Best isolation transformers according to redditors
We found 173 Reddit comments discussing the best isolation transformers. We ranked the 31 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 173 Reddit comments discussing the best isolation transformers. We ranked the 31 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Sure you can. It'll cost you $14:
https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA
/u/smushkan has given you a very good answer on the disadvantages of camera mounted microphones.
I also agree with /u/Sherman14209 that Tascam makes better recorders than Zoom in this price range.
That said, here's why you should avoid both the Rode VideoMic "Pro" and the H4n:
Microphone
If you ever plan to put your mic on a boom and run a long cable ([here] (http://wistia.com/learning/choosing-a-microphone) is why you would want to do that), you should avoid consumer mics with "unbalanced" 3.5mm output, such as the Rode Videomic "Pro" (VMP).
Unbalanced output from consumer mics is subject to Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) over long cable runs.
The 3 pin XLR output from a real pro mic, on the other hand, would be balanced - reducing susceptibility to RFI and noise.
In addition, a pro shotgun mic (such as the [$229 (on sale) Azden SGM-250] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XWG2YBW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00XWG2YBW&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)) will give you better performance than the similarly priced Rode VMP, e.g.:
If you decide to plug the Azden directly into the camera, you will need a [$22.95 Hosa MIT-156 XLR to 3.5mm transformer/ adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FC4YR58/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00FC4YR58&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).
Recorder
Instead of the H4n, I recommend the [$229 (on sale) Tascam DR-70D with built-in mics] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OY6718K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00OY6718K&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and a [$5 cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G7Q53Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004G7Q53Y&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) to connect it to your camera.
If you get the Azden, and start out mounting it on top of the camera, you'll also need a [$6.90 cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001L9AVXU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001L9AVXU&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) to connect it to the recorder.
With 4 tracks and 4 locking XLR inputs - this recorder also has best form factor in its class. You can mount it below your camera (as seen [here] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOwlV2VLVFNWyzNeFzAkQSiG4_LXclYs-mLWuBLnJbhNmMvRKNyTSvKUL54AKLbIA/photo/AF1QipML1s8TVA3Doq2H_oOuTJQdtnPlesJJHZCOnWXw?key=cHlwV1VONzVRZThGT1VybVJYUThBQ0M0eC1zTnlB) with the older DR-60D and my GH2) rather than rigging it up on top of the camera with a cage or the hot shoe. (which is what you would have to do with the H4n).
Tascam also advertises the DR-70D's 20-40,000Hz frequency response (at 96kHz) and 92dB+ signal to noise ratio on its [specs page] (http://tascam.com/product/dr-70d/specifications/).
These numbers are not published for the H4n either on its [specs page] (https://www.zoom-na.com/products/field-video-recording/field-recording/zoom-h4n-handy-recorder#specs) or in the "Specifications" on page 147 of the [Operation Manual] (https://www.zoom.co.jp/sites/default/files/products/downloads/pdfs/E_H4nSP_0.pdf), as far as I can tell.
Even though I own the Zoom H1, I can't really recommend Zoom recorders until they start publishing their frequency response and signal to noise numbers.
Bottom line
If you can afford it, buy a mic and a recorder. If you can't, start with a high quality recorder that mounts below your camera and get a decent mic as soon as you can.
Hope this is helpful, good luck with your new video endeavor and best of the holidays!
This one is plastic if you’ll be needing it for RF gear: Leviton 49605-30W RF-Transparent Structured Media Enclosure for Wireless Home Networks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYXBKS6/
Transformer input: 120VAC, 60 Hz (standard US)
Transformer output: 24VAC, 25VA
"VAC" means Volts AC. This transformer outputs AC current, not DC. "VA" is Volt-Amps, which is basically the power output.
Here's one on Amazon that would probably work:
http://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1462551934&sr=8-5&keywords=ac+transformer+24v
It's a bit of overkill at 40VA, but like I said, I think it would work just fine.
I would guess it's electrical/grounding.
Plug laptop into an isolation transformer and not directly into a wall socket and that might remove any hum: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH
Or maybe try to get an external DAC, and connect that DAC to the laptop via optical cable rather than USB - optical cable isn't electrical so wouldn't transmit any grounding hum or anything like that.
This is the transformer I used: MG ELECTRONICS MGT2420 TRANSFORMER,24VAC 20VA UL APPROVED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010GR07O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mxnesFLaQ7Kdh
I have a heat only system as well. My old thermostat only used two wires. I called ecobee and we were trying to get 24v power to the ecobee. I ended up buying a transformer from Amazon and used the power from there.
External Transformer plug into power supply wires coming from this adapter connect to RC and C terminal and thermostat wire R wire to RH terminal and W wire w1 terminal.
This is the transformer I went with bc it woukd be easier for me.
MG ELECTRONICS MGT2420 TRANSFORMER,24VAC 20VA UL APPROVED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010GR07O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6YxeAbX9XCVRH
Well, first thing, don't trust the standard wire colors on this installation.
That being said, if you want to use the existing wiring, you can get 24v to your 'C' terminal with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA
Your call. The most difficult would be to pull new t-stat wire from your A/C to the best position that you want for the Ecobee.
I like your chosen t-stat because it can pair with remote sensors, for added efficiency. And you can connect it to your home network. It is a good choice.
Really hard to say. Depends on the source and nature of the noise. Best, of course, would be to find what is pissing in the pool and fix it. It could be that a "conditioner" will help, but those are usually just churched-up voltage regulators. What needs to happen is you need to magnetically isolate each element of your power (hot, neutral.. you've already lifted the ground) to see where the noise is coming from.
Also, as you should know, if the speaker requires a safety ground, then you shouldn't run without it. Lifting AC grounds for troubleshooting is fine, but you shouldn't run that way.
Edit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006HPFH/ref=asc_df_B00006HPFH5139298/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00006HPFH&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194017009123&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10338180432329554974&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019608&hvtargid=pla-311461649184
Those terminals are a low voltage output. With a tiny transformer like that, very low current. What is it, 24VAC?
This is a newer and bigger one, terminals are still exposed.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-ELECTRONICS-MGT2420-TRANSFORMER-APPROVED/dp/B0010GR07O
Ok - the following should help you get your thermostat installed:
Elk TRG2440 successfully with ecobee Smart Si and ecobee3 thermostats.
But this one will work:
https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA
Is there any way you can just power it with a separate transformer like this one?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007N5LJK
That’s what I’m doing with two of my four ecobees and they’ve been great.
Hi /u/saientific - the Zoom H4n has noisy preamplifiers - if you decide to go with a Zoom, you may want to consider the [£229 Zoom H5] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=181460355481&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) instead.
If budget is an issue, you may want to consider the less expensive [£69 Zoom H1] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003QKBVYK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B003QKBVYK&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21). This recorder has a single 3.5mm mic input instead of the more expensive recorders' twin XLR inputs, so you will need a [£22.91 Hosa MIT-156 XLR to 3.5mm transformer/adapter] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FC4YR58/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00FC4YR58&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) in order to accept input from professional mics such as the [£148 Rode NTG-2 shotgun mic] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00093ESSI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00093ESSI&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21).
No matter which recorder you buy, you should also invest in a set of [£69 Sony MDR7506 monitoring headphones] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AJIF4E/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B000AJIF4E&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) to prevent surprises in the editing suite.
With your recorder, headphones, shotgun, a [£9 shock mount] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00KXQIY86/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00KXQIY86&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21), a [£69 Rode boom pole] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00139PYEY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00139PYEY&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) and good technique you will be able to get the microphone to within a meter of your actors/interviewees and record high quality sound.
Hope this is helpful and best of luck with your venture into videography!
Bill
Hello /u/reypro - with your budget, I would get a Panasonic FZ200 and a top mounted professional shotgun mic. If you can get close enough to your subjects, you should be able to hear what they are saying.
Here's a list of the equipment you would need:
http://youtu.be/98QV1eN5rhQ
If you set the camera to "iA" (Panasonic's automatic mode), you should have a simple, autofocusing camera with a power zoom that even a novice can use to produce usable video and sound.
Hope this is helpful and good luck with your interviews!
Worse case you can install a second transformer. It's like $10 for the transformer and like $2-5 for the doorbell wire
Edit: you can even get something like this to make it even easier for you to install. It connects right to an outlet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010PKVMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_SVjAybR23EBCR
If you are only using the 5V/ less the computer has a reset-able fuse( arduinos also have another one built in) that will protect from short circuits if you are still really concerned I use this to protect my computer from the Arduino when it handles high voltage : HiLetgo ADUM3160 B0505S 1500V USB to USB Voltage Isolator Module Support 12Mbps 1.5Mbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07235PR4V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NZWGAb9M6RGAF
You could try using a USB isolator.
https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-ADUM3160-Voltage-Isolator-Support/dp/B07235PR4V/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518380541&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+isolator
Yes.
On the Ecobee
AC wires: RC, Y and G
Heat Wires: RH, W
Now here is where it get's tricky, you need a common wire. You have three possibilities to get it depending on your setup.
> Is it safe to run extention cords to the actual grounded outlets instead?
Safer IMO.
> Now the issue is that I have AC units as well as all my entertainment systems all plugged on that one ungrounded circuit (closest outlets to the devices).
Couldn't be worse.
The A/C units have those GFCI plugs, right?
Worry more about the TV stuff. You could lose the lot.
A GFCI will not protect your electronics. Neither will the best surge protector. If you can't get a proper grounded outlet, your next best option is an isolation transformer. You'll need the next size up from your load: 300W computer, 60W monitor, use a 500 W (or VA) isolation transformer. Won't hurt to plug it into a surge suppressor.
Example: PHC ISO-500 500 Watts AC Isolation Transformer
Note that a Step Up / Step Down Voltage Transformer will NOT help.
Honeywell 1361-GT Transformer, 16.5Vac, 40Va, 2.4A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MR70NT6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kNlsDbK7JQWRQ
Well, since all four wires to the t-stat are spoken for, you can pull another wire, or cheat:
https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA
T-stat does not care where the power comes from. Does not have to be the furnace or A/C.
I picked up one of these.
Elk TRG2440 24VAC, 40 VA AC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007N5LJK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Mine is wired in directly using this
Works perfect for me and registers a solid power rating in the app.
OK, do you have easy access to the boiler 24vac transformer? If not, you need to buy a plug-in like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523549249&sr=8-1&keywords=plug+in+24vac+transformer
The new wiring scheme will be this: Receiver Red connect to current boiler Red terminal. Receiver White connect to current boiler White terminal. Disconnect current boiler Red wire and connect to boiler or plug-in transformer R. Disconnect current boiler White wire and connect to Receiver Purple. Connect Receiver Black to boiler or plugin-transformer Common terminal. Don't touch AC Red, Yellow, Green on the AC/Boiler side. Now go to the thermostat side. Connect Red from AC to Ecobee Rc. Connect Sender Purple to old Boiler White. Connect Sender White to ecobee W1. Connect Sender Black to ecobee C. Connect AC Y to ecobee Y1. Connect AC G to ecobee G. Connect old boiler Red wire to ecobee Rh.
I recommend going to a 24V-30VA or a 24V-40VA transformer to avoid any problems.
Amazon link:
Honeywell AT140A1000 40Va, 120V Transformer - 60 Hz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2EC7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iVwMBbFHRZPVD
There are isolation transformers for 120V AC. It might be overkill, but it would most likely solve your problem.
http://www.amazon.ca/Tripp-Lite-IS-250-Isolation-Transformer/dp/B00006HPFH
I would recommend opto-isolators over transistors. They often come in nice boards like this and provide electrical isolation in addition to the ability to control. 40mA should be within most 24V opto's limit but you'd have to check.
I recently did this for a 4 story - 3 family house I purchased.
ISP service comes in from the 2nd floor balcony so I put boxes outside, one with coax, the other with fiber. and ran a pair of each inside the walls to a central location for each apartment and inside a media enclosure which I also ran power to. From there I branched out to each bedroom and to the living room and dining room with 1 coax and 2 cat 6. I used smurf tube in areas and I also use metal protectors over the stud where the cable was run through to avoid anything piercing the cables in the future. I had a hard time getting any useful info from Verizon regarding fiber type so I ordered service and then they were tremendously helpful. They gave me four roles of fiber and drilled holes and offered advice. The verizon tech had just done the same thing in his own house. Good luck!
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https://imgur.com/a/jBs5q2J
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYXBKS6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_pYMPCbQS0ETE4
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Crunching points to something in the amp being off, but hiss/hum could be a ground loop issue with your house's wiring, especially with nothing plugged in. If an amp tech can't find anything wrong with the amp, it may be worth investing in an isolation transformer like this: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH
I'm making the assumption you're in the US. So if I'm wrong, some of this will be too.
Ring has a plug-in adapter that can be used with (only) the Pro and has 20ft of cable for people without existing wiring so you don't have to involve an electrician https://shop.ring.com/products/plug-in-adapter
If you want to wire to an existing power source, you'd be looking at installing a big Nutone C907, which is bigger than a single gang (single switch or outlet width) electrical box and looks like this. Being that you're asking this question in the first place, that's probably not something I'd recommend undertaking by anyone other than a qualified electrician, as this is a lot more than just turning off the power and swapping out an old transfomer for a bigger one.
I'd go with the power adapter and plug it into an outlet.
(And just FYI I have zero affiliation with Ring, so I'm not promoting that link for any reason other than it's the only safe plug in adapter for the Pro, as those ones you see on Amazon don't even come close to supplying enough power, and will burn out the Ring and/or the adapter, and by the time it happens in a month, it will be too late to return—those ones on Amazon, no matter what they say, are not OK with the Pro.)
If you need something longer than 20 ft but don't want to call an electrician, I'd recommend this, and only this, off Amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004VMVDTA/ (full link so you can see no afilliate or referral links) which you can use with your own 18-22AWG SOLID bell wire. 22AWG solid core for up to about 30 ft, 20AWG from 30-50 (or 0-30 ft if stranded not solid wire), and 18AWG solid (only, don't use stranded beyond 30ft) if you need to get up to 75 ft, but I wouldn't go much beyond that with low voltage wiring.
something like this? what wattage do i need? https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH
Actually, most recommended transformers are around 45VA: https://www.amazon.com/ELK-TRG1640-AC-Transformer-16-5VAC/dp/B0010PKVMQ
Are you thinking it's a ground loop that can be resolved by something like this, or are you thinking something more like this?
I got a 24v, mainly because I have an older home and this had the best reviews for non-grounded. I've had good performance and no complaints, I say get the 24v to future proof yourself.
For my doorbell, this is the one I use.
https://www.amazon.com/Elk-TRG2440-24VAC-Transformer-Fuse/dp/B0007N5LJK/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=ELK+TRG2440&qid=1565195451&s=gateway&sr=8-8
Any recommendations on brand? It looks like Amazon has some 24v 40va . I do have a mechanical chime. I installed one that was on rings approved chime list.
Honeywell AT140A1000 40Va, 120V Transformer - 60 Hz.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2EC7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1RY-zb9XPR2M7
I would just buy a wall wart style like this
I am wondering if something like this would help: https://www.amazon.com/Isolator-Protection-Isolation-ADUM4160-ADUM3160/dp/B06XB9YBHJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+ground+loop&qid=1562011641&s=gateway&sr=8-4
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From this subreddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/aup22m/how_do_you_deal_with_esd/
Class II Transformer - 24 Volt AC, 40 VA, UL/CSA Approved : MGT-2440 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMVDTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uokhDb4N2QHDY
No, use a "wall wart" style plug made for doorbells and alarms, 16V 40VA
Like this: ELK TRG1640 AC Transformer 16.5VAC, 45 VA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010PKVMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y1mpDbKYCSYJX
Hi there. Can someone give me a hand with this noob problem I have?
I was toying with the idea of making a few tutorials for Youtube.
Being on a very tight budget, I looked up an affordable mic that could still provide a decent audio and found the Behringer XM-8500.
I can get an XRL/XRL cable from a friend, so my plan was to simply buy an XRL to 1/8" adapter and connect the thing directly into my computer. However, I read somewhere that I can't just do that. It would result in terrible audio quality. Something about impedance and latency (this is Greek to me).
I googled a few things and also read that a cheap external USB card like this one solves the problem. Then found out that it does not.
Then, someone said that what I actually need is a transformer like this one. Another dude said that I should go with a USB audio interface.
I was considering getting a USB interface, but since it's gonna be a cheap one, I must assure that it doesn't miss the feature I need (I GUESS it's the conversion of analog to digital signal, but idk anything).
Would anyone be so kind to tell me what I need in order to have a decent audio in this scenario so that the listener doesn't run away out of cringe?
Sorry if I made this unnecessarily lengthy.
If this doesn't solve the issue, then it is the speakers themselves that are bad in some way, or whatever interface they are plugged into (be it a DAC, computer, etc).
Edit: I noticed my post is worded with a poor tone. I'm not actually 100% sure that this is the issue, I just have a pretty strong sense that it probably is. I am not an electrician, though.
Ring Pro? If so buy a 24v 15va (or higher) transformer.
Examples:
Honeywell AT140A1000 40Va, 120V Transformer - 60 Hz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2EC7K/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_YyYCDb3M4117C
or plugin...
Elk TRG2440 24VAC, 40 VA AC Transformer with PTC Fuse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007N5LJK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_BxYCDbVTETP7B
If you're super worried you could try some of the suggestions in this thread, or get a protector thing like this or any of the "usb ground loop" things on Amazon.
This needs a 24-volt (not 24w) AC power supply. You will need a matching connector, but this transformer should work just fine.
12V power brick with car lighter out ~ $13
50 Hz 110 V inverter ~ $12
120V→24 V tranformer ~ $12
Plus you'll need to wire that shit together somehow. Also it's probably going to generate crazy amounts of interference. But it'll work, more or less.
edit: it's probably a waste of time, you'd need to know more about what that thing expects.
Corner cutting... Not a severe hazard with LV wiring, but just kind of a cruddy thing to do. Older furnace?
I'm using a 24VAC 40VA transformer for my hello, and it's the only thing on the wire.
Honestly, I'd probably get a more powerful transformer. They're relatively inexpensive. If you have experience working with 120VAC, you can get very inexpensive transformers. If not, or you don't want to mess with it, you can get plug-in transformers for a bit more that have the same little screw terminals, and you can just move the wire, assuming there's an outlet near enough to reach.
I got mine on amazon for $20, they're cheaper than that now.
Here's the link to the one I got, but there are lots of options...
https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA/
EDIT: And just to add:
I had a lower power 16vac transformer originally (slightly above minimum spec for the Hello, and had problems with the Nest -- Chime wouldn't work, and would buzz instead of ding.) The chimes themselves have a pretty good power draw, so often the minimum spec for the Hello not enough (or barely enough) unless you're not using a chime on the circuit.
I’ve done this for 5 years with 7 apartments.
Duck brand tape is not overly strong, does not leave residue when removed. Rip two strips and affix them vertically to the side of the ring, then tape the wired doorbell to your door frame on the hinge side of the frame. Run the wire through the hinge side of the door. Wire goes into transformer, plug into wall near door.
Amazon not affiliate link
I wonder if that would work.
The Amazon search that wasn't just USB hubs.
Well I'm an asshole. I didn't look, just did a google search and sent the link. That's a 24V thermostat. There was something in the description about the SYSTEM being 110V, which is why google picked it up.
Anyways, it looks like Honeywell's got a pretty limited selection that has the WiFi capability you need. So how about this:
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Power-HPT2450-24VAC-transformer/dp/B004HN3OEK
Was it just a 24v wall transformer, something like https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA ?
something like https://www.amazon.com/5PCS-Audio-1300-Transformateur-Transformador/dp/B073RJT7DK
or https://www.amazon.com/10Pcs-Audio-Transformers-600-Transformer/dp/B075R2PF4R
depending on how things drive
just dont ground either of the speaker lines on a midland or motorola commercial radio
What is the hardwire system it is connected to? You can often end up with ground issues because these connections are unbalanced. If you disconnect the 2-wire and the hum goes away, that might be the problem.
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A quick and dirty test is to use an AC ground lift on the PL. This should clear it up but I'm not a fan of it as a permanent solution for safety reasons. Normally I would suggest an Audioman Iso Box, however I seem to remember that the Freespeak needs to see voltage on Pin 2 to enable the 2-wire interface.
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If you have a Clear-com system, you might be able to use an isolation transformer on Pin 3 to ground. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVYNLHQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_yfIWDbD96A62K have worked for me on a similar setup but any 600:600 Ohm should work.
Generic Compatible Replacement... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VURJFYE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I actually used that information the other guy posted to buy this exact one a few weeks ago and I can confirm it works!
Thanks for writing, Spooky. What I mean is closer to the former and here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYXBKS6/?ref=idea_lv_dp_vv_d
Well I am not sure its line noise. It could be a noisy power supply disrupting the radio signal.
One of these might help if it is line noise causing the trouble:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH
Just bought one of these https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481043700&sr=8-4&keywords=class+2+transformer
And bought some new thermostat wire - https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-Thermostat-18-Gauge-5-Conductor/dp/B0026H8L7E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481044119&sr=8-2&keywords=thermostat+wire+18+5
I split the thermostat cable so that I could run two of the wires to where I plugged the transformer in, near my furnace, connected two new wires to the furnace and then used the old thermostat wire to run the whole new wire up to the thermostat location. Of course you could just leave your existing wires in place and only run the new wires for the transformer... but I found using the old wire and pulling it through was the only way I could run the new wire anyway.
Then connect the wires... I forget which terminals I've used, will have to look tonight when I get home.
Do you know if this would work?
Transformers like these are designed to have power cut by a switch. The only issue of using with LED, AFAIK, is that they need a minimum wattage load to work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KX33JW
I added a C wire (using the excellent Fast-Stat CommonMaker) after receiving the E195 error but continued to see the error. It's important to note that I was reading a solid 24 v on the R wire at this point. I then learned, after extensive research, that the transformer on my boiler was not sufficient to power both my boiler electronics and the Nest. So I then purchased an external transformer and wired that into the CommonMaker in my furnace room and voila - problem solved.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010PKVMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I use with my Ring Doorbell Pro
Hey, wow didn't even know about inbox replies. Appreciate it
I purchased the same 24v relay but with the ground: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VMVDTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And this ice cube relay:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZXGHZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used your wiring scheme and it worked fine (then I unplugged and let die) but I was just testing without it hooked to my HVAC system and was able to get the relay to engage. Now after plugging back in I am getting a variety of wiring errors and the nest restarting.
Let me know if you think it is diagnosable or should provide more info. Appreciate the help.
People seem to like this transformer as a replacement option. Check out reviews. Hope it helps.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2EC7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
No reason it wouldn't work - the specs are correct. If it was me I would get this instead since it goes up to 45VA.
You can't connect these straight to the Ring without a doorbell inline or the power pro cable however.
I actually ended up getting it to work with this.
step down transformer
Instructions from an Amazon reviewer:
Hi...follow-up question on the same subject. previously I successfully setup an ecobee Tstat on a boiler that has T/T connections using a transformer and the relay. It is working fine with no problems. I would like to replace 2 other basic Tstats with Ecobees on the same boiler (3 zone boiler). I completely understand that they would each need their own relay, and that you are suggesting that 2 can run off the same transformer. Do you think the same transformer can run 3 ecobees? What, if any are factors that would affect this? This is the transformer I am using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HPJT7C0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Thanks in advance!
You might want to look into install these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IYXBKS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502943936&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=leviton+network&dpPl=1&dpID=41SiuXAsyKL&ref=plSrch
Might help you out with cable management. They also sell accessories to mount and power devices inside.
Also, run mutliple cat5e cable to different walls within the same room. You never know when you want move stuff around.
Lable and color code them.
Ask your builder if he can install some type of network interface hub for outside. That way your fiber/phone/satellite installer will not have to use his drill.
I know the Fast Stat is supposed to work, but I haven't tried it. This is what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007N5LJK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503173866&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=24+vac+transformer&dpPl=1&dpID=51lPbJGbTOL&ref=plSrch
Think of it as a power brick for the Ecobee. But you also need electrical wire to go between the transformer and the Ecobee. I was lucky enough to be able to run the wire into the basement and plug it into an outlet, so that it's not ugly by the Ecobee.
This is the transformer I put in:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2EC7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Delivers 24vac.
Lots of good information here, I appreciate it.
I'll check outside tomorrow and see if i can find anything leading to the ground. The only thing I saw last time was two metal cables which were bolted down to the pipe system near the water heater/furnace, and that's in the basement, but I didn't look outside.
The isolation transformer I've been using is this Tripp Lite IS250. It did literally nothing, or if it is, it's not discernible to me.
I've tried plugging just the amp, sans cables/pedals/guitars into the power outlets and it still makes the noise. It's relative to the master/gain/volume switches, so when you turn them up the noise gets worse. And worse again on the dirty channel. Strangely enough I did attempt to lift the ground just to test it on one of the amps and it made a slight difference, the other two it made no difference.
It looks like your best bet to power the Ecobee is to buy one of these or similar. It won't be the best cosmetic solution, but it will function well.
I have no idea if this is the right place to ask, so I waited until this thread to ask it, It's a silly question but if anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it. We will be attending a convention coming up and may need to take some relatively quick camera interviews, for a camera we use a phone to shoot in 4K which is more than capable for these interviews, however the audio is quite bad and loud in the environment. My question is: Could we use this Microphone http://amzn.com/B0002KZAKS connected to this http://amzn.com/B00FC4YR58 (Going into a Mono to Stereo converter) and record interviews directly to the phone this way? In theory it seems it would work, but I honestly am not sure which is why I am here. These interviews really aren't important enough to go the extra mile and use something like a Zoom H4N. Any help would be greatly appreciated, even though I know this is a bad question. Thank you.
OP, you want this:
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458363294&sr=8-3&keywords=isolation+transformer
I had one and stupidly left it when I moved. Why I left it, I have no fucking idea but I should have kept it.
Also, get a proper UPS that does AVR like this one which is relatively cheap: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458363419&sr=8-1&keywords=cyberpower+ups
You should wire these like this:
Outlet <--> Isolation Transformer <--> UPS/Surge <--> devices.