(Part 2) Best diagnostic, test & measurement tools according to redditors
We found 1,694 Reddit comments discussing the best diagnostic, test & measurement tools. We ranked the 344 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Get one of these, plug it into your car in the port hidden under your steering wheel, download app called Torque, get error code, google error code, see if it's something you can fix yourself (often it is).
Edit: These only work on Android. You can buy dedicated units (also cheap) or you can buy an iOS version that costs 4x as much. Similarly cheap priced models claim to work on iOS, but I have yet to see anyone actually get one of them to work.
Here's your device, here's your app, here's your how-to.
EDIT - I wanna add: I didn't make that how-to. That's not me. However, it worked for me.
computer diagnostic system is easy these days
even in bluetooth
It cost me around $50-$60 I think. I used this camera and I used this OBD2 adapter. I also needed some small connectors to plug the video wire into the back of the head unit (these things).
I used this thread by /u/brbauer2 as a guide, which was very helpful.
It was kind of difficult, but mostly because I don't really have much experience with the wiring stuff so I went slow to make sure I didn't mess up any splices or anything. I also initially put the wrong wire into the back of the head unit, so I had to take it back apart and use the right wire (the thread I used shows a red wire in the back of the head unit connector, its actually the yellow wire from the video cable that you want) but that only took maybe an additional 30 minutes.
Overall, I'd say go for it if you're interested!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-WiOAb41R8HDW
I think I used the Carista app
This is $15 and less than half the size of OP's item. I bought both, both work the same.
Take a look at this one
Automatic AUT-350C Pro Gold 3G Connected Car Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5egrybRD4G45G
No fees or sim card needed
http://www.amazon.com/Raytek-MT6-Non-contact-MiniTemp-Thermometer/dp/B000O80B5M
No joke. I use it all the time when cooking. It stays in my kitchen. It really opens up your eyes on how uneven the temperature of your cooking surfaces are. SURFACE TEMP ONLY! to temp meat like chicken, use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/CDN-DTQ450X-ProAccurate-Quick-Read-Thermometer/dp/B0021AEAG2
Also: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_0_11?url=search-alias%3Dgarden&field-keywords=chainmail%20scrubber I don't know which one I have, I think the knappmade one, but these are also awesome. Work great for cleaning stainless steel pots and pans also.
Id start with something line this starter set, a 3/8 breaker bar, 1/2 breaker bar, a Decent torque wrench, a plier set, vice grips, channel locks, adjustable wrench, screw driver set, a multimeter, decent scan tool, a jack, a funnell some drain pans from walmart, pb blaster, jack stands and make some wheel chocks. I'm sure I'm missing something pertinent, but remember you can rent some tools at your local parts store for free with a deposit so check to see what they rent before you buy. Also buy the remainder of the tools as you need them, its tough buying a lot of tools at once especially once you develop an affinity for some quality tools. A lot of the youtube guys have videos on what they use they most, but what I've listed should cover most maintenance tasks for your car.
I woudln't buy one without first getting an ELM327 Bluetooth ODBD2 diagnostic scanner and checking the battery's health with LeafSpy for Android or some equivalent to both.
The one I bought in 2014 is this one, but it is currently unavailable.
Get a Bluetooth obd2 dongle and the torque app for android. About $20 for both
scanner
torque
I'm using this IFTTT recipe( requires Dash app on phone and Google account (for Drive)) and this bluetooth ODB2 adapter to automatically get pretty spreadsheets on my Google Drive showing everything I could ever care about my car trips. Distance, gas consumption (actual and average), average speed, weather, start and end points... It's great.
I keep my OBD2 adapter connected to the car at all times and Dash auto-starts when it detects the OBD2 device over bluetooth.
You could buy a coolant tester and see where it sits, then syphon off some and replace with coolant until it is what you are looking for. They are pretty cheap, here is an example:
Amazon linky
Check your oil. Your oil light is on. The engine light is a generic "check engine" light, so I can't tell you about that one. It may be just because your oil pressure light is on. Easiest way to find out without spending too much scratch is to get an ODBII scanner and look at the codes. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY
First, oil. If that doesn't clear it, scan it.
Cheap, easy, and butt dyno approved:
Are you going to turn your SE into an ST? Nope. But hey, you're spending about $80. You could throw another $462 at Tom's tune (comes with an SCT X4 tuner, which is why it's so expensive). It will improve performance; whether or not that improvement is worth the money is up to you. It might also help with shudder if you have it (and if you don't yet, you will, so get ready).
I use this guy, http://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Windows/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420043600&sr=8-1&keywords=isaddle+super+mini+elm327
And Torque for Android. Works great, Torque's UI is really stupid though.
Not a complete answer OP..
But I got one of these when I suspected my ex of cheating:
Automatic AUT-350C Pro Gold 3G Connected Car Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_uAAYEAqunJTtg
Just wrap it in electric tape, taps right into the OBDII port and with the tape you can't even see it. It shows travel time, destination address, and I could even use the 3G to look at location real time. Works flawlessly and I actually still have it in case the car is stolen. The accompanying app is a little rudimentary but it has everything you need, and you can even tie it into IFTTT if you want
Edit: since I saw another response, this is $130 or so but requires no battery or monthly plan. It uses 3G cell towers for all the information. Since everything is 4G and up today they don't even bother with a plan
This is the best answer, so I'm just tagging on to say that there's a cheap tool to tell you how much water there's in your coolant.
https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY
Most DIYers use the torque app (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en)for androids and use this ((http://www.amazon.com/Version-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Interface-Scanner/dp/B008UR7J6I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1372219549&sr=1-1&keywords=elm327) to link it to their car
This might be what you're looking for
http://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Windows/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416284424&sr=8-2&keywords=iSaddle
You can get this and leave the insurance company out of it.
I'm from Romania so I've got it from a local store. The price is similar on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/Version-Bluetooth-Multi-Language-12Kinds-Android/dp/B00N2K6M2A
For Linux a very good starting point is obdsim project.
Good luck with you project and keep us posted.
If the light is on because of a real code, resetting it will only cause it to light up the first time you start the car.
The reason they are hesitant to reset is also in case you are trying to mis-represent the vehicle/in case of accident/insurance claim. If you were selling it, and the light is on because brakes are failing, they might be liable.
That having been said, the solution to what you want is only an Amazon away, and there are tons of cheap options. The one I have cost 7 bucks, got it the next day.
https://smile.amazon.com/OBD2-Scanner-Professional-Diagnostic-Effortlessly/dp/B0725Q6X7B/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536704940&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=reset+check+engine+light&psc=1
(note: This is not the one I got, its tied to a smartphone app by BT which is why it was cheaper. Also not endorsing any product here).
Good luck!
Sounds like antifreeze. If you want to see what the specific gravity (coolant to water ratio) go get one of these from a local parts store.
It's one of those things that literally 99% of the time you don't find anything. But that 1% chance you find an awesome tool. I found this temp gun for $3.99 with hard case and paperwork. It was probably priced low because they had no clue what it was. Most of the time the shit you find just buy new because GW's know thrifting is popular and price stuff just below new price, no matter how complete shit or missing pieces or used hard it is.
> Any old $20 POS model might work great for a year, maybe even two or three, but just remember: you only buy the best once. So don't do it for me–do it for your coffee's sake and your friend's sake. And your daughter's sake.
> http://www.amazon.com/Raytek-MT6-Non-contact-MiniTemp-Thermometer/dp/B000O80B5M
That's just crazy talk. Any old $50 POS might work for a while, but just remember you only buy the best once. So why not go with this thermal thermometer from CEM? It's got 3 automatic image adjustment histograms and video capacity. For your coffee's sake, your friend's sake and of course your daughter: http://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Building-Diagnostics-thermometer-infrared/dp/B00G616WQS. Buy it now for $11,321.00 + $40.80 shipping. Full disclaimer: I don't work for CEM. I'm just a concerned coffee drinker.
It depends. If you use an Android or Windows, Bluetooth is the better bet. If you use an iPhone, you're better off with wifi because of the way that Apple licenses bluetooth (it's complicated).
I personally use this. Almost the exact same one comes with bluetooth and is significantly cheaper.
Great read, heres a $5 cheaper version on Prime of the bluetooth connector
http://amzn.com/B0090ZJPMK
Do you have an OBD II reader?
If you are on Android - test out the Torque App on Google Play before you buy Torque Pro just to make sure your bluetooth transmitter is compatible and you like the interface and all of that. When I was looking into a year or two ago, Torque was like THE highest rated and widely used app amongst performance car enthusiasts.
This is the OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter I bought a while ago and it works great with Torque - but there are dozens and dozens of choices for adapters.
That's $80. You could buy 8 of the cheap bluetooth ones for that price.
http://www.amazon.com/Version-Bluetooth-Multi-Language-12Kinds-Android/dp/B00N2K6M2A/ref=sr_1_3
I've bought 4 of them so far (for me, brothers and dad) and they're all going 2 years strong.
Probably something like this
CarBridge is a tweak for jailbroken iPhones. It lets you run nearly any app over CarPlay. It also lets you adjust the number of icons on the CarPlay home screen. I just got it up and running tonight so I’m still playing around with it. I wasn’t able to get PS4 Remote Play working but Splashtop works perfectly so I can access my desktop PC from my car stereo, which is awesome. I'm totally going to Photoshop something using Sync 3 haha. YouTube was my primary reason for installing CarBridge but the Xfinity app and VLC also work great. Looking forward to being able to watch live TV and even recordings from my DVR while I’m stuck in traffic.
A few others I tried are weather radar, iMessages that let you actually see the messages, the camera app, and an OBDII app that communicates with my ELM327 Wi-Fi OBDII reader. Now that I know it works I’m going to choose an app that shows gauges (those all cost money) so I can see stuff like oil pressure, boost, voltage, etc. when I’m running the car hard. Oh, and of course, Apollo for Reddit works as it should.
All the apps perform quickly and the image actually looks pretty crisp and detailed in person. These pics aren't doing it justice (had to use my iPad) but I was really impressed by how sharp it was when I used 720 or 1080 resolution in YouTube. I also highly recommend this glass screen protector to improve the look and feel of the screen. It’s like a night and day difference vs the fingerprint magnet plastic factory touchscreen. Much less glare too.
The one downside I noticed is that Sync 3 doesn't support multi-touch but overall I’m really happy with the results. Well worth the $4.99 for CarBridge. Let me know if you can think of any other apps that would be fun to try.
Hey man, get whatever size you want. Recalibrating the speedo is super easy and takes 10 minutes.
Buy an ELM compatible dongle (this is mine) and run Forscan on your laptop. You can change your tire size to whatever you want and your speedo, odo and everything else will be 100% accurate.
I'm running OEM FiST wheels on my EcoBoost and my speedo is still perfect, even though the 17"s are about 1" bigger on the diameter.
Here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC/
As far as uploading to a private cloud, that would be a bit more difficult. You could probably set up a server to forward the data to a private cloud, but it'd still be on their servers first.
__
To DIY a solution, you're talking about a bluetooth dongle with some sort of cellular-activated IOT device, AND a GPS puck/receiver, plus the private cloud you'd set up separately. Do-able if you're looking for a project, but definitely more expensive both time and money wise than the bought solution (the GPS alone is ~$50, add an OBD dongle and an RPi and you're over-budget already). If you're trying to do pre-96 cars, that's a LOT of custom wiring, due to the lack of OBD2 (and I'd know, because I went through all that to datalog my '94 MX3).
OBD2 OBD Scanner Professional Diagnostic Car Scanner Tool and Car Code Reader, One Click Check Engine Light Reset, Fix Car Problems Effortlessly! Read and Clear Trouble Codes for All Cars and Trucks! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725Q6X7B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zXngAb8GSCCXD
I have this and it gives a code and you can just google the code to find out the issue.
What year is your Jeep? As long as it’s 96 or newer you can use a generic OBD2 reader like this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725Q6X7B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3rn1CbVBWPM0R
If you do decide to code, here's the ODB I purchased. https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6
Another point I'd make about getting a 2015 now. When I purchased mine, it still had three months left of BMW warranty. I immediately took mine to the dealer and got any warranty work done. You won't have that option with a 2015 now. Just food for thought. I'm out of warranty and not worried. It's a very well made car.
I recommend these begginer tools for you, they'll help you a ton: Brake fluid tester, a brake pad gauge, a coolant tester and Lubricheck. Also if you don't have one get a Torque wrench or you'll fuck up your car's screw holes, and finally, get a Haynes repair manual for your specific model.
There still around. I have one.
https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY
Amazon calls the coolant testers, but they used to be called something else. Like a hydrometer, though I know that isn't the name of these things.
Yes, if it says its low, water is fine. Just make sure you get the mix right when you go to replace it.
https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY
I think that /u/rld14 pretty much covered it. But there are a few things I would add. Some of these may not apply to you, but this thread could be useful to others.
this RayTek non-contact thermometer. I use it constantly in my quest to not give myself food poisoning.
Well if there is a puddle, then it's safe to say that's where your coolant is going. If you are crafty, you can take off the plastic panels underneath the car and have a look for leaks. If you want to go pro level crafty they make a tool that you can use to put pressure on the coolant system. When you put pressure on the system, you will definitely be able to find the leak.
There are test kits that screw into the filler cap opening and pressurize the system. That's probably your best bet.
Mityvac MV4560 Radiator/Cooling System and Pressure Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E3ZDzb1VSDBWC
If that doesnt work, you can add UV dye to your coolant and search with a black light. I've seen people crack open a yellow highlighter on the cheap. Just be sure to do a coolant flush afterwards.
Yeah it's a coolant leak allright then.
Techniques for coolant leaks:
Pressurize the system, listen and look. Maybe not this one, but you get the idea:
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504476535&sr=1-2&keywords=coolant+pressure+tester
UV dye. Same, not a recommendation, just a link to the concept.
https://www.amazon.com/FJC-4972-Fluorescent-Leak-Detection/dp/B008QEYTZ4/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504476572&sr=1-2&keywords=coolant+UV+dye+kit
But with your rate of draining, you should be able to find it just by eyeballing. Bet that engine compartment is cramped. 'Course they make stuff for that too. Mirrors on sticks, borescopes.
Jags love to mark their territory.
Check the radiator, hoses, especially where they connect or have a junction. Check the water pump.
Funny thing is it's usually not the engine. Most of the time I've seen it come on, it's an exhaust problem. It can also be something like a cylinder misfire in the engine but you'd probably notice that before the light came on because it would be running really rough.
Anyway, you can just buy one of these and read if your OBD is throwing any codes. I don't know if this specific one is any good... just the first one that popped on Google. Or you can take it to Autozone and they'll check it for free.
http://www.amazon.com/OBD2-Reader-Diagnostic-OBD-MT-50/dp/B004IV58AY
Why would you bother when a cheap OBD-II scanner costs $16?
(Let's be honest; if you need something beyond the cheap scanner then your problem is more than likely not something you're going to fix in your driveway unless you're a mechanic anyway!)
To add on to this, a cheap and good investment is a basic OBD II reader (eg. https://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY). They are especially useful when the catchall "check engine" light comes on. There should be a port underneath your steering wheel somewhere (it's often easier to see if you sit on the ground with the door open). Plug the reader in, turn the car on, and it will give you the error codes that you can google along with your Make/Model to figure out what's wrong.
If it's something simple then you can easily fix it and even if you take it to a mechanic, you can lead in with "this is broken" and catch them if they try to charge you for hundreds in diagnostics and unnecessary parts.
Also I don't know what area you are in but frequently Auto parts shops such as Auto Zone or Advanced Auto Parts can be a wealth of knowledge; they'll make sure parts you're buying are a match for your car and sometimes will even loan you obscure tools you may need to complete a job.
I bought this one and have been very happy. You will need a laptop to use it. It will do all the basic error code checks, but also has the ability to log sensor data, which is nice when you're trying troubleshoot.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ZWM0R4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Fq5GAbV5ZBNZV
Get this cable for $29.99
Get this FREE software called ForScan and install it to a laptop.
It will do everything you need it to. Ford Specific tests as well as ABS, BODY, AIRBAG modules can be read and even programmed.
id say go for the lower miles. get a car fax. get under it for awhile (when i buy used im under the truck for an hour or two) just looking. leaks, cracks, rust whatever. bring a flash light and an inspection mirror. i now bring a bore scope. push it down into the frame. cheap on amazon. hooks up to your smart phone.
https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Semi-rigid-Inspection-Waterproof-Adjustable/dp/B00STB0EW6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499134773&sr=8-2&keywords=borescope
power washing can hide alot. cant hide mud and muck in side a box frame, pull wheels off and look at the brakes.
get a cheap obd II scan tool, pc one is what i have. plug it in, read what it says.
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-425801-OBDLink-USB-Professional/dp/B005ZWM0R4/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1499134641&sr=8-25&keywords=obd+2
> The maestro is only reading what the vehicle is providing so the speed and accuracy is limited by the vehicle manufacturer.
That's bullshit. :/
With something like this you'll see it's a big difference in PIDs/second. Just about any recent car will give you well over 100 PIDs/second. Meanwhile cheapo versions or wireless versions will limit you to 20, or even 10. It's not on the manufacturers, their own equipment has to read this data, if it's not accurate and fast it's either an older car (anything pre-05, most pre-08) or the scanner software/hardware is garbage.
keep an eye out, when you reset the ECU, it cleared the codes, sometimes they come back after driving some amount of miles. I doubt if this one will though.
I strongly suggest getting a bluetooth ODBII reader and the torque app for your phone, the reader and the app are cheap, you can read codes, clear codes and read pretty much every sensor on your jeep.
I have this scanner and it works like a charm
They're pretty much all the same thing. I've been using this one for a couple years and it has yet to let me down. I use it with the Torque app on Android, and it works fine on my 13' Volt.
Here are the ones I use, 10 bucks each, and yes they work with Torque on Android. OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter
Yep. This one to be exact.
I don't like to run my AC just the heater, the first thing to prob go will either be a locking mechanism in one of the doors or god forbid your head gasket.
Don't add any weird shit to your coolant, pop the hood every other week and have a look around for any deposits on the block of coolant or anything.
I would also recommend getting one of these bluetooth OBD scanners and use the Dashcommand app with it. So should a light come on your dash you can diagnose it quickly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0090ZJPMK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PZ-mub1NYDN31
These are not iPhone compatible but are on androids. If an ABS issue arises it will have to go to a shop that has the right stuff to diagnose it, not many obd scanners can touch a Rovers ABS computer.
Premium ga$ only! Have fun!
nothing your typical ELM327 mini cant already do, while paired to your non IOS phone with torque pro installed.
verizon prices: 75$ plus mobile data fees involved...
ELM327 price: 7-15 dollars on ebay
torque pro app price: 5$ on google play store
I use a $12 bluetooth ODBII reader from ISaddle - https://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Windows/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473984041&sr=8-1&keywords=isaddle+obdii
Paired to DashCommand or Torque. I like the interface of DashCommand much better, but Torque allows for a little more customization.
I use the following with Torque Pro (android) via bluetooth. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLZCVGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sorry, first is Dash and second is Torque. Torque is by far the de-facto application for interfacing with OBD readers. Let's you create dials however you want and supports themeing to get it looking how you like.
My current reader is just a standard ELM327 reader http://www.amazon.com/Version-Bluetooth-Multi-Language-12Kinds-Android/dp/B00N2K6M2A/ That chipset comes in MANY readers so just find something that's available and priced decently and get it.
I have owned 3 2.2s. They tend to run cold because they don't produce a ton of heat like larger displacement engines. If it's cold out it runs cold. If it is hot out and the mechanical fan is stuck on it runs normal temps. Also the dash gauge is not as accurate as the ECU temp readouts.
My guess is that you live in a cold environment and your mechanical thermostat is broken or old enough that it doesn't work right.
I currently have a built 2.2 turbo. When it is cold out, the gauge will read 150-185 when it is 30 or lower to 60 degrees. That is cruising on the highway at 50-70. Now I also use HPtuners to tune. I monitor my temps. Typically the loop from the heater core to the block will be within 180 to 195 where it is supposed to be.
My recommendations.
[obd2 to bluetooth adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N2K6M2A/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0051CAE1C&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0T816CFEDTS905VMXVPW) - I own this one. It works.
GLHF
What is the difference between a Hum and something like an automatic?
http://www.digitaltrends.com/cars/automatic-verizon-hum-vinli-feature-comparison/
Seems like it can operate without a smart device, but otherwise provides the same service?
If the car is newer than 1996 and you want to do it yourself you need to look into ODBII. But by the time you get the pi and accessories and an ODBII adapter it would be not much more money to just get something like this this. I've seen them on sale for as little as $79.99.
Havent looked into the bluedriver as mine has worked just fine for my needs. A quick glance at the page, and I'd guess you're paying extra for their app and the service "Your in-app Repair Reports are created by certified professional mechanics".
If I was going to get any of the more expensive options, I'd probably look at Automatic
I've seen someone pull a report of their fuel efficiency at different speeds with a comparison to other people with the same car. Without much more knowledge of it than that, it seems that Automatic has some nice software behind theirs that is only compatible with their dongle.
Though I'm sure they technically could make it compatible with mine as well....
As far as nice to knows, you could pull that same fuel efficiency:speed comparison, but it'd be up to you to plot it out on excel. You could watch your fuel level and have your phone give you extra notifications if you are forgetful like me.
Carista app allows you to make a couple of minor changes to how your car works, most of which can be adjusted through your display, but a couple of extras. Just have to look in their app, but they charge like $10 for a week of use of their app. Though the idea is you set your changes, maybe tweek over the week, then you're done.
I dont usually use mine except for scanning for codes, but there are plenty of data points to look through.
What's your budget?
Boston Sports
Non Boston Sports
Amazon and eBay are full of knockoff ELM327 ones that work about the same. I've got this one, and it works fine but I don't like how far it sticks out from the ODB2 port. So this one might be better?
https://www.amazon.com/KOBRA-Wireless-OBD-Scanner-Connects/dp/B01C3HAHCS?keywords=OBD2+Scanner&qid=1537278656&s=Automotive&sr=1-10&ref=sr_1_10
You (and everyone else) should purchaase a bluetooth IBD2 scanner. They are fairly cheap and come with a ton of cool features if you have the right apps on your phone
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C3HAHCS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2
This works great if you just want to read codes.
You can search this site, or LKQ's online website to find a Sync 3 Screen and APIM. Junkyards sell them as separate units and for a lot more, so I recommend LKQ's site first; they usually sell them together for one low price. Make sure it is Sync 3 (2016+ Focus) and not Sync 2.
​
Next, you'll need a new media hub (Part # HU5Z-19A387-A) for Android Auto and Apply CarPlay to work, as well as an adapter plate and wiring harness from 4Dtech. When you have all of these, you can plug the Sync 3 system in and it will work on its own.
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You can choose to leave it as such and deal with some of the small bugs it may have, or you can reprogram it to work with your vehicle options. 2012 is the only year where you need to program the APIM for it to recognize the steering wheel controls. To program, you will need this OBDII reader and the FORscan program with a free extended license. With FORscan, you can flash the APIM to enable or disable settings such as the back-up camera--if you do not have one, climate control repeater (where the temperature displays on the sceen), colors and themes, steering wheel controls, etc. Do NOT play around with the hex codes too much or you may brick your APIM. I have a hex code master list I can forward to you via email if you decide to undergo the project. It sounds harder than it actually is. I was able to have it installed and programmed in about an hour.
Sorry, yes, "ELM327". I bought this one - it's for sale from the same seller currently as well (OHP Tools). Apparently there are a lot of knock-offs or cheap versions that don't always work properly but this one seems to be a good version. I've had no issues.
Thanks, bluetooth elm327 obd2 dongle ($15 from amazon) and the app Torque for android (5$), the best 20 dollars I've spent on my car in a long long time.
https://www.amazon.com/Mestart-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538283099&sr=8-4&keywords=elm327+bluetooth
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en
Yeah, 87,000 is close enough that it wouldn't hurt to do the spark plugs now. With that bad vibration/check engine light it's hard to say what might have caused it.
Over the years I've had a few occasions where I've had something similar, but it's been so few and far between that it's usually easiest to chalk up to a computer glitch that's resolved by the restart and not something with a mechanical cause. If it happens again try to read the code. An inexpensive code reading solution is any cheap ELM327 bluetooth OBD II adapter from Amazon (around $10) and the Torque app for an Android phone. A more powerful solution that can give you BMW specific codes and also lets you do lots of coding to customize features in your car is to buy the Carly adapter (Android adapter, iOS adapter) and their app.
They're all DIYable, some with a higher skill level than others of course. If you have a place to do it and can read and follow instructions you can do any job and save lots of money even if you need to buy the tools first. Lots of people are intimidated by it but with just a bit of care it's something anyone can handle. One of the big things I follow that solves the biggest problems new DIYers face is using a torque wrench when tightening fasteners. If you do that you won't need to worry about overtightening anything and breaking off a bolt, or undertightening and having it come out. If you aren't comfortable with it or you can't afford to take the time to do it yourself, a good independent shop will be a much better bet than the dealership.
Here are DIYs for the ones I mentioned:
Spark Plugs (Easy)
Ignition coil removal - Part of spark plug DIY.
Valve cover gasket (Challenging)
Motor Mount (Moderate challenge, but more in the getting to bolts way than complexity) Couldn't find a Youtube video I liked, this has lots of pictures and good step-by-step though. The only thing I would change from their DIY is to use this or similar engine support bar rather than supporting the engine from below.
I'd say the spark plugs and coils are absolutely something you can do yourself but read and watch the DIYs on the motor mounts and VCG carefully before deciding to tackle that. If you see no oil down in the spark plug you likely don't need the VCG anyway, and the motor mounts would just cause you to feel the misfires more and you can actually see it on the tach.
ELM327 is the one you want to be looking for.
https://www.amazon.com/OBD2-OBDII-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2HZI9Y1SS61UY&keywords=elm327+bluetooth+obd2&qid=1554761236&s=gateway&sprefix=elm327+%2Caps%2C296&sr=8-3
Something like this.
Tangental information: this sounds a lot like the "Automatic" device, though there are others this info might be useful to you:
Automatic AUT-350C Pro Gold 3G Connected Car Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC
Edited:
copied from amazon description:
Automatic Pro is an adapter that plugs into almost any car to provide unlimited monitoring with zero fees. Know where your car is at all times, make sure that in the event of an accident that you and your family will be taken care of, and even connect your car to your Echo, your smart thermostat, or any other part of your digital life. This product works only in the US.
https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Connected-Realtime-Diagnostics-Detection/dp/B01JRBQ9PC
I bought this scanner for less than 20 bucks and it works great with forscan
I also have a Bluetooth adapter for Torque.
I wouldn't recommend a Bluetooth one personally, but that's just because I know how bad wireless technology can be sometimes and I wouldn't want to risk my ECU. This is the one I bought for less than $20 that works perfectly with those programs.
Takes less than 5mins to do. You need an obd2 to usb cable(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N18TOFB?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf), and The Focccus program(http://ford.xtlt.ru/FoCCCus/).
Hey bud. That code reader is really, really outdated. It's a very basic one that is ultra economy. It's not going to work for certain cars because who knows why. I recommend an Angel AD410, it's a scanner I use at my shop for quick diag for simple problems, however in your case it will work very well and give you a lot of extra functionality, you can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/ANCEL-AD410-Enhanced-Vehicle-Automotive/dp/B071FSNL73/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=ancel+ad410&qid=1574729264&sprefix=ancel+ad4&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTlFCWUJKM1FUOTBCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzMwNTI1Sk04UjNKVjhISVhVJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyNDk5MTYxOFhNUzdYVllHU1dNJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Also, what code is the light on for? Did you fix the issue?
Works with OBD Fusion and Bimmercode.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I used the Bluetooth OBDII adapter I got on Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kvw5Cb3ZXY7X7 and the BimmerCode app for Android. Not sure how to go about it with other methods, but the 2addicts forum had plenty of info.
Bring a Bluetooth OBD port with you and check the car that way, you’ll be sure it’s not been throwing CELs and such.
Veepeak OBDCheck BLE OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner Auto OBD II Diagnostic Scan Tool for iOS & Android, Bluetooth 4.0 Car Check Engine Light Code Reader Supports Torque, OBD Fusion app https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_93YZDbNPB3F60
This is the one I bought. Works great. Veepeak
Too funny you just posted this question. I researched this exact question today and bought an OBD2 about the time you were posting this. This reddit thread convinced me to go with the BAFX product for $27 for a quality wifi scanner. The LeLink\^2 one was my second choice based off of Leaf drivers' recommendations but the selling point there was leaving it plugged in, which I don't plan to do. I just want to reversibly disable the VSP sounds.
I got this OBDLINK MX+ or you can get the somewhat cheaper OBDLINK LX. I would have gotten the LX but I needed the MX+ for my application.
Simple, test it (you should have one of these on hand anyway): http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY/
Make sure you have adequate coolant protection before you ship it. You don't want it to freeze up and break something. You can pick one of these coolant testers up at any parts store but if you haven't changed the coolant lately then you should do so.
Your smoke may be a heater core as others have suggested. For the little bit of running they need to do to ship it you should be fine but if you're worried you can easily bypass the heater core for now. Just loop the heater hose from one connector on the engine to the other or pickup a bypass kit at the parts store.
Ok so coolant is probably ok but better to change it, I am still learning how to change coolant so I will do it afterwards. But I used a tester and it's just 1C below the recommended level 265C so I guess coolant is still pretty good. Also didn't see sediment or crap in the coolant. Coolant tester is this one is it any accurate? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BOA9RY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Yeah brake fluid definitely going to change that, will be changing it to TYP 200 the blue one.
​
If I track the car 3,4 times a year, how often to change out the TYP 200?
> You can get one from Amazon for about $20.
Or you can spend just a little bit more and get the Raytek Mini-Temp 6. It is excellent, measures accurately to a tenth of the degree and is made of sturdy materials and will be fun to have for measuring the temperature of everything all the time, in addition to being ideal for someone looking for as close to perfection as possible with every cup.
My friends and I take this unit camping and fishing, you can use it take your temperature when you are sick (say "ahh" and take a reading of the back of your throat), you can use it on your car before and while performing maintenance, on your daughter's car in the middle of the night to see whether she may have snuck out, etc.
Any old $20 POS model might work great for a year, maybe even two or three, but just remember: you only buy the best once. So don't do it for me–do it for your coffee's sake and your friend's sake. And your daughter's sake.
http://www.amazon.com/Raytek-MT6-Non-contact-MiniTemp-Thermometer/dp/B000O80B5M
Raytek MT6 Non-contact MiniTemp Infrared Thermometer
http://amzn.com/B000O80B5M
Yeah I thought about grabbing a coolant tester. Might try the Mityvac brand from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G
I suspect you have a leak somewhere else, as long as it's not overheating or running too hot, you should be able to get it to a dealer without issue. They'll pressure test the cooling system and find the leak, likely a bad o-ring or hose clamp. Or you can do it yourself with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G Just don't go past your system's max pressure or you may blow out a seal or o-ring. Good luck.
Good idea. A friend also suggested a cooling system pressure tester. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486473117&sr=8-1&keywords=cooling+system+pressure+tester
$45 from amazon. This one can be used on many cars and trucks too. It's a nice quick little diag tool that can save you tons of money in the long run. I'd charge you $65 for a diagnostic (Labor)
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368137222&sr=8-1&keywords=radiator+pressure+tester
You might want to buy one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY
It allows you to view and reset the code yourself. If you keep an eye out they go on sale for $10-$15 sometimes too.
What year?
If you are just trying to read or clear codes, This will work. It's cheap and it gives you the code. I have this exact one in my tool box and bring it with me if someone asks me to look at their car. I then use google to search what the code means for the car.
I'd wager to say that the Tesla allows for more control and more configuration, so perhaps i should have said "a customizable on-board computer".
Since the majority of cars today get their "sophisticated" computer translated by a specific piece of hardware that gives feedback in cryptic codes that require translation.
Might be the onboard computer or other electronics then if you think the Fuel Pump is fine. There are electronics in the Relay, though, and it could just be an error with the starting sequence. Do you have one of these by any chance? Might narrow down the issue, might do nothing, might outright tell you what's wrong. Also just good to have on hand, that way if you ever go to a mechanic you can inform him ahead of time that you did an OBDII reading, and tell him the diagnostics it gave. Much less likely to get gouged by expensive tests like engine compression if you come armed.
> OBD2 reader
The one my friend has, and the one I'm going to ask him to read my car with tonight is this: http://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY
If it works out, I'm ordering one immediately.
I bought one of these about 5 years ago and LOVE it.
It comes with free software to load on a laptop.
I've used it for everything from just clearing the CEL for friends to monitoring all data while driving (very cool dashboards with this software).
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-425801-OBDLink-USB-Professional/dp/B005ZWM0R4
I have a standard usb OBD cable but not specialized for tuning. It comes with some gimped software, but has worked with better software previously. If you could use it, you'd be welcome to borrow it.
Next time, get one of these. You can plug it into the OBDII port of your car. If you have android, get this app. Connect your phone to the scanner via Bluetooth and use the app to read the code.
The one I have looks like this and this. If you plan on leaving it plugged in, I'd recommend a smaller one as long as it has good reviews, depending on where your car's port is located. The one I got sticks out about 3 inches so my knee or foot hits it when it's plugged in.
I have had this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Version-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Interface-Scanner/dp/B008UR7J6I
for 2 years - works FANTASTIC I use it on my Mini, BMW, GTO and Civic as well as my dad's Ram and mom's A4.
For iPhone:
http://www.amazon.com/Elm327-Wirless-Diagnostic-Scanner-Wireless/dp/B00871CJFI
For Android:
http://www.amazon.com/Version-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Interface-Scanner/dp/B008UR7J6I
There are "mini" versions but I have 0 experience with those. I'm sure they work just as well. Hope this helps!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008UR7J6I/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cheaper version that works just as well!
So lucky! If your check engine light does come on you should get one of these! http://www.amazon.com/ELM327-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B0090ZJPMK
So handy and can save you tons of money!
Better still
Combined with a smartphone/tablet application like Torque and hey presto.
Amazon, $15
its down to $10 now
http://www.amazon.com/ELM327-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B0090ZJPMK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1367946933&sr=8-7&keywords=obd+ii+bluetooth
Mine works great but the quality seems iffy, there are many others on Amazon though that are similar prices. Mine has worked on my WRX, my Wifes Mazda, My friends Jeep and another Friends Ford Explorer. (I have become a go-to for getting CEL codes diagnosed)
then I actually purchased an app $5 called "torque" on the google play market (android). It allows me to read codes, display anything from boost or coolant temp to speed and RPM, and even has built in 0-60 tests and can use the phones accelerometer. You can also do data logging and record videos with the data embedded in the video. It will even do a map overlay using google maps and GPS data.
My suggestion: I have a Bluetooth obd2 reader in my car. There pretty cheap and you can pull check engine light codes.
Something like this iSaddle Super Mini Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Scan Tool Check Engine Ligh... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_XH9xub06NA4KW
This one. been working fine for the last 2 years or so.
As the other poster mentioned - I'd get an ELM327 OBDII reader cheap, though you need an android device to use it. There are some that work over wi-fi for Apple devices, but the linked one below is bluetooth only.
I have this one, mated to a Nexus 7, and use the Torque app ($1.99, I think):
https://www.amazon.com/Version-Bluetooth-Multi-Language-12Kinds-Android/dp/B00N2K6M2A
I'm not a mechanic, but:
If the CEL is on it has codes.
If the CEL is off it doesn't have codes, either because it is fine, or because the owner cleared them with a reader.
Get in the car and turn the key but don't start it, see if the CEL lights up, if it doesn't, they likely pulled the bulb because afaik, it should always light up when the key is in the on position but the car isn't started.
As for stores, you need to specify a location.
I personally use this one along with Torque and [DASH]
(https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dashlabs.dash.android&hl=en)
In the USA I believe Autozone does free scans, but they sell readers as well.
I'm using torque pro and this Bluetooth Latest Version V2.1 Super MINI ELM327 Bluetooth OBD/OBD2 ELM 327 Multi-Language 12Kinds Works ON Android Torque/PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N2K6M2A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_mEJ3wbCXJSHXQ
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en
$12 and it can scan codes, log, virtual dash, etc on both my 08 A4 and my wife's 08 Highlander via my kindle fire hd6.
If you want to go deeper, VCDS or the schwaben/foxwell scanners are the only readily options.
Yeah, I bought this one. Comes with a disc that has Torque Pro and DashCommand on it. I never could get DashCommand to work though. It wouldn't connect to the adapter and was only the trial version anyway.
I've been a huge fan of this automatic mileage tracker that plugs into your car: https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Connected-Diagnostics-Detection-Compatible/dp/B00UZ0OHIQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510018485&tag=rigubl0f-20&sr=8-4
You can deduct the cost of it on your taxes since you're solely using it for work.
Wow, awesome response. Thanks for going into detail! I was just watching some videos...doesn't seem like it's that bad at all. I'll have to take a shot.
Next question. What do you guys do for GPS trackers? I would rather have more data and don't want to use Lojack. I thought about building some arduino system with its own GPS and 3G radio/sim.
I looked at this too since it ties directly into the OBD and would maybe be less visible/have greater range with wired power. I bought an Automatic along with an OBD splitter (for a future OBD device running in slave mode), which I don't expect will tell me much but is more for fun data.
https://www.amazon.com/KOBRA-Wireless-OBD-Scanner-Connects/dp/B01C3HAHCS/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1491692186&sr=1-5&keywords=obd2+scanner
https://www.amazon.com/KOBRA-Wireless-Upgraded-Version-Connects/dp/B01C3HAHCS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486618318&sr=8-1&keywords=obd+code+reader+iphone
Yeah but since you don't know about cars what are you gonna do even if you find out? Just take it in to a shop anyway right?
Plus there's this so it'd not end of the works expensive if you do want to find out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C3HAHCS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_OMxqybKVX4J86
https://www.amazon.com/Goliath-Industry-Wireless-Upgraded-Connects/dp/B01C3HAHCS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1480687470&sr=8-9&keywords=OBD+II+reader
I can't find my original model I purchased but it was similar to this one. Just make sure to unplug it after use. Most have protection to ensure it can't send signals INTO your car...and well bluetooth is shoddy as hell in a vehicle...but you never know.
Got a smart phone?
Reader 1
Reader 2
I don't know how shipping works to Canada, but it isn't too expensive of a product, and I am sure you can find it locally. It is a very handy tool.
That sounds like pretty good fuel econ lol. With my tune my 335i gets around 14-18 MPG
you can, or even lower around a quarter if you want. It will take time to work its way into the fuel system, so you're going to want to go through at least 1/8 of a tank, or more. Or try a full tank like this, every highway run leave it in a lower gear to get the cat cooking hot.
Ive had good luck with this scanner, and a $4 app.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C3HAHCS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can clear a check engine code with one of those $20 WiFi or Bluetooth OBDII code readers and an app. Not sure if it can clear the other lights but it’s worth a try.
Edit: I have this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C3HAHCS/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1520275478&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=obd2+scanner&dpPl=1&dpID=41xGaO7JCrL&ref=plSrch
Forscan is a software you install on a laptop/phone, and use an OBD adapter to change settings within the Ford software.
It sounds crazy, but it’s insane how easy it is. You can change literally any setting on the car, as well as add features. I added the digital speedometer, and tire pressure monitor to screen in the middle of the gauges.
Let me know if you need help with it. Forscan is free, and OBD adapters are like $20-30 on Amazon. I would recommend the OHP ELM27 adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F0GVBWY/
OHP ELMconfig OBD2 to USB ELM327 Adapter with MS-Can & HS-Can Switch and Forscan Compatible for DIY Ford Diagnostics on Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F0GVBWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UHV.Bb509ZBEM
Thanks, I took my truck back to the dealer and they agreed with me that it was not bad sensors and had him try to change it but their software will only let it be set to a higher pressure and would not let them disable it.
I am going to order a USB to ODB2 adapter (https://www.amazon.com/OHP-ELMconfig-compatible-interface-diagnostics/dp/B01F0GVBWY ) and download Forscan and give this a shot. Can you tell me where it is at in the software?
you can buy one of these https://www.amazon.com/OHP-ELMconfig-Adapter-Compatible-Diagnostics/dp/B01F0GVBWY/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2/143-9378873-2981068?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01F0GVBWY&pd_rd_r=2e7e2eef-66cc-497e-9fd2-f88a2d85c46c&pd_rd_w=sYW8F&pd_rd_wg=FswH1&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=8YD7YHWEV7ERNQWK632B&psc=1&refRID=8YD7YHWEV7ERNQWK632B
and download this forscan.org
​
to access the CAN bus and modify LCM data ie turn off dark mode and enable keyless entry, without going to the dealership.
That scan tool also will read out OBD2 codes and live stream diagnostic data ie cylinder head temps etc.
If you don't want to spend as much, I bought this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F0GVBWY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
And it's worked perfectly without any issues whatsoever.
Have you tried a wired usb adapter? I couldn't get bluetooth or wifi ones to work but a wired one works great.
This is the one that worked for me
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0GVBWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For ForScan, I went with the wired OBD2-USB device https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0GVBWY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A lot of people use a bluetooth version, I just didn't want to have to worry about the BT connection dropping in the middle of a "write" and have it mess something up.
Make sure you request your ForScan software license as soon as you order your device, it takes about a day to get approved.
I got the Anzo's and the LED grill lights from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KBP9RRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015ZXPTXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are the H7 LEDs I used. (You can't reuse stock H11s) http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Headlight-Conversion-LED-Headlight-Bulbs-8000-Lumens-6000K-Plug-N-Play-H7/192063990764?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 They're unbranded versions of the Oracle's that Stage3 sells, but for about half the price. http://www.stage3motorsports.com//5232-001-Oracle-4-000-Lumen-H7-LED-Conversion-Kit.html
You can get a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner on Amazon for around $11. This is the one I use with Torque.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1icJAbT64GMYR
I bought this one. I only had it a few weeks, but has worked without issue. There are cheaper ones, bit I got this because it had prime. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_VZjqzb9WVN19B
OBD2 OBDII Bluetooth for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ygp5BbARC58R8
Sorry I just saw your comment. This is the one I have. And the app I have is
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque
obd2 elm327 readers can be had for $15
With $8 software, you get verbose at home diagnostic info, including real time while driving.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_NzW-BbYKWTYMV
Newer cars, it might not even be the alt.
Get this (iOS has an equivalent), and one of these, and you can crack any engine light issue. Mine is going on 11 years. Best purchase I've made.
My mistake it was $10 I keep one in every car. You just download the torque app on your phone.
What about this device?
Automatic AUT-350C Pro Gold 3G Connected Car Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lw65yb4890EAH
This one. I got it for Christmas and I've enjoyed the tech side of it. I think you can download 3rd party apps to use more of the technical things. Technically the chip can read everything about the car and Automatic's app barely shows you any of that. I've never had to use the built in crash monitoring, but it's nice knowing it's there in case I'm unable to call for help.
So I've been playing a lot with my 2010 and 2016 Fords, especially involving the camera.
Two different things can be checked, unfortunately both requiring a little computer kmow-how and some parts off Amazon.
Just keeping a quick note, if yours is the same as my 2010, the gear messages should be ID 3B0, with Reverse having a data of 0x01.
If you go with an aftermarket camera, it's entirely possible to make it display on the navigation screen -- any standard composite camera will work.
Yeah, it is fairly nice to have, it gives you all of the same information that the tool that the dealer has for your car. Here is the one I have
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and you will need to go to FORSCAN.org to obtain the free software for it. Super easy and the software essentially walks you through itself. You should not need an extended license for what you are doing.
Here is the link to that doc, you will need an OBDII reader. You can always google how to use Forscan and you can do soooo much to your F150!!
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ForScan Doc:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=815852466
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OBDII Reader:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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The way it was described to me is this: the smart uses an electronically controlled clutch. In order to determine how far to push the clutch in, the system needs to periodically check the thickness of the clutch plate. It does this by a sensor that sometimes gets drunk. If it misreads the depth, it will put too much or too little force on the plate. If it pushes too hard, the system will go into a safety mode to prevent catastrophic failure. And, by safety mode, I mean it stops working. Even if you are driving.
Normally, the system resets itself every few starts. If it has the odd freak-out, it needs to be done manually.
Get an ODB2 reader. Scanners are super cheap.
ANCEL AD410 Enhanced OBD II Vehicle Code Reader Automotive OBD2 Scanner Auto Check Engine Light Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FSNL73/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SE3hDb80M7JKR
There are a couple on amazon I'm thinking about. Would like to keep it under $50.
Deciding between this ANCEL AD310, and this ANCEL AD410. Either one seems to fit my pretty basic needs for a scanner...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FSNL73/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know that's how you feel, but what would you do if you didn't feel that way?
I'd be interested in helping you, if you're interested in pursuing this (I even have a potential business idea on how I'd use this data). Certain luxury manufacturers also let you use the ODB interface to manage advanced settings that are otherwise unavailable.
I searched GitHub for "ODBLink" (a popular scanner tool) to see what scripts/programs users have wrote, and found a Python program with a reference to a useful spreadsheet for how we could get started:
# Thanks to Brian Batista for the use of the CANBUS guide spreadsheet.So, I searched Google for "canbus spreadsheet", and found this Google Spreadsheet: CANBUS Fleunze SE (top non-ad search result)
Similarly, for Ford Mustang cars, I did some digging and found Ford has opensourced their OpenXC tool:
>OPENXC
>
>While UDS is a closed protocol, researchers at Ford have been working on creating an open platform for interfacing with vehicles. The result is the OpenXC Platform. OpenXC provides a protocol to read data from Ford vehicles over CAN.
>
>To use it, you’ll need a vehicle interface. A chipKIT can be used with Ford’s open source firmware. Alternatively, you can buy a prebuilt solution from CrossChasm. Once the vehicle interface is up and running, you can access data from the Android and Python APIs. We’ve featured a few OpenXC hacks on Hackaday in the past.
>
>It’s great to see an automotive manufacturer embracing open source, and hopefully Ford continues to work on the platform. That being said, the OpenXC protocol is read only, and limited to a fairly small set of messages.
The conventional wisdom on ClubLexus.com is "If you're working on a Lexus or Toyota, nothing can beat Toyota Techstream." However, Carista comes close. Carista focuses on hidden features ("dealer-only settings") like daytime running lights. They provide similar "dealer-only settings" for other makes and models.
I personally use an expensive ODB-II reader, because:
I personally use BlueDriver ODB-II reader, instead of Carista, because:
>What are ENHANCED diagnostics?
>
>All vehicles with an OBD2 port are required to output basic information when the Check Engine Light comes on. However, a lot of important information (such as ABS, Airbag, Climate Control, etc.) is left behind by other scan tools and code readers. [...] BlueDriver gives you the complete set of diagnostics on a wide range of manufacturers.
However, the downside to BlueDriver is:
>Bluetooth pairing is incredibly simple — sometimes too simple for its own good. Without a four-digit PIN to offer a bare minimum of protection, anyone within a 30-foot range could connect to BlueDriver dongle. If the dongle is not currently connected to a phone, the process will be trivial, and even if the dongle is connected, it's sometimes possible to prioritize a new connection over an existing one.
In terms of "fun projects", I was thinking it'd be cool to use ODB-II Mode 6 and visualize, in real-time, Scotty Kilmer's "How to Get Your Car to Pass the Emissions Test (Life Hack)".
that is an important distinction, I meant when I turn the engine on, I have this not sure if it can scan the oil indicator. subaru calls the light "Engine low oil level warning indicator" not sure if that makes a difference.
If you were throwing a code your check engine light would be on (unless you or the previous owner disabled it)
I would NOT take my truck into a shop to get it plugged into a scanner, I’m pretty sure they charge like $60 CAD...
I have this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725Q6X7B/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?psc=1
It’s cheap Chinese crap, but for the amount you use it, and unless you’re a mechanic, it’s all you need.
I don't know about Canada, but in the US lemon laws only cover new car purchases. Is the car under warranty? Next time the check engine light comes on I would either take it to an independent shop to diagnose the issue or buy one of these. It will let you pull up the code and you can figure out what is causing the problem. It could be something as minor as a sensor going bad, or it could being a serious issue. Try not to stress out too much until you actually know what is going on.
You'll want to start with a code scanner like this: https://www.amazon.com/OBD2-Scanner-Professional-Diagnostic-Effortlessly/dp/B0725Q6X7B/
Also, I believe you can take your cavalier to places like Autozone and they will scan your car and give you the error codes for free. Get any error codes listed from the computer and start fixing what is wrong there, or post them up here and we can help.
Thanks for demystifying that for me. Glad to hear I don’t have to shell out $40 for what I need. Unfortunately, all the cheapest devices are Android or WiFi only. Thinking of going with this one:
Veepeak OBDCheck BLE Bluetooth 4.0 OBD2 Scanner Adapter for iOS & Android, Car Check Engine Light Diagnostic Trouble Code Reader Supports Year 1996 and Newer Vehicles in the US https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zn4dAbECCHCVE
I have a nice standalone unit but I’m actually looking at this Bluetooth one for my iPhone. They make an Android version also. I’m still researching it because I want to make sure I can erase a code, but I like the idea that the software is always updated.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_kyyYAb8W9GA8Z
First, the electrical hum you mention is just electrical noise that often comes from cheap phone chargers and aux cords and in no way related to this or any other problem.
By external temperature gauge do you mean the ambient temperature sensor and display? That just tells you the temp outside but if heat is building under the hood while not moving it may show a warmer temperature. Other than that this tells you nothing about what is happening inside the engine.
Have you checked the coolant level? Only open the cap when the car is completely cool but you can usually check by looking at the reservoir and don't need to remove the cap.
A shop or someone with a scan tool can read the coolant temperature the ECU is seeing. Generally, if the overheat light comes on the car is overheating and you may be doing significant damage by continuing to allow this to occur.
My primary suspect based on your description is the cooling fan behind the radiator isn't running since you only mention a problem when not moving. Strangely, the fan normally runs at higher speed and on a different circuit when the A/C is on but yours may be completely failed. The other possibility is a failing water pump that isn't moving enough coolant at idle.
Please don't continue to drive like this, it will only end badly.
If you want the cheapest way to determine engine temp without paying someone else you could by an OBD2 reader that connects to a smartphone like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=psdc_15707381_t2_B07JFRFJG6
You install an app on your phone and can make it display live temperature data on your screen while driving; just make sure your phone is compatible or find one like this that is.
This one?
amazon link
I bought the veepeak one.
Veepeak OBDCheck BLE OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner Auto OBD II Diagnostic Tool Compatible with iOS & Android, Bluetooth 4.0 Car Check Engine Light Code Reader Supports 1996 and Newer Vehicles in The US https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6yqQBbHYKVRN7
Live gauges, and accurate error readings. Sorry for weird link, I’m on mobile.
I'm on iOS so it requires a low power bluetooth adapter so I got this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XKQQQW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then I bought OBD Fusion off the App Store.
If you run Android then this will work and is cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_7?crid=29Y0KSBTGU65U&keywords=veepeak+obd2&qid=1573319560&s=automotive&sprefix=veepeak%2Cautomotive%2C211&sr=1-7
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Reader-Diagnostics-Devices/dp/B078K54MT5/ref=sr_1_3?crid=31O5121TTE98A&keywords=ios+obdii+bluetooth&qid=1564146769&s=gateway&sprefix=ios+OBII%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-3
I have that one but for Android and its been able to pull codes off any car I plugged it into. You will have to use an app on your phone as well to have an interface with it. I recommend Torque Pro.
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Reader-Diagnostics-Devices/dp/B078K54MT5/
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS these are what my smog guy uses for quick engine control diagnostics. he has more advanced scan tools that i have.. this is still what he reaches for first.
i just bought this one on amazon to get a taste. BAFX Products - WiFi OBD2 / OBDII... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078K54MT5
pretty amazing for less than $20
I bought this reader in 2013. It lists "Canada - All Vehicles 1998 & Newer" as compatible. It also says "For Android & Windows ONLY!"
On my phone I use the paid version of the Torque app. Try the linked (free) version first.
Works great for my 2010 Fusion here in the US.
Edit: Looks like they have an iOS reader now as well. No idea what app to use though.
BAFX's Country Compliance List
I have the android version of this one, reads everything I want to with no issues.
For BimmerCode to work properly, you need to get a "good" BT OBD2 reader. I have the OBDLink MX+ (https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=obdlink+mx%2B&qid=1564401419&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1) which is $79.99. However, it's worth it imho as it's super fast when reading values (which is a must when you start adding upgrades to your engine). You *could* go with a cheaper one, but it's a crap shoot if the programming will take or not due to the cheaper ones dropping packets and such. This is very much a "you get what you pay for" situation.
As for what to code, at a minimum I do comfort access close (you push and hold the door handle button or the keyfob lock to have all the windows close automatically), turn off "corrected" speed on the digital and analog speedometers, 3 blinks for turn signals and enable the double-blink style hazard lights. I also tweak all the welcome lights to be "soft on". I don't have the navigation package in my wife's R60, so I don't know what I would do there or what is available in BimmerCode.
Another thing to learn would be the expert codes. You can find a LOT of information over on NAM: https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/3rd-gen-faqs/321561-bimmercode-app.html A lot of the codes there only apply to the 3rd gen Minis, but there are a lot that also apply to the 2nd gens.
$80 and a phone/tablet to display the data. It should provide the same data on all gen5 models, mine is 19 Off Road Premium
https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=BRY0BYOGVZ6J&keywords=obdlink+mx%2B&qid=1569284811&s=gateway&sprefix=Obdlink+mx%2B%2Caps%2C187&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySlRIUjZFWUgzMFJPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzU1MTA1M0ZYWDlQQTk2UDdHMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTI2MzM0M1JDWVJSNkJDNDhRWSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
what sort of 'fancy scanner'? I have a cheapo bluetooth model, which clears the code alright, but doesn't give me the TPS voltage... here is another one that claims to to GM-LAN and ABS ...and off to another topic I go, sorry, maybe I should repost. ;p https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6
Good to know about the charge time, I was thinking I would stick around the charger for closer to an hour anyway since my destination has no level 3 chargers nearby.
I found myself in a bit of analysis paralysis in picking an OBD2 dongle that will work with my Bolt. I found myself stressing over stories of dead 12v batteries and error codes.
I was thinking about this green scantool but then I noticed this black scantool mx+ explicitly says " plus advanced Ford & GM vehicle networks (MS-CAN and SW-CAN) ". I kind of got stuck trying to discern the difference and what one I would need.