(Part 2) Best power tool lubricants according to redditors

Hey! I started much where you are and had no real way of learning from someone else on what to buy, what to look for, etc. etc. I've got a few tips for you!

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When I first started wrenching, I thought I needed air tools. Every mechanic's shop has airtools. Cars are big and mechanical, and it made sense that I'd need something beefy to pull them apart. TOTALLY FALSE. I'll let you know that 90% of my tools are handtools from harbor freight and I probably spent no more than $200 on the collection. Here's a rundown of my most used/invaluable tools:

• 3/8" drive socket wrench from harbor freight. Composite handle, great mechanism, very comfortable, very light. I have a nice set of kobalt socket wrenches. They don't shine a light on this bad boy in my experience. I have and use 2 pretty regularly. You might be able to get away with just an adjustable wrench.
  
• Impact sockets. Little bit beefier than regular sockets, but I very rarely come across an instance when these are not the answer.
  
• Color coded deep sockets. When the impacts aren't the answer, these are. I've only got a set of metric, and haven't needed to buy the SAE set yet. I won't buy them until I need them. The color coding seems trivial, but is HUGE when you're sick and tired of being under the car, just want to finish since the sun went down and your tired. Going for the blue socket is much easier than sliding around in relative dark trying every socket to see if it's right. That fucking sucks.
  
• Universal joints. Not 100% necessary, so don't buy them until you need them, but holy hell do they make life easier.
  
• Extensions. Access is everything when it comes to wrenching. These ones wobble, you might not like that. Try them in the store. Poking 18" of extension up into a crevice is all fun and games until your socket starts flopping around and you can't control it. Double entendre. The alternative are non-wobbling extensions. I have the non-wobbly ones. They've worked totally fine and I don't find that I need the wobble ones.
  
• Adapters to make all your junk work together.
  
• Breaker bar. When your arms fail you, this won't. Don't go for the cheapest. I did and snapped off the end. Totally fucked myself in my work parking lot.
  
• Torque wrench. Almost the most expensive tool in my arsenal. Torque specs are very important. This wrench is cheap as fuck, and people say it's a comparable buy to the snap on wrench. I love mine to death.
  
• Adjustable wrench Like having an entire socket wrench set in one single tool. More elbow grease, but very convenient.
  
• Body panel pry bars. You will need these for general "gentle" prying on body panel snaps. Where a screwdriver would mess up the paint, these are surprisingly effective.
  
• My crown jewel: The impact driver. This is my singularly most used tool. Get this with a set of bits, and you'll be unstoppable. Of course it's not necessary, but it makes 2 minutes of wrenching a 2 second affair. Add it up and it saves a lot of time. These and These are what make my impact driver the best tool in my arsenal.
  
• JACK STANDS. Cars are heavy, make sure it's safely supported and you'll be confident every time you go under your car.
  
• Jack to actually get your car up.
  
• Plywood squares to put under your jack stands, and jack. Jackstands have small feet that sink in grass and asphalt. Plywood stops them from sinking
  
• PB Blaster, or penetrating oil. This stuff will pay for itself the first time you use it. Loosens the bullshittiest of bullshit.
  
• OBD2 reader This bad boy combined with a $10 app on your phone (DashCommand) will let you communicate with your car's computer. I can read codes, clear codes, see voltage, and boost and vacuum pressures. I can see RPMs, engine timing, rich/lean conditions and any other shit that I'll never need to see. Troubleshooting is 100 times easier with this. Most auto stores will read codes for free, but they won't clear them.
  
  And that's basically it. Lift your car on level ground. Use jackstands. "Getting to" the actual issue is always like 80% of the work. The work itself is pretty easy generally. Youtube and reddit ( r/mechanicadvice, r/cars, and r/justrolledintotheshop ) are invaluable resources. These people know their shit and they know yours too. PB Blaster is magic oil. If something goes wrong, get it on video for the experts to see and hear instead of describing a skrrt skrrt sound when you're turning left then right, you know? Get cheap tools to start with. When they break, you know that you use them enough to justify better ones. If I've told you not to skimp somewhere, it's because I've skimped there before and I don't want you sitting there defeated. Buy tools as you need them. Start basic, then expand. It's not called a collection because you bought them all at the same time from the same place.
  
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  I got my start by changing my oil. Then my brakes. Then replacing this, then that, and now I'd feel comfortable working on a brand new vehicle. I'm no expert either. Just casual stuff. Building confidence is a big part of it. I wish you luck my man. If you ever need anything, let me know and if I don't have the answer, I'll find it for you.
  
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  To clarify. The tools I listed above are 99% of what I use.

Try cutting paste / wax. It's so much better for drill bits, hole saws, carbides, etc.. Plus, if you have to keep the floor clean, there is no mess. It still smokes and has a little smell to it, but it's not terrible. This is what I use.

I bought this, works great. It’s been cold as balls in Chicago.

3M 08877 Silicone Lubricant Plus (Wet Type), 9 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKVKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2Gj7BbJ1AMNZ2

Try corrosion X but you might be in trouble. I haven't had much luck with zippers once they start corroding like you're describing, saltwater destroys everything it touches unless it's washed immediately

Thing is, it works for maybe around half an hour until it evaporates and the squeak will be back. Get something like [this] (http://www.tri-statetech.com/admin/images/performance-lubricants-1.jpg) and the problem will be solved probably for months if not longer.

edit: pic is somewhat small, but that's a teflon lubricant. [This one is sold by Amazon.] (http://www.amazon.com/DM1046601-PARENT-DuPont-Teflon-Multi-Use-Lubricant/dp/B00P7F8MW6) I think the traditional solution is grease but it's rather messy.

Over the years, this is the chain-lubing regimen I've settled on:

1. Mount one of these on your bike. Costs $5. Mine fits nicely between my side pannier and the bike.
   
   
2. Put a can of this in it. Dupont Teflon Spray. They sell it at Lowes for $6 a can. It costs about half of what "chain lube" costs at a cycle shop and works great. Makes literally zero mess. No fling, no gunk build-up.
   
   
3. Spray your chain down with the teflon spray at every fillup, make it part of your gas-station routine. You're supposed to do it every 500 miles, but this way you're covered if you skip it once in a while. Since the can is on-board, it's right there so you'll be more inclined to lube the chain often.
   
   I've been following this regimen since Day One with my V-Strom (bought new). I have 23K miles on the stock chain/sprocket and could probably go another 10-15K on the set. The chain looks like I clean it regularly, but I've probably only cleaned it 3 or 4 times, ever. I've only had to tighten the chain 3 or 4 times over the life of the bike.
   
   

Make sure to lubricate those micrometers! I used to calibrate all our mics at my last job and Starret oil makes mics smoooooooooth.

May be worth it to get them calibrated as well. Or do it yourself, let me know and I can talk you thru it!

I guess a lot of you wanted the WWII version? This is the best I can find, hope it helps!

https://www.amazon.com/WWII-Alemite-6577-Grease-Single/dp/B076W33CL9

Yes, it is. It is a multipurpose spray and one of its biggest uses is for lubrication, making it a lubricant.

Amazon: read description and features and details. Lubricant. Also in the title. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HEVD89S/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=wd40+lubricant&qid=1554386265&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Wiki: read under function “The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile viscous oil which remains on the surface to which it is applied, giving lubrication and protection from moisture.”
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

Also the back of the fucking can! https://cdn0.woolworths.media/content/wowproductimages/large/098317_2.jpg

And it said it on the checkout screen when I bought it at the store! It’s a fucking lubricant. I swear you people have to disagree with everything just for the sake of arguing.

I'm going to go with no, it's got all kinds of petroleum products in it.

Assume if it doesn't say safe for rubber/seals, it's not. IIRC I'm using this or similar, available in plumbing aisles of your local hardware stores.

If you don't already have one and do it, consider investing in a 1000 grit diamond hone, like this popular Trend and some lapping fluid. You can re-hone those carbide tips 3-4 times before they're completely shot (unless they're chipped all around, then you're out of luck).

It's well worth the investment to get more life from the carbide tips, and the lapping fluid will last a long time (you only need one drop).

>I've got this coating on my phone called Liquipel, basically a hydrophobic coating that gets inside everything and makes it waterproof. They don't do DIY projects though, Is there any alternative I can use myself?

RC floatplane guys treat their electronics with [Corrosion-X] (https://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-X-Corrosion-Technologies-91002-Corrosionx/dp/B0009GYRWW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503582247&sr=8-4&keywords=corrosion+x). It feels like a thicker version of WD-40, but seems to work as advertised.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08877-Silicone-Lubricant-Plus/dp/B0002KKVKC

I had the same problem on my last car, a G37, and this is what Infiniti used to solve the problem for their sunroofs.

If you can afford it I would look into getting a Kimber pepper blaster. Really simple, ergonomic, and has a good range so you don't even have to be real close to defend yourself.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013INC6KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Jj5RBbWVCCTFM

I have heard the same thing, though I believe it to be more voodoo than science at this point. I haven't found any credible evidence on the subject.

On a whim, I decided to buy the Redding dry neck lube to try to add some lubricity back to the clean cases. Not sure if it will help in not but I have spent more money many other times chasing the white rabbit of precision ammo.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PFY0M90/

First you need to clean the table off with a good degreaser like purple power. Once all the grease is off wax it up with:

Glidecote V207501 Woodworking Aerosol Lubricant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ODZM7SG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_5FCOBbHNG33TA

Then toss that blade and pick up a Timber wolf blade that will work for whatever your going to cut. They make the best blades out there in my opinion. The blade that came with your saw is junk.

All electric..I used a solution called corrosionX, i wouldn't suggest soaking you're motor in it though. Just the ESC and servo.

Basement machine shop in New England here. I have yet to find an AMAZING corrosion resistant spray... LPS3 works well but leaves a film which isn't ideal if you're using things semi-often because you have to really wipe down all your precision surfaces and tapers. CRC SP-400 has been my go-to for a while. A can lasts a while and works for larger stuff. Just leave a wet coat on there.
For my small hand tools, especially micrometers, etc. I use Starrett tool and instrument oil. It's expensive but a small bottle goes a long way.
The biggest difference is putting things away. I keep all my precision stuff and hand tools in a toolbox with a few dessicants and there isn't a spot on any of it.

Schmierfix for the stabs and Victorinox for the slider

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-11016-Aerosols-Dri-Film/dp/B000RFRM4U

I love Super Lube products. Cheap and effective stuff. Their grease is the best NLGI 2 multipurpose grease you can get for the money.

DuPont also makes a semi-dry lube that's a little hard to find but my absolute favorite for things like hinges and garage door rails because it doesn't attract much dust but gets way into the crevices of things basically instantly. http://www.performancelubricantsusa.com/files/DuPont%20Product%20Availability%20Feb%202016.pdf It's their "multi-use" lubricant. The sticktivity isn't necessary for indoor stuff, but for outdoor hinges and garage doors and such it can't be beat since it also features some moderate rust protection.

I've never used that brand, but I've used other liquid wrench penetrators and it seems to be about as good as WD-40.


PB Blaster is what I use, and it works miracles.

http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-Chemical-PB-TS-Penetrating-Catalyst/dp/B0016GXONM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1324156262&sr=8-2

I found a vid which references the bottles. https://youtu.be/5rPaRRZDiDk?t=970

He talks all about them but unfortunately doesn't specify which brand he has. However, in the comments, many folks refer to them as Zoom Oiler bottles. A google search turns up a newer variant to the one he has. Maybe it's the same; it's hard to tell. Anyway, if you google Zoom Oiler bottle you'll find 'em. Check eBay as well. Happy oiling!

EDIT this looks like a close match: https://www.amazon.com/ounce-Zoom-spout-oiler-79704G/dp/B00IEHN30A/ref=sr_1_3

I modified mine by taking out the magnet the first day I got it (and yes it does void the warranty).

I ordered this lube to modify it as well as some other peripherals, but it isn't that expensive (considering the cost of the trackball).

I definitely would recommend the modification and lubrication of the device, it made the trackball feel like it costs, rather than feel like a $50 toy.

Edit: I didn't just use the dri film above as lubricant. I also used some permatex grease I had lying around to make it seem like a heavier scroll wheel, rather than a light plastic one.

Yeah here’s what I found. I’m not sure if they’re both the name and one just doesn’t have the ptfe name in it. Would the silicon lubricating do the job on metal and plastics? Ptfe:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0081JE0OO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517780048&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=super+lube+92003&dpPl=1&dpID=41r5t-pNsNL&ref=plSrch


Supposedly non ptfe:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WLQ251B/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517766052&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=superlube+21030&dpPl=1&dpID=31vuHYkzYeL&ref=plSrch


Can I use ptfe for metal on metal, plastic and rubber parts? What can I used the other one for?

Grab yourself some of the brand superlube off of Amazon.

Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WLQ251B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_THH2CbJRPZHHP

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017L1MOJA


Kinda pricey but you can dispense half a drop of oil with it.

Don't forget to lube the inside of your case necks/mouth during the FL resize.

https://www.amazon.com/Redding-Reloading-Equipment-Imperial-Convenience/dp/B00PFY0M90/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509673545&sr=8-1&keywords=dry+neck+lube

If it helps, this is what I used on my stem slider sides.

http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Multi-Use-Lubricant-aerosol-D00110101-C/dp/B0009LSXOA/ref=sr_1_cc_5?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1464382591&sr=1-5-catcorr&keywords=dupont+teflon+silicone+lubricant

I sprayed the lubricant onto cardboard, and used a q-tip to lightly brush the lubricant onto the switches.

Thanks... i live in germnay... how about this lube : https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00295AZ90/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&psc=1 is this Lithium...cant seem to read anywhere that it is lithium... or this spray https://www.amazon.de/WD-40-Specialist-Wei%C3%9Fes-Lithiumspr%C3%BChfett-400ml/dp/B007JI9NWW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522346002&sr=8-1&keywords=wd-40+lithium...but it should be thicc right ?

"Plumbers" is what you're missing.

Hey I just got home from a trip and found this on the doorstep. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UQ5PGM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Super lightweight oil, seemed to help with the diamond stones. https://imgur.com/FwHOREG.jpg

SUPCO MO-98 Turbine Oil

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KKVKC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Appliance repairman/ amateur watch hobbyists here. Only oil at my parts house is zoom spout turbine oil. One of these 4 oz bottles last me two to three years. Honestly, a watchmaker probably uses more oil than we do!

https://www.amazon.com/SUPCO-GIDDS-461354-Zoom-Spout-Turbine/dp/B008MG3T1Q