Like the adafruit ones? Or like these? http://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-Industries-1150-Peristaltic-Liquid/dp/B00HIX2PEG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419123489&sr=8-1&keywords=peristaltic+prime

If you plan on converting more than 3 pens, it's more economical to buy your own stuff.

100 o-rings, $2: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN0V6A?redirect=true&ref_=ya_st_dp_summary

Silicone grease, 1/2 oz, $3.49: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DZFUNY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

For reference, Goulet pens sells 4 o-rings for $1 and 1/8 oz silicone grease for $2.95 http://www.gouletpens.com/goulet-silicone-grease/p/GPC-SiliconeGrease?pageNumber=7

As noidios said the kegs are going to cost more unless you get a good deal from someone. My local store has the pin locks for $65 each.

Co2 tank sounds about right. You may need to have it filled though depending on how the store sells them. I would consider a bigger tank or a spare as you don't want to run out of Co2. 1 5lb can dispense roughly 6-8 kegs and that is if you don't have a leak. Some kegs can leek. Seeing as how they are all connected and will equalize in pressure one leak going unnoticed for a night can cost you the tank and the pressure in all your attached kegs.

Manifolds is dead on on price.

50ft of 5/16 at $50. maybe shop around on that one. If you know your PSI you can check out This I wouldn't think you would exceed 50 PSI under normal conditions.

Hose Clamps since you are going to be going off of the OD it should work as the OD of the smalles tube is 5/16. Figure you will need 4 for each keg (2 on each end of the line) plus 2 for the line going from the manifold to the tank should be about 34 (assuming 8 kegs.) so 4 orders comes to $$20

3/16 for beer line. I would look at this 100ft A bit more cost effective. Others can chime in on them if I linked a bad product.

Keg Lube save a couple bucks for 4 oz vs the normal 1 oz. Easier to dispense and keep clean imo.

Places where I would spend a little more:

Shanks are up to you but I would go the extra stop for stainless if you can just so you don't have to worry about chrome flaking off a few years from now.

Handles - for the price I take it you are looking at the cheap ones from northern brewer? Can't speak for them for myself but I think they will work. worst comes to worse you replace them a year later.

Edit: Also the kit you listed 1 4 way manifold (say $50 for rounding), 4 bev locks, 4 gas locks (6.50 ea so $52) the faucests look like the cheap chrome ones from amazon $31 ea ($124), 3 feet of gas line with 2 clamps and a faucet wrench aren't worth much. $250 for the kit they are selling for $382 unless I missed something. + dual reg at say $98 but $50 for the regulator. so about $280 in parts that they are charging you $382 for. unless I missed something else

Oh grow thou art sick.

Dude you could get a ght adapter and a blumat pressure reducer and have automated drip irrigation out of that showerhead.

The biggest contributor to the amount of foam is the flow rate out of the tap. To reduce the foam, reduce the flow rate. You're using 11 PSI with a 5 ft line, which sounds like it would pour really fast.

Option 1: Lower pressure for serving

Bleed pressure from keg and set regulator to 2-5 PSI when serving. Re-pressurize when not serving so the beer doesn't go flat.

Pros: No extra equipment required.

Cons: Incredibly wasteful in terms of CO2. Using this method, I blasted through roughly a third of a 5# tank dispensing just one keg.

Option 2: Adjust beer line length

Make the line length longer according to the style of beer, to compensate for high pressure in the keg. This has to do with fluid dynamics. There is info available on this if you search; I remember seeing posts on this a few weeks ago.

Pros: simple, effective, and inexpensive

Cons: Requires a lot of cutting and re-clamping of beer lines for each different style of beer; no way of doing fine tuning of flow rate for more or less head; requires keeping a bigger inventory of tubing for different styles.

Option 3: Flow control

Put something in your draft system that allows you to adjust the flow rate without attaching/reattaching anything.

Pros: easy to control, less hassle/mess. Just turn a dial and get the flow rate exactly what you want it to be, to perform on-the-spot adjustments for the perfect pour.

Cons: more expensive, although I've seen plastic inline flow controllers like this $2.50 USD one

I have the Perlick 650SS tap on my kegerator and it works like a charm. If you're using a picnic tap or want to use a tap without built-in flow control, and you want something nice, you can get an inline flow control compensator like the one made by CM Becker, or (less expensive but still solid) make one using a stainless steel NPT ball valve and two hose barbs (clamps and plumber's tape not included).

Edit: info/links

LOL :) That list is shorter ...

You'll need a pressure gauge, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087UCI8C/ has a relatively low maximum for high sensitivity (easy to see if there's a drop)

You'll need a valve you can hook a hand pump on to (like what you'd use to pump up a bike tire -- I don't recommend an electric pump because of the low pressure you need). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PLI4BA/ is in the same threading as the gauge.

You'll need a tee to connect these things to -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQUTBS/

Finally, connecting the tee to your rig. I take a scrap of tubing, put a fitting on one end, and slip the other over: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFNKBO/ (check for your tube's inside diameter!).

ball valve with a 45* angle on it so the cans dump and also an adapter to fit the 1/4" NPT of the T and the 1/4" flare thread from the ball valve.

Can tapper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XT7NY/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(remove the schrader valve on the side you use and also the ball in the inside as well.)

Ball valves: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014JC9HI/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(I had to file down the end of the ballvalve where the adapter fits on because at first it was only held on by one thread. Making the ball valve shorter allowed it to fit inside the adapter deeper and make contact with more threads)

Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056ODEP8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(take a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the unnecessary internals that would reduce the flow rate.)

I got the T splitter from ebay. I found one with male 1/4" NPT on the bottom and female 1/4" NPT on each side.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/EAI-Silicone-Ring-Assortment-Sizes/dp/B07G7W33H2&ved=2ahUKEwiI2-iLgLHkAhVGnlkKHbvYDuQQFjALegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw2uSOm0bKOPqbUIq32uVmoI

You may want to consider silicone tubing, PVC and it's additives can be pretty nasty and I don't think they like heat much.

I believe this is your problem. You need the correct beer line. It should be 3/16 food safe tubing with thick walls. You can get 50ft of it for cheap off amazon. In order for your system to be balanced you need the right resistance. This is roughly 8-12 feet of line per keg. Keep the co2 tank at 8-12 psi (good rule of thumb is 1psi per foot of line). Temperature is still a factor with foam so play with your pressures till you get everything right for your system.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CPMS5MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_75pnDbYCF1Q5B

O-rings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G7W33H2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For a keeper I used the end of a Dr. Brown's baby bottle nipple and filled it with hot glue so it would hold its shape. Saw a post the other day by someone who had fashioned their own keeper but used micropore tape on it.

Took the hot glue mold out of the nipple and wrapped it in tape and it holds *much* better. With the silicone nipple I could have my rings on all day and be fine. But with the tape it holds so firmly that I have to remove my rings midway through the day as the tension (after pulling the inner skin out as much as possible around the keeper) is so high that it gets uncomfortable.

What I think you're looking for is a bulkhead fitting like this, usually installed so the threaded part is facing the inside but you could mount it the other way and get a cap that screws onto it.

You could also use something like this a cable gland but grab a closed end sealing nut to make it into a cap.

Shower sprays can work, but you'll occasionally run into issues like this where it doesn't completely wash out.

You should look into getting a small pressure washer, and a garden hose adapter for your shower arm. When I converted a spare bathroom to my washout station, I got one of these, and one of these, and hooked up my pressure washer to it, while still being able to attach the shower head.

I have been using the Fieldpiece probes connected with the measure quick app. The range on the FP probes is about 200 ft. I hear the gen 2 Testo probes have much better range as well. The app will give you complete diagnostic of the system and a really nice PDF printout of the job when you're done. A lot of customers love when you can say "this is what I see your system doing" and then you can show them live readings and how far off target their system.

As far as charging get one of these. https://www.trutechtools.com/CTEE14

Get some hoses with ball valves for charging and you're good to go.

I also use a pair of these for systems that don't have much space by the ports.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JC9HI/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_XgcvDbAAFS20P

​

This is how another guys does it for a visual.

https://youtu.be/TrW7xpGMdFo

What you want is a Bulkhead Fitting. It makes a hole on a flat surface and allows you to attach PVC parts to it. I would say you add this right under the lip of the top pond and put ~1' length of PVC pipe on it. The water will fill to the pipe then drain out into the pond below. The only real consideration is the strength of the plastic and the length of the pipe. You wouldn't want to crack the pond.

I'll go in order from the CO2 tank down the line:

• 10lb Aluminum tank, bought at local welding/gas supply
  
  
• This 2-stage CO2 Regulator
  
  
• Replaced the output fitting with one of these
  
  
• Then I have a smaller regulator reduce the line pressure down to a stable 15 psi - I find that the more regs, the better for stable pressure.
  
  
• That leads to two solenoids, one for each tank. You can buy the cheapish milwakee one, or anything that uses 1/4" npt fittings if you can find a better deal.
  
  
• After each solenoid I have a T-junction to a gas pressure sensor reading back to my controller, and the other outlet to the final regulator. You can use the one above, or one of these
  
  
• No need for a needle valve at this point. Go to your bubble counter and then up to your tank.
  
  
• On my big tank I am using a reactor instead of the normal ceramic diffuser I have on the small one.

I ferment in 10 gallon cornies and I just built myself a spunding valve to use as a test. Wasn't that hard the main bit is the valve itself, which I got off Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GDY3CU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FYI58S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQUTBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then some fiddly bits to go from the Tee to the QD for the keg.

Prefer silicone tubing over vinyl (aka PVC). A lot of the vinyl tubing found in hardware stores contains lead and isn't food-grade.

I bought this tubing for a gravity feed system with my Sawyer Squeeze, and am quite happy with it: Amazon Link

Be sure you get the correct inner diameter, the fittings for my Sawyer are 1/4 inch, but I know some hydration systems use 3/8.

Here is the Amazon link I used.

Sound cool.

A few observations, if you don't mind me butting in.... Sounds like a really good application for a small peristaltic pump. If you are using some other type of pump, like an impeller pump, it might be higher flow than you need. A peristaltic pump and a relay would probably work.

here's one for low flow apps that is $23. There are tons on amazon and ebay:

http://www.amazon.com/ZJchao-Peristaltic-Liquid-Pump-Electronics/dp/B00HIX2PEG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452885463&sr=8-1&keywords=Peristaltic+Pump


I can appreciate your reluctance to use discrete semiconductors. (You are already using integrated semiconductors, of course.) It's a little trickier to make your own DC drivers out of discrete parts, but fortunately, there are many alternatives to that.

For one, you can use what's called an "H-bridge", which does both the direction changing and the driving of a DC load, and it's probably as easy to use as an SSR. You need one lead to "steer" and one lead to "drive". Another advantage of this is that you can use pulse width modulation, which preserves torque at low speeds and allows control over the speed of the pump. It also allows almost instant braking of the motor. When you turn that sucker off, it stops.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H_bridge

here is a data sheet for one from Mouser Electronics:

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/405/lmd18200-440916.pdf


They are $15 in quantity 1.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/LMD18200T-NOPB/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvu8NZDyZ4K0cK2%252bZITVZKj

No harder to use than an SSR, I think. (I chose this one instead of 100 other because of its packaging. It's a TO-220 package and you can cram it into a PCB board without having to deal with surface mounting. (Heat sink it, though.)

For what you want to do using relays and slower pumps is the simplest, and using h-bridge and any pump is the most flexible.

If you want to do other things downstream of this, getting familiar with H-bridges is a good learning experience and will pay off more.

[edit: package]

After using the rubber bands and e-cig mouthpiece.. I realized I had forgotten I had 10ft of silicone tubing I bought for my SSV stashed away in the closet...

I cut off a 4inch piece and.... PERFECT FIT!

Silicone Tubing - 10 Foot Piece (High Temp Hose - 500F) (3/8" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. x 10 Foot) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYAFIRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_UXZjnXPKcwoeT

It says viton and buna n in the title, so which one is it? They aren't the same thing. Here are the ones I got.

Here.

As u/agoomba said you can just cut off and splice but if you don’t want to as u/viruswithshoes said it is a Phoenix connector https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GWF65WY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524396465&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=phoenix+connector+2+pin&dpPl=1&dpID=41o6TeK93bL&ref=plSrch

These are the ones I bought.

I just bought these and they're threaded on both sides so that what you linked to (or these which I also bought) should fit. I put them on some 5gal buckets and the seal is working great. Pretty happy with the setup so far :)

bev line: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CPMS5MQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this is the first time they've been used, so they've only had water pushed through them.

With the first keg that I tossed, the entire keg stunk when I opened it. To me, this ruled out the lines contaminating the water. This second one smelled fine when I lidded it, so I gassed it up and instantly drew some out just to fully flush the line, and it stunk. I then ran two full pitchers through it, and they both stunk as well. Switched lines, pulled half a glass, still stunk. Re-opened the keg, no smell/taste in a ladle full of it.

3/8" i.d. 1/2" o.d.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYAFIRI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_LWTVDbGWVJXF8

Here are the materials I used if anyone is interested.

Pen: http://www.amazon.com/Nemosine-Singularity-Fountain-Demonstrator-NEM-SIN-01-EF/dp/B008LXW6XW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462826541&sr=8-1&keywords=nemosine

O-Rings: http://www.amazon.com/010-Buna-N-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FN0V6A?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

Silicone Grease: http://www.amazon.com/Danco-88693-Silicone-Grease/dp/B000DZFUPC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages01

Here's my nice stainless 1/2" setup. I had a brass 3/8" setup but it's slow and I was paranoid of lead leaching out of it.

Spigot + bulkhead

1/2" barb

Bazooka screen

Silicone tubing

You might forego the bazooka screen and just use a brew bag like https://www.brewinabag.com/. Or perhaps a false bottom if you have some extra cash to burn. The 12" bazooka screens don't fit, so you have to be a little careful with stuck sparges if you get this 6".

BTW I'm using the 10 gallon cylindrical cooler, not the rectangular kind.

Hey friend. you're on the right track with your idea to drill a hole and plumb it to a larger tank. Be careful when you choose the spot to drill. You don't want to drill in to a very round side, as that will be harder to make watertight. i would recommend trying to find a nice flat spot, just below the max fill of that unit's tank, and then drilling a hole for a bulkhead fitting(so that its watertight) and then just attach a hose to the drain end of the fitting and you can just set the other end of the hose in to a 5 gallon bucket below the unit or something.


a 1/2 bulkhead fitting is less than 5$ on amazon(also might not hurt to look around for a smaller sized one of these, as a 1 1/2" hole may be kind of big for this small tank) i only looked around for a second.
https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Standard-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B0002Z7U1K/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=bulkhead+drain+with+gasket&qid=1565284477&s=gateway&sr=8-15


If you go with this route, i would get a step bit (drill bit for drilling a precise hole by gradually widening it)
https://www.amazon.com/Knoweasy-Sizes-Titanium-Drill-Drilling/dp/B07NKXLTCB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=step+bit&qid=1565284634&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMEU0WExMM0Y1NUNZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDQzOTM5RjNOQkZRRFgzUVFXJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODExNDgyUEtUR1lBS1NJNzM4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


then you would just need a female 1/2 thread to 1/4" barbed fitting and some 1/4 tubing to run to the bucket. I have similar setups to this for top-off tanks in my hydro systems. If you need any help figuring it out and sourcing parts, just shoot me a message!


Best of luck!!

> stainless steel 316 Tee

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LSSLE0/ref=biss_dp_t_asn -----

>stainless steel 316 nipple 1/4 ----------
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y18C56/ref=pd_luc_rh_bxgy_01_02_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ----

>ball vales
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Mini-Ball-Valve/dp/B006VE3BF0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QATKNJ8JPYS71CX5ZPG

>can tap
http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417119173&sr=8-2&keywords=can+tapper

I LOVE my Mash & Boil, especially after I upgraded it. Here are the things I bought for it to do my upgrade. It’s a good amount of money up front but worth it.



CHUGGER PUMP CPSS-CI-1 Stainless Steel 115 Volt Center Home Brewing System Beer Pump, 55” Cord WITH Plug, Inlet 3/4” x Outlet 1/2” MPT, ETL-Certified, USFDA Food Compliant Materials https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HERFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vECLBbD3PTY36


HFS(R) Homebrew Beer Wort Chiller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y41HCFP?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


White SiliconeTubing, 1/2"ID, 3/4"OD, 1/8"Wall, 10' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWU38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VECLBb3CM7H5Q


MRbrew Quick Disconnect 304 Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TCQF6Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


CONCORD 304 Stainless Steel Quick... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079J5X3XD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Anderson Metals Brass Garden Hose... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMU7U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


LOKMAN Hose Clamp, 20 Pack Stainless Steel Adjustable 13-19mm Range Worm Gear Hose Clamp, Water Pipe Clamp for for Plumbing, Automotive and Mechanical Applications https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077R2PNVT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yHCLBbB7TH7W8


Dernord Full Port Ball Valve Stainless Steel 304 Heavy Duty for Water, Oil, and Gas with Blue Locking Handles (1/2" NPT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076D7WM9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wKCLBbEH1QPR0


HomeBrewStuff Stainless Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UI995XG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

ZAOJIAO Home Brewing and Winemaking Silicone Tubing, 10mm(3/8 inch) ID x 14mm OD, 10 ft, High Temp Food Grade Tube, Flexible Hose Pipe with Stainless Worm Gear Hose Clamps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SPBFGTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ARKsDb5TXHD1B

Thanks for the reply. i have gone to almost every hardware store looking for a tee like that. I might have to suck it up and order online. If I threaded the inner diameter of the flange would a threaded male pvc adapter work? like http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008HQ5N88/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1383141636&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Then why aren't you just using a bulkhead fitting? Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Standard-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B0002Z7U1K/ref=lp_700755011_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1565222743&sr=1-6

with a threaded plug should be reasonably waterproof.

try a few of these
http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Brand-B20HS-Stainless-Clamp/dp/B007Q4YD38/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1410393896&sr=8-7&keywords=hose+clamp they are 4 to 8 dollars (depending on the size) each but they are reusable so when you get done with them you can unscrew them and use them on a later project

or just go to http://www.amazonsupply.com/ and search for pipe/tube/cylindrical clamp and see what amazon has to offer

This is what I have, it connects to the top of the steel drip tip and also acts as a male 14 mm piece if you just stuff the hose into the 14 mm female part of your rig https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07SPBFGTS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Here's what you are looking for on Amazon

this will probably prove helpful, it's a paristaltic pump so the fluidic path never directly contacts the mechanical elements (as opposed to a syringe pump). PWM-able for timing control, and you can likely control the flow rate further by using varying inner and outer diameters of tubing.

just FYI - mine got to about 15 days printing and the power plug on the melzi board blew out. It didn't just melt the plug, it melted the board as well and popped the pin out in a manner that a new pin couldn't be soldered back in. 1 month downtime waiting for a new board from China sucked (warranty repair). Lesson learned - if you smell any new burning plastic smell shut it down immediately. Even if your 3/4 into a 15hr print like mine was :). Buy yourself a bag of these. Replace it in about 15 minutes like I had to when the 2nd one went out about 48 hrs printing time later.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWF65WY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Here's where I got my connectors: Amazon You can probably find them cheaper since these also came with the terminals.

Here's the drivers compared with the originals.
http://i.imgur.com/bGsuepL.jpg

I think you're looking for bulkheads (like this https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002DKANM). Usually they are set up for either glued or threaded PVC pipe. If you go with threaded bulkheads, you can get barbed adapters (https://www.homedepot.ca/product/1000117559) so you can use flexible tubing with them. Make sure to use teflon thread tape on all threaded joints or they will leak.


Keep in mind that bulkheads only work on flat surfaces, not curved. If you want to pass pipe through a curved surface, you can use a uniseal.

There's also adapters you can use for connecting a hose to your shower head. I was going to run a hose in from an outside spigot but your post inspired me to look into it more. Thanks!

Anderson Metals Brass Garden Hose Fitting, Connector, 3/4" Male Hose ID x 1/2" Female Pipe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPAPM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dhQoDbT0A5G3M

Ooo didn't know no one was able to find something less than 38 cents!

!Here's one](http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B008HQ5N88/ref=nosim/krisssoccersi-20/)!

And I had a nice long nap today after I got off work! lol

Yellow Jacket 93842 Mini Ball Valve (3 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JC9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gHaIDb22XPC3K

He’s talking about these. When I got my gauge set up I got theses with the built in valves.

Yes sir.
This is a barb valve https://www.amazon.com/FPT-BARB-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0064OJDUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498193537&sr=8-1&keywords=barb+valve+1%2F2+1%2F2

This is camlocks https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1844.htm
All it is is a quicker way of changing tubing without the need to pull a tube off your barb valve.

The great thing about the brew hardware website is they explain how to install each and every part they sell.

Ok so no experience doing high volume Ejuice bottling, but had an idea for you.

First thing is use gravity, So get a container for the storage of the juice you are dispensing into the smaller bottles. Something large and that you can suspend from above. Also something that you can drill a hole into. Once you have this drill a hole towartds one edge of the bottom. Find yourself a stainless steel valve and get some stainless fittings to go from the bucket into the valve. Just screw one side into the valve and place a nut on the inside of the bucket to tighten it up to the hex part. Maybe get a longer one so you have plenty clearance on the handle. Use silicone or simiar food grade washers to seal this up. Maybe even a caulking if there is a food grade type.

At this point you have two choices. You can go straight into a barb fitting, then some flexible hose down to where your bottles will sit at. Just open the valve fill to weight close and move on. Or....

If it were me I would go into barb fitting then tubing then back into barb fitting and another valve. I would then measure this section between the valves to be the exact amount I want in each bottle. After the second valve it would go back into barb then hose for a final stretch of tubing to the fill area.

This way you would open first valve fill area to second valve, close first open second, fill bottle, close second, rinse and repeat.

Open valve 1, close valve 1, open valve 2, close valve 2, bottle filled. If you did around 3/8" to 1/2" on the tubing diameter even heavy VG should flow well just with gravity.

Once again I have never created a setup like this, but the problem intrigued me. Also just listed stainless fittings in general. I assume your doing this commercialy, and would use food grade which I googled to be 304, you may already be well aware of all of this, just thought I'd add it.

Best I could do was 31 cents

29!

It is solid, but it is pretty squishy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWU38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-2bUBbFW5QAHV

I ended up ordering this SS b/v. Seems like it should work with the correct nipples right? Also, how do you compress the actuator on the can tapper npt connection? Rip it out? Thanks for your help

I got this pack of 100 off Amazon Prime.

Size 013, 75A Durometer, 7/16" ID, 9/16" OD, 1/16" Width.

Using them in my Octane 45K, Omega 9K, and Osprey 45, perfect replacement for the o-ring in the retaining cap.

The reviews on that page have info on other sizes for other suppressors/uses.

Are you talking about a hose clamp?

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Brand-B-HS-Stainless-Clamp/dp/B007Q4YD38

Sorry I was on my phone before. let me see what i can find. I can't find the exact coupler I used but I might be able to find something else with some searching

ed: you're in luck, found a two step way using items available on amazon that connects to the 1/4" flare you originally tried to shove the hose directly onto. when i got my oven in, i needed it working THAT DAY, and the local hvac supply place didn't have 1/4" flare swivel couplers in stock.

http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-5911-4-Inch-Female-Adapter/dp/B008E5CVKA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419741989&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+inch+female+flare+swivel

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKL6Z2/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

You may also want a hose clamp or two to go with that

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Tie-33200-4-Inch-5-Stainless/dp/B006IOZ3YU/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1419742116&sr=1-1&keywords=1%2F4%22+hose+clamp

when i did it locally, i found a 1/2" Flare to 1/2" NPT swivel, and had to get some teflon tape and put a 1/2" NPT x 1/4" barb on it instead.

thieves are creatures of opportunity. It doesn't really matter what your bike's made of. What matters is how much of a pain in effort and time you can make it to steal. So it really comes down to a simple list of things:

• Two thick cables, one or even two D-locks. Kryptonite D-locks can even come with insurance policies that, when the lock is found to be insufficient and at fault, may recoup you up to ($-american)500. Attach the D-lock directly to your frame and something big and sturdy and metal. Thread the cables through your wheels and around frame and lock them securely either to the same thing as your D-lock, or through your D-lock
  
  `the D-lock is not just a big padlock that connects the two ends of a cable. It has to be around your frame and around a secure object at the same time. Please do not make this mistake!
  
  
• Lock your bike where you can see it at all times, if possible. If not, lock it where thieves have to really expose themselves as thieves. If you can take your bike inside with you, then do it.
  
  
• You can do smaller things, such as gluing steel ball bearings (metal beads) in various screw heads.
  Or custom-ordering screws that require a pentagon-shaped screw tip to turn, that's a rare tool thieves are unlikely to have. You'll have to order the tool, of course.
  hose clamps locking down the quick-release levers of your wheel hubs.
  
  here is Hal grading people's lock jobs. Follow his advice.