(Part 2) Best audio amplifiers according to redditors
We found 4,660 Reddit comments discussing the best audio amplifiers. We ranked the 518 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
$30 DAC - Link - Please know these aren't game changers, it's only offering better quality sound than your motherboard. If your headphones or speakers aren't that great, it's not doing to do much. Weakest link type of thing. If your headphones suck, these wont help. But if you have a decent set of phones, many people have sworn by these.
$75 DAC - Link - More expensive, better sound output. Again, should be paired with even higher quality sound gear. $100+ speakers/headphones.
$115 DAC - My Dac - Link - I needed a dac with a little power. I use speakers with my setup instead of headphones. This one is 2x25. It's honestly the most anyone should need for a 2.0 system.
$80 Speakers - Link - These are mine. I love them. Best combined $200 I've spent. Instead of a CPU that will need to be replaced in two years, these will out last many builds if I take care of them. The reviews are through the roof compared to the price. And I'd have to agree.
There are a million reviews about the topping DAC + Micca speakers. Things feel more immersive. I think that's the simplest way to put it.
ha, I used this svs wireless adapter combined with a small 2 channel amp to run some rear speakers where I couldn't run wires in a wife approved manner. Works great.
I will leave a note here for those wondering what a DAC/Amp is and when they are needed.
-----------------
DAC
A DAC is simply a digital to analog converter. A good DAC will minimize the amount of noise that is introduced into the system, noise being hissing, buzzing, ringing, etc. In more technical terms this would be errors made by the DAC when converting a stream of bits coming from your computer to an analog signal.
It doesn't cost much to produce an accurate DAC. Most on-board DACs are good enough that you won't notice any noise. If you do notice noise it's likely because of interference from other components on the motherboard. In that case a cheap external DAC, such as the Fiio D03k, should clean up the signal.
TL;DR: Don't notice any noise, don't buy an external DAC
------------------
AMP
An amplifier does what the name implies, it amplifies the analog signal going to the headphones. Some headphones are easier to power than others. The SHP9500s are just fine running off your motherboard, which probably has a relatively weak amp, but something like the HifiMan HE-6 requires a lot of power. My recommendation would be to try out the headphones without an amplifier first, then purchase an amp if you aren't reaching the listening volume you would like.
Let's say you need an amplifier, which one do you get? First you should know that there are two major types of amps: solid state and tube. Solid state amplifiers aim to provide clean power to the headphones. Tube amplifiers intentionally introduce distortion to the sound to make it sound more natural. This tends to cut down on harsh treble.
You want to make sure the amp you purchase has enough power for your headphones and will provide clean sound. A great entry level amplifier would be the FX Audio DAC X6 which also happens to have a built in DAC. If you require more power than that the Schiit Magni 3 is exceptional. Anything beyond that, I would recommend heading over to /r/headphones.
TL;DR: Happy with your listening volume? Don't buy a separate amplifier.
I used to have those, but then I got a set of bookshelf speakers with an amp, and I am never ever going back. They blow even my old klipsch 4.1s away.
My current setup:
Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JVxvyb84AS4AB
ONEU Mini amplifier Super Bass Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Amp Booster for Car Moto Home with DC 12V 3A Power Supply, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MBUX40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sWxvybD03CTT7
I do not miss surround sound with how incredibly clear these guys are.
Emotiva A-100 Great speaker amp and a good headphone amp too.
DAC/Headphone amp: Monoprice $69, Schiit Fulla $99 or Micca OriGen G2 $109.
DAC/Speaker amp: Micca OriGain and DAC
Separate DAC, speaker amp and headphone amp:
Speaker amp, no DAC: Micca OriGain $79 or SMSL SA100 $73.
My setup:
Amp: Little Dot MK II
Pre-amp tubes: 1980's US Military Surplus - General Electric JAN (Joint Army Navy) 5654W
Power Tubes: 1972 Soviet Military Surplus - 6N6P (aka 6H6P) with gold grid
Holy cow, this little amp was worth it. On top of that, upgrading the tubes made the sound so much more better. The little dot's typically come with cheap, modern Chinese tubes that sound pretty lacking. Upgrading the stock tubes is absolutely mandatory if you go with a Chi-Fi tube amp, the difference is so night and day that your partially deaf grandmother could tell the difference.
The audio quality is nothing short of outstanding and the sound signature you get is completely configurable depending on what tubes you use. I highly recommend this guide for deciding what tubes to buy. I chose mine based on the best bassy sound I could get on a budget, and it delivers.
I've had mine for the past year and have been using it with my daily drivers, my Sennheiser HD 429. Today I got a pair of Beyerdynamic DT 880 600 ohm cans in the mail. I can absolutely notice a huge difference between my computer's internal amplifier and the Little Dot, even without an external DAC. There is so much detail in the music that the DT 880's high range becomes nearly painful to listen to. Soundstage also gains a massive improvement.
Mind you, reviews of tube amps are highly dependent on what tubes a user has in their system, so these reviews should be seen as just as much of a tube review as a review of the amplifier itself. If someone is going to review their amp with stock tubes, their story is likely going to be very different.
Overall, I totally recommend the Little Dot MK II, but again, it is mandatory that you swap out the stock tubes.
I would personally look for something with a little more power. If i remeber right, 45w @ 4 ohms is really like 25w @ 8 ohms (which is what those speakers are). And you really cant get all your wattage out of those little amps without adding distortion anyways. Parts Express has the Dayton Audio DTA-120 on sale right now, for 85$. Its 40w @ 8ohm. There's also the APA100 (made by many manufacturers), and the Dayton APA150 for a little more. Or any 2.1/5.1 Receiver would be a better bet imo.
The Q5 Pro is a cool little amp (I use one myself), but it lacks in the power department.
As for the sub, you are correct. You dont need anything to power it.
That's a crazy deal on those towers, btw. I'm tempted to pick some up myself, haha
I've used several amp with my Q100's playing around. They aren't that hard to drive but if you want the best sound out of them you need to give them some power. The amp you linked would do fine but here are some others that I would consider.
There are others I just picked a handful to give you an idea.
Ohhh, a newbie! This will be fun... 🙃
A standard record player/turntable (you can use them interchangeably) will output using stereo RCA. The signal needs to go through a Phono Preamp first. Some turntables have a preamp built-in, most do not (especially as you move up the quality scale).
Then you need an amplifier to power the speakers you get. Some speakers can be plugged directly into a “line-level” jack (think headphone port). Others need an amplifier. You can get a cheap one on Amazon like this, or a nicer one like this, or you could try your local thrift store; stereo amps don’t have to be particularly new, so it’s often easy to score one for cheap.
As for the actual record player, [Rega] and Pro-Ject are the two big brands, as well as U-Turn and the every level. What I would call the first fully “proper” turntable starts at around $400. A U-Turn Orbit can be had for around $200. You can get a black plastic Sony or AudioTechnica on Amazon for $100, but I would advise against it.
The tables you’ll want to look for are the Rega Planar 1 (or “P1”), the Pro-Ject Debut/Debut Carbon, or the U-Turn Orbit. Don’t buy from Amazon. Best Buy/Magnolia is a good source, as is your local Hi-Fi dealer (assuming you have one).
I’ve owned the Pro-Ject Debut Carbon and the Regs P3, and liked them both. Please feel free to ask my anything, or PM me. I’m happy to help in any way that I can!
For desktop nearfield, the Vanatoo Transparent Zero for $360 or Transparent One Encore for $600 are some of the most well regarded speakers. I own the Transparent Zero and love their detail and tight bass. Both Vanatoo speakers have a subwoofer out connection, allowing an optional external subwoofer. They also feature a subwoofer crossover, so that when a subwoofer is connected, the speakers will send the low frequencies to the sub and the speakers can be played louder since they are only playing at a certain frequency on up.
Transparent Zero review - "The Vanatoo Transparent Zero‘s are a real oddity in the high audio space. With no corners seemingly cut, and a crazy price for how good they are, they’re the best desktop speakers you can buy – period."
Vanatoo Transparent One Encore PDF info sheet with frequency response graph
The Vanatoo speakers have a built-in amp and DAC, so you would want to connect directly from your computer to the speakers via USB or optical in. It also supports connection via Bluetooth, so you can play music from your phone as well.
Another powered speaker with DAC alternative is the Fluance Ai60 for $300. The Fluance Ai40 is well regarded, and the bigger Ai60 now has a DAC with similar connectivity features as the Vanatoo, including Bluetooth and USB. The Fluance Ai60 also has a subwoofer out connection.
If you prefer the hobby and modular aspect of choosing separate components, you can go the passive speaker route. One option might be ELAC UB-5 for $460 combined with SMSL AD18 amplifier for $150. The AD18 is small enough to fit on a desk, and allows you to connect both a computer source and phone via Bluetooth.
The smallest speakers of the bunch are the Vanatoo Transparent Zero at 4.75" width 7.75" depth 7.5" height. I use mine with IsoAcoustics stands on a desk.
Vanatoo Transparent One Encore - 6.5" width 8" depth 10" height
Fluance Ai60 - 7.8" width 9.2" depth 13.1" height. See Joe N Tell's video showing Ai60 speakers on his desk at 14 minutes in.
ELAC UB5 - 7.87" width 10.75 depth * 12.75" height. See noaudiophile's review for photos of ELAC UB5 on a desk.
I recommend the FX Audio DAC, it has USB and SPDIF inputs, it sounds very clean and has been my favorite DAC. If you look on YouTube there's a channel called ZREVIEWS, he reviews it and shows how well it performs. https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B01HERNVQQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542196326&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dac+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=41LGTJ6EsML&ref=pl
The SMSL AD18 checks all your boxes. One knob allows you to switch sources and EQ, and it's got a not-too-bright display. While I haven't been using it all that long (bought one from Drop and just haven't been in my office much since it arrived), it sounds great for what it is and it's tiny.
I've seen the Topping MX3 recommended a lot too, but cannot speak from experience. IMO anything larger than a mini amp will be too big for your case.
Note that some Creative products sold on Amazon "Sold by Creative Labs, Inc. and Fulfilled by Amazon" are also price matched to the Black Friday deals. Also, late Black Friday sales posting :D
 
Amazing deal on the E-MU XM7 Bookshelf Speakers, which I found good reviews on (at full price):
E-MU XM7 Bookshelf Speakers (Creative/Amazon) - $99.99 ($269.99 - 170, 63% off)
 
Also the X7 USB DAC/Amp (which I've been eyeing for some time) and bundles with the E-MU XM7 Bookshelf Speakers:
Sound Blaster X7 (Creative/Amazon) - $299.99 ($399.99 - 100, 25% off)
Sound Blaster X7 Limited Edition (Creative/Amazon) - $349.99 ($499.99 - 150, 30% off)
Sound Blaster X7 Home Entertainment System (Creative) - $379.98 ($669.98 - 290, 43% off)
Sound Blaster X7 Limited Edition Home Entertainment System (Creative) - $429.98 ($769.98 - 340, 44% off)
yeah, its doable. I've got it setup right now and love it.
I've got these things:
Atrium 4 Speakers
Fosi Amplifier
SockitBox
and a 6 port surge strip.
I've got the strip, the amplifier and the CC in the Sockitbox, outdoors. plug the surge strip in and everything powers up, and I can cast to it. if you used a different amplifier that would work with the projector I'm sure it'd be fine.
I'm going to actually leave the batteries in the pack and solder on a plug for charging. I'll use the battery pack to power a Bluetooth amp board.
I have one of these on the way: https://www.amazon.com/TDA7492P-Amplifier-Wireless-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B01BTJZFY6/
Hopefully it will work out well.
Bookshelf speakers will work better when you are at your computer, as tower speakers will be sitting too low to sound right up close. Given that you are on the main floor of a house, it will be easy to get ample bass.
I would go with a medium sized pair of bookshelf speakers, and a stereo power amp rated around 50 watts. You can get very surprising bass with a setup like that, as long as you have a decent quality amp.
Possible speakers
Possible amp
If you want to spend a little more time and energy, I would strongly recommend you to buy used equipment. The place to do this is www.audiogon.com. You will get much more for your money there, and power amplifiers and speakers are pretty safe to buy used. Personally, I buy almost all of my gear used. If you need help selecting used gear, shoot me a message, and I will tell you if you are getting a good deal.
I believe the poster is mistaken. With Sonos it's $600 a room or more and it's obsolete in a couple years. With a wired system you can connect the speaker wires to whatever you want.
The reason Sonos is so popular is because of rich people who live in apartments. If you can run your own wire, and put in ceiling speakers, do so.
You're probably going to need an amplifier like this, which has an input for each zone. Then you get a keystone plate and put RCA Keystones in the wall for input and output.
You have several Options from there:
If you're betting on Amazon updating the Echo for multi-zone, then just connect one to each input for each zone.
If you don't want to wait for that, or if you want to switch between different inputs, you'll want a multi-zone controller. Then the TVs become an input, the Echo becomes an input, the Sonos:Connect becomes an input. You just switch between them with a keypad.
These types of systems will also route IR to your closet or basement so you can get all of the electronics out of sight.
Other brands to consider are Russound and Nuvo.
The short answer to that, if the cable from that plug does indeed go to a loudspeaker, is it's an amplifier that you want, rather than just a converter / adaptor cable.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PFA300-90-Watt-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B0071HZ5LE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1519070525&sr=8-6&keywords=amplifier
and you'd simply cut the two loudspeaker plugs off, and poke the pair of wires from each into the spring-clip terminals on the amplifier.
http://www.amazon.com/Monitor-Audio-Bronze-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B003VU2G1M $359
http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK $400
Hello Reddit,
I am looking to get started collecting vinyl and am saving up for a new turntable, amp & speakers. My total budget is $1,000. Below is currently what I have in mind, but I am open to suggestions:
Turntable:
Pro-Ject Debut Carbon
Open to vintage alternatives, but am still looking for quality
Receiver/Amplifier:
Yamaha A-S301
Onkyo A-9050
What I am looking for in a receiver is also the flexibility to hook up my TV to the speakers I'm buying. Let me know if you have any better recommendations.
Speakers
ELAC B6
Audioengine P4
I am really new to this stuff, but based on the research I have done I believe the choices listed above would be solid. I am leaning towards the ELAC Speakers, but the other parts of my system are very much undecided. Also, would I need a preamp for this set-up?
Here is a link to my local craigslist
Thanks for the help.
Boxes? Maybe you mean the audio stuff?
Left to right:
Here's one stereo amp
A more expensive option
A really cheap option, won't get super loud due to only having 20wpc
Not if you buy a DAC/preamp, an amp and speakers (a "receiver" is generally a preamp and amp in one unit). He's talking about piecing it together separately. I'm not necessarily recommending these items, but for example:
DAC:
http://amzn.com/B005K2TXMO
Amp:
http://amzn.com/B000VKXLBO
Speakers:
http://amzn.com/B003N18QK4
I have one of these, but only because I couldn't find a decent T-amp for a reasonable price at the time. It's a solid little amp; does what it says on the package. I have it driving a pair of Panasonic SB-L50s and it does a good job.
I'd go with the one wankerschnitzel recommended were I buying now, though. I've heard very good things about T-amps.
I use one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P2VV50/ref=wms_ohs_product
Here's my suggestion (having just done this myself): Run 14/CL2 speaker wire EVERYWHERE you may want speakers and run it to a central locations (perhaps your basement). Run it to the garage, bedrooms, bathrooms, patio(s). You only get one shot to do it before the drywall goes up and CL2 is cheap enough. If you don't want to put a junction box with binding posts up in those locations now, secure a magnet to the end of the cable, take some photos, and you'll be able to easily find the cables later to install speakers.
I would put in-wall or in-ceiling speakers in the locations you mentioned. It's versatile, cheap, and most of the options out there sound fantastic.
I looked into sonos and some of their competitors but didn't want to be stuck into their proprietary system. You'll be set with in-wall speaker wire for decades to come.
Get an apple TV or something of the sort and plug it into one of these bad boys. You'll be able to use your iPhones and computers to control the music, volume, etc. from anywhere in the house.
Assuming you just mean an overall budget of $800, here's a couple of options I'd suggest.
SPEAKERS
AMP
Amps can be found for cheaper at Accessories4Less if you're alright with refurb units.
I think the Yamaha A-S500 is worth looking at. That gives you roughly 99dB peak at 10' not including room gain which should get you over the 100dB barrier. Has a two year warranty and a 60 day money back guarantee from Crutchfield
Another option is the Onkyo A-9050 which has slightly less power resulting in about ~.5dB loss in comparison at listening position, but includes a DAC. The reason I don't link to this first is the measurements trouble me (listing distortion at only 1kHz). It's probably fine though, is cheaper, and does include a DAC - I think the warranty is a little lower, and while Amazon is lenient with returns that gives you a max of 30 days to try really if the take it back without issue.
Any expected headroom will need to be reduced from the peak to form average listening level. Assuming 15dB of headroom average listening level will need to be around 84dB - though modern stuff is pretty compressed and will allow some play.
The one thing I'd say is don't purchase till your move is finished or you have completed the listening room and are able to give it some real ear time to make sure it's hitting the levels you're wanting.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009JBZFVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1418483894&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
This is the most affordable one on the market to my knowledge. I was looking for one myself a few months ago and researched pretty extensively.
I imagine you want to hook a newer model TV that only has digital audio outputs to the same amplifier as your turntable? This will fit the bill nicely.
Objective 2 [linked is the O2/ODAC combo; O2 is sold individually, as well], Schiit Magni, Little Dot MKII.
I don't have personal experience (except at an audio show but I was auditioning a pair of headphones I didn't have experience with) with the Schiit products but people in this subreddit pay for their yachts so there must be something to it. I really like the MKII as a nicely priced tube amp that works well with these headphones and the O2 was designed to drive anything.
Best "real" tube amp for headphones, on a budget, would be this guy;
https://www.amazon.com/Little-Dot-MKII-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QMAI2
It's obviously more than the amp you posted, but I have one and have used it for a preamp, and it sounded GREAT. I'm not really a headphone guy, but many people seem to like it.
the budget dac/headphone amp/speaker amp seems to be a series of compromises to get what you want in one box...either lack of inputs, or a weaker speaker amp or headphone amp section...they are jack of all trades, master of none type units
the cheapest device I am aware of that meets all your criteria is probably the Teac AI101-DA: usb input, 2 optical inputs, 3.5mm analog input, speaker/subwoofer outputs, headphone output, but out of your price range at $299
the budget options that provide speaker and headphone outputs are Topping VX1, TP-32EX and TP-30MK2 however none of these devices has an optical input (TP32-EX has spdif input); they do all feature rca analog inputs however, but you would then be using your pc dac as opposed to the dac in this unit, if that is a concern for you
I use two Aura bass shakers which I attached to a 2x4 on the beams on the inside of my couch. They are wired in series to one channel of a small two channel amp.
The amp is connected to the subwoofer output of my receiver. If you have a X.1 receiver (as I do), simply attach an RCA splitter to the subwoofer output so that one can go to your actual sub and one to the bass shakers.
I love having friends and family to my apartment for the first time. I'll put on some music and they will sit on the big leather couch and without fail mention that the sound must be so loud because they "can feel the bass!" I love my bass shakers especially for Battlefield 4, I have not yet bought BF1, and action movies. If I could make a recommendation: buy a proper subwoofer amp for the shakers. Usually these amps have a built-in EQ or a crossover so you can dial in exactly what frequencies you want the shakers to react to.
If you’re on a budget. Plug directly into the controller.
Gaming Headset for PS4 Xbox One PC, Beexcellent Noise Reduction Crystal Clarity 3.5 mm Professional Game Headphones with Microphone for Laptop Tablet Mac … (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNTTC24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1XRIBbPMSABXA
If you’re not on a budget.
Philips X2/27 Fidelio Over Ear Headphone, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O2Y2MZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UZRIBbGZWYMCC
V-MODA BoomPro Microphone for Gaming & Communication - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-ZRIBb3SBMMXB
Creative Sound Blaster X7 High-Resolution USB DAC 600 ohm Headphone Amplifier with Bluetooth Connectivity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q3XLGLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t0RIBb23BH4QC
This Teac will do exactly what you want. I have a review coming up and it is not cheap but very well made and has all the bells and whistles you need.
Sounds like you need something like these:.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0OMUGS/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0ZAGYB8ZH3ZSJSBVHZEH&dpPl=1&dpID=41IrTc-8IBL.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UGYFWQC/ref=psdcmw_537344_t3_B00R3CRY6Q.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017W12UCU/ref=psdcmw_537344_t2_B00UGYFWQC
Download simhub, install it. Restart your computer, click on shakeit and there is a check box on there too use the fanatec pedals. Click on that and all the supported games already have default settings, but you can make it activate from any bit of telemetry data you want to change it to. You may need to restart the program if you edit things around.
The app also allows you to get an amp and a bass transducer and add vibration to your entire seat for under $50USD.
ONEU Mini amplifier Super Bass... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MBUX40?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Dayton Audio TT25-8 Puck Tactile... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009RGJ47S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You can connect two transducers per amp, and one amp per sound channel you have besides you main sounds sound channel. In my case each of my monitors is another sound channel.
SMSL AD18
SMSL AD50
SMSL SA50 Plus doesn't have bluetooth but it does have a built in dac and card reader.
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-50-PLUS-Amplifier-TAS5766M/dp/B06XYKNRXJ
Polk Audio S15
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Signature-S15-Bookshelf/dp/B01LVWWZS0/
Those Polk are on sale right now. They are usually over $200.
Right now the total cost for the Polk + SMSL is just under $300
Get yourself a nice little Amp like an SMSL SA-50, a 3.5mm aux cable to connect your TV's headphone out to the amp, and some 16 gauge speaker wire to connect amp to speakers. Bob's your uncle.
IF money is type, you can go with a cheaper amp, but the first one I mentioned is nicer unit that you can keep when you upgrade to a TV with an optical out.
2nd recommendation for https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Bluetooth-Decoding-Amplifier/dp/B01N8Q57FS/
This also says it has optical input, but I didn't see a picture of the back: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-50-PLUS-Amplifier-TAS5766M/dp/B06XYKNRXJ/
That amplifier is way overpriced for what it is. Here's a $90 digital amplifier with a TI chipset:
https://smile.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B06XYKNRXJ/
The description makes it sound like an analog design with a DAC tacked on but it's actually a true digital design if you check the datasheet of the chip used inside. (TI is the leader in audio chipsets.) You'll also need a S/PDIF fiber cable to connect it.
Here's another one with Bluetooth Apt-X, USB, and is also a headphone amplifier:
https://smile.amazon.com/Sabaj-A4-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Supports/dp/B078W58RV9/
Edifiers or Small Desktop amp and passive speakers
For example:
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Audio-Amplifier-Professional-Speakers/dp/B071XQGYRJ
https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116-Digital-Amplifier-Audiophile-Grade/dp/B07548PWQQ
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-MK402-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B07774W7MB
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-AIR-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00NOA58RS
My choice ( I have these)
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2
You may be able to get Wharfedales or Mordaunt or Cambridge over there for just a little more -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wharfedale-9-1-Diamond/dp/B002WJAQY2
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mordaunt-Short-Compact-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00L5884ZY
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mordaunt-Short-Compact-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00L5884ZY
>Wharfedale modus cube series 2
apparently 75watts RMS @ 6ohm. so your amp will need to handle 6ohm loads.
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Audio-Amplifier-Professional-Speakers/dp/B071XQGYRJ/
and
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/
would get you there. using the headphone output from the back of the TV.
or, as others have said, you can get a used amp for cheap at places like goodwill.
They usually go for $119.99 and were $95.99 yesterday, but they dropped in price again today. It's the record low according to Camelcamelcamel.
The D10 is also on sale for $71.99.
You will need some kind of amplifier. Most people use a receiver, but if you don't need that much, something like this would work. It has bluetooth to connect to your phone/laptop, but you will need speaker wires to connect it to the speakers.
Setup includes:
Monitors
Computer
Desk
Periferals
Edit - formatting
I replied with recommendations to improve your setup. I'm sorry if you didn't like my answer but you would improve your sound by throwing those speakers in the garbage and starting over again.
Also, nobody said you had to spend $1000 to have a decent sounding setup. There is TONS of used gear out there that people want to unload for cheap. Most people these days are unloading their larger speakers for soundbars and bluetooth speakers so there are lots of deals to sniff out.
Also....
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=sr_1_42?ie=UTF8&qid=1491184966&sr=8-42&keywords=powered+speakers
Would you have been able to jump into the hobby with an extra $10? 4" drivers in an mdf enclosure with actual tweeters vs. (i'm guessing) 1.5" drivers in a plastic case with no tweeters.
I was also able to find several better options for a bit more money but nothing over $350.
If you are aware that your gear is cheap then you really shouldn't be surprised when somebody suggests that you replace it. Enjoy those Micca speakers by the way.
EDIT: Sorry, you'll need this crazy expensive stereo amp too.....
https://www.amazon.com/ONEU-amplifier-Stereo-Booster-Supply/dp/B019MBUX40/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1491185693&sr=8-14&keywords=stereo+amp
INSMA Amplifier Board TDA7492P Audio Receiver Amplifiers DIY Module 25W Dual Channel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mwOPBbA4SSH1W
They're fine on your laptop but suck on your phone, so you want something for your laptop?
Well anyway, for portable use I'd say try out the Fiio K1. $40
If you'll use it only on your laptop then there's the FX-Audio Dac X6. $65
These are powered speakers with USB inputs - $350/Pr Retail -
https://www.klipsch.com/products/r-15pm-powered-monitors
How important is USB to you? That's a nice feature, but only if you need it.
I think these might be the latest version (R-51PM - $500/pr) -
https://www.klipsch.com/products/r-51pm-powered-speakers
If there is a replacement model that means there are probably very good deals on the Older Version.
These are 5" speaker, and to make a determination, you have to consider what else you can get for a similar price.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/LSR305MK2--jbl-305p-mkii-5-inch-powered-studio-monitor
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MR524--mackie-mr524-5-inch-powered-studio-monitor
Edifier S2000-Pro, DAC, Remote Control, Bluetooth 4.0, etc... - £399/pr -
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-S2000pro-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B0725GZQFZ/
https://www.edifier.com/us/en/speakers/s2000pro-bookshelf-speakers-studio-monitors
There is nothing wrong with the Edifier, assuming they do what you need done.
The one advantage the Klipsch do have is that they have a USB input for direct connect to a computer. That is probably the feature that is the deciding factor. However, if you computer has an Optical or Coaxial Output, then something like the Edifiers 2000 might be a good choice.
Or, if you are not connecting to a computer, then USB becomes less valuable. In the case, the Edifier with Optical/Coaxial/AUX and Bluetooth is a better choice, simply because it has a Remote Control.
The various Mackie and JBL in 5", 6.5", and 8" could be a good choice as they are highly rated and are less money, but they would require you to buy a USB DAC. Though these can be had in the range of $100.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_703DGNFLYB/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-v1-5.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_772D3DAC/Audioengine-D3.html?tp=59309
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/
https://www.amazon.com/Q1-Mark-II-Native-Amplifier/dp/B0757MH46M/
https://www.amazon.com/CREATIVE-LABS-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/
https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B01HERNVQQ/
Some of these are USB DACs and Headphone Amps.
The JBL 306 and the Mackie MR624 are both 6.5" speakers, which are TWICE as big as a 5" bass driver. They are about $200 each, which with a DAC would run in the neighborhood of $500/set.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/LSR306MK2--jbl-306p-mkii-6.5-inch-powered-studio-monitor
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MR624--mackie-mr624-6.5-inch-powered-studio-monitor
You can check reviews on line and you will find nothing but positive for both the JBL and the Mackie MR Series.
All that said, nothing wrong with the Klipsch, just make sure they do what you want, suit your application, and fit your budget.
Just a range of possibilities
It does, but its all the way over there --> ! In all seriousness, it doesn't have quite enough volume steps at my usual listening volume. Its an integrated DAC / AMP SMSL AD18, which is fantastic in many ways, although has many flaws at the same time - one of which being a very imprecise rotary encoder.
Thanks for your help! I'm trying to do this on a real budget, would this amp be alright to power the speakers? https://www.amazon.co.uk/ONEU-Amplifier-Subwoofer-Amplifiers-Speakers/dp/B019MBUX40/ref=sr_1_261?ie=UTF8&qid=1478454306&sr=8-261&keywords=home+cinema+amp
Not sure it'll work but this could be a jumping point:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019MBUX40/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's just a cheap little amp that I plugged into a fair sized bass thing and strapped to my chair. Figure if it works for a home made buttkicker, it may work for the real thing.
​
Guess that one in particular isn't in stock but it's nothing great, any of the little amps similar to it should work.
I got it off Amazon. It's a dual channel 50W + 50W driver that can drive 4ohm -8ohm speakers. I used BOSS 4" 50W 4ohm speakers
TDA7492P 2 x 50 Watt Dual Channel Amplifier Wireless Digital Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver Amplifier Board 50W + 50W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HtjByb5TNPS0P
BOSS AUDIO BRS40 BRS 4" 50-watt Full Range Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mvjByb6J5BQZV
Not OP but you could hook the speakers up to a Bluetooth Amplifier or something similar and then make a wood case for it.
So basically you want to use the electronics from the existing speaker with different speakers and a different cabinet?
Why destroy the original speakers when you can use something like this.
I'm not endorsing that board, btw, it was literally the first match in a search for "bluetooth amplifier board" on amazon.com.
Neither of those have an amplifier, I'd suggest spending a little more and get the fx-audio dac x6: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HERNVQQ . You can use a 1/4 to 3.5mm converter to plug in your headphones(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E2Y0KK).
Is the little silver box under the TV this thing? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HERNVQQ/
If so, how do you like it? Nice sturdy build quality, everything plugs in snugly, satisfying to turn volume knob? Sounds decent?
I ask because I'm thinking of getting a friend a cheap dac/preamp for the active monitors on his desk and this box is like $65, and I'm used to being a dumb audiphile buying much more expensive stuff so I was wondering if it was too good to be true.
If your motherboard doesn't have an S/P DIF optical audio output, add a sound card that has one ($30).
Optical audio cables are usually not included ($6).
If your speakers and/or headset don't have an optical input, you'll need an external DAC/AMP. There are models for all budgets from $12 for a simple converter, no Amp, to $70 for a DAC+AMP, to $toodamnhigh for an audiophile solution.
Note that an external DAC can have a USB port for your PC but don't use it since it would create an electrical connection. Only use the optical cable, and plug the DAC's power cord preferably in a different wall socket than the one used by the PC.
Recap:
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Sound Card | Asus - Xonar DG 24-bit 96 kHz Sound Card | $29.57 @ OutletPC
Custom | PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 XBox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV | $12.99 @ Amazon
Custom | FX Audio DAC-X6 24BIT/192 Optical/Coaxial/USB Digital Audio Amplifier DAC Decoder (Silver) | $64.99 @ Amazon
Custom | Edifier R1280DB Powered Bluetooth Bookshelf Speakers - Optical Input - Wireless Studio Monitors - 4 Inch Near Field Speaker - 42w RMS - Wood Grain (Black) | $129.99 @ Amazon
Custom | AmazonBasics CL3 Rated (In-Wall Installation) Toslink Cable - 6 Feet | $5.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $253.53
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $243.53
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-23 20:45 EDT-0400 |
If it's not enough you can add a potentiometer but it's not recommended unless it really annoys you. It will remove any remaining white noise at the cost of lower volume. Lower volume means you will have to increase the volume to hear at the same level, and it will kill part of the spectrum: there's quality loss.
Example: you're a watching a movie scene where nobody speaks and everything is silent but the microphone still detects and records the natural ambient noise that air makes or people quietly breathing. The potentiometer would kill that.
You just need an amp with a sub out. It won't do much input switching. But your budget is r/choosingbeggars anyway.
Micca OriGain Compact Stereo Integrated Amplifier and DAC, 50W x 2
VMV SMSL A2 HiFi Audio Stereo Receiver Class D Digital Amplifier with Subwoofer 40Wx2 Black
If you want an avr you need to go used.
I wouldn't pick up one of those amps. One of the features for one of them is that they don't spark when plugging power in.
For an amp, try this Micca Origain.
If you have the room, a receiver might be better for you. This Yamaha R-S202 would work well, but only works with 8 ohm speakers.
For speakers, you have a few options.
Klipsch R-14M
Pioneer SP-BS22-LR(6 ohm)
The Micca MB42X when they come back in stock.
Also, if you can build them, C-Note Speaker Kit. These will be better than any other cheap speaker you can find new. Will need around $50-100 in tools to build them.
As far as cheap subs go, this Dayton Audio SUB-1000 might be your best bet.
Parts Express coupon codes:
SSVTEN $10 off $100
CJ2FIVE $25 off $250
Thank you the swift reply!
I just need a quick clarification, do both the Micca OriGain’s have a DAC? Because there are 2 versions: the AD250 and the A250. The AD250 has DAC in the title, but in the comparison table below, it doesn’t mention anything about one not have a DAC.
Thanks
A small amp and bookshelves is a great place to start.
This kind of amp: SMSL. You can add a sub in the future. There are so many bookshelf speakers available it's kind of hard to recommend some without knowing more.
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Bluetooth-Decoding-Amplifier/dp/B01M3ULDG9
I'm looking into setting up a basic system. Budget is $300 USD give or take. Primarily these are going to be in my bedroom, apartment building, roughly 315x315 CM (10.3ft^2), but will likely get pulled out every once in a while to the living room, which is somewhat larger.
This is going to be playing a variety of music, TV and movies and potentially down the track being plugged into my PC, but that's a while of.
The challenge here is that I'm in NZ, and local offerings are generally over priced. I can order from amazon (and usually with decent/free shipping), and you can see what will ship here if you select "AmazonGlobal Eligible" under International shipping under search.
Not to mention power comes at 240v or so, and not the 120 or so that US voltage does.
For speakers I was looking at either of the 2 options, I've read good things about both but really I'm not to sure.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluance-SX6-Definition-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B00067OS0A
http://www.amazon.com/America-FH-65B-Bookshelf-Speakers-6-5IN/dp/B002ISTP8K
Amp is were I run into trouble, finding one that can ship here is proving to be... difficult, I was looking at these ones though
http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-120-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00HFG3FYA
http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-APA150-150-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B000VKXLBO
Thanks
It'll work, but it's a little overkill for what you need and you'd need an external power management solution since you don't want to leave that on all the time. A dedicated amp like the Dayton APA150 is a more focused product and has automatic power on when there is an audio signal, so you save on power.
Edit: It looks like the Onkyo has an electronic power button (instead of a hard physical button) so the only convenient way to power that on and off would be a universal remote with a macro to turn the system on and off as a whole. It doesn't seem like a 12 volt triggered power strip would work, for instance.
Im sure other, higher quality mini amps will sound better. Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-APA150-150-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B000VKXLBO/ref=pd_sbs_107_16?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000VKXLBO&pd_rd_r=04REXC84BKXEKSQGX8AB&pd_rd_w=0DAze&pd_rd_wg=vhmny&psc=1&refRID=04REXC84BKXEKSQGX8AB
or
https://www.amazon.com/Topping-T-Amp-TK2050-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B00EOKQ9Q6/ref=pd_sbs_107_21?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00EOKQ9Q6&pd_rd_r=04REXC84BKXEKSQGX8AB&pd_rd_w=0DAze&pd_rd_wg=vhmny&psc=1&refRID=04REXC84BKXEKSQGX8AB
Amps I've considered, but they all either break the budget, or don't have XLR (or both):
No you do not need a pro amp. These speakers are extremely efficient. You could get away with a pretty cheap amp if you want. Nicer ones I might suggest are:
Behringer A500(a metric shitload of power)
Dayton APA150
Or the most reasonable: Audiosource Amp 100
Any of these amplifiers will do. And any of them can drive those speakers to impressive and damaging levels of sound.
Please be careful of your hearing and beyond that, be mindful of your neighbors. Then enjoy yourself, those speakers will be very capable of hosting parties.
Here's one for ~$36. You'd have a hard time building the same thing for $36.
It doesn't have any strength because you aren't driving it with any real power. As harrywhite1 has stated your best option is to buy a cheap 10-30 watt amp. Personally I like my amps to be rated higher than my speakers and judge safety off of sound but that is just me. Just make sure it has a 8 ohm out or lower.
We use a ton of these at work and they are pretty solid for the price.
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PCA2-2X40-Watt-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B001P2VV50#
If you are looking for a schematic just for the fun of building expect to pay more on average.
I imagine you could get away with using three of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-MA1240a-Multi-Zone-Amplifier/dp/B003DKVZHQ
Around 1500 bucks total for amplification.
Its not inexpensive, but compared to the cost of the rest of the system, the amplification isn't what is going to kill you.
OSD MX1240 https://www.amazon.ca/Dayton-Audio-Multi-Zone-Amplifier-Electronics/dp/B003DKVZHQ
Probably about as cheap as you'll find available in Canada.
Note you'll still need something to provide audio into the amp, this is just an amp, doesn't provide audio to the amp like Sonos does.
How much is affordable? 100$? 1000$? Do you have speakers already?
$1000 option:
I'd actually suggest getting 6 (or 12) individual USB DACs (USB soundcards) such as these(Relatively cheap one from a known manufacturer):
http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Beach-Advantage-Digital-Adapter/dp/B0036VO4X4/
You'll also need a 12 channel power amp. (or 6 small stereo amps).
Like 6 of these: http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-TRIPATH-TA2020-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B003P534SW/
or one of these http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-MA1240a-Multi-Zone-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B003DKVZHQ/
$100 Option
If you don't have speakers already you use inexpensive (powered) computer speakers? If so you could get 6 pairs of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-S150-Speakers-Digital-Sound/dp/B000ZH98LU
It might be a little trouble to send audio individually to each speaker - but should be doable with some hacking.
The recommended power range for your speakers is 25-200 watts, and the amp you linked to is only 20. This one is supposed to be 90 watts for a similar price (albeit in dollars, not pounds):
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PFA300-90-Watt-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B0071HZ5LE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511115688&sr=8-2&keywords=Compact+stereo+amplifier
But I cannot speak to the quality of either brand.
That is a lot of decibels. Unfortunately for you decibels are measured on a log scale, which makes achieving high levels much harder than regular listening levels. In terms of doing it on the cheap this speaker and this amp will likely get you to your desired level. However, this is really only an estimate based on the published specs and assuming 1m between listener and speaker(standard for measurements). In reality there are other factors that may affect perceived loudness and/or measured level. Also, you will need a decibel meter to calibrate the equipment. While there are phone apps for this they are often not all that accurate.
If you haven't already, it may be wise to contact a local sound rental company and see what their day rate would be for something that would achieve your desired level. It might also appear more "scientific" to use professionals rather than the advice of some dude on the internet.
Lastly, for the safety of the unfortunate soul you will put in front of this thing, be very careful. 120db is often the max a large concert venue will be allowed to produce and you are generating a signal twice as loud. According to the CDC: "Loud noise[s] above 120 dB can cause immediate harm to your ears." I question your need for this level of signal, and suspect it may violate some ethics around human testing.
For $200 you could go in a couple of different directions. Basically, either a decent entry level AVR with a pair of cheap bookshelf speakers, or a cheap stereo amp with a pair of decent entry level bookshelf speakers. If you could bump your budget up to $300 you could get a decent AVR and a decent pair of speakers. (Decent is relative, but I'm using it to mean a step up above "cheap".)
Examples:
Decent AVR and cheap bookshelf speakers.
Cheap stereo amp and decent bookshelf speakers.
My recommendation would be to see if you can stretch your budget to buy the Denon AVR and the better speakers. That would put you at $280 plus tax. If your budget really is limited then go for the AVR and the T-15. When you're ready to upgrade you will have the option to add a subwoofer, a center channel speaker, surround speakers, or better front speakers and move the T-15 speakers to the surround positions.
​
So, this is not quite as simple as everyone else is making it out to be, but you are on the right track :)
The In-wall bluetooth option you found would work with almost any receiver because the output is standard RCA L/R. You would put the volume knob on the porch and the other one next to wherever you put your Amp and connect the two parts with an ethernet cable through the wall.
For the amp, I usually try to stick with 8ohm (the one you had selected was 4ohm). This Amp would probably due you fine (since you said you will not be blasting music). You would connect that to the in-wall bluetooth adapter using standard red and white RCA cables.
For the speakers, I think you chose well :) but I would avoid using lamp cord in an in-wall/ in-ceiling installation (like others have suggested), especially when you have it in an "outdoor" environment . Buy the stuff that is rated to be in wall. Its tougher and will stand up to the elements over time better than lamp cord would. As for gauge, I would say at least 16-2, if not 14-2 (I ran 14-2 for my outdoor speakers, but would have gone all the way to 12-2 if it wasn't nearly double the price ;P)
For where to put the amp, choose someplace where you can have power for the amp and bluetooth adapter and have access to run an ethernet and two speaker cables to the porch.
Feel free to ask me anything more you need. I've installed my fair share of these systems :)
Well deciding on a amp can be tricky. You could get something like a Onkyo A-9050 or a Yamaha A-S301BL which would save you a fair bit of money while still getting a sturdy high quality amp. Hopefully someone else can give their two cents on it, since I don't listen a lot to records.
The following amps will work:
http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo--9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1407458439&sr=1-2&keywords=integrated+stereo+amplifier
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha--S500BL-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B0044779HW/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1407458439&sr=1-3&keywords=integrated+stereo+amplifier
http://www.amazon.com/Marantz-PM5004-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B003R7KMTC/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1407458439&sr=1-4&keywords=integrated+stereo+amplifier
what is your budget? there are tons of options out there depending on the budget.
and are you going with the andrew jones sub or a different one? some subs will allow you to run the signal for the L/R speakers through the sub so that you dont need a dedicated subout on the dac/amp. the sub will just pull the signal it needs for its sub stuff and will pass the rest on to the L/R speakers. its just a bit more wires running around but can open up a lot more options for the dac/amp.
thats how my current computer setup is. i have rcas from the dac to the sub, then from sub to my amp. i did it that way so that i could have independent volume control over the sub and speakers.
this is the amp i have, it has everything you want other than bluetooth. i just dont use the dac because i have a better one already http://smile.amazon.com/Onkyo-9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK/ref=sr_1_2?
this one has everything you ask for, but no USB input. there is 2 optical inputs though, so if your computer can output optical it could work exactly how you want. http://smile.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-8140-Channel-Network-Receiver/dp/B01AT3G1Z0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1
both are around $300, not sure if that fits your budget or what though.
You'll probably want to look into speakers then an amp in that order. Speakers tend to be the most subjective and personal piece of the setup, so get those squared away, then figure out what to drive them with.
For speakers, check out:
I'm partial to Bowers and Wilkins myself.
For integrated amps, look at:
With a simple computer and two bookshelfs setup, I really like the NAD D3020 or its bigger brother, the D7050. The Cambridge 351A is probably one of the better options in this range, however.
Also, you might find you like powered speakers like Audioengine A5+ ($399) and HD6 ($749). AE has a great sound and features a built-in DAC. If you can demo them, see what you think.
Onkyo:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SY20TE8/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009JBZFVK/
Yamaha:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXUCN0A/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXUCRG0/
Pioneer:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIQ3NM2/
https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/category/stereoreceivers/home-audio/receivers-amps/stereo-receivers/1.html
Yeah you could do that or just pony up $50 more and get the next model up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009JBZFVK/ref=psdcmw_537344_t1_B00SY20TE8
Bam. Done.
Speakers: Edifier R1280DB.
Go with 2.0 bookshelf speakers, not 2.1 computer speakers. These have Bluetooth, optical, and coax. Oh, and they sound amazing.
Headphones are tricker. Will you also be using them with a console or a phone at any point? Want to keep them on while running to get a cup of tea or take a leak? Do you play FPS's?
You have few different options:
Convenience be damned you want awesome audio quality above all else.
Wireless PC and PS4.
Gaming headphones.
Thanks for the advice! I was thinking of this: Little Dot MK2 MKII 6J1 X2 6N6 X2 Headphone Amp Amplifier Pre-Amp Tube UK Plug https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00A2QMAI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S-9xzb3NVFKCQ -- what do you think?
Well, the little dot mkII has volume control and should work well then if I am understanding you correctly.
Topping Vx1 Speaker amp, headphone amp, and DAC all in one. Not the best at any one thing, but can't beat it for the price and all in one convenience.
Looks like Topping VX-1 would be perfect for you.
Edit: just noticed floor speakers. In that case VX1 might not work, as its power output is just 25W. I'm not sure if you can find a small amp that has enough power to drive large speakers.
Look into a DAC/AMP
I spent a little money, nothing bank breaking, to get good audio from my PC
I use the Topping VX1
It attaches to your PC by USB and/or line out (the green jack)
I use the line out from my PC to the AUX input on the back of the DAC
I run from the Topping VX1 to a 8" sub from Dayton-Audio and from the sub I go to 2 Dayton Audio B652 speakers.
The sound is really good. Much better than from crappy PC speakers. Also the Topping has a switching headphone jack so you can leave your headphones in at all times.
I am using the audio technica m50x headphones which are decent.
maybe this
http://www.amazon.com/Topping-TP30-Digital-Amplifier-USB-DAC/dp/B005D7SKWK
or
http://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-VX1-Tripath-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B00H6XDE4S/ref=sr_1_cc_9?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1456886130&sr=1-9-catcorr&keywords=smsl+q5
or the smsl q5
http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Q5-Pro-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B014P5I93A/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1456886130&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=smsl+q5
I think the smsl q5 pro has a remote and sub out, but's just out your price range.
Buying the Topping VX1 and Micca MB42x. Do I need banana plugs (it comes out on Amazon's recommended items)? Or can I just directly wire the speakers with 16-guage speaker wire?
I got Klipsh R-14Ms and they work great, granted you have to get an amplifier and then banana plugs and speaker wire, which is easier than you think. All in all, it can be quite an adventure.
Dayton Audio DTA-120 + Polk Audio TL2 satellites.
Now you also have a bonus headphone amp.
how much power you need? one of the class d type amps are cheap and might be enough. do some more searching on class T type amplifiers.
maybe a pair of these??? https://www.cnet.com/products/lepai-lp-2020a-plus/review/ more power? https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-120-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00HFG3FYA
if you start searching on the lepai you'll get into a whole slew of reviews and discussions about these little amps.
https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116-Channel-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00WTOAC1M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492134013&sr=8-1&keywords=nobsound+50wx2&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011 Nobsound Mini TPA3116 Audio HIFI 2.0 Channel Stereo Output Digital Power Amplifier 50WX2 $40, https://smile.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-120-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00HFG3FYA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492120518&sr=8-1&keywords=Dayton+Audio+DTA-120 Dayton Audio DTA-120 Class T Digital Mini Amplifier 60 WPC $95, Also Headphone Amp
I'm looking for an amp to use with my LP120 (with preamp disabled), Kenwood JL-601s, and Behringer Microphono PP440. I'm looking at these two:
Sound Appeal SA-100T 100W Class T Digital Audio Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E8ONRBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TThwyb66D62JF
Dayton Audio DTA-120 Class T Digital Mini Amplifier 60 WPC (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFG3FYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mUhwyb0SYGDDC
I've narrowed it down to these two because I want something with an auxiliary port. What would you recommend? I've heard the Dayton has better build quality but the Sound Appeal produces less hiss. I'm leaning toward the Sound Appeal, but I'm open to suggestions.
Short answer: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HFG3FYA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Long answer: I initially had those Audioengine P4 speakers in our kitchen powered with the above linked amp. But a year later we did a remodel and I had no place to put them. I decided to repurpose them for my office. I didn't want to spend $300 on the audioengine sub however. Even if I bought it my current amp is only a 2 channel so I'd need a new amp too for a couple hundred bucks. Now I'm up to $500+...screw all that. So I used the speakers and amp and connected the old Logitech Z2300 sub as well, which is great. I have to operate the sub volume and speaker volume independently but hey, big deal.
It's a Herman Miller Aeron. I've had it for six or seven years now. It's incredibly comfortable. No issues except I replaced the seating part around six months ago due to wear. I got it used here: https://www.madisonseating.com/landing/herman-miller-aeron.html
lol, the tent is a Creative X7 headphone/speaker amp and DAC. I use it as a DAC which feeds a JDS Atom headphone amp. It connects my PC, Switch, PS4, and TV to my headphones. I also have a pair of passive speakers (not pictured) that it can power. It's a useful little device.
My headphones are DT1990 Pros.
Creative Sound Blaster X7 High-Resolution USB DAC 600 ohm Headphone Amplifier with Bluetooth Connectivity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q3XLGLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aLZKzbQ95H5K5
There's a wide range of options, from the "$10-15, decent, it works": https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Adapter-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01HPMHOY0/
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01M7QQQC7/
There's fancier stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044DEDCA/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JUPY3A/
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/
Or for the wealthy audiophile: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-X7-High-Resolution-Headphone-Connectivity/dp/B00Q3XLGLU/
TEAC makes some really nice stuff, and several of their products fall within your budget.
EDIT: idk if your budget is for only the amp or also for the headphones and speakers, but ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UGYFWQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uOUpzb0C0Y6PH ) is a nice little combo unit if it's the former.
I use an older version of this. For $300, it powers speakers nicely, has a nice built-in DAC, subwoofer out, a nice sounding headphone jack that would power any but the most exotic headphones: http://www.amazon.com/Teac-AI-101DA-B-Integrated-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00UGYFWQC/
Another headphone you might consider in the same league as the HD650 and 400i are the Philips X2, currently on sale for $100 off for only 9 more hours if you're in the US: http://www.amazon.com/Philips-X2-27-Fidelio-Headphones/dp/B00O2Y2MZG
This is what I am using instead of a soundbar.
Teac AI-101DA $300 or $225 on Massdrop
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UGYFWQC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496813170&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=teac+ai-101da&dpPl=1&dpID=41dClv7EX-L&ref=plSrch
Kef Q100 bookshelf speakers $300
http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/kefq100bl/kef-q100-5.25-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-black-pair/1.html
Connect the AI-101DA to your TV via an optical cable and you are set. You can even add a subwoofer down the road if you choose to but you really don't need one. You may also need stands for the speakers depending on your current arrangement.
As others have said it makes a huge difference. I love feeling the subtle details as well like engine RPM and gear shifts in my back. It really pulls you in.
Get a butt kicker setup if you don’t like to DIY. Otherwise a cheap setup can be pieced together easily:
Shaker:
Dayton Audio BST-1 High Power Pro Tactile Bass Shaker 50 Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDDPJTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Irj5BbKDNWGTP
Amp:
ONEU Mini amplifier Super Bass Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Amp Booster for Car Moto Home with DC 12V 3A Power Supply, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MBUX40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Dsj5Bb3JGVQ77
Wire:
AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Gtj5Bb7QK1K9K
Free Software:
https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/simhub-diy-sim-racing-dash.10252/
Here are a couple to look into
https://www.amazon.de/SMSL-AD18-Bluetooth-Decoding-Amplifier/dp/B01M3ULDG9/
https://www.amazon.de/Topping-MX3-Eingebauter-Kopfh%C3%B6rerverst%C3%A4rker-Digitalverst%C3%A4rker-Schwarz/dp/B075SYC4Z5/
Hey I have a similar setup but added this nifty little amp with good results.
2 Channel Stereo Audio Class D Amplifier Mini Hi-Fi Professional Digital Amp for Home Speakers 50W x 2 - V1.0G https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XQGYRJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DLQjDb33DV7Y0
Would you say that this one could work fine? I'm not looking for something extravagant.
I just did multi-room audio with chromecast audio using this as the guide and am very happy with it - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/36-home-v-distribution/2966266-chromecast-audio-23-zone-whole-house-conversion-project.html
I ended up using these amps - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076P2VS9H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am in the process of installing a similar setup. Went with the AirPort Express ($40 on eBay) and a separate amp connected (Fosi Audio TB10A, $70).
A separate AirPlay 2 receiver might work as well, Denon has options that are still cheaper than the Sonos one.
I went this route personally /u/magew I really like this amp, it draws (a tested) 4 watts at idle
Note that ChromeCast Audios have been discontinued. The best you can do now is a Google Home with an aux cord, try and find the audios on ebay, or roll your own with a pi.
I also used a few Echos wired into these house zone, they also work well, but the Chromecast has more reliable whole house sync.
I have an audio engine D1 that I bought used. It’s a solid piece. It’s a bit pricey retail though.
It’s a dac and headphone amp, so if you just need a dac it wouldn’t be worth the price.
I’ve taken it apart and it’s decent build quality, and I love the chunky RCA connectors.
TOPPING D10 Mini USB DAC CSS XMOS xu208 es9018k2m opa2134 Decoder Audio Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B46KQVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hfqrDbHXBY11M
Easy dac to recommend if it fits your connection needs. Usb powered as well.
+1 for better DAC. Look at the Topping D10: https://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-es9018k2m-opa2134-Decoder-Amplifier/dp/B07B46KQVP/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=topping+d10&qid=1567096358&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Output the audio from the Surface pro to this, then take the signal to a DSP like a Dayton Audio DSP-408: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dsp-408-4x8-dsp-digital-signal-processor-for-home-and-car-audio--230-500 if you want to keep it on a budget. This will allow you to split the audio signal and properly tune/time align the audio signal and run everything actively.
You can still control the volume directly on the surface pro by keeping the Dayton signal level at a set volume. Plus side: You can control the DSP functions through the windows app on the surface pro.
This would be the cheap option:
$25 bucks for the amp and DAC. It's a notable step up from using the controller.
For a higher quality solution, the Topping A30 amplifier paired with a Topping D30 or Topping D10 DAC. This is if you really want to maximize audio clarity and drive power hungry headphones.
Personally? I'd get the cheap option first and if you want an upgrade later, go with the more expensive one.
It is a digital to analog converter. The d10 is a great dac for the money.
https://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-es9018k2m-opa2134-Decoder-Amplifier/dp/B07B46KQVP
Oh gotcha, I don't have enough experience with DACS to really know how it compares, this is only my second one. They do sell a standalone DAC but a big selling point for me was the headphone amp integration. Zeos seemed really impressed with it.
That will work well. But it might be better to get an external USB DAC instead.
Like this one: https://www.amazon.fr/Décodeur-Amplificateur-Topping-ES9018K2M-OPA2134/dp/B07B46KQVP
You would use the DAC in that unit instead of the one in your Cambridge amplifier.
Yeah I'd like to keep it under 200; although I'm not opposed to buying used (stereo gear seems to be like 20-30% of the new price). My garage is unfinished so it's only going to be set up on a bench in the back. I just couldn't stand the fuzziness and jazz with the jambox I bought to replace the other system so I figured I'd ask around. someone recommended these
https://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-DV62si-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00006JPDI/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537553961&sr=1-4&keywords=bic+speakers&pldnSite=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BQC7GNL/ref=psdc_537344_t1_B076XSBCCL?pldnSite=1
A lot of smaller amps will also have headphone outs as well.
https://www.amazon.com/AD18-Bluetooth-Digital-Amplifier-Decoding/dp/B01M3ULDG9
The AD18 is recommended a decent amount here, it has decent connectivity options and will power both passive speakers and headphones. As far as how well it will power headphones, I'm not too sure, and you'll have to do a little searching around!
EDIT: More options for you that do have headphone outs. Browse around and find one that will power your speakers appropriately and that has decent reviews!
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta3116hp-class-d-mini-amplifier-with-headphone-amp-2-x-15w--300-3810
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-mini-amplifier-60-wpc--300-3800
I think $70 for NEW , is too low. With sub out, I think the cheapest would be something like this ($144).
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Supports-Subwoofer/dp/B073F8Z565/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511909246&sr=1-1&keywords=smsl++ad18
If your subwoofer can be connected using high level inputs (speaker wire) you could do it with this one :
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-50-PLUS-Amplifier-TAS5766M/dp/B06XYKNRXJ/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511909134&sr=1-3&keywords=smsl++sa50
Looking at this one:
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-50-PLUS-Amplifier-TAS5766M/dp/B06XYKNRXJ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=smsl+sa-50+remote&qid=1563898683&s=gateway&sr=8-1
SA-50 Plus apparently
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B06XYKNRXJ/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1495824927&sr=8-20&keywords=amplifier&th=1
aack this looked like a good deal too maybe, with the remote, sold out tho
I haven't decided for sure which amp I'm going to use yet but currently I'm leaning towards this one. I hate to mess with USB audio output because i can't imagine it NOT being buggy. Optical has it's pitfalls for me too, because I was hoping to run two cords from the back so I can have a headphone amp as well. If I use plain old 3.5mm then I could use a simple splitter but it sounds like optical is not so easy to split. I don't think that Windows simultaneously outputs to multiple rear sources natively but I could be wrong.
Agreed with the older receiver, if you want something smaller and new SMSL SA-50 or SMSL AD18
A Chromecast Audio plus SMSL SA-50 PLUS 50WX2 HIFI Amplifier/DAC/Music Player w/ Remote Control,Digital Power Amplifier,TAS5766M, OLED Display, USB/SD Reader, 3.5mm AUX/Optical Input Jack, Full Digital https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYKNRXJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_L7hTAb762ZFRB? I gather this isn't quite what you're looking for, but it's under your budget and will handle lossless streaming from Tidal HiFi as well as Spotify (CCA>spdif on amp) and the amp specs say it will play lossless files (not sure about gapless). This probably is a lower end solution than you're looking for but perhaps a starting point. And I get that you're not looking for a DAC and Poweramp.
Hi, I need an Amp for TV. Mostly TV shows/movies. Would anyone recommend or not recommend one of these 3. I recently bought Def Tech SM45.
Sabaj Audio A2
FX Audio Digital Amplifier
SMSL SA-50 Plus
You think this one will do the trick?
SMSL SA-50 PLUS 50WX2 HIFI Amplifier/DAC/Music Player w/ Remote Control,Digital Power Amplifier,TAS5766M, OLED Display, USB/SD Reader, 3.5mm AUX/Optical Input Jack, Full Digital https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYKNRXJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8316Ab54AEYB5
Yeah, those KEF's are way out of my price limit, but thanks anyway. The thing is, local shops have much reduced offer - many speakers, that one can get on e.g. Amazon.de, are not available here. And I will probably buy something from Amazon, because they offer best prices and have enormous offer.
If I am to buy passive speakers, I could spend around 100€ on them, and around 50€ for an amp. I was already looking at Q Acoustics 2010I, as scannerJoe recommended. But, as I am complete noob in terms of amps, could you please point me to some not-complete-shit amp in the 50-100€ price range that would go along with those speakers? I was looking at SMSL and [Nobsound] (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B017K9VU02/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2M8DEO6BEJ1QF) - what do you say?
Hi. I've been searching for a used turntable for a couple of weeks now and have come across a Pioneer PL12 on Gumtree. Other than asking the owner typical questions about the upkeep, can anyone offer some thoughts on this TT?
I've also been looking at receivers. I already have the Behringer PP4400 and I'm going for Wharfedale Diamond 9.1's. Would this receiver/amp be okay? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B06XYKNRXJ/ref=mh_s9_acsd_simh_bDVZFP_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-4&pf_rd_r=BWPVEB0865B21ZH759KW&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=4c0b3886-d519-588f-a5c8-f36aaf17bf0e&pf_rd_i=199616031&th=1&psc=1
As you can tell I'm on a budget but would like a receiver that would allow me to use the system as an all-in-one entertainment system with my PS4 as well (already have a optical adapter).
Thanks. When you say "beefier," do you mean wattage? Is 50W (like, say, this one https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Audio-Amplifier-Professional-Speakers/dp/B071XQGYRJ/ref=pd_sbs_267_4/134-0212946-4203274?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B071XQGYRJ&pd_rd_r=7a787e98-e4b8-4685-99cf-38525c1e6a86&pd_rd_w=wWQ5i&pd_rd_wg=mLloJ&pf_rd_p=1c11b7ff-9ffb-4ba6-8036-be1b0afa79bb&pf_rd_r=QKBHRD21P6B0S5YPPSSZ&psc=1&refRID=QKBHRD21P6B0S5YPPSSZ ) going to do it for outdoor movies, or should it be 100W?
Schiit Modi 2 Uber for the DAC and a generic 100W TPA3116 amp for the speakers. The speakers are KEF Q100s and the sub is a Klipsch R-12SW. Also, looks like the receiver is actually the AVR-590, as I was mistaken originally. Think those are all the sound quality bits.
EDIT: Found the amp https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Audio-Amplifier-Professional-Speakers/dp/B071XQGYRJ/
Not the most elegant solution but something like this: https://www.amazon.com/KK-R1-B2-D1-Banana%EF%BC%884banana%EF%BC%89-1-64Foot-Pair-3-28Foot/dp/B01MQ1URD8
These would be some amps around your price range, RCA in with Speaker out. That may be the better route.
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Audio-Amplifier-Professional-Speakers/dp/B071XQGYRJ
Well all depends on the speakers and their number that you want to drive but something like this would probably do.
This looks like it might do the trick for you. Says it's 50w x 2 so it should be enough power.
2 Channel Stereo Audio Class D Amplifier Mini Hi-Fi Professional Digital Amp for Home Speakers 50W x 2 - V1.0G https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XQGYRJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oP-5CbNH8WC00
I have something similar to this: https://www.amazon.ca/Amplifier-Channel-Bookshelf-Computer-Speakers/dp/B071XQGYRJ/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1537932242&sr=8-13&keywords=speaker%2Bamplifier%2Bhome&th=1
It would be nice to control the subwoofer output via the amplifier, but I suppose if need be I could just adjust the volume on my computer.
Ideally I would have an amp with a sub pre-amp output, but haven't been able to find one yet. If I went with something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Subwoofer-Audio/dp/B07CNMQ358/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1537936922&sr=8-7&keywords=2.1+amplifier+subwoofer would I be able to safely connect the sub to the amp's output? I don't have a good understanding on what is amplified... is it voltage, current, or both?
This is good to know. As is probably obvious, I'm a neophyte over here. I was basing it solely on the rating provided by Polk, so if I can get away with less, that's ok with me. I'm really just looking to try something new with the tubes and hoping not to break the bank while doing it.
On another note, I do use headphones (I have Audio Technica MSR7s, so nothing insane). I just run them from my headphone amp/DAC. I did consider trying something like this:
Run the Schiit as a DAC (I currently have this amp/DAC), then go to a Dilvpoetry TUBE-1 as a preamp/tube buffer, then a Fosi power amp then to the speakers. $100 Canadian all in and shipped - maybe that's a decent way to get my feet wet? It's probably not the greatest thing in the world, but it allows me to upgrade as stuff breaks and I'm not shedding tears over $100.
Reference 152s are pretty great for computer speakers. Don't hit the low bass, but can always add a subwoofer later. 5 year warranty, $139.99. $349.99 brand new.
​
Just get an external amp like FOSI or something else from Amazon. I did this for a short while, then eventually said the hell with it, and bought Vanatoo Transparent One Encores. Blew my budget a bit.
​
Links:
https://www.harmanaudio.com/speakers/R152BK-Z.html?mrkgcl=989&mrkgadid=3312936110&utm_campaign=Con%7CGSC%7CProduct&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=paid-search&utm_term=BrandinfinityProductType1home_audio_speakers&utm_content=Infinity&creative=80882873723941&device=c&matchtype=e
​
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated-Speakers/dp/B076P2VS9H/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=fosi+amp&qid=1567089370&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=ATV3LXZ3ZXOW8&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTjc4SERTWDhRVkFDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODgxMTI3MUY4MjVGVzQzVjRPSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzYyOTI0MTE0V1JFTlJKNFBaSSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
This would be best as a gift :
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-System-Bluetooth-Technology-GTK-XB72/dp/B07PBFKXW9/ref=sxin_0_ac_d_pm?ac_md=4-2-QmV0d2VlbiAkMTUwIGFuZCAkMzAw&keywords=sony+bluetooth+speaker&pd_rd_i=B07PBFKXW9&pd_rd_r=78ee09fb-cec9-465f-98a6-7d60015fab7f&pd_rd_w=JVPdS&pd_rd_wg=eZKmZ&pf_rd_p=64aaff2e-3b89-4fee-a107-2469ecbc5733&pf_rd_r=HDCYMB8KJMHEMGTPENWZ&qid=1564251469&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Also,you could always also choose to gift these together,would last a lifetime of sound,way greater value for money.I would get these but where Im at but import costs more.anyways,these are way better value for money IMO :
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-NS-6490-Bookshelf-Speakers-Finish/dp/B00018Q4GA/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1MLPWO3G99XBY&keywords=polk+t15&qid=1564251543&s=gateway&sprefix=polk+t1%2Caps%2C363&sr=8-5
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated-Speakers/dp/B076P2VS9H/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=amplifier&qid=1564251573&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Ok, I'm looking at these two now.
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Audio-Amplifier-Speakers-Control/dp/B076P2VS9H/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JESRNKO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1V0149CC6WCAD&psc=1
Ok m8, so after researching more, looks like MB42X is one of the best one out there and the bad review is from people who don't have subwoofer and they expect lower frequency from this speaker since I'm already going to get a Dayton 1000 sub, I believe MB42X is going to perfect for me. especially reviews say it performs really good on mid-range which is important for me since I watch a lot of movies. so here is my final list, can you tell me if I'm missing something like if the banana plug is correct (and how many of them I need?), and do I need the cable (no cable comes with the speaker?) and check for the AMP if it's good enough.
Should be able to thread your speaker wire through a hole on the speaker terminals. If you buy some banana plugs you can affix those to your speaker wire to make it a little more plug and play.
You may want a 2 zone amp or one with more speaker outputs. Also probably should check to see what the speaker wattage and ohms rating is so you can find an amp that matches. My whole point was that you may be able to find a smaller class D amp that gets the job done in a quarter of the space than a larger stereo receiver.
I’m powering 4 in ceiling speakers off this little amp in my wife’s office, no Bluetooth but sounds great - 2 Channel Stereo Audio... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076P2VS9H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you have passive speakers you are gonna need a phono pre-am like this. You will also need an audio amplifier like this to power the speakers. Recently set up a 45 station, and this set-up worked a treat with my Advent Loudspeakers.
Something to think about, for whole house audio it may be smarter to use an echo dot. It’ll give you great control and smart features that aren’t as accessible if you’re going to use AVR’s as the central “brains” of the system. In your situation I would get a small amp or
in-wall ampfor each pair of speakers. Then add an echo dot or echo input (or fire tv cube... or the show... or spot).
I don't have a sound card or DAC in my PC. I do stream my music.
What is the difference between the AD13 and somthing like this that was on the list recomeded by the other user?
Is there an issue with the AD 13 being a 30 W amp when these speakers are rated for 100w?
Okay great! Would one of these work for my TV with a roku and chromecast hooked up? Essentially, would I be able to have all audio from my TV come out of the speakers? I think I can use my TVs 3.5mm audio out to the receiver and then anything played through the TV would have output to the speakers.
I was looking at this one on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076P2VS9H/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_eCEMDbFRX0FZ7
My living setup is my more expensive setup with Klipsch. I'm running a cheaper setup in the game room. Right now I have Boston Acoustics CR67s hooked up to Fosi 2 Channel.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076P2VS9H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the sub I have. https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-PSW10-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=boston+acoustics&qid=1570216780&s=electronics&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=1-9
Would this do the trick? One each for the patio, den, and master bedroom. Chromecast Audio attached to each one. I'm not blasting music for house parties, just ambiance for backyard life and study time in the den... and whatever time in the master. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076P2VS9H/ref=psdc_537344_t2_B06XZL2PQD
Can someone review this and make sure i'm not going to blow a sub? This is the amp i apparently need to make sure it is holds steady at 2 ohms.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076P2VS9H?pf_rd_p=d1f45e03-8b73-4c9a-9beb-4819111bef9a&pf_rd_r=EWTR2D86EBGN05G9RNMG
Thank you so much. This may sound dumb but I have had the hardest time understanding this until now. I think I'm going to go with this polk. If you have the time, I would seriously appreciate just one more ELI5 on how where you would set the low pass (it will be paird with the Wharfedales), what the phase means, do you have to hook up both L and R if you have an amp w/ subout?. Lastly, my mini amp only has L and R outputs. Should I spend the money and get a new amp w/ sub out or run the regular speaker wire through the sub? Sorry for all the questions lol.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076P2VS9H/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107PSW10B/Polk-Audio-PSW10-Black.html
Wouldn’t that mean I’m missing out on the louder possibilities using the speakers with an underpowered amp? I realize it’d get pretty loud before it’s anywhere near all the way obviously, but is it a noticeable restriction?
I see this nice amp here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076P2VS9H/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATV3LXZ3ZXOW8&psc=1
More expensive though than the SA50. It would be more powerful but I know that doesn’t even mean much louder. But yeah it advertises output wattage at 75*2. Would it not be better?
A different strategy would be to get an additional set of 8 ohm speakers and wire them in parallel so that you are running 4 ohms on each side. Just use a 12 volt (high amp) power supply. It seems counter-intuitive that Hifiberry is recommending lower voltage for lower ohms. I think they don't want it to overheat or something.
​
I have these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00MGQAH2M - I got mine for $85, but you can still get them for around $100.
​
They are fairly efficient too.
​
The idea here is to have speakers near each of your listening positions. There may be a font-back balance issue - but I am guessing that wiring a pot on each side could solve that. Left/right you fix via DSP (like volume too).
​
Question: once (and if) the Hifiberry amp dies, how are you going to get audio out of your Raspberry? Do you have a headphone jack or preouts somewhere already? There's a better way to do this if you have those, BTW.
​
If you just want a beater amp that will likely never die - get this - I have one and it seems pretty good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076P2VS9H/
Oh... lazy links.
When I purchased mine, the only place to get the Atom was from JDS Labs themselves. https://www.jdslabs.com
The Topping D10's however are on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-es9018k2m-opa2134-Decoder-Amplifier/dp/B07B46KQVP
TOPPING D10 Mini USB DAC CSS XMOS xu208 es9018k2m opa2134 Decoder Audio Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B46KQVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nd1mDb7TXD3KF
And like any of the amps already posted. Maybe 200 deep shipped.
Or post in the avexchange sub reddit and get it cheaper used. A lot of headphone related amps and dacs in there
Headphones: Sennheiser HD 660 S (Open) | Beyerdynamic DT 1770 Pro (Closed)
DAC: Topping D10
Amp: JDS Labs Atom
Edit: Just noticed you're looking for closed-back
For $105 you could just get a DAC. Supports PCM384kHz/32bit https://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-es9018k2m-opa2134-Decoder-Amplifier/dp/B07B46KQVP
Neither will be the "best" solution, but shooting for the best can seriously damage your wallet.
The E10k will provide enough power and is an adequate DAC as well, so it or the FX Audio DAC X6 are pretty much the least you want with these headphones if you are going to the trouble of buying external components.
I might get a Schiit Magni 3 instead and use the built in DAC of your computer until you can add an external DAC. You'd need the Magni 3 and a cable with a 3.5mm jack and RCA jacks on the other end in order to connect the Magni to your computer. This assumes you aren't getting any extraneous noise from your computer audio right now, like hissing, humming or static. Turn up the volume on the computer close to 100% and control volume to the headphones with the knob on the Magni 3.
A standalone DAC to add later would be something like the Topping D10, D30 or the JDSLabs OL DAC.
I’m just using this cheap fossi class d amp
https://www.amazon.com/BT20A-Bluetooth-Audio-Amplifier-Integrated/dp/B07BQC7GNL
It’s enough to drive the speakers which are 60 wpc - I’ve got pioneer bookshelves hooked up now but at their current location I don’t need them to be weather proof.
Awesome! What does the wpc stand for?
How does this amp look to you?
https://www.amazon.com/BT20A-Bluetooth-Audio-Amplifier-Integrated/dp/B07BQC7GNL/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=200w+bluetooth+amplifier&qid=1564508266&s=gateway&sr=8-12
So I'm by no means a hobbyist. In fact, as of today I just purchased my first pair of ELAC bookshelf speakers. Over at r/buildapcsales, people were raving over these speakers for the price. So I bit! The problem is I know next to nothing about how to set these things up.
​
I know I need Banna plugs, speaker wire and an amp (and a sub ^(ill probably buy a) ^(Polk) ^(later)). I will be using these with my new PC I'm building currently. I'd also like to be able to run my echo do (mainly for Alexa functions and streaming music) through this system.
​
I have a few amps in my cart atm via Amazon.
​
So if I'm planning on sync devices via the echo I don't technically need Bluetooth receiver in my amp, right? What about if I have a Bluetooth in my motherboard? I'm not sure if there's a difference between devices like keyboards and audio devices with Bluetooth.
​
Thanks for the Help Experts,
u/rnplyr1985
Is there an advantage to having that amp and Chromecast Audio versus something like the Fosi BT20A?
How about this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BQC7GNL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BuNVCbE1TPGQY
(yes it's class D, I'm just using them for casual listening in my bedroom)
Noob here. I'm an IT guy that's been tasked with adding a sound system for background music for a very small coffeeshop. Basically, I've got 1 room to provide sound for that is approximately 20' x 30' with 9' ceilings. My budget for doing this is around $450.
I've been looking at amplifiers like this
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audio-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=yamaha+rs202bl&qid=1571585324&sr=8-4
or this
https://www.amazon.com/BT20A-Bluetooth-Audio-Amplifier-Integrated/dp/B07BQC7GNL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=bt20a&qid=1571585361&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFMNkRZM09SVjlBS1YmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxMTkwMDdKUFhOSFJDQlJLQlomZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDEyNjQ1NEE4OVROMFlKSjc5WSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
and putting in ceiling speakers like this
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Ceiling-Speakers-Placement/dp/B00006BMQT/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=polk+in+ceiling&qid=1571585254&sr=8-3
Will I be fine with what I have listed, or are there better options, especially for the amplifier?
That Edifier one looks like its exactly what I am looking for! However it is much too expensive. I have a few of these displays that I want audio on but I don't care about the quality. Small size and low cost speaker would be ideal.
What keywords did you use to find a speaker with that connectivity?
If I use a lowcost amp like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MBUX40/ -- i still run into the issue of finding speakers to connect to it. I haven't seen any small and low cost speakers that have this type of connection to an amp.
I have a pair of speakers that I really like, from an old radio system. They plug into the radio via spring clips and I think they sound good. (I'm more of a headphone guy so my only other speakers are the crappy ones I have plugged into my PC -- for all I know these radio speakers are complete crap to you all.) I was thinking about plugging them to my PC somehow but I'm having issues finding a way to do it.
I've gathered so far that they're passive, meaning I'd need an amplifier. All well and good, but these speakers seem to be special snowflakes at 4 Ohms and 10 W maximum power. There's a slew of amplifiers that support speakers 2-8/4-8 Ohms, but they claim 20W output, and I'm not sure how well that'd go over if connected.
So ... what do I do if I want to see these speakers connected to my computer?
what if I added a super cheap amp (like this)? Or is the speaker itself just not capable of moving air like I would need it to? I'm not looking for anything crazy, just trying to add a little extra low end presence.
Would these cheap amplifiers be useless? (considering I'm not too worried about sound quality and would only have about £20 to spend on second hand speakers anyway)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/LEPY-2024A-Plus-Amplifier/dp/B00SATAEEA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503603699&sr=8-3&keywords=amplifier
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ONEU-Amplifier-Subwoofer-Amplifiers-Speakers/dp/B019MBUX40/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1503603699&sr=8-12&keywords=amplifier
I'd really like to find something that can stand on its own without a sub, since none of my groomsmen will have a sub. Other than the Sprites, it looks like the rest of those were designed to be paired w/ a sub.
I saw the Sprites original design was a boombox, which I thought was pretty cool. I think that would be the most practical form that my groomsmen would use. Then I got to thinking, if it's going to be a boombox it needs to have bluetoof and I need to fit an amp and battery. Here's what I came up w/:
speakers $42.70
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd90-8-3-1-2-aluminum-cone-full-range-driver-8-ohm--290-210
port tubes $5.14
http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-1-3-8-id-adjustable--260-388
filter parts $17.19
http://www.parts-express.com/jantzen-audio-090mh-20-awg-air-core-inductor-crossover-coil--255-046
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dnr-20-20-ohm-10w-precision-audio-grade-resistor--004-20
amp $16.99
https://www.amazon.com/INSMA-TDA7492P-Amplifier-Wireless-Bluetooth/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1467991447&sr=1-1&keywords=bluetooth+speaker+amp+board
battery $15
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1250-Alarm-Battery-Terminals/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1468001600&sr=8-7&keywords=12v+sla+battery
battery charger $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LICD2TU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATW4RRWB3JMSM
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ18WLK/ref=crt_ewc_img_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LUL054Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A11A70Q280RHPK
After adding all that I ended up at about $130 per which is too high. How can I get that down?
What if I used 1 driver per boombox instead of 2...do you think that would still sound decent or is it not going to get loud enough by itself?
Hi, I am looking for help replacing the amplifier of my busted M-Audio AV40 Studiophile monitor speakers. The amp is dead and I have little knowledge of electronics. My question is regarding the following type of amplifiers:
https://www.amazon.com/TDA7492P-Amplifier-Wireless-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487097907&sr=1-1&keywords=TDA+7492
Can I simply replace the old board with one such as that one? or do I need another component to separate the signal to each of the drivers in each speaker? Its a 2 speaker system, with woofer and tweeter each, no stand alone woofer. I think the woofer frequency is 80hz to 2.7khz, not sure about the tweeter driver. Here are the specs of the monitors:
http://www.m-audio.com/products/view/studiophile-av-40 (features/support tab)
And what kind of quality difference should I expect by replacing the old board with this one? Those are some damn good monitors but they are kind of old, I suppose it wont be that difficult to approach the quality for a budget.
The main question remains tho... Do I need a crossover, filter, divider for one, none, or both speakers? I only know those are components, not sure if I need them. Thanks, guys.
Do you have any suggestions?
Right now I'm using this to connect with Bluetooth : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_82k4BbCDEH8CP
I looked up AV-Receivers and they're several hundred dollars (from what i saw) and I'm kinda hoping i don't need to spend that much to just connect through RCA cables instead of Bluetooth
if you just want to stream audio to it from another device.
amazon link
or from china link
i've setup things with the 2nd item, works fine. no soldering on either, unless you want to replace the crap switches... or move them off the board.
Im using this 😊
INSMA TDA7492P Chip 25W+25W Wireless Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver Digital Amplifier Board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_igCLzbX7RN3CA
If the one has anything close to 200w, most of that would have to be the subwoofer channel. I'm deeply skeptical.
The Lepai is not an amazing amp. According to one reviewer, his bench tested at a realistic 7w per channel, nowhere near the 20 advertised. But it gets the job done, it's compact, reasonably well built, and it's a proven design that lots of people use. My Lepai drives my commercially-made 2-way 8-ohm bookshelf speakers quite well, JBLs and Polks. It does NOT like my Carmody Classix IIs, which are lower sensitivity than the big-brand ones. They pop and break up if you try and push it, which does not happen when I run them off my 85w/channel Yamaha receiver.
Remember that if the battery life is an issue, and for a suitcase boombox I assume it will be, the Elegiant is most likely going to pull more current than the Lepai in order to power the subwoofer channel. I'd keep it simple here and go with the Lepai.
If you're willing to buy something that's basically a bare board without a case, there are more options.
This one claims 50 watts/channel and has integrated bluetooth, but no minijack input.
This one doesn't have bluetooth but it's extremely cheap and claims 35w/channel.
My bad, I meant to post this one (the ones I actually bought)
I wired together an old pair of passive speakers on top of our kitchen cabinets. Got power from an old 9v adapter to a $13 TDA7492P bluetooth amp. The echo dot is about 10 feet away on a wall.
They're always on/connected. No problems so far.
FX Audio DAC-X6 or the Micca OriGen+ would easily drive them if you need a DAC/AMP combo.
Otherwise, yeah the Magni 3 would be a good choice if you already have a DAC.
It is the FX Audio DAC-X6
I'm looking for desktop speakers in the 200-300 range. I currently use a FX Audio DAC-X6 for my Sennheiser CX300 and have a HifiMan HE-400 on the way.
You may have guess given my headphone choice: I'm more of a basshead than full audiophile. And I'm looking for the same in desktop speakers.
THE BIG CATCH: No dedicated sub. My downstairs neighbor is a **** so I'd like to get a pair of speakers that have decent bass out of the box.
I've been eyeballing the Kanto YU4 and the Audioengine A5+ because I'd rather not get a separate amp, but I'm not sure and wanted to hear some opinions.
thanks
dumb question, but if I get a DAC, like sayyy this one
then would I still need the Preamp? what extra would the preamp do for me? I'm just getting into this whole shebang and kinda wondering if I need ALL the pieces or if I just need to get a decent DAC and call it a day.
> FX-Audio DACX3
I would go for the X6 not the X3.. and for a beginner setup it should sound leaps and bounds better than what you are experiencing now.
Also, if you go with a DT990 or DT770, consider replacing the ear pads with aftermarkets ones. I put these on my DT990s.
As far as install, plug the power into the wall, and plug a USB cable into your PC. Your operating system will automatically create a new output source.. typically it will be called "USB Audio Codec" or something similar. Select that as your default playback, plug the headphones into the DAC/Amp, and you are good to go.
You're going to have to make some compromises.
You could go with a decent headset such as the Sennheiser PC37X, and use your on-board audio, which is probably what I'd recommend for your budget, and just add a dac/amp later on when you can afford it. This will give you the best value for your budget.
Alternatively you could go with a cheaper pair of headphones and a $5-10 mic (I'm not too familiar with ones sub $100 though, so can't help you there.) and something like an FX-Audio Dac X6 or a used Dragonfly Black. I see them on Craigslist every now and then for around $50.
Personally, with your budget I'd start with a decent pair of headphones and a cheap mic, or headset, and save for a schiit stack.
Schiit Modi Dac & Schiit Magni Amp
Will the one I linked below work also? I like the idea of the volume control knob and that it looks pretty stylish as well as the RCA’s are in the back of the unit.
Does it matter that it is also an amp as well as a DAC? My audioengine speakers are powered with a built in amp.
Thanks. FX Audio DAC X6
This is the DAC/ amp I use and it has decent reviews.
FX Audio DAC-X6 24BIT/192 Optical/Coaxial/USB Digital Audio Amplifier DAC Decoder (Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HERNVQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_K1nRDbZ59D9AA
Thanks for the reply! Would the FX Audio DAC-X6 do the job?
get this
https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B01HERNVQQ
dac and amp combo
65usd compared to evga asking 250usd for their sound card - evga is definitely not worth almost 4 times the asking price..
review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17d5L5bcKvA
I have it paired with sennheiser 558 and am completely satisfied
I bought the FX Audio DAC-X6 DAC/Amp a few months back and it has been working great.
Also, Zeos seems to like it, link
Don't get a soundcard. Get a amp/dac combo, such as this. The X2s are not hard to drive so you should not be having trouble with them, though. I'm confused by what you mean by something that has an input for a mouse.
Well I don't have any of the audio equipment yet for my desk but the stuff I was looking at was,
The Polk Audio PSW10
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer-Single/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1524763629&sr=8-5&keywords=sub
And for the amp i'm still unsure but something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01M0SL7YC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1524763740&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=micca+amp&psc=1
And for the speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524763772&sr=8-1&keywords=andrew+jones+speakers
That's all assuming I wouldn't have powered speakers.
Cool, thanks. So just to be sure, is this what you were talking about? I'm only asking because it only has 2 reviews so I just wanted to be careful before purchasing.
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01M0SL7YC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511197721&sr=1-1&keywords=micca+origain
You can easily do an amp plus passive speakers right now.
​
Speakers:
Sony SSCS5 - Amazon for $73
or Best Buy for $75
​
Amp:
SMSL SA50 - Amazon for $67
Micca Origain - Amazon for $80
​
They will do better than any active speaker under $150.
Likely just an rca to 3.5mm to my computer. Would something like this this work?
Micca MB42X
Micca Origain
This setup is double your budget (sorry) and if you can save up, I think you'll get more mileage out it or something similar.
With the money you save you'd be able to pick up a solid amp and keep everything module. Something like the
Check this out at Amazon.com - Micca OriGain Compact Stereo Integrated Amplifier 50W x 2 (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0SL7YC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_tzADDbNSTVTF9
Would be able to amplify your dac well enough.
Active speakers are great and all but they all have tjoer drawbacks in terms of lack of versatility I. E. No passive crossover means you can never reuse them as passive satellites and are forced to use the internal amp no matter if you want to so you can add a tube section or anything like that.
In fact if you got active speakers it would likely already have a dac built in so you'd be spending extra money for no reason.
If you're basing it around a schit modi dac all you need is a basic stereo amp with LFE out for a sub and if you want to make sure it also has Phono in so you can add a turn table if you ever think you might be interested.
Down the line if you ever want to upgrade to surround sound you can reuse them as satellite or height surrounds whereas with active speakers you cannot.
Hey guys, I am new to this community. I built some C-notes and paired it with an Micca Origain:
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https://smile.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01M0SL7YC?sa-no-redirect=1
​
I get some distortion in the mids when I have my PC at 100% volume and the Origain at say 35% and up. Where should I start to troubleshoot this?
Long time lurker, first time poster :)
I'm trying to find an amp solution for my desktop setup. I switch between speakers and headphones frequently, my current DaytonAudio DTA-120 has decided to start to fail on me. Frequently one or both monitors will fizzle/crackle when I turn it on and not produce sound, I've tested the monitors with my home theater amp and no problem there. 100% of the time if the amp is on and I unplug my headphones, one or two speakers will fizzle out/not work. I'm trying to decide if I should be looking into a higher quality headphone/speaker combo amp (although they're hard to find without going full size) or break it out into two separate amps, like the Magni for my headphones and Micca Origain (? unsure about this one) for speakers and just split coming off the DAC.
Edit: Should also add the solution I'm looking for is < $300, I'm OK with used items.
tons of options.
Micca Oragain to go all micca - https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01M0SL7YC
SMSL SA50 or SA36
If you want a built in DAC, Topping MX3 or SMSL AD18
You can get a small amp that fits under your monitor. But also, definitely look around for used Kantos!
Newly acquired audio gear:
Tiki the parakeet also pictured. He too can produce loud audio.
&#x200B;
Guess what the speaker stands are made of... They're definitely not stacked toilet paper rolls wrapped in black construction paper.
This Ad18? The amp costs more than the speakers.
Price History
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^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fcta1ew%2Fmicca_rb42_reference_bookshelf_speaker_with4inch%2Fey48t9n%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
They are the Q Acoustics 3020i in white. I have them paired up with a Klipsch 10" reference sub and drive them with an SMSL AD18 and I'm incredibly pleased with the sound quality of the setup.
It is mostly for recording, it is a firewire I/O audio interface. It has monitor outputs and a headphone output and sounds fantastic, really a great piece of equipment for $200. I use it with my pair of Bx5a's and it was a big step up from my previous setup, but these are active monitors. According to TCElectronic it can power passive monitors too but I don't trust it will get the job done.
Tell me what you think of this combo:
Monitors and Amp
I would still include the Konnekt6 in this setup, so it would be: computer -> konnekt6 -> amp -> monitors.
with that sub would this http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-APA150-150-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B000VKXLBO/ref=zg_bs_537344_35 amp work with these http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&amp;cp_id=10906&amp;cs_id=1090603&amp;p_id=10800&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2 speakers?
Edit: I just found the entry level guide on the main page and I think I'll give that a read
My Debut has the Ortofon red cartridge.
So as long as the amp has at least 75 watt/ch and 4 ohms or greater I'll be good, considering I go with those speakers? Would this be a decent match? Looks to be exactly 75 watts @ 4 ohms if I'm not mistaken.
I'm not against a vintage amp, but I was hoping to get something more compact since space is an issue, and it looks like most vintage amps are huge. Plus craigslist doesn't have too many options for me.
I was thinking you were considering the Dayton APA-150: http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-APA150-150-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B000VKXLBO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413841500&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=dayton+150
I think those would be a better choice than the mini amp.
If you're on a budget the Dayton APA150 will push them just fine. I'm using one with a pair of notoriously difficult to drive Elac Debut B6s and they sound great.
I was wondering if someone could let me know if this pairing is a decent setup (new to speaker systems and looking for advice).
Audioengine HDP6 speakers : https://audioengineusa.com/shop/passivespeakers/hdp6-passive-speakers/?attribute_pa_finish=walnut
with
Dayton Audio APA150 :
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-APA150-150-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B000VKXLBO/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520378300&amp;sr=1-2&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A1267489011%2Cp_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A1267493011%7C1267492011
or
Monoprice Amp:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&amp;cp_id=10919&amp;cs_id=1091903&amp;p_id=16153&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
or
Harman Kardon 3770 or 3700
Are these well matched?
Would this be a recommended combination?
Thanks!
I saw this one the Dayton Audio APA150, thoughts?
https://smile.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-APA150-150-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B000VKXLBO/ref=sr_1_26?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504475360&amp;sr=1-26&amp;keywords=amplifier
Thanks. Decided to get Dayton Audio 75WPC at 4 ohms that's manual claims under 0.01% THD and above 100 dB SNR with two impedance matching volume knobs (for a deck zone - four 8 ohm speakers and a pool zone - four 8 ohm speakers).
So I'll run the volume knobs in parallel each set at 8 ohms, so the receiver sees 4 ohms and has 75 WPC (so each volume knob has up to 37.5 W; so with 4 speakers in a zone, it's ~18W per speaker).
Also opted for this amp as it as it apparently has an auto-on feature (goes into standby with no signal).
I'm eyeing the Dayton Audio APA150 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VKXLBO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492840661&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=dayton+audio+150&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41QxrKMFGKL&amp;ref=plSrch
Sorry to keep bugging you! I have been researching some more parts a little and I was wondering if I can shell out the extra cash if it is worth it to go with something like this rather than the amp you listed?:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKXLBO/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_g23_i5?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=0WNN8AJX4E62GF26FBAQ&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=470938631&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
I got one of these and I love it.
Dayton Audio APA150 150-Watts Power Amplifier (Black)
http://amzn.com/B000VKXLBO
My only beef, and maybe this is common with component amps, but it takes ~30 min to fully warm up.
Shit. See this is what I need to know. Someone on Amazon suggested this amp. Thank you for the information. I'll replace it. Will forty watt amp work? Like this one
Home Audio Power Amplifier System - 2X40W Mini Portable Dual Channel Surround Sound Stereo Receiver Box w/ LED - For Amplified Subwoofer Speakers, CD DVD Player, Theater via 3.5mm RCA - Pyle PCA2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P2VV50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CtA5BbJ330NKY
Is what I got.
I'm a totally new to this, and I need some help!
I have two speakers that came with this RCA stereo I got for Christmas forever ago. I've been using the speakers along with the middle part for TV speakers (using the headphones output jack, and a L/R audio input), but I want to replace it with just an amplifier. I'm not sure what my best decision is.
The speakers are:
Impedance 6Ω
Rated Power 40W
After trying to figure everything out, I thought that this Pyle 2x40W is what I would want, but the reviews are very mixed and I'm not sure I want to waste my money on it.
I thought that I would sacrifice the max output and settle with this Lepai 2x20w that has really good reviews.
Is this a good choice? Is there a good 2x40w amp that I missed?
Some help would be greatly appreciated!
Something like this is what you want. Then you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA cable and you're golden. Even [cheaper alternative] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0146LFVSE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458969825&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=mini+amplifier&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51-m4ORJqQL&amp;ref=plSrch). Hope I helped :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P2VV50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_1FyCzbGA15YRP
31 bucks and you're golden.
New to this! I recently got this big ass speaker for free while moving, and I'm trying to get it set up. Problem is that I don't have any idea what I'm doing. I also have no details about the speaker itself in terms of impedance or really anything.
I'm pretty sure I need a power amp (like this?) to power it (connected using standard speaker wire and maybe banana plugs), and I'm also wondering if I should get something like this Monoprice hybrid tube amp to serve as a preamp.
Am I on the right track?
This is simple, but might not do your Klipsch speakers justice.
If you're really on a budget, try the thrift store route for speakers, and use them with a cheap amplifier.
You'll have to look around, but you could probably buy some decent older speakers for $50 for a pair. Use them with something like this, and you'll have loads of sound for less than $100.
Just to let you know earphone jacks can only output just so much power and if you try to pull too much of a load from the earphone jack "amp" then you risk the chance of burning out the jack. So depending on how these stereo speakers are made, they might try to draw too many amps OR there won't be enough power from the earphone jack to run the speakers.
If you really want to use old stereo speakers on your computer, then you should really get an external speaker amplifier such as: https://smile.amazon.com/Home-Audio-Power-Amplifier-System/dp/B001P2VV50/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=external+computer+speaker+amp&qid=1555797586&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Would this work a little better for my speakers?
To start off with, here are a few things to read to get you started:
Basically you don't want a turntable that has anything built in like speakers or a pre-amp. These are added at the expense of quality components. You will need an amp, and possibly a pre-amp if the amp you get does not have a phono input on it already. When buying a turntable, you might as well get something nice, because the upgrade itch comes hard and fast. If you already have speakers, I would recommend just using those for now. Remember though, speakers are probably the most important part of your sound chain. I would recommend keeping an eye on craigslist for something awesome. No rush, but pounce if you happen on a deal.
As to what amps do. Turntables output at a very low volume. The pre-amp boosts the volume and equalizes the sound to a "line-in" level. Basically, the same output that a CD player would do. After that, you need to boost the volume to a listenable level. This is what a regular amplifier does. In order of importance, a good pre-amp can work wonders. As for regular amps, they are one of the least important parts of your signal chain as long as it isn't absolute shit and can drive your speakers. They are just boosting volume.
For maintenance, there isn't too much once you get it set up and playing. Change the stylus when needed is pretty much it. Maybe the occasional lubrication once every year or two, but I've been fine so far. The only maintenance I could really think of you having to do would possibly be to spray some Deoxit if something isn't working quite like it should, but that isn't a problem. A quick search will get you taken care of there.
In Myrtle Beach, this Toshiba might not be too bad, especially if you could get it for $65 instead of $75.
Back home, this Pioneer PL-4 would be a nice buy as well for around $50. It also doesn't say Technics in the listing, but here is a Technics SL-1950 for $100.
Considering everything works as it should, I would get the Technics SL-1950. It has more documentation on the internet, and a much better chance of help from people familiar with Technics if you have any questions. See if you can haggle to around $85-$90, but it is still probably worth the $100 if they won't budge. Note that any used turntable you buy should probably have the needle replaced as well.
As for an amp and receiver, I would recommend getting something from the 70's with a silver face by Japanese companies that you have heard the names of before. Marantz, Yamaha, JVC, Pioneer, Sansui, Kenwood, etc. all made some excellent receivers. Here are a few examples of the look I am talking about. These will last a lifetime and will rock most anything you put into them. Unfortunately, with your budget and location I didn't see anything that will fit the bill.
Until then, I recommend you rock something like this pre-amp for $15, and this amp for $36. Start saving and then cruise craigslist, flea markets, and antique malls for one of those vintage beasts.
Holy shit, I just realized I sent a wall of text your way. I think that will get you headed in the right direction though.
tl;dr: This turntable, this pre-amp, and this amp, is right at $150, and possibly less depending on your negotiating skills. Use the speakers you have for now. Buy a new needle for whatever deck you get.
I'd say the cheapest option would be to scour amazon for cheap, entry level gear. If you search phono preamp some solutions would show up. As far as amps go, [here is a relatively inexpensive] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P2VV50/ref=asc_df_B001P2VV502188142?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;tag=cnet-ce-20&amp;linkCode=asn&amp;creative=395093&amp;creativeASIN=B001P2VV50) one to start off with. Please note I am not recommending this specific one, though it does have some good reviews. I am just using it as an example as to what you could look for as far as low power amps for a turntable. Needledoctor.com will have a lot amps too but most of them are pricey. I like looking here because it gives you an idea of what is out there.
Your second option would be to look for used vintage receivers in good condition. Search your thrift stores, pawn shops, consignment shops, garage sales, craigslist posts, etc.
Give us some specs on the speakers. How many inputs do you want on the amp?
I'm a fan of the new digital amps (aka T-Amps, because they are considered class T) for inexpensive < 100WPC amps. Many are sold on Amazon.
Here is a 20WPC that looks nice: http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348156639&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=t-amp
Here is a 40WPC: http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PCA2-80-Watt-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B001P2VV50/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348156639&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=t-amp
And here is a 50WPC that looks like it's got a little better build quality: http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-DTA-100a-Class-T-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B004JK8BDK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348156639&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=t-amp
I was in a similar predicament and fairly confused by what was needed and the terminology, so if you want input from someone who was coming at this as a novice, here you go. You basically need something to power the speakers and something to provide the audio signal. Those can be combined in a single device (like a big receiver) or separate (like an amp for power and a Chromecast audio for audio signal, which is what I wound up doing). I was just try to get two outdoor speakers to sync up with an indoor sound bar, so I was able to power the outdoor speakers with this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P2VV50/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and then use two Chromecast audio for the syncing. It got me Sonos like functionality for under $100 all in and is pretty small footprint. I didn't want a big receiver sitting where the gear would need to go.
Your situation is complicated by having 6 speakers. Do the wires for all of them terminate in the same place? If so, you might just need to go with a full receiver. I looked into small form factor receivers, and they're out there but still pretty big and run around $500.
Would I be better off with a really basic receiver? I was hoping to get something that would have an aux input and bass/treble controls but all I have found was this: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P2VV50/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER but it doesn't provide enough power and the reviews say its description isn't accurate. I really need something to provide power (50-100w), have an aux/USB input, and basic volume/bass/treb controls.
Based on what the appliance store guy suggested, I've been looking at something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-MA1240a-Multi-Zone-Amplifier/dp/B003DKVZHQ/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_5?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=9XC1MDZ5BRVJ73X7BVNM
It has 12 inputs (6 stereo) and you can plug your smart input of choice into each for zone control. I can use the $15 echo input for each room. So that's 545 + 6*15 = $635 for the whole setup.
Those receivers list a "8 Ch Ext Input" feature.
>8 additional input jacks for discrete multi-channel input. Front (Left, Center, Right), Rear (Surround Left & Right, Surround Back Left & Right) and Subwoofer
That means you can essentially bypass the built in surround sound decoding and feed whatever you want into all the surround channels. You can use this to turn those surround channels into separate zones with "surround L&R" and "surround back L&R" having their own inputs and being fed into their own rooms.
I am not exactly sure what they intend this feature to be used for as I have not seen this on a home theater receiver before, but it seems to let you use it as a simple 8-channel amplifier instead of a home theater receiver. This is pretty much what you want out of it, and I would assume that is how the previous owner was using them.
As a mentioned before, you can also get 12-channel amplifiers for this exact purpose, but what you have already should work fine. The one thing that your receivers might be missing is a signal sense auto off/on. This means you would have to manually turn the whole system on and off, or just leave it on all the time.
I would get a Dayton MA1240a multichannel amp and some Chromecast Audios. Personally, I prefer the Chromecast over Sonos because its more natively integrated into other applications rather than having its own app, and its quite a bit cheaper. I have this setup in several homes and it works great. You may want to look at using the ethernet adapter if you are going to group them together. They need a good network connection to be reliable.
Here's the problem that I see. You can do this with one amplifier and one Sonos connect, but then you have one source of music. You can play it in ALL of the rooms at once, and control the volume in all rooms at once.
As was said, you can use 8 Sonos connects, and 8 separate amplifiers, but that's going to cost you $2800 just for the connects. For each of these you want to wire together in zones (maybe kitchen and dining room together), you can knock off a Sonos and an amp.
You could use a couple amplifiers and some sort of audio switcher to pick what input goes where, along with a couple Sonos connects, but you would likely have to go to the closet to set things up before hand, and to make any changes. I could see this as 4 amps with 2 zones each, and 4 Sonos connects. You would need some splitters from the Sonos to each amp. Then, before your party, you could set all amps to CD (Sonos 1) so they all play the same thing, or set one to CD and one to DVD (Sonos 2) so you could have two separate things playing.
Something like this might work the best, but I think you'd only have two inputs, and have to flip switches on the back to pick which input goes to which output.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DKVZHQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687682&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B00WFIIRNW&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=1P3KJ59R12NSRQR83CER
Thank you for the excellent info.
> ceiling speakers or bookshelf speakers?
Likely a combination of ceiling/bookshelf/tower speakers, depending on the room. No video is necessary; this is strictly an audio system, so it looks to me like a multi-channel amp is what I'm looking for.
> you can skip the amp altogether if you want to get active/powered speakers
I looked at this, and have looked at Sonos, but as I understand it, with these solutions, I'll have to either provide AC power to each individual speaker, or use a powered amplifier to power them. Plugging each speaker into a wall power outlet is not feasible, and since I have to purchase a powered amplifier anyway, and running speaker wire is not a problem for me, I'm not sure what I'd gain with a Sonos system over the Chromecast Audio. Any thoughts on this?
Do you have any personal recommendations for powered 6 channel amps?
EDIT: Right now, this seems to be the best option that I can find for a multi-channel amp. I'm sure there are other, less expensive (perhaps), more appropriate options, but I'm having a hard time finding them: Dayton Audio MA1240A
So this should work?
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Home-HiFi-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B0071HZ5LE/ref=sr_1_119?keywords=2+channel+amp&qid=1563181717&refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A1267488011&rnid=1267487011&s=electronics&sr=1-119
Discovered these things. Basically what I am after. Just need to find out which ones are quality and find one with for speaker inputs.
Pyle 90W Class T Hi-Fi Stereo Amplifier with Adapter PFA300 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0071HZ5LE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YrPmDbC1MYF4N
Oops - The amp (for others) is a Pyle PFA300 90-Watt Class T Hi-Fi Stereo Amplifier with Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071HZ5LE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1WpjzbPN7X7CE
For the chromecast, they have the ability to "group" speakers. Then you just cast to the group and it plays the same media synced perfectly across:
https://support.google.com/chromecast/answer/6328691?hl=en
Here are links to the products I mentioned above - expect for the AT-LP120 as I'm sure everyone here knows that one.
Pyle PFA300: http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PFA300-90-Watt-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B0071HZ5LE
Micca MB42: http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A
This is what I'm looking at now to work with the large dayton transducer, will it work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071HZ5LE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GIiPDb5E81BER
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PHSP5-8-Inch-Outdoor-Speaker/dp/B002UL0WH8
http://www.amazon.com/Uniden-PRO520XL-40-Channel-CB-Radio/dp/B00004VXNI
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PFA300-90-Watt-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B0071HZ5LE
I took the plunge today and got a set of Sony SS-H3800Ns for $14 dollars. Wooden cabinet with plastic face and 3 drivers, a 5", a 2", and a 1". There were a few others there but they were over 50 years old so I didn't bite.
Now I need an amp to power them. They have rated impedance 6 ohms, a maximum power input of 100 watts, and an "L" symbol. The only amp in the store was way too big thanks to the built in turntable and 8 track switcher.
I know 100 watts is unbearably loud but I think that having a high wattage amp would be convenient for listening with headphones; I keep the software volume at ~5 for headphone listening and it'd be nice not to have to mess with this value when I switch to speakers.
tl;dr part 2:
Thanks.
*edit: added tl;dr
>Once connected, will changing the volume on the TV affect the output volume?
Depends on the TV. Plug something into your headphone or RCA output and see. Also, it's possible different inputs respond differently (this is looking at the perspective of the manufacturer, some outputs are more likely to need volume control at the TV level). I've had TVs auto mute themselves when anything goes into an audio output port and not adjust using the volume controls from the TV, and I've had some that don't (many a time have I gotten up to turn down the volume on a promedia 2.1 set a few years back). Most likely, TV controls will still work.
>Will the speakers and amp be loud enough for a 15x15 room for TV watching at a reasonable volume?
20wpc for a 15x15 room is kind of pushing it, but based on my desktop setup (using a 25wpc amp) it should be okay, but I'd consider a slightly higher amperage if possible. Never heard of Pyle before, but this amp might be worth looking into. You'd get 45WPC which should be sufficient.
>I know reasonable is all relative, but the TV is not blasted.
Do the speakers/amp come with ample speaker wire or will I need to buy RCA jacks to connect the amp through the TV?
You'll probably have to buy both yourself. I've never had an amp or speakers come with cables (never bought new speakers though that required an amp)
A basic audio amp and speaker selector combined with a Chromecast audio would work perfectly.
Unfortunately I'm not good with hardware.
But I think like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007JV6F34/
With this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0071HZ5LE/
So you think the $50 amp would be sufficient in running these?
Something like this https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0071HZ5LE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503337925&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=class+t+amplifier&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41wPPsU9rvL&amp;ref=plSrch
The Onkyo A-9150 is a good little amp. It has headphone and subwoofer outs, line- and pre-outs, along with plenty of room to grow. It will function as a preamp should you decide to add a tube amp later. I have one and I adore it.
Edit: Corrected link.
Looking to replace my 4 channel integrated amp used for music and home theater.
My Rotel RA971 is on its last legs, though it performs wonderfully otherwise. I use the two extra channels to power two rear speakers for "surround sound". With that in mind, would it be better to get a receiver, which is meant for surround sound? Does a receiver do surround sound better than a 4 channel amp?
These are the two I'm comparing right now, suggestions are welcome:
http://www.amazon.com/Marantz-NR1504-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B00BLZDKX2
http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK
Sorry. I mean that there is an Onkyo that is made with upgrading in mind but the Yamaha is supposed to have better sound.
If you scroll down the page you will see that they make a power amp that is intended to go with the integrated: https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK
I don't want this Onkyo but it gave me the idea that if I get the Yamaha it would be nice to be able to upgrade with a separate amp down the road.
What was the model of your old turntable? It may have a built in phono line already.
I also think recommendations also depend on your location due to shipping.
Most would say with that budget, it would be better to buy a standalone phono and spend the rest on a receiver/amplifier. I'm not well versed enough with amplifiers to give a good suggestion.
Recently, there was this Yamaha stereo integrated amp model on the front page with praise from this post, using a Pro-Ject table and the Yamaha via phono. Perhaps you can inquire from there about the model.
I use an Onkyo A-9050 integrated stereo amp with a Cambridge Azir 655p phono stage. Though from various reviews online, the Schiit Mani is a better deal price wise. The one issue is that it is made in the US so I don't know if they ship internationally.
I'm looking to build a semi-affordable home audio system this year. I'm gonna start buying components with my tax money, so it's time to seek some quick suggestions. I am pretty much set on the turntable and receiver. And I have narrowed my speaker options down to 3 final contenders. Basically I need help deciding which of these 3 speaker setups will sound the best for my personal taste (music only, no movies. Mostly stoner rock, doom, classic rock, hard rock, blues, reggae, funk... you know, mostly bass heavy rock).
The turntable I chose is the U-Turn Orbit Custom with acrylic platter and Ortofon 2M Red cartridge.
The receiver I chose to go with this turntable is the Onkyo A-9050. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009JBZFVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RsWMybSP4ZYZR
Now onto the speakers. My budget is $500 but I can go over a little bit. This setup will be in my living room which is smallish to regular in size. Also, I have hardwood floors if that matters. Sooooo... Which of these 3 setups will sound best with this turntable/receiver???
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone!
My opinion when it comes to B&O gear is that it is all looks and does not offer quality sound. In your shoes I would consider selling the speakers and buying some proper stand mounters like Wharfedale Diamond 10.1 or better.
That said, I also think you are thinking about this in a slightly convoluted way. I would be looking for a cheap integrated amp with a phono stage built in. Something like the Onkyo A-9050 would suit you well for just over the upper end of your budget. It also has a much bigger knob than the Schiit Mani and so would be easier to adjust the volume on. It also has a DAC so you can hook up your computer if you ever decide to, optical input if you ever want to add a TV, etc.
Just some things for you to consider.
Throw in my flat screen TV as an audio input and I would need a digital optical input?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009JBZFVK/ref=psdc_537344_t1_B00LIQ3NM2
I really like this one, built in high quality DAC too: http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK
Well, if you are hearing some noise from the output then a DAC may be worthwhile depending on the amount of noise. The differences between DACs are quite small, like -60 dB or more unless you are comparing a toy DAC to something super high end. What that means is that yes, there is a measurable difference but the difference isn't audible. Don't trust what people say: the Placebo Effect is very strong in audio circles.
The human brain is not a reliable arbitrator of sound quality when it comes to tiny differences like you hear between DACs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYTlN6wjcvQ
Your mobo DAC is of adequate quality overall, but the fact that you hear some noise means that the signal is being degraded after it is converted to analog. Given that, you might benefit from an outboard DAC.
Given that you also need an amp and want to use both headphones and speakers, why not pick up one of these sweet new Onkyo amps?
It includes a high quality DAC and there won't be any added noise after the conversion to analog like on your PC. Just run optical cable from your PC to it and boom -- noise free sound from the PC. It has tons of inputs, even including a phono input if you want to go even more audiophile and start rocking vinyl. It also has a sub-woofer preamp out which is super handy for 2.1. Depending on how efficient your speakers are, the 75WPC on offer should get plenty loud to rock a party.
Of course, this amp eats up a good chunk of your budget, but it will get you in a great place as far as DAC and Amp. I'd get this and then your speakers of choice. Live without a sub for a while and save your pennies for the sub once you can afford it.
Here's my other best piece of advice: buy used. It's just past the holidays and people are unloading old gear like crazy on craigslist. You can probably find speakers/headphones/amp that would normally be beyond your budget for sale super cheap. Most audio gear is quite reliable (especially the higher end stuff) and I've always found used to be a MUCH better option in terms of price to performance than buying new.
Good luck and have fun. Feel free to ask anything else. I'm sure other folks will have advice for you too -- these are just my $.02
Onkyo A-9050
I have an Onkyo A-9050 (https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK). Ever since I set up my Epos Epic 2s it didn't seem right, like the speakers were just not being brought to life fully. Recently I redid the wiring, change impedance setting to 4 ohm, put sand in my stands, and turned on "phase matching bass". The last thing in particular seemed to bring the speakers to life, the bass exploded and everything sounded more vibrant.
Come to find out I had connected the speakers backwards. Switched the wiring for L and R. Now, phase matching bass doesn't have the same effect. It just ups the bass a little bit, but doesn't have the same transformative effect, and the bass is not as loud as before. I then switched to bi-wiring, which did not help.
Everything was perfect before except for L and R being backwards. Would that have caused the "phase matching bass" mode to behave in a different way??? This makes no sense.
Just to be sure, the term receiver has been badly abused in some of the comments -- suggesting that the term receiver implies home theater equipment. However there are stereo receivers too. A stereo receiver is a stereo amplifier with an built in radio tuner.
Low cost AV Receivers (home theater stuff) often have optical digital inputs.
It is harder to find optical digital inputs on stereo receivers and integrated amplifiers -- and they tend to be more expensive.
However the Onkyo TX-8050 is available for about $240 right now:
http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-8050-Network-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B004UR486G
Onkyo has an integrate stereo amp with a DAC
http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK
I have an HK 3490 with an optical input. The HK 3490's price fluctuates wildly. It ranges from $300 - $450 from month to month.
I can't say that the built in DACs in any of those units is better than the DAC in the Macbook. You might be better off using the analog output and choosing from a wider selection of Amps/Receivers. But a built in DAC is nice if you should get something like an Apple TV which does not have an analog output.
Trying to find a decent amp for my B&W CM 4 speakers. So far this is the best looking one I've found in terms of price / performance.
Amazon Link
Is there a reason I shouldn't buy it and get something more expensive?
Budget: 300-600$
Requirements- Has volume control (integrated amp?), headphone output, RCA input
http://www.chanemusiccinema.com/chane-loudspeakers/A1rx-c
These speakers are great for the price
http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426927052&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=bic+subwoofer
I hear this sub is great for the price.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009JBZFVK?psc=1
Sweet little integrated. Lots of inputs and a sub output. Should work great with all this.
You don't need a Sonos (or Apple gear for that matter), there are much cheaper DIY solutions. A Raspberry Pi + a decent DAC (like HiFiBerry) + VolumeIO software gets you functionality on a par with Sonos for around $100 or so.
You could save a little more money by picking a cheaper integrated amp. The Yamaha A-S500 goes for $400. Amazon has had the Onkyo A-9050 for as little as $300.
You don't necessarily need floorstanders, 2.1 systems comprised of good bookshelves and big bad subwoofers can be sonically more impressive than floorstanders (and cheaper to boot). An $800 sub with $500 bookshelves is very frequently going to be a better choice than whatever $1,300/pair floorstanders you can find.
If you are intent on getting a relatively low-wattage amp (like some of that entry level NAD stuff), I would second the idea of the guy that suggested Klipsch. Their stuff is a good value and is much more efficient than most speakers.
Good luck.
One possibility that has respectable sound on a budget and gives you future flexibility is this ART: http://www.amazon.com/ART-USB-Phono-Plus/dp/B000BBGCCI/ref=pd_cp_MI_1
I bought one of these at the same time as the ART, but it didn't mesh well with my system at the time, so I returned it. It is however, tube driven and has a more robust headphone section than the ART: http://www.amazon.com/Bellari-VP130-Preamplifier-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B002TD4GME/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407099671&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=headphone+phono+preamp
Or something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Little-Dot-MKII-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QMAI2/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407099671&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=headphone+phono+preamp#productDetails
Thank you for the help. I actually need a little more help i looked a little deeper and i found two other actual tube amps and i believe they are a much better choice, but then which one.
Litte dot MKII: http://www.amazon.com/Little-Dot-MKII-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QMAI2/ref=pd_cp_MI_2
HIFIMAN - EF-2A: http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMAN-EF2A-HIFIMAN-EF-2A-HEADPHONE/dp/B004357WL8/ref=pd_cp_MI_3
I got them at a nice price :D my budget isn't really limited, I just don't want to spend my money disproportionately.
I cannot find any schiit hardware within EU, I'm from Denmark so I use danish sites, toman.de or amazon.de, amazon.de have the FiiO stuff and the Creative Soundblaster and the little dot mk II but I cannot find the schiit.
I've been listening with headphones since I've gotten my turntable and I decided I'd like to get some speakers for it as well. I've got a Fluance turntable as well as a Little Dot Mk2 headphone amp. I've been considering getting these speakers. I don't really know what I'm doing, but I'm assuming I'm going to need another amp for the speakers? Any suggestions on a mid priced amp, or will the Mk2 work for speakers as well? Will those speakers work fine with my turntable? Any help is appreciated!
I'm buying the Little Dot MKII amplifier to use with my Sennheiser HD 598s. I'm looking to get these Pioneer SP-BS22 speakers. Will these work well together? This will be my first real hi-fi system so I just want to be sure of everything.
I went with Massdrop's Cavalli CTH Amp/Dac tube amp...upgrade with a 1964 Seimens tube from local supplier. Sweet sound...sweet. Otherwise I would look at this:
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https://www.amazon.com/Little-Dot-MKII-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QMAI2
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Your post has been reported for violating Rule 1 of this subreddit and I'll have to remove it.
> Rule 1: All requests that solicit product opinion or asks for purchase advice must be posted in our purchase sticky.
You are very welcome to repost your question in the stickied daily purchase advice thread.
Please make use of this format when you submit a request
____
Why don't you get a tube amp for a different experience? A Little Dot MkII would pair nicely with the HD6XX (not with the HD598 though)
those look like tube amps but, that looks like too many too be actual [tube amps] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Little-Dot-MKII-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QMAI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502791286&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tube+amp)
Edit: [or maybe not] (http://www.specimenproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/MG_0784-LB.jpg)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2QMAI2
Looking for first tube setup to add on 2.1 with headphones. I already have a Onkyo TX-NR626 (will be using zone 2 as line out for tube preamp). Currently have some Sony MDRV6 Studio Monitor Headphones and B&O Beovox s45-2 speakers (currently using upstairs) I can use with the 2.1 setup if needed.
Everything will have to be able to fit under the projection screen. So I have about 2 feet from the floor to the bottom of the screen. Will be a 60/40 split between music (jazz, folk, blues) and movies (yes only in 2.1). Will be watching/listening from about 15' away.
Looking to spend around $2000 for a Tube preamp with headphone jack, tube stereo amp, powered front facing sub, and probably speakers (currently listen to the B&Os upstairs). Any left over money will be going to upgrading headphones, adding a turntable and acquiring a record collection again.
What about http://www.amazon.com/Little-Dot-MKII-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QMAI2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426706908&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=tube+preamp for a Pre amp with headphones.
http://www.amazon.com/NXG-Technology-NX-BAS-500-500-watt-Subwoofer/dp/B008FSTU4G/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426707035&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=powered+subwoofer+500w for a powered sub
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Douk-audio-stereo-HIFI-EL34-Single-ended-Class-A-tube-amplifier-rectifier-AMP-/281312152025?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item417f82c9d9 for stereo amp? I know there have to be better options. And then what should I do about speakers?
Gaming headphones have a different composition and purpose than studio headphones. I don’t think you’ll need a different amp for the Astros.
I had this Topping VX-1 (Amazon) which powered my desktop speakers, and was also a DAC and amp for my headphones (ATH m50). You could toggle the output signal to speakers, headphones, or both. It was a decent, little device. Not the best quality, and if I’d spent any more on headphones I would be using a nicer device. But it just died on me after three years. Might suggest you look for a basic audio/sound switcher instead.
Alright peeps...Hopefully I can get some help here. I currently use an old Lepai LP-2020A+ amp for my Micca speakers...It seems to be acting up as of late, the left speaker cuts out a lot and I have to move it around to get it work again.
On the other end, I use the small FiiO e6 for my headphones. To make things short...I want to combine these two into one device, if possible.
I saw this product:
https://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-VX1-Tripath-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B00H6XDE4S/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469052909&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=Topping+amp
Which seems to be what I'm looking for...Unless I'm missing something? This would indeed let me run my speakers, then when I want, plug in my headphones on the front...Correct?
Thanks for any help provided!
Topping makes one, but will need to be switched manually.
If you don't need a great deal of power, there's the Topping VX1. It also has a decent DAC via USB input, and goes for (as of current) under $82. One nice feature is you can switch outputs without unplugging your headphones (or use both simultaneously).
Downsides: The analog volume knob can make noise when you change the volume (true of most inexpensive amps), and the bright blue LEDs can dazzle in low-light conditions. While it doesn't offer a large amount of power, it's plenty for my needs (plenty loud for near-field use in a medium-sized room).
Getting a new desktop setup, budget is $300-$350, looking at combining the following:
Anyone have feedback or experience with either of these? :)
Get a pair of Micca MB42X
Powered with this
And get this as your source http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter/dp/B00IQBSW28
Only reason I recommend that amp is because the dac is built in and your using bluetooth as the source. Otherwise I would get a smsl SA50, with a behringer dac, but you would have bluetooth with that
I am looking for the same kind of solution in the same budget with an additional requirement: the ability to switch between speakers and headphones with a physical switch.
Here is a thread at ASR with some relevant options: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/dac-with-physical-output-selection-switch.6336/
Two solutions seem to stand out:
As most people here I tend to prefer passive speakers.
I might go for the VX1 unless I can find an alternative with a more modern USB implementation.
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You could try something like a switch. 3.5m M to M cable to the input spot, headphone on A, 3.5m to RCA y adapter from B to your speaker amp. There are some cheap ones, but almost all of them (including this one) have at least a couple bad reviews saying you add noticeable noise. Doesn't control volume, so this gets a little awkward (control volume of headphones in Windows, but control volume of speakers on the amp). This also doesn't handle the mic, so that would still have to plug into the back.
Something like this would increase quality and make volume control easier. It's a separate DAC/headphone amp, along with a preamp that would go out to your speaker amp (again using a 3.5mm to RCA y adapter). Connecting the mic separately to the back of the computer would still be awkward. As you mention, there are separate AMPs that would have similar functionality, but most aren't necessarily cheaper than this.
There are also combo DAC / headphone / speaker amps. Something like this. Not any cheaper, though, and still doesn't have a spot for your mic. Benefit here is only needing one device for both headphone and speaker.
Creative makes a complete solution, but it's crazy expensive. I would honestly buy a USB desktop microphone rather than spend this much.
http://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-VX1-Tripath-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B00H6XDE4S
Is the only thing close to your budget.
Topping makes a 25 watt version of an integrated DAC/t amp:
TOPPING VX1 2×25W T-AMP Tripath Stereo Hi-Fi Power Subwoofer Amplifier USB DAC US Digital Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H6XDE4S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WauFub0MRR9EC
I've been thinking of pulling the trigger on it for a bit.
Topping VX1 or an AVR or a stereo receiver. I think SMSL might make one that has both a headphone port and speaker outputs as well. Q5?
TOPPING VX1 2×25W T-AMP Tripath Stereo Hi-Fi Power Subwoofer Amplifier USB DAC US Digital Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H6XDE4S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ntBTub0411GRE for example. .it has an amp in it..
[Reposting from a few days ago to get more opinions]
Budget: $200-300 USD.
Source: Two computers, both with USB or optical capability.
Desired product: DAC/Headphone Amp w/optional speaker amp
Currently I have a desktop and a laptop that I switch between. I have a pair of passive Paradigm Atom V.7's and some 595-modded Sennheiser HD555's. I'm planning on adding a subwoofer in the near future.
I'm on a quest to find a desktop audio solution that will do all of the following:
I've used the Topping VX1 which is pretty great as far as the above features go, and it actually got me used to having a headphone toggle. I work remotely and so being able to literally switch from listening to music on the speakers to putting my headphones on for meetings is really lovely.
I sent back the VX1 because the USB DAC was acting funny with one of my computers. Also because adding a subwoofer to my system would require splitting the headphone output and running it in combo speaker/headphone jack mode. Which would work, but then you'd get some extra bass when listening via headphones.
I've also demoed the Topping TP41 which is fine but suffers from a noisy left channel and more noise in general. It also doesn't solve any of the aforementioned issues.
I really really like the Teac A-H01 but it doesn't have a headphone toggle switch, just an auto-mute on plug-in.
So far I've found the Audinst MX2 (currently on eBay for ~$230) which covers pretty much all my bases. I'd just have to add a speaker amp and route the line output through the subwoofer first.
There's also the Audio Gd NFB.11.32 but at $350 I'd rather get the Audinst.
I'm also not opposed to going the component route. Part of me is considering a mostly Schiit stack with a DAC -> Sys Switch -> Headphone Amp or Speaker Amp. The downside there is cost.
Anyway, I'd love to hear suggestions or input. Thanks!
I did not pay that - in fact paid $99 - I have no idea why it is that expensive now. I didn't even check price, sorry.
But any of the topping dual amp dacs will work
Edit: this one
Yeah but you could also get this Topping VX1 and just connect your speakers right to it. I have one for my home office and one for my, uh, office office to use regular bookshelf speakers for desk speakers. Great little guy. If you want to use an external amp you're out of luck unless it has high level input.
Might help if you had some more details.
What is your primary use? (Movies, Music, etc.)
Are you sure you need a sub?
What is your source of audio? (PC, Turntable, Blu-Ray, etc.)
Without knowing any of those things, I would recommend getting either an SMSL SA50 or a Dayton Audio DTA-120
I have the SMSL SA50 that I use for a pair of Klipsch KB-15's that I use for a bedroom set up and it is more than enough for me. The Klipsch Speakers you have have a sensitivity of 94dB, meaning you'll probably never even reach halfway on the volume knob of those amps.
Last question, I promise :D. Will I be kicking myself later on a cheaper amp? Would something like a Dayton DTa120 be noticeably better? I know the speakers are 80 Watts and I won't be playing that loud since my room is pretty small.
> In response to your last comment, is there a better (modestly priced) headphone amp that you can vouch for? I have no preference at this point, really.
I'm not really a tube guy (or a turntable guy for that matter), but it seems to me that the "warmer sound" of tubes isn't a benefit, it's an excuse for poor performance - though I'm sure someone will come on and "correct" me/call me a nazi for saying this.
I don't know a lot of what's out there for the same $60ish. Do you ever intend to add speakers? if you do, then I'd probably get something like this to give you some flexibility in the future.
Hello, /u/ZeosPantera I noticed that the Dayton Audio DTA-120 is no longer in your recommended list. IIRC you had it previously. I quite like mine, just looking for your thoughts regarding it as a headphone amp. specifically how well it will drive Beyerdynamic DT990 250ohm pro. My setup is PC->UCA202->DTA-120->DT990pro250 / B562
Get the Sonos connect and for amps grab something like Dayton DTA-120 for $99/per zone you want to use. Just use a splitter to split the output from the Connect.
Thanks for all the great info!
Any thoughts on the SMSL Mini 5 for a combined power and headphone amp? http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Digital-Amplifier-Built-Headphone-Adapter/dp/B00LRK9VRU
I like having just one box on my desk that I can control volume from and plug my headphones into, but all the others I've seen with that were only 25WPC. This one gives that advantage, plus the power of the SA50. Would be great if it had an integrated DAC too, but I have yet to find a 50+WPC amp with DAC and headphone jack. But for now I can just run it off the sound card, and in the future throw in a separate DAC.
Edit: Alternatively there's the truly awesome-looking Dayton DTA-120: http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-120-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00HFG3FYA/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
> https://smile.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-120-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00HFG3FYA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492120518&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Dayton+Audio+DTA-120
These hit a good sweet spot. Do you think the Dayton is worth the extra $25 over the other?
Hi, I'm in the process of purchasing my first real audio setup (for my computer) and could use some advice. I have the following:
Speakers - Audioengine P4 Passive Speakers
Amplifier - Dayton Audio DTA-120
Subwoofer - Polk Audio PSW10 Powered Subwoofer
Now, I need to get a DAC as I don't really want to use the sound card in my computer for obvious reasons, but I'm not sure how the setup of this system is going to work with the powered subwoofer. The amplifier has two channels (unless I'm horribly mistaken)- those will be taken up by the speakers. However, I'm confused as to how I get the subwoofer connected properly with the speakers. All of the (relevant, I think) setup configurations in the PSW10 manual have a receiver with a sub out connection, which I don't have.
The subwoofer has L/R inputs as well as speaker-level inputs, but I don't really have any idea what I'm doing and I don't want to buy a DAC that isn't going to work with what I have... I feel like the answer might be obvious when staring at the inputs/outputs of each component, but I don't know enough about how everything in the system will interact to know for sure whether things are still going to sound like they should given a particular configuration.
Can I just split the signal from the DAC, send one cable into the powered subwoofer (either the L or R line input on the PSW10 works as mono, not sure which), and the other cable into the amplifier->the speakers? From what I understand that would leave me unable to control the volume/crossover frequency of the sub- in that case I'd have to use the speaker-level inputs instead, but I honestly have no clue how those work at all, or how they'd even connect to the P4s... I don't really know what my options are here, so any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
edit: I think I have figured it out. If I connect the sub to the amp via the speaker-level inputs, I can connect to the speakers through the speaker-level outputs on the sub and the sub will act as an external crossover. In retrospect, this should have been really obvious to me. Oh well.
Two speakers and an amplifier
my recommendation is these speakers and this amplifier.
i like this combo better than the "proposed systems" in the thread header because the speakers are better and play lower than the micca, and the whole setup is more flexible than the JBL. you could hook your computer up to the amp via a 3.5mm to 3.5mm trs cable to the front port and use the back ports for a bluetooth dongle like this to stream from a phone. the dta has a pretty good headphone amp as well if you get some nice headphones.
Datyon:
http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-120-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00HFG3FYA
If you do some googling T-amp, gainclone, and chipamp will bring up lots of reading. They're all more or less similar ideas -- and plenty of DIY options as well.
Onkyo a 9010. Or if you want something really small and out of the way http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HFG3FYA/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile
> Sennheiser PCX 550
Thanks! I have even considered... this since I have speakers also...
Hi there Im new to the whole audiophile scene and I have to say I LOVE IT! I just got my first pair of cans the Phillips shp 9500S and Ive got to say even though there a pair of budget cans they're so much better than anything ive listen to! I love to sound stage the separation in the instruments they present and the mids only the lows are what seem kinda recessed for my linking hence is why i opened this post. Im currently on the fence with a pair of Berdynamics DT990 PRO 250 OHMS
https://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-DT-990-Pro-250-Professional-Acoustically-Headphones/dp/B0011UB9CQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492977756&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=beyerdynamics+dt990
Ive seen some reviews on youtube and on RTINGS.com and it seems like they have good bass and really high highs but some say they're too high :( . I listen to music off my laptop using Spotify Premium or TIDAL HiFi and I also use them to play on console. I dont have any dacs or amps yet because im still deciding if i should go with a DAC and AMP combo(MODI 2 UBER and MAGNI 2 UBER) from SCHIIT or get the gamer oriented Soundblaster x7. Anythoughts on which would be the best solution for using on consoles and PC ?
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-X7-High-Resolution-Headphone-Connectivity/dp/B00Q3XLGLU/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492977968&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=sound+blaster+x7
http://schiit.com/products/modi-2
Please help! I have both PS4 and xbox one S as well as a pair of Logitech z506 speakers that i would connect to the dac/amps either through RCA or RCA center/sub/rear on the soundblaster.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-X7-High-Resolution-Headphone-Connectivity/dp/B00Q3XLGLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487156935&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sound+blaster+x7
I was looking into purchasing an DAC/Amp combo for my K7XX headphones when I stumbled upon this sale on Amazon for the Creative Soundblaster x7. I was wondering if anyone here currently uses the DAC/Amp or has used it in the past, and how their experiance was with it. Does it work good as a headphones Amp?
I had this issue previously and; I play Xbox on my secondary monitor and watch Netflix on my main monitor thru PC, or i also play WoW casually, or whatever. but same deal, Xbox and PC both playing sound at same time into my headphones. I found a really cheap solution if you can add a card to your computer, or a slightly more expensive option if you can't do that, or want an all in one solution.
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you have to buy commercial/prosumer audio mixer equipment to do this, or so I thought. you need multiple inputs, and lots of DACs have that, but none can mix signals. I finally found the Sound Blaster Recon 3D PCIe card, and its replacement the Sound Blaster Z PCIe cards.
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They are old and starting to dwindle in supply, but I found THIS ONE for ~30$. Its a sound card you add to your computer and it replaces the built in sound. This one is special because it has an optical INPUT, which is not done in any other product that i have found. The software is able to mix the Optical Input sound with the native PC sound, and push it to the speakers/headphone connection OOORRRR.... right back through the optical OUTPUT!
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So here is my setup. Xbox optical out -> Recon3D Optical In. Sound mixes with PC, then combined sound Optical Out -> DAC of choice. I also put an optical splitter after the PC out, one cable goes to my SMSL Q5 for speakers, and the other goes to my DAC X6 for headphones.
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Don't want to deal with buying used PC stuff on ebay and installing to your computer? Don't have an open expansion slot? Don't have a DAC/AMP to use after? then buy THIS!
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The Sound Blaster X7. its a DAC, Speaker Amp, Headphone Amp, all in one. It has optical in, Analog in, and USB in. It also has bluetooth and USB Host for connecting mobile devices. and it can mix them all at the same time and output together to passive or active speakers, headphones, or back out through optical to an AV receiver.
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EDIT: HERE is the manual for the Sound Blaster X7 if you want to look at it in more detail before considering buying. I don't have one myself because the Recon3D is working fine, but i strongly considered it.
Been looking at the Teac AI-101DA integrated amp as a desktop media/audio hub (Consoles, PC, Music, etc). The multi-input selector with the inclusion of Bluetooth functionality is the feature that's hooking me in. Currently I'm just unsure whether or not to jump the gun on a purchase, the only feedback I've seen is 2 Amazon reviews, and I'm still wondering if there are any other alternative products that have similar functionality to compare. Anyone have suggestions or advice to dish out?
I'm looking for the perfect solution to my PC audio needs: a USB DAC+amp (stereo) with both subwoofer and headphone outputs. I have a powered sub with a coaxial input and no crossover. I have unpowered speakers.
Basically I want a cheaper Teac Al-101DA, or if the SMSL Q5 Pro had a headphone out. Less than $200 would be great, any thoughts? I'm open to more than one piece as long as it still fits the budget.
I'm considering buying a few things that are up on Massdrop right now.
The Teac AI-101DA-B would be a nice USB DAC because it has the main features I want. Multiple inputs, speaker and subwoofer support, and front headphone support.
Is this a good DAC/Amp combo?
I would be interested in pairing it with a pair of Beyerdynamic DT990 600 Ohm black edition on mass drop now or possibly the AKG K7XX's on "sale" for $200.
Is this a good USB DAC, Amp, and headphone setup for ~$400-$450 dollars?
Is there a better USB DAC and Amp pair that has all the features for about the same price?
Thanks for any advice.
Yeah but finding one with a headphone jack and passive speaker drivers is the hard part lol. https://smile.amazon.com/Teac-AI-101DA-B-Integrated-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00UGYFWQC?sa-no-redirect=1 this has what I want but it's a little out of my range, and at $300 I just don't know if I should just jump up to $400-500 and get something that'll last me a lifetime.
If you want portability, the the Cyrus Soundkey or Audioquest Dragonfly red are your options. I use the Soundkey, and it's brilliant. The soundstage and clarity is vastly improved. Then again my daily drivers are the Audio-Technica ATH M40X. For a DAC + amp, then the Teac AI-101DA. It's a bit pricy, but however it's a good DAC amp. I don't have it, but I have heard mostly positive reviews on it, also Zeos, our legend, has reviewed it himself. If you are on a tight budget, well the FiiO - E10K Olympus, has got you covered. It's a really good amp+DAC for the money. A lot of positive reviews. If you are gaming, the Senhiser GSX 1000 is there. What I she said in here are the best in each section.
Links:
Cyrus Soundkey: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B073RFVHVY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520720112&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=cyrus+soundkey
Audioquest Dragonfly red: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DFMV4NQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520720178&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=cyrus+soundkey&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41JaKxrUrfL&amp;ref=plSrch
Senhiser GSX 1000: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LDTP484/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520720216&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=gsx+100&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41ermQbCqAL&amp;ref=plSrch
Teac AI-101DA: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UGYFWQC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520720282&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=teac+ai-101da&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41dClv7EX-L&amp;ref=plSrch
FiiO E10K Olympus: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LP3AMC2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520720327&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=fiio+e10k&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Taa5DTsKL&amp;ref=plSrch
By the way. If you want, buy a fucking pair of Audio-Technica ATH M40X: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HVLUR54/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520720404&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=audio+technica&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41gFqXe5oBL&amp;ref=plSrch
Zeos found the M40X'S brilliant.
I hope I helped you out, if you have any queries, reply to this comment. Good luck in finding what you want.
Although $15 more, consider the powered [Edifier 1280T] (http://www.edifier.com/us/en/speakers/studio-1280t-2.0-powered-bookshelf). These bookshelf sound great for the price point, are housed in a solid wood enclosure, have multiple audio inputs (including the 1/8-inch), remote for input switching and audio control, a 2 year warranty, and arrive with all the cables needed. It's currently the best selling bookshelf speaker on Amazon. Here's a [YouTube review] (https://youtu.be/7JgZIUDmbHo).
If you wish to save more, I also have another CCA connected to an ONEU Mini Amp that I've connected to a pair of used AR tower speakers that I scored buying from Goodwill for $20.
DAC: Syba Sonic USB 24 Bit 96 KHz DAC Digital to Analog Headphone Amplifier 2 Stage EQ Digital / Coaxial Output and RCA Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009WN7QT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l2KvCbKJYFTPQ
AMP: ONEU Mini amplifier Super Bass Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Amp Booster for Car Moto Home with DC 12V 3A Power Supply, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MBUX40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A3KvCb9FGDATV
Speakers: Edifier P12 Passive Bookshelf Speakers - 2-Way Speakers with Built-in Wall-Mount Bracket - Wood Color, Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DM7F15C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p4KvCbDVP9T04
Super budget setup but it sounds fantastic.
How big an amp(and how many) are you looking for?
What's your budget?
What sort of speakers are you trying to drive?
Where will they be located?
And again, what's your budget?
Small
Medium
Large
Any of those three will fit the bill depending mostly on your answers to the above questions.
Here's the corrected OriGain link:
https://smile.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01M0SL7YC/
Another good speaker in the same price range is the Dayton MK402.
You could probably go with something like this and be OK.
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Amplifier-TPA3116D2-Channel-Stereo/dp/B073WY1P4S/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y67PZB1/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018ZBUQU4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6BMKD6/
https://www.amazon.com/TOOGOO-Silver-Digital-Amplifier-TPA3116/dp/B0762CKQFH/
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Amplifier-Professional-Dual-channel-DC8-25V/dp/B01MU2JH4I/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071XQGYRJ/
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Amplifier-Professional-Dual-channel-DC8-25V/dp/B01MU2JH4I/
https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Desktop-Amplifier-Audiophile-Beginners/dp/B0714HZGJF/
+1 to this. Pretty much all onboard motherboard audios are junk because they rarely have a mechanism for isolating electrical noise. Plus, conversion chips suck too. Industry standard D/A conversion chips are AK4440, burbrown, CS8416 & Sabre ES92xx. You will never find them on your motherboard. This does not say you have to spend 2 grand to buy a great DAC. I would say $100-500 is plenty for a DAC, depending on your taste. For beginners, try it out FX audio dac x6. You will need an amp to power passive speakers from this DAC, which does D/A.