(Part 2) Best rca cables according to redditors
We found 2,982 Reddit comments discussing the best rca cables. We ranked the 584 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
There are ways to do it. I don't know if your using an xbox or a ps3, but either way if you are using the red/white/yellow analog connectors, just slap one of these onto the console's output and then plug in your headphones. that should work for anything using the three red/white/yellow hookups.
However, if your Xbox360 is plugged in via HDMI, you will instead need one of these which plugs in to the component port on the back, and one of these to make it work with the headphones. Note that the xbox adapter comes with an optical port which you will use should you upgrade to high-quality headphones ;)
With this setup you will get audio out to headphones. To get chat in the headphones, go to the preferences, select chat, and output to speakers.
Note that this system doesn't allow for a microphone. You can go ahead and leave the microsoft headset around your neck, or you could get the ever-popular zalman clip-on and this adapter to plug it in to your controller.
They really make this harder than it ought to be :/
Also consider audio extension cables of varying lengths because you'll notice that the adapter cables are not very long.
The easiest way to hook up your favorite headphones is to use an Astro Mixamp. It will include all the needed cables and included a swanky volume knob and a balance knob to adjust game sound and voice levels. Much more expensive, though! At the price for the mixamp, you may as well just buy the whole system which includes a headset as well.
I would link stuff for PS3 using an hdmi cable as well to make an all-inclusive guide, but I simply don't own a PS3 so I can't be certain.
The PS4 still has optical audio output, so if your headset supports that, you can connect it with that.
I recommend getting something like this, which will convert optical to red/white RCA cables.
A clumsier option would be to plug this cable into your controller.
Yes. One is ground and one is the spdif signal. You can make your own cable by getting a 2 wire pc cable (can be anything, like an old power button out of a case) and an rca cable. Cut them both in half and solder the wires together. You can also buy ones but you may have to move pins around the connector as they used to be 4 pin
edit: you can buy this
https://www.amazon.com/SPDIF-RCA-Plate-Cable-Bracket/dp/B0035J9Z7W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487860812&sr=8-4&keywords=S%2FPDIF+OUT
and just use the 2 wires that are next to each other on the motherboard connector. Just the RCA style spdif will work.
Here's how it would work:
If you want to use Component (YPbPr), get an adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Triple-Composite-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00CIC9KW2/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1511910039&sr=8-12&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca+component
Edit: This one might work too and has the correct color coding:
https://www.amazon.com/Highfine-Replacement-Component-Adapter-BN39-01154C/dp/B01HUN8ZEW/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2JDWBZ27ZJNY225DVANP
The first one is for composite and stereo audio, but you can use it for YPbPr. I'm not sure what connectors would go where, but I'm pretty sure the green RCA (Y for Luma) from the PS2 would hook up onto the yellow RCA on the adapter. The others I have no idea, just swap until the image looks right. For audio, use the Lt/Rt RCA ones next to the composite input on your TV.
If you want to use a component to HDMI scaler, I would also make sure your TV supports 480i over HDMI, as some do not. If you want to do PS1 games, make sure your TV and scaler support 240p over HDMI. HDMI scalers usually add some noise to the image quality or add other degradation. It's best to use the scaler built into the television.
I highly recommend hooking up with a component breakout. An external HDMI scaler would work, too and wouldn't be much worse.
Get something like this and hook it up to your controller.
Cooper
In seriousness:
BlueJeans is good if you value performance and well made, they aren’t nice looking though, very industrial. I would be weary of any power cords that aren’t UL Listed or similar.
I’ve gotten some amazing RCA connectors off eBay for <$10 (sold out of 1m, here’s 3m), the turbine-style connector actually look like gold, unlike these which I also own, they look like plain brass in real life.
I use GearIT white-braided speaker cables, not amazing build-quality, but for <$50 I’m satisfied. I’m surprised that even for <$150/pair most companies are using plain looking banana plugs (example: 1, 2, and 3). I want some WBT knock-offs, like these.
There are some fancy looking optical cables for cheap, like so.
You're not going to find anything smaller with that many inputs at that price that isn't junk. That amp is only $100 because it's on clearance since they just released an updated version for $250.
An alternative is just buying some y-splitters and only running one thing at a time.
You just need one of these. Super simple. And yes, the DAC in a macbook pro tends to be pretty reliable. I wouldn't listen to the people telling you to get a separate box just because.
možda da ovim kabelom spoji rca na gramofon a drugi dio u Scarlett ulaz gdje je gitara i namjestiti na Line.
You could either plug the headphones into the television if it has a headphone port. Or you could use the VGA cable from your PS3 and leave out the yellow plug. So something like:
PS3 analog output > RCA female to 3.5mm cable > FiiO E5 > Audio-Technica ATH-M50
The E5 can be had for around $20. The adapter cables are very cheap online, and about $5-10 at Radioshack if you wanna buy local.
Oh yes, make sure to set your PS3 to do multi audio out, so it sends audio to all connections.
Your TV might have RCA Output in which case you can use a RCA male to 3.5mm male > FiiO E5 > ATH-M50
If you do have RCA out you could try just using This but the sound may be a bit low in volume because the outs on a TV are generally amped with a power amp or home receiver. Hence the recommended FiiO E5.
This is happening because the 3.5mm aux jack on the back of the unit is actually a four-pin input that supports audio and video using a cable like this.
When I had my old Pioneer 4600, which was very similar, I recall going to the Video Signal Settings for the AUX input and changing it to OFF or DISABLED which then treats the aux input as audio only, and not subjecting it to the video in motion restrictions. I don't remember if that worked or not, since I mainly used a USB flash drive or Bluetooth streaming off my phone for audio playback.
FYI The AV input is for the RCA jacks.
my guess would be this and this.
Please don't get that massive eyesore lol. No offense to their suggestion, it will work, but its just damn ugly.
Here's what I did for my 2008:
In your center console you should have an RCA input. Get a short rca to 3.5 y-cable
Pick up a simple Bluetooth receiver like this one
Power the receiver with a USB car charger
All of these hide easily in your center console. Just turn on the BT receiver when you want music, hit AUX on your stereo, then play your music. The quality of these new little receivers is, surprisingly, just as good as an AUX cable.
This might work for you
www.amazon.com/Hosa-TRS-202-Meter-Insert-Cable/dp/B000068O1K
Your tv has an RCA audio output, so what you need to do is:
PS4 > TV via HDMI
TV (RCA Audio Out) > Soundbar (3.5mm)
You’ll need a cable like the one in the link below to go between your tv and sound bar. Should be able to find that at any old Walmart or similar store.
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B0002KR1OG
Yes!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS
Set the ps3 to composite for audio only.
I think other people have similar answers but this is the cable you need.
Source: This is my set up. (Actually with a hdmi to dvi also).
edit: Side note, if you can't get an AUX to work for you, you could also plug it directly into your PC in the line in channel (providing you have one, most tower PCs do that I've seen), it would mean you have to have your PC on to listen to your ps3 but your headphones would work and you'd have your PC sound also.
Well what I do is run a 3.5mm lead from the headphone jack on my TV to the line-in port on my PC. That way all the sound goes through the PC... but it looks like your PC doesn't have a line-in which is a problem. You'd need to buy a sound card. Also, it requires your PC to be on all the time, which is OK for me but might not suit you.
EDIT: The only other solution I found is to use a switcher like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-128-234-3-Way-Input-Expander/dp/B000KVODHA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=undefined&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=switcher+aux
You'd also need two of these leads: http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS/ref=pd_bxgy_ce_img_z
You already have everything you need other than a stereo RCA cable and you might already have that laying around. Run the cable from the audio outputs on the back of the TV to the inputs on the back of your receiver, select that input on the receiver, and you're good to go.
You'll also need to go into the TV menu and turn off the internal speakers on the TV.
I've got you covered for about $35, possibly cheaper depending on whether or not your turntable already has a pre-amp built in.
What you need:
Here's how it works:
Now all you have to do is press a button to change inputs. And like I said earlier, if your turntable already has a pre-amp built in, or you already own a pre-amp or receiver, then you can knock $15 off the price and have everything you need for under $20. Possibly right now if you head to a WalMart or something.
Edit: The bonus about this method is you keep the signal analog the whole way through. Also, as mentioned by /u/apapousek, a two channel system is the absolute best audio upgrade you can make at the moment.
Another vote for upgrading your receiver and just running audio over HDMI.
However, if you need SPDIF in the interim (I've been there), a lot of boards out there have a SPDIF IO header. Just pick up a bracket like this and be done with it.
If you're using a SFF case, you may have to either find a low-profile bracket, create your own, or get creative with mounting the plugs, but it's probably going to be far easier than finding a board with built-in SPDIF out.
It's actually easy and cheap - what you need is a RCA-to-1/8" adapter cable. The 1/8" end goes into the headphone jack on your iPod/CD player, and the 2 RCA connectors at the other end go into the two RCA input jacks on the receiver. In your case, you could plug them into the "Aux" inputs, next to the Phono input.
(Just so you know, record players need to use a dedicated Phono input, even though the connection plugs look the same as regular RCA ones)
Here's a cable you could use: http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YDUZ22/
You're missing one of these (for RCA): https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Triple-Composite-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00CIC9KW2/ref=pd_lpo_23_bs_lp_t_2
or this (for component): https://www.amazon.com/LG-Component-Audio-Video-Adapter/dp/B01EQ7TYNQ
Thanks. So in theory, all I need is the adapter that you linked, and possibly another connector (RCA to RCA?) to go with the PS2's wires right?
Or instead of buying both of those, could I just get this which is a male mini AV to 3 RGA connectors?
Edit: Forgot to say that I'm using the RCA cables for the PS2. Though I do have component as well last time I checked.
You can use the micro-USB cable that came with the Modi 3 to connect directly to the computer. It can pull both power and data over the same cable in most cases. Any micro-USB cable from, say, an old phone charger will work in a pinch if you want to connect both the USB data and the USB power ports. Then you just run RCA cables from the Modi to the Magni.
Cheapest solution to help mitigate hum is getting some shielded cables (if you haven't already) to connect between your components.
Something like these
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI89IQS?psc=1
Can help in a pinch. Make sure you have shielded cables for each link.
Use digital cables for best signal
A receiver with a sub out would work for its RCA outputs and source selection, but you would pay for and not end up using the amp in it. Maybe if you found super cheap/free used one, but it’s not worth spending money for a new one.
A much cheaper and smaller solution would be a simple RCA switch like this. You’d still have to split the output signal to monitors and sub with something like these. Then put one of the splitters into the sub input (it only has a single RCA) so you are picking up stereo input to the sub.
DDJ 1000 Master 2 is RCA. Get an RCA to 3.5mm adapter and plug your speakers into Master out 2.
HDMI converter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TOBFSTE/
Composite to 3.5mm:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015J4OKZW/
personally I would get a 35mm to RCA cable like this one and plug it into the line in at the back of your deck. No need for separate mic headphone jacks. But yes, your iphone should work great for this purpose!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PZ7QO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm using this now and it is actually very nice quality and works perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1-Male-2-Male-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8N8K/ref=sxin_3_pb?keywords=subwoofer%2Bcable&amp;pd_rd_i=B01D5H8O9S&amp;pd_rd_r=fac46cfa-31e6-474b-8afb-fd57cf3a20dd&amp;pd_rd_w=Zz7W8&amp;pd_rd_wg=FWps6&amp;pf_rd_p=9ef0c97a-254b-445c-822b-c948e2d94ddd&amp;pf_rd_r=PZZDQE5Z6KPZD8VV4FSS&amp;qid=1562175401&amp;s=electronics&amp;th=1
No worries it can actually be more complicated than it originally seems. What you need is dual RCA to dual TRS: https://www.amazon.com/TNP-Premium-Dual-Audio-Cable/dp/B01CNMSQPS/
MAKE SURE THAT YOU ARE GETTING DUAL (MONO) TRS
probably more than 66% of the cables you search for if you search for "RCA to TRS" are going to be dual RCA to a single (Stereo) TRS like this one. Notice it only has one 1/4" connector. This is a far more common setup but the cable you need, dual mono TRS, not a single stereo TRS.
Those TRS cables will plug into the larger center hole of the XLR connectors on the bottom of your H4N.
You have the potential for noise. I've used it in a pinch, but long term, not so much.
Have you thought about getting a small mixer to handle the signal and the levels? Using a mixer would let you control the level of your sub separately. Depending on your budget, you can easily make something work.
mixer: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502931763&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=audio+mixer
Cables for mixer to JBL: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-STX-110M-XLR3M-Balanced-Interconnect/dp/B000068NYY/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502931800&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=trs+to+xlr
"FX" output to sub: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-TRS-202-inch-Insert-Cable/dp/B000068O1K/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502931836&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=trs+to+rca
Headphone out to RCA will work fine, just get the right cable, 1/4" TRS to Dual RCA, 2 Meters.
The other option is a Speaker to RCA Converter.
Or some low budget speaker options: Dayton Audio B652 $30, Polk Audio R150 $45, Dayton B652-AIR with AMT Tweeter $50 or look for some better used bookshelf speakers for $50 or less.
Yes! You can use this RCA to 3.5mm adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B0002KR1OG
For non-simultaneous playback:
Here's what you could do:
Buy one 3.5mm Stereo Male to Two RCA Male Splitter Cable, and one 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch. Also get a 3-Way Audio Video AV RCA Switch Selector Box Splitter. That all together is $9.82 US.
Connect the xbox to your TV as normal. Use the RCA cable included with the splitter to connect your TV's audio output to the Splitter's Input 1. You don't need to connect the yellow video connection on that cable. Then use a male 3.5mm Stereo to RCA cord to connect your laptop/iphone's headphone jack to the Splitter's Input 2. Plug the 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch cable into the Splitter's Output, and connect your headphones to the 3.5mm female end. You should then easily be able to switch between ipod/laptop and xbox/tv sound feeding to your headphones by adjusting the splitter's output switch. This is a very basic setup, but should achieve what you're going for as long as you didn't want the two inputs playing simultaneously.
For simultaneous playback:
Here's what you could do (I admit this is probably a bit of a wrap around way of doing it, but it was fun to come up with):
Buy:
Two Behringer MICROMIX MX400 4-Channel Mixer, one 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2 RCA Male Cable, one Male RCA to male RCA cable, one male RCA to female 3.5mm cable, six 3.5mm to 2RCA female adapter, and six 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch stereo jack adapters. This setup without shipping and handling costs $75.55 US.
This thing only outputs in mono though, so it doesn't benefit your headphones greatly (only one side will play sound). This is why we're gonna get two of them though, and this is the fun part. Check out this picture: http://i.imgur.com/UPMX5j2.png. It has the steps included with a crude illustration. The benefit of this setup is that you can have the ipod/laptop coming in at a different volume than the tv/xbox. Also has space for two more inputs if your ever have more you want to plug in (or to allow a laptop and ipod to be plugged in at the same time).
I... I think that setup would work.
Yes. An adapter/cable like this should do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B0002KR1OG
You'll need speaker wire of some sort, along with a long enough 3.5mm to RCA cable to send signal from your computer to your amp.
Most stereo 3.5mm jack to RCA Phono cables are easily split. You just pull them apart. They're only joined together by a thin part of the rubber. I'm pretty sure it's what they're designed for as I've been doing that for as long as I remember: same for speaker cable.
Get a three metre one to give you some slack. Amazon has them cheap or you can go cheaper if you just want to try it.
You need a 3.5mm to RCA cable (looks like http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Jack-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS)
Work out how much speaker cable you need and buy that (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fisual-Install-Profile-Speaker-Cable/dp/B002RQHH4M)
Then you can either spend a few dollerydoos on 4x banana plugs (http://www.amazon.co.uk/SODIAL-Plated-Banana-Speaker-Connectors/dp/B00K67XWMK) or insert the cable into the little holes on the speaker inputs and screw them down (depends on the speaker)
That makes sense, nothing will be detected because that USB plug will only power the headset.
With the Red and White connectors you will need something like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS
That will take the Audio out of your PC and into the headset.
Taking a shot in the dark here. Your monitor will accept HDMI input, but monitor audio is typically handled through a separate 3.5mm analog jack.
This freeview box is £22.99 and has HDMI and RCA outputs.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Freeview-Terrestrial-Switchover-Converter-REPLACEMENT-SILVER/dp/B00OW6V386/
It's possible that the box will allow you to split the audio signal from the video signal, but I can't be certain. You could use one of these cables to convert the RCA audio output to the necessary 3.5mm input on your monitor.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS/
You could try asking the seller on Amazon. They seem to be answering technical questions for people. Just ask "Can I use HDMI for video and RCA for audio?"
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Freeview-Terrestrial-Switchover-Converter-REPLACEMENT/forum/Fx1GVWK37QDQA7T/-/1/ref=cm_cd_dp_aar_ql?_encoding=UTF8&amp;asin=B00OW6V386&amp;cdSort=best
If you have a 3.5mm audio out on your tv/monitor then you can use a standard 3.5mm to rca cable adapter. No need for a special adapter box.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382278517&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=3.5mm+to+rca
I use the same type of cable to hook my tv up to my sound system.
You need any RCA cable that has a red + white plug on both ends. Stereo RCA cable. When someone says "RCA Cable" this is what they are talking about. here is one example - it is one of the most common cables, available at any stereo/music/electronics store or website.
You have identical red/white plugs on your controller and speakers, I guess I don't see where the confusion is.
Wait, wait. You say MOSTLY because youd like to use bluetooth isntead of CDs?
You can buy a bluetooth adapter and cable for $30. You plug this into the AUX connection on the back of your old Panasonic and its not bluetooth! I have a receiver from 1991 in my garage doing the same thing...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IQBSW28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40465-Value-Audio/dp/B0019MCI94/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504625718&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=rca+to+rca
Looking at pictures online, looks like you can just plug a different one in. This is much cheaper than trying to do the repair or modify the cable yourself.
I had this problem for a while with my HD60 before figuring out what to do. The easiest workaround is just plugging your headset directly into your TV instead of the PS4. If your TV has a USB port and that'll work with your headset, you can try that. Otherwise, you'll have to use a cable like this one and plug that into the AV outputs on your TV and then plug the headset into the other end. It's only $2.
The inherent problem with the whole thing is that when you plug a headset in, the audio isn't getting to your computer because it's going to the headset instead. If you plug a headset into the TV instead of the PS4, then it should be fed into your computer and you'll still be able to hear through it the headset. It worked for me, so I hope this works for you too. Best of luck with figuring it out.
i would use something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B003O509PY/
converts the PS4 output to analog.
then this, to plug into the blue analog line in on your pc:
http://www.amazon.com/Dynex-Mini-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B0032JAG4G/
One of these cables is what I use to connect my Mac Mini to my receiver. My Mac only has a headphone jack and it works pretty good.
There's lots of options but I usually just buy these cables from the dollar store: https://www.amazon.com/Dynex-Mini-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B0032JAG4G and https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-6-35mm-3-Conductor-Headphone-Adapter/dp/B01GVSD3US
Ahh - my mistake. You need an ADC.
https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B01HGHNCMW
And to make the RCA you would use this:
https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Mini-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B0032JAG4G
To connect your line out to the ADC. Though, those cables are a dime a dozen at garage sales, I have about 20 of them kicking around because Im old XD
Kid you not I was just reading the above forum post 5 minutes ago. I just finished buying the wires so here are links to the wires needed.
[CTIA Y-Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D6NPH88/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A6W0O8DQ2720N)
[Headset Splitter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DOWH6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=AHV9ORYOUKPWW)
[Stereo Y-Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BB4GUC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
[RCA Stereo Audio Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032JAG4G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=AEKEXTXL2B213)
I also purchased a replacement headset wire, if you are interested in this as well here is the [link] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FJEGXLW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1SHTSJSJQA89P)
I would make sure to get an optical breakout for the motherboard. This opens way more DAC options, and IMO it's way better to buy a DAC that will work with more devices than one that just goes via USB.
The MSI pins are messy but like this. I can't find somewhere selling that exact adapter though, but the digital audio is the only important part anyways.
https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX8020-TX-8020-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00EE18O7W/
+
https://www.amazon.com/Wharfedale-Diamond-220-Black/dp/B00OHIZQ50
+
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/
+
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YDUZ22/
You'll also need stands so that the speakers' tweeters are at your ear's level. If the accessories going over your budget make the whole thing too expensive, you can get some slightly cheaper speakers such as these: https://www.amazon.com/Debut-Bookshelf-Speakers-Andrew-Jones/dp/B014GSEQ06/
The Edifier uses a 3.5mm sub out. So you'd most likely need a 3.5mm TRS (stereo) to dual RCA male, in whatever length you need.
The examples below are all USA sourced, in USD...
Cable example:
Subwoofer examples (you can use practically anything, depending on how loud you want your bass):
12" Dayton Audio (can buy it from Amazon via parts-express or directly for the same money) - $149
10" Dayton Audio (can buy it from Amazon via parts-express or directly for the same money) - $120
Monoprice makes a nice smaller 8" sub if you don't have a lot of space - ON SALE $89 DIRECT from Monoprice (sale not on Amazon, unfortunately)
That game compelled me to get this: https://imgur.com/gallery/MbBkK
I never even had a steering wheel before this. After getting the seat, steering wheel, pedals, and shifter, I got the amp and two bass shakers to make the seat vibrate. The wheel vibrates a lot on its own. My brain barely realizes it's not in a car. Of course, it's not feeling any inertia because the seat doesn't move. I'm not motivated enough to buy something that expensive.
Update: Here's everything I got in addition to speaker wire:
https://www.parts-express.com/2-aura-pro-bass-shakers-with-dayton-audio-sa100-bundle--300-9002
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YDUZ22/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CGVG0N6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1B9HG6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have that 3.5mm plug going into the green output on my sound card. The other ends go into the amp like in the pic. The back of the amp has red and black cables. One goes to one shaker, and the other goes to the other shaker (match the colors). Then, connect the bass shakers with one speaker wire from the ends that don't have wires already (this is connecting them in series). In the Steam VR menu, you have to mirror your audio to these to get them to shake in VR. I have to mirror to something called "Speakers" to get them to work. I find that I have to turn the amp up high to get the amount of vibration I want, so I'm not sure if there's something I'm doing wrong. Some people say they don't need it up high.
It sounds like you need one of these?
RCA Audio Piggyback Cable
Or these?
RCA Y Splitter Adapter
Then go with one of these.
RCA to 3.5mm female
You will need amplified headphones also. You can power the headphone from the usb on the TV or use a USB wall block.
If this won't work for you it should get into the right area to search for something along these lines.
Just get some RCA Splitters like that and you can run any sub with left and right in.
I believe you want something like one of these instead, the jack is 3 pin which means it does stereo audio and video.
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Female-Composite-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B00CIC9KW2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_7?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1SWZF2MMGFTH3Q1Q8CKC
or
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Video-3-5mm-Composite-Camcorders/dp/B007ZAAEFE/ref=pd_sim_e_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1T7EXZ3EGPN157NK3ZY4
Would plugging a regular composite cable into this do the trick? Or are you trying to get stereo sound out of the headphone jack on the front?
Edit: If you're after stereo sound from the headphone jack here's a shop in the UK that sells them.
What cables are you using to make the connection? The Red/White RCA on the DAC should go to the matching Red/White RCA on the Speaker.
How old and what quality are your current cables, and how long to they have to be to reach?
These are pretty good, and they come in 3ft, 6ft, 10ft, 15ft, 20ft, and 25ft -
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Analogue-Double-Shielded-Amplifiers-Receivers/dp/B00DI89I04/
Make sure both of the Logitech speakers are plugged in correctly and securely.
KabelDirekt RCA Stereo Cable, Cord (3 feet Short, Dual 2 x RCA Male to 2 x RCA Male Audio Cable, Digital & Analogue, Double-Shielded, Pro Series) Supports (Amplifiers, AV Receivers, Hi-Fi) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI89I04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_c06HDbBQ5HVVP
If your source is digital it's important in my experience to keep everything digital up to signal cables: FLAC files -> reader/streamer -> DSP/preamp with digital volume control -> DAC.
Talking about signal cables (if using RCA) it's important to choose a well shielded model. I had hiss and noise issues with standard thin RCA cables, that I solved completely with this model:
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Analogue-Double-Shielded-Amplifiers-Receivers/dp/B00DI89I04/
There is a guy named James Randi who had a contest that will pay US $l,000,000 to any person who demonstrates any psychic, supernatural, or paranormal ability under satisfactory observation. Saying basically if you can prove that your "hi-end" cable "sounds" better that a cheepo then he'll give you a million bucks. It was obviously never won and ended in a lawsuit but still interesting.
I have dozens of cables and an empty wallet. The only difference i've ever heard was in an RCA shoot-out between Belden 1694a coax cable (75ohm), Kable Direct, and this QVS cable I got from Microcenter. The Belden sounded good and had a very dark tone. I ended up using them in my home theater for the long runs through the floorboards. The other two sounded similar but I found the QVS to be a bit more revealing. But in all fairness I think I liked them better because I spent more for the pair. I still use both everyday.
It's easy to get caught up in the hype of hi-fi audio. Save your money.
all of your gear is powered?
Ok, then you're going to need 2 RCA male to male cables (example: http://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-feet-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00DI89I04/ref=lp_597546_1_9?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453783555&amp;sr=1-9) to run from each independent CDJ to the mixer.
Options:
Something like this?
I'm going to assume your GameCube is NTSC and recommend these:
https://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y/
https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-4-Output-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B010EIK6K6/
Won't be 480p, but it'll still be decent. You'll also need a GameCube/N64/SNES S-Video cable and some male-to-male RCA and S-Video cables if you don't have them already.
Depending on what your source's line-out looks like, you'll need to run either this cable(typical for computers) or this cable (for CD players, tape decks and so on) to the amp's input, and some speaker wire from the amp and the speakers. You can then decide if you like the way it sounds, or if you'll need a better sound card or some crap.
Man you have a fairly dysfunctional system in that a lot of the things meant to minimize the setup are broken. With that said. Some options I thought of are:
Option a:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008JYB93G Cheapest DAC you can buy. $16
https://www.amazon.com/VONOTO-Switcher-Toslink-Splitter-Converter/dp/B00PZKA5E6/ for switching between toslinks $14
https://www.amazon.com/IEC-Speaker-Wire-Pair-Males/dp/B003U46G8I/ To connect the powered monitors to the subwoofer, you can use these with the splitters below.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y x 2
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-feet-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00DI89IQS $10 connects from splitters to subwoofer.
That is the low cost version. You can replace the $16 dac with a micca Origin+ ($110 shipped) and then you'd also have a cost-efficient DAC/PReamp with a volume nob, and ability to switch between input sources and output sources easier. Would also increase audio quality by a bit if your input source isn't too good.
Want to add an equalizer, high pass filters, etc? Look into a Mini DSP 2 x 4. That should take care of those needs. But I don't think it would really be all that necessary. Your call, this is the cheapest way imo to do this.
Best of luck.
Assuming the wireless transmitter connects with 3.5mm or RCA, you're going to need to use the SPDIF out with a coaxial audio cable and run that into a DAC like a Fiio D3 and then into the transmitter. The other connections (besides the headphone jack) are all inputs
I found the operation manual for it, I will update this post with the cables as I find them.
EDIT: iPod connector - https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-CDI200-Direct-Cable-Headunits/dp/B000LYAZ4G
EDIT: Antenna - https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Coaxial-Cable-F-Male-Connectors/dp/B003FVJYF8/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491765159&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=antenna+cable if you need it, otherwise your car should have the antenna cable already.
EDIT: DIGITAL OUT, which is Dolby Digital Audio Output - https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Digital-Audio-Coaxial/dp/B00FMZX5RI/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491765375&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=dolby%2Bdigital%2Bcable&amp;th=1
EDIT: IP-BUS, or Aux Input - https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-IP-BUS-3-5-Input-Cable/dp/B002ZYVNH8
EDIT: I couldn't find the EXT cable, but here is the manual if you want to find it yourself. The diagram is on page 7. https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pio/pe/images/portal/cit_11221/417372568AVICD3InstallationManual0221.pdf
EDIT: I wasn't able to find any wired remotes or cables for the Pioneer Avic D3.
Use something like this to hook the computer to the sub. Then use this in the subwoofers left and right rca to split the signal and use another rca cable up the pb42x and use your computer volume as you have been to control it. You would just set the sub up one time and leave it you wont have to mess with the gain as long as you dont mess with the pb42x gain.
If you watch this video at 3:35 it goes over what im talking about sorta
https://youtu.be/kF6s24fpDkk?t=216
I'm having trouble with audio quality when using a spitter. I made this diagram to make it easier to understand. I like to be able to hear music from my turntable and audio from my computer out of the same speakers simultaneously. I used to use the aux input on the front of the speaker for the computer audio but the port produces a lot of interference when something is plugged into it. I had a 3.5 to RCA cable laying around so I figured I could use a splitter on the back of the speaker to input the computer audio and turntable sound (via my preamp). The computer audio is clear if it is plugged into the splitter or directly into the RCA inputs on the back of the speaker. But there is notable quality loss and the sound is much quieter with the turntable in the splitter. It sounds great when directly plugged into the speaker but with the splitter it's awful. Why would the computer sound great either way but not the turntable? Thanks.
What you need to buy:
If you feel frugal
If you feel average
If you feel rich
The device /u/pqu4d linked to has RCA connectors on the back, and comes with an adaptor cable that has a 3.5mm plug on the other end. Your speakers have a 3.5mm plug. You can't plug a plug into a plug, not with out a female/female adapter to go between.
This device is closer to what I think you're looking for. The silver part in the picture unplugs (it is a male/male adaptor) and the male 3.5mm plug from your speakers would plug into it. It has an internal battery and a micro USB jack for recharging it. It's also quite small.
If you did buy the device /u/pqu4d linked to, you would also need to purchase an adaptor like this.
This Amazon Basics Bluetooth Receiver is the same style as the one /u/pqu4d linked to, but it already has the correct style of 3.5mm jack (female) on the back and you could plug your 3.5mm plug directly into it. Both this unit and the one /u/pqu4d linked to use a DC power supply that plugs into the wall.
3.5mm and RCA jack adapter cables are common like this, Target and Walmart have them. You didn't indicate what you are coming out of for audio but it really doesn't matter with adapters. If it is an iPhone type port in your device these still work because the apple extra band in the plug stem doesn't matter for audio like this. second link is an optional cable different style is all.
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r/https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFQNFSS/
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r/https://www.amazon.com/yueton-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B0156F38LG/
Buy something like this and use your controller
https://www.amazon.com/yueton-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B0156F38LG
If you want a wired connection a 3.5mm to RCA into the rear inputs would be fine. Something like this would be fine, just grab the length you need.
If you'd prefer something wireless, grab a Chromecast Audio. It only comes with a short 3.5mm cable so you'll need something like this for the receiver end.
Technically this is purchase advice and should be posted in the purchase advice sticky, so I'll refrain from making a specific recommendation. The easiest solution to switch between your headphones and speakers while improving both over onboard audio is a DAC/Amp combo. If you're running off of motherboard audio right now and just add a DAC you won't be able to listen to things through your headphones. Luckily there are many combo units out there that have both in one box.
What you'll want to look for is a DAC/Amp combo that has both a headphone out AND a fixed/variable line out option. Most will have 2 channel RCA line output, but you would just need one of these to be able to use a regular 3.5mm with the amp input on the back of your speakers. Hope this helps you find what you're looking for!
No. The SM57 and SM58 are the same as far as internals go. You'll have better results upgrading to a reasonable mixer.
This mixer, with a cable like this would be a great upgrade.
Here is a sample with an SM58 and Xenyx 1202. This is a straight recording. No post or enhancements.
USB is how your DAC connects to your computer.
Your DAC will have at least one of the following outputs:
(those three are all electrically compatible and can convert to each other with a socket adapter)
(those two are electrically compatible and can convert to each other with a socket adapter)
(those two are optically compatible and can convert to each other with a socket adapter)
The electrical and optical SPDIF formats can be converted to each other using a cheap $20 adapter from a variety of Chinese sellers.
Choose your DAC based in part on the inputs on your amplifier. The A-616 appears to take 2 channel analog stereo input, so presumably none of the digital options matter to you right now. But you may wish to consider buying a DAC with any digital output in case you add a modern amplifier with digital inputs or a more than two channel setup, or if you plan to do special things wiht gaming.
In your case, a RCA to 3.5 mm cable will let you connect your computer to your amplifier. Your computer may also already have one or more of the digital outputs listed above for future use.
The quality difference between a $1 DAC (USB or on-board) and a $10 DAC is massive. The difference between a $10 DAC and a $100 DAC... not as much. There's a small selection of $0.50-3 DAC chips that are repackaged onto most differently coloured DACs and sound cards ranging in price from $1 to $1000. Some people more than others listen with their eyes, so YMMV.
You could also get an [RCA splitter](Ugreen Gold Plated 3.5mm to 2RCA Audio Auxiliary Stereo Y Splitter Cable (3ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PZ7QO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_V-Cqyb156FM6B) (those are super common and come in any length) plus two of [these](Monoprice 107146 3.5mm Mono Plug to RCA Jack Adaptor, Gold Plated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069MLDUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z.Cqyb8ZMTS9G)!
OP this is technically doing something a little different from what the guy above suggested, but it should work great for your earmuffs, and will be a little more comfy to walk around with than two individual full length cables meeting at your phone.
These, length you need to decide
https://www.amazon.de/AmazonBasics-PBH-20214-Cinch-Audiokabel-Cinch-Stecker-auf/dp/B01D5H8N8K/ref=sr_1_15_sspa?keywords=subwooferkabel&amp;qid=1562883570&amp;s=ce-de&amp;sr=1-15-spons&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.de/AmazonBasics-Toslink-Optisches-Digital-Audiokabel-3-m-Schwarz/dp/B00L3KO3YU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=toslink+kabel&amp;qid=1562883710&amp;s=ce-de&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.de/AmazonBasics-Lautsprecherkabel-mm²-Gauge-100-Transparent/dp/B01D5H8YNO/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=10+gauge+speaker+wire&amp;qid=1562883776&amp;s=ce-de&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;psc=1
This is optional, makes moving them to clean around your desk easier.
https://www.amazon.de/Nakamichi-Bananenstecker-Bananas-vergoldet-schwarz/dp/B00B257Z32/ref=sr_1_6?crid=U9Y500CMGKCI&amp;keywords=banana+plugs&amp;qid=1562883892&amp;s=ce-de&amp;sprefix=banana%2Celectronics%2C169&amp;sr=1-6
Yupp! On the back of the amp there is a plug that says "SW". That's for the subwoofer. The subwoofer has two options. You can use both the red and the white inputs with a cable like this, or, you can just go into the one labeled "LFE" with this cable here. For the speakers, some of this cable will go into the back of the speakers and the amplifier.
Does that help?
Here, save yourself some trouble and get it all in 1 cable, https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1-Male-2-Male-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8N8K/ref=pd_sim_23_28?_encoding=UTF8&amp;refRID=F2Y2YXYJ65YA4Z27C1Q9&amp;th=1
> Hello there, I have a set of KRK Rokit 6s and a U-Phoria UMC22 Audio interface. I would like to get a subwoofer, but I don't know how I would attach it to my current setup.
To use a subwoofer properly, you'll need a crossover (a device that ensures that the sub sees only the bass, and that the KRKs doesn't try to play the same bass.
> Could you also recommend a Subwoofer under $300?
If that's all you have to spend, wait until you can afford a bit more. $300 isn't going to get you any decent form of sub. Here is something at $400 that should get the job done - Disclaimer: I don't have personal experience with this sub, but SVS is a well-known and well-liked brand, and this isn't their cheapest offering, it's just discounted - I believe it normally sells for $679. Here is a review.
It has a crossover built in, so no extra devices required - you'd be connecting your U-Phoria to the subwoofer using 1/4" TS to RCA cable, and RCA cable from the subwoofers High Pass output to the Rokit's RCA inputs.
Sorry if this is a silly question but would upgrading the Modi just allow it to do the same thing as my current modi but also act as a pre amp? Can you recommend a decent set of speaker stands?
I ordered the pre amp so we got that down.
Now I just want to make sure I've got it straight.
I need these cables for the speakers and these cables for the pre amp
One last question is how do I connect the stack to each other as the Modi 2 and Magni 2 only have one spot where you can plug in RCA cables and they run into each other. Would I just unplug the amp when I want to use my speakers?
I use this RCA splitter from the output of my DAC to connect it to 2 amps. If you are just trying to compare DACs both should be recognized by your computer and you would just switch the playback device in Windows.
Hmm I'm kind of confused. I just want to get to the source of the problem. I am using these https://www.amazon.com/Bonayuanda-Female-Splitter-Adapter-12inch/dp/B01J007XGO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492301240&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=3+male+to+6+female . Again, one of the yellow inputs is too small. this isn't the EXACT one i bought, but it is 3 male to 6 female
Is something like this or this what you're looking for? One is single male to dual female, and the other is single female to dual male.
I assume it would work.
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00KBQZC4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468816085&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=HDMI+to+rca
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-TRS-202-inch-Insert-Cable/dp/B000068O1K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468816065&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=RCA+to+TRS
Even simpler would just be buying a blueray drive for $50 for a computer and recording the sound straight.
Hello,
I've decided I want to get the HD 600s to help with mixing in my home studio. I'm using a RME Babyface as my audio interface.
What is a standard set up for pairing a headphone amp (let's say the Schiit Magni 2) to an audio interface like the RME Babyface (see here for connectivity options)?
My 2 analog XLR outs are being used by my studio monitors, but I see I have other analog outs available:
1 x 1/4" TRS for Phones (= Analog Out 3+4)
So would I do RCA -> 1/4" TRS (something like this) -> Babyface?
OP doesn't need the XLR jack for any of this.
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Then it depends on what size connector OP's headphones are. If they are 1/8" (aka 3.5mm) then they can plug right into that Rolls mixer. If not then OP needs a 1/4" TRS female to 1/8" TRS male adapter.
Hmm I'm not really sure I under stand what you mean by output to output. Here's what I have though it's trs. So yes it is stereo
Hosa dual RCA
So the dual RCA outputs on the KP3 go to an 1/4 input on front of the Scarlett.
Edit I did some research and yes these probably won't work. Luckily I didn't actually try it yet lol.
You will need a 3.5mm stereo male to 2 RCA male.
Something like this
The Schiit Magni only has RCA input.
make sure you use the line-out on the back of the E10 to bypass the internal amp before going into the Magni.
Right, sounds like a common case of "I upgraded my amp and speakers and now it sounds worse than stock" caused by factory head unit signal being shaped to make cheap paper speakers sound best. I have P600x4 (by coincidence) and a shitty factory head unit and had the same problem.
If you bypass your head unit and put a signal straight to your amp like with one of these cables you can see if your music sounds different than when coming thru the head unit.
If this is your problem you need a better source or an added EQ/DSP to manage the signal shape.
If I understand things, you should just need this:
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B0002KR1OG/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496882040&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=3.5mm+stereo+to+rca
Depending on your soundcard's connections. Looks like it comes with the cable and speaker wire.
If you're looking at listening to music, might I suggest a 2.1 set? Sub adds a lot.
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B0002KR1OG
Not so sure you can just run Phono out to powered speakers though. Could work, but might not be ideal.
http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B0002KR1OG
> I've managed to get the optical cable to work.
That's a neat trick, because there's no optical port on that card in your link. This is an optical cable. That card has six 3.5mm TRS ports and two RCA ports. S/PDIF can use optical or RCA, and can only carry a compressed 5.1 signal. There's nothing wrong with that, but it has to be supported at both ends - in this case, the driver for your computer needs to support Dolby Digital or DTS encoding, and your surround sound setup has to be able to decode it. If you don't see any options for Dolby Digital/DTS in your audio driver menu, you might need a different driver. It looks like at least some of those CMI 8768 cards can't actually output 5.1 over the S/PDIF connections, they can only pass a compressed 5.1 signal through the S/PDIF input to the S/PDIF output, so that could be a problem too. What kind of 5.1 system are you connecting to? What connections are available on that system? If you can't get 5.1 over S/PDIF, you can probably get analog 5.1 from the 3.5mm TRS jacks, usually by using a few cables like this.
If you have a CD changer controller (which most older Pioneers have), you can use this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00091UOCY
in conjunction with this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KR1OG/ref=mp_bxgy_p_dp_y
I ran this setup for years....in fact, its still hooked up to my old Pioneer deck sitting on a shelf in the garage.
Might need this to get the sound from the RCA connectors into the 2.1 systems' 3.5 jack unless there is a HDMI to HDMI + 3.5 jack unit available.
You can't do this with an adapter. You need at minimum some kind of amplifier. Easiest is to hide the music center and connect pc speaker out to it, going into Aux. This cable will probably fit.
What cables do the speakers have?
According to the mobo manual you have;
>6 x audio jacks(Center/Subwoofer Speaker Out/Rear Speaker Out/Side Speaker Out/Line In/Line Out/Microphone
So for the sub you need this cable and put it into the orange slot.
And then the normal speakers go into the Grey if you want side speakers, Black for rear, Green for front :)
edit-
Opps, sorry. Didn't see the pic properly. Those are speaker outs. So the speakers can connect in there.
What type of input goes into the sub?
The only outputs is can find on the tv is the Optical/toslink and headphone out. Your speaker system does not have optical but you can use a 3.5mm male jack to male jack cable: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stereo-Audio-Cable-Meter-3-5mm/dp/B000Q6LT26/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458646745&amp;sr=1-5
or a male jack to male rca connector: http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Jack-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458646745&amp;sr=1-9
but it will never be true 5.1, it seems by the speaker inputs that a jack to jack connector would be used as a 6ch input? i'm guessing it should be inserted into the green input.
edit: completely forgot about HDMI audio, but your speakers does not support this either.
This standard cable looks like it should fit, could it work?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420940372&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rca+to+3.5mm
Well luckily it does seem one pair of the RCA audio input does link with the PC video inputs: https://i.imgur.com/PumIxDU.png?1
However since it's RCA input, you'll need something like this to connect the HDMI to DVI/VGA + audio out adapter to it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable-black/dp/B000Q6LSVS
That's assuming you use an adapter like this: https://www.reddit.com/r/Chromecast/comments/70uukv/chromecast_to_nonsmart_tv/dn7mq08/
Noob here, people at r/pcmasterrace told me to come here
I have been using a Cambridge Audio Azur 540r with the two included speakers in stereo for a while now, and I want to add a center speaker (also adding a subwoofer and maybe two rear speakers later for 5.1 with sub). I wanted to get somebody to check my working before I buy so I know everything is right
Here is the manual for my motherboard (See page 21)
Here is the manual for my amp (See pages 3, 4 and 6)
By my understanding, to achieve 5.1 with a subwoofer I would need
Then I would simply wire the speakers to the output ports, with the subwoofer in the SW port of the 6.1 preamp out space
Am I right in this? Don't want to buy cables and route them to be wrong.
Also, if this is what I will in fact need, I would rather buy one cable that has all the connectors I need instead of buying multiple. Ideally I would like something that has three 3.5mm jacks (L and R, Sub and Cen, SL and SR from motherboard) on one end and the six RCA jacks (L, R, Sub, Cen, SL, SR into the amp) as opposed to having three copies of the cable linked above. I can't seem to find any online so would it be better if I just did it with the three cables instead?
Hey cool, should be pretty easy to set up.
On the back of your receiver is an input probably marked "phono"; you connect your turntable to that using an RCA cable. Those are easy to find in different lengths / prices. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40465-Value-Audio/dp/B0019MCI94/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510243440&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=rca+audio+cable
Speakers connect to your stereo using speaker wire. No need to buy the $200 variety! There are various types of connectors on the back of receivers. Very common is a post that is something like a screw, with a black cap on it that turns. Your goal is to wrap the stripped end of the speaker wire around the metal post (metal wire needs to connect metal post), and clamp it down using the black cap. (If this makes sense....)
Speaker wire is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B01D5H8XOY/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510243561&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=speaker+wire
Standard issue RCA cables, but with one end stripped in order to connect it to speakers connectors in the back of a receive/amp. These would be fine replacements:
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40465-Value-Audio/dp/B0019MCI94/ref=sr_1_23?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473959512&amp;sr=1-23&amp;keywords=rca+cables
Just strip one end, and voila! If you need longer than 12 feet, you could try these:
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Cable-Stereo-Amplifier-Mixer/dp/B006IV8QME/ref=sr_1_53?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473959669&amp;sr=1-53&amp;keywords=stereo+rca+cables
It's a pair of speakers, you'll want to place them at least a few feet apart. You'll need speaker cable to run from the amp to the speakers, the hardest part there is just stripping the wires. Then depending on what you want to hook up, you'll need RCA to 3.5 mm (to hook up your phone for instance), or straight RCAs which might be used to hook up your TV, you'd have to check. Some Samsung models don't have analog audio output.
Regarding bass, the ELAC bookshelf speakers should have enough to start with, and will definitely have a hell of a lot more than that Marshall speaker. If you feel it's lacking you can always add a dedicated subwoofer later.
If you have a USB 2.0 capture card, any audio to desktop through HDMI will have a slight delay.. so that's probably not an option.
I literally had this exact same problem OP, and I am pleased to say that I've fixed it (albeit needing more equipment than I thought I would need).
You could run a 3.5mm audio cable from the Wii U headphone jack into your mixer, but that only works for the Wii U. If you ever wanted to stream another console, you might not be able to use the same method. That's why I use an HDMI audio extractor.
I have a Xenyx 802, and here's my setup:
HDMI Audio Extractor: Amazon
Cables going from HDMI audio extractor to mixer: Amazon
Adapters for RCA to 1/4": Amazon
From PC headphone jack to mixer: Amazon
Then I just use a 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter in the headphone port of the mixer and boom -- all the audio from both desktop AND console to one headset.
Disclaimer: There may very well be a better / more efficient way to do this.. I admit that I'm still a pretty big noob when it comes to audio equipment, but this was my holy grail for the longest time, and I finally found a way to do it :).
I own a pair of these klipsch 2.1 computer speakers and they are by far the best speakers I've ever owned for the value.
They're affordable, they pack a f***kin' punch, and they're crystal clear after over 2 years of use. This is the best PC/HTPC solution I've found below upgrading to a home entertainment system/surround sound.
Edit: This is also a non-receiver solution as I forgot to address. I have my speakers pre-set to a specific volume and then use my HTPC audio controls to adjust the volume up/down as needed.
If you want the speakers to work for both your HTPC and your tv, you can plug the speakers directly into your TV using an RCA-Y cable.
And then just use an HDMI cable from your PC to your TV, and all audio will be directed through your TVs RCA channels (two speakers).
Correct. Those are powered/active speakers. The noise is probably due to the computer's sound card unless the built-in amplifier is defective. You could run those speakers from an external DAC like a schiit modi but you would need a cable like this to plug your speakers into the modi.
You can use any earbud type headphones with this adapter or this one with a pair of these cables.
There is no volume control on these adapters, so your TV has to control the volume (not sure if it does). I know my very old Bravia can't from the optical jack.
Try using the auxilary input, the cable is included as per the listing on Amazon(Speaker). Connect to the audio out behind TV(red,white), the other end to the aux in on the speaker. 3.5 mm cable looks like the headphone jack cable.
Use this cable
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506271544&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=rca+to+3.5
Or if you have 3.5 mm cable use the one below to convert to RCA
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40424-Stereo-Y-Cable/dp/B001B8QUS6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506271481&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=rca+to+3.5+female
Here is my setup now.
When I add the sub, I put an RCA Piggyback cable in between the volume control and the speakers. That will then connect to the sub and allow me to control both the speakers and the sub with the volume control.
Links to parts
3.5mm Male to RCA http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP
Volume Control http://www.amazon.com/Axxess-AALC-Controller-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B003FPD3IS
3.5mm Female to RCA http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40424-Stereo-YCable/dp/B001B8QUS6
3.5mm to XLR http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40424-Stereo-YCable/dp/B001B8QUS6
RCA Piggyback cable http://www.amazon.com/Male-Female-Piggyback-Audio-Cable/dp/B000I98ZE6
It sounds a lot more like the first link you supplied.
Ok, what I am doing is far more low tech. I want to game on my TV without annoying my wife. The TV has analog output and I bought this to plug into the TV. I then used my trusty old 3.5MM headphones and came upon that annoying noise. I have since used another connector on the TV and came upon the same noise, so I'm fairly certain it comes from the TV
stereo mini to rca cable: http://www.amazon.com/Dynex-Mini-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B0032JAG4G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411740345&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=stereo+mini+to+rca
You need this. Hook that up to the AUX out of your TV and then upto the two plugs, by color, to the back of your receiver (top of the image you provided).
The audio out section of your tv should be set to "fixed". Then you should be all set...
Those are RCA inputs. You need to buy a stereo mini jack-to-RCA cord. like this
So like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Dynex-Mini-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B0032JAG4G/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Those all would just use a standard 1/8" audio cable. If you use the micca speakers with an amp you would need a 1/8" to RCA cable (but those are cheap) and some speaker wire.
It may be worth getting a usb hub if you have issues with not having enough ports. (A cheap one like this wouldn't work for charging devices but would open up more ports for mouse, keyboard, etc.)
What are you using in your turntable/laptop setup? Essentially you want the output of whatever is producing the music (laptop or turntable depending on whether your spinning records or using traktor) to be sent to the SP404.
I'm pretty sure you'd need an audio interface to do that from the laptop as you need to send the stereo output into the SP404's inputs. As the SP is for FXs, it will be at the end of your chain, so the SP will be hooked up to the mixer of the venue you play at.
But I guess if you could find a mini jack to RCA cable adapter (or just the cable) you could plug your laptop's headphone output straight into the SP404.
I think the audio interface would sound better/be more stable, but something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Mini-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B0032JAG4G
The SPDIF_O header (top left in your photo) will already do optical out, you just need the bracket. You'll need to grab 5V for the bracket's third pin from a spare USB header - check your motherboard manual for the header pin locations.
Edit: More info/instructions
Build List:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $159.99 @ Micro Center
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper TX3 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $17.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ECS B85H3-M3(1.0) Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $44.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Team Vulcan 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $27.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $45.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | XFX Radeon R9 280 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card | $140.79 @ Micro Center
Case | Fractal Design Core 1100 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $39.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $39.99 @ SuperBiiz
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $522.61
| Mail-in rebates | -$5.00
| Total | $517.61
Other parts:
Part| Link
---|---
Amp/Dac | SMSL SD-793II
Optical Cable | AmazonBasics Digital Optical Audio Toslink Cable - 6 Ft
S/PDIF Header Card | S/PDIF RCA Out Plate Cable Bracket
Headphones | ATH-M50s
My build (linked above) is all assembled and running Windows 10. I bought the audio equipment (linked above) last week, except the headphones which I've had for about 2 years. I installed the header card (changing the pin out to match my motherboard) and hooked up all the cables to the Amp/Dac. The red light can be seen from the header card and through the cable to the Amp, so physically the card is working. Both lights on the Amp light up, so I assume it is functioning properly.
In software, Windows sound shows the digital output as Ready and the properties look good. The test feature of windows shows the green bars outputting sound, but no sound comes out of the amp. I've tested this on both input selections on the amp and get nothing either way. The Realtek Audio Manager shows that there is a connection in the optical port (full color rather than grayed out image of analog outputs, above).
I've done a driver roll back on the Realtek HD Audio, which renamed it High Definition Audio Device in Device Manager, removed the Realtek Audio Manager from Control Panel, and renamed the output Digital Audio (S/PDIF) in Windows Sound. I've disabled the AMD HD Audio Device, which removed my monitor from the Windows Sound panel. None of this had any effect.
Assuming that the header card is working (seen by red light output, shows up in software) and any one of the permutations of software changes above would've worked, then the Amp must be defective despite the LEDs lighting up.
Thoughts?
You could probably find a spdif header to stick into your pc for <$10 and then go optical cable PC->receiver.
Check your motherboard manual for an optical pin out and then head to eBay
edit: one of these plugged into here
https://www.amazon.com/SPDIF-RCA-Plate-Cable-Bracket/dp/B0035J9Z7W
Kind of stupid expensive for what it is. Probably cheaper ones out there. I think it was the
MSIGB board I specifically noticed it on, but it might be there on others as well.Hey Zeos, I'm looking to run a SMSL SD-793ii as a DAC/AMP but my motherboard doesn't have a S/PDIF output. I know that you linked the fanmusic USB to S/PDIF as an alternative but I was wondering if something like this would also work. If it does, do you suggest I go with this route or the fanmusic route?
EDIT: Would something like this also be an alternative?
Thank you!
Most motherboards have an SPDIF header on them - this may be all you need.
What's your motherboard?
If that's the case, you might be better off buying active powered PA speakers. Most home theater speakers aren't going to be able to handle the volume you're probably going to throw at them. You won't have to buy a receiver either, because these speakers have their own power source.
These speakers would be good, and you'd need a mixer like this (and power supply to hook your source up to, using this cable.
We had a system similar to this in our frat house in college, and those speakers were just about indestructible and ridiculously loud. You can also add a subwoofer (or two) if you want.
Edit: Forgot about speaker cables.
You can also skip the mixer and just directly hook up your audio source to the speakers using this.
Here we go, I am torn between these options. Anyone have any thoughts or insight into them? Maybe a better recommendation?
Kanto YU2's
Mackie CR3's
Edifier R1280T's
Edifier R1280DB
Micca PB42X
Also looking into Mediabridge 3.5mm Male to 2-Male RCA Adapter
You can use a 3.5mm to RCA cable to connect your computer/phone/etc. -> amp -> headphones.
Yes that would work. Female to 2x output is fine. You will see brightness loss. You will also have VERY little cord to work with (<12in). The capture card and crt will have to be within roughly 6 inches of each other. I'm happy to have 3ft for when the times I join a setup with a large tv that is against a wall. You can decide if these aren't big issues for you.
If you want more brightness, only option is powered splitter.
If you want more cord length, it seems like you must get these type of splitters (not needed to have this brand/store). And you must also get 2 3RCA male to 3RCA male cords (these come in larger sizes than the all in one splitter).
Think Super_Bad got confused by you saying converter, you're just asking about splitters yeah? You can get unpowered splitters for super cheap, and even amplifiers aren't expensive. An amp is better but the unpowered splitters will still get the job done.
Also please don't get a Dazzle, they're trash. Go with the GV-USB2 suggestion if you're looking for something cheap and decent.
Edit: Oh actually you may want to get the Roxio GameCap SD, it's cheap too and does component capture and pass through. You'll need to get component Wii cables, but they're super cheap on Ebay, and also just a standard component cable, no splitters needed.
Edit 2: Oh nvm the Roxio has been on sale for $50 for ages but apparently they finally ended that, not worth it for $100 lol.
Edit 3: Actually if you add the Roxio to your cart on the site it still says it's only $50.
Edit 4: 20ROXIOSAVE for 20% off on the Roxio store
Don't do that! The speaker-level input to your sub will have a set of resistors (voltage dividers) to reduce the voltage to an acceptable level for the sub preamp circuitry. The RCA inputs will be expecting an input level of 2Volts maximum. You could be delivering 20Volts that way (50W into 8Ohms using P=V\^2/R).
If you really want to use phono/coax cables, get two of these or similar.
Here ya go
You can.
I also recommend getting amarec tv and window capturing it in obs/xsplit.
If you want to still be able to play off your tv get 2way female 1way male splitters and an extra set of component cables and plug the splitters into the easy cap then plug the extra cables into the tv , the other end into the splitter , than plug the console cable into the splitters
Here are the splitters: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AMTRUYI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_toiTtb0KMDXX7
What does the EasyCap output to? All you should have to do is get a splitter for that and run it to both your TV and Laptop.
Or if the EasyCap outputs to a cable your TV does not support/the spliter is more expensive (HDMI) then you could always just split the composite cables before it goes into the EasyCap. Something like this [should work] (http://www.amazon.com/RHX-Splitter-Adapter-2Female-Convert/dp/B00AMTRUYI/). You should need another set of male-to-male composite cables though.
I would recommend just getting these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AMTRUYI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You plug the male end of this directly into the tv, and then the cords for the console go in to one of the female ends, and you connect the elgato's component cables to the other female end using a male-male cable. This is the set up I have for older consoles (coupled with a rca / composite switch to toggle which console is being connected) and it works pretty well.
That's a shitty professor. Get an adapter and play the video straight into a VCR recording and get it working. The final step is to reach out to your classmates and offer your services for much less than your professor does. You can teach him a lesson too.
edit: I think something like this would work for the video, and this should work for the audio. With an RCA cable, the yellow part going into the video and the white and red going into the audio.
Well, assuming you already have composite video cables and 3.5mm -> 3.5mm audio cables around, you could buy this:
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Female-Composite-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B00CIC9KW2/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_y
And pair it with this:
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1410901299&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=rca+y+cable
And you've essentially recreated the original ports found on the Raspberry PI B.
Are you just looking to get 3.5mm audio out of your ps3? If so you can set the ps3 to use the hdmi for video and the composite output (the cable that comes with the ps3) for audio and use a composite to 3.5mm adapter.
Composite Cable
Composite to 3.5mm
PS3 Audio Settings
PS3 Video Settings
If this isn't what you were looking for, let me know what your end goal is and I'll try to help.
Sure, just use a 3.5mm to AV adapter.
I think that's exactly it! No amount of googling was telling me that composite can come in 3.5mm instead of just the yellow wire, but as soon as I knew what i needed these come up which should fix my problem. Thanks!
Can you link to the screen in question so I can get a better look at the input it wants?
3min of googling makes me think the combination of the below two items will work
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-3-5mm-Composite-Audio-Video/dp/B00GO4EPKC/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501174494&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=composite+to+3.5mm
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Triple-Composite-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00CIC9KW2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501174467&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=composite+female+to+3.5mm+male
Yeah that looks like a 3.5mm jack. It looks like this thing exists, although I've never personally used one. I would try to connect the AV receiver to the TV with an HDMI if at all possible, and then route everything through the AV receiver.
Seems like your MB is the most likely culprit as you already pointed out. I first thought it's a problem because you are double amping the signal, but you said you tried to same setup with your friends MB and you heard no static. Easiest test would be maybe borrowing your friends DAC for a day and seeing if that resolves the issue. If it does you can go ahead and buy one for yourself. The Modi 2 Uber is a great piece of equipment and will do the job. Your MB has optical out so i'd say you use that to connect your PC with the DAC and a normal RCA to RCA cable like this cheaper one will also do.
I've been pleased with these for some of my setups. I have more expensive ones on my main setup, but my two cheaper amp/headphone setups work great with these. Honestly one of them replaced a lost Audioquest cable and I thought this sounded better, and only $10.
KabelDirekt (3 feet) 2 x RCA Male to 2 x RCA Male Stereo Audio Cable - PRO Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI89I04/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_q2l-ybZ9H39HP
Edit: sorry, didn't realize you were looking for a 6". My fault.
Hi all,
I'm looking for some cartridge assistance/general information on a first TT I am purchasing as an x-mas gift for my girlfriend (she's rad).
I've read all the links and guides and have finally settled on two choices for a new TT: the Fluance RT83
or the Denon DP-300F
The Denon DP-300F is on sale for black Friday currently so I am leaning towards it. That being said, I would like to replace the cartridge on it with a Ortofon 2M Red. How difficult would it be for someone completely new to TT's like myself to replace the cartridge? Would I be better off purchasing it already upgraded from another source and just pay the difference for the work and peace of mind that it is done correctly: https://www.turntablelab.com/products/denon-dp-300f-turntable-ortofon-2m-red-upgrade
Also, as a side note, I am looking at pairing both with an active speaker (I'll upgrade and do things the right way as I get more funds--ugh!). And if I go with RT83 I'll pick up a Schiit Mani pre-amp as well. To hook everything up, all I'll need is two pairs of RCA cables for connecting the TT to the pre-amp and then another pair to connect pre-amp to speakers correct? I would hate to get everything all packaged together for x-mas and then figure out I didn't even get the right cables to hook this bad boy up.
Cheers
Let say you currently have your phone's headphone out hooked up to a little SMSL SA50 via a 3.5mm to RCA cable, and then speaker wire from the amp to the speakers.
Adding a sub like this with high passed RCA outputs (high frequencies pass through, lower frequencies are filtered out), you would use that above cable to go to the RCA inputs of the sub, and then use a regular RCA cable to go from the sub's high passed outputs to the amp. The speakers are still connected via speaker wire in the prior, usual manner.
The downside to this setup versus a receiver with proper bass management, is what happens when you use the volume controls on the amp. If you turn it up there, the bass at the sub does not adjust to match.
The solution (short of getting a different amp that does bass management and wiring in the conventional manner) is to set the amp's volume to a suitably loud max level, adjust the gain on the sub so it is balanced, and then adjust the input volume at the source - in this example, your phone. At low phone volume, the signal is low, and even though the amp is set high, you still have low dB output. This allows the bass volume at the sub to remain balanced with the speaker volume.
Edit: just be careful when you connect up to remember to lower the source volume as the amp's volume is already at loud!
so like this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI89IQS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
So all I should need is the Type A male to Type B male USB cable and 2x '2RCA to 2RCA' cables?
Here's the ones I'm gonna order, will they work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DI89IQS/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498432257&amp;sr=8-14&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=rca%2Bcables&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P0FO1P0/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1_1_2?smid=AKXVBT49GGF3B&amp;psc=1
And again, thank you SO much for putting up with me and helping me with this, for real. I truly appreciate it man.
The RCA's I'm using from the HU to the MiniDSP 2x4 are these -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI89IQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
The ones I'm using from the DSP to the amp are these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
The Behringer MicrHD HD400 looks interested, although I cannot find anywhere where people have uses it in car audio. The description says that it is for AC current. Have you used it in car audio, which is DC current? I also just noticed it's only 2 channel, is there a 4 channel option? I'm not seeing one. I'd need for channels to run it after the MiniDSP 2x4.
Do you think this would work:
toslink --> https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Toslink-Digital-Converter-1500059/dp/B007Z83FN4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510604030&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=toslink+to+coax
--> https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Digital-Audio-Coaxial/dp/B00FMZX5RI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510604839&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=digital+coax+cable
--> https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-BNC-Male-Female-Adaptor/dp/B006VK8IEI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510604846&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=rca+to+bnc
Xbox > (HDMI) > TV > (Coaxial) > Receiver
All you need is something like this https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Digital-Audio-Coaxial/dp/B00FMZX5RI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466713959&amp;sr=1-1
EDIT: All the suggestions here would work btw. Figure out which one works best for you.
The TV's COAX out looks like a yellow/orange RCA out, right?
You need a DAC to convert the signal from digital to analog.
This should do it.
You'll need a digital coax cable too
For the sub you'll just need 1 coaxial RCA cable out from the receiver (Like what I linked below for the Fiio).
One coaxial cable for the DAC into the receiver, Like this cable
and two RCA to 1/4 TRS cable for the receiver to the JBLs, Like this cable
If you already have the JBLs hooked up via the Fiio you should already have those last two cables.
thanks.. i already got this
it doesn't insert completely, but i get the bass signal out of it.. but its so subtle even at highest volume..
>thanks.. i already got this
>it doesn't insert completely, but i get the bass signal out of it.. but its so subtle even at highest volume..
Yep, I've had those on my sub's as well. They go on like a vise so I'm not surprised you're having issues getting them to seat fully. I finally replaced mine as they were just too tight for my liking. I almost pulled my AV receiver off of it's rack removing one side. Be very careful removing these. You have to be forceful yet restrained if that makes any sense. My guess is they aren't seated fully and you'll need to push them in completely. Either that or get my Knu Konceptz cables or the Kable Direkt's I linked you😉.
Get yourself a capture card, RCA splitters, and a double-sided RCA cable. The capture card I linked is extremely cheap but does its job for the most part. The quality is by no means great but it's watchable at least. Use that to record your matches instead of VHS, it's much simpler to handle in the long run.
> And I connect that 1 cable to the interface then I take the other cable and connect it to the interface so it takes up two inputs in the back of the interface
Can you explain what you mean by this? I'm a bit confused.
[Here's a picture of how one channel could be connected] (https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/244316047258288128/611638771686834181/unknown.png) using [RCA splitters] (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-5-Pack-Plated-Adapter/dp/B0141KPCDY), [RCA>TS adapters] (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPR-101-Adaptors-Black-Pieces/dp/B000068O3S/), and normal male-male RCA cables. Similar adapters and splitters and such exist going the other direction (TS > RCA for the sub), so there's a lot of different ways you could do this, but I figured I'd give an example.
That'll work fine.
You'll need an RCA cable to use that y-adapter, but you can also buy splitters that will plug directly into your switch:
https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-5-Pack-Plated-Adapter/dp/B0141KPCDY/
Another option even is getting two connectors like this and a regular rca to 3.5mm cable and you should end up with the same thing functionally, I'd personally go with this option.
Oh btw Monoprice.com is great for getting stuff like this, cheap and good quality.
No problem. Actually now I've looked at the manual for your sub, I think I have a handle on what you need to do.
Here's a copy of the sub's manual. As you can see from the diagram, the single socket on the back of there is an output, not an input. You need to plug your Bose speakers into that with the standard lead, no adaptors needed.
To get the signal from the Scarlett to the subwoofer is a little trickier. You'll need a "2 x mono RCA to 3.5mm stereo socket" adapter. Here's one on Amazon - they may have one at Best Buy, but I couldn't find one with a quick search.
You plug the two RCA plugs from that adaptor into unbalanced outputs 1 + 2 on the back of the Scarlett. Then you take the lead from the sub (the one coming out of the little doohickey with the power switch and volume knob on it, which is attached to the sub - you can see it in the diagram in the manual) and plug it into the 3.5mm jack socket on the adapter.
I'm pretty sure that'll do the trick. Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/yueton-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B0156F38LG/
If im reading this right, you just need one of these. https://www.amazon.com/yueton-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B0156F38LG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496544025&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=3.5mm+Stereo+Female+to+2+RCA+Male+Cable
Easy? I'm not sure. But I think this would fix it.
Solder (2) RCA Leads on the output, then use this cable.
I actually had this problem the other day! As you may know, the menus of most ps1 games are at 480p, but the game itself is at 240p, a resolution so unusual most TV's just ignore it. Over composite (also referred to as AV, RCA, and a million other names), it doesn't really care though.
If your TV has component as well as RCA, you could buy one of these cables that you can plug into both the component and composite inputs (If both these inputs do not share a sound input, you'll need A 2-pack of these splitters to make it work)
Then, depending on if you're playing a PS1 or PS2 game, you can just change the input on your TV accordingly between component and AV. Afaik this is the most elegant solution that allows you to enjoy the clarity of component video in PS2 games.
EDIT: If you're just getting into PS1 games on the PS2 you should also know you need a PS1 memory card to save your game. PS2 memory cards inexplicably do not get recognized by the game.
Since they're powered speakers and you just want to test audio from your deck, you can skip the Pioneer altogether and go from RCA out on the tape deck straight to the input on your pc speakers.
You need an RCA to TRS jack (female) then just plug the RCA's into your tape deck and the TRS plug from the speakers to the jack on the adapter.
Here's the adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/yueton-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B0156F38LG/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522158276&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=rca+to+3.5mm+jack
You can leave your amp right out of the picture for testing, your tape deck puts out linelevel which is fine to send to the speakers.
Well... the 3rd part you'd want to get is female 3.5mm like this . The one in the post you linked is male to plug into a monitor.
Do you have anything to control the volume if you do it this way? Just something that would bother me.
edit: searched toslink to 3.5mm and stuff like this came up. No need for RCA to 3.5mm if there's already 3.5mm port. Looks like the power cable is USB, too. Maybe you can just plug into the PS4 and save a power outlet on your surge protector.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000382-Z313-Speaker-System/dp/B002HWRZ2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504518229&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=z313
https://www.amazon.com/yueton-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B0156F38LG/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504518244&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=3.5+rca+adapter
38$
when my controller is hooked up to desktop i have z623's which have dedicated RCA inputs but are way over your budget
but on my laptop when im lounging around living room i have that exact setup linked above.
or goto a thrift store look for some used PC speakers preferably with a subwoofer and then buy an adapter like i linked, but its always a gamble.
the adapter is not a hassle, in ur price range it's pretty much a requirement.
>If your TV has component as well as RCA, you could buy one of these cables that you can plug into both the component and composite inputs (If both these inputs do not share a sound input, you'll need A 2-pack of these splitters to make it work)
>
I have a component cable (one which has red, green and blue YPbPr connectors and the yellow analog video in too) . My new tv doesn't have a component (or composite or scart) in though, so i need an hdmi converter.
Maybe I shouldn't have made a tldr that leaves this out, because i said so above ;)
>Then, depending on if you're playing a PS1 or PS2 game, you can just change the input on your TV accordingly between component and AV. Afaik this is the most elegant solution that allows you to enjoy the clarity of component video in PS2 games.
I don't think think having to use yellow video in for psx games is satisfactory when they were working with composite before. I'll try the upscaler.
>EDIT: If you're just getting into PS1 games on the PS2 you should also know you need a PS1 memory card to save your game.
I'm not just getting into them. I've played them on my ps2 for 18 years. :) Most of the time through composite (YPbPr), which my old tv supported (and all psx games worked like that).
>PS2 memory cards inexplicably do not get recognized by the game.
They have a different data format so (though you could argue they could have made so you can put a 128KB psx save file onto a ps2 memory card).
But thanks anyway
I need some help. Below I am going to list all the stuff that I currently have.
My goal is to use my JBL Speakers to play audio for Netflix which is run through an Apple TV.
I plug the Hosa cables into the JBL speakers and then into the 3.5mm to RCA. The RCA is plugged into the converter. The converter has a digital optical cable plugged into it. The other end of the optical cable is plugged into the Apple TV.
All I hear is hissing. No sound from the Netflix show.
Please let me know if I need to supply any additional information.
vizio tv
https://www.cnet.com/products/vizio-e371vl/
apple tv 3rd generation
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT200008#appletv-3rd
digital to analog converter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KNNSKV0?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
3.5mm female to 2 male rca
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0156F38LG?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Hosa 3.5mm TRS to dual 1/4" stereo breakout cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
JBL speakers (lsr305)x2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DUKP37C?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
You can get the game audio...
You have to plug the green 3.5mm plug into a red/white composite audio adapter....
You'll have to buy one of these and plug it into the back of your TV's composite out if it has them (red and white plug)
Then plug the green 3.5mm plug into that adapter.
Then plug the usb into any usb power source (powers the headset)
and then plug the 3.5mm to 2.5mm cable and plug it into your controller adapter.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;url=https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Beach-Force-Adapter-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B00B08REVY&amp;ved=2ahUKEwin-4zjy6jeAhUzLn0KHcRFDiAQFjAAegQIABAB&amp;usg=AOvVaw3N9PkgL6g_5z6HYqAgNzF4
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;url=https://www.amazon.com/MOCREO-Splitter-1-Mini-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B015J4OKZW&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjW98mfzKjeAhWkITQIHQppDuAQFjAAegQIBRAB&amp;usg=AOvVaw3EYAuz33TgcGAaSiQcwogJ
It wouldn't plug into the tv, but it would work with any headphones
Hey! I have a method that might work for you to get the sound to our headphones.
A lot of modern TVs have red/white ports on them that are there to connect to external speakers, if your TV has these you can grab an adapter like This and a splitter like This hook those together and into your TV then plug in your headphones. if the sound is still coming out of your tv there might be a setting to turn off the built in speakers. I hope this helps! and if you need more clarification just let me know! Good luck!
Thank you, that definitely helps, but I was wondering if there was a way I could simplify this more?
My tv has optical outputs, but do I really need to use an adapter if I already have RCA outputs? (The red and white cable) Why not just buy an RCA to 3.5mm splitter cable and plug my headphones into the tv through them. That should work the same way right?
Like this cable here
So that speaker system has 3 inputs: 1 RCA (red/white) and 2 headphone jack. With your three devices, assuming your TV has no audio out, you can connect each device via RCA cable, headphone cable, or an adapter for one to the other, to those three inputs on the speaker system, for your cheapest possible solution. So a mix of these cables should do, hopefully? Let us know what you think:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=zg_bs_597566_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=77XCX74SBHRRD7D85Q1V
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=zg_bs_597566_6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=77XCX74SBHRRD7D85Q1V
https://www.amazon.com/MOCREO-Splitter-1-Mini-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B015J4OKZW/ref=zg_bs_597546_11?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2Q1JZS2CEWWGYGWWCR6R
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=zg_bs_597546_19?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2Q1JZS2CEWWGYGWWCR6R
EDIT: and here's some extensions also, in case you grab any of the above and they're too short:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481742465&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=headphone+extension
https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-6-Feet-Cblwhl-Extension-10R1-02206/dp/B000I1GZ0U/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481742502&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=rca+extension
EDIT 2: Can you send us the brand/model # of your TV so we can check out the inputs/outputs? Thanks!
I do that via Line In. I have an audio out from my TV via a Digital output into a converter to 3.5mm cable that goes into the PC's Line In port. Links below.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CZCYRTU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11H38/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015J4OKZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 Along with a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable and you're good to go.
What type of cable would i use to connect the MORDAUNT SHORT
M20 to the smsl sa 36a? also would i use an rca to 3.5mm cable to connect the amp to my PC? like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B015PZ7QO2/ref=twister_B00N9VLU9W?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Not perfect, but maybe you could add something like this between the turntable and the Sonos? I've never done this, but might be an option.
Has a button to send the output to the Sonos or Headphones
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Computer-Headphones-Converter-Switching/dp/B015FJ9WMW/
Then use RCA to 3.5 to connect it together
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B015PZ7QO2
That sounds pretty complicated.
use this and connect to your pc. If you can find a cheaper one out there, you can use that too.
After that, use 2 of these to connect to the splitter above. Use one pair to go into your Audioengine A2 and the other pair goes into your subwoofer.
Are you referring to when you're playing it in portable mode or docked? If portable, you should be able to use some sort of USB-C to RCA adapter (like this) or a AUX to RCA adapter in the headphone jack (like this). If it's docked, I think you can use a USB-A to RCA adapter (like this).
You'd have to do some testing to figure that out. I assume you have just a pair of powered speakers - IE you plug them into the wall and turn them on and control the volume with them?
If that's the case, first step is to use a different audio source to see if they work. Grab a mini-stereo to RCA cable like this, plug your phone into the speakers, and see if you can stream a song from it. If yes, the issue is with the table or the RCA cables. If no, the issue is with the speakers.
If your phone does play fine through the speakers, then the next step, unfortunately, is probably to drop a hundred bucks or so on a different turntable. Looking at your Aiwa's manual, it doesn't look like the RCA cables (possible culprit 1) are removable, and the cartridge (possible culprit 2) is definitely not replaceable.
To get started you need an amp and a set of speakers. Your budget will determine quite a bit about what you get.
With your budget you're looking at some bookshelf speakers and an amp as an AVR will just eat too much of it. I like using an AVR for 2.1 setups like you've requested but this time it's just not going to happen unless the budget increases.
My shopping list for you
Amp - Sony STRDH130 $100 2.0 receiver will give you more inputs, bass and treble control and a remote.
Sub - Dayton Sub 1200 $120 on sale. The 12" should get you more an enough bass to shake the floor. Just be sure to adjust the level of the sub more than on the AVR as you don't want to overdrive the speakers as they will not produce a lot of bass and you can't cross them over.
Speakers - JBL Loft 30 $40 or Polk T15 $50 Neither of these are "great" speakers but they will get the job done. You can upgrade down the road if you fell they are lacking.
Misc - Speaker wire $11, RCA to 3.5mm $7, and electricians tool$11. You don't have to get the tool but it makes stripping so much easier if you don't have one.
Total: $299 for the Polks and $289 for the JBL setup
*with tool included
Yes, from the preamp you can connect an RCA-to-3.5mm(aux) cabe and hook it up to the speakers. You can look into the ART phono preamp, it's quite cheap and works ok: https://www.amazon.com/ART-Audio-DJPRE-Turntable-Preamplifier/dp/B000AJR482/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483211970&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=art+phono+preamp
The cable you would need is like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Plated-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B015PZ7QO2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483212026&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=rca+to+3.5mm
Here's a helpful diagram. Ignore the DAC in the pic, and get a cable like this to plug straight into your pc from your amp.
Can you send the screenshots of the exact cables/bananas i need? from this 2 items:
https://www.amazon.de/AmazonBasics-PBH-20214-Cinch-Audiokabel-Cinch-Stecker-auf/dp/B01D5H8N8K/ref=sr_1_15_sspa?keywords=subwooferkabel&qid=1562883570&s=ce-de&sr=1-15-spons&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.de/Nakamichi-Bananenstecker-Bananas-vergoldet-schwarz/dp/B00B257Z32/ref=sr_1_6?crid=U9Y500CMGKCI&keywords=banana+plugs&qid=1562883892&s=ce-de&sprefix=banana%2Celectronics%2C169&sr=1-6 ? so i dont buy the wrong ones, please?
https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamrxv483bl/yamaha-rx-v483-5.1-ch-x-80-watts-a/v-receiver/1.html
Plus
https://www.amazon.com/Jamo-Studio-803-HCS-BLK-Cinema/dp/B07JJ5VKHL
Run the surrounds or use them for desktop or something else or sell/give away........( they are Free basically since speaker pkg. is $30 Cheaper than S803 plus Center separately )
Plus
https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-SUB-R10-Reference-10/dp/B00K7F63CM
$705 plus tax plus cables n wires plus possible speaker stands.......
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Speaker-Cable-Gold-Plated-Banana/dp/B07FKJDTPY
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-1-Pack/dp/B014I8SSD0
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1-Male-2-Male-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8N8K
https://www.amazon.com/Atlantic-77335799-Speaker-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B007P8DKDE
https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Universal-Surround-Speakers-STAND-SP03B/dp/B01MCS2ZLO
Ok. So no special tips or anything. I haven't hooked any of these up in over a decade.
&#x200B;
So these should work
RCA - Looking at the Denon it shows only one port for the sub. So should I get 1 male to 2 male/
Edit: I see now I need to go single to single.
Speaker
put on of these (3.5 trs stereo to mono RCA) on the back of your dot.
&#x200B;
the plug one of these (male RCA to two Male RCA splitter) into the s/m adapter, and plug the other end into your stereo inputs.
Easy answer?
Split the RCA signal then going INTO the Valhalla. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-1-Male-2-Male-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8N8K/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=rca+splitter+cable+male&amp;qid=1570037120&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-7
One of the split ends to the headphone amp, the other to the subwoofer. BEFORE THE AMP This is important.
This is the easiest, cheapest way I can think of to achieve what you want.
Again, what you're using this mixer for isn't really what it was designed for.
Harder Answer: You really should be pushing your Alto speakers via the main outs, and your headphone/sub out of the monitor outs. The headphone out is... a headphone out, but the answer above will suffice for you until you retire this system.
Ideally, you'd be using a better sound card and no mixer at all. (let your PC be the mixer). You would want something with at least 6 outputs, but the price of these have come down significantly in the last decade or so. When it's time to upgrade, take a look at what's available.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8N8K/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01D5H8N8K&pd_rd_w=Xt1tm&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=iJxPF&pf_rd_r=P6MEZVRY1YY5AWJ8RYRG&pd_rd_r=a66ad30f-cde9-490f-af60-16ab29a52619&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSFJNVkpZSU8xS1FIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDI5MDEwOEhWODY3QzgxSDBWJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyMDYxMzUyRldMT0tRN0YwM1I3JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== for the rca to subwoofer.
I talked with Yamaha chat support and the guy told me I needed to get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H8N8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That way the purple end will go into the Subwoofer 1 port on the receiver and the other two will plug into both the left and the right RCA connectors on the subwoofer. Just connecting an RCA to the subwoofer 1 port and either the right or left RCA on the sub won't work.
Just for reference.
These : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8PQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ciJRyb7ECNESR
Before this was thick Monster RCA's i used to DJ with. Bought like 10 years ago from guitar center.
I dont think its the RCA's
The first question I gotta think a bit about will respond again later tonight after dinner and some thinking.
As far as hooking a CD player into a VCR? If that is what you mean it would be one of these assuming you mean plugging like a portable CD player into the audio in of the VCR:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/
If the CD player is a stereo component style and not a portable you would just use regular straight RCA audio cables:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8PQ0
Example if it is the large stereo equipment version of a CD player the line out is RCA cables:
http://www.nrpavs.co.nz/archive_2_10/Sold_2_10_htm/Images/Sony_CDP-761E_bk_RCAs_rem_630x432_pixels.gif
If it is this sort of cd player you would have to use the top cable I have in this message:
https://d1aeri3ty3izns.cloudfront.net/media/30/303565/1200/preview.jpg
If you have an SB2 just use a cable like this to connect to your speakers
Thanks!
So I buy one of those, in addition to one of the regular RCA cables, (would this work?) and I plug the splitter in to the aux and the aux into my speakers, and I use the regular cable to connect the sub to the splitter cable?
Again, this is all very confusing to me, I'm having trouble picturing exactly what you're talking about in my head.
I use something similar: https://www.amazon.com/Dazzle-Video-Creator-Plus-VERSION/dp/B00392K4LQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484532799&amp;sr=1-4-fkmr0&amp;keywords=rga+capture+card
also using RCA splitter similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Bonayuanda-Female-Splitter-Adapter-12inch/dp/B01J007XGO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484532852&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=rca+splitter
sample video from 2009 on my X360 to capture card and then later edited with Sony Vegas: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiGNHHzGlBM
Quick and dirty way that may not always work, splitter cables like this https://www.amazon.com/Bonayuanda-Female-Splitter-Adapter-12inch/dp/B01J007XGO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512079948&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=rca+splitter+video with a couple of regular TVs
Professional monitor way, stick the PS2 output into the input port, then connect the output to the input of another monitor.
Good quality but still works with consumer TVs way, use a distribution amplifier.
Thanks for the insight! For the splitter cable, does one of this work as well ? or i need to get two of the ones you mentioned
not quite. something like this piggyback RCA connector would work, or this RCA splitter
you could use a 3.5mm splitter with two of the 3.5mm to RCA cables
The standard elgato may not be a great choice for twitch, since there is a ~2 second delay that can be a bit of an annoyance.
You basically need:
A capture card
GV-USB2 is pretty great quality for SD, but installing the drivers is entirely in japanese. They're pretty easy to figure out by just hitting random buttons and guessing, but people have made guides for "hit these buttons in this order". Once you set it up, it'll work perfectly from then on. The Dazzle DVC 100 used to be a pretty common choice, but I think the GV-USB2 is honestly better (I have a Dazzle, and even I'll admit the GV-USB2 is better).
As far as a splitter/switch, unpowered splitter cables would be fine, such as these plugged into the side of your NES, just make sure you get RCA cables that match up to go to your TV and to your capture card. If you want to get the best picture quality, a powered splitter/switch like this one will give a slightly better picture and will give you room to hook up more consoles as well (since it is a switch as well).
As for software, the standard entry-level streaming software is OBS, and for free software, it honestly is pretty great. If you want to spend money, there's some other good stuff out there, but OBS does everything you'd probably want to do. If you want something a bit better for a timer than your iPhone, try LiveSplit. You can setup splits to keep track of your pace (though considering how short the WR is, just a basic timer is probably fine, this will just allow you to let people watching on youtube or twitch see your timer too).
If you need any help otherwise, let me know.
Why don't you split L and R on the amp? https://www.amazon.com/Bonayuanda-Female-Splitter-Adapter-12inch/dp/B01J007XGO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494516405&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=rca+splitter
There's probably a version without the video out.
Sorry, that didn't come out how I wanted it to -- I meant to say that all the options appear to be around $15, but I don't want to pay that much.
If I'm dropping $15, I may as well just get a bracket that'll do it all for me :P
I'll probably buy the above bracket if I can't find a good source for a transmitter, but I'd much rather build it myself; it would be so much cooler that way.
Just a note, the amp isn't totally necessary. I have one now but I recorded with gv-usb2 without one for about a year. Just need something like this https://www.amazon.com/BronaGrand-Female-Splitter-Adapter-12inch/dp/B01J007XGO/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=male+to+2+female+composite&qid=1571661800&s=electronics&sr=1-12
All a phono pre does is bring the signal to the correct level. It basically takes an inaudible quiet signal and makes it louder.
Buy one for under 20 on Amazon. You're not going to hear the difference with your speakers.
You'll run the rca out of the table into the pre. Then this cable to your speakers. Or just an rca to a single 1/4 if only one speaker has an amp in it and powers both.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538171438&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=rca+to+1%2F4&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31uQgeV4kWL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-TRS-202-inch-Insert-Cable/dp/B000068O1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538171438&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=rca+to+1%2F4&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31ZEzo800OL&amp;ref=plSrch
Fucking kidding me? Downvotes because I simplified the explanation on a preamp yet was the only person who gave a cheap and simple way for o.p. to get his shit up and running? You all need to get your shit together.