Best oil funnels according to redditors
We found 113 Reddit comments discussing the best oil funnels. We ranked the 31 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 113 Reddit comments discussing the best oil funnels. We ranked the 31 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Last year a buddy and I took a 1300 mile trip around Colorado /r/dualsport ride on a Husqvarna 701 and a Yamaha WR250R. Here's a photo of the gear from last year.
This year we are adding one person (riding a monster, brand new, KTM 1090 Adventure R) to the crew and moving a little farther west to see some of the amazing sites in Utah. I put together a 1500 mile route, and will tack on White Rim Trail (if we can get passes) and wander around in Beef Basin for a bit.
A few of my friends have started using Polar Steps, so I've setup a trip and will try to keep it updated. I also maintain a simple website and will post photos on my flickr account.
Now, on to the fun, because sorting out gear and packing is half the fun of a /r/motocamping trip.
I'm involved in volunteer search and rescue (/r/searchandrescue) so a lot of this gear comes from my callout pack and extended incident command packs. The more experienced riders will notice that I'm lacking any tools, spares, tube slime, etc. I'm fortunate enough to be riding with 2 other riders that are packing all that jazz.
Two mottos:
motorcycle
navigation
photgraphy
medical and hygiene
wearing
sleeping
inclement weather
food
motorcycle
clothing
luggage
misc
Specifically for my truck I have:
a flexing spark plug socket like this one and spark plug pullers
An OBD II Scanner
Auto jack(s)
An oil pan and an oil filter wrench or other tool that makes the filter easier to remove
And, of course, jumper cables, a poncho or two, some spare water bottles and all that good stuff that stays in the truck too.
Edit: Honestly, this is a great place to start--Stanley 65-Piece Homeowner's Tool Kit
just buy the Lisle Right angle funnel. its only $11 and has alot of uses.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MEPIU4M/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VSYEB7H1NQTT7XGC94T9
I used to use a paint funnel with a built in strainer like this
https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Strainer-Funnel-Filter-50-Pack/dp/B01H7PECMW/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1509553063&sr=1-3&keywords=paint+filter+funnel&dpID=31KrlmRVVmL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
But now i use this and then again with a coffee filter in it
https://www.amazon.com/New-Star-Foodservice-42641-Detachable/dp/B00GBG8NW4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1509553140&sr=8-5&keywords=stainless+funnel&dpID=41ZpLTEb22L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
> Jesus Christ I spill all the time
Amazon
O'Reillys
Ayy a set of 4
This looks fancy
Id start with something line this starter set, a 3/8 breaker bar, 1/2 breaker bar, a Decent torque wrench, a plier set, vice grips, channel locks, adjustable wrench, screw driver set, a multimeter, decent scan tool, a jack, a funnell some drain pans from walmart, pb blaster, jack stands and make some wheel chocks. I'm sure I'm missing something pertinent, but remember you can rent some tools at your local parts store for free with a deposit so check to see what they rent before you buy. Also buy the remainder of the tools as you need them, its tough buying a lot of tools at once especially once you develop an affinity for some quality tools. A lot of the youtube guys have videos on what they use they most, but what I've listed should cover most maintenance tasks for your car.
bleed the system properly.
I can almost guarantee you have air in the system. if you're not noticing the level dropping.
to bleed the car properly watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU
you can get that funnel off amazon Lisle spill free funnel
you can certainly do it without that funnel but you'll be in for a messy/sticky job and you'll let fluid spill all over the damn place.
Here is the filter you need (just search for the model number on Amazon and you can buy it there. Your model number is KN-138). For oil, I run Rotella Synthetic, but any 5W-40 or 10W-40 will work (the 5 and 10 just designate the temperature at which it will still run well, ie 5 C or 10 C. I live in the north east so I go for 5 for peace of mind). Regardless of which you choose, you'll need about 2.9 quarts for a full (ie with filter) change.
Get some nitrile gloves (especially for spreading oil on the filter when you install it), shop towels for clean up, and you may want to look into getting a new crush washer for the drain bolt (not sure if/when yours has ever been replaced. They can last a while, but it's not a bad idea to replace it if you aren't sure). An oil filter clamp isn't a bad idea to help with getting them off, but I doubt you'll have issue with it. Don’t forget a good oil drain pan (I recommend this one with a screw in, top spout – this is what the oil would drain into – the oil filter holder on the top so it can drain over 24 hours, as well as a front spout), as well as a funnel to help you get the oil in.
Let me know if you need help with anything else. I've found these instructions helpful for those new to it and they are the exact same for you, too. What do you need to change the rectifier for?
You can change your oil every 1year or 10k miles, whichever comes first. That is what is in your Owner's Manual. If you want to be a bit more proactive/protective, more often is not a bad thing. I do mine every 5k to 7500k. If it's going off "early" it's due to date of manufacture and when the oil was first put in and it may not be a bad idea to change it.
You should stick to the oil weight listed under your hood or in your owners manual. If your car says VW508.00 and/or 0w-20, stick to that spec. If your car says VW502.00 5w-30/5w-40 you can safely use the Mobil1 you purchased as it meets 502 spec.
Filters should be replaced at every oil change. Use only good quality filters like Mann or Mahle or Vaico (all VW OE manufacturers). I have links to cheapest spots I've found all the filters for the MK7 in the Wiki here. https://old.reddit.com/r/GolfGTI/wiki/index
Extractor is just fine. I've been using it for years without issues on three MK7s. You will want to get the filter housing socket, it's a 32mm socket. Any one will do, you could probably pick one up at Napa.
You absolutely need a funnel, especially if you have never done this before. A word of warning, don't get a funnel and jam it way down in there. Just rest it there on the fill hole. Hold the funnel with one hand and fill with the other. I don't know if this holds true on MK7s and I don't want to find out, but there is a small cover inside the fill hole that could be knocked loose on previous gen cars by jamming a funnel down in there. There are even specialty funnels for VW/Audi applications such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Engine-Vehicles-Threaded/dp/B016FVJUX0 and then getting the adapter Motive MX2301A3 for VW/Audi.
Go get yourself a roll or two of the blue shop towels and have a cardboard box or plastic bag handy for your used oil filter. You will also need a pick or small flat blade screwdriver to be able to replace the oil filter housing seal.
Someone needs to get one of these things to fill/bleed coolant. Pretty standard stuff.
MOst used tool I see is the spill free funnel for radiators: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
They were Walmart ventless 5Gallon. The spouts are the new EPA ones and they suck! I would suggest getting a long 12" oil funnel and not using the spouts. But the ventless made it great to stash in the cab when leaving the truck unattended. The linked ones also are heavy plastic.
funnel: https://www.amazon.com/Plews-75-068-Super-Funnel-Capacity/dp/B000G7AJUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539629148&sr=8-2&keywords=oil+funnel+long
​
gas cans: https://express.google.com/u/0/product/14075393257875197736_15875286630903633256_8175035?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=tu_cu&utm_content=eid-lsjeuxoeqt,eid-4160052&gtim=CNzB0dKo-Zec-gEQmePz5_GUp616GIDaxAkiA1VTRCiQ2aTeBTC7-_ID&utm_campaign=8175035&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1_-A8I2J3gIVkIxpCh3f8QInEAQYAiABEgKSHPD_BwE
From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.
However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:
Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.
Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.
Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)
Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.
Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.
This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...
Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)
Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.
Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)
Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.
I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.
Lisle 19342 Multi App Oil Funnel Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016QB9Q56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VAXCyb3PPXNH3
I use this on my 3MZ and love it
And well, everything else it fits
Great for anything with a baffled Valve Cover, which is almost everything these days
Oh no I knew it was you because it flags me when you post my username. I just thought it was funny someone thought what I said was cool enough to bear repeating.
Side note I personally have done all the services that can be done to a car to my own car (2010 Equinox with now roughly 80,000 miles on it) just because I wanted to know if they actually had any benefit. After induction cleaning (I did it at Ford with their method) I noticed that my gas mileage actually went down for about two full tanks of gas but when it rebounded I gained about two miles per gallon highway. (I lived about 20 minutes by highway from work so 90% of my driving was on the interstate). This data was confirmed by a fellow tech who also did his Nissan Altima at the same time. We both complained about it to each other and found it amusing that we had the same result.
Some dealerships swear by a company/product called BG who makes this stuff. The ones we used at the dealership actually came with a can of CF5 instead of 44k as the 44k is a stronger chemical for fuel cleaning and our BG rep said to use it for induction/fuel cleaning and the CF5 was for regular maintenance use but honestly both methods work. If you decide you want to use this stuff this funnel is made to fit the cans and makes pouring the 44k into the gas tank way easier. Also that price for them as a set is what we charged at the dealer which after tax came out to roughly 42 bucks. Buying them on Amazon individually seems to cost way more for some reason.
Point of me telling you this is that what we did was use that red can (EPR) BEFORE we changed your oil and ran at idle for 10-15 minutes then drained the oil and replaced the filter. We added the Cf5 (or in the linked instance the 44k which actually works better) to the fuel system and when we refilled the oil in the engine we added the MOA(Blue can) to the engine oil accounting for the capacity difference in oil (it's 11 ounces of MOA which is roughly 0.3 quarts which really only matters for finicky shit like Fords 1.6 Ecoboost garbage). When done by us at the dealership and continued on a maintenance program BG actually warranties the engine against break down. They also have chemicals for all other liquids like brake fluid and trans and coolant and the like. My father used it in his F150 and his trans went out and they covered the replacement cost which was something like 2500 or so USD. Anywho long ass story short those chemicals I still use every oil change cycle in my own car and while I don't really notice and major performance difference I have noticed that that my engine runs very smooth and when I watch the data on my diagnostic tablet (Snap On Solus for those who are curious) everything is running damn near perfect still after 6 years and 80,000 miles and I still have factory everything inside the engine (including spark plugs!) except oil, coolant, and air filters and the like. You know shit you're supposed to change from time to time.
Basically a lot of shit they offer I think is straight up bullshit (like getting coolant, brake fluid, and trans fluid swapped out way too often/too soon) but the BG oil change additive shit and the induction cleaning maybe every 30-40k or so depending on how you drive is something I do to my own car and if I do it to mine then I guess you can trust that I'm not selling you snake oil. Also fact check your dumbass service advisor. I had one who was notorious for selling power steering flushes on cars that don't fucking have hydraulic power steering! Dafuq yo? I've also had one that had this little old lady getting a fucking induction service with EVERY oil change. Worlds cleanest fuel induction system. We finally caught her because the lady came to another advisor and asked why we didn't recommend the "flush thingy".
If you are in the states then absolutely not, just because it has a nice front end doesn't add $3k worth of value, a car with engine problems assume you'll have to replace the engine and if you don't then woo! But knowing ka's the overheating issue is going to be air in the system and I say that with like 85% certainty, jack up the front of the car and blast the heater as you shake it and squeeze hoses to get all of the air bubbles out, this might even be a good idea if you are going to own a 240 and do your own work. If really helps when bleeding coolant, I use one often at the shop I work at.
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OBLLxbQ4KG5RJ
The easiest way is to just break down and pay for a Lisle funnel. They make the whole process incredibly easy and they're worth every penny. I spent a day or two dicking around with bubbles and squeezing and revving and all that and THEN bought the damn funnel. Or ask if a friend has one. It took 20 minutes to do and the system has been great for a few months now.
this is another one of those inexpensive useful gadgets that gets used a lot in a shop:
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/LSC4487/universal-lift-support-clamp/
So is this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-41250-Push-Pin-Pliers/dp/B00EARCXXG/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494551818&sr=1-2&keywords=body+clip+pliers
And this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
Yeah. I did a top-fill using a nifty tool from Amazon. I drained using the exterior metal plug and let it stop. Then removed the inner plastic tube and let it drain all the way out. While that was goin I removed the battery and intake box, removed the filter and cleaned the inner threads as well as the filter housing. Applied clean fluid around the new seal and replaced in the channel it sits in. I then replaced the inner tube drain plug and stuck my funnel and tube tool directly into the hole where the filter rests and filled 1L at a time. Then replaced the exterior drain plug hand-tight and let the transmission get up to temperature. Car was fairly hot from driving earlier in the day still so it was pretty quick to drain and get back up to temp. Let it run and then removed the metal plug to drain excess and then torqued it back in with the fresh washer. Easy peasy!
The tool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH4V0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xVzKBbGV45VK5
I dunno, I'm a big funnel fan. Makes life so much easier! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH4V0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ILMKub0822GJN
You have an air bubble in the head, so the temp sensor is largely reading the temperature of the much cooler air.
It's tricky to bleed a miata cooling loop fully, if the car is relatively level water pressure won't ever push air out and you'll have an air pocket that never moves. Raising the front end as much as possible helps, otherwise you can get a fill bucket like this.
https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE
You should also run the car with the cap off till the thermostat opens, then top it off and cap it off. If you just fill it up and cap it off it is certainly half full of air and might not even have enough coolant to actuate the thermostat.
This video is also super useful if you have a ton of air in the system. For example, after a radiator or hose replacement. I use a spill-free funnel when using this method to avoid the mess that comes from pulling the funnel off the radiator when finished. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
Honda, in the 80s and 90s, had a reputation for making strange automatic transmissions.
They are heavily based on their manual gearboxes, but they are mated to a torque converter instead of a clutch, and an automatic shifting assembly which can up and downshift fairly quickly. The result made for an efficient, lightweight and small gearbox. The drawback was that it needed to be maintained differently.
This gearbox has special clutches inside of it which requires a type of fluid the only Honda makes, as cars aged their owners would either a) not know how to maintain the car properly or b) do the fluid changes at the right intervals, using a "universal" aftermarket fluid (Valvoline, Mobil 1, STP, Castrol).
Trouble with this is, using the wrong fluid at the right intervals was worse for the gearbox than not changing the fluid at all.
Honda's suggested service interval was 60K for the first one, then every 30K subsequently after that, and they only require a simple 3 quart drain and refill, so the service was fairly cheap ~$50.
The reason for the frequent fluid changes was due to the transmission having no filter, this saved materials costs to the consumer and labor for that matter, but it meant the fluid needed to be changed twice as frequently.
When I acquired my 2005 Honda civic, with its very similar 4 speed automatic to yours, it too was shifting hard up and down, it wasn't terrible but it wasn't right, the hotter the gearbox got the worse the shifts would be.
Heres what I did, and what you should do;
If you do this process, and the shifting situation stays the stay, or gets worse, than the gearbox needs a rebuild due to failing clutches.
a Throttle position sensor or any other sensor for the ECU to figure out how hard you are pushing the engine would throw a check engine light, is the check engine light on? If it isn't I would start with the fluid service, I am going to hazard a guess you have never done it in the past.
Ok, I didn't force the thermostat, it just fit nicely. If I squeeze the bottom hose I can see the fluid rise in the radiator (when the cap it off), so I don't think there's any obstructions.
I will invest in the funnel, That'll be my next step. http://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY without checking my local shop.
The radiator was bad, it was leaking tons (smoke coming from the engine). It overheated but not horribly the gauge didn't get too high.
I'll try the funnel and if that doesn't work then we'll see.
I really appreciate the help! If you live in Winnipeg i'll buy you a beer!
Top off the coolant and idle the car with the radiator cap off until you don't see any bubbles floating up. You can rev the car to 3000rpm for about a minute to push any stubborn bubbles out. Also squeeze the radiator hose, sometimes there can be bubbles trapped there.
If you maintain more than a couple of cars, it's nice to have this funnel: https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
You said that you've replaced the radiator at least one year ago...then the thermostat and a few components. Did you do the work yourself, help, or mechanic? The reason I ask is because anytime the cooling system has ANY kind of work done, you will need to fetch your 8mm hex or allen wrench to bleed the system (since probably someone forgot to do it) like in this picture.
Find some youtube videos on how to bleed your cooling system first (youtube search jeep liberty coolant bleeding or something), then come back and let us know. Most people that bleed their system generally just open BUT leave their radiator cap on (so water doesn't spill all over as much) and let it air out as much as possible (preferable once the thermostat is open). You can also buy one of these funnels to attach and add coolant as you're bleeding the system. I would also check the radiator cap to make sure it's within specifications and not worn out (drawing in air due to a leaky radiator cap or any kind of air in the cooling system can and will cause overheating). If you don't know how to do this type of work (which shouldn't take too long or much, find someone that can help).
I wouldn't replace the Jeep just yet. Don't just start replacing expensive parts in the cooling system (just start from smallest and gradually work your way on to the other things).
Every mechanic I know uses one of these or something similar for hard to get at fill ports.
Secondly, I think cross contamination would be a huge issue.
BUT, for $10, i'd try it. Seems awfully cheap for a diaphragm pump. Not even Harbor Freight can sell one that cheap.
If you have to work on it later, these are a life saver if you don't have one already. Make sure to make the fill point is the highest point while you do it. Ramps are all you usually need to do that.
Get one of these.
Also, if I find out that you used a filter wrench to tighten the filter, I will find you and I will beat you with a tire iron.
Very easy, no need for fancy tools but you do need a few basics:
Something like these:
http://www.amazon.com/Blitz-11903-Rhino-Ramp-8000/dp/B000AMMN9O
http://www.amazon.com/Blitz-11838-Oil-Drain-Pan/dp/B000AMGYNA/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1313509663&sr=1-2
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63250-Range-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0002SR4PY/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1313509691&sr=1-2
Before you start, you ought to take a look under the car to make sure the oil filter is easy to access. A PITA oil filter makes the job a lot harder. Read this on how to safely jack your car and look underneath it: http://autorepair.about.com/od/safetyfirst/qt/jack_safety.htm
Assuming everything is A-OK: http://autorepair.about.com/od/regularmaintenance/ss/oil_change.htm
Save the empty oil jugs and pour the used motor oil from the drain pan into the jugs (I like the gallon sized jugs for that reason). Go to Autozone or a simliar location, they'll offer free oil recycling.
The oil change itself usually only takes about 10 minutes, it's usually right next to effortless, and you'll know that some jiffy-lube place didn't rip you off ;)
Oh, and the first couple times, they're serious about 3/4 of a turn on the filter, and only a medium-effort hand tight: too tight and it's going to be impossible to get off later. I don't pre-fill the filter with oil. After you've filled it up, I usually run the car for a minute or two on the jack stands to make sure I don't have any leaks. If everything looks good, back it off the ramps, turn it off and check the level after a few minutes (to let the oil drain down into the sump). If everything looks A-OK, remember to check under the car for leaks wherever you park it for the next few days. The more often you do it, the less you'll have to worry, but occasionally things do go a little awry: I once didn't realize the old filter gasket didn't come off with the old filter, so I had two filter gaskets on. One of them gave way once the temperature and pressure got high, made quite a mess. Also, had a stone or something put a tiny dent in my oil filter can, that eventually turned into a pinhole, that eventually turned into a steady spray. Luckily it was in a vehicle with an oil pressure gauge and I noticed my pressure slowly dropping and was able to drive somewhere I could work on it.
Good luck!
It’s only $20 and it’s needed. Either your local auto parts store will have it or you can buy it here.
https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=58764058049&gclid=CjwKCAjwkenqBRBgEiwA-bZVtoEqNRMEjUMWBL3GbW3-C_nYD-uuJ0ZfgihAUCwsOXsoV5PrcRgX8hoCOrYQAvD_BwE&hvadid=274667037306&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9027658&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2507075615956579707&hvtargid=aud-647006051489%3Akwd-310149416043&hydadcr=25614_9900508&keywords=burp+funnel&qid=1566234999&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMEVTS0dXSFRLT0FXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzA4OTIzMUFTSDUwNVJaSFY1NyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTAxMzU4WlgzTEZZMFEwVDFCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Even if your car comes with a bleeder valve I highly recommend using the method in the video with a burp funnel.
This will help you out. I put a new radiator in my Pilot about a month ago and this thing made burping the system much easier. This was my first time doing radiator work and burping a coolant system; based on advice here and other sources online I decided to buy the lisle funnel.
These are extremely helpful, and work great
Yes you are seeing white at the turn signal lights. When I am using side marker lights, low beams or high beams. Those turn signal lights will be white. But when I turn left, right, and hazard it will be back to amber.
Front turn signal LED lights(7444NA):
https://www.amazon.com/iBrightstar-Newest-Bright-Projector-Replacement/dp/B077P5CDSX/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523552526&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=ibrightstar%2Bx001Cy5ax1&th=1
Front head lights type: 9003/H4/HB2. If you want fog lights it is H8(H11/H8/H9):
https://www.amazon.com/LED-Headlight-Bulb-Conversion-Kit/dp/B075J8VQDX/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1521933924&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=h4+led&psc=1
DO NOT remove the original manufacture Dielectric Grease on the H4 socket. Unless you using some other brand of Dielectric Grease.
Side marker lights(2) has a bunch of names too. Type 194, T10, W5W(These are also the same lights for driver side(1), front passenger side(1), back passenger(1), trunk(1) and license plates lights(2)):
https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-Chipsets-Replacement-Courtesy-License/dp/B071LHP5WP
So, this 10 pack you will be using 8 out of 10. Remember if it doesn't work turn it 180 degree.
https://imgur.com/a/gewfk
Back Reverse lights and back turn signal lights. Type 7443 you will have to get 2 of this. Making it 4 LED bulbs.
Not to worry that the LED is white for turn light. Because the back housing is RED. So White LED + RED = Bright Red. Be warn: We didn't use resistor front and back. So, we are getting hyper flashing.
https://www.amazon.com/iBrightstar-Newest-Projector-Replacement-Reverse/dp/B06XQWPKKX/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523552407&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=ibrightstar%2Bx001mz3ma3&th=1
For the back lights, you will need to use the philip screw driver, the X kind. So, you can take out the housing and install the LEDs. The very top red part are turns on when you use Side markers, low beam and high beam. And those top red lights are LED already. So you don't have to change those. All you need to do is the White one and the bottom Red one for both side. So you need a total of 4 LED type 7443.
You might want to get trim tools. Unless you want to use a t-shirt and a flat head screw driver. But having trim tools can help you with wire management for heads up display and for dash cam wire. I do recommend the trim those thats 13pcs or 14pcs. Because that 1 or 2 extra tool with give you the option to pop those plugs under the front of the car if you are going to replace the fog lights(H8 according to the manual).
Other things we have:
Heads Up Display Model A8:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071418CKC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now you don't have to guess what speed you are on. We really hate that analog speedometer. 2018 and we still using analog. I notice they are out of stocks. Here are list of HID Model A8: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_gnr_aps?rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3AHeads+up+display+A8&keywords=Heads+up+display+A8&ie=UTF8&qid=1525533852
OBD2 Y-Cable:
1 is for the Heads up display, and the other one for those check warning device.
https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-16Pin-Splitter-Extension-Female/dp/B000TMCX72/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1523574579&sr=1-7&keywords=OBD2+y+cable
OBD2 Scanner car diagnostic tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Chip-WIFI-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B075B3CG7S/ref=sr_1_23?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1523574641&sr=1-23&keywords=obd2+check+engine
there are other ones. You might want to do your research before buying one.
Windshield wiper. Front driver side is 28 inch, Front passenger side is 14 inch. Back rear is 14 inch.
We use this brand. Since silicone last longer than rubber: http://www.piaa.com/aerovogue
We replace the whole thing for the front 2: Pick 28inch and 14inch.
Front Passenger side - 14 Inch: https://www.amazon.com/96165-Vogue-Silicone-Wiper-Blade/dp/B00JA390K4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1523575183&sr=1-1&keywords=piaa%2BAero%2BVogue&th=1
Driver side - 28 Inch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JA39676/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I believe this is what we got for the back. It is a refill blade. Be warn. It is hard to installed.
https://www.amazon.com/PIAA-94035-Silicone-Wiper-Refill/dp/B003NCBGYG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1523575369&sr=1-1&keywords=piaa+14+inch+refill
Coolant: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YX9YZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Funnel + Tube: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072N5NZXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Trim Tools 12-PCS: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072HYD91Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also, Scotty Kilmer use PIAA silicone wipers:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AFdUihWPCk
Optional: Dielectric Grease for the bulbs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhl3bLzgq9A
Also for flushing and bleeding the coolant you can use one of those funnel kits to expedite the bleeding process. Just use it combination with the two bleeder valves up front.
Make sure to fill up the reservoir tank before the engine is at operating temp, this will prevent air from getting sucked back into the system as the coolant cools and contracts. The coolant cap in your picture is hooked up right.
I would also recommend taking the res tank out and cleaning it out, the debris in the bottom gets sucked back into the engine as it cools. It's pretty easy to take out, lift the bottom outwards and it should pull up.
Definitely bleed the coolant then. I use one of these to help the bleeding process:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
That lets you overfill the reservoir and get coolant higher than the bleed port so you can bleed the system without having the engine running. You have to suck excess coolant out of the reservoir with a turkey baster after you finish bleeding it, but it's so much better than trying to bleed the system the old way.
Also, remember to have the heater on full when bleeding coolant or you won't get bubbles out of the heater core.
Grab one of These and burp the radiator.
If you can justify having a $30 funnel, this thing can be a real time saver. It lets the air bubble out as you fill the radiator, so there's no need to burp afterwards.
These work well for exact measurements. What burgerrking said is easier though.
This is what I bought
Plews 75-068 Super Funnel - 2 Quart Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G7AJUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_r76oBMvDeqgp5
I just have to be careful going in around limbs and branches but it is 100% easier now.
Other option could be cutting a trap door style hole in the side.
I use a drip tray used by auto mechanics, with foam around the sides and mesh on top to catch solids. WirthCo 40092 Funnel King Drip Tray - Black 22" x 22"x 1.5", Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RXBTI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cjj1Bb64GAYGX
It holds 2 gallons. I suck it up with a wetvac (bucket head from home depot is like $15) every week or so.
I'm pretty sure battery water is distilled. Most super markets have distilled water.
Also most parts stores have pre mixed coolant that has distilled water.
You want coolant in your reservoir, that way when your coolant expands as it heats it will go in there, and when it cools down it will syphon back in. It's also kind of back up coolant, if you get a leak it get topped off by the stuff if the reservoir.
The way I do a coolant flush at work if it really needs it:
I drain the coolant, I remove both heater hoses, I hook a hose the the heater core and flush it one way, then the other, reinstall the heater hoses, I fill it back up with regular water and coolant flush, I run it until it gets hot, drain it, and fill it back up with coolant.
I use one of these when bleeding the cooling system:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
If you want to get really fancy you can vacuum fill, but that's more of a professional tool, really only worth buying if you work on cars a lot. Here's the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G
You hook compressed air to the system and it sucks all the air out, then you close the valve and hook it to a hose that goes to a container full of coolant and it sucks it back in, gets rid of all the air pockets and checks for leaks at the same time, so it's really handy if you're in a hurry trying to make money.
For brake fluid, use this tool
For coolant and trans, you can drain it into a drain pan.
To refill the coolant, you can use this tool
​
did you only bypass the core? so shouldn't turning the heater on still switch open the piping that would normally lead to the heater core?
at any rate I recommend a radiator fill kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE then you just set it up and run the engine until it warms up (heater switch at least turned on a bit to open it) and this allows your coolant to be higher than the rest of the system which forces air out.
Pull it from the top. Pretty straightforward. Plenty of youtube vids to give you some pointers. Make sure to get all the air out of the system when refilling. If you're planning on keeping this or any other Jeep do yourself a favor and get one of these to make the refill process foolproof. Cheap online or can be had for a couple bucks more at Wally World or any parts store.
I use a long neck automotive funnel. Let's me direct the watering all around the substrate and nothing gets on the leaves.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RBWX7HS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AmgYDbSHMFZYD
I'm going to save you a HUGE headache with that engine and bleeding the air out of the system.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
Those engines are a huge pain in the ass to bleed the air out because of that damn bypass pipe. The one thats leaking in the video. The bypass bleeder is going to be your biggest issue.
This funnel will let you keep the highest point above the engine, It will also let the coolant flow up and down without spilling anything. it just makes the job much much easier.
A couple of tips from someone who likes to change their own oil and has made some mistakes along the way:
just don't put the cap on. I only run it for a couple minutes and flush it several times until it runs clear.
I also use one of these. Once the radiator is full, fill it halfway and leave it running for 20-30 squeezing the hoses periodically, then shut it off and let it suck more coolant in as it cools down.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
No, I just used the regular housing gasket.
Oh yeah, I had a tough time bleeding my car for some reason. I ended up using this tool to bleed it. If you have access to an air compressor, this or this cheaper one would work better. With the funnel, there's no BMW adapter, so I had to make one out of an old cap by drilling a hole with step bit.
That will work, but the trick I've found is to fill it from the upper tank with the cap on the radiator removed. Once the radiator is full, throw that cap back on and continue as you recommended. Also, a no-spill funnel can make life a lot easier.
This is the way to do it if you don't have one of the Spill-Free Funnels.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
If you do decide to go through the painstaking punishment of being patient and get one your life will be substantially easier bleeding the system. You don't even have to open the bleeder screw.However, jacking up the front end also makes this method substantially more efficient. Also, squeezing the lower radiator hose can also help.
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-75-068-Super-Funnel-Capacity/dp/B000G7AJUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502670194&sr=8-2&keywords=transmission+funnel
Notes: while you're doing the funnel method, the fluid may start to boil and and quickly rise causing it to over flow. Always keep an eye on this. Immediately turn off your car and wait about 30 mins and continue.
Also, your bleeder valve is just a plastic screw that can easily get stripped with all of the opening and closing. Make sure your screw driver is an exact fit. Also, it helps to support it from the bottom when pushing down to open or close it. Wear gloves.
If you can, raise the front end of the car on ramps or something. It helps the air move.
Burp it better. Borrow a bleed kit, lots of mechanics seem to skip over using them because they seem to think they are unnecessary, but I hear lots of stories about comebacks due to trapped air.
Better to know it's really bled out rather than screw up a new head job on the first hill you run into.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0 something like that
You probably need to jack up the front end too.
Do it yourself it's very easy. And will only cost you a few bucks in tools. The dealer used the method "bottom fill" with vag com and using the plastic fill plug to gauge the temperature and amount put in. Obviously vag com and the dealer tool are expensive. So I offer the "top fill" approach. You buy this funnel
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EH4V0Y/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then buy this service kit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006CN9FNM/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Leave car overnight so new dsg oil is same temp as old oil in the dsg.
Drain it. Then measure how much came out. Will help drain speed if you remove filter and second drain plug.
Put in drain plugs. Then use funnel to hookup to filter hole and put the same amount of what came out back in.
Put new filter on. As well as battery and air intake as those should be removed as well. Battery doesn't have to come out but makes it much easier.
Turn car on. And with brake on go through all the gears about 5 times. Just moving the lever down then back up 3 times. You will have all kinds of lights on ur dash this is normal. Just drive about 20 ft they'll go away. Relearn pinch protection on Windows.
Explained here.
https://youtu.be/Ink6ZpYqPQk
Note they doing bottom fill method.
Here is a video on top fill but he does use vag com and drain plug method which shouldn't be done without vag com.
https://youtu.be/nhE19GCXlvA
Edit: Wanted to mention it might take up to 4 hours your first time but after that it takes about a couple hours and most of it is just waiting for the oil to go down the funnel.
Edit 2: my stealer quoted me $508. An honest indie should be able to do it for around $350.
You can get red coolant from rock auto Aisin brand. It’s about $17/gal once you factor in shipping.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2000,land+cruiser,4.7l+v8,1364688,cooling+system,coolant+/+antifreeze,11393
Get a radiator funnel too: https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=sr_1_2?crid=O3EOMER7NC1J&keywords=radiator+funnel+fill+kit&qid=1562897989&s=gateway&sprefix=radiator+fu%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-2
Be 100% sure there are no bubbles. I also worked on my car in the garage. Flushed twice, filled, overheated, bought burping kit and haven't overheated since.
Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A4EAV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HGbYxb7B0MGKA
A lot of brands don't have a clear section. I have one of these: Amazon, Measure Funnel
https://www.amazon.com/Majic-Multi-Purpose-Funnel-Additives-Lubricants/dp/B00RBWX7HS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=gas+funnel&qid=1565130157&s=automotive&sr=1-4
​
you cold try using a long neck funnel for now.
That funnel that he's talking about is a game changer. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510067876&sr=8-4&keywords=coolant+funnel
When I burped the coolant in my XJ after replacing my radiator and t-stat all I did was fill it up til the radiator was full + some in the funnel itself (it won't spill if you have the correct adapter and cap on the neck), then I started it and watched it semi close for a couple minutes to make sure it didn't suck all the coolant out of the funnel, then I just let it run for like 30 minutes while I cleaned up all the tools and mess from changing the radiator. I would just glance at the funnel once every few minutes or so to make sure it hadn't sucked the funnel dry.
I've bled cooling systems with varying degrees of success without the spill proof funnel, but there almost always ends up being a huge puddle of coolant below the car and/or I never quite get all the air out of the system. That funnel makes it pretty much foolproof.
If you need to bleed the system for some reason (when the car is cold) you can open the top coolant tank near the turbo, then start the engine and fill from there while the car is running with the heater on full, and it will self purge all the air out of the system. When no more bubbles are coming out you can cap it off then shut it down.
I use one of these http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397505519&sr=8-1&keywords=no+spill+funnel and run a full heat cycle (all the way up to temp and then back to cold), but I change or am pulling the radiator frequently for various reasons.
Standard cautions apply: coolant gets very hot and if you don't know what you are doing you can seriously burn yourself. Just trying to add some helpful tips as a starting point if you need them in the future.
Have you bleed the cooling system? Try a Lisle coolant bleeder funnel.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
If your heater doesn't work you have air in the system. Did you loosen the bleeder screw above the water pump in the heater hose to let all the air out? If it doesn't have that screw take the elbow hose loose above the pump(at it's highest point) and fill till coolant comes out. Then run engine letting the thermostat cycle a few times keeping it near full each time. I've found an engine burp funnel to be very handy on that engine. Running the engine low like that can blow a headgasket or crack a head, takes a while but...
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
If you want to add more frying to your cooking, you definitely need a strategy for reusing the oil a few times. I am all for adding homemade fried foods to a varied diet, because of the satiety produced.
I generally use about 2 quarts of oil for deep frying, given the number I am feeding and given that 2 quart containers of oil are standard. Use the oil, retaining the bottle. Get an automotive funnel ( mine is a larger, but I have had it for years and don't remember what it was for originally) line it with a coffee filter and let the cool oil strain back into the original container. Put a rubber band on the oil container each time you re-use that oil, so you can "at a glance" tell whether it is likely to be ideal for the next frying project. For beignets, you may want a fresh bottle. For onions rings, a 4 rubber band bottle may be a perfect way to end that oil's cupboard space. you discard the oil in the bottle when the time comes. You should always smell your oil - and maybe even preheat a little in a pan if you are unsure - to make sure it is still of the quality you want, but the visual hint helps me make my grocery list.
From someone who also does his changes living in an apartment: buy yourself an oil drain like this, it'll save you a lot of hassle and avoid a mess that your neighbours might not like.
Other than that, changing the oil literally consists of warming the car up a little, removing a single bolt from the oil pan underneath your car, and waiting for it to drain. Then you'll ideally replace the gasket that goes on that bolt for a new one, and replace the filter.
For your car(and most cars really), the oil filter will be a thing like these, usually accessible by hand in the engine bay. Don't know about the US, but here in Brazil you can buy oil and filters in any gas station. After you've drained all the oil, reach for the old filter and unscrew it out. Take the new filter and, before you screw it in, rub a bit of new oil on the rubber gasket of the new one. That'll both ensure a better seal, and that you'll be able to remove this filter by hand on the next change. Then screw the new filter on, finger tight is enough. No need to make it too tight, or like I said it'll be hell on the next change. If pulling your old filter out is hard, you'll know the person who did the job before either skipped oiling the gasket, or put it on too tight, or both.
After putting the new filter on, just fill it up to level with new oil of the correct specification. Your owner's manual will have the oil specs, as well as the ammount you'll need. You use the oil dipstick to check the level. Never over or underfill, and don't use a different spec oil, and your car will run without any problems.
Oh, then take that drain filled with old oil to the nearest gas station the next time you go for a gas fill, so they can dispose of the oil properly there.
Or get a bendable funnel
My 2004 WJ I6 4.0L doesn't have a bleeder screw so I couldn't use one to bleed the system. I changed the water pump and I used one of those no-spill funnels to fill with coolant:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487347580&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=no-spill+coolant+funnel
Made it a snap. I squeezed the upper coolant hose to burp out any air as I was running the car and didn't have any issues.
Also procedure - open drain plug at bottom of radiator, use pan to catch coolant, drain, close drain plug. The hoses are held on by little clamps that you usually squeeze with pliers then slide up the hose. Pull them off. Transfer hose clamps to new hoses, install, squeeze hose clamps and slide them to the ends.
Open radiator cap and poor coolant in until it's full. Use this procedure to bleed the system. A "burp kit" like this is what you'd want to be able to get all of the air out of the cooling system, otherwise your car WILL overheat and it can cause all sorts of terrible problems.
Post if you run into any problems.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
buy that.
fill rad and overflow tank with coolant until it shoots out of the bleeder valve. fill funnel with coolant. bring and hold throttle until rpm is around 2000. wait until the funnel gulps down all of the coolant. release the throttle, it'll burp some bubbles out of the funnel, and then use the plug to plug the funnel and empty it into the overflow. put caps back on. pat yourself on the back.
what gasket could air in the system blow? just curious as to what the reasoning behind that thought is.
If you're watering you're leaves too much, maybe try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH4V0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_qiQKub1QYV9M3
Basically what you do is run the engine with one of these on the radiator. It allow the air bubbles to work out the system and keeps the radiator topped off. When its running you rev the engine quickly and it will force air bubbles out as well. When it is running the upper radiator hose should be hot to the touch this means the thermostat is open as it should and the lower on should be cool. The heater hoses will get warm as well.
There is more air trapped in the system. Turn it off, let the car cool down for a few hours with the rad cap off, then squeeze both radiator hoses, turn the car back on with the heater blowing.
This tool is very helpful if you don’t already have one.
OEMTOOLS 87009 No-Spill Coolant Filling Plastic Funnel Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A2CQSU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GsmBDb1PT730X
I like this product or similar bleed funnel
For a casual user instead of Lisle can I save $10 by going with cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0
I know its a little late but when I replaced my radiator everything I read recommending purchasing a Lisle funnel for burping the system. It worked like a charm - especially nice since it was the last step in a long afternoon. Also for the radiator: buy a pack of the black plastic clips for the plastic guards under the car (also on Amazon), no doubt you'll break a few and the Honda dealerships charge like $2 a piece.
Like someone else said below, buy a 1/2" breaker bar. You can ruin your ratchets putting too much torque on them. A 3/8" breaker is often really useful, too. I buy craftsman for a lot of this stuff - its pretty cheap but they will literally just hand you a new tool off the shelf if you come in with a broken one. Also, 4" and 6" extensions are really convenient.
Its not what you were asking but: find a Harbor Freight in your area. They are definitely cheap tools but you're not a pro - sometimes you just need to get the job done. I have an electric impact drill that has saved my ass a few times. I think I bought it for like $20. Plus a set of universal joints for 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" inch. Super cheap and very useful. Don't buy anything from there without a 20% off coupon (you can bring them up on your phone).
The 3400 should have brass air bleed screws at the waterpump and where the upper rad hose meets the engine. Be gentile as the heads will easily snap off. Also run the heat full blast the whole time and make sure the temp stay around half the gauge as these normally run a hair under half. Also they sell what is called a spill free funnel that replaces the rad cap. They are handy and worth the $30 or so they cost.
Edit: this...
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
How about something like this?
https://www.amazon.ca/WirthCo-40092-Funnel-King-Drip/dp/B007RXBTI0/ref=sr_1_38?crid=1NAIRMMZAZ0RP&keywords=oil+drain+pan&qid=1575045718&sprefix=oil+dr%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-38
The thermostat location probably won't move much between model years especially if it's the same engine type. Either way, just watching a couple videos on replacing thermostats on ANY car will teach you enough to find yours - it's probably right at the end of the lower radiator hose.
Did I say "filter" ? Sorry, I meant "funnel". And no, you don't have to have one. You can effectively burp the car without it, the funnel just makes it much easier. . You definitely need to burp it well though, if you don't get all the air out you'll have cooling issues. Sure you can reuse the existing coolant, just be careful to trap it all in clean containers and keep it clean while you work.
But now, let's talk about your car for a bit as your Dad may be jumping to conclusions a bit. First of all, can you really carefully describe what the issues with your inside heat is ? Does air come out, but not the right temp? Or does no air come out ? Does the car take a really long time to warm up ? Or does it overheat ?
FYI the thermostat's job isn't to control a temperature of something like a house thermostat. It's basically an off/off valve that prevents coolant from circulating until the car has warmed up. Once the car has warmed up to operating temperature, the coolant hits a certain temperature, this prompts the thermostat to open up and let the coolant circulate which keeps the car at that temperature. It's not a thermostat like "set the inside air to warm".
There's not one right on the thermostat housing? Like I said the ones on the T/B are higher anyways so you'll get more of a complete bleed. But just slowly pull the one line off. It'll spray all over! It'll take like 3 seconds once the air is all at the top. Also a spill free funnel on the radiator will help tremendously. Lisle sells them pretty cheap. Lisle spill free funnel
Are you buying it pre-mixed? If not, be sure to get a gallon or two of distilled water from the grocery store to mix with the antifreeze. Otherwise, calcium and other minerals in tap water can (over time) increase wear on the engine and seals.
You can then reuse that water jug to store and transport some of the coolant. If you have an old milk jug or maybe some half gallon liquor bottles, that should be enough to hold it all. You could even buy a couple other water jugs and just pour them out. They're only like 88 cents each.
Also, don't forget to burp the air out of the coolant once you've refilled it. I know its extra money but one of the funnels makes the job a lot cleaner and easier. I'd consider buying one if I were you.
They make a funnel just for bleeding the coolant systems on vehicles. Ive always just filled it up, and turned it on till coolant starts flowing and cap the rad. Though it takes a warm up or two to get it back to normal. When i did it this last time with the funnel. It was burped in minutes, and working great. It also makes filling the coolant so much faster o.0
Link to funnel.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
Replace the water pump and metal tube that comes off it. It's cheap and if the coolant is brown then the bearings have almost certainly been damaged.
Also, get one of these. It makes filling and burping so much easier.
replace the radiator cap.
use one of these to bleed your coolant next time.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
Also, these are fucking awesome.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00A6AS6LY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518280301&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=coolant+funnel&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ir3XgVIjL&ref=plSrch
Replace the .ca with you local countries code.
So much easier just to use this tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494689437&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=coolant+bleeder&dpPl=1&dpID=41IHCadLjXL&ref=plSrch
I used to jack the front of the car up to try to raise the radiator, but I bought a kit for filling cooling systems. Actually works pretty good
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491394577&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=spill+proof+funnel&psc=1
Sorry, here's the link: http://www.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-1602-Black-Plastic-Funnel/product-reviews/B000MCZKIS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewopt_srt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=helpful&pageNumber=1
The plastic tank reservoir design on Honda's radiators are notorious for cracking, I had mine go out a few weeks ago on my RSX and I used this funnel to bleeding the cooling system, by far the fastest &easiest/safest way of doing it
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A6AS6LY?cache=f8cbdecf2227ea49f0ef98ab3196eb68&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1414328386&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
Video link on how to use:http://youtu.be/zUpXgAJ1gjU
You could also rent a pressure tester for ~$200 from autozone if you think you might have a leak somewhere
Top the cooling system off with a funnel in the radiator, make sure your heat is on the highest hot setting it'll go to and the blower motor off. Start the car and wait for the thermostat to open, if you have electric fans the fans should start as well. You can tell if the thermostat is open when the upper radiator hose gets hot. Wait for all of the bubbles to work their way out then turn the car off and replace whatever coolant was displaced or lost. Install the radiator cap. A spill free funnel makes this really easy. Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A6AS6LY/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/188-5456271-4723420
To bleed the system just leave the cap off of the radiator and let the bubbles burp out at the engine is running. Make sure the heat is on and the blower motor is on high. They make a special funnel that you can use (Spill Free Funnel). It may be worth it to buy it or it may not. If you don't use it then put a big catch pan underneath the radiator opening.
Once you start to get good heat then you know most of the air is out of the system. Take it for a drive as long as all the gauges look good then let it sit and cool off. Check the coolant afterwards and away you go!
Its possible you may need to rev the engine up to get the bubbles out (like 2k or just quickly put it to wide open throttle and let it come back down).
If you don't see any bubbles coming out and you don't see any leaks on the ground, but you don't have heat you could try just driving it. Driving it may help push some more bubbles out.
0% chance of oil spills = worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016GZV09C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s9fUDbZHSAPSK
I found this via my favorite Subaru YouTuber, MrSubaru1387 https://youtu.be/V54gpat5EVU