(Part 3) Best car audio & video installation products according to redditors

An overengineered car stereo fuse holder like this one

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Line-Fuse-Holder/dp/B01CT4ZJHS

Nice! I just picked up an 06' Sedan 6 speed. These cars are pretty fucking quick haha.

Mine has 247k though. She is rust free and the previous owner took fantastic care of it.

You can swap the rear speakers for something a bit better and it takes 10 minutes. I threw in some Alpine Type S 6x9's and the system sounds fantastic. Literally all you need is the speakers and the below adapters. I love music, so this was the easiest way to add some clarity to the existing system.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEPJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Build quality on this gen (7.5) is very hard to beat, Honda kinda of went cheap on the 8th and newer gens from what I gather. I am more than pleased with my 1/4 million mile baby.

Have fun!

So, I have the 2019, but these speakers are compatible with anything that supports a 3.5" speaker on the dashboard.

---

That said, the stock tweeters are shite. I got a pair of JBL CLUB 3020 to fill in some of the missing mid-high. It's like a night and day difference.

The stock speakers accepts a proprietary audio plug that's a white box with 4 cables going back into the dash. The new JBLs are just bare connectors because they are universal. I didn't want to cut the wires, so I found an adapter here.

It was very easy to install:

• Pop off the speaker grill with a credit card.
  
• Unscrew the stock speaker
  
• Unplug the stock speaker
  
• Plug the adapter into the wires coming from the car
  
• Plug the wires from the adapter into the new speakers
  
• Screw in the new speakers
  
• Replace the speaker grill
  
  Took about 10 minutes each speaker.
  
  ---
  
  I intend to rip off the doors are replace those 6.5" speakers with 4 JBL CLUB 6520 speakers.
  
  Even without an amp the better quality speaker makes a world of difference.
  
  I will probably add an amp and a sub at some point, but that's down the road. I'll post again when I replace the door speakers and I'd be happy to assist if you are doing the same with a 2019.

for the rear I switched it out withthese.
for the front
and
these adapters are great if you don't want to slice the cables.

also. you will need a spacer for the Rockford.

I would recommend the Polk Audio over the Rockford.

Edit: and they work with the stock head unit without an Amp. I am an amateur so I didn't want to replace the stock radio/dash .
and too lazy to add an amp.

Good luck!

That thing has 65% 1& 2 star reviews and an overall rating of 2.3 out of 5 stars on US Amazon.

Analog is the cheapest, fastest, and easiest.

Get a 3.5mm to RCA (stereo) Y adapter in the length you need:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/

Problem is, you may get buzzing from poor grounding, in which case you'll need to "lift" (isolate) the ground loop -

Plug something like this in-line, after the Y adapter, before the stereo AUX RCA inputs -

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Ground-Isolator-Noise-Filter/dp/B077Y5DLBB/

or a newer type (plug this into the computer first, then that Y adapter):

https://www.amazon.com/REIIE-Ground-Isolator-Bluetooth-System/dp/B01JUOWB2Q/

Personally I'd spend a few more bucks and do this:

• Clarion Mobile Electronics CZ CD/MP3/WMA Receiver : http://amzn.com/B006WVX9R2
  
• Rockford Fosgate Prime Full Range 3-Way Coaxial Speaker - Set of 2: http://amzn.com/B00BF6HVGY
  
  I just figure if you're pulling your stock head unit out you might as well have bluetooth and other modern functions in it.
  
  Heck, you'll probably see a good change in sound just switching the speakers out. If they are the stock speakers in there they are cheap 16 year old cones. To make the speaker install a snap, just use these:
  
  
• Metra 72-5600 Speaker Adapter for Select Ford Vehicles
  http://amzn.com/B001OAB6BW

Then why not use a solar window fan on one window and screens on the rest to force in fresh air? They charge up then run on battery power at night.

I upgraded to a Pioneer Nav unit in the fall and I believe that this USB Retention Harness Is what I have to retain the USB in the armrest. Unfortunately, Android Auto didn't work between the Pioneer unit and the S7 for some reason but the USB does work.
Side note: The OEM backup camera also works with using the Axxess AX-SUB28SWC but I recall the wiring was changed in the 2017 so it wasn't color for color as original wiring diagrams went.

Subs are easy to install, just find a route from the battery back to where the subs reside. Older cars generally make this easier. The most common way is to just go:

Battery -> route through firewall (trickiest part) -> route under carpet/trim/seats to back -> hook up to amp

what you will need:

Subs

Amp

Easy: buy a kit

Less Easy : go to lowes/menards/Ho E Depot and buy wire, connectors n' shit, plus order RCA cables n' other shit.

steps:

1. route power wire back from battery.
   
   
2. route RCA cables + remote wire (a wire that is powered on when the radio is on either explicitly labeled, RTF radio M, or power antenna works) from radio to subs. People say to not route this with the power wire because of interference which is good EM practice but I never do because I'm lazy.
   
   
3. connect everything to amp, and amp to subs, I know RockfordFosgate used to have has a good AMP to SUB wiring diagram thingy.
   
   
4. Find a place that a bolt will fit in the ass of the car, scratch the hell out of the paint down to the bare metal, then scratch some more, then sand it and attach the ground cable.
   
   
   
5. plug in fuse, you didn't put this in first did you? of course not that would be stupid.
   
   
6. Optional: have a capacitor so you have a cool led that tells you your battery voltage, so you can watch as you occasionally make it cry.
   
   Edit: If you have any questions I will certainly try to help if you ask, but as always I am not a lawyer and the above post is not intended as legal advice in your country of origin.

Buy a new coil wiring harness. They're notorious for failing. I bought some plastic wiring tubing (like this) at the local WMart and wrapped it in electrical tape before installing the new one (Hyundai Accent, but basically the same car). You can buy OEM parts on EBay direct from Korea fairly cheap.

The tires can only be slightly different in width and depth, not actual rim size. For example, you can't put a tire that's 185/55/14 on a 185/55/15 wheel. You can slightly vary the width and depth by putting say a 195/55/14 on a 185/45/14 wheel. Obviously not recommended though.

Next as far as your radio goes, any radio will fit. You just need the correct installation kit. Want a 7 inch touchscreen navigation unit? Buy a double din installation kit and radio wiring harness. If you want your standard run of the mill small aftermarket stereo, get a single din kit. Amazon is your friend.

Metra 70-1858 Radio Wiring Harness For GM 88-05 Harness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEX8W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3-LOub00TY0AV

Metra 99-4544 Dash Kit For GM Multikitwith Eq Opt 82-04 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000281X60/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_DaMOub0ETARQM


Edit: looks like the 92 century only has a single din hole. So scratch the double din idea.

Metra 70-7303 (wiring harness)

Metra 40-KI11 (AM/FM radio adapter)

Axxess ASWC-1 (steering wheel control)

I just replaced mine in my 06 without the Bose system. The removal and reinstallation is pretty straight forward. I do want to go back with some sound deadening material or a foam baffel to see if there is any better bass response.

I went with these "Rockford R168X2 Prime 6 x 8 Inches Full Range Coaxial Speaker, Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HVGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bCSfTbRya1zVA "
I also used​ these so I wouldn't have to cut the stock harness
" Metra 72-5600 Ford Speaker Harness 1998-UP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OAB6BW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_HhPhN5qVTdyWy "
You will need to crimp on new connectors for the speakers as the POS and neg are on the wrong sides.

Over all the speakers are on par with stock imo. They are a 50 rms speaker and the stock ones are 25 rms.

I'm sorry I worded the question wrong, could I get a GM interface without Onstar? Like would everything else work fine except Onstar? I don't really need it. Say, something like this or this?

This seems like a good option! Set it on your dash to charge or just change the batteries.

The crutchfield guy may have been trying to sell you a LOC that corrects the bass roll off some cars experience. I myself bought an LC2i converter for that reason, but you may not need it. It looks like that amp accepts speaker level inputs so you may be able to skip the LOC altogether and just tap into your rear speakers. Up to you though the LOC is so cheap you may as well use it. If you notice the bass is decreasing as you increase volume you might look into buying a more expensive LOC that fixes the signal. I would try out the bass package as is first before I did that though.


You will need RCA cables to run from the LOC to the amp. Amazon has some for like 8 bucks. For the amp wiring kit, I got one for 20 dollars on Amazon.


InstallGear 4 Gauge Complete Amp Kit Amplifier Installation Wiring Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1SS2ZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L1q8Ab9TTW5NK


This is 4 gauge wire which is more than enough for your amp. If you prefer 8 gauge you can find a similarly priced set on Amazon. Everything else looks fine. Any reason you went with the MTX?

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-107118-1-Inch-10-Feet-Flexible/dp/B001114AO4

Thanks man after following ur advice, I found that the trailing edge did not give any voltage feedback but the side closest to the battery did give feedback. Running a continuity test I further found out the fuse failed. Whats interesting is that the fuse looks intact from just looking at it. The fuse is a AGU 80 amp 5AG80A
Saying that I have found two problems with my installation that were the likely causes of my issues. 1)I had left the rubber inside the terminal of one end on the fuse holder. There is now a black singe mark inside the terminal. 2) The fuse is a AGU 80 amp fuse, after doing some research I have found that the recommended fuse for 4 gauge wire is 125 Amps. I have went out and bought a new inline fuse holder with a ANL 150 amp fuse.

Thanks for the advice.

That plug is for USB, you can use this adapter to plug that into your new head unit's USB port.

The rearview camera is part of the 28-pin adapter, pins 11-13 (I think), check out the thread here. You can use this 28-pin adapter which includes the 12v to 6v converter to plug in the rear-view camera to an aftermarket head unit instead of buying the add-on unit.

To add to what paxtana said, if you plan on riding in wet conditions I'd recommend using some waterproof heat shrink connectors like these. In my experience, the silicone covers that come preinstalled on those connectors don't really hold up long term in wet conditions and can sometimes vibrate loose to expose the metal they're supposed to protect. I've personally used these on all of my builds and have never had them fail.

They are all over Amazon and work surprisingly well. I was skeptical at first, but as long as you make a decent mechanical connection with the wires first they work great.

Buy a single DIN aftermarket radio of your liking.

Buy a single DIN faceplate adapter like this.

Buy a wire harness that will plug into the factory radio connector like this. This will prevent you from hacking the factory wiring to connect it to the aftermarket radio harness.

It may require you to buy this adapter for the factory attenna connect into the aftermarket radio.

Install is pretty easy, search google for walkthroughs if you get stuck.

Does your car have steering wheel controls? If so, you'll lose that feature, there's ways to make it work but they're pricey.

Looks like a pretty straight forward swap. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmJwXa9Bkgc

A quick google search and I found the adapters needed to it's plug and play, but do you own verification.
Speaker Mount: https://www.amazon.com/Mosuch-Plastic-Speaker-Adapter-Highlander/dp/B007ZQGZWO
Wire harness: https://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-8104-Speaker-Connector-Vehicles/dp/B0002BBP7Y

As for pro installers. I used to work for CarSpa like 15 years ago in Arlington. They were good back then, not sure about now. They used to do almost all the dealership installs around the area. The boss was a bit of a douche, Yelp agrees apparently.

These are a godsend when working with laptops and other mains-powered portable devices (like phones, iPods/MP3 players etc plugged into noisy chargers) - I keep about 6 in my stage audio cabling kit.

Ground loop isolation transformers. Example on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Radio-Shack-270-054-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B002YGM5D8/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1411741856&sr=8-14&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

I have some these under my desk and behind my monitors that i run cables through

Just buy a wiring harness adapter and replace it with whatever tweeter you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-7800-Connector-Harnesses-Vehicles/dp/B0002BEPJY/ref=asc_df_B0002BEPJY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807586683&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=402812035962977768&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007783&hvtargid=pla-434101762016&psc=1

I had the exact same issue with my monitors and it turned out to be a ground loop problem. Bought myself one of these and it completely fixed the issue.

Just read through your post again and a few more things came to mind:

All Deepminds have balanced outputs - make sure you are using a proper 3-conductor (TRS->XLR) cable to connect to your UMC

Check your gain-staging. you want to make sure your source signal is nice and high so you aren't raising the noise floor by amplifying it at your interface so your deepmind ought to be turned up quite high and your UMC should not have the gains cranked if possible. Even if you have some bus noise, proper gain staging can sometimes reduce it to the point where you can barely perceive it.

You mention that the noise changes with keyboard action which is a sure-fire indication it's bus noise from your computer. Try connecting your UMC to different usb ports to see if there is a difference. On my setup the high speed (blue) usb ports seem to be isolated better than the others.

Make sure your phantom power (+48v) on the UMC is turned off)

Check the USB cable that you are using to connect your UMC to the computer: some cables have a ferrite core, otherwise know as a ferrite bead or "choke" that looks like a little cylinder on the cable: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead This is meant to keep high frequency noise from messing up the USB signal and it shouldn't effect any of the frequencies that are in the audible range but just in case it's encouraging the ground to go one way or the other try a cable both with and without to see if it helps.

The MicroHD will most likely solve the problem but so will these for a lower price:

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Ground-Isolator-Noise-Filter/dp/B077Y5DLBB/ref=sr_1_6?crid=KUPCV1LLYM77

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HKATOPS-3-5mm-RCA-Ground-Loop-Isolator-AudioStereo-Hum-Noise-Filter-Audio-W27/202731548848

*note that when using these you will no longer have a balanced signal so keep your cable runs short, and you will have to get RCA->TRS adaptors to connect it between your synth and your interface.

Transformer isolators take an unbalanced signal in one side and induce the same signal into the output without any physical connection between the wires - so you immediately get rid of any DC bias and the system has to find a different route to ground (usually through the chassis or the ground pin on your power supply as it was intended)

If, down the line, you want to get a real swiss-army-knife isolator box I suggest:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mackie-MDB-2P-Stereo-Passive-Direct-Box-DI-Box/392059765174

...or something similar. A good passive DI will let you attenuate the signal and lift the ground so you can use them to solve a lot of different issues.

I just bought a '14 GT which is essentially the same internals as the 2011. I went with these Polk DB571's. Took me about an hour and a half to install, but it all went flawlessly and they sound incredibly better than the stock crap that came with it. Sync calls now sound clear and nice whereas before they were muffled and flat. They do not need an amplifier and they are so much better than stock.

Also make sure you buy 2 of these as well so you don't have to do any fancy wiring. Each pack comes with 2. And also a set of these so you don't damage anything taking the doors and trunk shelf apart.

Here is a crazy useful video on how to install them.

Total cost for two sets of speakers and tools to install them, about $130. This is of course assuming you have a ratchet set available.

Hey, no problems. Those are what I purchased, yes. Along with this wiring adapter (which is easier than easy to install and should be included with the purchase on Crutchfield).

Speakers from Amazon

Wiring adapter from Amazon

It all comes out to about the same price (about $5 cheaper on Amazon), but Amazon's got Prime shipping, so that's why I'd recommend going there.

Also it's worth noting that I had to send them back in because one of the speakers started to crackle, so watch out for that within the first couple weeks. I'll be buying them again though soon, since they sounded pretty good for the price.

Hope this helps.

All you need is one of these. You don't have to remove any cable. It goes between your current cables and your receiver.

Or one of these. - Same thing, different store.

I personally use this one, but it requires you to also buy some of these adapters.

All of these solutions are the same thing, but through different stores.

Do you recommend a DI Box over a ground-loop isolator? From my understanding, they'll both do the same function in different manners. Feel free to correct me.

http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGN20-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B002ZRQ3PW/

Also: Another strange problem I'm having is that whenever I play videos (even on mute), a weird (oscillating?) noise comes out of the speakers for a bit. It eventually disappears, but I'd like to avoid it.

Line Output Convertor + 2 Channel amp + amp kit

or if you wanted something more name brand something like THIS Cheap stuff still, but better than the dual crap

I see it for like $70. However, this should be just fine.

After some searching I found Lanzar HTG237 1,000-Watt 2-Channel on amazon. With that amp an 8awg kit will work.
What kind of car are you putting it into?

It most certainly does work with your vehicle. However it's going to be overkill. Without steering wheel controls, just use the Axxess GMRC-01. WAYY cheaper. It doesn't give you all the OBD outputs that you'd use to connect a double din touch-screen, like parking brake, reverse signal for back up cam, etc. So if you're just installing a basic stereo, the GMRC is the way to go.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001XOBU4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509800672&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gmrc-01&dpPl=1&dpID=31KLBpZMsCL&ref=plSrch

/r/CarAV is better suited for audio questions. To answer your question though, no your car requires 6x9 speakers. You'll need a speaker harness and bracket for a plug and play solution.

Hi, thank you for the tutorial. I would like change speaker but I can't find adapter in amazon Italy. They have specific technical name because in your amazon link I didn't found?

I wanted to give an update.

• ROCKFORD FOSGATE 500x1
  
  
• 2 pairs of these speakers [KICKER 6.5" CS65]
  (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-cs65-6-1-2-coaxial-speakers-with-polypropylene-woofer-cones-pair-black/7708042.p?skuId=7708042)
  
  
• KICKER COMPS 10" SUB 4OHM
  
  
• 4 GA WIRING KIT
  
  
• PAC THING TO NOT HAVE TO SPLICE
  
  I'll be running the stock radio so I'm assuming everything installation related should be pretty self explanatory.
  
  Am I missing anything?

Update 2: I have found the cause of the problem and what was needed to fix. I will post below what i found so if anyone else gets this, they can fix it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnN31snqR9o
Everything needed to fix this in this video. It was a grounding problem caused by a crappy PC. This little box eliminated all static noises, and has actually increased audio quality. With this i also bought a 2x1/4" jack to RCA cable, as that is the type of input my monitors take, all equipment used listed here: (UK Amazon)
Ground Loop Isolator: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522861082&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+loop&dpID=413Ja6ofpeL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
2x1/4" Jack to RCA: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006H0E4YA/ref=psdc_407727031_t2_B004EBKV1Y
(Amazon.com products):
Ground Loop Isolator: https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Ground-Isolator-Noise-Filter/dp/B077Y5DLBB/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522861210&sr=8-2&keywords=ground+loop+isolator
2x1/4" Jack to RCA: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O19/ref=psdc_3236443011_t1_B004NCYVY2

speaker adapter rings $12 pair x2

speaker wiring adapters pair $6 x2

radio harness with amp bypass $35

JBL P660c 6.5" component set for font doors $130

rockford punch coaxial for rear fill $60

knu konceptz 4awg amp kit $35
usually i wouldn't recommend copper clad aluminum but in your case it'll be fine

dash kit $40

sony headunit $110
several options for this, but this is a decent unit.

precision power sub amp $110

soundqubed hds210 10" sub dual 4ohm $105

belva .77cuft sealed 10" prefab enclosure $37

I am over budget here, but this was quick and dirty. there are a couple areas to save money. biggest being buying a sub and amp use on craigslist. if that is possible and gets you under budget, id recommend just about everything else as is.

I just purchased this wiring kit - Rockford Fosgate 8 AWG Amplifier Install Kit with Interconnect

Am I totally screwed with the amp I have or will I get by for awhile? I thoroughly believed in all the reviews I read on Amazon; the Boss equipment was recommended with the MTX subs and the reviews said they worked fine together.

This is my build which I posted on Facebook a few days ago, before I add subwoofer, so far less than $500, I'm still building it ..

--

Tonight's window-shopping shopping cart for my first audio upgrade from 2016 WRX base OEM audio. Includes amp, speakers, and noise suppression. This seems like a really good starter build for less than $500. Looking for feedback.

DS18 SLC1800.4 DS18 Select SLC-1800.4 1,800 Watts Four (4) Channels Amplifier
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDI0D3K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00IDI0D3K&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=TLRSTER62FWVZ4YI

• affordable clean wattage
  
• 80 watts per channel matches customer recommendations for the Alpine speakers
  
  Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Component Car Speakers + Alpine Sps-610 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Coaxial Car Speakers
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059AK2T0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0059AK2T0&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=PXNDF7S6RPBZPEKP
  
  Rockford RFK4X 4 AWG Complete Amplifier Install Kit
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012BYOSK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0012BYOSK&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=2GAGDGGKMRWMHURO
  
  Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector for Select Toyota Vehicles
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBP7Y/ref=as_li_tl…
  
  50 Sq Ft Noico Self-adhesive Foil & Butyl Mat 50 Mil Automotive Sound Deadening Insulation for Cars & Truck (Audio Dampening & Deadener Installation)
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URR4O5I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00URR4O5I&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=Q7FJEOPI6QOBHJKL
  
  Noico Metal Barrel Roller Installation Tool
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015WJH4ZW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B015WJH4ZW&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=WNEQ67NXUPTXMY4T
  
  BAFX Products® - Decibel Meter / Sound Level Reader - W/ Battery
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECCZWWI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00ECCZWWI&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=UV3UKNSI24GV7E3Q
  
  
• to measure the noise levels before and after installing the Noico mat
  
  Dayton Audio iMM-6 Calibrated Measurement Microphone for iPhone, iPad Tablet and Android
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADR2B84/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00ADR2B84&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=XCRDPQNFVK6NFAAN
  
  
• to calibrate the HU EQ after the amp and speakers are installed

cable manager

I stand it vertically without the stand and it's very stable. Only 3 cables connected (power, LAN, HDMI) and all wrapped into single tube via cable manager. Use proper color tube to merge into your desk color.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD8627K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the harness i used, has the reverse 6v signal already to go. all you need us usb retention https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJ4KVQ6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

then the speaker harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQJ8/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and lastly the antenna harness https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VYWSES/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

these were all the things i used to wire in my kenwood. besides the tool to keep steering wheel buttons https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4W10XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the autoharnesshouse harness makes it easy to use the maestro by the way. hope this helped. i have a 2017 wrx by the way so i dont know if there is a difference with 2015 and the new 2018+s

1. You'll need more than 5' of wire as you'll have to get some for both side and 5' is really not that much even if that it comes in a pair. Get something like this speaker wire spool $10
   
2. I think you're fine with that amp as long as you're using analog sources. If not you'll need to add in a DAC. What are you sources going to be? I also like an amp with some tone controls.

Just get some Split wire loom that cars use to hide the wires. Lots of different sizes, fairly cheap and easy to use. Kitten can chew on it without harming the wires hiding inside. As an added bonus cats tend to hate the taste.

I usually use the wire that comes with the battery pack --- if I need more or longer runs... I have a spool of this

I too have read the horror stories of excessively destructive rabbits. I've yet to really encounter one, however. Supervision and some thoughtful prevention seems to go a long way, along with providing an outlet for their natural behaviors.

One of our bunnies did nibble on my laptop adapter, but really, that's my own damn fault for not supervising the situation more closely. (I'd fallen asleep on the couch watching netflix.) Most of our other cords that they have access to have been run through split loom tubing.

The supervision aspect is easily the most important part- figure out what sort of naughty tendencies your rabbit has and prevent them from being able to act on those tendencies. Use taste deterrent sprays to keep them from chewing on inappropriate things and give them things that they CAN chew on. If they're digging at the carpet, give them somewhere appropriate to dig, etc. It's a little bit like having a perpetual puppy- make wrong decisions difficult/uncomfortable and make the right decision rewarding.

This is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT02PO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Best of luck! I'm not sure about '06s, but mine required these adapters. Ford used some kind of plug for the factory speakers, and I needed that in order to avoid cutting the door harness.

This is what I used

5 ch amp

Front Speakers

Subwoofer

Head Unit

Sub Box

HU Interface

Antenna adapter

Dash Kit

Amp install kit

This assumes you don't have bose or onstar, and if any of this is confusing I'd give Sonic Electronix or Crutchfield a call to make sure you get the right stuff for your head unit. I would bridge channels 1-4 into just your front speakers, leave the rear stock and powered by the hu for now.

The above is ~500. The next dollars I would spend would be for this

Subwoofer box is 10 inches high 12 inches deep so check for clearance

Will this work?

So basically the headunit came with an adapter and I had to buy the metra adapter specific to the car. I had to solder these two together. The wires are the same color so it’s very easy. Some people splice the wires right on the car, but I didn’t want to modify anything.


adapter I purchased

Thanks. It didnt seem right that it was doing that. These are what I ordered I've used them many times before with no issue. The heater heats up super fast compared to the old one. Like atleast twice as fast which is nice but has me wondering.

You need a line out converter if you still have the factory head unit.


You are limited if you are wanting to buy thru amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Install-Interconnect/dp/B001AV5ZHQ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=8%2Bawg%2Bwiring%2Bkit&qid=1559096898&s=gateway&sr=8-4&th=1

Also if you don't want to splice the cable harness, this works as a plug and play harness

I was thinking of making my old holder with wood as the plastic ones seem to melt for some people. I've never had that happen. I was looking at install gear ones already. Would it be better to get one that needs terminal ring or just the screw in type? This is the one I was considering https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Line-Fuse-Holder/dp/B01CT4ZJHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549041992&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=anl+fuse+holder

Yep i think that’s what i’m going to get. Was recommended a ground loop isolator

(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y5DLBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_5HazCbG8DWADK)

If that fails i found this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01BYIP4IE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lKazCbDZ83MYT

Do you think that could solve the issues as that has two balanced TRS outputs.

Just a lot to spend on something that might not solve my problem

Wow small world...what subs do you have in it? I'm putting 1 sundown sa12 in. Your subs will give me indication of how bad my rattle might be.
Random questions when you installed: Does our car have a stock amplifier?
What wiring harness did you use for your radio? https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-7303-Harness-Hyundai-Infinity/dp/B001JT02PO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499915423&sr=8-2&keywords=kia+forte+wiring+harness I bought this one but I'm unsure if it is the right one.

By the way I found the kit I bought.. Comparing it to what you've told me, it sucks lol.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002VM8RU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_KzrbzbR453S2T

Try this or get different cables to use this, because that works fine for me.

That looks like it'll fix the problem! Wondering if it's just a basic Isolator Transformer, or if it has some additional stuff (filtering/processing) to handle other noises. Was considering getting something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YGM5D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3gGgzb4TBWVH7 which looks to be just the basic isolator.

Looks like I have some options to try now, thanks!

I think I will go with this because it has what I need and is cheapest do you think it is okay?

or even something as simple as some wire tubing would clean it up:

https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-107118-1-Inch-10-Feet-Flexible/dp/B001114AO4?sa-no-redirect=1

Yes I got an adapter that allows me to use the center consoles USB port. Axxess AX-SUBUSB2 USB Retention... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DJ4KVQ6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

if it helps i have this 4 guage currently running to the sub: https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Complete-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B01N1SS2ZA/ and have this 10 guage: https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Black-Power-Ground/dp/B01NBE1YQ4 . wiring plan is something like this: https://i.imgur.com/SKKeeVB.png

Those are pretty cool, but fairly expensive. For seated experiences, a decent bass shaker and amp can be installed into most chairs for around $100.

This is everything I bought for my setup, and it's great for Driveclub, Eve, and Rigs:


Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p2hvyb1DQKT6T

AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z2hvybK1X2MTF

Pyle PSC1250 12-Gauge, 50 feet Spool of High Quality Speaker Zip Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZX8N44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G3hvyb889SGZP

Belkin Speaker and Headphone Splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067RC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b4hvybN63W7CQ

StarTech.com MU15MMS 15 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G3WCNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z4hvyb7PS049X

The cheapest way to go would be to run this cable from the headphone jack on your PC to this amp. From there, run this wire to this subwoofer. Then use more speaker wire to connect the Hi-Level Output on the subwoofer to these bookshelves.

It will sound pretty good, and fit your budget pretty much exactly. It's stereo, but I don't know of a good 5.1 setup that would fit your budget.

Be warned: you WILL eventually want to upgrade every piece of this. But for your budget, for right now, this will sound good.

I would actually get these: (Real 18AWG 43x2pcs Strands) 10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable 12V 5A Male & Female + 10 Pairs DC Power Jack Plug Adapter Connector for CCTV Home Security Surveillance by MILAPEAK (2.1mm x 5.5mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWQPPTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LmT0Db7G21FSE

I like them better because there are less exposed wires and they are higher quality for pretty much the same price.

To connect a single wire to two things, you split the wire. Take a higher gauge stranded wire, strip it a fair amount (a couple inches) then take half the conductors and twist them together, same with the other half. Use heat shrink so now you’ve got one wire that splits into two wires. Solder additional lengths of wire to your split ends if you need the individual split sections to be longer.

Protip: use these to make soldering wires together dead simple. Kuject 120PCS Solder Seal Wire... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RMRCC3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Buy yourself a heat gun if you think you’ll do this more than ~5 times, it makes soldering wires together a 30 second task, very easy.

These worked for me. nice plug and play

RED WOLF Car Front Door Pro Tweeter Audio Speaker Wiring Harness for 2010-2019 Toyota Corolla, 2008-2013 Toyota Highlander Factory Speaker Replacement Adapter Connector 1 Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZ4CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2HkTDb29AXJEX

https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KMM-BT322-Player-Bluetooth-sirius/dp/B07CNWRC65

• single DIN, bluetooth and aux in, 80 bucks.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/ACOUSTIK-CP-650-Bluetooth-Receiver-Touchscreen/dp/B0792R4D4N/
  
  $169 gets you the cheapest CarPlay I can find. $252 gets you into JVC and Pioneer brands.
  
  2000 model year is before they did retained accessory power, OnStar and other stuff, so your wiring harness is dead simple and cheap:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1858-Radio-Wiring-Harness/dp/B0002BEX8W/ - $6.48 (never cut the factory harness. Always wire the aftermarket radio's harness to a connector that works with the factory.)
  
  and the dash kit to fit either into the space - $15.39
  https://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-4644-Multi-Kit-Shelf-Black/dp/B0007WTFAM/
  
  Add about an hour in the driveway (30 to wire, 30 to install, going slow) and this problem goes away. It's pretty easy. Total:
  
  

• 101.87 for the single-din kenwood, bluetooth and aux-in
  
• 190.87 for the cheapest CarPlay
  
• 273 for Pioneer 1300NEX level CarPlay
  
  The other way to solve this is with a hard-wired FM transmitter, that plugs the FM signal between your antenna and the radio. https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ - $26.95 and the same 30 minutes in the driveway installing, and you'd have aux-in back. They do make a bluetooth version of this, but some people say the bluetooth one doesn't sound very good, and adds pairing issues.
  
  I've installed CarPlay about 10 times (I keep putting different ones in my car, I've had Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer primarily. A Pioneer with wireless CarPlay is going in next.) There's no magic to it, and it does make the experience a lot better, for me.

While people might snub their nose at cheap speakers I have 2 pair of these in my crew cab and they sound just as good over the road noise as speakers that cost twice as much.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1675X2/Rockford-Fosgate-R1675X2.html

I rented a versa for a while when working 400 miles from home and driving back and forth on the weekends. They are not the quietest cars so those subtle nuances people spend extra on can get lost in the "ambiance". Thing I loved about that car is I could set the cruise on 95 and still get 33 mpg, which is triple what I would get driving 80 in my truck.

As far as subs go keep an eye on your local CL or Facebook marketplace for anything in JL Audio's W3 line. I'm going to go pick up a second 12w3v3-4 in a couple days for a bill. You have time to sit and wait until you find a good deal so just keep your eyes peeled.

NVX makes great amps for under $200, if you can't find a monoblock used before your head unit comes out (you should be able to pick a suitable one up using those same resources for $100).

As far as amp wiring kits you're not going to be pulling enough amperage pushing a 250-500w rms subwoofer to necessitate a 4ga ofc wiring kit. 8ga ofc or 4ga CCA will be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N1SS2ZA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

$80 for factory replacement speakers
$20 for wiring kit
$100 for sub
$100 for amp
$500 for head unit

Ok so ill be ordering this one.

Could water have potentially gotten to the fuse and cause it to blow? I saw slightly exposed wire where the fuse connects to the wire via allen key that is now covered with electrical tape.

Try to pick up something like this. Good luck!