(Part 3) Best wrenches according to redditors
We found 1,536 Reddit comments discussing the best wrenches. We ranked the 730 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
These sick colored hex keys. I've worked as a bike mechanic and we used the black version so I can personally vouch for the quality being pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FBFI53S/ref=ox_sc_act_image_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Checkout Tekton, can get all their stuff on Amazon and I've been very pleased with the stuff I have from them. Best part is for the most part they don't skip sizes in their sets like other cheap stuff.
Check out, TEKTON Combination Wrench Set with Store and Go Keeper, Metric, 8 mm - 22 mm, 15-Piece | 18792 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZJN3PQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YfpWAbSSBGA74
I have this set and a couple others. They have been awesome.
That's a great bike to start with. I started off with a bike in much worse condition.
I usually start off by giving the bike a quick wash. Just water and some dish soap to get off all dust and loose dirt. After that I dry it with an old towel.
Then comes the tear down. I put it on my stand and remove the wheels and set them aside. Then I just start cutting off all the cables (brakes and derailleur). After that, the chain gets it. I use the Park chain tool.
Then its on to removing the derailleurs, cranks, stem/bars, brakes, etc. Rear derailleurs are mostly removable with a 5mm allen wrench. Front derailleurs, too, although some of the older ones may just have a hex head. The seat post binder bolt is usually 5mm, also. Hopefully it isn't stuck. If it is, just come back and ask for methods.
Onto the stem and handlebars. To remove the stem, just loosen up the bolt up top a couple turns and tap it with a hammer and hopefully it slides out without a fight. Then remove the brake levers from the bar, then the bar from the stem.
I use this tool for the allen bolts. Park AWS 10
To remove the pedals from the cranks, I use a snap-on 15mm wrench. Remember, the pedal on the left side is reverse-threaded.
The bolt (or nut) on the crank arms is most likely 14mm and on much older bikes sometimes 15mm. I use a 14mm socket with a ratchet.
Removing the cranks from the bottom bracket spindle can be a pain sometimes. The tool to remove them is a crank puller. I use the park ccp-22. Make sure the threads are clean on the crank apply a little grease on the tool. Try to make the tool screw in the most it can and don't cross-thread. Aim to get the tool to bottom-out on the crank. Then you start spinning the handle and then you'll get a little workout on your arms.
By this point I usually just have a frame, fork, headset, and bottom bracket left. I'm tired so I'll just stop typing for now, heh.
Ask If you need any help. Someone will gladly help you here and see if you have a local bike co-op/ kitchen nearby. They could be a great asset.
Craftsman is junk; Husky is decent; Snap On is overpriced.
I re-tooled last summer from my old Williams set. Here's what I wound up with:
-Snap On GF80: 3/8" drive ratchet, got it off ebay for $50. I probably wouldn't buy again, but it is very nice.
-Pittsburgh Pro extendable 1/2" drive and flex-head 1/4" ratchets: Less than $20 each, and they are 90% as good as the Snap On. I would probably buy the 3/8" instead of the Snap On, if I had to do it over again.
-Pittsburgh Pro 1/2" drive impact sockets: These boys have taken some abuse at this point, and other than the etching having been stripped off of a couple (see abuse above), they are still in great shape. $25 for shallow, $32 for deep, Metric or SAE.
-GearWrench 3/8" drive impact sockets: $60 for a pretty complete (8mm-19mm + 21mm, 5/16"-3/4") set, and they are very thin-walled so you don't really need chrome.
-Pittsburgh Pro 3/8" chrome (shallow only): $9/set for 12-point sockets, which is the only reason I got them.
-Pittsburgh Pro 1/4" chrome sockets, shallow and deep: Overpriced, really, but I got the color-coordinated ones which are pretty cool. I might go for a cheaper set if I had to do it again. $8-9/set.
-GearWrench Long Pattern Wrench Set: I got the 22-piece Metric set (6mm-32mm with some skips) for $97; I haven't bothered to get the SAE set, I just have a handful of Pittsburgh SAE wrenches on a wrench ring.
And a big rally box to put it all in. I bet you could get all of it for under $500 if you use coupons at Harbor Freight and shop around for the GearWrench stuff.
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I also got a DeWalt cased set to keep in my trunk:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1-4-in-x-3-8-in-Drive-Polished-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set-200-Piece-DWMT75000/206510555
But I had to add some wrenches (it has 10mm, 11mm, 13mm and 14mm; wtf?!) to my trunk bag to make it "complete," and even then it has some oddness to it (3/8" drive starts at 14mm, so you'd better not have any really tight 12mm bolts...) so it might not be what you are looking for, but they make a few different sets.
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Other things I considered:
https://www.amazon.com/Williams-50614-2-Inch-Socket-146-Piece/dp/B00HR1Q5F4
$320 for a complete Williams socket set, but the wrenches are about the same...
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This might be the "bang for the buck" winner, simply for the completeness of the socket sets:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYZ2IJ5
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDO6L90
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZJN3PQ
$270 ($180 for 1/2", $88 for 1/4" and 3/8") for a staggeringly complete set (10mm-32mm in 1/2" drive, shallow and deep, with no skips!) and then $42/set for the wrenches, 8mm-22mm.
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https://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-KDT-80942-239-Piece/dp/B00OL2XFLO
GearWrench socket, wrench and allen key set, $210 for a whole bunch of tools, although they aren't the high-tooth-count ratchets.
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https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hand-tool-sets/301-pc-mechanics-tool-set-63464.html
Then there's this thing. It is actually quite well reviewed, and surprisingly complete on the socket side, if a little short on wrenches. It's usually on sale for $160.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056E11QW
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BT0AYG0
...and then there's the dream: If I could get away with having this stripped-down of a set... $600 for a very nice, but fairly bare-bones set. No deep-well, no 3/8" drive at all (hello, super-tight 12mm bolts!), and only great big long extensions... if you never need to get into really tight spaces, maybe. The 3/8" drive set is another $260 on top of this, and still doesn't have short extensions or deep-well sockets.
IceToolz Ocarina Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015DJGECA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XCilDbVMJTM74
You can spend a lot more, but you don’t really need to, for basic home mechanic use.
Note that the torque wrenches you’re looking at, including this one, are at the lower end of what you need, to do everything on a bike. 2-10 Nm won’t cover things like cassettes and bottom brackets, which have higher torque specs.
It is a basin wrench
I've been using an Ingersoll Rand 20v for over a year now with no problems. I'll never go back to air.
https://www.amazon.com/Vim-Products-HBR5-ToolsHBR5-Ratchet/dp/B003TSMQWU/
Used to find them from Husky tools. Take it apart, heat and bend, put it back together. I have two. One molested, one unmolested.
I was just looking at a 3piece craftsman prybar set at the store which was on sale for $30some odd dollars. It was down from $40something odd dollars.
Started looking online and ran into this 3 piece pry bar. Look familiar?
Same thing is going on with this tekton torque wrench i found its twin here
The strongest one I have used is the Ingersol, it's actually strong enough to arguably replace a pneumatic.
I have the Milwaukee 2860 because it's strong enough for a lot of work and I already use a handful of Milwaukee tools (1/4" hex impact, 2 drills, right angle drill, 12v bore scope, drill, impact, couple others). For me it was a convenience and price issue. I don't feel the Milwaukee cordless tools are any lower quality than the Makita counterparts, they are cheaper (Milwaukee, Ryobi, and Rigid are all owned by a Chinese company and made in China, Makita is still privately owns and builds all over the world). I like the gun, I use it alot, it will do lugs and stuff, but it's working hard and I usually don't do that with it. I use it out of convenience, but I wouldn't say it's ballsy enough to replace a pneumatic.
If you don't have pneumatic to fall back on when you need to, I'd say the IR is the way to go.
>Just keep one of those swiss army Allen tools. You know what I'm talking about.
I know exactly what you're talking about
As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...
Hand Tools
Power Tools
Also, there are fluids to consider
Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.
Get a Wiha 35392 metric Allen key set for $10 and forevermore have peace of mind.
I've had a few of these over the years.
Are you in Hixson? harbor freight sells a 1/4 wrench that will go that low. With coupon about $11.
This is a great tool that you need if you don't have one. Lasts a lifetime really.
http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-M195-Newton-meter-Torque/dp/B00SNICDJC/ref=sr_1_34?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1462125704&sr=1-34&keywords=1%2F4%22+torque
Here's an old post I had from /r/homeimprovement regarding a new home, hope it helps.
I'm sure there's more, but it's midnight and I'm sleepy.
Dude, you should see my Amazon wish list......full of Wera stuff, but yeah, my wallet cringes each time I start browsing Wera. Really want these and this and these (although I have the same set, just with less bits) and these and this and this to put it all in..........that's like half the wishlist 😆
That fancy Park Tools hex wrench is 8 bucks. The screwdrivers are what, 2 dollars each?.
I don't understand going through all the trouble of cutting those steel wires for less than 12 bucks worth of tools that are not even new. Assholes.
Bought these 3 years ago, they are still sharp :) Be careful with power drivers...
Now is the time to buy a decent set of hand tools, I wish I could go back to A&P school and get that sweet discount. It was 50% when I was in school and I bought a nice 42" roller cabinet and probably $3,500 in hand tools. I wish I had bought more, the problem was I obviously had no idea what I would actually need/want but a good basic set of combination wrenches up to 1", angle wrenches, 1/4 and 3/8" socket sets shallow and deep should be on the list. Also snap on makes a nice ratcheting screw driver, standard size and stubby size you should buy, you will get tons of use out of them and I rarely if ever use my standard screwdrivers. Other than that ask what the instructors or go and actually talk to someone working in the field somewhere and ask to see their boxes and ask them what tools they recommend. I'd recommend against the big pre-packaged sets since there is a bunch of shit in there that you would rarely use. Also craftsman does (or at least used to) have a "professional" line of hand tools that are very high quality and a good bit less expensive than the snap-on stuff, I've got a few of those ratchets and like them a lot. Make sure you buy high quality tools, this is something that you will be using every day, sure some cheap wrenches fit a nut like the expensive ones but the expensive ones are a little longer, polished and cast/machines to tighter tolerances. The extra $50-$100 spent is well worth not busting your knuckles when the wrench/socket slips off or your hands wear raw from using unpolished tools.
Also, buy one of these and thank me later. You'll use it almost every day.
https://www.amazon.com/Vim-Products-HBR5-ToolsHBR5-Ratchet/dp/B003TSMQWU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
The cost of a plumber got me thinking about a specific tool, a basin wrench , that basically makes it a bazillion times easier (and cheaper) to tighten the big awkward nut that attaches the base of your sink doohickies to the underside of your sink/kitchen counter. Probably a lot of tools out there that make diy repairs a lot easier.
You've got the wrench positioned on what you need to turn, but you need a longer-handle wrench. And you'll need to loosen both sides. Fitting a wrench on on the drive side might be tricky--you'd want a thin wrench to fit in there, or maybe you can take the gear shift mechanism off to get it out of they way. A basic open-ended wrench might fit. And adjustable wrench is less likely to fit, but might, especially a slim jaw one.
But that chain looks shot. I would go ahead and replace it. A single speed chain is cheap. You could even spring for a KMC "rustbuster" chain and be less likely to have this problem in the future. Regular lubing of the chain would also help avoid it in the future.
Did research last year, and found that, like you said, most of them get mixed review. I wanted one that could do multiple different torques, and didn't cost a lot. I settled on the Ice Toolz Ocarina $25ish
Order the parts and bring them in to install.
cassette $25
chainring $9
chain $21
koolstop pads pair $8
EDIT: Or do it yourself...
BB tool
cassette lockring tool
chain tool
allen wrenches
Torque Wrench
My stand: Feedback Sports Sport Stand I love it. Feels really well built and is very easy to collapse and set up.
Tekton are the cheapest I'd go for click torque wrenches. They're a great brand at a very competitive price point. Beam-style torque wrenches can be had for cheaper if you're into that. They're great as well. Reliable, simple, and don't require recalibration. I just prefer the usability of click personally.
For 3/8 impact sockets go with the Sunex 3342 master set. It has both SAE and Metric and comes with both short and deep well for $68 and they're made from Cr-Mo instead of Cr-V like the Tekton ones are.
Edit: For wrenches check out the Tekton 18772 and 18792 sets, I own both of these sets and like them a lot and just now noticed that they're on sale right now.
https://www.amazon.com/IceToolz-Ocarina-Torque-wrench-3-10/dp/B015DJGECA
^ I use this one personally but its the only one I've used. Portable and holds multiple bits.
Tool kits are generally not a good idea. They often have a lot of tools you don't need, and they tend to be fairly low quality (especially at the price point you're looking at). For what you're trying to do, you only need 4 tools - a metric Allen key set, crank puller, splined BB tool, and Hollowtech BB tool. The crank puller and splined BB tool you probably will never use again, so going cheap on those is fine. But you definitely want a good Allen key set and a good Shimano BB tool is nice to have as well. I'd recommend these items:
Square taper BB removal tool
Crank Puller
Hollowtech II Wrench
Metric Allen keys
Similarly the VIM version. Very low profile and no extra parts needed
Here is the desktop version of your link
I thought I could get away without these when I was building my first kit. After about three hours, my hands were throbbing from trying to use the low-quality tools that I had.
Get the right tool for the job. Buy once, cry once. You'll never need to buy another set in your life.
Here's a link to the set that I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7DK0NY
I was nervous that the Bondhus wrenches wouldn't be as good as the fancy Silca ones. And indeed the shafts of the smaller ones are not perfectly straight. However this has had absolutely 0 impact on how easy they are to use. The Bondus set rocks and is super cheap. https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10999-Balldriver-L-wrenches-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4AEM
Here is a good ranking of all they types of wrenches out there
I have owned one in the 10+ years of doing live shows and events, and I still use my basic c-wrench. I find that it is too long, so it does not sit in my chalk bag/back pocket all that well. And is only good if the show I am loading in is all conventional with standard C-clamps.
I do too many shows that use mega clamps, or cheeseboros on their instruments/pipes. So instead of me having to carry a c-wrench in addition to the lighting wrench, I just skip the lighting wrench.
I do carry the small combo wrench for focus. And that does the job nicely.
Another note. The light speed wrench tends to cause FNG's to wrench to hard down on a c-clamp. Causing them to dig in and damage aluminum truss cords.
How accurate do you need it to be? Something like this might work to get a quick reference or for a little more accuracy
I highly recommend an electronic torque wrench.
The mechanical ones are very inaccurate at the bottom end of range. Head bolts are often at the bottom or below what they can even be set to.
I use this one and it works amazingly well. It can accurately go down to 3ftlb. You can set the desired torque and it has a beep alarm as you approach, reach, and go over the threshold. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUKTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also recommend flying with a very basic set of tools. I fly with some hex keys and wrench that fits all the sizes on my paramator. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F512F74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Siphon is nice to get fuel out of paramotor. This one works amazingly for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKW15ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Radio chest harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HJKSG8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I added a draw cord to attach my phone to. Phone then tucks into the velcro pocket and is secured by one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4E9Z6O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's powerful enough to draw in a medium weight phone.
Hook knife: https://superflyinc.com/products/jack-the-ripper-hook-knife
Power floats: https://glidersports.com/shop/powerfloat-2bsure/
Waste flotation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013RLI9XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cut prop tape strips out of this: https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Clear-Paint-Protection-60-inches/dp/B004VG8DS0/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534535837&sr=1-9&keywords=3m+scotchgard
RTV silicon to put on exhaust springs to reduce vibration fatigue: https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-500%C2%B0RTV-High-Silicone-Black/dp/B000H5Y6CQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1534352404&sr=1-5&keywords=heat+resistant+silicon+rtv
Motor tachometer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GTP6ORC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Radio: I recommend the FT60 or FT65. The 60 model is tried and true and can also be modded to RX aviation band. FT65 has newer display and is cheaper having been made in China.
Haha, yes! I personally like the DeWalt stuff (I like their drills/bit too). Something like this would probably work very well. Comes with a handle too if you don't have a drill.
You want this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ATKWJY
It's available from JB Tool Sales and Micro-Tools for $5.95 and free shipping, which is lower than the direct from amazon price oddly enough.
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10999-Balldriver%C2%AB-L-wrenches-1-5-10mm/dp/B0006O4AEM
That should cover you for a lot of bike stuff. Bondhus is a really respectable American brand. It's on Amazon, and their stuff is really affordable, but it's not cheap Amazon crap. Make sure you buy directly from Amazon for the seller, and avoid Amazon Warehouse.
Well definitely get this as you'll never regret having a nice set of hex keys and every fixed gear owner needs a Lockring Tool.
Grease and chain oil are also missing from that set and mission critical if you don't already have them.
For the crankset that kit should have you covered
Haven't seen it mentioned here but whatever you buy, get yourself a decent hex driver kit. I always recommend the MIP Thorp kit. There are a couple other quality brands, but I've had these for years and years. If you go cheap here (or worse, use regular allen wrenches) you will be stripping out screw heads left and right and that will absolutely take away from the fun.
Gearwrench. https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81919-44-Piece-Non-Ratcheting-Combination/dp/B00H2W7LVK/ref=sr_1_24?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1540036597&sr=1-24&keywords=wrench+set
Tekton. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Combination-Wrench-Keeper-Metric/dp/B00OZJN3PQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1540036468&sr=1-5&keywords=wrench+set&dpID=51%252BDoXrWhZL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
I don't like a raised panel wrench. You could also keep an eye out for craigslist snap ons or Mac.
I use the AC-Delco electronic ones. They come with calibration results that show they are very accurate at their minimum reading.
As others have said, gauges typically aren't accurate at low/high readings.
Wideazz is very nice. I tend to grab knipex plier wrench more though.
Yes, get a better allen key set. I have a few of these and they are high quality and fits the screws perfectly. (No spinning or stripping)
I like the channel lock wide azz or even just the normal non wide azz ones if you need bigger than 8 inches. they are made in Spain by Irega and I have never had any issues with them.
Wiha metric and/or inch sets in BIFL quality and guaranteed.
Comes with a holder, and I find I don't misplace quality tools.
Ingersoll Rand makes a BAD ASS impact gun, over 700 lb-ft of torque and it has amazing ratings. Check it: here!
OP, I've replied a few different times in this thread but forgot to share my own knowledge. A year ago I broke my torque wrench and did an obscene amount of research. I ended up buying this one on Amazon for under $30. It's less expensive than most, but from everything my research told me it was the exact same type as another, more expensive torque wrench. (I can't remember the name, maybe it was a Tekton.)
I've been using it on bikes for the last year and it's worked great.
They do make one that has a more reasonable torque range for bikes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUKTC
It's nice in that it measures torque for left-handed threads as well. I use it for pedals and bottom brackets mostly.
Like /u/jrm2191 said, Park Tool make some... comprehensive tool sets. Those prices are enough to make me choke, though. Your son's riding a ~$400 bike - I don't know how I would wrap my head around buying an $800 tool set, or even a $300 one.
But the tool sets are a good way to think about what tools you should buy. I'd get a basic tool set, fill in gaps, and upgrade selectively. What I'd do, in no particular order, would look like...
At this point I would start thinking about upgrading the tools that your son will use all the time. The thing that stands out for me is hex tools. He might use Torx screws, but he'll definitely use metric hex tools
Then probably nice meaty tire levers to make replacing tires and tubes easier
If you were looking to spend $300 or that range, then you'll notice you're way under that target. Feel free to start adding on some random nice things, like a portable multi-tool, which will pay off if he has an issue while out on a ride.
I'm running out of things that aren't "consumable" (like brake cables, housing, etc...), so for my last recommendation, nitrile work gloves! (they'll make cleanup a breeze)
There are tons of other things you could get (a bike stand, for instance) but at this point I'm getting a bit out of control. and there are tools I assume you have (e.g. a good screwdriver), but at some point I need to stop.
And obviously feel free to mix and match whatever components you can afford/feel comfortable spending that much money on. One thing that might help would be to talk with him about what kind of work he does on his bike. He might be in desperate need of hex tools, but not treating himself to nice hex wrenches. That could be your quick, easy, cheap answer. Or similarly he might be nervously tightening bolts without a torque wrench, even in places that call for very precise amounts of torque. Again, easy answer regarding what to prioritize.
Best of luck
edit: totals didn't add up right, sorry!
I picked these up a few days ago. Amazing quality for the price, wish I'd just bought a decent set from the outset.
Usually if you buy a new bike from a shop, they'll offer free tune-ups. I have no idea what that includes, though it probably doesn't include too much of adjusting your bike to fit you - I assume it's more things like truing the wheel (making it straight if it starts to wobble) and re-adjusting the shifting and brakes.
Honestly I think it's good to get handy with an allen wrench & screwdriver, and learn to adjust whatever you can yourself. Self-sufficiency and all. With all the videos on YouTube these days, there's nothing you can't learn. There are bike "repair stations" around campus, some of which haven't had all their tools stolen yet (though as far as I know, none of the tire pumps work anymore), that might at least be a step up from turning your bike upside down outside your dorm for some adjustments.
Here is a tuning kit
> do the weights matter if I get some stage six one or some generic ones
Unless you are racing a decent set (of 6) is probably $10 or you can go fancy and get $15 ones. NCY weights are more like $20 but I'd consider that high end fancy schmancy.
It's worth noting that your weights should be inspected/changed every 1000 or so miles anyway, so if you bought used it would probably be good to go ahead and change them. Here is a very good GY6 service manual too BTW
You will likely also (arguably) need a torque wrench for reassembling the transmission and a clutch holder. If you don't have these you can get by using other methods or a strap wrench
Its worth noting there are also sliders that you can use instead of rollers. If it makes any difference probably has to do with the slope in your variator and the design of the slider. There are many, many different combinations.
I found one source that says:
> "for every .5 grams heavier , it seems as if you loose about 250 rpms or so. Maybe a little less. "
but I cannot say if that is accurate or not.
You might also be able to change your variator to get a little bit more difference as well. As with changing weights its something some people seem to swear by and others say does nothing. Either way companies like NCY make nice parts that may be lighter and generate less/dissapate more heat, last longer, and offer a smoother ride than stock parts. If you go this route you can usually do it one piece at a time.
I'm still pretty new to all this though :-O so by all means if someone sees I said something inaccurate let me know!
Honestly, if i ever get a cordless half inch impact, its going to be this, a tech at work has that snap on one, its pretty good, but for the price id rather get the IR
Extra battery costs $80? No thanks. I'll let it sit on the charger for an hour.
http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-W7150-K1-High-Torque-Impactool-Charger/dp/B007LHJI4E/ref=pd_cp_hi_1
(A spare battery is actually $100 o_o I think I'd probably get a generic battery and replace it sooner.)
Not necessary, but if you do get one get a preset or beam type rather than a cheap clicker.
To go along with the allen keys that you will definitely need I highly recommend some Bondhus Allen Keys. A lot of people on the internet like them a lot, especially for cycling needs.
There's the colored set I linked and also a silver/gold/black set. Really high quality and relatively cheap. I think individual keys are much more handy when working with a bike. There's a imperial set on Amazon too, most bike happen to be in metric though and that's what I linked.
What kind of experience are you guys coming into this with?
Do you have mentors/are you yourselves familiar with the use and safety precautions necessary around power tools?
What kind of space are you in? Do you have a dedicated space to use or do you need to move things in and out of an area every meeting?
How much do you want to learn? Are you planning on using primarily Matrix/Tetrix this season or do you want to do custom fabrication?
If you're planning on using chain, I'd recommend getting at least one of these (Dark Soul #25 chain tool). You won't need to use master links again, and they're just in general great to have around.
I would definitely recommend getting Anderson Powerpole tools and items. Definitely get a TriCrimp and associated wire, connectors, and contacts, if you don't have them already.
I'd also recommend a few tools that come in useful just in general when it comes to FTC-- a good adjustable wrench is good to have around, whether you're doing custom or not. A ratcheting screwdriver is also good to have around, in addition to more standard versions. I'd also recommend my personal favorite allen wrenches (you can get just metric or standard sets, but I linked the paired version). For taking care of stuck bolts or anything else stuck, a good pair of locking pliers are also great. Also getting some good pliers for all your electrical needs is a good idea. Also extremely useful is a good square. On a similar note, a level is good for checking whether you actually bolted that part on straight.
You should also get a general set of combo wrenches and some of the specific sizes most common for FTC. Pretty much any reputable brand is fine for this-- don't spend more than about $50 for a set and $10 for an individual wrench (honestly, that would be super high, you should probably target half of that). A decent ratchet set is also good, but not absolutely essential.
Other good things to have around are a heat gun or heat bar (for doing custom plastic parts for your robot). You can do some great stuff with some creativity and some sheet polycarbonate.
To go with that, a vinyl cutter is great for doing sponsor decals and general cool stuff.
As far as "essentials" go, that depends on where you want to go. If you want to do lots of custom work-- or use something like 80/20, then you'll want some other tools to do that work. A good power drill is absolutely essential, and if you have the space, I'd definitely recommend getting a solid miter saw and an aluminum cutting blade (I know some people consider them too dangerous, but with proper safety training and precautions, I've never had a student or mentor get injured with one).
As far as materials for doing custom work go, I'd recommend getting some box aluminum (1x1 and 1x2) tubing, 1/8" and 1/16" polycarbonate (I'm partial to the dark tinted stuff, but it's a bit more expensive), and a full assortment of #6 and maybe #8 hardware. You'll also want some M3 screws for face mounting AndyMark and REV robotics motors. I like to use Copper State for this, because while they have a totally garbage web ordering system, their prices are great, and their website isn't that bad (to be honest, I'm a bit spoiled by McMaster-Carr).
You probably don't need me to tell you what kind of COTS parts might be good (if that's within the scope of this money). Electronics, good phones (not those stupid ZTEs), motors, are all good.
You'll notice that I'm not suggesting the very budget stuff-- while you can go that direction if you need to, quality tools help you get quality results. If you have the money to get and use the right tools for the job, I always recommend doing that as opposed to cheaping out with something you'll just end up breaking and messing up your robot with later.
A decent chunk of the tools I linked are suggested by my personal favorite review site, The WireCutter/SweetHome. I've used the majority of them, and my experience has been good enough that I don't have an issue recommending their suggestions for other tools relevant to FTC.
Hopefully that was somewhat helpful. I'd definitely consider the answers to the questions at the top-- they can help you narrow down what will actually be useful for you. I can definitely give more specific suggestions if you know what direction you're taking with robot building techniques and how much space you have/ whether you have to move.
You can buy one with multiple sizes, like this :
Allen wrench multi tool
Wera 05022639001 L-key-Set for 950 SPKL/9 SZ imperial https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H88FP24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bvC5AbNC4WBWQ
MIP tools are great and available on Amazon. I was using some crap Dynamite hex drives that stripped three nuts in a row. The MIP tools handled those same stripped nuts without a problem.
MIP's are precision tooled and the reassurance and comfort I get from using them was well worth the price.
I hadn't thought of that! The spindle and the plastic thing came right out, but I still don't see how to get the bearings out. Doesn't seem like there's anything to grab.
Here's the best photo I could get: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPeSZ6aTxUmpD4i2oxJEBpGNujdhnTWNVsjZoM6
You really think it'll come out? I was oing to order this: https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-8WCB-WideAzz-Adjustable-Opening/dp/B001I70C34?crid=1FA0967YL9CAD&keywords=adjustable+wrench&qid=1540757299&sprefix=adjustable+wren%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-18&ref=sr_1_18
This little thing is a dream. And for the socket, if you need a lower profile one then I'd just cut one down to size.
I use this when I’m changing a faucet. I’m not sure what yours looks like underneath but this has been my money maker.
Ridgid 57003 EZ Change Faucet Tool, Sink Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078YYD66B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fAx5BbRJYNJYY
TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive Dual-Direction Click Torque Wrench (10-150 in.-lb./1.1-16.9 Nm) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01M12284X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z5z4CbE8P5N9B
$65CAD
Plumber's apprentice here, a little overeager to talk about this. I definitely use my baby channel locks on faucet supply lines at the valve with my large ones to hold the valve steady. For the top portion where the line goes into the faucet I have a special red tool that tightens them. You put the supply line inside of it so you can still twist it to tighten, it's pretty neat! It even has another side for tightening the plastic nut that holds the faucet in place underneath so you can easily tighten what's needed in those very cramped quarters
https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-57003-Change-Faucet-Wrench/dp/B078YYD66B
(Check out the 4th pic for context of putting the supply lines inside of it. The metal piece on the right comes out for tightening of the supply line and plastic nut that holds the faucet down)
Ingersoll rand 1/2 in electric impact. This things amazing, no more finding and stretching out an air hose, then tripping over that hose. I seriously haven't used an air gun since I got it. Has TONS of power I've removed every lug nut, rusty axle nut, even a crank bolt I've thrown at it with no problem. Battery life is pretty good, it will last me 2-3 days if I'm not using it constantly, but since it comes with 2 batteries if one dies I just swap it out while I charge the first one (which charges fully in like 30 mins).
I use one of these at work. They will break your arm if you aint careful. http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-W7150-K1-High-Torque-Impactool-Charger/dp/B007LHJI4E
I have one of these and it works great. I think it was cheaper wherever I got it:
[IceToolz Ocarina Torque wrench set (3-10 Nm)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015DJGECA/)
I replaced:
•••••••••
MAHLE Original B32573 Engine Oil... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184JRWN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Mine is pissing oil.
•••••••••
I also replaced my number 3 ignition coil. Mine was bad. A mechanic did that one for me. It’s a pisser. 🤦🏻♂️
••••••••
If you need a good low-force torque wrench, I recommend this: TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M12284X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It’s only 1/4” drive, but it works very well. High quality.
Why do you recommend the socket type over the open jaw/telescoping type?
https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Tool-Eleven-Wrench-Infinitely-Adjustable/dp/B0000CBJD4
I also keep one of these, a little less awkward but I find it handy to have both
HA! My grandfather gave me an oscilloscope. The cobalt gets me through the little stuff, but if I ever have a "real" job, or I'm going to get into something in a fairly intense fashion, I need a real set. IT also helps getting into tighter spots that the cobalt can't get into, however I also have three or four of these things however I actually prefer the cheaper home depot off brand version. Which is less than 5 bucks? Shit, that's a no brainer if you can spare the space. Comes in a case and everything.
Anyway, you stroke the screwdriver with the magnet a few times and, that's about it. Makes it easier to pick up bits, but then again this was common practise before taking your laptop into the shop.
Wrapping them with electrical tape is so they don't conduct electricity or arc if you're working on live wires (even electronics with capacitors).
Unfortunately this method only works with proper screw drivers.
Wera
https://www.amazon.ca/Wera-05022639001-L-key-Set-SPKL-imperial/dp/B01H88FP24?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_9g5uadgaju_e
Here are several of my favorite special tools made by Ridgid
Amazon This tool is really handy for faucets and drains.
$30 on amazon
Amazon Every one needs a few extra 6 in 1's laying around, may as well get a good one.
$12 on amazon
Amazon This two part wrench is perfect for water stops.
$30 on Amazon
Amazon This is the bees knees for cutting the tubular plastic used for traps and waste lines under sinks and lavs.
$20 on Amazon
You can probably get all of that and be just over the $100 limit with taxes and shipping. I've used all of these in the field and now sell them since i moved to the other side of the parts counter, they make good stuff. Do a Ridgid Tool search on Amazon so you can see if any of there more expensive tools would make sense. Like if he does gas work with copper, they have great flairing tools.
I've had bad luck with torque wrenches in the past, so I decided to go a different route. I gave some "Torque Adapters" a try from ACDelco, and I was really pleasantly surprised! They come in 1/2 inch and 3/8th inch flavors. They are quite easy to use as well!
Get a ratcheting T-handle with allen bits and then you can also use a drill to assemble things much faster. I've put together bed frames, chairs, etc. So much faster and easier. And then you'll also have a nice case for the bits so you won't have to tape them to anything to find them. :-)
Some ideas:
VIM Tools mini ratchet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TSMQWU/r
Knipex pliers are great, they come in many sizes.
Medical Shears are great scissors.. there's many options and sizes.
Depending on the size of your kit, there's a number of options for bit-drivers that store screwdriver bits.
I agree /r/edc is the place to get the best recommendatons
Example of tool I'm referring to: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SNICDJC/
Only a month late getting back to you on this...
The three case with three handles are all torque screwdrivers
Links to everything here:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009ODV0OE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01BSKR35U/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009ODV0PI/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00E8HM9N2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001555G80/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01H88FP24/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This will make assembly and maintenance much easier.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GP23OY6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1420301540&sr=8-2&dpPl=1&dpID=21IOycdj5IL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
I just got a pack of allen keys from amazon and 1.3 is the perfect fit. The pack had a .9 which is to small, fyi
A few tips I didn't see already listed:
Also can be had for under $30
1/2", 3/8", 1/4". If you don't already have one, the Upper Vice Block is under $20 or under $30 for the pair on the same item.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: this
|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
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