(Part 3) Best led bulbs according to redditors
We found 2,607 Reddit comments discussing the best led bulbs. We ranked the 1,042 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Not OP, but they make light bulbs with motion sensors. Simple as screwing it in.
Motion Sensor Light Bulbs, Aukora 12W (100-Watt Equivalent) E26 Motion Activated Dusk to Dawn Security Light Bulb Outdoor/Indoor for Front Door Porch Garage Basement Hallway Closet(Cold White 2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DXMF23S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0.AVDbS6HC541
Parts List & More
Type|Item
:--|:--
Case|IN WIN 101 Mid Tower High Air Flow Gaming Case w/ Tempered Glass Full Size Window (White)
CPU|Intel® Core™ Processor i7-7700K 4.20GHZ 8MB Intel Smart Cache LGA1151 (Kaby Lake)
Case Fan|3x 120mm AZZA Hurricane RGB Fans
CPU Cooler|Thermaltake Floe Riing RGB 240mm Premium Edition Liquid CPU Cooling System w/ Copper Cold Plate (2 x Standard 120MM Fans)
SSD|240GB WD Green Series SATA-III 6 SSD
HDD|Seagate 3TB 64MB Cache 7200RPM SATA III 6.0Gb/s
RAM|XPG Z1 Gaming Series 16GB DDR4-3000 Dual Channel DDR4 Kit, CL16 (2x 8GB), White
Motherboard|ASUS ROG Strix Z270E Gaming ATX w/ RGB, USB 3.1, 3 PCIe x16, 4 PCIe x1, 6 SATA3, 2 M.2 SATA/PCIe
OS|Windows 10 Home (64-bit Edition)
Power Supply|600 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Certified Power Supply - SLI/CrossFireX Ready
Video Card|GeForce® GTX 1060 3GB GDDR5
Monitor|Dell S2415h 24-Inch x 3
Monitor Stand|VIVO Single Stand & VIVO Dual Stand
Headset|Steelseries Arctis 7
Headset Stand|Avantree Universal Aluminum Desk Headphone Stand Hanger with Cable Holder
Keyboard|Logitech K780 Multi-Device Wireless Keyboard
Mouse|Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse (White)
Webcam|Logitech HD Pro Webcam C920
Plants|Artificial Plants, Amyhomie Set of 4 Mini Fake Succulent Plants
Desk|98x1 1/8" EKBACKEN Kitchen Counter Top resting on two White ALEX Drawers. There's also two OLOV White Adjustable Legs underneath for support.
Laptop|Apple 13" MacBook Air 256GB SSD 2015 Model
Laptop Stand|Vertical Laptop Stand Holder by MOTONG
Laptop Skin|Solid State White Skin by DecalGirl
Mini Fridge|Danby DAR017A3WDB Contemporary Classic Compact All Refrigerator, White
Lamp|Studio Designs 12024 Swing Arm Lamp, 13-watt, White
Lamp Bulb|TP-Link Multicolour Smart LED Bulb
Wallpaper|Nathan Nyx on ArtStation
Wall Scrolls|Tokyo Ghoul, No Game No Life, Attack On Titan, Seven Deadly Sins
Console|Nintendo Switch - Gray Joy-Con
Console Skin|Solid State White by DecalGirl
Controller|Nintendo Switch Pro Controller
Cable Management|Reusable Velcro Cable Ties, 2 x White Cable Raceway Channels, and 2 x White Cable Box
USB Charger|RAVPower 60W 12 A 6-Port USB Charger
Router|Linksys Velop Tri-band Whole Home WiFi Mesh System 2-Pack
Trash Bin|FILUR (White)
Ok so here is the breakdown of what I am doing and a couple more photos of the UI and videos of it in action.
Here is the
configuration.yamlandui-lovelace.yamlfiles on Github.The main components that are currently being used on the front end are:
I intend for the UI to be displayed on a few Fire HD8 tablets. One that will be centrally located on the main floor of the house. Two others will be used as nightstand clocks in the master bedroom.
At a high level, all I have done is drawn the floor plan and layouts in Sketch and exported individual assets as pngs and position them within a
picture-elementscard mostly utilizingimageand itsstate_image. I would basically just plop down the button or icon or whatever withstyle: "top":50% "left":50%. Once the asset was in the UI I would inspect it via Chrome's dev tools inspector and select the parent container that thestylewas being set on. I would then manually adjust thetopandleftpercentages until I was satisfied. I would then updateui-lovelace.yamlto include the new values and double check them in the browser.For the buttons, currently the button background and button text are baked into the image but I intend to change that soon. Basically the indicator light is actually the same size as the whole button its just 95% of it is transparent.
Here are some screen caps (since i just posted photos from my phone last night)
Here are a couple videos of it in action:
Thats all I can think of for now to answer the basics... I am more than happy to go deeper into anything anyone has any questions about
You don't even need to install an occupancy sensor - one may install a regular fixture and use a motion sensor light bulb. I have one (I can't remember what brand) in my garage and it works like a charm.
LIFX smart light bulb. Sounds like you want a warm light. I have one. It can get really bright so I have to set mine to 30% brightness. No hub required and Alexa compatible. I rarely use it with Alexa, though. I set mine using the LIFX app based on sunrise/sunset. Alexa doesn’t have this as a routine setting yet.
LIFX Mini White (A19) Wi-Fi Smart LED Light Bulb, Dimmable, Warm White, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit and the Google Assistant
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Y5QNKJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cdLZCbTZGZJ5M
I know you said you don't want to tape dark paper over the light, but this might be a slightly more elegant solution, in the absence of actually controlling the LED:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WSN8PK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use these for a variety of electronics, including power buttons that light up, and they work extremely well. They claim to peel off cleanly too - thought I haven't tried it.
If you don't want total light blockage, the company also makes a version that allows for some light transmission:
https://www.amazon.com/LightDims-Original-Strength-Electronics-Appliances/dp/B01BZBBITE/ref=pd_bxgy_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=GMAM6WEKTYVHV0C99B0F&th=1
edit: spacing
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM8XE2/ref=asc_df_B01HXM8XE25364142
Change them all over now. They’ll pay for themselves in a year.
This is what I use!
FWIW I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BZBBITE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought these smart light bulbs off amazon that slowly light up when you turn them on, maybe they could help you!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Y5QNKJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are a lot of parameters you're leaving unspecified. Do you want white, RGB, or RGBW strips?
Here's an RGB strip for $15.88.
You'll also need a controller. I'm not sure anything other than Phillips Hue works with Alexa out of the box. If you don't wanna do anything fiddly, you'll probably just wanna get Hue, which is gonna run you north of $100 after you get the hub.
If you're willing to do some hacking, I reverse-engineered the TCP API for this controller. Code is here:
https://github.com/sidoh/ledenet_api
Also built a REST gateway around it here:
https://github.com/sidoh/ha_gateway
You could probably integrate this API with the alexa HA bridge for a direct Alexa integration.
I have some instructions for integrating this controller with SmartThings on my blog.
YEELIGHT Smart LED Bulb, Wi-Fi, Soft White, Dimmable, 60W Equivalent, E26 110V, Smartphone Controlled, Work with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LRTWQNG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Sengled Element Classic Smart LED Light Bulb (Hub Required), A19 Dimmable LED Light Soft White 2700K 60W Equivalent, Works with Alexa / Echo Plus / SmartThings / Google Assistant, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072M5RT6L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EZDXBb3TR953A
Cheapest I've found. If you set up a price alert on camelcamelcamel they drop to under $8/bulb with sales.
I've got 4 right now and I've have more but realized I prefer switched over bulbs
Whatever you do, stay away from the "Internet of Things". Anybody who can make lights blink on an Arduino is making fucking lightbulbs that are WiFi connected.
https://www.amazon.com/Flux-WiFi-Smart-Light-Bulb/dp/B00SGLKWQW
These dipshits don't know anything about cyber security. They put their toy together, see that it works, then sell it.
I will do you one more solid, a link to a reasonably priced 24pack of LED bulbs on Amazon.
Amazon has a few that are a little cheaper also.
In my experience you can usually find a 4 pack on sale for cheaper than buying 4 individual bulbs or even 2 2-packs.
Currently on Amazon a single bulb is $46.95 ($187.80) & the 2-pack is currently $89.99 ($179.98).
A 4-pack with the hub (which you could eBay or save for future use) is currently running $180.16 which is actually more expensive than I have seen in a few months. Lately they have been around $160 (I actually paid $146 in June).
So with the current pricing on a 4-pack you get an extra hub for .18¢ . IMO, a 4 pack is usually the way to go.
EDIT: I just found a deal on Amazon for 2-pack starter kits for $77.93 ($155.86). You will have 2 extra hubs though but that seems to be the best deal for 4 bulbs right now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D1J5QC7?tag=slickdeals&ascsubtag=963c19a4bdcb11e996889ae98ab22c260INT
The code SMART10 is also good for a
LIFX Mini White (A19) Wi-Fi Smart LED Light Bulb, Dimmable, Warm White. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Y5QNKJ
Wow! That and this $35 4-pack of Sengled basic bulbs would make a damned nice starter kit.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072M5RT6L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aBgKzb60XRJJB
If you have a costco membership these lights periodically go on sale for $25-30 depending on what part of the country you live in. I use them to light my garage where I do most of my work, huge difference and especially if you care about how colors actually might look under non dark incandescent situations.
https://www.amazon.com/Feit-917972-Electric-Utility-Light/dp/B00LFAY5SM
Tossing the description through google translate...
> Color temperature: 2,700 Kelvin. High-quality, warm white light for a cozy and secure home. Compact dimming without installation - Experience stepless dimming via Hue dimmer switch or Hue app
These are the "white" lights. They only dim the intensity - there is no color changing functionality. They cannot shift the color temperature of "white" either.
They are perfectly good bulbs in the right spot. I have them in my kitchen.
If you are after the... lets call it "hue experience", you will want the equivalent of the color starter. The white ambient (white ambient starter) is what I find myself using most often. The white ambient lights can't change to blue or red - but it can change to a very warm or very cool white... which I find more useful for living spaces.
Sort of yes. Phillips announced they hit 200 lumens per watt in the lab in 2013 or so. In 2014 Cree announced they broke 300 lumens per watt in the lab but most the light bulbs available on the market cheaply are still around 100 lumens per watt.
Incandescent are about 15 lumens/watt.
CFL are about 65 lumens/watt.
The cheap/popular LED bulbs are about 75 - 85 lumens/watt.
There are bulbs like the nonoleaf that list 120 lm/watt.
The 40w vintage/Edison style LED's are also about 100 lm/watt.
LED's are already the overall cheapest option but not by so much yet that companies are removing CFL's from shelves or anything yet. With as much as cost and efficiency have improved over the last few years it might not take that long before it happens though and there are other applications like portable displays where a 10-20% improvement can make a huge difference to battery life.
The Flux brand works with Alexa:
https://www.amazon.com/Flux-WiFi-Smart-Light-Bulb/dp/B00SGLKWQW
Fixed link because of automod
I didn't go with bluetooth bulbs because I wanted to be able to control them from anywhere. So I've got these:
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Starter-PLINK-SKIT-Wireless-Light/dp/B00TJ4WMZE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
The bulbs connect to the little thing you plug into an outlet, and it has fairly decent range. I'll probably have to buy another one or two when I move into my house, but for now, one works just fine for my apartment.
I chose that set because you can control your lights from anywhere, they're dim-able, you can set timers very easily with the app, you can set up groups of light bulbs for different rooms, they work with Amazon Echo, and it just works. I haven't had a single issue out of them in the year that I've had them.
I'd say the only down side to that set up is that it's fairly expensive. $42 starter kit and $23 for a single bulb. If you need more than one extra it's actually cheaper to buy another starter kit.
I can't comment on a cheaper option. I loved from the cheap walmart light bulbs to these.
I love color temperature adjustment. Night stark whites during cloudy days, and a nice soothing glow at night. Sounds like you’re feeling the same thing, so I think you’ll enjoy Hue.
You need a hub and four White Ambiance bulbs. Here’s such a starter kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07353SKDD/
You’ll set up all four bulbs, calling them something like “Ceiling fan 1”, “Ceiling fan 2”, etc. Then create a room named “Bedroom” and put them in it.
You’ll then make a few scenes with the different color temperatures and brightnesses you like. I call mine “Day”, “Evening”, and “Night”. You can drag each bulb to the same spot on the color wheel, and it will group them so it’s easy to change all four simultaneously.
You’ll leave your light switch on at all times; Hue bulbs need power to respond to commands.
You can set the scenes and turn the lights on/off with your phone or with a device like Amazon Echo or similar. But what I’d highly recommend is that you also pick up a Hue Dimmer. It’s a physical device that looks something like a rocker light switch with four buttons. You stick that to your wall next to your regular light switch, and then just use the Hue Dimmer instead. You can program it with each scene you use, and then use the dimmer controls to fine-tune brightness. It’s much more usable than always using your voice or phone.
Here’s the Hue Dimmer:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/philips-hue-wireless-dimmer-switch-with-remote-white/4373904.p?skuId=4373904
(Amazon is apparently out of stock on this one right now?)
If you later add other bulbs in your bedroom, you can just name them whatever you like (ie: “nightstand” or “disco ball”) and then just add them to the existing scene. It’s not really a problem having a bunch of bulbs in the same ceiling fan fixture, because you will be using scenes to control your lighting, and the scenes will have the bulbs set to the same brightness/temperature. If you want, say, the night stand to be bright and the ceiling fan to be dim, you just set the scene that way and every time you activate the scene it will do that for you without a bunch of fiddling.
If you want to have some more fun, pick up Hue Color bulbs instead of Ambiance. With that you get full RGB. Not very useful, but amusing if you’re into that sort of thing. Most of my bulbs are color, and I use them occasionally for fun.
Be warned: once you get started, you’re going to want to do this in your entire house!
Were you ever in the space when it was dark? Do those odd light bulbs throw enough light to light the space? I am guessing those are the new LED retro bulbs like https://www.amazon.com/Filament-A19-4W-40W-Incandescent/dp/B00HZC5UOW
To control it with your phone it's going to be a bit of an investment since you need a hub. I would suggest a WiFi bulb. LiFx on the high end or Yeelight on the cheap end. They get pretty inexpensive if you don't need RGB control and just want white light with the ability to dim.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/YEELIGHT-Adjustable-Temperature-Equivalent-Smartphone/dp/B076CJL8DL
https://www.amazon.com/LIFX-Dimmable-Required-HomeKit-Assistant/dp/B072Y5QNKJ
The Yeelight let's you dim and adjust color temp, the lifx just dims.
LED Filament Bulbs
So I have a two bedroom apartment and I've got a mix of the bulbs, the Hue Gos and the light strips.
I don't use any non-Hue lighting so all of my light is controllable via app and timers. It allows you to create presets, so I have a number of lighting schemes that I really like that get progressively dimmer over the course of an evening and move from brighter colors like greens and oranges and yellows to soft blues and reds and purples as it gets later. It kind of becomes a Pavlovian cue that sleep time is coming. You can also set them on timed transitions - so it may take 30 minutes to slowly transition between the settings. So the light can be always moving slowly into differing colors and brightnesses schemes over the course of the evening.
In the mornings, rather than use an alarm clock, I wake to a gradually rising indoor sunrise where warm orange lights come up over the course of 30 minutes. Such a pleasant way to wake up. Gradual and natural instead of sudden and abrupt.
It's also super cool with voice control via Alexa, Siri, Google Home, etc. I just say things like 'Alexa, chill mode' and the lighting hits a smooth preset I have.
The stuff is expensive, but you can add pieces over time to the network. They are energy efficient and so far have lasted really well. I've not had any fail in 3 or 4 years of using them. I started off just wanting a lightstrip and ended up going whole house.
Life changing.
I got a couple of these and they work really well with Alexa.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Multicolor-Dimmable-Equivalent-LB130/dp/B01HXM8X88
I have two of these strips, one behind the desk and one under: http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-5-Meter-Waterproof-Flexible-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453786593&sr=8-1&keywords=led+strips
and I have 3 of these bulbs, two behind the monitors and one in my lamp: http://www.amazon.com/Flux-WiFi-Smart-Light-Bulb/dp/B00SGLKWQW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453786682&sr=8-2&keywords=flux+light+bulb
Do you have SmartThings hub? If so and if you just want white dimmable bulbs then keep an eye out for Sengled bulbs on Amazon. These go on sale all the time. Set up a Slick Deals alert for them or something. I got the 8 pack a few months ago for about $50.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072M5RT6L
I'd only recommend using these on lamps though and just don't use the physical switches on the lamp itself (so the bulbs are always powered and connected) and use automation or voice control to turn them on/off instead.
Amazon has SmartThings Motion sensors for $39 and Multipurpose Sensors for $20.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0118RQW3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cApgAbYE481TA
They also have Sengled Smart Bulbs Dimmable Bulbs for about $10: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072M5RT6L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RxpgAbH46K2J7
Wink has their Relay touch screen for $29:
https://www.wink.com/products/wink-relay-touchscreen-controller/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LRTWQNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_U-O.zbR3F6X5M
a tip for anyone wanting to try a few; once you get it, make sure you put one small dab of gorilla glue at the globe glass:plastic collar and plastic:metal base seam. such no brand low quality control bulbs tend to fall apart while screwing:unscrewing them from a e26/27 socket, so that bit of glue really helps keep bulb components from unwinding. this bulb puts out around the same lumens as a 40watt incandescent or 11watt CFL. I would recommend them for fixtures where the bulb is in direct view such as a chandelier, ceiling fan, wall sconce or wide shade table lamp. http://www.cob-led.com/What-is-cob-LED-chips-on-board.html
$10 Amazon Prime: http://www.amazon.com/LED-Filament-Replace-Incandescent-White/dp/B00HZC5UOW/ thanx Buzz
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Starter-PLINK-SKIT-Wireless-Light/dp/B00TJ4WMZE
$39 on Amazon
> If a bulb is exposed
They have solutions for that too.
Main LED is this one running at 33.5V and 2.4A. The red LED is this ebay model running at 22V and 1.45A. I know I should probably under drive them, but I think I'll just toss them and buy sturdier models if they die.
Not actually sure about power consumption, although I have an unused meter somewhere around.
This might just save your marriage.
https://www.amazon.com/Flux-WiFi-Smart-Light-Bulb/dp/B00SGLKWQW
For Bright Bulbs with a Hard One for StasiAlexa.....
I'm super excited about my new smart light bulbs. TP-Link 60W equivilant for those who were wondering. They are awesome and I can't wait to start setting the mood like a boss.
i have one of them. they are stupid expensive ($10-$35 depending on brand and wattage) and would require a TON of programming. would be pretty wasteful, but cool.
https://www.amazon.com/Flux-WiFi-Smart-Light-Bulb/dp/B00SGLKWQW/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1485888281&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=color+changing+light+bulb&psc=1
Occasionally on amazon you can find bulbs for about $1 each. These below are the warmer color that you’re after.
SYLVANIA 74765 A19 Efficient 8.5W Soft White 2700K 60W Equivalent A29 LED Light Bulb (24 Pack), 24 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758GXHQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XlVDDb7XR69Y4
Does he have the Wink Hub or the Link Hub?
I've got a ton of the Sengled Element Color Plus zigbee smartbulbs.
https://www.amazon.com/Sengled-Required-2000-6500K-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B073ZBYXKQ/
They have better color than Osram bulbs, and are much smaller than TP-Link bulbs. Very often on sale too.
Philips Hue White and Color Ambiance A19 10W Equivalent LED Smart Light Bulb Starter Kit, 2 A19 Bulbs and 1 Bridge, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D1J5QC7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_y4c-Bb4QRY7YD
And a few others with an echo
You are correct, it does need a hub. /u/Wintonson you can buy the bulbs in a kit with the hub or you can buy the hub standalone. I have some of these and they work pretty great for my purposes. There is an API so if you’re a coder you can control them through code, some applications such as f.lux are compatible, you can control them with Apple HomeKit/from your phone, etc.
Do note that they’re not all RGB. They also sell ones which are shades of white only. You need the White + Color “Ambiance” ones to do like the OP. The one you linked as well as the ones I linked are the right kind.
The Echo Plus (2nd Gen at least) can also work as a hub for them, so if you happen to have that anyway then you don’t need the standalone hub, but I don’t have one and can’t speak towards how well that works.
You might be asking about LED strips (which I've had mixed results with), but when I recently built out a client suite in my home I just got a couple of LIFX's color bulbs. I had enough room behind my monitors, and the power strip was already back there anyways.
Now they automatically come on in the morning and slowly raise in brightness throughout the day (I have a window in the room as well), and then they slowly dim in the late afternoon. All while maintaining 6500k.
LIFX bulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073168GYG/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_i5x3Cb3QFQXAQ
Plugged them right into outlets with these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JNFW0/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_q4x3CbQ0AZWN3
SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1
GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch
GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1
GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch
ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock
Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener
Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show
That's about all I can think of at the moment.
If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:
I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
Great applications for door open/close sensors:
Great Application for Motion Sensors
The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).
This starter kit seems the best way to go, unless you want to go with white.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D1J5QC7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here, you get 2 bulbs and a hub.
Just the hub is about $48, so the bulbs are more like $25 each.
Or you could go with https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Equivalent-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B06Y3QXSGX/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=hue+kit&qid=1550434393&s=hi&sr=1-12, three bulbs and a hub.
Or, check out your local Bed Bath and Beyond and see if they still have any on clearance.
If you get a lamp, put a smart bulb in it! Being able to change colors (or just brightness if it's not colored) makes a big difference for late night sessions. Amazon fucked up and I got this for free, so I put it in my lamp in my office. Dim bulb + RGB = more cozy than you'd expect.
Hue sells many different configurations of the starter kit, with different amounts and types of bulbs. The cheaper one likely has fewed bulbs, and probably only white bulbs. Older kits can also be cheaper. My opinion is that if you're going to get smart bulbs that don't do color, then you're better of with smart switches. The Hue "white" bulbs are a really ugly yellow that I can't stand. White Ambiance is a nice middle ground, at half the cost of the color bulbs, while giving you full control over the "warmth" spectrum. So you can change your lighting to match the time of day, for instance.
This is the cheapest kit I see on Amazon.com. It's basically the cost of the bridge with 2 white bulbs. Then you have the non-refurb for slightly more. This one is still white bulbs, but now you have 4. This one is like the first kit, but with a dimmer switch. I recommend dimmer switches, as otherwise guests will use the wall switch, disabling your smart bulbs. Then you start getting into the white ambiance kits, this one with a dimmer and 2 bulbs. Finally the color bulb kits will be the most expensive.
So, what's right for you? Depends on what you want. Usually you want to buy the starter kit that has a "free bridge". Use the following price chart to determine the value of your kit:
If the kit costs the value of it's contents or less, it's worthwhile. If it costs more than that, you're paying for the bridge. Usually the cheaper kits will have you paying more for the bridge. By the time you get into the 4-color-pack range they're giving you a credit.
Now, all that said, if your concern is cheap DO NOT BUY INTO HUE! It's extremely expensive, probably the priciest smart bulb. Ikea Tradfri and LiFX both have cheaper options that are similar in quality. Or if you really want cheap, go with Sengled. Hue is the premium option.
Not sure what your lights look like but two easy options for adding simple motion detection are either adding a bulb with that capability like these:
Motion Sensor Light Bulbs, Aukora 12W (100-Watt Equivalent) E26 Motion Activated Dusk to Dawn Security Light Bulb Outdoor/Indoor for Front Door Porch Garage Basement Hallway Closet(Cold White 2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DXMF23S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yp8MDbA74YD4D
Or, if you have outdoor flood lights you can most likely just add a motion sensor to the unit. Turn off the power. Unscrew then cap on the bottom of the unit and install the motion sensor. Something like this:
EATON Lighting MS180W 180 Replacement Motion Security Sensor Floodlight, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033ZNKJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ru8MDbNKTPRRR
I used a LiFX smart bulb w color that fits perfectly in the lamp (here). It's LED so super low heat but if I had to redesign I would add more space around the bulb for sure
Get yourself a piece of something bent. You can go clear polycarbonate or you could go aluminum for pretty cheap. If you go full metal (lol) make your viewport polycarbonate. Then you'll need a box for the lights. These are bright and cheap. Wire them up to a momentary switch so that they're only on when you press the button. If you want a quick burst like Blitz, you'll need a circuit board to control the burst so that it will only be for a second and you'll have to release the button and press it again for another flash. Batteries is the tough part. I'm guessing this could all be accomplished with a simple AA battery pack but that doesn't really sound fun. One of those big 6 volt batteries should power the whole thing. The lights themselves are going to be bright. Building an enclosure for them that reflects light forward would make it even better.
Easy mode is just getting some pre-made floodlights like such.
Wi-Fi / Bluetooth enabled "smart light bulb" can be fun and fairly low-cost (25-35$ for osmething reasonably capable). Fun, and can be used as a "morning sun wakeup" alternative too that's more aesthetic than the odd looking $160 phillips sun light. I think some of them even integrate with IFTTT and/or Tasker
EDIT: looks like amazon has a few that would arrive before 25th - http://www.amazon.com/Flux-x2122-WiFi-Smart-Light/dp/B00SGLKWQW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
Direct link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074M3XST3/
Reported discount code: 30NC4Y7K
My $.02: These zigbee bulbs are decent. I've used them with ST and HA. I wish the dimmer worked better at low levels, but they're still quite good. Without the hub, they come in at under $10/bulb. (https://www.amazon.com/Element-Classic-Sengled-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B072M5RT6L)
The ones I used were like this https://www.amazon.com/Feit-917972-Electric-Utility-Light/dp/B00LFAY5SM
I see them on sale fairly often for about $30.
I use one of these LIFX mini smart bulbs, works well
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073168GYG/ref=twister_B075R7XWW5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Please ignore my terrible cable management!
Details
Monitor - Viotek GN34CB
Computer - Mac Mini (2018, Refurbished)
Speakers - Bose Companion 2 Series III
Keyboard - Logitech G613
Mouse - Logitech M590 Silent
Lightning (Back) - Threshold (Target) Spotlight Lamp
Lightning (Sides) - Mainstays (Walmart) Black Shelf Floor Lamp
Desk - Essential Home (Kmart) Kendall Dining Table
Hello everyone,
I'm trying to reverse engineer an IoT device which is controlled via an iPhone app. The device in question is this LED Strip Controller which is controlled by an app called Magic Home.
I've set up Charles Proxy with SSL inspection and it works fine for most internet traffic but it does not capture or show the local traffic between the app and the controller. This is true for all local traffic to other IoT devices that are controlled via other apps or via HomeKit. If I make a request through Safari to a local IP, even on a different port than 80, I can see that traffic. Is there a way to monitor the app's traffic through Charles proxy or proxying in general?
The other approach that I was thinking about was monitoring the traffic that the controller receives. I have a Unifi network (USG, Switch and one AP) but I have no idea how to do something like that. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
I had a single light bulb lighting my 3 car garage. I tapped that junction box and ran 4 outlets off that switch, and installed 4 of these shop lights in in my garage (bought them at Costco for much cheaper). Holy Brightness!
YEELIGHT Wifi Smart Dimmable LED Bulb Lamp Light 60W Equivalent Schedules & Timers Setting for Android IOS Smartphone(White,Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LRTWQNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_19SEybXJFWS5S
https://www.amazon.com/LightDims-Original-Strength-Electronics-Appliances/dp/B01BZBBITE
Stickers of all shapes and sizes to dim or block light.
I use a ton of them and they're fantastic!
These maybe?
I really like these. I put them on everything
Edit: fixed link
you need the bulbs and a Hue Bridge. https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Ambiance-Starter-Assistant/dp/B07353SKDD/ref=sr_1_6?crid=16CW7R1ICMMF6&keywords=hue+lights+starter+kit&qid=1563305645&s=gateway&sprefix=hue+lights+sta%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-6
It looks like one of these
I just built a desk and did some LED accent lighting, I got this to control these and went to my local computer supply store and got a 24 volt ~2amp AC converter. It looks awesome and the controller is wifi controlled and will connect to your router. That way you don't have to disconnect from your internet to use the controller. Also, it works with iOS or Android.
> Those billboards are tons of LEDs crammed together. If your solution uses this much LEDs ... where's the room for solar cells?
Here's a single led chip that's less than 2x2 inches which produces upwards of 9000 lumens. That's overkill. You would mostly definitely see it in the day - especially if it's not white light. Something in the range of 2500 lumens should be plenty for most peak lighting conditions. Meaning a much smaller LED chip would be just fine. No need to pack them in until there's no space.
>That, and LEDs emit far less light when viewed from an angle.
You know they could be angled to work with what they're meant to work with, right? There's nothing saying they must point straight up. That's the only way your assertion would make sense. If anything, having some lean forward to light up what's ahead of you seems better than existing overhead lights.
>Also, LEDs that can be visible in broad daylight would consume way more energy than a solar panel can produce
Can you support that statement with calculations? Please don't be like thunderf00t and assume they run at full power 24/7. They wouldn't. Only the portion needed at that moment would need to be powered, and only enough to be visible under current light conditions. Would the lights alone use more than that much power, in every possible use case?
By my estimate they could be on full power for 15% to 35% of the time to break even. That's not promising, but not impossible either. I could see some low traffic situations where that could work (the roads near the local convention center are wide for occasional high volume, but dead most of the time, for example) But I haven't done nearly as much research as they have, so I'm probably using a high peak wattage and spacing them incorrectly. Point being, though, this is far from impossible.
>Apparently snowfall doesn't happen.
I don't understand what you mean by this. Is it to say that the snow would stay on the surface until all of it is melted? Did you miss the real life example of roads already doing this with residual heat from the sun? Even if you waited until there was a foot of snow on the surface to turn on the heating element it wouldn't need to melt through the entire foot. Just enough to make a layer of water for runoff to take care of the rest.
>Asphalt drains water evenly. Panels drain water only at their edges.
Is it that you don't think a civil engineer might work on the project and worry about water shedding rates? You don't think that the traction testing that was just passed by the US DOT would have considered this? You do realize that the road surface is tilted, and water draining into a series of slits is no more or less effective than lots of tiny holes, right?
> ... making solar panels even worse solution.
What? How does engineers working out the kinks of a project make solar panels a worse solution?
>Like the way you ignore the fact that LEDs used for road markings and warnings are no substitute for traditional lamp posts illuminating the environment the way they are?
Fun fact: that's not exactly out of the realm of traditional lights either.
Again, you're not making yourself very clear here. Firstly, LEDs are starting to be used for traditional lighting and signage already - so YES, they are a substitute. Is that what you meant by the second part? That they could be used for traditional lights and signs? Isn't that a contradiction?
Look, maybe having a bright red flashing line on the road telling you to stop isn't better than overhead lights. I don't know. I would need to see them first hand. But off the top of my head I can't think of why one would be any better than the other, functionally. But not having to setup the stop light in addition to the road sure seems like a benefit.
>Inefficient, inferior compared to regular asphalt, we already have that figured out, maybe, overrated, inefficient as fuck mate, drastically decreases life expectancy.
Can you prove any of that, either? They's shown to be about 50% as efficient at collecting light, they've shown to have higher weight bearing and similar traction to asphalt, and life expectancy hasn't been tested yet - so not even THEY know. How do you? Also, again, cyclic loading is a fairly simple calculation.. The glass and the electrical components can be designed to meet whatever lifespan needed. ...Engineers exist, and do things.
>Because that's not gravity collection. You can't collect gravity.
Jesus, okay, "kinetic energy created by gravity" are you happy? The weight of the car causes deflection, and that deflection could be caught and transformed into power. Whether they use something that mechanical, which needs moving parts, or something piezoelectric, I don't know. They're still in development and haven't released such details.
>Also connecting all the wires. And let's not forget that you'll be replacing that shit way more often than your regular asphalt. And unlike asphalt (which can be left broken and full of holes for a while), if the thing malfunctions you have to replace it pronto.
Do you know if the modules have pinned connectors to make wiring simple? That's my understanding, but maybe I'm assuming. And, again, you don't know that you'll be replacing these "way more often." That's a design issue, and they could certainly be made stout enough to compete with the lifespans of asphalt. It's purely a question of if they could do so in a cost effective way.
As for replacing them "pronto" - why? Unless the entire panel is missing it shouldn't be any different than a pothole. Are you assuming that any cracks compromise the integrity of the entire plate? This being laminated glass I can't imagine that would be the case. The stuff is purpose made to retain most of it's strength even after being compromised.
> Because they're resurfacing or even replacing the whole road? (And note: after the new asphalt was laid down, that particular stretch would last for 10, 15, sometimes even 20 years and more. Panels aren't going to last this long).
That only works for superficial damage. Similar to a crack or chunk missing from this sort of system. Beyond that, you need to compact the substrate, possibly replace reinforcing mesh, score and bond the interface between old and new asphalt, compress and smooth (eg. steamroll) new patches of road. And, again, you do not and cannot know how long the panels will last.
... I think I've at least proven that this topic is much more complicated than just "use another source of energy."
It will surely help a good bit and its a nice project.
I actually meant just that besides the cheap part haha. You can use these(first I found on amazon) 6-6500k and these 2800-3000k chips I believe they use the same drivers and their 20, 30, 50, and 100w versions are all 5x4.5cm and you can run two 100w at 25% and make them last a long time, as well as 2 50w at 50% and so on. Id say 6-6500k has enough red but I get that and the cost thing, I dont know how big the sink is but I guess you have at least15x15cm to work with.
I want to get this wifi led controller: XCSOURCE DC 12-24V iOS Android WIFI Remote 5 Channels Controller for RGB LED Strip LD686 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01AA6221S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IG5IxbNZD317B for my setup. I will be running a strip behind my desk and another one running parallel to my PC tower. What LED strips should I get for it?
Also check out the "LIFX A19 Mini Color" Was $41.99 now $31.99
https://www.amazon.com/LIFX-Adjustable-Multicolor-Dimmable-Assistant/dp/B073168GYG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=lifx&qid=1566019463&s=gateway&sr=8-5
http://www.amazon.com/Filament-Replace-Incandescent-White-2700K/dp/B00HZC5UOW
the solution.... https://www.amazon.com/Aukora-100-Watt-Equivalent-Activated-Security/dp/B07DXMF23S/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=CjwKCAjw98rpBRAuEiwALmo-yqZMpW4tlcryRf_fOBGke8FCJNzJhn--v7N6AAgZ9s5Be19gGghmIBoCoOwQAvD_BwE&hvadid=174303465334&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9030793&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12452970752588650244&hvtargid=kwd-31636372911&hydadcr=8466_9619055&keywords=light+bulb+with+motion+sensor&qid=1563650892&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I found out the hard way, got my first one off gearbest.
They are great smart bulbs if you're using the rest of the xiaomi smart home stuff though.
Here's the ones you actually want.
https://www.amazon.ca/YEELIGHT-Equivalent-Smartphone-Controlled-Compatible/dp/B01LRTWQNG
https://www.amazon.ca/YEELIGHT-Dimmable-Equivalent-Amazon-Assistant/dp/B01LRTWQJ0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1524539313&sr=1-2&keywords=yeelight+e26+rgb
Not sure. I haven't done much research nor own any smart devices...I think the LIFX were more accessible but they all seem to be sold out for some reason...probably because they are the only ones to work without a hub xD. Pain in the ass, I know.
This one may be a bit more affordable, but is still around the same price as you would pay for a few bulbs and a hub.
https://www.amazon.com/LIFX-Dimmable-Required-HomeKit-Assistant/dp/B072Y5QNKJ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518198560&sr=8-4&keywords=LIFX+Colour+1000
Whats your budget for something like this cheapest would be getting TP Link light switches (do not require any hub at all just an app on your phone) and a few of these. however with teh GE light bulbs you will need a hub. best/cheapest in my opinon is the wink hub. so all together lets say 4 light bulbs (they last for YEARS!) and one light switch and then the hub your looking at about 140 all in. ideally you would want Echo because that gives you the ability to controls your lights without opening an app every time you want your lights to turn on and off. if you decided to go with echo you can get a dot for $50 but you would want a speaker hooked up to it because it sounds like a cell phone speaker without it. but if you want to just control your lights with it you wont need a speaker it just gives you better sound for things like music, weather, and news.
Edit: for a thremostat HANDS DOWN BEST ONE OUT THERE is the Ecobee3 Sleek, Stylish and best functionality in my opinon. thatll run you about 250 though
I have plenty of hue, but that's why I don't buy hue color (amazon.com/dp/B073ZBYXKQ)
Do you live in the US? Because they're like $1 each on amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Ambiance-Starter-Assistant/dp/B07353SKDD/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hue+ambient&qid=1568402318&sr=8-3
something like that if all you care about is cool/warm white. If you want rgb....then get the RGBs. I wish I knew about the ambients sooner than I did, as I will be moving forward with those instead of like the 12 RGB ones I have.
You'll want to look at Smart things by Samsung or even a hubitat with z wave motion sensors, door sensors and z wave light switches.
Smart things
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=smartthings&qid=1568218834&s=hi&sr=1-4
Hubitat
https://www.amazon.com/Hubitat-Elevation-Home-Automation-Hub/dp/B07D19VVTX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=11LGAJMZT4XTM&keywords=hubitat&qid=1568218857&s=hi&sprefix=Hubitat%2Ctools%2C181&sr=1-4
If you go the z wave /z wave plus route things tend to be much more stable and you can build a interference free IOT network. Zigbee runs on 2.4ghz so its generally less preferred to z wave that operates at a interferance-FREE 800-900 MHz.
Things like the GE Z wave light switches are great for a good reliable IOT network.
GE Z wave light switch & Extender
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=zwave+ge+light+switch&qid=1568218742&s=gateway&sr=8-2
For locks I highly recommend the Keyless Yale locks. $98 a piece, very reliable and they work great with a z wave network. They also use a hardened steel strike plate, a solid steel body, a tamper alarm, a anti saw dead bolt core and cant be picked.
​
You'll want a good quality door sensor, good reliable ones are few and far between so make sure you get something that has great amazon reviews. Dont cheap out here as flaky contact sensors are everywhere and its not worth the $5 when it doesn work half the time.
Z Wave Door Sensor
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29QS4YGELWFZR&keywords=zwave+door+sensor&qid=1568220339&s=hi&sprefix=Z+wave+door%2Ctools%2C170&sr=1-4
Yale Z wave YRD110ZW619 Dead bolt
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PM6V1XW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
I also use an Abode Security System thats z wave based with my z wave locks feeding in to it. Abode is great as its got all the fancy features other alarm systems offer but has no monthly charge!!
Abode Security System
https://goabode.com/?rfsn=2685339.3291b5
​
For Smart outlets I dont have any z wave ones yet, just a couple of TP-Link kasa ones. I would probably go for GE in wall outlets though. DONT SKIMP on your outlets, lesser known brands have been know to catch on fire!
I have 19 kasa light bulbs and they work pretty darn good, but I would recommend GE outlets for much better home automation. Smart light bulbs are good for basic stuff but once someone turns off the light switch you cant turn them back on until you flip the switch.
Kasa Light Bulbs LB110
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-LB110-Smart-Wi-Fi-Dimmable/dp/B01HXM8XE2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Kasa+bulbs&qid=1568220252&s=hi&sr=1-5
Please note that Smart things and Hubitat are booth good in there own respects, Smart things is good for people who know how to use a computer but are not power users. Hubitat is great for people who own a github account and really want the full automation experience. Hubitat runs most/all IOT commands locally and doesn't rely on the cloud for processing.
I skipped hubitat and went for HASSIO, I really, REALLY, dont recommend this rout unless your a computer tech as the learning curb can be really steep!!! It runs on your own server, I use the VB version
HASSIO
https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/
They're not that much cheaper anymore. You can get LEDs pretty dirt cheap these days.
I average $0.10/kWh in energy costs. A $2.00 8w LED vs a $0.80 60w incandescent pays for itself in 12 kWh, or 250 hours of service.
Your typical incandescent lasts for ~1k hours. Your typical LED lasts for ~35k hours. Over 35k hours, I'll spend $2.00 for an LED + $28 in energy costs. Over that same 35 hours, I'd need 35 incandescent bulbs ($28) and would spend $210 in energy.
Awesome. Okay so just to clarify (sorry), I know I could use the hand controller provided with these lights, but if I got the H801 controller, I could change the lights with an app on my phone for now. Is this correct? Then going forward I could get this controller to hook up to Smartthings.
I have 3 zones total, the wall art, and 2 sets of cabinets I would want to light. Would I need 3 of these controllers, one for each run of LED lights? And then I would need to use the app to turn on each run individually?
If you recommend a different H801 controller would you be able to link that to me?
Thanks again for your time.
Edit: Thoughts on this controller?
For Zigbee lights that work directly with the SmartThings Hub I’ve been using Sengled Element Color Plus RGBW+CCT bulbs.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZBYXKQ/
Generic Zigbee lights also work with ST’s local execution mode.
Frustratingly, no Z-Wave lights do this (but switches/outlets do).
I have 2 of these, cheaper and they are soft white 2700K
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Dimmable-Equivalent-Amazon-LB110/dp/B01HXM8XE2/ref=pd_sim_60_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FN1SS32PNHN7Q3KANHA6
$25
https://smile.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Osram-Smart-Tunable/dp/B00R3ID2BG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487696070&sr=1-2&keywords=Osram+lightify
https://smile.amazon.com/GE-60-Watt-Equivalent-1-Pack-Zigbee/dp/B00NOL16K0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487696092&sr=1-1&keywords=GE+Link
https://smile.amazon.com/Cree-BA19-08050OMF-12CE26-1C100-Connected-Equivalent-Daylight/dp/B01701DL7A/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487696111&sr=1-1&keywords=Cree+Connected
.... though those are all just Amazon prices. Maybe they are just the ones pricing high.
LIFX minis are currently on sale on amazon for $26 a bulb. If you’re ready to pull the trigger now would be a good time to pick them up.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073168GYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y5f0BbXEMR410
Doing OP's job:
​
Multicolor Amazon link
It sounds like you're talking about an overhead light with a wall switch, so something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Aukora-100-Watt-Equivalent-Activated-Security/dp/B07DXMF23S/
This is an expensive kit that will get your started.
Sorry if there are formatting errors and such I am on mobile.
Basics
You should really consider a better HUB/products if you want this level of automation. You are going to want an offline hub such as Vera or Homeseer (what I use). Homeseer I know will interface with the echo Vera should. Hubs like wink/SmartThings end up not working when...
Similarly, you should NOT get a nest (or EcoBee). I have a nest and while I love the design it is fickle. I would instead recommend a z-wave thermostat. With a z-wave thermostat you can do almost everything nest can (no auto scheduling).Already Purchased 
You should seriously consider a different HUB
Dimmers and Wall Switches
Here is a good place to start. Lutron dimmers are fantastics although they can be a bit pricy (I don't think you mentioned a budget...). Other options include the GE 12724 for dimming if you want to go z-wave over Lutron. And, the GE 12722 for regular on/off. Or Homeseer is releasing new switches soon that look fantastic (Also z-wave)!
Here's some more info. 1 2 3 4
Garage Opener
Chamberlain is great!
Security
If you cannot change/return your system that fine but I would recommend a DSC power series system as they almost universally integrate with automation systems Homeseer has a plugin as does Vera.
Audio
Sonos is fine. It can be controlled via Homeseer/Vera (Think announcements). Or you can get an Echo Dot and connect it to the sonos connect via an audio cable. GET a WHA controller (Check the Outdoor speaker section for recommendations)
Front Door Cam/Doorbell
Either Doorbird a doorbell and camera (expensive) or a normal doorbell with an IP camera with motion record. The integrated solution is better but of course more expensive. If you end up with IP cameras you should consider Hikvison they seem to make the best cameras for the money.
Outdoor Light
Just install the smart switch of your choice.
Fan's
Not sure sorry. :-( GE has a fan controlling switch but I doubt it would work as you mention remotes...
Under Cabinet Lighting
Hue lightstips, Aeon lightstrips or a WIFI / Z-wave LED controller with regular strips. (Will edit later with links)
Outdoor Speakers
The Daytons are fine you could also go with Yamaha NS-AW150. For integration you could connect them to the MONOPRICE 6 Zone Controller and AMP. You could also connect the Sonos CONNECT to the monopice and have outdoor audio + sonos audio and send audio to any other zones you have!
 
PM me or comment if you need any more info :-)
 
*Will edit and add more info when I get to a keyboard.
Doing this with a $20 bulb. No hub needed, connects to Smart things.
It plugs into existing fixture.
I have seen a number if sales and paid $22. Think it's a little more now.
Sengled Element Color Plus A19 Smart LED Light Bulb (Hub Required), RGBW 16 Million Colors and Tunable White 2000-6500K Dimmable, Works with Alexa/Echo Plus/SmartThings / Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pZcOBb1B5BR0R
> I've also seen a newer (and cheaper) strip controller with that chipset as well.
Got a link to that, by any chance? Was it this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Aukora-100-Watt-Equivalent-Activated-Security/dp/B07DXMF23S
This seems easiest. I haven't tried one, but I'm thinking about getting a few.
Element Classic by Sengled - 4 Pack - A19 60W Equiv. Soft White (2700K) Smart LED Bulb, Zigbee, Works with Amazon Echo Plus & SmartThings, Hub Required for Amazon Alexa & Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072M5RT6L?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I like these. $39 for 4. Works well with the Echo Plus.
https://www.amazon.com/XCSOURCE-Android-Channels-Controller-LD686/dp/B01AA6221S
I purchased 2 of these XCSOURCE DC 12-24V iOS Android WIFI Remote 5 Channels Controller for RGB LED Strip LD686
I have one controlling a LED strip behind my desk and one above my door. It's pretty pointless but fun none the less.
I can control them from my phone or from a Python library that someone wrote (don't have that handy though).
Here are some pics of the final result: https://goo.gl/photos/ntD9gDaruZzysA7i8
GE Link. Good, dim-able and cheap. I got most of mine on sale from Home Depot when I bought my Wink Hub about a year ago. On sale they were 15.99 each. They also make a flood version...
Same bulb @Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/GE-60-Watt-Equivalent-1-Pack-Zigbee/dp/B00NOL16K0
I was thinking of using ledenet lights with this ledenet wifi
But I wanted LEDs like the lifx that could display different colors at the same time
Edit: it says it works with music
I have the v2 hub and had a ton of issues with these bulbs. Apparently if they were manufactured prior to a certain date then they need a firmware update to work with the SmartThings hubs. To do the firmware update you need the Sylvania hub. I bought 15 of them from Lowes and only 2 worked out of the box. Rather than buy the hub to update them, I just returned them and bought the GE Link and Cree Connected bulbs from Amazon and they worked perfectly.
So, just to clarify: You want to control 16 RGB LED strips individually?
I haven't seen any zwave switches capable of controlling more than two loads at a time.
The only zwave LED strip controller I'm aware of comes from Fibaro. Incidentally, if you're willing to skip RGB and just go with white LED strips, you could control four white strips with a single controller, rather than one RGBW strip.
This LEDENET wifi LED strip controller has also been generating some buzz lately.
Neither of those two options has a manual on/off button.
Frankly, doing individual control of 16 LED strips is going to be expensive. Is there a reason you don't want all 16 LED strips to have the same state?
The Background:
My tentative setup right now has a two gallon reservoir watering a three gallon Smart Pot. I have a 5-10 gal fish tank filter that I've also added an [activated carbon/ammonia neutralizing crystal] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002566YM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) filter and leveled filter to. I let my water set at room temperature (cycling through the filter) for several days before giving it to the plant. The water is exposed to 388 watts (~84,000lm) of warm and cool white LEDs in a Carbon Dioxide rich environment with filtered airflow.
My city water report is as follows, with ideal levels, followed by current city water levels:
I presume the Haloacetic Acids are the chlorine they use in the water treatment.
The Questions:
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Connected-60-Watt-Equivalent/dp/B00NOL16K0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449024896&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+link+bulb
I managed to catch this (the kit, not just the bulbs) for $30 the week of Thanksgiving. If you can find it on sale I think it's by far the easiest, least expensive option. I had the bulbs in the lamps and Alexa was turning them on and off in about 10 minutes flat. The hub only works with the GE Link bulbs though.
Found them on amazon too: https://www.amazon.com/LIFX-Adjustable-Multicolor-Dimmable-Required/dp/B073168GYG?th=1
Also available in shades of white light: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Y6X7QS/ref=psdc_2314207011_t3_B073168GYG
and
Soft white only:
https://www.amazon.com/LIFX-White-Wi-Fi-Dimmable-Required/dp/B072Y5QNKJ/ref=pd_sbs_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B072Y5QNKJ&pd_rd_r=1PVERE5BM3HEQ75YT0BY&pd_rd_w=FNyri&pd_rd_wg=BT9W9&psc=1&refRID=1PVERE5BM3HEQ75YT0BY
Looks like they come out in October.
When you say triggered, do you mean like when someone breaks into your house?
I have it currently setup so that when I get home, the garage door opens (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Iris-Z-Wave-Garage-Door-Controller-Works-with-Iris/50213045) and my interior lights turn on.
To get the lights to work, I have GE Z wave switches (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2) and some GE Link LED bulbs (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Connected-60-Watt-Equivalent/dp/B00NOL16K0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1478189524&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+link).
I don't have any Hue products (yet) but I believe they require a hub to allow them to communicate to abode (not sure though)
https://www.amazon.com/Feit-917972-Electric-Utility-Light/dp/B00LFAY5SM
Pretty sure this is the one I bought, though I don't think I paid that $50 price tag.
My garage is 21x21 or so, and one works well for the half gym, if I used the entire garage, two would suffice in my opinion. They are SUPER bright.
I'm using the drivers to run the lights and the fans. I had to order some more because I accidentally fried my light and exhaust fan. My plan was to step up the driver to 36V and split it among 3 12v fans. One fan gets really good air intake, cant wait for the extra exhaust fan to add better air flow. I really enjoyed making mine and I can't wait for a finished project. Once I'm done with this one I'm planning on making an automated bucket using a raspberry pi.
As for the light specs:
One light, 100W LED power by a 100W power supply. (This is it)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CZ6QDDU]
Do you need one for this one?
Link to a good WiFi LED controller I use
Costco has some cheap LED shop lights. For $30 each, they're excellent!
Edit: If Costco isn't an option, Amazon has them, but they're more expensive.
I'm in the process of wrapping up my new reloading bench. I'm using this kit from Amazon. If you flip through the user-submitted photos you can see a few people who are reloading with it, as well as all sorts of different ideas for configurations.
Given my space constraints I made mine 6x2'. Conveniently that means one 4x8' sheet of plywood gave me enough for two shelves plus two smaller middle shelves. It took me about an hour to cut the wood and put together the workbench. I had Home Depot cut the plywood for me but cut all the 2x4s myself. Total cost for the kit, all the wood, pegboard, some matte poly, and a paint brush is right around $200.
My upper shelves aren't done yet but will be 4' wide to support a nice big piece of white pegboard. I've ordered an LED shop light for lighting.
Even though I just have the lower part done it's awesome. Way way way sturdier than the crappy-ass "workbench" I had from Harbor Freight before.
I'll post pictures once the bench is done and the 550B is mounted to it, likely Saturday.
The ones being sold by Amazon actually are still only $20 but are back-ordered. At least for the GE.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00NOL16K0/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all
Hi!
I have this switch: CLICK
The lights are very bright so you i would also recommend THIS
in my opinion, you need to pick your platform first. Are you going to get a SmartThings hub or use something like Home Assistant. Using Alexa or Google assistant sounds great - until you find out that it is limited to simple if this then that type of automations which are not enough in my opinion. You will need wither HA or SmartThings (with webcore) to do this.
If you ask me, id say buy a smartthings hub and integrate webcore (free) for automations. Then skip the hue bulbs (although they are great) and pick up a smartthings compatible bulbs such as these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (RGBW) or these (white) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07576J38L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Look at the multipack and other packages.
I tried out home assistant and while great - i hated building it, the thought of maintaining it, supporting it, upgrading it, and the configuration is developer minded and sometimes requires editing of yaml files, and integrations to simple things like Google Assistant was a pain in the ass (free - paid is 5 a month and is easy).
I absolutely love SmartThings but webcore is a must for me. Its easy, GUI, makes sense and best of all works.
I bought this Sengled bulb since I didn't want to drop a bunch of money on a Hue pack. It's works well for what it's intended for, which is a front of the house pole light in an enclosure. I like the fact it runs natively through ST. I was planning on getting a few more later on to stick in some bedside lamps, but I haven't gotten to that point yet. I run all my stuff through ST, besides a nest hello doorbell.
One idea I've been messing with is getting a similar bulb and setting it up in the basement so I have a visual alert someone is at the door besides listening for the doorbell. I realize Nest Hello cannot be recognized by ST, so it will be difficult to set that up.
interesting. I got this starter kit, this is the link hub right? the app I have is the wink app which is confusing me a little haha
Also, thoughts on these? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TJ4WMZE/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3TV1HWSR135CE
Check out this light bulb. It's by TP-Link and does not require a hub or any wiring to be done at all. Just screw it into the socket and connect it through the app.
I have the 1st generation color Lifx bulbs which doesn't require a hub & the Philips Hue white which requires a hub. The Lifx bulbs are pretty neat because without needing the hub, it's 1 less thing to plug in but it's more expensive. I only used the colors for the Lifx bulbs when I first got it, so I ended up switching to the Philips Hue white bulbs. On Amazon 1 white Lifx bulbs costs $24.99 while 4 white Philips Hue bulbs costs $49.99. They both work great with the Google Home, so it's all about your personal preference.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HXM8X88/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482095580&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Tp+link+bulb+multicolor
These are the bulbs I'm talking about.
I have geofenceing set up for wink, but we're in a more rural area so it's not always accurate and most of the time we have to have our phone GPS on for anything accurate. If the bulbs aren't compatible with wink, this won't help me anyway. Besides, what do you do at night? You have to open the app to turn off all of the lights. Or if you get up in the middle of the night because the dog is puking? Not all times are ideal to scramble for your phone. For these cases, a stationary switch would be nice.
Mid 2015 15” MacBook Pro
iPad Pro 9.7”
Dell U2715H
Harman Kardon Soundsticks III
Brightech Lamp w/ USB Port
USB Powered LEDs on back of monitor
LED Lights Glowing from floor
Hue Bulb in Lamp
Henge Aluminum Vertical Dock
Magic Trackpad 2
Magic Keyboard with Numeric Keypad
4k Apple TV
59”x29” Ikea Table Top
Ikea Olov Adjustable Table Leg
Candle ;)
I bought some sticky labels specially designed for this kind of thing. They are like sunglasses for your over-bright LEDs. I didn't get these due to my KC, just don't want various LEDs on devices lighting up our bedroom while we're sleeping.
They are called LightDims - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BZBBITE
Price History
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXM8X88/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Not saying you're wrong for liking them, but that's a serious downgrade in brightness over your fluorescent fixtures.
A 4' fluorescent bulb (new, obviously) will put out about 3000 lumens, and you had 12 of them, so 36klumens.
Those fixtures don't state how many lumens they put out, but based on an average cheap LED l/w efficiency, 1000 is a safe bet. So you added 11klumens.
Instead, take these lights, which put out 3700 lumens. 3 of them put out the same as 11 of your fixtures, and cheaper too. (they're $40 at costco). $0.02/lumen for your CEs versus $0.015/lumen for these, or $0.011/lumen if you get them at costco.
Plus you save on wiring and boxes by more than halving the number of fixtures you need. Not that those blue boxes are expensive, haha.
2 is twice that of 1. But 2 is just a bit more than one. Small numbers do that sometimes.
CFL 13 watts (60 watt equivalent).
Sylvania 13W CFL T2 Spiral Light Bulb, 60W Equivalent, 850 Lumens, 2700K Soft White, Non-Dimmable (8-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JBX6Q52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aRkmDbQK3GR74
LED 8.5 Watts (60 watt equivalent)
SYLVANIA General Lighting 74765 A19 Efficient 8.5W Soft White 2700K 60W Equivalent A29 LED Light Bulb (24 Pack), Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758GXHQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RTkmDbCWG5DEA
Did that CFL look 65% as bright as the LED? No, because the CFL never turned on.
I’d be perfectly happy with this video if they started the CFL
>Still a reasonable price tho
I guess, maybe if it goes on sale and you need another mini. Its only a single bulb. The minis were on sale for $30 last holiday so that single bulb could cost $25. What the hell are we supposed to do with a single smart bulb?
Right now on Amazon you can get 4 hubless smart bulbs for $31.
Google pricing really fucking pisses me off given the fact they make billions off user data, the least they could do is subsidize their gadgets.