outlets that already have cords plugged into them, and cases that go around surge protectors.
  
  
• Stove knob covers if the knobs on your range/oven can be reached by a toddler. These are especially important if you have a gas range and don't want your house to blow up.
  
  
• Door knob covers - In case the toddler or four year old wants to wander into rooms it shouldn't.
  
  
• Baby Gates - if you have stairs, you'll need a gate at the top and bottom
  
  
• Solid plastic door stoppers - instead of the metal door stoppers with plastic toppers, which can be pried off and choked on. I'm not sure how necessary these are, but they're worth reviewing.
  

I got one of these: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Industrial-Solutions-U054P-Receptacle/dp/B000BQWP56 and I just wrap the core into a circle and loop it over the box itself when it's not in use.

I've had those go bad inside the wall. No thanks.

If it's permanent, it gets punched down.

Here is the wiring enclosure:


Leviton 47605-42W SMC Structured Media Enclosure with Cover, 42-Inch, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009KIN0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a96zCb4MZ9NW3


And bingo on the RGB PC fan covering the modem. Split off the molex and soldered the wires to an AC/DC adapter for power to an outlet. With the enclosure it gets hot. Another fan is on the NVR.

I can't seem to add another picture in the reply but I cut holes in the cover for intake and exhaust fans as well.

Edit: Humbled by joining Reddit https://imgur.com/gallery/zyZ9dI6

I attached one of these to the exterior of my house: https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-NBF-32016-Plastic-Economy/dp/B005UPANU2. Weather stripping between the box and wall. Then ran a ~1.5" section of PVC through a similarly sized hole in the wall. I used threaded PVC so I could put flange inside the box to keep it tight against the weather stripping. Oh, yea, sealing the PVC to the siding with some silicone sealant (spray foam would work too, just didn't have any on hand).

http://imgur.com/LZ6mnZx (yes, I know, I still need to connect that arrestor to a ground rod)

Cat5e or Cat6 junction box, whichever is appropriate for your cable.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Cat5e-Junction-Punch/dp/B0059DRC3G

I got you. I have a similar setup. So here’s what you need.


Wilson Electronics Wideband Directional Antenna 700-2700 MHz, 50 Ohm (314411) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J14YEHQ/

Buy two of these. Place on a pole as high as you can get it. Mount them 45° and -45°. That’s how LTE is polarized.

Example: https://www.solwise.co.uk/images/images3g/4g-ren6702709-lpda-5.png


Heavy Duty Weather Proof Multi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4FSKZM

Put the M1 in this on the pole too.

Use this to send power up the Outdoor cat6 cable:


TP-LINK TL-PoE150S PoE Injector Adapter, IEEE 802.3af Compliant, up to 100 Meters (325 Feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PS9E5I/

And this to pull the power out of the Cat6


ANVISION Gigabit PoE Splitter,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PW9FJNT

Then convert the mini to USB C:


ARKTEK USB-C Adapter, USB Type C (Male) to Micro USB (Female) Syncing Data Transfer and Charging Converter for Chromebook Galaxy S10 Note 9, Pixel 3 and More (Black/White, Pack of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0ZAJXO/

Ok.

That’ll get you where you want. Don’t get a booster or anything else. It’ll make your signal slower.

Put the whole thing on the pole because if you leave it inside you’ll get a lot of signal loss along those long cables.

———

Now the M1 is a 4x4 MIMO which claims it can get you gigabit speeds. But once you plug in the external antennas you’ll get 2x2 MIMO. the only way to solve this is a bit hacky.

You’ll need this:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183651187710

(This isn’t me but it’s the only guy I’ve seen selling these wires)

Then you’ll need two of these:

weBoost Outdoor Directional Yagi Antenna with N Female Connector 301111 for 700/800/900 MHz Band https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006H4FVM/

These will be you MAIN antennas. While the other covered ones will be your additional.

To explain. LTE towers send out 45° 800mhz, -45° 800mhz, 45° 2700 MHz, and -45° 2700 MHz You need an antenna for each. This will get you the fastest speed and best reliability. But this is hacky. I haven’t done this, YET. I’ve just planned it all out. I’m using a LB1211 with two covered yagis. I’ve gotten up to 70mbps with just that 2x2 setup (in a valley).

I plan on getting an M1 with 4 antennas soon, but right now my pole situation sucks. I need to figure out a better solution first. Then I’ll be comfortable spending that much more money. But just getting those two covered yagis and putting you M1 up until the pole, you’ll get a much better issue

It looks like Masada is the company that installed the alarm system. That keypad is made by Honeywell. To be 100% sure what system it is you'll have to find the main panel. You'll be looking for a metal box like this.

The box is grey or beige and often has a lock on it. Often it will say Honeywell, Ademco or Vista on the outside. Open the box and look inside, there should be stickers on the inside door or even on some of the components. My guess is it's some model of Vista panel like a Vista-10SE, Vista 10, Vista 20, etc. When you find out what kind of panel it is, then look up the manual. For instance, the Vista 15 & Vista 20P.

Follow the instructions on the how to change codes. Easier said than done. To change a code a code, you have to know the user number it was assigned to. Best example I have: assigned seating. You can only place 1 4-digit code in a user number just like when you're assigning seats, only one person per seat. If you put a code in a user number that already has a code, that old code is gone.

As long as you guys have only been using 1 code, you all may well be using the master code which is user 02. Just follow the instructions and then try out your old code and the new code. If the new code works and the old code doesn't, you're golden. Otherwise, I'm not sure what user number the code you've been using has been assigned to and don't know what the master code is.

Worst case scenario, you can call Masada and either have them help you. They might want to do a service call but their charge might be cheaper than the damage your former employees can cost you.

Good luck!

Ethernet cable should not be cut or spliced in any casual way. Definitely do not solder it. You need to maintain the proper twisting of the pairs and if you just unravel some of the cable to splice it yourself you will ruin the twisting and therefore risk reducing the capacity of the cable.

The "right" way to do this is probably to re-run the whole cable. But you can buy a CAT5e junction box to help you splice the cable properly. (Watch a Youtube video if you are not sure how to do it, and make sure you match up the pairs properly. It is very easy but there is a proper method.) If you can find a short section of in-wall-rated CAT5e cable then you can run it up another 4 feet and terminate in a keystone jack again (you could reuse the one you have). If possible try to keep the junction box accessible behind the current hole (put a blank cover plate over it) so you can access it in the future if need be.

The other (cheap) thing you could do is just buy an ethernet cable and thread it down the wall yourself and just plug one end into the keystone jack.

Other possible alternatives:

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Junction-Punch-listed/dp/B0059DRCGI

https://www.amazon.com/MANHATTAN-Modular-Inline-Coupler-504768/dp/B002HMTSK2

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-CAT5E-Junction-listed/dp/B0059DRC3G

I'm surprised the Cat 6 one (the first one) is the least expensive, of course that would also work for Cat5/5E.

Something like THIS won't work?

Are you looking for a closed project box ? Or a smaller USB?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T789RA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

note that I barely got all of the components to fit in that box, but it's a great size!

Amazon, see link below.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BSRIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

New cable isn't possible. After some more research, some seem to recommend a cat5e junction box. Do you have any experience with these? The point where the cables are joined would be stuffed back into the wall fwiw.

I did the Vista 20P option with wired 6160 keypad. Programming was easy enough - especially if you use the work book that's part of the installation guide to plan out your system before you go pressing keys. Love the EVL4 and am considering paying for their monitoring service. The EyesOn app works with my Apple watch too - which was an unexpected bonus. I'm 6 weeks out from the installation and am very happy with it. I replaced a Vista 15 panel with wired sensors with the 20p that I got off of amazon.ca for $70 Canadian! I was able to keep all of my sensors - essentially plug and play!

This looks like an awesome idea! This also looks like quite the electrical fire hazard.

I'd suggest a sturdier enclosure like THIS. You could route some receptacle sized holes in it and get either bolts or self-tapping plastic screws to secure them.

A lot of the other parts like the Pi and your usb power supply could be mounted with VHB Tape. That stuff is amazing.

This is the WHOLE panel?
https://www.amazon.com/VISTA20P-Ademco-Zone-Control-Panel/dp/B000H05W9C

I use an outdoor receptacle in rain/snow/sleet/all weather conditions and it works great with no issues.

Here's the box that I've got: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Industrial-Solutions-U054P-Receptacle/dp/B000BQWP56

This is the one I used: https://www.amazon.ca/BUD-Industries-NBF-32016-Plastic-Economy/dp/B005UPANU2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=weatherproof+box

I have an Eve remote temp/humidity sensor in the box, and it doesn't hit more than 33C on hot days (it's not in direct sun). You could always add a small PoE fan and cut out a hole (add a screen) in the back.

EDIT: You'll also need some of these: https://www.amazon.ca/Zilong-Waterproof-Adjustable-3-5-13mm-Glands/dp/B076C83P21

You could buy a weatherproof panel. Something like this or this

I was looking at the same issue recently, and this seemed to be the best fit for my needs: https://www.amazon.com/SOCKiTBOX-Weatherproof-Connection-Electrical-Transformers/dp/B018HHMBW2/

I didn't try it yet, as I ended up just modifying a standard covered plug enclosure to accommodate the wall wart my lights use, and the rest of the system was waterproof as-is.

Pinfox 2 Pack Black Waterproof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M5SZNR9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is for the box,
Edit: it came with two boxes

Your wish is my command sir. linky

Glad I got a two pack because I fucked up the layout of the first one.

Added a few things to make my life easier and with a few showers overnight cooks I don’t have to worry about a thing.

CMS Magneitcs Ceramic Magnet Hook 1 1/4" in Diameter with 18 LB Holding Power 6-Count

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015V0D1CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nt8RBb749RG27

CMS Magnetics Magnetic Tool Tray 10.75"x4.5"x1.25" Black Tool Organizer

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ54HLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qn8RBbDTCFZ0D

SockitboX - Weatherproof Indoor and Outdoor Electrical Power Cord Connection Enclosure Box – Small Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009RX5GI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8n8RBbTWDABST

Also added a few pictures of what I started smoking last night.

I've used this box in my two builds. It fits all the components

http://www.amazon.com/Hammond-1591ESBK-ABS-Project-Black/dp/B0002BSRIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459303304&sr=8-1&keywords=project+box

Found this if whatever you're securing fits. https://smile.amazon.com/Safety-Innovations-10408-Twin-Outlet/dp/B007IUOG5A/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i2?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=9Y1HWPEZ001GA23QMM81&pf_rd_r=9Y1HWPEZ001GA23QMM81&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1cded295-23b4-40b1-8da6-7c1c9eb81d33&pf_rd_p=1cded295-23b4-40b1-8da6-7c1c9eb81d33&pf_rd_i=desktop

maybe something like this. https://www.amazon.com/SockitboX-Weatherproof-Electrical-Connection-Enclosure/dp/B006EUHT2W?th=1

I used these

Box - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UPANU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Box Insert - https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-NBX-32916-PL-Plastic-Internal/dp/B005UPE83U/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005UPE83U&pd_rd_r=38ca7968-edbf-11e8-8842-7d002f82d6fa&pd_rd_w=A8lwS&pd_rd_wg=QT89F&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=JFVRZXED3FN2MWQ13E95&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=JFVRZXED3FN2MWQ13E95

​

Works great. There are no punch outs or anything so I drilled my own holes and used these water proof strain reliefs. https://www.amazon.com/Lantee-Cable-Gland-Waterproof-Connector/dp/B07BGVV8N1/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542826797&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=waterproof+gland&psc=1 Just make sure your cables will fit through the gland nuts.

Thanks for the recommendation. I ended up purchasing one myself. The price seemed fair and it looks like exactly what I was looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/SOCKiTBOX-Model-Weatherproof-Electrical-Large/dp/B018HHMBW2

Then you can use a USB DAC. The WesionTEK Khadas Tone Board (generic version) would work, it’s just a DAC that doesn’t have a housing (I think fits, you just drill out the 4 holes), it’s really good (If Windows, you need to download the firmware, it’s plug and play with Mac and Linux). To just RCA out from DAC to RCA in on SYS.

Otherwise, the Monoprice Monolith USB DAC would work, you just need 3.5mm to RCA cables to connect to the SYS.

You should use a Circuit Tracer -

https://www.google.com/webhp?q=nema+enclosure#q=nema+enclosure&safe=off&tbm=shop

Lots of options for cheap, also check Amazon/eBay.

$20, but not sure if big enough:
https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-NBF-32016-Plastic-Economy/dp/B005UPANU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491863938&sr=8-1&keywords=nema+enclosure

Ok, almost any 80mm computer fan will work (provided that it has a flat face to it):
http://www.amazon.com/KingWin-Long-Bearing-CF-08LB-Black/dp/B002YFSHPY/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1421330687&sr=8-11&keywords=80mm+fan
http://www.amazon.com/Bgears-b-Blaster-80mm-Bearing-Extreme/dp/B0043GQC6S/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1421330791&sr=8-32&keywords=80mm+fan

Magnet suggestion:
http://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Magnets-inch-Disc-N48/dp/B001KV38ES/ref=pd_sim_k_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=100B2PQECYWG45ZYYRMR

Project box:
http://www.amazon.com/Hammond-1591ESBK-ABS-Project-Black/dp/B0002BSRIO/ref=pd_sim_indust_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1B7JFAHDACTFVK2AZ15M
(Get the ES model, it's bigger, which means more room for your flask)

Switch:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPBRA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002ZPBRA&linkCode=as2&tag=socimumb-20

Rheostat:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009QFU9H4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009QFU9H4&linkCode=as2&tag=brewprof-20

Stirbar:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ACNFDQ/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001ACNFDQ&linkCode=as2&tag=socimumb-20

Power Supply: (Most people use an old cell phone charger, I used a usb cable, plugged into a modern phone charger)
http://www.amazon.com/PowerLine-90367-Universal-Power-Adapter/dp/B00CWR39TI/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Toss in some super glue to hold it all together, a couple of nuts and bolts to mount everything with, and that should just about get you there.

Have you considered an aluminum project box?

Something similar to this -- project box? They come every shape and size you might need.

Sockit Boxes SOCKiTBOX Model 330 BK Weatherproof Electrical Box, Large - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018HHMBW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_lEuUCb12DZFTS

Adafruit’s website has enclosures you can drill through or ones with removable plastic holes to make custom cases.

Edit:

• LeMotech ABS Plastic Dustproof Case: They come in various sizes, though this one should be good for you
  
  
• DIN Rail Slotted: Screw one of these into the bottom of the box to mount your pi. That link is a 20 pack though you only need 1.
  
  
• Comidox Set of 5 PCB Din C45 Rail: Snap two of these onto your mounting rail and screw your pi to it.

I would reowk the jack using SF Cable RJ45 Cat5e Junction Box, Punch Down Type https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0059DRC3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1LzVDb5AXSF4Z and reuse the plate so the cable is hidden.

Sure! This is the keypad I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Security-6160-Ademco-Display/dp/B000H05WDS

And this is the actual control panel:

https://www.amazon.com/VISTA20P-Ademco-Zone-Control-Panel/dp/B000H05W9C

Both came with the house and integrate with ST after adding an Envisalink. There are some DSC-branded setups that can work the same as the Honeywell also.

You could buy the system and keypad with wireless receiver if you're ambitious. There is a somewhat steep learning curve involved with programming the system yourself, but there are plenty of guides and forums on the internet.

Visto 20p (good for a residence): http://www.amazon.com/VISTA20P-Ademco-Zone-Control-Panel/dp/B000H05W9C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452520211&sr=8-1&keywords=vista+20p

Keypad with wireless receiver for the modules you have already: http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-6162rf-Receiver-security-Replacement/dp/B00G3DBUWA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452520317&sr=8-1&keywords=ademco+6162rf

https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Innovations-10408-Twin-Outlet/dp/B007IUOG5A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=outlet+cover+box&qid=1572472753&sr=8-3

Search for outdoor weatherproof enclosure on Amazon, I was considering something like this (link) sometime ago, but never bought it.

My brother built me a waterproof box out of a plastic container for our T-Mobile cell phone repeater since we put it outside sometimes, but it's not for leaving out in like a torrential downpour, but for everyday weather it works great.

Get some of these and try doing PoE:

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Outdoor-Weatherproof-Enclosure-Cabinet/dp/B0042ZKWBG

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-ZoneFlex-Unleashed-Dual-Band-9U1-R310-US02/dp/B01FV0OIJM

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B002HFKSS0

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005P-Gigabit-Ethernet-compliant/dp/B076HZFY3F

The APs are special ones that have a software based antenna that improves range. They are the lower end (but newer) versions of this:

https://www.evdoinfo.com/content/view/5077/64/

The enclosures is intended to make it safe to use them outdoors. The outdoor cable can be buried (although it should go below the frost line). The switch is designed to power the APs. If the cables are not long enough, you will need outdoor range extenders and a beefier switch that supports 802.3at to provide the additional power needed by the range extender. These would work:

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Repeater-Amplifier-Ethernet-TPE-E100/dp/B00SDFF6S0

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Unmanaged-Rackmount-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B07788WK5V

If you need to go even further than 200m, you could probably run your own dedicated low voltage DC powerlines alongside armored fiber cable and use media converters to convert from fiber to twisted pair. You would need a switch that supports SFP modules and to get a SFP transceiver for each end.

Yep. Although the smaller solar panel I linked to comes with a controller (a bit simpler one), I used these. It looks like maybe amazon doesn’t carry them anymore so if you want that one might try eBay. I’ve bought it as “Anself Solar charge controller” as well as “Docooler Solar charge controller” it’s just a 12v controller.


I actually have started using this one on my bigger setups because it has more info:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZZMDSQ

But they are all basically glorified switches that monitor the output of the panel and battery and connect them when the energy on the panel is high enough and disconnect when it’s lower so you’re not draining the battery.


The project box is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T990I0
With this backing plate inside to screw into to mount the timer and controller:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UPE83U

Oh and if you want it to be water tight when you run cables through holes in the sides you’re gonna want something like these to go with it:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ03AUQ/
I’d imagine you could get a single one from an electric supply store if you didn’t want a set.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FU9KGSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would have gone a little bigger if I had known better

Sure. Here's the shopping list:

Project Box (5 pack, $5.80)

SMA Connectors (4 Pack, $5.85)

SMA Pigtails (Need 2, $4.85/ea)

SMA Extension Cable (Need 2, $8.50/ea) (3 feet)

RAM Suction Cup Mount ($15.99)

Start out by making four small pilot holes in the project box where you see both the connectors and antennas on mine.

Use the screws included with the RAM mount to go through the bottom left and top right corners of the bottom of the project box. This almost perfectly lines up with the holes in the suction cup, but make sure to use a template. You will not use the ball piece that comes with the suction cup.

Connect an SMA Female-Female connector on one end of each of the pigtails. Tighten with a wrench and pliers, but careful not to mess up the thread.

Enlarge the two holes on the small side of the project box to fit the female-female connectors (that you just attached) through, barely. Use generous hot glue to fix them in place on the inside, with the screw end from the SMA pigtail being pushed all the way up to the project box wall to allow as much of the connector to stick out as possible. Note, you may need to apply pressure to keep the connectors as straight and tight as possible until the glue cools/dries completley.

Take the other ends of the pigtail connectors (with the included nuts and other stuff) and put them through the other two holes on opposite long sides of the project box (Make sure you don't mix up left and right), enlarging the holes as necessary to ensure they fit. Use the included fittings to fix them in place firmly. (Use a wrench to tighten)

Stuff the pigtails in the project box, again verifying that you didn't mix up left and right. Close it up, connect the 3 foot SMA cables to the plugs on the bottom, and wire them into your Stratux. You should be good to go!

Photo

Here is the mobile version of your link

It's not a rack but a panel in a closet where all the wires go back to. This is also where all the coax lines go to as well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009KIN0A/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

All the cable / networking equipment can be mounted in the panel.

P.S. I think I am just going to blow the budget and go with the US-16-150w. That also gives me lots of room to grow in the future and gives me the full Unified setup I want.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FU9KGSM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don't have any design experience, I would suggest just buying a project box. There are all kinds of sizes, colors etc. example below

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BSRIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487735355&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=project+box

This is not an outdoor outlet but you can drop it waterproof electrical box and it will work well. I've used this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006EUHT2W

Thank you flipflop. I haven't responded to replies yet but yours was very informative and I was your first upvote ^^.

To add:

Yes I'd probably be fine running an extension cord, but do I want to? No.

I'm looking at this from the perspective of installing a permanent electrical device in the home that could be there for the next 20+ years and to potentially new owners.

New codes even require range hoods to be permanently wired. A range hood is infinitely times simpler than a switch... it has a light bulb and a fan and that's it.

So Yeah I think I'm going to romex a receptical in, and get a home media enclosure to recess into the drywall.

Awesome I just finished mine last week. Already got a beer fermenting in the new ferm chamber.

For those asking it looks like the same project box I used http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BSRIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found it to be way too small and tight in there. What were your thoughts?

If I build another one I want to build it in a box that would have the STC face and the outlet on the same panel and then be pretty deep for the STC. Similar to the boxes this guy uses. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrdOpk10MkE

I bought this an hid it on my porch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006EUHT2W/

It is really good at keep water out, rained on the box most of october when I had halloween lights up and no water got in. Used it last winter too with no problems.

Haha cool. I thought it looked familiar. I just spent the last few days ordering a bunch of parts including boxes.
I almost ordered the one you have, but decided on one with a hinged lid and latches. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UPANU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I put mine in an outdoor weather-resistant box, linked here. I had to return the small one because it was too small, but the large fits the power brick and the connector. I’ve had it like this all winter, through rain and snow, and it’s stays dry and is fine. I have no clue if this is even necessary, but I feel better knowing that the connection points stay dry

Do you have a breaker panel in the garage with two empty slots, that can handle 50 Amps? You can install a 240V NEMA 14-50 outlet for about $50 in parts, if you can DIY it. An electrician will charge you $200-300 in labor. Part of that may or may not go towards a permit. If your area requires a permit for such work and you pay an electrician, insist on seeing that permit. The heavy gauge wire is the most expensive thing if your breaker panel is far away. If you have to fish wire from a basement, it becomes an entirely different project. That heavy gauge wire is not easy to work with, in tight spaces.

I don't have a garage, so getting a weather proof outlet to my driveway from my basement was a little more expensive and tedious:

• 25' of 6/3 wire - $60
  
• Raintite Box - $35
  
• GF Breaker - $106
  
  Indoors, you shouldn't need ground fault protection, so your breaker should only be about $20. Get the brand that's compatible with your panel. Without the outdoor box, a 14-50 outlet shouldn't run you more than $15. If you have a panel near by, just get the length of wire you need. If you're not fishing through the walls, you probably need to run the wire through a conduit from the panel to the outlet box. Check your local codes, or pull a permit like a good citizen. The inspector will likely be more than happy to tell you exactly what you need to do, if you ask.

I ordered a Project box (ABS box) I don't have it all put together yet. I'm waiting on a few more switches to arrive. The box i ordered isn't exactly want i wanted but it was as close as i could get. If you have any ideas for enclosures let me know. Walmart carries a metal clipboard that is like a box also that i think would work good but idk.

Here's a list of all the parts.

Project box:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BSRIO


Power Socket Plugs:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008J80J1A

Power Inlet:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00917Z96S

Temp Controller:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OXPE8U6

I already had some wire and the crimp on connectors.

What would be the best way to run IEC power cables out of this enclosure while maintaining its weather seal? I'm thinking drilling a hole large enough to fit the IEC connectors through and installing some sort of rubber gasket, but I'm not sure. Any help would be appreciated.

Edit: the cables will be running to this temperature controller.