Best nut drivers according to redditors
We found 151 Reddit comments discussing the best nut drivers. We ranked the 50 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 151 Reddit comments discussing the best nut drivers. We ranked the 50 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Sure. I used this this guide as a base: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/PlayStation+Vita+Right+Joystick+Replacement/8028
When I needed to visually see something to confirm I was doing it right, I used this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIEGW_jlC9E
iFixit links to all the parts on their store, but I think when I was doing mine some time in May, some of the items were out of stock and I wanted to get the repair over with, so I just bought this electronics repair toolkit off Amazon with Prime and it had everything I needed and more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RDF633L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0kLlDbNCYCSSP
I also bought my right stick off Amazon too. Make sure any one you buy is for PSV 2000.
It was an easy fix. The hardest part is being comfortable opening it up and taking pieces out. Disassembly took about ten minutes. The actual replacement process to being able to play again took like three.
Malco reversible hex driver. Super handy tool, and the design makes it easy to clean metal shavings out of the magnet too.
I was going to post this, though the one I got also ratchets: link . I want to get rid of all my other screwdrivers now.
Here's what I would personally recommend for a decent minimum starter set, assuming you're just looking for general homeowner/handywork tools:
Those are all solid quality tools that I've personally used in the past. There's obviously tons of other stuff you'll need along the way if you're into fixing things but that's a great starting point.
I can tell you that replacing the battery and both sticks in my Vita Slim took less than 20 minutes. You can find good quality analog sticks for only a few dollars each. I replaced mine for the same reason as your issue: one of the sticks was constantly drifting (it was my right one, not my left one.)
I got these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06Y2BXMWP/
I like them way, way more than the stock ones. The little textured rings on them make using the sticks significantly more comfortable. They feel a little tighter than the stock ones, too (in a good way.)
I've been super happy with them, and have put in dozens of hours since installing.
I used iFixit's guides (because of course I did.)
https://www.ifixit.com/Device/PS_Vita_Slim
Make sure you get a replacement battery while you're at it, too. You have to remove the battery to replace the sticks, so it's stupid to put the old one back in.
Also, I can't stress enough how important it is to have the right tools when you do this. A small spudger and proper tweezers, if nothing else, is essential. The ribbon cables are tiny and easily damaged, so having the right tool will make all the difference. Same goes for prying the outer shell open.
I have this kit, which has everything you need to open up and work on pretty much any small piece of consumer electronics you can think of. It's expensive, but totally worth the money.
https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Screwdriver-Magnetic-Professional-Electronics/dp/B0718ZM6R1/
Here are some suggestions of good brands but substitute with lesser brand as you see fitted:
power tool, cordless is preferred. Some brands to consider, makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Bosch:
If you don’t care about name brands, same stuff for $23
this one?
Def looks better than the other multiple screwdrivers that i've had, not sure if heavy duty or the one with torx bits would be more useful though.
Ensure the keyboards are not covered in dust and dirt. Then, open them with a 5.5mm nut driver and clean the insides. Check for broken rivets. With luck, there won't be any and this won't be a problem. If so, you should be able to put both keyboards to good use quickly.
The smaller keyboard is a "regular" full-size Model M keyboard. You need to replace the two missing keycaps; you don't seem to have the necessary SDL to PS/2 cable to plug it to a computer, so you need to get one as well, plus a "bluecube" adapter. Another option is to get an SDL to USB cable.
The larger keyboard is a(n early) Model M122 terminal keyboard. You will need to get a Soarer's Converter cable to be able to plug this to a computer and use it as a regular keyboard). This cable has the added advantage of allowing the user to remap the key layout to fit his needs. Not to horn my own toot (or toot my own horn, whatever), but this is the remapping I use: https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/examples-of-soarer-converter-configuration-files-please-t8477.html#p390537 — note that everyone and their dog has their own opinion on how to remap all the extra keys, so don't be shy to change whatever you'll prefer to change.
Enjoy!
See:
https://www.amazon.com/Dynamite-DYN2803-Nut-Driver-5-5mm/dp/B000BQ4XP6/ (5.5mm nut driver)
http://clickykeyboards.com/product-category/original-ibm-model-m-replacement-key-caps/ (replacement caps)
http://clickykeyboards.com/product-category/replacement-model-m-sdl-to-ps2-keyboard-cables/ (SDL to PS/2 cable)
http://clickykeyboards.com/product-category/ps2-keyboard-to-usb-adapter-converters/ (bluecube adapter)
http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/category/accessories (replacement caps ["buttons"] and cable)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Soarers-Converter-Adapter-for-IBM-Model-F122-M122-Keyboard-Remapping-Macros/282575692501 (the proper type of Soarer's Converter for this particular M122, made and sold by orihalcon; ask him about a "regular" SDL to USB cable as well).
That one was on my short list of screwdrivers that fit what I was looking for.
Ultimately I went with Megapro 211R1C36RD 1-Inch 13-In-1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VJY1FQ
Mostly for the additional bit storage.
Reasons for choosing that is it looked like it had a smaller bit driver head so it would fit in tighter spots, and the extra bit storage was essential for me because I need phillips, flat, and torx security bits of a variety of sizes. I also have a small M12 impact that I like to use when I can and it helps when I have the bits that work with it, rather than some screwdrivers that come with the double ended bits. Instead of needing a separate bit storage case with me, I can keep them in my screwdriver which is already part of my kit wherever I go.
I like this micro driver so much, I bought another:
https://www.wihatools.com/system-4-esd-safe-slotted-phillips-torxr-micro-bit-set
For full-size, I prefer this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Megapro-211R1C36RD-1-Inch-Ratcheting-Automotive/dp/B004VJY1FQ
I see you have the Channellock branded one. Do you have the manufacturer's own brand, Megapro? They have many models.
This one's the Automotive one. It takes 1" bits instead of the longer double-ended bits.
Megapro 211R1C36RD 1-Inch 13-In-1 Ratcheting Automotive Driver Bits, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VJY1FQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aqiZCb3S0XQ66
And everyone's favorite Amazon tool brand for $5
Buy yourself [this] (https://www.amazon.ca/32557-Heavy-Duty-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver-Driver/dp/B005FQDH9A?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_7tlr6jh5qs_e) Klein screwdriver. It's one of the best tools I've ever owned.
Also, don't buy cheap tools like some of the other advice here. You (as a homeowner who wants to do stuff themselves) will regret it. Buy good quality stuff, it will last forever and it SO much easier to use.
List of stuff I'd buy if I were you:
Also, make sure that all battery operated equipment you buy is the same brand to avoid having to have a bunch of different type batteries and chargers around.
Yeah, if you tap it upside down, the insert inside the handle falls out of the big shaft, so the next time you pull the shaft out, the bits go flying. Extra hilarious when you work in a place with lots of floor grates. I got in the habit of giving it a little shake to see if it rattles first. Other than that, it's a nice driver. Thier combo nutdriver is also really nice, and can double as a blackjack if needed.
Edit: Here's the nutdriver.
If you have prime this one is cheaper I guess. And it has a real handle which is nice.
If you don't want to use a PS/2 to USB adapter, you have a couple of options. One somewhat difficult and one very easy. For both, you'll need to open up the keyboard with a tool like this.
The more difficult way is to use Soarer's Converter software running on a Teensy 2.0. This involves soldering the Teensy to the appropriate pins on the Model M's original controller and flashing the Soarer's Converter software to the Teensy.
I did this with an IBM Model F (AT) and it works great: https://imgur.com/a/ge80k
The easiest option is to purchase a replacement controller from Phosphor Glow. For this, you'll open up the keyboard, remove the original controller and put the new one in. No soldering involved unless you opt for the kit instead of the fully assembled and ready to go board.
I did this on one of my Model M keyboards: https://imgur.com/a/NY78q
drill
bits
those are what I use
This will change your life.
I've have tried and used the Stanly, Bahco, Wera and Williams (It was actually a Snapon. But the Williams and Snapon are basically Identical.) And would like to suggest the Megapro Ratcheting Automotive driver as the best Ratcheting screwdriver I have ever owned.
Really secure bit holding, and the magnet is very strong. Your bits become magnetic and the screw your holding on to. So you can easily screw them in upside down or pointing the driver directly down. The shaft does wobble slightly, but all the drivers on your list do have slight driver wobble. Even the very expensive Snapon driver I tried had it. It's just part of the design.
https://www.amazon.com/Megapro-211R1C36RD-1-Inch-Ratcheting-Automotive/dp/B004VJY1FQ/?ie=UTF8&qid=1493671965&sr=8-1&keywords=megapro+automotive+ratcheting+screwdriver
The only one I would recommend from your list is the Williams. As it's very well made and is basically a Snapon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L04vNx82zzA
Hope this Helps :)
Your bag may or may not be EDC by definition but here is a quick pack outline.
Bag: Vertx EDC Gamut
This is a CCW oriented bag, search LoadedPocketz and Youtube for reviews and the bag in action. There's a ton of organization in it for carrying lots of stuff, plus it's loaded with Velcro so you can either use Velcro add-on's or use their Tactigami to convert anything Molle to attach to their velcro.
Organizers - The Gamut is great but you might want to throw in something like a Maxpedition EDC/Beefy/Fatty to organize tools and supplies as needed, plus you can take them out of the bag if you want to be more mobile. E.G. leave bag in car but take IT toolkit with you to a site.
Tools:
Small light with multiple settings you so can use low settings for close up work with minimal reflection, or full brightness for other uses. Lots of lights will work for this purpose, headlamps work even better for hands-free but you'll look like a dork.
Then you have the EDC items you'll hear most people say:
If you're a business that does a decent amount of volume, and downtime is real bad, then those industrial supply stores are worthwhile. You're essentially paying extra for them to hold inventory of your supplies and deliver it on demand.
But if you're a small business or individual, then they make no sense. Home stores, construction oriented hardware stores, and Amazon are much better.
I just ordered these Malco driver handles on Amazon. Great price:
https://www.amazon.com/Malco-Connext1-Change-Standard-Driver/dp/B00JJ6ODBS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
The tech saw the realtree camo and said, eh... not today Bubba... not today.
Honestly though, go to Amazon, look for HP model # replacement screen.
Buy a 19.99 dollar laptop repair tool kit. https://smile.amazon.com/XOOL-Precision-Magnetic-Professional-Electronics/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1CMJEN7VSCGBV&keywords=laptop+repair+tool+kit&qid=1572397935&sprefix=laptop+rep%2Caps%2C268&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQ1BETU9PUFNEMEdMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDAyMzI0MzRDMUozTFdLT1U4UyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzg5MTQ3MTJIRzcyUDVFS0NJViZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Do it yourself.
Total cost is gonna be around 60 to 100 bucks, with screen and tools.
Actually, not that this matters but he is using THIS kit. I have used them at work and they are very good for the price point, but are much flimsier than the iFixit driver and tend to fall apart after about 6 months of regular use.
After watching the rest of the video it seems like it is a bit, although not in a haha way but more in a "we gave an ingnorant person tools and no instructions" way.
I'm about a year into home ownership and have been all about the improvement projects since moving in. Here's what I've found essential --
Obviously you can go on and on, but I've found these things out of a lot more that I've purchased most useful.
This is a really easy repair - most of the time, you will only need to a few screws from the bezel. I have replaced a lot of laptop screens; it generally takes about 15 minutes when you become proficient or about an hour if it is your first time.
As others have stated, the repair should not be too difficult if you do it yourself. Depending on the make and model of your laptop, there are likely half a dozen videos on Youtube or iFixIt.
When I need a screen, I purchase from this website. I have already selected Dell from the list of available brands. On the bottom of your laptop, thre should be a model name and model number. Once you obtain this information, you just select the model name from the list and then choose your model number. From there, you should only have two options, which will be based on your preference: matte or glossy screen finish. I prefer matte finishes as they are less likely to hold onto fingerprints and "stain smear". Side note - somtimes LCDs can have a connector on the left or right. In this case, you will want to dissect your laptop first to determine which screen you need.
You may be able to get a screen cheaper on eBay, but I like this website and have been ordering from them for years. They always have the screen delivered before the ETA and they pack them really well. I have never received a bad screen from them. Good customer service, too. They are legit.
You can check the site to see if they have a replacement video for your laptop - I think it should be listed on the pages that shows you the laptop screen for your computer in the lower portion of the screen (past the section where they offer you tools / accessories for your repair. See if it is something you are comfortable doing on your own before you get started. I would recommend getting your tools / accessories from Amazon. They have a really nice set here.
If you decide to do it yourself, I would just advise paying special attention to the following areas:
I think you should be fine doing this yourself. If you get stuck, you can PM me.
Not cylindrical, but does seem to hit the other points you're looking for:
http://amzn.com/B0031BX54I
Klien 10-Fold folding screwdriver. Looks like it can take standard 1/4" bits if needed.
More details on pages 72 & 73 of the catalog:
http://www.kleintools.com/sites/all/product_assets/documents/brochures/KleinTools_Drivers.pdf
Bro... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n.PyDbEWT98RR
I use this for work and it's pure gold.
You're setting yourself up for a fire or you could spend 20 bucks and get a toolkit.
Torpedo Level with a strong magnet
Extension Bit with quick change
Flexible drill bit extension
You might not use this every install or service but it comes in so clutch when you need it
Multi Screwdriver
A couple different size pipe wrenches. 6” and a 14” I recommend Rigid
Copper pipe cutters. You’ll need a Close quarters tubing cutter and a Large tubing cutter
Bulldog Snips
Edit: I’ll keep adding shit
You could try this. It’s just the basic screw driver bits with a couple torque and square bits. They also make some hex keys and torque specific 10-in-1s as well. Fits in a nylon leatherman sheath also.
Klein 10-in-1
I like the offerings from Megapro. Made in the USA (unlike the latest from Klein, which are increasingly made in China) with a lifetime warranty. The 15-in-1 is the standard, but the ratcheting model is great too.
Failure of the rebound axle straps is very common. Replacements that were made from poor quality rubber for many years compounded this. Many shredded when cars were jacked under the rear axle on one side, (which is quite normal) putting the weight of the car's rear on the opposite strap when the other wheel comes off the ground. I understand they are improving however, so the good news is that they are inexpensive because the vendors sell so many... As an alternative, many have gone with a nylon strap manufactured by Russ Koester, known as Strapping Lad...
https://sites.google.com/site/strappingladshop/home
I have them on my 'B's and have been very pleased.
A useful tip for that replacement process: Unless the nut holding the strap and washer on looks and feels like it will spin right off immediately, don't even try to put wrench force on it. It will sheer off the stud instead of breaking free. (You will notice that everyone sells kits to repair this because of this fact)
Instead, invest in a Nut splitting tool. Very handy for any classic car restorer. It's essentially a big chisel that you screw into the edge of a nut to crack it and destroy it instead of destroying everything. Then you just buy two new nuts instead of figuring out how to repair the mounting stud.
Looks like this Nut Splitter on Amazon
Yes, definitely do all you can with the engine in the car. For most of us, the procedure for pulling the motor involves removing it (and installing) with the gearbox attached and reconnecting the gearbox to the rear crossmember can be frustrating if you've never done it.
Take the normal precautions. Never turn an engine manually with the ignition key on. I usually disconnect the coil, just to be double sure that the motor will not fire when I'm cranking it over by hand.
My personal opinion is that the Astley book is not only a great resource for MGB electrical demons, but is one of the best automotive reference books I've ever come across.
Take a peek on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/MGB-Electrical-Systems-Updated-Essential/dp/1787110524
Modern, useful, thorough, colourful, well illustrated. Puts other manuals to shame. You may be fortunate and a ray of light will shine down on you and you'll be the one person who works on an MGB without any electrical issues...
But probably not. ;-)
I just got a cheap one on amazon, but if you pull stuff apart frequently, you may want to pay the ~$20 for a set of tech bits
XOOL 80 in 1 Precision Set with Magnetic Driver Kit, Professional Electronics Repair Tool Kit with Portable Oxford Bag for Repair Cell Phone, iPhone, iPad, Watch, Tablet, PC, MacBook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cNpHDbZ0J0BZQ
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/PlayStation+4+Power+Supply+Replacement/24719
Philips #1 and TR9 Torx
You should be able to get a kit that has a bunch of standard screw bits from Lowes, Home Depot, or Walmart. Amazon has precision screwdriver kits with other tools for common tech repairs. I have this one and it works well.
Try a nut splitter. Pretty cheap tool. Has saved me a few times.
https://www.amazon.com/Nut-Splitter-Tools-2-Pc-Cal-Hawk/dp/B0000AX88Q
If you want a megapro multi driver I highly recommend this one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VJY1EC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mVF.BbCNT3FQH
https://www.amazon.com/Driver-Magnetic-Klein-Tools-32807MAG/dp/B07D4M51DQ/ref=asc_df_B07D4M51DQ/
How about this?
Klein Tools 32535 10-Fold 10-in-1 Screwdriver/Nut Driver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031BX54I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hWowCbMKB81QR
https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Driver-Klein-Tools-32596/dp/B073R7RT1V
This is what I carry. You will still need a beater flat blade screwdriver.
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0031BX54I
Actually Amazon has a number of choices.
This is a selection of what I keep in my tech go-bag. You'll build your kit as you learn and build experience, or realize you could have helped a customer out of a jam quicker if you had that tool with you.
Various extra parts I've accumulated over the years like screws, ATX Molex Power to SATA Power Adapters, ATX Molex Y splitters, SATA cables etc..
Good luck and some tools overlap like multi tools and pliers so if budget is low, go with the tool that covers the most jobs.
Edit: I noticed your bag is kind of expensive compared to something like a Dewalt tool bag. I use a plain Dewalt bag which is not as cool as the one in the link, but it's just as tough. This might be a good and less expensive consideration for you if you don't require the look of a briefcase for your tool bag.
Edit 2: You may want to mark your tools with a wrap of some crazy bright color electrical tape to be able to recognize them when they walk away.
http://www.amazon.com/Handgun-pusher-Universal-Standard-Blocks/dp/B0125M9LRS/ref=lp_12588458011_1_1?srs=12588458011&ie=UTF8&qid=1453929190&sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O5ILUM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
Or you can use a hammer and punch for rear sight. Secure it in a wise and gently tap it out.
I've been eyeing those AirConsoles for a while. A good flashlight is great. That screwdriver someone mentioned was cool.
I have this one and like it a lot.
Folks have mentioned the smaller Leatherman tools here. I liked this one so much, I bought one for both of my key rings.
I use a Klein 10 in 1 for my screwing needs.
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32535-10-Fold-Screwdriver-Driver/dp/B0031BX54I/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_14
I have one of those but I prefer the Lenox. It's so good that bastards have robbed my last two.
If you’re going to be opening up laptops, might as well invest in quality tools.
$21 “iFixit” kit.
I don’t know what your laptop needs, but I’m
99% sure that this’ll have what you need and then some.
Amazon Link
You should be able to get a nut driver that you can use in a impact driver, or a drill if you don't have a driver.
Like these(sorry for the mobile link, I'm on my phone):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007BLZ7TK/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_469_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H5AN44D0D057DX2H1EVX
I put the standard trijicon 3 dots on my glock 19. You're in a hurry so this won't be much help but for anyone else who's interested in Trijicons they are sold on amazon. If you use camelcamelcamel and set a pricewatch you can save some $$$.
I bought mine when they dropped to $65.
Pricewatch link just add your email
http://camelcamelcamel.com/Glock-Pistol-Front-Night-Sight/product/B000LJUS4I
You can also install the sights yourself if needed. I used this tool and some locktight on the front.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O5ILUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And for the back I padded a friends vise and grabbed the slide and tapped it out with a cheap brass punch set from harbor freight.
Nut splitter
$70 is pretty expensive for the tools listed. You can cut the cost by nearly half if you just go on Amazon and look for a phone repair kit, (I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i8BIAbZ106DHH )
This includes most of what you'll need, the only thing missing is a source of heat and soldering iron.
For heat you can use a heat gun (low setting, these can get really hot!) or even a hair dryer/hand warmers will do in a pitch, although it will probably take longer.
Thanks for this, Im already worried about one controller failing, I'll definitely grab another set and see if I can't repair these for a backup.
Maybe this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4M51DQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-dOjDb29RRV10
Hmm, maybe invest in a kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wdTvDb69G7GWN. Not sure if they have specifically what would help, but they might.
It's actually this Megapro ratcheting 13-in-1 driver and, I feel like a right nerd for saying this, is legitimately my favorite screw driver I've ever owned.
it's something that should be checked every 30k for most honda motors, and the factory adjustment schedule is about 100k miles. it really helps to have the 10mm valve adjusment tool with the screwdriver in it. using two tools at once sucks really bad. get that and a set of feeler gages, as well as the right size socket for the crank pulley bolt, and you'll be fine.
this is the tool i use: http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648827-2-Inch-Valve-Adjustment/dp/B0002Q8TU0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370837776&sr=8-1&keywords=honda+valve+adjustment+tool
Keep a set of nut splitters in your toolbox and save yourself future frustration.
Never. Keep one in the house to put together furniture but that's it. I don't like them, I can screw stuff in faster with a regular screwdriver by holding the bit with one hand lightly and twirling the grip with my other hand.
This Lenox 9-in-1 is by far the best multi-screwdriver I've ever used (and I've tried almost everything on the market). And it's only 8 dollars. I bought two because they are so sturdy.
This one is so great because the bits do not jiggle around when using it, so it feels like a solid screwdriver.
If you're willing to carry a screwdriver, I carry this screwdriver in my backpack and it's seen me through many an impromptu repair.
What kind of experience are you guys coming into this with?
Do you have mentors/are you yourselves familiar with the use and safety precautions necessary around power tools?
What kind of space are you in? Do you have a dedicated space to use or do you need to move things in and out of an area every meeting?
How much do you want to learn? Are you planning on using primarily Matrix/Tetrix this season or do you want to do custom fabrication?
If you're planning on using chain, I'd recommend getting at least one of these (Dark Soul #25 chain tool). You won't need to use master links again, and they're just in general great to have around.
I would definitely recommend getting Anderson Powerpole tools and items. Definitely get a TriCrimp and associated wire, connectors, and contacts, if you don't have them already.
I'd also recommend a few tools that come in useful just in general when it comes to FTC-- a good adjustable wrench is good to have around, whether you're doing custom or not. A ratcheting screwdriver is also good to have around, in addition to more standard versions. I'd also recommend my personal favorite allen wrenches (you can get just metric or standard sets, but I linked the paired version). For taking care of stuck bolts or anything else stuck, a good pair of locking pliers are also great. Also getting some good pliers for all your electrical needs is a good idea. Also extremely useful is a good square. On a similar note, a level is good for checking whether you actually bolted that part on straight.
You should also get a general set of combo wrenches and some of the specific sizes most common for FTC. Pretty much any reputable brand is fine for this-- don't spend more than about $50 for a set and $10 for an individual wrench (honestly, that would be super high, you should probably target half of that). A decent ratchet set is also good, but not absolutely essential.
Other good things to have around are a heat gun or heat bar (for doing custom plastic parts for your robot). You can do some great stuff with some creativity and some sheet polycarbonate.
To go with that, a vinyl cutter is great for doing sponsor decals and general cool stuff.
As far as "essentials" go, that depends on where you want to go. If you want to do lots of custom work-- or use something like 80/20, then you'll want some other tools to do that work. A good power drill is absolutely essential, and if you have the space, I'd definitely recommend getting a solid miter saw and an aluminum cutting blade (I know some people consider them too dangerous, but with proper safety training and precautions, I've never had a student or mentor get injured with one).
As far as materials for doing custom work go, I'd recommend getting some box aluminum (1x1 and 1x2) tubing, 1/8" and 1/16" polycarbonate (I'm partial to the dark tinted stuff, but it's a bit more expensive), and a full assortment of #6 and maybe #8 hardware. You'll also want some M3 screws for face mounting AndyMark and REV robotics motors. I like to use Copper State for this, because while they have a totally garbage web ordering system, their prices are great, and their website isn't that bad (to be honest, I'm a bit spoiled by McMaster-Carr).
You probably don't need me to tell you what kind of COTS parts might be good (if that's within the scope of this money). Electronics, good phones (not those stupid ZTEs), motors, are all good.
You'll notice that I'm not suggesting the very budget stuff-- while you can go that direction if you need to, quality tools help you get quality results. If you have the money to get and use the right tools for the job, I always recommend doing that as opposed to cheaping out with something you'll just end up breaking and messing up your robot with later.
A decent chunk of the tools I linked are suggested by my personal favorite review site, The WireCutter/SweetHome. I've used the majority of them, and my experience has been good enough that I don't have an issue recommending their suggestions for other tools relevant to FTC.
Hopefully that was somewhat helpful. I'd definitely consider the answers to the questions at the top-- they can help you narrow down what will actually be useful for you. I can definitely give more specific suggestions if you know what direction you're taking with robot building techniques and how much space you have/ whether you have to move.
As suggested before, this kind of thing for a "career" isn't very sustainable. Coming from an actual phone/tablet repair job, even my boss understood and pointed out this career path is hard to make a career out of when I put in my two weeks. Great skill to pick up and if possible I'd pick it up as a hobbie though you're likely to run into issues and potentially break phones if you don't have a guide/mentor as I did.
For guides I'd use:
Ifixit.com
The website is pretty self explanatory to use and the guides provided are relatively vague but get the job done. My time of employment gave me a more in depth guide on all repairs however that is exclusive to the job. My biggest point of advice if you want to use this is, KEEP TRACK OF YOUR SCREWS AND WHERE THEY GO.
For a tool kit I'd recommend:
XOOL 80 in 1 Precision Screwdriver Set with Magnetic Driver Kit, Professional Electronics Repair Tool Kit with Portable Oxford Bag for Repair Cell Phone, iPhone, iPad, Watch, Tablet, PC, MacBook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RDF633L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GnwhDbMAAX3KJ
It's relatively cheap and comes with all the essentials except for a heat gun (which you'll need to do various android device repairs such as Samsungs and pixels as well as any kind of tablet)
But I agree it is a really awesome and badass feeling to fix phones/tablets since everyone is incredibly dependent on their devices in our era. If you do make it as a hobby, you wouldn't make as much profit so much as to gaining a reputation to fix phones instead. However, parts can get expensive and mistakes can be made especially if you lack a guide/mentor.
In the end, if you can find a job doing this type of stuff, I'd pick up all the skills there and get out asap. These skills can be very useful in the normal everyday life with how many drops and spills friends/family can make with their phones. In California where I was making $14 after mastering all types of repairs, I still felt underpaid for my experience and knowledge of tablets/devices since minimum wage was already $12.
Edit: I just read the title for "side job". By all means if it doesn't get in the way of your priorities then go for it!
Cheers mate!
The woman selling didn't even care to look in the box.
​
That said, completely agree about the nut drivers. Plan is to sell them and get this: https://www.amazon.com/Driver-Magnetic-Klein-Tools-32807MAG/dp/B07D4M51DQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=klein+in-1&qid=1563712815&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
This thing: https://www.amazon.com/Lenox-Tools-23932-Multi-Tool-Driver/dp/B0013NX2DA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495706886&sr=8-1&keywords=lenox+multi+screwdriver
I use this screwdriver for just about every project I have. Plus it comes built in with some socket drivers. Very handy
Klein multibit tool. Have one in every tool box.
can ibuy this one instead? since its a Little lesser and should be the same type?
80 in 1 Precision Screwdriver Set with Magnetic Driver Kit, Professional Electronics Repair Tool Kit with Portable Oxford Bag for Repair Cell Phone, iPhone, iPad, Watch, Tablet, PC, MacBook and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_lYOYBbBBN58ZQ
If you want a bit type, id recommend starting with this 23 Pc Husky ratcheting precision set which covers every computer/laptop need I've run into. Or this TEKTON Everybit set.
For individual type I recommend the TEKTON Brand. Here is a set that has the PH0-PH2 like you need and some other flat heads. Torx Here, Nut Drivers Here. Though you can filter the nut drivers into SAE/Metric or buy by individual need.
If you really need/want magnetic tips, sub that screwdriver set i sent with something like this Cause magnetic tips are handy. Another brand I highly recommend is Milwaukee for both insulated and non-insulated drivers
See if you can get a hold of a nut splitter/breaker/cracker like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Nut-Splitter-Tools-2-Pc-Cal-Hawk/dp/B0000AX88Q
I couldn't find an adapter online, they usually come with cases. Here's a full tool though. https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26547-Precision-Driver-Inch/dp/B000O5ILUM
The basic tools you need to handle most jobs are:
You can get really cheap tools at Harbor Freight. People will tell you they're shit tools, and they sometimes are, but you don't necessarily need lifetime-quality tools for all jobs. Start out with the cheap ones, if you break it, get a better quality one next time.
The new 7 in 1 includes the 1/2".
https://www.amazon.com/Driver-Magnetic-Klein-Tools-32807MAG/dp/B07D4M51DQ
These are my two uncommon but frequently used tools, This guy cause I hate carrying around tons of nut drivers https://www.amazon.com/Driver-NutDriver-Klein-Tools-32800/dp/B01I0QVP18
And this one because I do a lot of bucket truck work and often need to use an adjustable but they get loose and sometimes dropped.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549061734&sr=8-5&keywords=locking+adjustable+wrench
Bike tool: https://www.amazon.com/VeloChampion-multiple-philips-slotted-screwdrivers/dp/B007SZ4XJ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1549084773&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bike+multitool
Screwdrivers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0031BX54I/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549085065&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65
Small cheap box cutter: https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-EAB-Pocket-Knife-22-41830/dp/B0016KHW2W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549085135&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gerber+eab&dpPl=1&dpID=31EagLhoGPL&ref=plSrch
It doesn’t use 1/4” bits, but it has onboard but storage... Megapro makes an excellent screwdriver that’s got a really great ratcheting action on it. The grip is also quite comfortable. Megapro is also the OEM of Channellock’s version which is very... Blue.
If you’re dead set on utilizing 1/4” bits, Rolgear makes a silent/smooth ratcheting driver that is a joy to use. My only gripe about it is that the handle is a bit small. There’s also a 6” version available that Reddit isn’t letting me link for some reason. Apart from the longer shaft, the grip is supposed to be more substantial. However, I can’t speak from experience as I don’t own it.
My recommendation is the Lennox 9-in-1. Sorry its not a 10-in-1. https://www.amazon.com/Lenox-Tools-23932-Multi-Tool-Driver/dp/B0013NX2DA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493315025&sr=8-1&keywords=lenox+11+in+1+screwdriver It is very well made and durable.
https://www.amazon.com/Megapro-211R1C36RD-1-Inch-Ratcheting-Automotive/dp/B004VJY1FQ
The 1391401 is considered the quintessential Model M. It is usually what people are thinking of when they think of Model Ms. Generally, the earlier 1986 - 1988 Model Ms are the more highly desirable ones as they have thicker backplates and a more solid construction. (btw the 1391401 began production in early 1987) A few of my most prized Ms are from this 1986 era, especially the ones that have a barcode label on the back.
They then went through a few stages of cost cutting, so the case and the backplate are a little thinner as the years go on but the buckling spring switch mechanics were relatively unchanged. The keyboards are still quite nice, and there are quite a few from the later years that I really like a lot.
In 1993, some employees bought the keyboard division of IBM and renamed themselves Lexmark. The backplates and case become thinner still. Although they definitely feel a little "lighter," they are still nice keyboards and really fun to type on. That being said, it is apparent as you become familiar with them, that the molds that were used to stamp the parts out started getting rougher and less precise, and the keycap legends are not quite as sharp and bold.
One of the things I love most about Ms, is that they are tremendously durable and easy to clean up and make look new or near new. Just takes a 5.5mm (or 7/32) nut driver with thin walls to remove the case (I bought this one and it has served me nicely - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQ4XP6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Lots of guides on cleaning up Ms to be found on the web.
As a first M, I think a 1391401 is a perfect one to look for. There are a lot of Ms on ebay, however a lot of sellers seem to think theirs are worth hundreds of dollars and most aren't. There were millions of these keyboards sold, so most standard models are not rare at all. With some patience and persistent browsing, you can find a nice one for a very modest amount of $. I have found more than a few (often quite dirty) from between $30 - $50, which I think is a good range to aim for - depending on age, condition etc. You probably want to avoid a Terminal M as your first, as it will take a bit more work/money to get working with a modern computer.
Also, you will likely save money by finding one that has a SDL - PS2 cable, as buying one on its own will likely cost a few more dollars. When you do, if you don't have a PS2 connection on your pc, you will need an active adapter. The Sanoxy blue cube is perfect -
https://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-PS2-Keyboard-USB-Adapter/dp/B000BSJFJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493617382&sr=8-1&keywords=sanoxy+blue+cube
It's cheap and works well and is endorsed by clickykeyboards, the foremost restorer and expert on Model Ms. He has written my favorite buyers guide on them:
http://www.clickeykeyboards.com/model-m-buyers-guide/
https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648827-2-Inch-Valve-Adjustment/dp/B0002Q8TU0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504850318&sr=8-3&keywords=valve+adjustment+tool
I was having major issues getting my adjustments to stay with a wrench because it would always spec out when I tightened. This tool just does both, but it's a million times simpler with it IMO.
Screen: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCVPO9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_9QJWDbYMTVHP6
Tools:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ETJWDb4BP4WG1
I'm sorry, I can't find the lens anywhere.
Get the sight pusher if you think you might own more than one Glock or if you might want to experiment with a couple different sight setups.
I've got one pretty much like this and it's more than paid for itself.
Edit - There's also this one for the front sight. I have this, but it was really too deep for me, so I filled most of the socket with Gorilla Glue and it's perfect now.
https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648827-2-Inch-Valve-Adjustment/dp/B0002Q8TU0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502803631&sr=8-1&keywords=valve+adjuster
this tool works great for quick adjustments.
the hardest thing on the valve adjustment job is getting the damn valve cover back on the engine.
The tool that you can get from makerbeam fits (barely). You might have better luck looking for a similar type of thing rather than just the socket. Maybe something like this:
Dynamite Nut Driver: 5.5mm, DYN2803 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQ4XP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KZO4DbQGA03X5
I have one of those, the 2x4 version though, and it came with a nut driver.
I'm not sure the size of the nut but if you lose the driver it comes with or yours doesn't come with one for some reason you can buy sets of bits like this for cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2938-Quick-Change-Detents-14-Piece/dp/B007BLZ7TK
Of course you'll also then need a bit driver like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-69-189-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B002I3TDP0
I use this for almost everything: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ke6RCbBTP6KWJ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ6ODBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C5kQCbGYRXY8Y
I have this set and I love them for DIY stuff
https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Metric-Driver-Zippered-9-50209/dp/B01GF0F9M2
Cheaper here:
https://m.kmart.com/craftsman-10-pc-nutdriver-set-in-zippered-case/p-00950209000P
They are actually made in USA. They aren't fully hollow but I only ever ran into a issue because of that once and my combo ratcheting wrench took care of it
There's also these made in USA Tektons https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078HLCKK4
Edit: the Craftsman set I have is made in USA, but apparently they aren't anymore, not sure.
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-32557-Heavy-Duty-Screwdriver/dp/B005FQDH9A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375016269&sr=8-2&keywords=Klein+9+in+1
The heavy duty Klein which matches the greenlee tool lay out actually does specifically mention having a hex driver.
I don't use torx often, but the times I've encountered it, at least I had a screw driver that could turn it.
I prefer the Klein for the added functions. The one time you encounter that torx screw, you would pay ANYTHING to be able to open it. So $8 difference is a joke.
Although I prefer the old klein multi, that doesn't have that big fat ass shaft on it. Pretty sure this is it.
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-7580-Nut-Splitter-2-Piece/dp/B000NPZ4ZI
A 5-in-1 screwdriver.
Nobody ever seems to have a decent screwdriver.
This will be super handy: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Q8TU0
If you haven't already bought one, this is what I got. It's a much better bargain than the 30 dollar Glock sight tool. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O5ILUM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$8.29 with prime shipping.
they make a model which takes standard bits
Klein just came out with this beautiful new hvac 6-1. It's perfect for diagnostics and light maintenance when you don't want to lug a bag, and it's so new I doubt he has one. I also love these.
EDIT: I totally linked the wrong tool in the first link. THIS is the beautiful tool I meant to share, although the first is very handy too.
Nice! Right now i'm borrowing an adapter from my computer class teacher while mine comes in. it has been probably a month since i ordered it, but i still have to wait until the 28th of January. I you want to open it, i suggest you get one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQ4XP6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00) because the hole to get to the screw on it is very narrow. also denture tabbing your key caps is so worth it for the minimal effort.
double drive - do you mean one where the shaft rotates twice as fast as the handle?
or do you mean one of these (which is fine on case screws and PCI cards)
I always like non-bulky screwdrivers, but most of my computer stuff recently has been smaller stuff like mac laptops which have super-tiny screws.