(Part 2) Best tire repair tools according to redditors

I see the problem, you're using car tire irons. You need 3 spoons man.

I recomend the motionpro spoons. get this set and one of the box wrench end ones that fit your axle nut for the 3rd.

*Wanted to add, don't get a bead buddy, that's what the 3rd spoon is for. Use lots of soapy water, like 1 part dish soap to 8 parts water in a spray bottle. What I do is put the wheel up on a bucket(filled most of the way with water for stability) and use a clamp (or 3) to compress the tire into the rim on one side when popping it over the other.

Also, breaking the bead I totally deflate the tube, then stand on it and deflate more, then soapy water and a few whacks with a plastic hammer does the trick every time.

And after using lots of soapy water let it sit a while and/or ride easy for a few miles so you don't spin the tire on the rim and shear off the valve stem on your nice new tube. (Ask me how I know)

Very thin piece of metal, usually sold as feeler gauges used for measuring the tolerance of, or distance between two parts. When a very thin piece of metal (0.003") is inserted into the lock it will cause the pistons inside to line up enough to open it. Only works on shitty locks. Also you might need them made of copper or brass.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T86ADZ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504647911&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=feeler+gauges&dpPl=1&dpID=317K%2BrMZPHL&ref=plSrch

One suggestion from past experience, buy a tire plug kit like this or this. If your area is hit by a serious storm there will be roofing nails and other debris on the roads. The plugs will usually do a good job with nail punctures and it's easy to do.

Any multi tool from CRANKBROTHERS or Topeak will be good. For the love of GOD don't buy a cheap multi tool for your friend. Cheap tools are made poorly with low quality metals that will end up stripping your friends components. I don't care how well that POS WOTOW tool is reviewed, the positive reviews never used it. The WOTOW tool stripped more than one of my bolts before I bought an Alien II. Your friend will want to buy some high quality tools for his home use later though. $15 would only buy a few quality home tools.

​

If your friend uses tubes you could get a REMA patch kit for him. If your friend is tubeless you could get him a plug kit. I've never had a tubeless tire so I've no idea what plug kits are good/bad.

​

As someone who's spent hours in the sun changing a tube on the trail by himself, my biggest suggestions are:

• Bring one or two smaller irons and one biggun. A good 16" iron like this one from MotionPro totally changes the game. That leverage comes in really handy.
  
• I feel like you said in the comments that sitting it in the sun didn't seem to help much, but if you get a flat after hours of riding in the sun that shit will be 2x as pliable as a cold tire, so don't stress too much about it being as tough as a brand-new tire at home.
  
• Get an enduro trail stand, especially if your bike has a floating caliper that you have to wrestle with. This one is my favorite. Won't help you change the tire of course, but it makes the other 50% of the job a LOT less painful. Having one of these is like a godsend when you're tired and hot.
  
• Make good, thoughtful choices. Tires can be very frustrating but it's better to move carefully and avoid stress, overheating, or accidents when you're in the middle of nowhere. If it's hot take the time to strip your gear off, grab some water, and take inventory of your tools. Take a breather. Slowly make yourself a nice work area, preferably in the shade, that is flat and free of brush and leaves that you could lose parts or tools under. Put yourself in 'workshop' mode instead of 'emergency' mode. Give yourself a break between major steps and come back to it refreshed. Maintaining your own cool will help you deal physically and mentally.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaand this is why I carry an air compressor in my tank bag.

That said, good job on the quick fix! It always pays to be creative with problem solving.

OK dont worry you guys. I've got this. First things first, you're going to need to open up a credit card with a high limit. $30k should do to start.

• Rubber Floor Mats. I got the Mopar ones. I might suggest Weathertech instead. If you have the unlimited, you can get mats for the back was well. I cannot find any mats for the back of my two door :(
  
• Have a dog? Plan on running with the roof off? Want to prevent them from falling out? Safari Straps have your back.
  
• Off Roading? I suggest some tire deflators to air down conveniently, and a portable air compressor to air back up.
  
• Grab Handles are great. Here's one example, but I recommend shopping around. Theres a lot of different styles, find what you like.
  
• Hi Lift Jack & Base. You'll quickly find off road that the stock jack will not get you out of a lot of situations. The base is helpful on soft surfaces (wet dirt, sand, etc).
  
• Change your own damn oil! It's easy. No jack required just shimmy under there. Make sure to get an oil catcher big enough for your motor. 6-8 QTS if I recall correctly.
  
• Buy a shovel. Invaluable off road
  
• Recovery Strap & learn how to use it properly.
  
• Mechanics Gloves. Again very helpful around the jeep.
  
  That should get you off to a good start. Eventually you might think about replacing the bumpers, adding a tire carrier, lifting the jeep, getting bigger wheels, adding a winch, adding a roof rack.

Try this: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19860-Tire-Deflator/dp/B002NEUOGG Just un-screw the cap, screw this on, let it deflate, re-apply cap. No one will know the difference.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2650-Tubeless-Repair/dp/B000P1RP48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525134567&sr=8-1&keywords=mountain+bike+tire+plugs

I bought this lug wrench from Amazon since the one it comes with is worthless. High gauge, long jumper cables Also, I threw a can of fix a flat in the back. I replaced the cabin lights with white LEDs (cheap and easy), and Weathertech floor mats (awesome for winter). A basic tool kit would be great, as well.

The valve core got clogged. Replace it. Keep some spare for the next time it happens, maybe one (+tool) in your spare take-along kit on your rides.

Convenient link added:

https://www.amazon.com/d/Tire-Repair-Tools/Kenda-Presta-Valve-Cores-Bag/B0028N8DGU/

I keep one of these in my car for that reason. It’s miles better than the crappy factory lug wrench.

You can do poor man's tubeless. It's the way I did it for a year or so.

What you will need:

Scissors

A new tire with thick sidewalls if possible

A 24" tube with a schrader valve (for a 26" bike you would use a 20" tube)

Slime tubeless sealant (I have found this to be better than Stans and it does not dry out as fast)

A beer or two (what ever you like to drink)

Access to an air compressor

*A bucket of soapy water

Muscle the 24" tube around your wheel and get the valve in like it would be on a regular tire. Pump a VERY SMALL AMOUNT of air into it and then cut in the center of the tire all they way around so it spreads pretty evenly across the rim. There will be a TON off excess tire hanging over the rim, we will get there though. mount one side of you tire on the wheel just like you would if you were swapping tires. Make sure none of the cut tube folds back in underneath the tire when you mount it. Now try to muscle on the other side of the tire. It's going to be either super difficult or super easy. My tires took the strength of the God's and two beers to get it on. Again make sure the excess tube is stick out all around both sides of the tire and didnt get flipped inside the tire or anything. Now you should have what looks like a tire mounted on the wheel with a bunch skin hanging out on both sides. Next remove the valve core from the and put what ever the recommended amount of Slime is in the tire. may be best to have the valve at the 8 o'clock position so the slime will run the to bottom of the tire. Put the valve core back in. Once that is done get a rag and wipe the tire sidewalls and the excess rubber from the tube down with soapy water (I used dish soap). This will help create the seal between the tube and the tire. Dont be afraid to get it pretty wet. Then take the wheel and shake it back and forth while rotating to coat the inside of the tire with the slime. Now hook that beast up to a compressor and blast the air into it. There will be some loud snapping sounds and it may take a few times, but it should eventually seal. After you get some air in there shake the tire and rotate again. Maybe top off the air if you havent. You should have cracked open that first beer by now too. Possibly even finished it. Now that the tire is mounted and full of air/sealant crack open beer number two and wait for the tire to dry from the soapy water. After it's dry take the scissors and cut as much of the excess tube that is dangling off as you can. Doesnt need to be perfect, but also do get too close to the rim/tire bead as if could possibly cause the tube to slip into the tire and break your sea. I left about a centimeter of excess tube all the way around just to play it safe. Now you have poor man's tubeless and two less beers! Hooray!

You can carry a spare tube/CO2/Lever rolled up and velcro strapped to your seat rails, or wedge it under your toptube where it meets your downtube and secure it with a velcro strap. I recommend a side of bacon as well.

I keep one of these kits in the trunk

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YMP1SA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

Presta valve core

Valve core remover

If the cores can be removed, there will be flat spots on the section with threads.

If you're worried about punctures, buy removable core tubes, and a Stan's injector and some Stan's no tubes sealant. Inject some sealant in the tubes.

Slime makes a kit that already has that SAE connection, along with another ring terminal adapter, alligator clips, cigar adapter, bottle of slime junk and even a mini tire pressure gauge! Slime 50001

Yes, happens to me frequently. I'll remove the core and use alcohol to clean off some of the sloppier residue. I use Orange Seal, so I can even get little bits of glitter attached to the core.

I also keep around a bag of cores (like this) around in case I get one really gunked up.

I've never had to empty out the sealant, just cleaning up the core has been enough.

And get an appropriate bottle of this for your vehicle. It only works on small punctures, but at $8 it's something you can't afford to not have just in case.

Give one of these a shot! https://www.amazon.com/ILOVA-Extension-Motorcycle-Universal-Extenders/dp/B072WMZDFF/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=bike+pump+extender&qid=1565650227&s=gateway&sr=8-7

You can clean them but I keep a pack of ten from Amazon handy. At $1.10 each bulk, it's worth the time savings to just replace them.

Make sure that when you inflate your tires, you do it with the valve -up- instead of down. Otherwise the slight backflow of your pump will suck more sealant into the core.

if you don't have a local Harbor Freight try Home Depot, Napa, or any automotive supply, also Amazon.

Here’s the bimmerzone version http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/BMW_Performance_Spare_Tire.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwzPXlBRAjEiwAj_XTET1FEftpguYLmtDSUBS75T_F35ov4fH1RO9gVTQpULAJ-LrE0G9fRhoCOD4QAvD_BwE

Here’s the amazon link for the inflator BMW Genuine Factory OEM 71100413439 Tire Mobility Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P5JO5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_uGGVCb4K2Z21Y

Wheel weights can really just go anywhere on the wheel there's a flat enough spot to stick it to, but I try to get it as close to the center as possible. I use stick-on weights, but the guy who I had doing my tires before always used the clamp-on weights. Both seem just fine.

You throw the wheel with tire onto the balancer and the heavy spot will orient itself downward. Add the weights to the light end that is upward. I use a piece of electrical tape to hold weights on temporarily and add them until it's balanced enough that the wheel wont spin on its own. It's not as awesome as those big expensive machines that tell you where to put the weights, but I've personally never had issues. Just takes patience and forethought.

Here are the tool I use:

Rim savers These work very well, but I think if you have spoons that aren't flat and wide like the motion pros it can break the plastic it's made from. Mixed reviews. Some recommend three, but they're sold in pairs. I went ahead and got two sets in case I broke one somehow.

Wheel balancer I had heard horror stories about the cheaper end balancers and figured I'd just do it right the first time and went ahead and got this thing. Very solid piece of equipment.

Two smaller spoons - These work great I think. I have a slight bias toward motion pro since, in my experience, they make good stuff.

Large spoon - It's useful for the last part of the tire if you can't manage it with a shorter spoon. More leverage. Not entirely necessary, but three total spoons is ideal.

Air compressor - To set a bead you need one with a high enough PSI, but this was bought with the air tools in mind. I'm pretty sure it would be overkill for just mounting tires.

Bead breaker - There is a motorcycle specific one that I saw, but it seemed like it was designed for scooter wheels that are much smaller. I saw it in action at a friends house and it works fine as well.

There are competing brands and vendors for everything you can think of, so shop around for whatever you decide on doing. There's a good chance there's a better deal out there on something. I just use amazon for reference.

I carry a spare tube, but I also carry these: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2650-Tubeless-Repair/dp/B000P1RP48

If I am going pretty light and not going crazy far, I just carry those and don't carry a tube. They are so fast to use and not even close to as messy as putting a tube in. You don't have you to take off your tire at all and they are very cheap. When you use them, just make sure you get both holes plugged if there are two (there usually are, one on the top and one near the bead).

I have been running tubeless for a number of years now. Last year I went through about 8 rear tires - each with multiple pinch flats - and I was running (more than) enough pressure. This happened to basically all the tires I tried that weren't DH tires (Exo casings, Schwalbe enduro casings, E13 TRS casing) . For some reason the tire I have on there now has been doing pretty well, which is a Minion DHR2w 2.4.

My point in say all of that is this - carry something with you (carry a tube or at least some tire plugs).

> sell the runflats on craigslist, and use that money to pick up some rims, summer tires, and a nice dinner for yourself tire mobility kit.

FTFY

^^(cheaper, ^^non-BMW-branded ^^alternatives ^^also ^^available)

I think it depends on the gas block. It's somewhere between .025" and .030", pretty sure i did .030" for my Syrac gas block.

I just picked up a feeler gauge from Amazon, i got this one. I'm pretty sure you can pick one up from auto stores like AutoZone and some tool stores like Harbor Freight and Lowe's.

Yeah, much cheaper than a new tire.

i carry the following when i am riding around out of town. basically, if it would take more than an hour or so for my wife to come grab me, I carry my tools. i also carry my kit if im out with my brothers (but then i carry it more because it is my responsibility).

Tool Roll

Tire Pressure Gauge

Tire Kit

First Aid Kit

Zip Ties

Jump start kit

all of this crap gets bundled into an old Tank Bag and strapped to my sissy bar.

These are the tire patches you need to use ( https://www.amazon.com/Hanperal-24Pcs-Rubber-Repair-Patch/dp/B01NADRACD/ref=sr_1_31_sspa?crid=1Q4DRTIQJ8PKR&keywords=tire+repair+kit&qid=1564928285&s=automotive&sprefix=tire+%2Cautomotive%2C135&sr=1-31-spons&psc=1 ) But you do need to remove the tire and put the patch on the inside, The rope plugs are just an emergency get home fix.

GTE Tools - LugStrong 26" Universal Compact Lug Wrench Set, Super-Strong Tire Iron & Lug Nut Remover - 2X More Torque!  Never Get Stuck on The Road Again! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015DJ8A40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3IYRCb714CJ3G

Or

Dorman 711-900 AutoGrade Lug Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SEXO3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3JYRCb55J6KM2

Maxx tracks (or cheaper competitor - $60 on ebay). They sell quick deflators that you set to deflate all 4 tires to the same pressure. From what I understand the 4wd isn't as important as tire surface area on soft sand, so yes you must deflate.
Have fun!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011DF61YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0jhMDbP65AXTH


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332055704323

My vehicle comes from the factory with summer tires and a BMW Tire Mobility Kit . I've used it on a couple of occasions when I woke up to a completely flat tire (nails). I was gobsmacked that the latex and 12V pump worked perfectly to get me on the road (and over to the tire shop to properly patch the tire.)

You can patch a hole like this easily on your own, for what it's worth. You just need a simple tire plug or patch kit like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-20133-Repair-Tackle-9-Piece/dp/B003V9VZBK

You pull the nail out, use the "rough" tool to open the nail hole up to the proper size and clean it out (just jam the tool into the nail hole and pull it out a half dozen times or so). Then you thread the goo strip through the other tool with the needle eye end, squirt some rubber cement onto it all, and jam that into the hole about half way, give it a twist back and forth, and pull it back out, and it will leave the goo covered patch in the nail hole. The rubber cement (which comes with the good kits, or just buy a tube separately) will ensure the repair plug melds with the tire rubber. Trim the excess off, and drive a few miles and the the bump will wear back down smooth, and the tire should hold air as well as it used to when new.

If you can angle the tire in a manner you can reach the hole while it's mounted, you don't even have to take it off the vehicle to put in a plug.

One of these is pretty handy to keep in your glovebox. I also use them for periodic wear checks on cars I own.

10"-12" 45° angled needle nose pliers.

ABN Long Reach 11” Inch 45-Degree Bent Nose Pliers for Hard-to-Reach Narrow Spaces and Limited Clearance Areas https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G1QK1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mWeNBbHCEEV92

Pull tire down as much as possible, grab stem with pliers put through hole, put nut on if it's a metal stem. Put a large oversized cap on that can't fit through the hole if it's a rubber stem.

There are also tools to do this for you. The ones that grab onto the stem where the cap is work ok for rubber valve stems. The ones that require you to remove the valve core and screw into the stem are the ones you want for metal stems.

Feed it through the hole in the wheel, screw on/in to the valve stem, stuff tube in tire, pull handle of tool while wiggling the stem/tube around.

Tire Valve Stem Fishing Tool Puller (With Valve Core Remover) SAVE YOUR KNUCKLES While Installing Inner Tubes, Rim Locks & Off Road Tires on Adventure Motorcycles & Dirt Bikes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GT8FTRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z0eNBbP79E3ZD

Hettig's on Mill St in Williamsville is where I go for advanced stuff (honest, inexpensive, quick, highest rated on Angie's List), but you might consider fixing this on your own. I replaced my own front suspension on a Pontiac Grand Prix without prior experience besides oil and brakes.

Buy a Haynes manual for your car (Amazon and most auto parts stores). [$20]

Buy essential tools if you don't have them: socket set (this will probably be 50% off in a month), deep socket set [metric/SAE], ratchet (if it doesn't come with the set), breaker bar, torque wrench (buy in Sears to make sure it's 'zeroed'), floor jack, jack stands (safety first), chocks (keep the car from rolling backwards while jacked-- essential), pliers, lug wrench (optional if you have the breaker bar and the socket to fit your lug nuts). Many of these can be bought at Harbor Freight without breaking the bank, but don't expect a ratchet or torque wrench from there to last very long. Definitely buy the jack, stands, and chocks there. [$50-100]

Buy a Monroe QuickStrut Strut Assembly [$120-150, depending on vehicle/wheel]. It includes the coil spring that you need as well as a new strut, all in one. This eliminates the need for a coil compressor, which is highly dangerous, especially when used on a busted spring. They carry them in AutoZone/Advance, but you can save a good 30% going through eBay. Just make sure to vet the seller thoroughly. Also be careful: the suspension parts for the 2.4L version of your car don't match those for the 3.0L version. Make sure you triple-check compatibility! If you're feeling adventurous, you might want to replace both front assemblies, as replacing only one might make your front end ever-so-slightly lopsided.

Follow the instructions in the Hayne's manual primarily. Use YouTube as a secondary guide. If you can get your hands on a service/maintenance manual (expensive and hard to get outside of a shop), use that above all. Heed all torque values for all nuts so you don't under or over tighten.

PM me if you have other questions. I've saved easily $1000 doing this by myself, even after buying a ton of tools. And the feeling of accomplishment, knowing you only spent ~$250 for a $600-1000 job, and you got a new strut out of it too, is unbeatable.

EDIT: added links.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011DF61YY/ref=psdcmw_155346011_t1_B00QBPBLWY]
Everyone should have a set, just for these occassions.

These are the best for garage use. https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0007-Curved-Tire/dp/B000GZJ38O

I have this one which I forgot to mention comes with some gloves as well :P I think Continental makes a kit and there are likely some others but I just opted for the OEM one. Even with roadside assistance, the kit isn't a bad thing to have for maintaining your tire pressure alone without necessarily having to go to a gas station.

Not sure how good this one is but comes with pump, slime, and some plugs. Most hybrid cars come with a flat repair kit since they do not have spare tires to save on weight. Make sure you have roadside assistance on your insurance in case of a blow out.

I've done my rubber on my KLR. I have tubes but the process is (I'm guessing) pretty much the same:

1. Lift bike off ground. I have a stand to pick up the entire thing but you can do just one tire at a time. We'll do the front.
   
2. Remove the front axle. Loosen the axle nut and then the pinch bolts. Don't remove the axle nut. Lightly tap the axle nut to slide the axle out the other side. Keep backing the nut off and tapping until you can't back the nut out anymore. Remove the nut and pull the axle, supporting the tire. Inspect axle for wear and place on some shop rags. Remove speedometer cable when removing front tire. DO NOT SQUEEZE THE BRAKES WITH THE TIRE REMOVED. This will cause you problems trying to open your brake calipers back up to get the rotor in again.
   
3. Change your tire. Watch this video for instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAKIuSjPXxA
   
4. Put your front wheel back on, lube your axle.
   
5. Take the back wheel off in a similar fashion. Change the rubber in the same way.
   
6. Adjust your chain, instructions here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqu7WGELU5s
   
   There are some tools to help you:
   
   

• Tire spoons (at least 2)
  
• Valve stem remover
  
• Rim guards
  
• Rim weights
  
• Chain alignment guide
  
  I took a few hours to do mine as it was my first time, but with practice you could probably get it down to less than an hour. I also took the opportunity to clean and lube my chain. I cleaned it with WD40 and dried it off before using chain wax to lubricate. It helps if the chain is a bit warmed up for this.

Not any more mijo!!

Slime 50001 Power Sport Smart Spair
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M8SY0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yAZfzb60CQPQQ

I heard the mushroom-style plugs are better, e.g. this one .

good reveiews

https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1075-Standard-Plugger/dp/B0018EUDHW

I have and have used this on my truck

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=pd_lpo_263_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MVDGZMH8C9SY4QH3X0GV

Looking to get a tire plug kit just in case of an emergency. Is this any good?

Slime 20133 Tire Repair Tackle Kit

The foam would absorb any slime put in for preventive use, but it did not prevent the slime from working to seal up a sizable hole in the tire. I used the 16 oz Slime brand emergency tire sealant for cars: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-10011-Emergency-Sealant-Trailer/dp/B000C11PYW/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=slime+tire&qid=1565785717&s=gateway&sr=8-5

I posted a list on your other thread, but you might also want to invest in a slime kit.

Ah, I gotcha. I like the 3pc Motion Pro tire iron set, though I've never tried spoons: https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0049-Tire-Iron/dp/B000WJFF6S

Also, this thing is a freaking godsend for getting the valve stem through the rim. I even carry it in my tailbag, it's so small and light: https://www.amazon.com/Tire-Valve-Stem-Fishing-Puller/dp/B01GT8FTRK/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1506550143&sr=1-9&keywords=valve+stem+puller

Also, don't forget your rim protectors and valve stem core removal tool.

I just carry a pack of these, attach one or two and walk away.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19860-Tire-Deflator/dp/B002NEUOGG/ref=pd_day0_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5JXHW6J29EAA5KSP16Q3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072WMZDFF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WJEwDb07310QE

I got this because it has a 90 degree. I think that can help with the turning. I don’t know yet until I receive the valve extended

I used this kit recently to replace the rear tire on my 350. I would recommend getting a 3rd tire iron if finances allow, it really makes it easier.

As for breaking the bead, I just used a couple large c-clamps.

In addition to a scissor jack as suggested by /u/JayNorthpen, get a lug wrench. Often the ones supplied with the car are crap. Either get the kind with folding arms, or just a plain cross type. Here are 2 examples:

Any ladies reading this keep in mind that the weaker you are the larger you want the wrench to be.


Lug Wrench

Folding Lug Wrench

Scissor Jack

I'm not giving you gold after you go on Autozone and find 13 tire irons, one lug wrench incorrectly labelled a tire iron, and then try to tell me I'm wrong. When you type tire iron into the Autozone search, it even shows a link to both a tire iron and a lug wrench because they're so often confused. http://www.autozone.com/tire-repair-and-tire-wheel/tire-iron?filterByKeyWord=tire+iron&fromString=search

edit: The "tire iron" you listed has the wrong picture. If you google the model number you find the right picture. https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AGIPortalWeb/WebSource/ProductDisplay/globalProductDetailDisplay.do?item_code=KTL34847


http://www.amazon.com/Core-Tools-CT118-Tire-Iron/dp/B00NIKN2BS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-2&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Core-Tools-CT116-Tire-Iron/dp/B00NIKN2G8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-4&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Ken-Tool-32116-16-Tire-Iron/dp/B000J1Y33A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-5&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Ken-Tool-34645-Mount-Demount-Tire/dp/B000MIUJNI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-6&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0007-Curved-Tire/dp/B000GZJ38O/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-7&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-005-Tire-Iron/dp/B009D3E36W/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-9&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Ken-Tool-32114-Piece-Small-Tire/dp/B000OCT7FI/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-10&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0115-Spoon-Type/dp/B000QG0AKI/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-13&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0049-Tire-Iron/dp/B000WJFF6S/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-14&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Core-Tools-CT108-Spoon-Type/dp/B00O8RWI6K/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-15&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Three-Spoon-Motorcycle-Levers-Changing/dp/B004NV6FE2/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-16&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Ken-Tool-33220-Curved-Tire-Iron/dp/B000J1AT10/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828611&sr=8-17&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0409-Spoon-Type/dp/B000QFVJ5O/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828611&sr=8-18&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Steel-Irons-08-0006/dp/B000RG723U/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828611&sr=8-21&keywords=tire+iron

Thanks for the post. As someone who is a new homeowner in FL and lived here through Matthew and Irma but not through mass devastation, this helps me understand what that looks like.

Your comments about tire repair struck me. I am planning on ordering this well-reviewed plugger. What air pump do you have?

In regards to cleanliness I keep some body wipes too, but for helping larger amounts of people I definitely see the value of the shower + soap.

For the gas can, check out this one - much safer than the plastic cans and I am very happy with the flexibility of the nozzle. I'll likely get a long funnel for it too, just in case.

i recommend the stop and go for repairs like this.

You can pick up a tire tread depth gauge. Tire Rack has a decent guide. IIRC, ~3/32" is the, "I should probably replace this tire" threshold.

This is the feeler gauge I bough: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T86ADZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The reviews were good so I just went with it. Can feeler gauges really vary that much from retailers?

Let them have the spot. Then come back and put these on. It's not permanent damage but sends a strong message.

Deflating tire caps.

Keep one of these with you. In situations like this, just give their valve-stem a quarter turn counter-clockwise.

This is the first one I tried:
ILOVA 90 Degree Tyre Valve Extension Adaptor for Car Motorcycle Bike Scooter 2 Pack Universal Extenders https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072WMZDFF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AX8lDb93P2YR1
Works ok, but the part that screws on to the valve spins independently of the rest of the adapter which still makes it a little tough to unscrew quickly from the front tire. Definitely still better than the one that came with my M365 though.



This is the one I’m currently waiting on. Looks like the whole adapter will spin on and off the valve giving plenty of room to work with. Don’t have it yet though, so can’t say if it’s better or worse yet.
US $0.88 23％ Off | 1 Pc Aluminum Alloy Bicycle Valve Extender For Schrader Valve Replacement Cycling Bike Parts Accessories 38mm Extension Tube
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/SgY4Adi

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000YMP1SA

The one I got was only $20 and was simpler, but you get the idea. We have no spare and it's very important to have correct tire pressure. Grab a digital tire pressure gauge while you're at it. Try to check your pressure every couple of weeks, especially during seasonal changes such now.

On the oil, since we use pure synthetic, we only change our oil every 15k miles. The turbos apparently eat oil, and i usually have to add a quart about midway through.

Seriously?

I thought that was a recipe for disaster and injury.

I got one of these for each car & feel much more comfortable with it on hand:

GTE Tools - LugStrong 26" Universal Compact Lug Wrench Set, Super-Strong Tire Iron & Lug Nut Remover - 2X More Torque!  Never Get Stuck on The Road Again! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015DJ8A40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9ZH3BbVMJV3MS

I threw this in the trunk, (https://www.amazon.com/Slime-70004-Power-Spair-Repair/dp/B000YMP1SA/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1473417189&sr=1-2&keywords=Slime+kit)

Haven't had to use it yet though.

Stop and go tire plug kit (And small compressor)

https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1075-Standard-Plugger/dp/B0018EUDHW/

Or you could get regular tires and one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Factory-71100413439-Mobility/dp/B000P5JO5M).

Yeah, I use a tread depth gauge like this one

With this

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-20133-Repair-Tackle-9-Piece/dp/B003V9VZBK/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3W08047B0FIQU&keywords=tire+plug+kit&qid=1567800384&s=gateway&sprefix=allan+par%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-5

I heard good things about these things:

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-10009-Tubeless-Tire-Sealant/dp/B000BOC2E2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416623639&sr=8-1&keywords=green+tire+slime

I never had to use it myself fortunately, but it seems like it'll get you to the nearest tire place (kind of like run flats).

Fill them with nitrogen. You will have far less of a problem with temperature caused pressure differential. It's not at every gas station, but there's bound to be one within a few miles of where you live that has it.

I'd also recommend this to anyone that can afford it. It's a bit pricey, but it's not just for BMW. It's an air compressor that plugs into your outlet. It also has built in fix-a-flat type latex solution for small punctures that you can switch on. The solution used in this kit is much easier to clean out of the tire than that green goo, and will give you a much better chance at patching a hole later rather than having to buy a new tire.

Here you go: Slime 20133 Tire Repair Tackle Kit (9-Piece Set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V9VZBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_08GCCb7SN1HFB

Of course you’re risking catastrophic failure but blah blah blah you’ll be fine.

I carry this one wherever I go:

https://smile.amazon.com/Slime-20133-Repair-Tackle-9-Piece/dp/B003V9VZBK?sa-no-redirect=1

It doesn't come with rubber cement though. I like to put rubber cement on the rubber plug strings before I insert them into the tire so I also bought some small tubes of rubber cement to keep in the case with the rest of the tools.

I've used this kit more times than I care to count over the past 100K miles and it's always worked for me. The plastic case on mine is pretty beat up from banging around in my top case while riding off road so I use tape to make sure it stays shut under harsh conditions.

Here's the update:

I bought this slime and put about 3oz in it yesterday. It didn't lose any air overnight. Just finished riding it 14 miles this morning and it's still good!

If you're running tubeless you probably should be running sealant in your tires. Fat tires are pretty thin skinned and puncture easily in my experience. Stans, Orange, Slime are all popular brands.

If you get a hole that won't seal there are plug kits like this that can be installed from the outside, or patches like these that install on the inside.

And now I'm enlightened too

Presta valve core tool:
"A bespoke tool for removing and replacing presta valve cores, The LifeLine valve core remover helps prevent over-tightening and splitting of valve stem."

Presta valve:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presta_valve

presta valve core: https://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Presta-Valve-Cores-Bag/dp/B0028N8DGU

Press valve stem:. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valve_stem

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-940558-Universal-Lug-Wrench/dp/B004KED8CO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419068365&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+iron

Yaaaaaassss. I hate the hockeystick wrenches so much. "They said we had to include a wrench that's theoretically capable of removing a lugnut. Here you go. Good luck." 🙄

I couldn't find my trusty 4-way recently, so I ended up buying one of these bad boys, but their photos suck so see the photos on this overpriced listing.

It's only a little better than a traditional 4-way, but the addition of the 1/2" square drive means you can include your own socket if you need a weird size, and I like the ergonomics slightly better too. Compact storage is just a bonus.

Give me that tire, ill patch it with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Hanperal-24Pcs-Rubber-Repair-Patch/dp/B01NADRACD/ref=ac_session_sims_263_6/143-0580517-3522411?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01NADRACD&pd_rd_r=0bca7616-e92c-4ef8-ade2-f6b278d4fb01&pd_rd_w=uxM4R&pd_rd_wg=4axvf&pf_rd_p=48085047-4138-436e-b581-f015f2ded99a&pf_rd_r=WFRXNG983ZMX3DNYKNPS&psc=1&refRID=WFRXNG983ZMX3DNYKNPS

Bit tougher with foam insert in tesla specific tire but completely doable.

I am not knowledgeable, i just dealt with it couple of times with tires nails.

Sidewall damage(nail in the sidewall of the tire), must replace for safety to avoid blowout when you hit a bump. Sidewall material are thinner because it flexes.


There are tire plug kit (https://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe-50002L-Universal-Punctures-Motorcycles/dp/B002I52RG0/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=tire+plug&qid=1572574280&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&sr=8-6) , but it requires massive force to shove the plug in and pull it out while leaving plug attached (think of it plug filling the hole to seal the ). This is not really recommended and not exactly safe imo. You are better off bringing to tire shop and tell them to patch it completely (beware some will just plug it because is easier for them, always ask for patch plug combo. Patch plug look like this https://www.amazon.com/Hanperal-24Pcs-Rubber-Repair-Patch/dp/B01NADRACD). Requires to remove the tire off the rim and shave the inside tread to make a better seal.

I also went here https://www.amazon.com/Hanperal-24Pcs-Rubber-Repair-Patch/dp/B01NADRACD something like that with the right adhesive.

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-50001-Power-Sport-Smart/dp/B000M8SY0I

There are versions that work with TPMS Systems now.

Edit:
Product: Slime Tire Sealant (Sensor Safe)

Listing for 16-ounce Bottle on Amazon (4 of 5 stars for customer reviews)

Or... https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-19860-Tire-Deflator/dp/B002NEUOGG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550621426&sr=8-4&keywords=tire+deflator+cap

Next buy this and stop using paper to set your nozzle height.

Stiffer springs help so you dont have to level as often. Use nuts under the bed instead of springs and you never have to deal with spring sag.

Uhhh .... why would you buy an entire new set of tires if one has a leak?

Did you try going to a different mechanic?

Or maybe use a product like this ?