(Part 3) Best padlocks & hasps according to redditors
We found 714 Reddit comments discussing the best padlocks & hasps. We ranked the 320 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Don't lock your bike up outside over night.
If you absolutely have to make sure to use what's called an "insurance lock" in the EU. A lock from Medeco or ABUS that's meant for this sort of application will work, such as this or this lock. They can't easily be cut, can not be shimmed at all, and the people who are capable of picking a disc detainer or dual-axis cylinder aren't the type of people who are stealing bikes.
A lock is only as good as the chain it's binding. You want at a minimum what's called "Grade 70" chain, or the "Transport chain" in trucking. You'll want a couple feet of it at a 5/8" square link thickness, the one I linked is round and just an example of the grade you want. It's the alloy used to tie down loads to trucks. It's a high carbon alloy with a yellow zinc coating to make it easily recognizable to state troopers on the highway. When thiefs see that coating they move on to the next bike because they know their small manual bolt cutters are useless unless they're The Hulk... or cool with potentially bleeding out on the pavement. With that said, there are some crazy and crazy strong people out there who can get through even harder alloys than that with big enough bolt cutters. That's why you want to keep your chain short, tight and high. This way it's harder to rest the cutters on the ground and balance/leverage it under your foot. Don't buy your chain from a sporting goods store; more than likely those generic chains are not rated. Never use a cable chain to secure your bike, the ones with the plastic coating. With carbide hacksaw blade I can rip through one of those in seconds.
A chain is only as good as how you have it secured to your bike. Make sure you're wrapping it around the down-tube of your bike. Never the head tube, top tube, seat stays or chain stays. Also wrap it through the front wheel as well. Anyone can easily take your front wheel by undoing the front hub's quick release by hand. If it's held on with a threaded pin anyone can take it off with a simple wrench too. As I said before, short, tight & high.
How you secure your chain is only as good as what you're securing it to. If the post has an open top, like a parking reg sign, the bike can just be lifted over. Make sure what you're tying it to is securely lagged in to the ground and has a closed loop. If it's under a street light that's even better - but not to a street light. Never underestimate a thief's gangster in this town.
ABUS Granit is a serious lock, but is around 130 USD. You have to really, really want it to get through the lock without a key.
This is not a lock you want to cut/grind. It is pickable, but not easy to pick.
Not sure about cuffs but a simple time release lock can be used to secure restraints. there are fancier options but the ice lock is pretty much foolproof and I would be wary of using anything that might fail to unlock for self bondage unless you have a backup escape plan.
Some crooks have ways of cracking the electronic door codes too... They sell little plastic dealies you put over the latch and prevent bolt from opening. Example only: amazon
I agree, this lock was not designed to be secure, but it is advertised as secure.
From the amazon listing:
>★ DURABLE ★- Bear the pull 280 lb. from horizontal or vertical, 3 grades resistance falling. it will not open, It is impossible to destroy by hand, please set the time reasonably.
It's totally feasible. Check this out. The only real difference between your design and this one is that the end cap can be removed when the lock is open, the rings pulled off, and their orientations changed by the user. Just buy one of those locks for some "research".
I highly recommend that you trade out those 3 smaller combo locks for ones that are a bit stronger. Yours appear to be the same size as the ones I used to use and they are easily broken open. All you have to do is firmly grasp the lock and violently jerk on it and it pops right open. I've personally tested it out on both of these locks....
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-643D-Combination-16-inch/dp/B000FTP1Y6/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=07BTB8FCRPVGF37F3EKE
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-627D-Luggage-Combination/dp/B000T4FL7Y/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1V0QTNMGDG9PQH63RKZT
For the tougher luggage style locks you can wrap 550 cord around the lock and use that to get extra power behind your pull.
Just wanted to give you a heads up. Good luck on your trip!
The American lock is going to be the Gary to your Ash for a while. You will need a decent amount of practice before you can tackle it but here's the secrets to opening one for the day you're ready:
If you want a good list of locks to lead you progressively up to the 1100, here's my list:
Now you should be ready to kick that American 1105's ass!
Ah that's awesome people are going to love it. I would make the difficulty low, and the time limit 15-30 minutes, so you can move people in quickly and they can enjoy it, rather then feel frustrated. Also you have to think of how long it takes you to reset all the locks. (maybe ask them to put all used clues in a bucket
My suggestion for a theme would be Zombie Apocalypse, you can find decorations at any party store or on Amazon. The mission can be to save an injured classmate trapped in the other room.
My idea is make the room very dark(maybe no natural lights at all). Give everyone lanterns and/or flashlights. If the lantern has settings turn it on the lowest one. They have to figure out to turn the lantern all the way on to make it easier.
First clue should be a key hidden in a pretty obvious area. That key opens the first lock. Opening the lock gives them a cipher. Hide lamented cards with numbers or letters to a combination. On the lamented cards have dots or symbols that correspond to the cipher. Once they put the cipher and the numbers together they should be able to open their second lock.
The second lock should open a box with a flash light with a black light bulb. They will use the black light to find their next clue. Since your in a school I would recommend using student I.D. cards. Write the combination on the I.D. cards with invisible ink. This will get them through the first door.
Once they are through the first door I would have multiple puzzles to work on, maybe a crossword with your school related answers. Bold five boxes in the crossword, those boxes are the answer to the alphabetical pad lock. (if they are smart they will only find the answers needed to fill the bolded boxes and ignore the rest of the crossword)
That word lock opens a box with a piece of paper that says =12. In invisible writing on the walls are different algebraic formulas like (^ +=13), (^ x #=2), (#+^ =%). (So *=12) (^ =1) (#=2) and (%=3). So the final combination to get out would be written on the door (^ ,#,%) or (1,2,3).
Some side notes. I would only give them one black light and one dry erase board, so unorganized groups will be slowed down. Also it's cheaper.
For the "locked doors" just wrap a bike lock or and rope around the handle and explain no doors will be locked for safety reasons, but to succeed in their mission these locks have to be opened.
Explain they get three free clues. Give them a walkie talkie, so they can call you in.
To add a little more stress to the situation and add to the theme I would bang on the door periodically and make zombies sounds. This will scare some, adding anxiety and confusion, but will also make people laugh and bond.
If you have a group waiting have them come up with team names and aliases.
Create Posters that say things like "I escaped" or "I was the brains of the operation" for people to take group photos after they escape or not.
Good luck and I hope you post photos!
I recommend a quality disk lock with alarm with a lanyard running from the lock to your handle bars. Always use it. Don't get lazy about it. It stops anyone without tools and time or enough people to lift the bike and they have to deal with the alarm the entire time. Other then that a common style motorcycle cover that you always use while parked at home. Don't leave your bike on display and people often won't approach it to start with.
For locks I recommend the one I use. It is quality all around and just needs AAA batteries every few months. Abus Disk Lock
If you have a place to chain it when at home and you really want to make sure it stays were you put it then a security chain and lock through the back tire or swingarm and the disk lock on the front might also be in order.
1-3. [Schlage 999478 High Security Chain with Cinch Ring] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X6E0NE0/) and Abus Granit X-Plus 54 Mini
4.(8-10 Hours at work) Same as 1-3 plus Pro Bike Cover for weather and to keep eyes off it.
https://smile.amazon.com/Master-Lock-5423D-Button-Mount/dp/B00BOSMTD8/ref=sr_1_5?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1504363392&sr=1-5&keywords=key+lock+box
If you're using a cable, then you just need any lock that can't be shimmed, bypassed, or raked. Your system will never be more secure than the easily cut cable.
This Master 570 fits the bill. Small enough to fit in your pocket. Lightweight aluminum. Slightly more secure than a cheap cable. Costs $12 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/MASTERLOCK-570DPF-1-1-Solid-Padlock/dp/B000BD5DFI
Edit: forgot the link.
Or a luggage lock
Edit to add since someone didn't like that answer.
Like these.
We just installed this for a spare key
https://smile.amazon.com/Master-Lock-5423D-Button-Mount/dp/B00BOSMTD8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1497554936&sr=8-9&keywords=key+vault
Remember that fridges all have hardware attachment points for door handles and hinges, and that those screw points can be used. The non side-by-side fridges have provision for reversing the hinges, so there are very sturdy hinge mounting points that are just sitting there unused on the handle edge.
It won't keep out a determined burglar, but some d-ring-hangers as for artwork can often have additional holes drilled that will line up with fridge handle screws -- and can be mounted while leaving the fridge door handles in place. That gives a spot to look a cable or small chain and travel-lock.
The most elegant solution I've seen was at a house where the parent removed and stored the grill from the bottom front of the single-door fridge, and then made a wooden spacer in order to make the bolt for a patio door aux lock line up with the vestigial 3/8 hinge-pin-hole on the bottom edge of the door. The screws to mount the wood block were all in a spot that would be behind the grill when it is replaced (and you can see what's behind the flange, so you know it is safe to drill!), and the lock mounts easily to the wood.
EDIT: A similar thing can be done with mending plates that have a plunger lock pop-riveted to them –– mount the mending plates to the unused hinge-bracket holes at the top and bottom of the fridge, lining up the plunger to fit the hinge-pin hole at the top of the freezer door and bottom of the fridge door. Will require drilling the mending plate with holes that match hole positions on the fridge and lock.
If the existing handles are loop handles and it is a side-by-side, there are adjustable cable locks. If they aren't loop handles, it may be that replacement loop handles area available for a sister-model of the fridge and will bolt into the same holes.
If the vestigial center hinge-bracket holes have a hole that is visible through the slot between the fridge and freezer doors, you can use that hole for a matching-thread-size eye-bolt long enough to put half the eye exposed in front of the door - then a padlock through the eye will stop both fridge and freezer from opening, and the portion of the eye trapped between the two doors will stop the eye from being turned to remove it unless both doors are open.
I have bondage mitts with a similar locking post, and also found that those locks are just slightly too big. I bought these instead, and found that they are small enough to work. They're pretty cheaply made and I wouldn't call them very secure, but they do at least fit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TEERR7W/
I would recommend getting a lot of different models of locks and getting a couple of each. This gives you a couple of different key biddings for each lock in case one is particularly easy or hard and also lets you practice on many models of locks so you don't just get really good at opening one particular model. Here are the models I have and would happily recommend with included links of where I bought mine. Feel free to shop around for better deals or shorter delivery times (specifically allpadlocks.com has great prices but they are NOT fast). If you order 2 of everything on this list it comes out to ~$120. If you're going to trim something I would probably start without the 72/40 and 1105's and add those later once you have built up your skill level (plus the 1100 series has a long lead time right now because of component shortages)
Yellow belt:
Orange Belt:
Green Belt:
Blue Belt:
Hope I'm not too late!
This is my time to shine! Kinky locksmith here, and you've got some pretty expensive recommendations, though I can't speak for their security. I'd personally go with (and do go with) ABUS.
You're most likely after a ABUS 64ti/20. 3mm shackle, aluminum alloy body, and an extremely reputable company. Unfortunately I've found they're not as hard to pick as other Abus locks, but that's due to the size limiting security features.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G7P3734/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_hkwWtb1G6YSBMADS
I'd highly recommend a small battery like this one. I found my infinitely useful while traveling, especially for these 2 main purposes:
Also, for padlocks, make sure you don't buy a full size one, because the shackle will often be too big for lockers. Something like this masterlock worked really well for me. (3/16" shackle width fit everywhere. Any bigger and for some lockers it may not have worked. For your luggage buy the TSA approved tiny little locks that are usually 1/8" width shackles).
Before you leave, scan all of your important documents (passport, itinerary, flight info, etc), and stick it up on dropbox.
At hostels, if you ever need to pay with something by credit card, try to do it on your iPad rather than a hostel computer. It's more annoying, but it will help you avoid keyloggers and getting your CC # stolen. You could try to install ubuntu linux to a USB drive, but that might be a bit too techy for you.
For money, get a Charles Schwab High Yield Checking debit card. This is the most amazing travel card anywhere - ATM fees are reimbursed worldwide, and there's no minimum balance or foreign transaction fees.
I also stumbled upon these neat little gadgets online that could work for me. Unfortunately there is no time to order one, does anyone have an idea of a DIY version of any of them?
For the Abus 64TI/50, I use the Peterson .040 pry bar and Peterson hook 1 in .018. Once you've picked it a few times and know the binding order, the lock becomes pretty easy to pick consistently.
The Master Lock 570 is a challenging lock due to the dead core. I recommend working your way up to this lock. The Master Lock 140, Brinks 40mm (non-brass), and Abus 55/40. For these locks I use Sparrows' BOK tension and Peterson hook 1 in .025.
Once you've got these down, you can step up to the Paclock 90A, Master Lock 410, and American 1100. For these locks I'll use the previously mentioned Peterson hook 1 in .018, Peterson hook 7 in .018, the previously mentioned Peterson .040 pry bar, and the Peterson .050 pry bar.
Good luck!
I have one of the Titalium locks, and they're pretty nifty, but I think they might be counterproductive for hostels. As soon as your lock calls attention to itself, you've lost the biggest battle. Those locks are harder to pick, but even a weaker lock will already be stronger than the brackets and/or hinges in your average hostel locker.
I'd recommend this. It has the same shackle diameter as the Titalium 64TI/30, but it's far less conspicuous. It also doesn't have a TSA key bypass like most luggage-style locks.
How does OP's Brinks compare to the one on the list?
Brinks 162-40001 1-9/16-Inch 40mm Laminated Steel Padlock, 1-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPECW6/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_g.eJybXDVF1K4
I have the 140 on there because it is easily defeated. It can be raked and zipped open easily. It is a bit difficult to SPP but a good introduction.
Is this Brinks different enough from the one on this list? I do love the brinks because they have excellent feedback and a non-threatening spool. The binding order to mine is 1-2-3-4 with the spool in 4.
It is very light, made from a aluminum alloy:
https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-64TI-20-Titalium-Different/dp/B00G7P3734
She can wear it for a couple days without problem, but she need to wear panties to keep it from moving while she walks. The main problem is to keep the mechanism of the padlock clean and working, I have been using some vegetable oil on the padlock before putting it back.
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I would suggest Abus padlocks since they’re harder to defeat than most padlocks and if you’re flying one of these.
How about these they each have two standard pins and two security pins. These are actually pretty challenging since you must set both standard pins before you get a false set. I personally have a master no 140 and the first time I tried to pick it to took me 20 mins, and that was when I gave up and randomly started pushing pins. Using the master 140 really helped me to develop the subtle clicks when setting the standard pins. Even though I've had that lock for a couple of months and have picked it many times, every now and then it'll tell me to go fuck myself and refuse to be picked, so I guess you can say I'm still learning from it haha. For even more of a challenge look up master no 150.
Also watch this video it really helped me when I was first starting out.
that doesn't seem right.
https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-64TI-50-KD-Titalium/dp/B00G7P3BQM/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F3YQATJK4528FBQBQE30
64ti/50 - 2 inch body 5/16 shackle 5 pin
https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-64TI-40-3-PACK-Titalium/dp/B00G7P3A2W/ref=pd_sim_60_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F3YQATJK4528FBQBQE30
64TI/40 - 1.5 inch body 1/4 shackle 5 pins
https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-64TI-30-2-PACK-Titalium/dp/B00G7P382E/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X424QKR4ZJBS6G9JRCPT
64TI/30 1.25 body 3/16 shackle 4 pins
only thing different is second number. The second number seems to deal with both the body and the shackle. And even though the first number is the same for all 3, the first two has 5 pins and the last one has 4 pins. Nothing on the types of pin in description
Awesome job!
Not to dimish the feeling of success at all, because I distinctly remember the feeling of popping that first lock but-- I would recommend trying some more advanced locks soon. The Master 3 can literally be picked with a zip tie. While it can be a good learning tool, it's probably more beneficial to move to something like this
I would definitely get a lock for your gates. My neighborhood isn't the best, and I have a 4 digit combination lock (much more secure than a round combination lock), along with a fake camera. It looks super real though, and that has stopped packages being stolen from my doorstep (lol). Most likely a thief won't risk being caught on tape. I'd try that first and see if anything else goes missing.
for gym lockers
About $75 on Amazon.
Amazon says $72
I believe it's this set I got and was happy with.
Be sure, if you're using a set of locks (rather than just one), to get them keyed alike, as in this case. There's nothing more frustrating than dealing with four or more different locks securing whatever items on a person, all of which require a different key (which must therefore be accordingly labeled so as to differentiate).
I've just used cheap indoor locks and replaced them after 3-4 years when they get hard to use.
Got about 3 years out of this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ONVJ2G/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q12DPP0D751GS1XX2J0P
Well, this turned out longer than I though. Sorry about the wall of text.
Hey man, congrats on enrolling. Once you start going and notice how good you feel it will be hard NOT to go. The hardest part is forming the habit. Also, a lot of people overdue it when they first start and end up extremely sore and in turn - don't go back. So take it easy at first and ease your body into it.
Since I’m bored at work I’m just going to ramble along here about what I use.
For attire I wear Adidas tank tops and Champion basketball shorts – both I got off Amazon.
If you’re not comfortable in a tank top then a normal shirt will do. I just find having sleeves to be annoying when working my upper body – but that’s just preference.
I'd suggest a good pair of cross training shoes (not running shoes). I linked the Reebok crossfit shoes as I definitely recommend them. They are super light, sturdy, and fantastic for working out. I've had the same pair for 6 years and they just won't quit.
I'd also suggest and iPod or other small Mp3 device. Most people use headphones and I must say I can't workout without it. Just walk in, crank up the tunes, and do your thing. Most people do the same and it really helps you focus and tune out all that's going on around you.
I wear gloves, but not everyone does. During heavier lifting sessions my hands get torn up, to prevent it I wear gloves. Not mandatory, but something that may interest you.
Water bottle – make sure you bring a big water bottle. I use this one. But anything will do as long as it’s big enough. Drinking water is extremely important.
Towel, most gyms sell hand towels. It’s good etiquette to use, especially if you sweat a lot.
Gym bag - I use this one. It's small, holds my shoes, workout clothes, etc. and the water bottle I linked above fits perfectly in the mesh compartment. This is obviously optional but I found it extremely beneficial to have.
Lock – I use this one to lock my car keys/phone up in one of the gym lockers when I get there. Not necessary but you will need to carry your keys/phone/etc during your workout.
Routines (routines vary indefinitely) depending on your goals, preferences, etc. I’ll give you my schedule so you at least have an idea, but please know there are virtually endless workouts you can do.
I focus on working my way up the body throughout the week. I generally workout 3 days per week for about an hour and a half. Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday are the days I go but again this is totally my schedule. I go Monday and Tuesday because I’m rested from the weekend, break Wendesday to rest, and then finish up Thursday and give my body a rest Friday – Monday. Please keep in mind this is my schedule and yours can be anything you want it to be.
When I get to the gym I do 5-10 minutes on the elliptical, rower, or stairs to warm up and break a sweat. After warming up I stretch out (important to deep stretch after your body is warm, not before it) – this is a full body stretch, not just the body parts I’m working out that day.
After about 10-15mins of stretching I get into my workout. Again, focus on warming up the muscle group before you start to add any type of heavier weight.
I work the following muscle groups on the following days:
Monday – Legs/Core (3-4 exercises per muscle group)
Tuesday – Chest/Back (3-4 exercises per muscle group)
Thursday – Arms/Shoulders (3-4 exercises per muscle group)
After the workout – depending on my current goals, I’ll do some Cardio (usually 10-30 minutes or so). I rotate between the elliptical, bike, stair master, and sauna.
If I can suggest one thing over all else it’s to familiarize yourself with the exercises for each of the main muscle groups and how to do them correctly – emphasis on correctly. You can go to google and type in “Back workout” and you’ll find endless back workouts. Pick out 3-4 exercises for each muscle group, watch some videos on Youtube, and get an idea of how to do it.
To give you a starting point, 3 exercises per muscle group and do 3 sets of 10-15 reps per after your warmup set.
Every day I see people in the gym trying to lift more weight then they can do correctly, and in turn their form is terrible. Bad form is a fast-track to injury. Focus on doing the exercise correctly and then up the weight from there.
One thing to keep in mind is the body will adapt to your routines if you don’t adjust them. There are tons of workouts for each muscle group. Spend some time up front educating yourself about the exercises and build a few different routines. Don’t be afraid to bring a note pad with your routing written down – people do it all the time. It’s actually a good way to keep yourself accountable. You can record the weight you lifted, the date, etc. It’s a good way to see progress.
I’m sure I missed a lot but hopefully this helps. Try not to be overwhelmed. Take it slow and just know the gym is a really positive environment.
Cheers
Edit: Formatting and spelling
This one.
some of those are stupid expensive outside the US though, brinks 40mm in USA $7 on amazon uk £40 ($50)
You could get the sparrows progressive lock set shipped from canada for about the same.
edit: I think OP's USA based but it might help others to know
I've flown with a good size padlock several times.
ABUS 64TI/50 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G7P3BQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_smmzDbFJSWY70
Also usually bring a couple good quality carabiners (I like the locking ones).
You could do a 12mm Pegaway chain with Stanley lock. I wouldn't travel with that around your bikes but looped through their frames it should stop 95% of thieves.
I have one of these. I wrap it around the kayak and around the factory rack. I guess somebody could slip the kayak out lengthwise, but it would be awkward and time-consuming.
Aluminum isn't a good material for security. A corrosive area , LOTO yes... but you can cut it with a jr. Hack saw. If you want something that is the best bang for your buck then you want something like this. It has a full 6 pin KIK cylinder and anti drill pins and a spinning plate. Is does have a pretty thick shackle though.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-2-5-Inch-Hardened-Security/dp/B001V5IYSS?th=1&psc=1
This is what I would put on my locker. if Walmart was out of masterlocks.
Master Lock 140Q fits Pelican cases great and give you four locks which share the same key.
Mine were $30 each, the heavy duty real estate agent ones.
These:
https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-AccessPoint-001166-Portable-Titanium/dp/B000CEMQLK/ref=sr_1_10?
For my truck (not a gladiator... yet) I invested in some relatively heavy duty cargo boxes and cable locks. Here is one example on amazon of the boxes (they were relatively cheap, solid, and waterproof). Here is an example of the cable locks. Obviously this isn't gladiator-specific, but it's been a great solution for us. It's not as secure as say locking your truck (or locking a hard tonneau cover), but it would take some effort and tools to get in. It's also a bit more effort compared to just throwing stuff in a capper or the back of an SUV, but not that bad, especially if it's only for trips etc. Not sure if this would be an option for you or not, but we've been happy with the setup. We load a ton of suitcases, travel gear, etc, into the boxes and then stack them up in the bed and it's worked for us.
You can also get them like this where the loop goes securely over the doorknob. That way it's not permanently installed anywhere and your landlord has nothing to say about it.
I see them for 10 bucks on amazon.com but they are 25-40 on amazon.ca there are quite a few abus locks for less than 15 bucks and I was wondering if anything like that would have similar features. Again I just don't want someone popping open the lock with a soda can.
Edit: for example, how do these locks compare to the 1170?
ABUS 64TI/30 2-PACK C KA Titalium Aluminum Alloy Keyed Alike Padlock Set of 2, 1-1/4-Inch with 3/16-Inch Diameter Nano Protect Steel Shackle https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00G7P382E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kUL1BbDCP2FTQ
Everyone seems to have answered your questions to some degree. I'd like to make a further suggestion.
You van get something like THIS and mount it somewhere secure outside. This way you don't need to worry if you do forget your keys and the keypad is nonfunctioning.
First and foremost no chain is cut proof nor is any lock un-pickable. With that being said what you're really shooting for is simply deterrence. Consider where you'll be parking it a majority of the time, and any place you consider to travel to. Ideally, at any location you'd have a secure anchor point. Any such place that'll allow you to loop a chain around or through will work.
When I have it parked outside during the day I use this particular chain to secure it around a fire escape. I use the smaller version to travel with if I know I have a small enough anchor point at my destination. As others have said I'll occasionally simply wrap it through my rear tire in a pinch but it's really a horrible idea. Two people can easily throw it right in the back of a truck if you've "locked" it up this way.
I like those "cinch" type chains as you get a lot more usable length out of them. I've drilled a ~2.xx" hole in my rear plastic and installed a grommet to pass the chain through, locking my frame. (See SpoonKiller's post here to see it in detail.)
As far as locks go there's a million options to choose from. I'm not really that well versed on them so I don't think I'm the best resource. I'd simply look for a lock with a shielded and hardened shackle and some common security features implemented in the core. Here's a great article on the subject. Take a look at #4 on page 4 where it discusses different pins and their effects on pick attempts if you want greater detail.
I've heard multiple people speak to the effectiveness of the stock steering column lock so I always lock that as well. I also used a cover when I had it parked outside which is another low-cost/effective deterrent.
Here is the link to the lock on amazon!
http://www.amazon.com/Abus-55mm-Rock-Steel-Padlock/dp/B005VOGAXQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1420682403&sr=8-7&keywords=abus+rock
Ah ok. That changes things, but it also brings up other possible issues like power going out. Back when I was looking at locks, I thought about putting a lock box like this hidden somewhere in case my smart lock ever died and putting a key in it. That way, there is no possible way to get locked out.
Looks like there is slight DIY option called "electric strike". You could look into that. Not sure how it'd handle changing access codes for new guests though. Have you read about what other AirBnB hosts do? There's got to be a commonly used solution
Maybe something like these?
This is silly. Many locks are very hard to defeat. Unless you carry a grinder around and are willing to make a ton of noise in public. Try cutting these with bolt cutters... or you could try and pick the lock... if you are one of the half dozen people in the world who might be able to pull that off. Use those and the criminals will just move on to the next bike.
https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-999478-Security-Chain-Cinch/dp/B00X6E0NE0/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504739517&sr=1-5&keywords=security+chain
https://www.amazon.com/Keyed-Padlock-Different-2-15-64/dp/B01LX6SFE5/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504739615&sr=8-1&keywords=abloy+padlock
https://www.amazon.com/Keyed-Padlock-Different-2-15-64/dp/B01LX6SFE5/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504739615&sr=8-1&keywords=abloy+padlock
If you have a weapon keep it on you/get a kitchen knife. Search your house thoroughly...check all cabinets, closets, crawl spaces. If you still don't feel comfortable after that call the non emergency number for your local police and ask them to do a walk through because of a suspected break in. There is a cool tool that you can get for the door if it has a dead bolt...I've actually been looking at getting one myself. (I'll Post the link when I get to a computer). Otherwise there are a ton of other safety brackets and such to better secure the door and make sure this doesn't happen again.
This thing! ://www.amazon.com/Super-Grip-Lock-by-EasyComforts/dp/B008YGQSOO