Best rc radios & parts according to redditors

Build Pics

Setup details:Monitor: Acer KG271USpeakers: Logitech z506KB: Tecware Phantom w 3rd party keycapsMouse: Razer Mamba Elite & Razer scarab mousepadCase: SM550

Build Details:
MB: Asus ROG Strix B450-i gaming
CPU: R7 3700x
CPU cooler: Cryorig C7G + NF-A9x14
Ram: Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200Mhz CL16
PSU: Corsair SF750 Plat
GPU: EVGA RTX 2080 Gaming XC
Additional Case Fans: 2x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3 Pwm

Notes:

1. Inserting MB before fans is easier in the SM550 (contrary to the manual)
   
2. 2x Silent Wings 3 were from previous build but they are waaay louder than the small NF-A9x14
   
3. The motherboard forces fans to go to 100% at 75 degrees, anyway to circumvent this?
   
4. Wifi/ BT antenna on the asus b450-i is kinda ugly, need suggestions for replacements
   
5. 3700x idles at ~50 and ramp up to 70-80 in games. Voltage jumps around 0.9-1.4 in idle but stays above 1.4 while gaming. Before disabling iCUE, Razer Chroma SDK, Razer Synapse and ASUS Aura sync, voltages were contantly 1.4v and up in idle
   
6. Sliger gives an option for:- internal 20pin- USB A and USB C- internal 20pin to USB A and internal type L to USB CGo for the former with an AMD mobo cos they dont have the internal type L socket for the individual type C port like on Intel mobos. Mine got shiped with the latter so I cant use my front type c port :( Need the new silverstone CP14 connected for the USB C port on the front panel or the new front panel IO for it to be useful
   
7. Didn’t add the GPU and supp mobo cables into pslate customs order! Have to wait till he takes orders again
   
   Questions:
   
   
8. Any suggestions on Wifi/BT replacements for this mobo?
   
   1. Currently looking at this antenna from huacam and this unbranded antenna
      
9. Any way to raise the thermal cap of the mobo to more than 75 degrees to stop fans ramping up so often?
   
   1. Stop gap measure is to set case fans to motherboard temperature, but under gaming loads CPU goes up to 80 degrees yikes gonna play more with fan curve
      
   2. Using noctua silent fan adapter works to cap max volume but ramping up is still an issue
      
   3. Noctua fan controller looks abit too big to fit into the case and cablemanagement would be quite messy
      
   4. Tried installing AI suite III and it crashed my com =/ don't really want to pay for software like argus monitor either
      
10. Are the temps and voltages for the CPU normal? Been getting conflicting/ confusing answers on the r/AMD threads
    
    1. TLDR they are normal
       
    2. Tried reducing PPT but temps and voltages are still similar, will look more into it
       
11. Will Sliger cases sell their internal 20pin to USB A and USB C header separately? (SOLVED)
    
    1. They do but will prioritize sending out current case orders first
       
       Overall pretty happy with the build quality and how the theme turned out. Black/gray with orange highlights :) Eagerly waiting the NF-A12x25 and NF-A9x14 chromax fans!!! (If we DO get them lol)
       
       (edit: added more info)(edit 2: added responses and findings)

I use these wifi antennas. No real numbers to back them up but they seem to work and stay out of the way https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If you're interested in learning you can start out with a simulator and an a real transmitter. It connects to your computer via USB. Personally, I used Liftoff (through Steam). A good transmitter to use is the FrSky Taranis Q X7. You learn a lot of the muscle memory and overall mechanics this way.

Then without breaking your wallet you can pick up a micro quad like this and practice indoors or even outside with just line of sight. Beyond that, it starts to get expensive. FPV goggles are pricey. You really get what you pay for. The cheap ones are hot garbage. FatShark is typically the way to go.

As with any hobby there's a very deep rabbit hole and a huge learning curve.

This guy's channel is a great place to learn stuff: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX3eufnI7A2I7IkKHZn8KSQ

Album Link

This is the Velka 3 v1.1 in Grey

---
This is my very first SFFPC build. I am coming a Fractal Design Nano S. This Velka 3 is Tiny! I did some small amount of basic modding to make it look like I wanted it. I replaced the 16mm Anti-Vandal switch that came with it for one that has an led for power. I wrapped the psu cables in an automotive cloth wiring harness tape so you couldn't see the bright psu cables from the original. I taped over the Velkase Fans to hide the colors of the stickers and cables as well. I also used the small quadcopter antennas.

---

Specs:

| Part | Price | Purchased at |
|:-----------|------------:|:------------:|
| Ryzen 5 1600| $65| hardwareswap
| MSI B450I Gaming Plus AC | $130| Amazon
| 8GB x 2 Crucial Ballistix Sport 3000MHz | $66| Amazon
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SC 6GB | $110| hardwareswap
| FSP 400w Flex ATX PSU | $90| Amazon
| Reeven Vanxie 34mm Tall | $20| Newegg
| Samsung EVO 970 250GB| ($70 otherwise)| Previous Build
| Velka 3 Grey| $80| Velkase
| 2 x VF-8010-PWM 80mm x 10mm| $20| Velkase
| Velkase-LiHeat 300mm Riser | $40| Velkase

---

Notes

Replacement Power Switch

• For the Replacement LED I chose this one from Amazon in White color. I snagged this to create the harness. Using Shrink tube and Cable Sleeving and some solder to attach it to the switch.
  
  
• For those of you interested in the space that the PSU has heres a close up with how close it to the power switch.
  
  

  CPU Cooler
  

• I chose this cooler just to try. This was way before the Black Noctua NH-L9 Released. I replaced the fan with a Velkase fan because its all black and has the same dimensions and also has a higher RPM. So far the temps have been good. My CPU isn't stressed while gaming (1080p 60hz). I think I turned on game mode in the bios and the CPU is at 3.4Ghz on all cores. The cooler is rated for 65W TDP.
  
  

  Case Fans
  

• For those interested in the 80mm x 10mm clearance heres a photo of close they come with the motherboard
  
  

  Velka 3 Sidenotes
  

• So just a small side note the case came with plenty of M3 Screws BUT I noticed that some are different styles. There are two types. Ones that are longer, and have a smaller phillips socket. And ones that are shorter and a larger phillips socket. The shorter ones actually are shallower and they don't protrude on the sides of the case as much. I used these for the exterior panels. The longer ones I used for mounting all the internals as they had more "bite" to hold everything together
  
• It also came with a prototype of the pico psu blanking plate for the PSU. Response from Michael on this exactly "the PSU cover is just an experimental part with limited use, so it is not mentioned anywhere. If the direct plug in HDPLEX 200 (not yet tested) physically fits into the case, then the PSU cover can be used with it. A PicoPSU from MiniBox can be used as well, but only if you correctly drill two small holes around the smaller circular opening in the plate."
  
• One thing I want to point out is with my particular case it had a blemish on the side panel. Not sure why but its noticeable when looked at closely. There's one on both sides in the same spot but this on is the most noticeable and more noticeable in person

That one on amazon you found looks really bad to be honest. When something breaks you'll have trouble finding a replacement, the radio is proprietary and will never work with anything else, it's got tons of plastic parts, and the battery is probably crap. Even if I'm completely wrong about it and it isn't garbage, there's no way it's worth $450, since you can actually get a pretty decent set up with that much.

There aren't going to be many good full kit options out there. The only one even worth considering is the eachine wizard, and even that is dubious at best. Instead you'll want to buy the radio, goggles, and then a BNF (bind and fly) drone all separately, which means you choose which receiver to put in it (usually when you buy it, you select which one when you add it to your cart and they'll put it in for you), and when you get it you just bind it to your radio.

For a radio, get the Taranis QX7. There are several options to consider, but you really can't go wrong with this, it's worth every penny: https://www.amazon.com/Frsky-Taranis-Transmitter-Racing-Drones/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1510987554&sr=1-1&keywords=QX7

This is a FRSKY radio, which means when you're buying the drone, just select FRSKY version so you get the right receiver in it.

Check out the channel uavfutures, he reviews a lot of prebuilt stuff, as opposed to other channels which review individual components. He does really clickbaity titles which can be difficult to get through, but check out his playlists as they're a bit better organized.

For goggles, there are so many to consider across a huge price range. The big two "types" are box style vs compact style. Boxes are big and bulky, but also a lot cheaper. Usually under $100. Most compact goggles are way up in the $300-$500 range, but there are a handful like the eachine EV100 and F640 that manage to get that slick form factor in at just over $100. Here's UAVFutures' playlist on them: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLP0PoGwU8OPYW549moGE6OSj5qNa8vx67, but if you prefer written down with way more detail and comparisons, Oscarliang is a fantastic resource as well: https://oscarliang.com/fpv-goggles-review-fatshark-skyzone/

It's also worth noting, since you asked, that latency is not really going to be an issue as long as you're using fully analog 5.8GHZ, which is going to be basically anything you see on uavfutures. Latency is only a thing on digital, like those shitty wifi cameras that connect to your smartphone. There are a couple digital FPV systems worth using, but they're still very new and thus very expensive.

Field of view is very important. The more you see, the more awareness you have. However that's a property of the camera lens, not the goggles. You can also swap out the lens very easily if you want it wider or different. I personally use this lens which is branded for gopro, but they're all the same.

Field of view in goggles is different, it's the size of the image in front of you. Getting wider field of view in this case won't actually allow you to see more, it'll just be stretched. You don't want to go too small or it'll be hard to see, but you also don't want to go too large or you'll have to move your eyes around the screen to focus on different things. Not too many goggles go outside of either extreme, so you probably won't need to worry about this part.

For the drone itself, again, UAVFutures. He reviews a ton. Just watch through a bunch of them and see which one catches your eye: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLP0PoGwU8OPaYMlsaWxSg7xr7xZXbxhf1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LMRK36

Looking at the Amazon listing, you’d need the following:

• A transmitter that works with the version of the drone you get (basically the remote control itself). Low end FlySky radios go for ~$55 and FrSky radios start around $100 (it’s a bit more expensive on Amazon).
  
• Either a set of FPV goggles or a monitor so you can actually see what the drone sees. Low end goggles start around $60ish and become very expensive very quickly.
  
• Multiple extra batteries for the drone, as a single battery lasts only a few minutes in the air. Rotorgeeks has comparable batteries for about $5 a pop
  
• A proper charger for the batteries, since it would take forever to charge multiple batteries at once with that supplied charger. I unfortunately don’t know what would be a good charger here, since my micro drones use a different battery connector than the Snapper.
  
  Frankly, though, if I were you I’d start off with a lower end starter pack. The Eachine E013 is in roughly the same size class but comes with a simple transmitter and a simple pair of goggles for ~$100. You’ll still have to get more batteries and a better charger, but it would be easier on your wallet and more forgiving as a new pilot.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LMRK36/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LMRK36/

This is the drone that I have built:

Been slowly building my first quad over the past month or so. Just when I have time. I bought a cheap carbon fiber kit off amazon. I will list everything I have bought so far.

Fly Sky FS-i6 Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3PZ3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fly Sky FSia6b RX (need this to run PPM instead of PWM): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3Q3XU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LHI quad Kit with ESC's, Motors and Flight Controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010FMGUS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now the above kit comes with a CC3D flight controller, after some research, I decided that I would use a Naze32 rev6 board instead. I purchased that from Hobby king, I will list all hobbyking purchases after amazon.

Nylon hex nuts, screws and stand offs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EPLH08Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT60 connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9HM7NC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lipo Voltage Checker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7UXVL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Battery / GoPro straps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F7MEDW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 PS: good velcro isnt enough!

Tri-blade Props. Buy a couple of these!:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CHDNRRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extra arms....JUST IN CASE! https://www.amazon.com/LHI-Carbon-thick-250mm-Quadcopter/dp/B01715HGNU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472346179&sr=8-1&keywords=LHI+arms


These are all the hobby king stuff that I bought:
Naze 32 FC ACRO: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__96841__AfroFlight_Naze32_Rev6_Flight_Controller_Acro_.html

1300 mah 3s 45-90c lipos: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18207__Turnigy_nano_tech_1300mAh_3S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html

Besides a lipo charger, the above will get you flying! Below is everything needed for the FPV aspect! I used to run RC cars so luckily I had a lipo charger from those days

Camera and transmitter from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262061528376?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Clover antennas from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272297376391?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Quanum Cyclops FPV Goggles from hobbyking: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__104150__Quanum_Cyclops_FPV_Goggle_w_Integrated_Monitor_and_Receiver_AR_Warehouse_.html

Now this is prolly the most basic, beginners fpv setup that you can buy... Its perfect for learning and crashing lol. I have about 3 flights with mine so far, about 4 batteries. Buy props lol, lots of props. Already had to change 1 arm too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These have worked well from me, and are pretty small

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LMRK36/

I love eachines https://www.amazon.com/Eachine-700tvl-ET200-200mW-Transmitter/dp/B00WQZNZ54/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474931947&sr=8-1&keywords=eachine+200mw

The FS-T6 is kind of old, you're better off with the FS-i6 for the same price.

Someone else would have to comment about the FC; I haven't used KK2.1. You will need some way to get 5V to the flight controller (like a polulu 5V step down or matek PDB or something).

Also you'll need a power supply for the battery charger. And probably more batteries.

I learned on RealFlight with the controller it came with. I think that both simulators will work fine. The trick is to pretend that you are flying a real vehicle and to avoid crashing and resetting often. “Practice makes permanent”

I always had trouble with the Teranis and USB cable so I use this with success: https://www.amazon.com/FrSky-Compact-XSR-SIM-Dongle-Transmitters/dp/B07GD6ZLW7

Sure, I ran into some issues with a few lemme grab you a list

List:
[Makerfire 4pcs] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRJMVCC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)

4PCS ML2206S 2400KV 2CW 2CCW Brushless Motor 3S-4S For RC FPV Drones QAV 210 250 300 Mini Quadcopter Multicopter

RAYCORP 5040 3-Blades 5x4x3 Propellers. 16 Pieces (8CW, 8CCW) Black & Green 5-inch Tri Blades Quadcopter & Multirotor Props + Battery Strap

[Uxcell a14120500ux0277 30Pcs M3 6Mm+40 mm Male-Female Nylon Hex Stand-Off Pcb Spacer Pillar[(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YM3SNAU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)


Wolfwhoop WT05 Micro AIO 600TVL Camera Only 3.4g 5.8GHz 48CH 25mW FPV Transmitter with Dipole Brass Antenna Combo for FPV Quadcopter Drone

FlySky FS-i6-M2 2.4GHz 6-Channel Transmitter

Makerfire FPV Goggles with DVR 5.8G 40CH Raceband Build-in 2000mAh Battery for FPV Racing Drone RC Quadcopter

I use these. They are tiny but work well, my router is on the floor above me and I've never had a problem with these

I believe it's lemon that works with spektrum... but... I'd just by the real spektrum sat receiver.

Spektrum DSMX Quad Race Receiver with Diversity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABV7K5A/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_cQGozbW87XDWD

I haven't had any problems with it. His controller should have dsmx if it's newer. Google your FC to find the right wire pins. Should be just signal, pos, negative

Would this be acceptable?

These are the ones I use on my Gigabyte Aorus B450i mobo - 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna RPSMA Male Dipole Whip FPV Antenna for FPV Multicopter Racing Drone Quadcopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4a5ODb60E28V4

Works very well

The only thing that is a pain with the QX7 and R9 is updating. You gotta remove the module and place a servo connector on the top 3 pins when you update your recievers. This is not needed in the QX7S as it has a port built into the bottom.

Edit: The QX7 does have an upgrade port. Whoops. What it lacks is a charging port 😳

Edit: Well shit last picture.

I used these:

Makerfire 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna RP-SMA Male Dipole Whip FPV Antenna for FPV Multicopter Racing Drone Quadcopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7E-8AbSHNSN3C

Way better than the standard ASRock one on my Z370 Fatal1ty and much smaller, too. Don’t ask me how that’s possible. 😂

5GHz is especially good with these. Ask me tomorrow and I’ll check what my link speeds are, if it’ll help. FWIW, I’m behind a 6’ tall mirror and two interior walls, plus a hallway. In total, maybe ~25 feet away from a Synology RT-2600ac with both bands active on a 100Mbps Spectrum package.

Is this the correct one?

Can you recommend a good fixed 4ch fixed pitch for me to get? The CP X looks cool, but I bet I would destroy it, having flowing nothing other than a s107, even after a while at the sim.

I ended up buying these tiny antennas from Amazon. Performance has been the same as the stock antenna so far, but my PC is in the same room as my router so signal strength isn't really a problem for me. Aesthetically, they are perfect in that they are so tiny as to be basically hidden amongst the cables plugged in the back.

He posted it below: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LMRK36

So the kits are nice and fly out of the box and are super expensive. If you're interested and not sure you want to do it I would say go and purchase a cheaper but versatile radio like this one-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IOOXZ0LWZ7WX6&colid=3JZ28VNN5WA0Y&psc=0

Once you have one you can use the online simulators or on Steam to get stick time in. Later, you can build your own. It's really not as hard as it sounds guys....you just need to solder really. Plus, WHEN you break it (you will) you will know exactly how to fix and trouble shoot. Check out this guys vids- he has a full parts list in the description. https://youtu.be/Avp8MurmeEY

I used to be a fixed wing drone pilot in the military. Some of the guys I worked with competed in the world class series quad and RC flier circuits. I say lets do it and start a FPV Tally Racing League!

Radio -> Sim -> Build -> Learn to Fly LOS w/o FPV -> buy crap entry goggles -> Go pod racin' at Tom Brown!

I use ones that are used for drones. My gigabyte z390 mini itx has the the connectors close too. 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

No problem with antennas at all. I mostly use Ethernet so wasn’t concerned about the look. Good luck.

Since your micro uses DSM2 I would look at going with a DX6i. This Tx would be compatible with both DSM2 and DSMX. Full range DSMX receivers have been tested up to 1.5 miles in range depending on conditions.

Eachine 700tvl ET200 5.8G 32CH 200mW Mini FPV Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQZNZ54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lqkoxb5XX7ACR

I have 3 of these and am very happy. 1 day prime, $27, compatible with your goggles and nearly any others. Easy control of channels and bands.

These antennas match well:

Crazepony 2pcs Aomway Antenna 5.8G 3DBi 4 Leaf Clover for FPV Multicopter TXRX (RP-SMA Male) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBBY456/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jvkoxbFCH34XZ

With this $15 range extender, I've gotten 2024m over lakes, and 1400m over land. Over urban areas, I get about 1km, which is supposed to be its max range. The important key is making sure you are always directly facing the drone and having the extender facing it directly.
https://www.amazon.com/SKYREAT-Parabolic-Standard-Controller-Transmitter/dp/B01DC0ZCN4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469742363&sr=8-2&keywords=phantom+3+range+extender

I'd also be looking at X9 Lite Pro w/ support for access.
Also stuff like Jumper T8SG. If you can find some local meetup or anything and want to go check it out you can scope out transmitters people have and ask to hold one just to judge size. I wouldn't find such a question unreasonable. Really any transmitter is really going to work.. its mostly about size, and maybe getting support for access to minimize latency.

You can use usb cables to hook up transmitter to pc, but really this is the thing to do: https://www.amazon.com/FrSky-Compact-XSR-SIM-Dongle-Transmitters/dp/B07GD6ZLW7

I've got a Nvidia Shield and stream PC to my TV in living room and then sit back on couch with transmitter connected to usb receiver in pc in the other room.

I don't have a lot of experience with 2 stick controllers, I found the FlySky FS-i6 for $50:

https://www.amazon.com/FlySky-FS-i6-M2-2-4GHz-6-Channel-Transmitter/dp/B00PF160IK/ref=sr_1_30?keywords=2+stick+rc+controller&qid=1568313826&sr=8-30


This is way over kill for what you need, but my quick search did not find any cheap 2 channel stick controllers. If the Vaporizr has a separate receiver, you can replace it, otherwise, if you get a different controller, you will need to get 2 small ESC's as well. That's why I recommended modding the existing controller. You MIGHT be able to find another controller that works on the same radio channel/frequency that uses the same control scheme that is physically larger, but that will involve a lot of searching and trial and error.

This is a little pricier but you can have it tomorrow. https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Transmitter-Helicopter-Multicopter-Fixed-wing/dp/B01M0P8Q8U/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1495083860&sr=1-2&keywords=rc+transmitter

You'll also want some cheap servos
https://www.amazon.com/J-Deal-Micro-Helicopter-Airplane-Controls/dp/B015H5AVZG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495084159&sr=8-2&keywords=servos

And you also need an ESC, motor, prop, and battery. If you don't have a soldering iron you'll have to find an esc and motor with pre-soldered connectors.

A cheap easy way to fly indoors like he was is to get a controller ( cheaper or a little better ) and a micro whoop. You will also need some fpv goggles which can range from $50-$300+ or so. A cheap FPV monitor can work for a beginner to try out though!

Edit: sorry no hyperlinks worked. On mobile

For a more budget option, I'd suggest the FlySky FS i6
https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-2-4GHz-Transmitter-Helicopter-Receiver/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y
It is reliable, fairly high quality, and also has cheap ~ $10 USD receivers (fs ia6)

A newer model, the Taranis X7 is a well made, reliable radio, although more expensive. However, it's the best on the market right now for its price. Its very new, and might be hard to find, but it's ~ $105 price point is well worth it.
http://www.getfpv.com/frsky-taranis-q-x7-2-4ghz-16ch-transmitter-white.html

Assuming you picked up one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Eachine-700TVL-Degree-Camera-Transmission/dp/B00WJFKXS8

That video transmitter outputs unfiltered (bad) 5v (good) to the camera. You can add an LC filter later if you notice bad signal when adding throttle.

LC Filter: https://www.amazon.com//dp/B018X744TO/

Note that cmos cameras generally have trouble with detail in changing light conditions. Since you are getting 5v out, you can easily upgrade this later to a much nicer ccd camera (though you might need to solder some wires together).

The gold standard of fpv cameras is the hs1177, this one is my favorite:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6GPYS6/

You have a good working setup though, I would only upgrade as you go

Yep, the DIY is entirely solder based. Its literally basic aeronautical/electronic engineering when designing a quad. The thing is they break pretty easy with beginners flying and doing the building, let alone a bunch of kids.

If your going to do this I would recommend looking into tiny whoops for the kids to get into. They are super cheap and can be modified almost to the scale of a full miniquad except on a much smaller scale. They can be fully tuned and modified as heavily as you want and the kids would get the basic concept of how a quadcopter works. You can just buy all the parts for them and teach them how to assemble them. Assembly requires no soldering unless your installing a camera or new power connectors. They are super fun for beginners and can be built pretty tough. They don't go super fast but they can be modified heavily to make them zip, which makes them safe yet fun. They don't hold up amazing outside, but they do pretty good. Since they are so small you can make super fun indoor tracks with loops for them to fly though. Just flying around a house becomes a big jungle gym when your that small.

For tiny whoops you really just need the following parts
Frame - This frame is not designed for the whoops, but with a couple snips of the battery holder and some foam inserts it becomes one of the best. Its also cheap...

Flight controller These flight controllers will give you the functionality of full mini quad running betaflight. This will allow you to fully configure and tune them on your computer allowing you an opportunity to teach them how a flight controller works. I would recommend looking up Joshua Bardwell's youtube channel and looking at his PID tuning classes. I won't get into the details but PID (proportional integral derivative) tuning is the mathematical filtering your flight controller is doing behind the scenes. Your flight controller is taking in information from its measurement devices (acceloromiter, gyroscope, and sometimes even barometers) and running it against the values you give it to check for divergence of error from the desired values and compensating for it by applying filters. Basically it allows you to make your quadcopter fly the way you want it to fly. You can make it fly loosy goose or like an automated robot and almost every quadcopter made uses this type of system behind the scenes. Do note that the larger the quad the more you can work with in terms of the software controlling the system. These tiny whoops can be locked in with tuning but you have to remember they still only weigh like 10 grams.

Motors These motors are the best in the sense of range of performance. If you got some of these sample packs you can mix and match motors to show what a motor with higher kv does compared to one thats lower. Higher kv on these motors = more power but more power draw and less flight time. This is also effected by the propellers you are using.

Props The frame comes with some props but you can lose them pretty easy. Nothing really special about these but they get the job done. Also it helps to chop off two of the blades on each prop to make them more efficient for a little power loss.

Extras-- I don't know if your looking to get into fpv with the kids but the whoops are able to support a small camera and you can fly them with with either a monitor or goggles. This stuff can be found on tiny whoops website or youtube. If you need any help selecting stuff feel free to message me.

Other necessities--
Radio Your gonna need a radio and I'm not sure how to make this cheaper. Radios are really just something most people only buy one of and they spare no expense if they use it a lot. The only cheaper radio on the market that is worth looking at is the flysky radios, but I'm not sure if they would work with the acrowhoop board. You have to have an frsky radio for a frsky board or a spektrum radio for a spektrum board for these.

This got kinda long so I'm gonna cut it here. If you need any help just let me know.

Mine is copper...really no idea if there's a difference between the 2.

Edit - I have this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DC0ZCN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SQe8ybZGW19HK

Don't think that receiver will work with the kissFC, and even if it does, the latency and weight would put you at a disadvantage. Your best bet is to buy something like this

Spektrum DSMX Quad Race Receiver with Diversity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABV7K5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hRATzbXVJSJSJ

motor/esc $31

2s lipo (2 pack) $16

3 wire servo $13

pinion .6mod $7

flysky FS-GT2E tx/rx $35

metal front axles $8

metal rear axles $8


Total $120

fast, reliable, 15-20min per battery

Devo 7e with Deviation firmware. You'll want to do the range mod.

Deviation will give you 12 channels and DSM2/X. You'd need to install a radio module to get FrSky support.

I would recommend this radio to start, I have had it for over a year, and I’m not close to outgrowing it yet. FlySky FS-i6-M2 2.4GHz 6-Channel Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PF160IK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uMcLzbNJZVAWH

As far as servos are concerned, you can use the super cheap blue 9 gram servos, as they are almost disposable, but I would recommend the metal gear mg90s servos. Nothing more frustrating than landing wrong and accidentally stripping a Servo.

Here are the blue servos: http://r.ebay.com/s0XKOt

And here are The mg90s: http://r.ebay.com/d8mu3D

I've moved away from dipole on my micro quads and I'm using these instead I cut off the connector, solder the ground and signal wire, then cut the element down to 12.922mm or as close as I can get. They still work great, and with the reduced weight, it's a lot less stress on the connection. They're nice and cheap too.

It's not mine, NCSU hired some professionals to take this footage. I would guess they did take outdoor footage of the library as well, but I'm not able to find much else about this. I don't know what it was used in.

Of course, you could always do it yourself - two examples at opposite ends of the spectrum would be the expensive but high-end DJI Phantom + a GoPro, or a cheap low-quality quad like the V959 (with built-in camera).

The quad in that video looks custom built, but I recognized the transmitter as the DX6i which is basically a beginner/intermediate transmitter, so they probably aren't even very experienced (by that I mean, anyone could do it with just a little practice).

I got this one at Amazon for $50. I liked it so much I bought a second one to fly with friends.

Amazon links:

Motor and ESC - Amazon

Transmitter/Receiver - Amazon

Servo - Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LMRK36/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am just using Eachine EV800 goggles with the Eachine ProDVR and this VTX

Can you do this? I came out with a build for $206 with some decent parts:

FC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS3X1BF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2V5MVAECJYWCD&psc=1 (this is not a great one, but it will do)
ESCs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0786FQJ7F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1LU71BLX914GS&psc=1 (32 bit ones even - very future-proof, but quality could be iffy)
Motors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VMS4C8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1ZTBUF0TDJOMN&psc=1 (these are really great motors for the price. You can get cheaper, but these are worth it)
Frame: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0W2NOS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1LU71BLX914GS&psc=1 (this is a great frame and very roomy for a first-time build.)
Radio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZJBTAG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1PJ0S5YOZYEO4&psc=1 (the FlySky bundle)

Total: $206.78

Here's why I wouldn't do this, though. First, that radio. It's not a great radio. Why buy that when for a couple of bucks more you can order a Taranis X7? The Taranis will be the ONLY radio you will likely ever need for a long time. Not only does it run FrSky, which is the best radio system out there, but it has a module bay that you can use for DSM/toy grade stuff, etc. Yes, Amazon's price is way too high for this, but your radio is not something that I'd cheap out on. When you're talking a $40 difference for something that will not be very expandable versus one of the best radios ever made, I'd go for the Taranis.

The other big drawback - your budget is gone, and you don't have a battery, charger, etc. You also have no spare props, and you will need lots of props if you're flying.

Plus, IMHO, flying a 250-size line-of-sight isn't much fun. That's in large part due to my crappy eyesight, but if I'm close enough to have a clear view of my orientation I'm too close for comfort. I've seen some AMAZING LOS flying before, but it's just not my cup of tea.

If you want to stick with Amazon and about $200, here's an option:

Radio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AK3V5KK2JCVKS&psc=1
Whoop: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P5777Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3GZUGKBRUI9VM&psc=1

Total: $194.98 - ready to fly, with battery and basic charger.

Here's why I think the Whoop is a better choice: you can crash a Whoop and have a much smaller chance of breaking something expense. They're fun to fly both LOS and FPV. This one runs Betaflight so you can get used to that software. Replacement parts are cheap. If it's raining, you can fly. You can fly at night. You can fly in your kitchen. You can annoy the living daylights out of your pets. You can fly around your kids without worrying about them catching a prop and getting hurt.

Did I mention Whoops are FUN?

Plus, you have a transmitter that you will keep using for a long time, not one that's basically a small step up from toy grade.

The downside is that you're not really building it yourself, although if you get the desire to do so you can upgrade a piece at a time for really cheap.

If you really want to build a larger quad, you're going to have more luck on a site like Banggood where your money will stretch farther. Amazon is much better with quad parts, but they're still charging a premium and selection is spotty.

I like my flysky. They're the same as Turnigy I think? Remember that there's a huge difference between the FS-T6 and FS-i6, the i6 being newer with telemetry and stuff. link for Flysky

Also recommended are the OrangeRX and TX systems. Link to Orange TX

You have no idea how helpful you are!

I only have 1 question left to ask, I was looking at the deviation transmitters specifically this Walkera : https://www.amazon.com/Walkera-DEVO-7E-Control-Transmitter-Channel/dp/B00B3OCRTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484613948&sr=8-1&keywords=Walkera+devo

On the deviation page it says it supports flysky : https://www.deviationtx.com/

so would that amazon linked transmitter work with the flight controller you linked here : http://www.banggood.com/Beecore-F3_EVO_Brushed-ACRO-Flight-Control-Board-DSM2-For-Inductrix-Tiny-Whoop-Eachine-E010-p-1089021.html?rmmds=search

If so i think i will be going with one of the walkera since they are more in my budget.

I found this on Prime with a few extra goodies. Is this the same protocol as the standard FlySky i6? Would it would if I built, say, a FlySky compatible Whoop?

https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Transmitter-Helicopter-Multicopter-Fixed-wing/dp/B01M0P8Q8U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483988449&sr=8-3&keywords=fs-i6

So far this is what im thinking of getting
Quad kit http://www.miniquadbros.com/collections/mini-quad-kits/products/nighthawk-170-kit-for-fpv-racing

Transmitter
http://www.banggood.com/Flysky-X6B-2_4G-6CH-i-BUS-PPM-PWM-Receiver-for-AFHDS-i6s-i6-i6x-Transmitter-p-1101513.html?rmmds=search

Controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PF160IK/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1PJ0S5YOZYEO4

Battery charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E8MOG1O/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2YGVOB7APVMLY

Fpv Goggles
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016I9KZ74/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2L04UHZDHUT54&coliid=IZ1DGBYR0X676

Is that all i would need?

Since I recently purchased the receiver, I think I'll just return it and start over. This looks like it should have what I need: https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-i6X-Transmitter-FS-iA6B-Receiver/dp/B0744DPPL8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519086107&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=flysky&psc=1

Any thoughts?

I learned to fly on my own, with some input from my uncle who is an expert RC pilot, and alot of online research. First, I would recommend getting a decent transmitter and not cheaping out, for reliability, features, and to have one that will carry over to future planes. I have the Spektrum DX6i for about $140. You can find them at most hobby shops, or Amazon, eBay, etc. You can use this transmitter with a mono 1/8" cable to plug into your sound card, and use the free simulator [FMS] (http://modelsimulator.com/) along with a program called Smart Propo Plus to practice flying for free. For your first plane, I would start with the Hobbyzone Super Cub. It's a nice prop plane with no ailerons, which makes it very easy to learn takeoff and landing techniques. It handles well, parts are readily available and cheap. It is also very durable and will handle rough crashes well. This version is Bind & Fly. This means there is easy assembly, and you simply install a jumper to automatically bind the receiver to your transmitter. Let me know if this helps, I can write more details about how I started learning to actually fly.

http://www.amazon.com/Walkera-DEVO-7E-Control-Transmitter-Channel/dp/B00B3OCRTY



This is the devo 7e that is modify-able correct? Does this price seem right?

[The ET200] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQZNZ54/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_MSGmxbNBM58SY)

It's got the small LEDs to show you what channel you are on. And comparing the list of channels from the transmitter and the list of channels from the receiver, they are listed as being the same.

At this point I don't know what one to believe if either. I wish I could get another receiver to link up to it so I could actually see if the channels are what they say they are. Because as this point my goggles are the only thing hooking up and it doesn't have a channel display.

Parts List:

[ZMR 250 frame (Banggood knockoff)] (http://www.banggood.com/ZMR250-V2-Carbon-Fiber-Frame-Kit-4_0mm-Arm-Thickness-Support-1806-2204-2206-Power-p-1010702.html)

[Cobra 2100kv motors] (http://rotorgeeks.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=304])

Little Bee 20A escs

CC3D FC

5 in 1 PDB

1300mah battery

5045 dalprops

Eachine FPV vtx kit

Quanum V2 Pro

I had some issues on the first attempted flight with the quad spinning uncontrollably. It turns out that in dronin, it didn't save my setting that reversed all of the motor directions.

Next, I need to upgrade batteries and antennas. I'm open to suggestions for both.

Doesn't mention the strength of the vTx. Might not happen.

I was using this Eachine. It was good.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQZNZ54/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475128653&sr=sr-1&keywords=eachine


This would be really good. http://www.team-blacksheep.com/products/prod:unify_pro

The FOV on those goggles isn't that good. I just upgraded to Dom V3's and the immersion is amazing.

The FlySky, FlySky FS-i6-M2 2.4GHz 6-Channel Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PF160IK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z.DmDbXGHABR2 , heck of a lot cheaper and will get you started, and you can get the FS-ia6b which has I-bus for the serial connection. About $100 all together

Hey! I sure will. Thanks for your reply. That sounds great. I'd like to experiment with the cheaper FPV goggles before I invest in something nice. One quick question for you on the transmitter, is the FS-I6x good?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/?coliid=I24XHKH2B0O5Y8&colid=3E2Q40NU5VK0A&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I don't mind spending $30-40 more to buy something that will last me through upgrades (FPV being the biggest one). I see it has 10 channels out of the box and is only like $10 more than the FS-I6. I appreciate the reply!

Can anyone tell me what size Ipex connector is used on the receiver of the FrSky Eachine Lizard95? I bought this set of antennas on Amazon thinking they were the correct ones:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGD445X/

But it was immediately apparent they were a noticeably larger Ipex connector. When I tried to put them on they could be wiggled right off with next to no force. Nowhere near the strength (and snap) of the original antenna.

Can anyone point me in the right direction? I was hoping to use Amazon prime so I can get back in the air faster, but at this point I'll take any vendor that ships from the US if the price is fair.

awesome, thanks! I think I've mostly got it figured out now, and I believe I need 4 parts total...

• drone (BNF model, not PNP, so it comes with a FrSky receiver)
  
• battery (seems to not come included... whatever)
  
• video receiver (narrowed down options)
  
• transmitter (and adapter plug thingy if I go with non-FrSky?)
  
  drone:
  
  
• https://www.geekbuying.com/item/EMAX-BABYHAWK-R-Racing-Drone-BNF-with-Receiver-390291.html
  
  battery:
  
  
• https://www.ebay.com/itm/JJRC-7-4V-450MAH-35C-Lipo-Battery-JST-Plug-For-Emax-Babyhawk-FPV-Racer/122562788413
  
  video receiver options:
  
  
• 1- decent integrated headset
  
• https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-EV100-720540-5_8G-72CH-FPV-Goggles-With-Dual-Antennas-Fan-7_4V-1000mAh-Battery-p-1182469.html
  
  
• 2 - cheaper integrated headset
  
• https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VR-007-Pro-VR007-5_8G-40CH-HD-FPV-Goggles-4_3-Inch-Video-Headset-With-3_7V-1600mAh-Battery-p-1134154.html
  
  
• 3 - receiver for cellphone plus google cardboard equivalent
  
• https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-ROTG02-UVC-OTG-5_8G-150CH-Dual-Antenna-Audio-FPV-Receiver-for-Android-Tablet-Smartphone-p-1242422.html
  
• with
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Headset-KAWOE-Virtual-Compatible-Smartphone/dp/B07546GT3X/
  
  
  transmitter:
  
  
• this is where I'm a little confused why FrSky is so much more expensive than 'FlySky' but whatever, I don't think I want to get into external modules so I should probably spend the $105 to $125 on a Q X7 which should be compatible out of the box, if I understand that description right
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Frsky-Taranis-Transmitter-Racing-Drones/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/
  
  
• https://www.banggood.com/FrSky-ACCST-Taranis-Q-X7-2_4GHz-16CH-Transmitter-White-Black-p-1112717.html
  
  
  SO net net for drone + battery + VR + transmitter I'm looking at around $140 + $15 + $80 + $100. Ballpark $350.
  
  If it all works out I guess that's not so bad. And when I lose the drone, I'm only down $150, not all $350.

So, just arrived, it also didn't come with a controller, because I'm not so great at fully reading descriptions lol any reason to not go with a FlySky FS-i6-M2 2.4GHz 6-Channel Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PF160IK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e4VLAbY579SZE ?

Those just use an ipex connector yeah?
This should do it if so https://www.amazon.com/iFlight-Receiver-Antenna-Generation-Controller/dp/B06XGD445X

Yeah I agree with stoneyyyy the qx7 is the way to go.
FrSky 2.4G Accst Taranis Q X7 16 Channels Transmitter Remote Controller White Battery and Battery Trays Not Include https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072559WH9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ECKDDbT8CG4FZ

Pro tip, get these to replace the big shark fin antenna

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Nc7DDb39NFBVB

Yeah it's a pretty common cheap tx for beginners. I can't find any mode 2 tx on Amazon. I think this one is a mode 2 so should work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cpaSBbFCTAAFP


And here's the cable you need for use with simulators or any game.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AAETLVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XuaSBbYTBB400


Or if you want a better Tx that's 'futureproof' consider paying more and getting a Taranis Qx7. It's about 100 bucks and both the hardware and firmware are better in quality and there is gobs and gobs of support online as it's one of the most used TX in the whole RC hobby. Plus there's no extra adapter cable needed to use with Sims. Any micro USB cable, plug it in to your PC and it's auto recognized by most Sims.

https://alofthobbies.com/frsky-taranis-q-x7.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fMaSBb5CRX90A

https://www.amazon.com/Makerfire-Antenna-RP-SMA-Multicopter-Quadcopter/dp/B071LMRK36/ref=mp_s_a_1_26?crid=1NHXRXHED4WBI&keywords=drone+antenna&qid=1550411329&s=gateway&sprefix=drone+ant&sr=8-26

I use these, it's extremely small and it's extremely fast.

Ah, thank you for clarifying

It's this one: GoolRC FS-i6 AFHDS 2A 2.4GHz 6CH Radio System Transmitter for RC Helicopter Glider with FS-iA6 Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_WKGOybBQJ7P6M

I saw that there are a few sim adaptors but it's kind of daunting not knowing which ones are good or junk

Highly recommend the akk vtx it performs extremely well for the price point it hits and competes with the immersion rc stuff plus it has a pigtail which means it's way harder to break. Also contains a safety feature where it doesn't immediately power up to any mw and you can change channels to avoid interference on start up.

AKK X1P 5.8Ghz 40CH 25mW 200mW 600mW Switchable FPV AV Transmitter with Pigtail for Racing Drone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N948FF7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rHqNybYHKC7XJ

One of the posts on this subreddit asked about transmitters, and a person replied that this was a good cheap option in terms of transmitters. https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Flysky-Transmitter-Helicopter-Receiver/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y. What do you think about this one? (By the way, he didn’t link this specific one, but he said that this transmitter was a good option)

Yeah I've got a good soldering iron, no issues there. So I'm looking at this receiver below, would this be what I need to connect the wizard to the Taranis QX7? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VM1XWB0/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IR5SO4KJ1L4AW&colid=99GAMP1I5H2R

Would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/FrSky-Taranis-Channels-Transmitter-Controller/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/145-3760442-2589169?ie=UTF8&qid=1543342245&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=taranis+qx7&dpPl=1&dpID=51aJslo8BuL&ref=plSrch

Here's what I could come up with, I have to go to lunch now. Yours is probably better. Around $258.03.

Frame: https://www.readymaderc.com/products/details/rmrc-valorem-vrf-230-carbon-fiber-frame - 12.99

AIO Flight Controller which includes PDB & 4 in 1 ESC: https://www.racedayquads.com/products/bardwell-stack-aio-fc-and-32bit-4-in-1-esc-combo - 84.98

4x Motors: https://www.readymaderc.com/products/details/rmrc-silver-line-br2205h-2600kv-cw-thread-ccw-rotation - 37.96

3x Propellers https://www.racedayquads.com/collections/5-props/products/dal-cyclone-tri-blade-prop-t5045c?variant=40404012039 - 8.97

Transmitter: https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-i6X-Transmitter-FS-iA6B-Receiver/dp/B0744DPPL8 - 56.00

Receiver:https://www.amazon.com/FPVKing-Flysky-Receiver-Transmitter-Battery/dp/B075D9D67D/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1542210233&sr=1-4&keywords=x6b+receiver - 15.49

Battery: https://www.amazon.com/Turnigy-2200mAh-3S-40C-Lipo-Pack/dp/B0072AEZ8O/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8 - 25.93 or this and this - 20.28 (What's the difference, isn't the first one easier?)

Solder Iron: https://www.readymaderc.com/products/details/rmrc-portable-soldering-iron-xt60 - 8.99

Solder: https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-quad-solder-38-62-0-8mm-100g - 6.99

or I just go with Bardwell's budget build kit with the receiver & transmitter listed above since there is a lot of videos on how to build it and it just went in stock. Or are the parts above pretty similar to the ones used in his video? Idk.

Transmitter is great. That is fine. I would not get the L9R receiver. That is way too big for a quad. It’s meant for fixed wings I’m guessing.

Here’s what you want:
FrSky R-XSR Ultra Mini Redundancy Full Telemetry Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074QHJRBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oho3CbNDC67EQ

Or for the same amount of range (just no telemetry):
FrSky XM Plus Mini Receiver up to 16CH ONLY 1.6g Full Range Fit For Micro Drone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5INCBH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Yio3Cb8ANCDCF

Amazon

iFlight 150mm 2.4G Receiver Antenna Generation 4 RF113 (smaller) IPEX Port for Latest FrSky X4R-SB Receiver and Remote Controller (pack of 20pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGD445X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BXl0Cb7P08X5Q

Try this one. The white controller for $71 is the same controller.

https://www.amazon.com/FlySky-FS-i6-M2-2-4GHz-6-Channel-Transmitter/dp/B00PF160IK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501198822&sr=8-1&keywords=remote+controller+flysky

You might be cutting it close. Here's a 6 channel tx and rx for 52$: flysky i6 Then a motor and ESC will probably run you another 30-40$. But youll also need servos (~10$) , battery connectors, batteries, charger, etc. If you already have any of those you very well might be ok.

Another option is to get a off-the-shelf quad like a Syma or some such, that'll give him something to start with that isn't too bad, under or around the $100 mark.

I've got a Syma X5SW, had some great fun with that for awhile, but now it's on my bench with a SPRacingF3 Deluxe wired up and a flysky-compatible tx/rx setup. The brushed motor driver board is $5 off RTFQuads, controller board $30 on Amazon, and the tx/rx combo is about $50 as stated earlier in the thread.


My current build parts:

https://www.amazon.com/Cheerwing-X5SW-V3-Explorers2-Headless-Quadcopter/dp/B011JV9HA2/ - base quad

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E58V09W/ - FC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0P8Q8U/ - tx/rx

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LW57OUM/ - 5v boost convertor, 2pack because they were cheap

http://www.readytoflyquads.com/brushed-motor-driver - The Syma motors wire into this, this wires to FC channel outputs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M75FQIO/ - tiny PPM/iBus-capable receiver because the stock one in the tx/rx bundle is unweildy


It's all wired up on my bench now and running, original motors and all.

Overall it comes out about $150-ish, but you get something to start with to understand how it flies, and then you have all the pieces so you can take it apart and upgrade it. When you want to go bigger, you have the core parts already all paired up and ready to go, just need to tweak the FC for the new platform.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9E33XA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FJM6ybRDZN741

This is the camera that most people are putting on tiny whoops(really small drones). I've used this exact one, and it works pretty good. It will only give you about 50 ft of range though.


If you are looking for more range, you will have the buy a camera and a transmitter, such as these two:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N948FF7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xMM6ybVKT9E49

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6GPYS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wNM6ybJQT95DW


EDIT: you would also need a recover for the video.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H36AIGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6PM6ybWV3Y0EJ

This puts out RCA to a monitor of your choice

Maybe these?

> I'm more then likely going to total it

With that attitude I would again go with a Hubsan/Syma to start. If you really want to dive in as cheap as possible there is tons of kits on Ebay/Amazon. I started with a kit I found on Ebay, now I am slowly upgrading everything. I now wish I picked all my parts instead, but if your itching to dive in then below is a list.

Prime Shipping - Kit, Battery, Remote, Charger. Still requires soldering iron, velcro, zip ties, heatshrink, double sided tape, allen keys, and a couple minor things.

I think i've seen the rxsr before, but I was thinking of probably going with the xm plus here since the space is very limited in my build and I don't like the extra height that the cable connector adds (I'm fine with just doing a direct solder).

you'll need to upgrade the ESC because thats only rated for the stock 20T motor. the amp is a good choice but i think i would look into some cheap brushless systems like others said. dont forget you'll also need a new Tx/Rx combo. the Flyskk GT2E is a good start:
https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-GT2E-2-4ghz-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B00VE3QC7C

What is a wind surfer exactly ?

I got this guy SKYREAT Copper Parabolic Antenna Range Booster for DJI Phantom 3 Standard Controller Transmitter Signal Extend https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DC0ZCN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BIZsybR6S042P and it seems to be working well

here

If you want a cheap cheap one, it would be smarter to just buy this one off amazon, compared to making one.

https://www.amazon.com/SKYREAT-Parabolic-Standard-Controller-Transmitter/dp/B01DC0ZCN4/ref=pd_sim_421_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DC0ZCN4&pd_rd_r=0B343NANQF31Y1AGTAAA&pd_rd_w=TFjiy&pd_rd_wg=lBjVC&psc=1&refRID=0B343NANQF31Y1AGTAAA

What do you think of this:

FPV Camera:
http://www.amazon.com/Eachine-700TVL-System-Degree-Transmission/dp/B00WJFKXS8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1454108163&sr=8-2&keywords=Fpv+camera

Googles:
http://www.amazon.com/Quanum-DIY-FPV-Goggle-Monitor/dp/B00YPZ9N4A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454108378&sr=8-1&keywords=Quanum+DIY+FPV

Battery for googles?: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__74310__Quanum_FPV_Headset_Battery_7_4V_1500mAh_3C.html

How would I power the camera? Something small for a Syma xs5w or a Syma x8c

This is the FlySky one on Amazon for only 4 bucks more with free shipping.

I personally don't have very large hands and really enjoy mine. I have both the FS-i6 (which is the same as the tgy-i6) and the 9x and I always want to fly with the i6.

It has a solid build quality and can use PPM (only one cable from the rx to fc for less clutter) if you buy this Rx to use with it.

I personally think that the i6 is a really great radio. That being said however, it seems like everyone else likes the 9x, so you may just want to get that.

If you do happen to get the i6 and have some questions I would totally be willing to help out if I can! Cheers.

You're spot on for the propeller measurements. One thing to keep in mind is almost everyone runs 5" props, so you'll have a lot more options if you build based around that. The only benefit you can find from 6" is if are intentionally trying to do efficient flying for more time, otherwise you won't really see much of a difference.
The additional benefit of smaller props is that you can go a bit smaller on your build, which means less force across the frame when you land and less breaking. I find that 4mm arms are the sweet spot for durability, 3mm is just a little bit low for anything above 150mm. Removable arms are even better while learning, so you don't have to replace the entire frame if one breaks.

I have normal Prime, but not sure if the stuff that shows as Prime eligible for me is the same as the one-day eligible stuff for you. That being said, if I had to build a drone from Amazon right now, I'd go with:

Frame 1 or 2 (actually have this one from a previous build)
ESCs (I prefer separate ESCs rather than 4-in-1 or all-in-1 in case anything breaks)
Flight controller
PDB
Props 1 or 2 depending on what your motors can handle, should be able to do either based on that kv and measurement
Receiver (assuming you get the QX7)
Video transmitter
Camera
Batteries
Charger
Balance board for charging multiple batteries

Left out motors since it sounds like you have some in mind. This kind of build will have plenty of power, probably hover at around 30% throttle if I had to guess, so just keep that in mind. You can tone it down manually by getting some less aggressive propellers, in the flight controller max throttle, or on your transmitter max throttle, but I recommend just getting used to it. Also mess around in simulators, there weren't any when I started out and I would have probably saved a few hundred in parts if they were (though parts back then were like 8x the cost they are today).

Also, can you tell if this FrSky receiver will work? It says it has RSSI...
Receiver

EDIT!: I think im confused, is a telemetry receiver needed seperately from a XM receiver? Can I just use the one linked above and skip the one you recommended?

Emax Baby Hawk (amazon doesn't sell the BNF version):
https://www.emaxmodel.com/babyhawk-85mm-brushless-drone-bnf.html

Taranis Q X7:
https://www.amazon.com/Frsky-Taranis-Transmitter-Racing-Drones/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504715829&sr=8-1&keywords=taranis+qx7

Eachine VR-007 Pro:
https://www.amazon.com/EACHINE-Goggles-Headset-Glasses-1600mAh/dp/B072M8FL3Z/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1504715875&sr=1-2&keywords=eachine+vr+007

These are far from the best components you can buy, but for the money they're hard to beat. Also, I believe the Babyhawk comes with 1 battery. You'll definitely want a few more, as well as a charger.

Yea, they are the [Spektrum Quad Racing with Diversity](https://www.amazon.com/Spektrum-DSMX-Quad-Receiver-Diversity/dp/B01ABV7K5A "25$") or if you want it with telemetry. Tell me again how much that first one is.

Don't wear out the USB port on your transmitter, get one of these.

Walkera Devo 7e. Not the best, but with the deviation open source firmware and a few hardware modules, that one radio can operate on over a dozen protocols. You can easily increase the transmitting range 10x with a bit of soldering. I've been using it on my quads for 5 months now, hasn't let me down.

For 55$ nope :D cheap short antennas exist for example. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071LMRK36?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I know that's not what you were looking at but just fyi

you should maybe buy one from amazon like This one and then if its not the problem then just return it

Here is the vtx im currently using on 3s.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WQZNZ54/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462084772&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=eachine+200mw&dpPl=1&dpID=31Sqdm4AjyL&ref=plSrch#

Here is the mobile version of your link

How to you put it in usb mode? I am using the same usb cable I use to connect the drone to Betaflight but no results.

Do you think that this usb receiver is compatible with my controller? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD6ZLW7/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AK3V5KK2JCVKS&psc=1

Glad you're responding so quick. X4RSB

Thank you again!

Build

Frame: Crazepony 70mm

FC: FuriousFPV RaceWhoop

ESC: 2x 2 in 1 10A ESC 2-3S BLHELI-S Dshot

Motors: 1104 7500kV

RX: FrSky XM+

Camera: Wolfwhoop 600TVL 25mW

OSD: Micro Minimosd

Batteries: Nano-tech 2s 300mAh 35C

63g AUW.

The battery voltage sags about 0.7v under load since I have nano-tech packs that only ave a small balance lead with long 22awg wires. I hope to get some new batteries with an actual discharge port. As you can see when I disarm it goes back to 3.5v/cell.

Thanks! I can switch over to AKK switchable VTX: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N948FF7/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_3_w
And grab a 5dBi antenna as well. Hadn't heard about this one though, and frankly too many out there not sure which to pick up! Did you have any vtx to recommend?

I followed this video to a T.

• [Frame LHI 220-RX] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID4LNE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [PDB Matek XT60] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID4LNE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [Motors DLFPV DX2205 2300KV] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8RYTOQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [Props DalProp 5045 V2] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LY4H59Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [FC Naze32 Rev6] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CU4SJKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [Camera Real ACC 600TVL] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018DW8X9Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [Receiver FrSky XM+] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5INCBH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [VTX Wolfwhoop T86P] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XTNSBDX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [ESC Racestar RS20Ax4] (https://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-RS20Ax4-20A-4-in-1-Blheli_S-Opto-ESC-2-4S-Support-Oneshot42-Multishot-for-FPV-Racer-p-1068210.html?utm_source=Youtube&utm_medium=cussku&utm_campaign=5635792_1068210&utm_content=1081&p=CG24181822629201506N)

It's the older style pdb. The motors aren't running at the time is the photo. I've slowly been removing more and more of the electronics from the frame during test. At this time only the ESCs are still attached and the signal cables are completely opposite the signal wires. Did you ever clear this up?

I've tried a TS5823 and one of these with no luck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N948FF7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501840317&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=akk+vtx

I have another quad with a cheap pdb and fc and vtx that doesn't have these issues.

Thanks for your detailed response. Yes, it is an older style receiver, which has 6, 3 pin channels for each channel, but in addition has cPPM support. However this support happens to fall on the battery/bind channel. I believe your explanation that the resistance between the ground and signal wire is initially too low. When the quad powers on, the near open circuit between them is interpreted by the receiver as a bind command. However, once this occurs the receiver communicates with the FC just fine, and I was able to get all my channel endpoints satisfactorily configured. I will be able to just deal with the binding issue and take it up for the maiden, but ultimately I think I need to update my receiver to fix the problem. I am looking at a Spektrum satellite receiver, which has the added bonus of being significantly lighter and smaller than my relic of an RX. Hopefully this will solve the issue once and for all! Again, I appreciate you taking the time!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABV7K5A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

You can use almost any Male RP-SMA antenna that claims to work with the frequencies that matter to you. This is usally means that it claims to work in the 2.4 and 5 GHz range.

The almost is due to the close proximity of the two connectors. They will not be able to accommodate antennas with larger connectors.

These small and cheap ones work, but might not give the full range.

I bought this range extender on Amazon for less than $20

It has performed very well over the last few months! The extender significantly increased my maximum range. It also has massively decreased the amount of "Strong Interference Detected" warnings that I receive when the phantom is well within its range. The build quality is good and it is easy to put back on to the antenna before every flight. Best accessory I bought for my Phantom 3 Standard.

If you're flying near maximum range, be very aware of which direction your controller is pointing. Turning the controller can cause it to immediately lose signal.

Looks like I was a bit wrong, the fpv transmitter has 40 channels, and the kylin FPV goggles have 64ch, this should be even more likely right?

I had a similar experience when using an Orange RX satellite receiver. I switched to FrSky and have never looked back. The difference was night and day, with orders of magnitude improvement. I've heard that Lemons are ever so slightly better than Oranges, but not by much. I don't know what it is specifically that they're doing wrong with the Orange RX stuff, but they shouldn't be selling them.

When life hands you Lemons, switch to FrSky.

(FYI, this is the receiver that I switched to using. You can also get a transmitter module to convert most transmitters to use the FrSky protocol.)

Rather than using IR, I recommend spending a little more and getting a proper RC transmitter & receiver.

The IR remote would only give you on/off controls, which would be a pain for driving something around. You'll want precise throttle and steering, and that's what a proper Tx/Rx will give you (not to mention you'll get much longer range than IR, for what it's worth).

Amazon has a 2-channel Tx/Rx combo available here, though I highly recommend its big brother the FS-GT3B which has 3 channels so you can do a bit more with it (also has a fancy LCD display). Unfortunately they don't have any at a reasonable price on Amazon right now (I got mine for $25 about 18 months ago).