(Part 2) Best clamps according to redditors

So sorry for your loss..

A miter saw will be completely adequate. These plans look pretty accessible:

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/making-memorial-flag-case/

Any major home store (Lowe's / Home Depot / Menard's / etc.) should have all the supplies you'd need.

As for wood, Walnut is a nice hardwood that finishes very well. You can order online via Home Depot, this board will be sufficient for the frame.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Builder-s-Choice-1-in-x-4-in-x-6-ft-S4S-Walnut-Board-W16010406X/206201594

The "S4S" designation means that all 4 sides are finished, so you don't have to do any major flattening or smoothing work. Any hardwood will be fine, so cherry or oak will also work.

After you cut the miters for the frame, normal wood glue is fine to hold it together. They show it being held in shape with a strap clamp, which you can find pretty cheaply online or at a store. But it's also fairly straight forward to just make your own with some cardboard / rope -- You don't need a ton of pressure, just enough to hold it in place while the glue sets.

You can have a glass shop cut the glass, otherwise it's not too tough to do it yourself. You can buy panes at hardware stores, and then you can mark the lines, clamp a straight edge to the glass and score it with a cutting tool.

I think the hardest part of that design might be the rabbets for the glass to sit in, but you can chisel those by hand if you're patient. It's slow work but pretty meditative.

I guess you mean the red ones, not the blue ones (since those are at Lowes): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BR75WFW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They've been really handy for all sorts of jigs lately. I am sure you can get better ones, but these are cheap and work well, except it's kind of fiddly to adjust the position of the clamp face.

• $10 vise
  
• $10 mag block

I've had this dumb thing lying around for literally years. I ordered it from McMaster-Carr, who don't stock it any more. You can find similar products on Amazon or places that sell woodworking hardware.

either a toggle clamp or a clamp latch, either of these should put enough force on the lid to create a seal if you've already added rtv and gasket tape

A few ideas to reduce "through the door" noise.

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1. The AcousticDoor - it's a rollup baffle and insulation you install over your door and drop it when you want to make teh shexy. The outer layer is reflective and the interior core is designed to attenuate (block) 30 dB of sound, which translates to approximately 87% of sound, depending on what the sound source is - low and sub frequencies are more difficult to block but the shriller more treble stuff is easy . Figure your screaming wife is approx 90db which is a train whistle at 500ft and this knocks it back to 60 which is an electric toothbrush - now 45 bells is still enough to wake someone (in close proximity - same room) and this is still 15 over that so additional steps may be necessary. See # 2.
   
2. The Muzo - active soundfield generator that cancels and nullifies noise coming through the wall , door, ceiling etc - it uses reverse phase tech to detect and analyze the sound coming through the wall and puts out sound 180 degrees out of phase and cancels out the sound. You put this on the other side of your door , wall or ceiling.
   
3. A cheaper version of the above is to hang a thick comforter on eyehooks or alligator clamps like they use in photo studios to cover the entire door and frame, a thick towel under the door and rainy mood or similar "white noise app" on your cell phone or small bluetooth speaker midway between source of screaming and your door. If necessary, use multiple phones and speakers using different types of rain or white noise about 6 feet before the door - maybe even even some complimentary music as the "final stage" filter but it's all firing directly AT the source. Then pull up netflix on a tablet or other device and fire those speakers directly into the door from a few inches away or even have the device actually leaning on the door so the sound transfers directly to the wood of the door and causes the door itself to vibrate - you don't have to overdo it - just enough so you can hear the "TV" through the door 3-5 feet away on the other side. Should do the trick. If not, add another white noise generator on the other side of the door, run it low so you don't hear it more than 6 feet away but that will kill any residual noise coming through the door.
   
4. If not - just fucking gag her and really do some next level Dr. Demento shit on her - I suggest a Hitachi Magic Wand. On second thought ...yeah - do that anyway. I read in a friends Cosmo mag that the white tip (little bigger than a golf ball) fits PERFECTLY nuzzled just inside and then you ramp it up towards the back of her belly which stims the Gspot and the entire "roof" of the area which also stims the clitoris from behind. Keep it on low until she's screaming into your hand/gag whatever and then flip it to high and hang on.
   
5. Tell her Reddit says HI.

I've seen a few of these built, so I wanted to give them a try. Flew some sorties tonight and pretty happy with them so far. Really nice to have something which can be removed easily when I'm done.

3" Drill Press Vice

Steel brackets

Extreme Velcro

I found this extreme velcro on a whim and it's awesome. It adheres to anything and locks your stick/throttle down tight, yet can still be removed when you are done. I used it to attach my IR clip to the headphones, and it's great there also.

Boards are simply a cheap bamboo cutting board I got at Walmart and sawed in two. Add the bolts and screws and I'd say this whole thing was less than $50.

Maybe be aware the brackets are on the small side, so if you want something that will hang lower, you'll want to look at something different.

Edit: just wanted to say....you'll need to wipe down the vices when you get them. They are covered with a light oil to prevent rusting I'd guess. Take a rag and give them quick wipe all over (the jaws too, they will leave a mark on your desk!)

Is the vice he uses articulating? I find that certain angles are easier to put force behind, so a clamp like this has been helpful. Also, a set of needle files helps when trying to avoid those delicate, precise cuts.

Clamps, give that man some nice K body clamps. http://www.amazon.com/Denali-30-Piece-Bar-Clamp-Assortment/dp/B000NDMO94/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1415313885&sr=8-3&keywords=denali+clamps I have these denali clamps and they work great for the price.

I use spring clamps llike these to hold the layers on the table. I got mine at a hardware store.

All over the place. I've bought a lot from McMasterCarr if you are in the USA (no idea if is in other countries). Also some good stuff on Amazon. Sometimes I just stick random assortments of wire and heat-shrink into the cart when I order from any RC store online that sells it.

http://www.amazon.com/Spacers-Stand-off-Plastic-Accessories-Assortment/dp/B00MMWDYI4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454123548&sr=8-1&keywords=standoffs

I did something similar when I made a chess board table: https://imgur.com/a/nGKF1

I didn't do anything special, but used biscuits to help with alignment, glued it up. A band clamp might be useful: https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71017-Clamp-Quick-Release-Levers/dp/B00NJ023YO

veneer press, vice screw or crank press

> Damn then i linked the wrong one :( I was wanting to post the one w/o bcg or CH. I havent found much info on what constitutes a "premium" barrel, i have read that 416r is long lasting, but CMV is better for accuracy? Im not sure what makes a barrel from one company better than the other when they are made from the same material.

It's not just about the material, manufacturing techniques and experience do make a difference. But whether or not that difference is worth it depends on what purpose(s) this rifle will serve.

> How hard is constructing the barrel/upper without a vice/torque wrench/vice? am i asking for trouble by tryingto do that all myself being a newb?

You could improvise a vice, but you risk crushing your upper. Some aftermarket handguards (e.g. ALG EMR) don't require a torque wrench. They come with a proprietary wrench that has little marks to let you know when it's torqued enough. I built two uppers using this $40 vice bolted to a plank that I sat on for counter-balance weight. Worked just fine. You may also need a pipe of some kind for extended leverage on the wrench.

> Can you recommnd an upper with a good barrel to match the BCM bcg? I want to buy once cry once so to speak.

A BCM upper? But, once again, what are you looking for this rifle to do? You may be able to save a couple hundred bucks on a rifle that will perform as well for your needs and then that money can go to more ammo and practice.

You can also use a pistol grip clamp/spreader. Works like a charm and a lot less likely to break.

Plus you can use it as a clamp as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Yost-M7WW-Rapid-Acting-Working/dp/B00SIQ1DLS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502929894&sr=8-3-spons&keywords=woodworking+vise&psc=1

Its okay - I used it for a few years with no problem

I went with something different when I built my second bench:
https://www.hovartercustomvise.com/product/face-vise-hardware-kit/

So, I don't know if they'll become available again but I bought these for something like $50:

http://www.amazon.com/Denali-30-Piece-Bar-Clamp-Assortment/dp/B000NDMO94/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1418708154&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=denali+30+piece+bar+clamp

and I actually find myself using them more than I do my quick clamps.

Would you mind posting a few pictures of how you did the legs? I have my top section, but stalled out. I also have a couple gramercy holdfasts, this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00012XCCA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-large-front-vise?gclid=CjwKCAjw2cTmBRAVEiwA8YMgzUrHg_vrJ8InPWmbNdVrg9n7lkZsTZ260sqDdXlSAcRanx2tvES_2hoCRg8QAvD_BwE but no good plan on how I'm going to configure them.

I have this one (7” size) from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Yost-Rapid-Acting-Wood-Working/dp/B00SIQ1DLS?th=1&psc=1

It’s $70, under mount, with a quick release lever. It’s excellent and hasn’t let me down. It does everything I need and an excellent value. The quick release lever is a must and makes things much easier. Sure I’d love those awesome wooden vises that are the whole leg of the bench, or have the big wheels, but I also don’t want to spend hundreds.

I think I had to buy my own mounting bolts. I used about 9-10” pieces of oak to make wooden jaws (3/4” piece on the inside, 2 glued up 3/4” pieces on the outside - it’s just what some bench plan told me to do because you can then drill bench dog holes in the outside part but I haven’t done that yet) and just countersunk screws through the wood pieces into the metal jaws. Then I planed the top of the wood jaws flush with the bench top.

Okay, where to begin?

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Sharpening a knife is actually a very simple process. The overall goal is for you to maintain an angle throughout the sharpening process while sharpening from course to fine grits (Course = smaller #s and Fine = Higher #s). Often people use cheap knives and sharpeners and learn good habits (maintaining angles) before upgrading to higher tier stones. The issue you have is the you are dealing with a premium steel knife which is much harder, holds an edge longer( needs sharpen less often) and takes more time to sharpen with a majority of sharpening materials. If you are dealing with Elmax steel I would recommend that what ever sharpener you get it should have diamond and ceramic stones as these are harder than the knife material and can cut it efficiently unless you are using some belt or grinder system. Since you are a beginner I would recommend that you use a knife sharpening system as you could have more accidents sharpening the knife free hand. Believe me it sucks when you screw up a knife edge while sharpening and you have to spend way too much time fixing your mistakes so the knife can actually cut. In short I would use a test knife in any sharpener to see how it works properly and after you are more confident use the system you choose. Also some of these might be excessive especially if you only have a few knives. Some of the higher end sharpener are what professionals use in their shop (who knows if you get good enough you can make some money).

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1. The Lansky Diamond system ($67) is a great place to start as it has 70/120/280/600 grits but you also have to purchase the C clamp stand ($15 and you do need it as you will get tired holding the thing) and higher grit (1000) ceramic stone ($13) and 2000 grit stone ($12). Leather strops with compound if you want an absolute finish. The only complaint I would have about this system is that the stones are not of the highest quality and stop working as the diamonds fall off. The sharpening guides also are fixed and you have to use a angle measure (your iphone can use its compass app) or some math (trig) to find the position to get an accurate angle throughout the blade. There is a work around stone holder ($60 )That can use Edgepro stones and is longer (better strokes). So with everything but the strop and the 3rd party holder you are looking around $120. $200 with the upgraded stone holder.
   
2. The KME sharpener is very similar concept except that the angle guide is moveable but I must still stress that the angle needs to verified again. Shabazz also explains this in his review. It also has a nicer case. I think you still need to buy the base for this one as well. Like you said it runs around $300 with every thing.
   
3. at $350-575 there is the wicked edge . Hear great things and it will get the job done faster but it is expensive! You can get a Tormek at that price now.
   
4. If you do not want to spend a ton of time sharpening and don't mind belt grinding the Ken Onion Sharpener ($126) is great. Note: it will create a convex edge and if that is something you want great! Video
   
5. Going off the deeper end we have the Tormek T4 ($400-550 or $700 for the full size) which is essentially a wheel grinder made for edge knives and tools. Considered by many to be the best you can get
   
6. There is also the TSprof ($700) which is essentially a bigger top tier KME sharpener. Video
   
7. If you want a simple top tier diamond system DMT Course Set and Fine Set =$200 total. Note that although expensive. These can be used pretty much for decades provided that you take care of them (use diamond abrasive fluid). You can also use water stones but there are so many out there I do not know which brands and how much you could expect to spend with those.
   
   ​
   
   Note that I only mentioned the higher end sharpening systems under the assumption that money is no objection and you wanted it to sharpen you knife efficiently but I wanted for you to see what types of systems are available are certain price ranges. If not mentioned above you might need a strop and fine compound to get a mirror edge.
   
   Okay now here are some cheaper systems that are similar to some of those above but cheaper.
   
   
8. 5 gen Sharpener (ebay) ($40). This is like the KME Sharpener but cheaper and you can get 3rd party Diamond Plates set (140/400/1000) cheap ($25)
   
9. Edge Pro clone - cheaper end copy of the Edge pro. I think you can also use the diamond plates as it is around the same size.
   
10. Lulu sharpener ($90) if you can find one... it is a copy of the Wicked Edge. Looks like it also uses the Diamond plates mentioned earlier.
    
    ALSO: get a ceramic honing rod ($20). Often times knives just need honing to get back that razor sharp edge and maintaining it with a rod will prolong your edge and mean you sharpen less.
    
    ​
    
    Hopefully this has helped you somewhat and sorry it took so long to respond, it just takes time to type all of this out(2hrs! where does the time go?) and cite the products. Personally for me, knives for me a fun hobby and it tends to have a meditative effect on me when I sharpen them. I also hope that you come to enjoy sharpening your knives just as much.
    
    ​
    
    And welcome to sharpening!

I'd recommend something else. i bought those and the stupid orange things break off real easy and make the clamp useless.

I use the metal ones with the rubber caps, the rubber things can slide off and get lost leaving you with something kinda sharp that might rip your tapestry when wind or rain put strain on it but still useful and can be repaired with duct tape

Of course "break the bank" is relative, but this Wilton vise is worth the extra $100 over that Pony.

This Yost is perhaps a better value, but you need to make sure you get a good one as it seems they have some quality control issues.

I have a 7" vise, and I wish I'd gotten a 9". But, I'd rather have a 7" Wilton over a 9" not-Wilton.

Here is the desktop version of your link

Ugh that's the problem I'm having. I keep switching between a 9 (or 10, not sure) inch hoop and a 17 inch qsnap. My grime guard didn't come in yet so I don't have anywhere to tuck my excess fabric with the qsnap so I'm using binder clips to clip the fabric.

I'm also using a 3 inch bench vise to clamp the qsnap in place and hold it for me and act as a stand. It cost 20 bucks on amazon opposed to a $150 stand that would be just as effective.

Hopefully once my grime guard comes in, stitching in the qsnap will be more manageable. But for now I think I'm liking the hoop.

This is the vise I bought, as recommended by others on this sub.

Formatting is hard.

I would never cut those tabs off.

I used a little clamp to squeeze the sides of the mags a little bit. One of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004TRCD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rTz5ybQB30JWH

if you don't already have these, or some channel lock pliers, try squeezing really hard on the sides of the mag with your hand

Get a locking c-clamp. That shit will change your life...

I bought these from a suggestion here and they have been great so far. They are not great quality but it is a lot of clamps for a good price and they are better than the HF ones (I own a few of those as well)

Do you have a table you could use as a base? Others have mentioned using something like this vise https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AA12CWM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1OIIZJKTXNTOC&psc=1

Having something that swivels is crucial so you can get to the back of your work.


On the other hand, having a specialized piece of equipment that's designed to do exactly what you need might be worth the investment.


Needlework System 4 does have a table clamp, but they aren't cheap.

Saw the 24 inch low price while picking up a couple of the Bessey 4 inch for $4.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004TRCD/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486668466&sr=1-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41iER89TJwL&ref=plSrch

I'm a brand new woodworker also doing furniture/cabinet type projects and just loaded up on a beginner set of clamps. This is what I got:

From Harbor freight:

4x 12" quick release

4x 24" quick release

2x 48" F-style bar clamp

2x 60" F-style bar clamp

And this box of assorted spring clamps (they're decent.. not great) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0109K8F3O/

It was actually a good starter setup, I've used everything and haven't run into too many situations yet where I didn't have enough. I use the large spring clamps and 12" clamps the most by far, I need more of those. More often than not, I use the 24" clamps because I ran out of 12". And sometimes I use the 12's for small things that I'd prefer to have 6" clamps for, but I don't have any.. so I need some of those.

Whenever I do run out of clamps in the sizes I need, I end up cobbling together some kind of setup with scrap wood and work with what I have. Don't worry if you don't have enough, you'll figure something out to get you by and you'll know what else you need to get.

It is a clamp from Kreg - by reco from my future father in law.

I got mine from Lowe's for about $20 (not sure of your area so not sure if you can it in a store nearby but here is a link to the one I got just so you can check it out and find out).

Such a great little purchase. Kreg and Rockler make the best stuff.

Look up a black and decker work mate like this, I hear people in apartments love them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PTX62XW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419747185&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51PQpSgajGL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40#

Really not bad at all compared to what you would pay if you bought one from a store. You might find you need some tools as well that might drive up the cost. I ended up buying a corner/angle clamp like this. I definitely recommend one if you don't have one. It made it much easier to screw the boards together.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XJ71JL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A233171VYE4GM1&psc=1

These are ones I'll probably be buying

Thanks!

45s) Traditional knowledge says you can't do them on a miter saw but that's not my experience. 2 years in and my Dewalt 716 is still dead on out of the box. I think the new detent systems make a huge difference. I check it periodically on scrap & combination square and it couldn't be any more accurate.

Glue ups) I'm a huge fan of these strap clamps because they apply pressure uniformly to all 4 corners at the same time. My only complaint is on thinner frames they tend to cam off, but a 1/4" scrap spacer under each corner fixes that. Apply a bit of pressure, adjust anything that shifted, more pressure, readjust, etc. For larger sizes it's easy to connect 2 straps together.

Since you're gluing endgrain, coat all 8 faces and let it setup for about 5 minutes so the fibers absorb some glue. Apply additional glue to 4 faces (I always use the long sides for consistency) and glue up. Makes a very strong joint and I've never had one come apart before adding splines.

No corner is going to come out perfect, but you can hide a lot of mismatch with chisels & sanding.

Rabbet depth) Try to pick your glass, mat, and backer before cutting it and cut about 1/16" shorter than the combined stack to allow the turn buttons to clamp everything in. General guidelines though: glass is typically .1", 4ply mat is typically .05" per layer, and I prefer 3/16" foam backer board.

My opinion:

• Table saw (you could use a circular saw, but your cuts will not be as true)
  
• Miter saw (optional but very useful for the smaller cuts you want square)
  
• Drill
  
• Pocket Jig (small but possibly big as well if you want the bigger pieces to be more secure)
  
• Palm Sander
  
• Clamps
  
• Quality brushes for finishing
  
  Any links to tools are for tools that I have and like. Some people may know of better brands or may have had experiences that are dissimilar to mine.
  
  In regards to wood, you can definitely find slabs big enough, but slabs are expensive and are usually used for tabletops, not for this type of application. When I need larger pieces, I will edge glue boards together (check out this guy who does it for a workbench top). I did this to make a one inch thick tabletop that was roughly 4' X 7'. If you are going to do this I would suggest getting a jointer as well. This will make sure you have perfectly perpendicular sides to lumber you are likely going to buy rough cut. When doing this for furniture as you would be doing if you decide to go this route, you should be very conscientious of the wood you are buying because you will want the grain to line up and for a person casually looking to not be able to discern where the seam(s) are.
  
  DISCLAIMER: I have only been wood working as a hobby for a couple of years and have only a few projects under my belt. I am by no means an expert in anything woodworking and do it for fun. I likely do many things wrong/unorthodox.

I really like these small Bessy Clamps. I bought a few as add on items and I use them all the time now.

Ah gotcha - makes sense. Imagine it's got to be quite a bit faster & gives a bit more even pressure that way. Actually, a C-Clamp would probably be better/easier to work with & modify for that purpose then.

Also - the type of thread is apparently called "ACME". Took me forever to find out what they called it. Have to assume there is a way to buy an acme rod with a hex head & matching bolt.

Aaaand last edit. I'm looking into doing this myself so figured I'd just add what I find in here as well. This seems like it'd be even better than the c-clamp since it's got attachment points built in to the nut - wouldn't even need to use the welded screw method. Or, for the lazy ones of us out there - there's of course this

Sorry for the long delay!

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Most truck-peeps would use this clamp to secure structures to the truck bed (the same area where camper shells scure down).

​

I was ballin' on a budget, so I actually just took some small F-clamps I had to fasten the cuppy to the truck bed.

​

Lemme know if this helps, can draw a picture if you need!

I have one but probably not hf, its black and yellow plastic style with classic screw. When I tigthen it it bow to a point were I stop tighthening it in fear of breaking it. It still does a small clamping force and is light and fast, but I dont find much use because of it because it's too weak. The metal ones are probably way better. If you want C style that can clamp and release fast, I would recommend the vise grip style C clamp like this kind https://www.amazon.ca/Kreg-KHC-PREMIUM-Face-Clamp/dp/B001DC9UR8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491272425&sr=8-1&keywords=Kreg+clamp

Literally bought this same jig from Lowes a few days ago. It does need a a clamp that goes with it. It's $16ish itself.

Kreg KHC-PREMIUM Face Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DC9UR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3hsCybPEFV0BQ

The thing works amazing and is super cool (I'd never heard of one before so it's exciting). Make sure you watch YouTube and read the instructions. I messed up twice setting it up.


Also look into the screws they sell. Pretty cheap. But they match the driver that comes with it.

Interesting. Looks a lot like angle clamp.
I was looking for one other day on Amazon and then I see your post. My brain works funny like that.

Spend a few bucks on a pocket hole jig. You want to avoid screwing into end grain on most places. A basic jig will be about $20 and will work just fine.

A square clamp is also handy, but not necessary.

Sand the pieces before assembly will save you some trouble of sanding in the corners.

Wood glue will add a lot of strength, spread it evenly, screw the pieces together. Then use a rag with a little white vinegar to wipe off any glue that presses out before it dries.


Kreg MKJKIT Mini Kreg Jig Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065WPP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xvrIAbVMZ9N52

Can-Do Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LJNJNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6xrIAbVATMDX4

Just be careful man, it will make your knives SHARP! Then you can filet with anything. I literally filleted the last kelp bass I caught with my swiss army knife, and it worked like butter because I knew what I was doing (Practice) and my knife was sharp as hell.

Then you can go crazy like me and sharpen everything in the house. Machetes, axes, hoes, every kitchen knife, old cheap pocketknives, etc.

*Edit - Get this too f it's not too much. Makes it WAY safer.

You can make two HOTAS mounts with drill press vices, some brackets, and cheap shelving for about $50 if you've got a saw or can get someone to cut the shelving for you. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019KTKS9Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That should work but if it doesn't you can use different sized standoffs to achieve an angled camera. If you do not have standoffs spare I purchased this and it comes with M3 and M2 with a bunch of different lengths.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BR75WFW?psc=1

Toggle clamps. Usually used by woodworkers for holding work in a jig.

I used 1/8 by 2 in aluminum stock with stainless screws. The screw I got on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00012XCCA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473043332&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=press+screw&dpPl=1&dpID=31xL2j6BDiL&ref=plSrch

A new workmate? I haven't looked at the different models but I think there's only 2 or 3.

Ahh I just googled them... It's a good thing you asked. There is a cheap one that just unfolds like this.

But the one I have has a foot rest like this. The foot rest is really important because things aren't heavy and stable like desks or benches so when you do certain things on it you need to put your weight on the foot rest. The little fold out feet can stay tucked under or fold out.

It looks like there's a bigger one with a bigger work surface which looks cool but I've never felt like I was suffering without it. If you can afford it great but I think the middle range one I have is just as good. Very few times have I actually used it as a table or desk but when I did I just clamped a big piece of particle board to it. Idk... I've always had a desk or something. The workmate is more of a very handy cutting surface and giant clamp. You can fold it up and take it with you to different jobs like laminate flooring jobs or you know. It never gets cluttered like a desk or bench would and it folds away. It can clamp awkward pieces of wood in awkward ways to cut. I once even used it to hold a steering wheel for a racing game. It's just a handy thing to have around. He might not get much use out of it at first but it should be around for many years.

You mean vise grips like these? http://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Locking-Original-18/dp/B00004SBBN

Not sure how necessary they are but I use 4 of these:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P00KIJI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, use a z shim:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:440022

My glass is 1/4 inch thick.

I use the Lansky C-clamp, cheap, works fine and is easy to stow away.

You could probably just glue the stones back on with some 5-minute epoxy.

Twin sheets are usually ~5ft x 8ft, so two of them hung side by side would work. Walmart has individual sheets (make sure they're flat, not fitted) for like $5. You can also get some sturdy spring clamps like these for holding the sheets up. Just make sure the jaw size will fit around your pole.

More like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Original-Locking-18/dp/B00004SBBN/ref=pd_cp_hi_0


Mine came with rubber pads that went on the swivel pads

Sure. This is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-D2893-Press-Clamp/dp/B0000DD353

This is the one I just got: Kreg KHC-PREMIUM Face Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DC9UR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gdhyybFJRV3XS

OK wow thank you...I did notice there is no mounting holes... I found this one instead I think would be better what do you think...if u look at the reviews and the pictures a customer posted that's the kind I want to make a twin screw style

http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-D3258-Bench-Screw/dp/B00012XCCA

I meant one like this. I get my types of clamps confused at times.

It's $20 on Amazon but any hardware store has it marked up a lot more.

I do a combination of hand and random orbit sanding when I need to sand. I try to get surfaces as smooth as I can with a smoothing plane and card scrapers so I don't have to sand much, but sometimes it's unavoidable.

As for bar clamps, I got this set from Amazon for $120 a couple years ago. I've supplemented those with others from Harbor Freight.
http://smile.amazon.com/Denali-30-Piece-Bar-Clamp-Assortment/dp/B000NDMO94/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1419722120&sr=1-2-catcorr

As for decent lumber, check your local Craigslist or equivalent for sawmills and lumberyards in your area. Don't buy from the BORG or Rockler/Woodcraft as they'll assrape you without lube. I've had good luck with auctions and yard sales too.

On the two occasions I've used stain, I used General Finishes oil based. Seemed to work well. I try to use woods that are the color I want to begin with. The most I usually do is use something like linseed or tung oil that darkens the wood a bit.

I used this set this year:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0109K8F3O

Fine but the little tips tended to fall off. Still work without the tips but not as well. Plenty strong to hold up even heavy tarps.

I just ordered this set, look sturdier, should last years and has rubber coated tongs so it won't tear anything up:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7ZSPRY

I got them for putting up large heavy tarps to augment our canopies, though. Extra large (2") binder clips work fine for light tapestries.

i was talking about this kind of vise, or i think you replied to the wrong comment.

The prime lens camera is a Panasonic Lumix DMC-GM5 running a Sigma 350963 60mm F2.8 DN. Its mounted to a GFM MK-1, which is then perched on a microphone stand and held in place by spring clamps. A plastic bag on a string filled with a several cans of fruit provided to me by u/ImAddictedToPorn is hung at the end of one of the tripod legs provides counterweight for the weight of the outstretched camera. At the base of the mic stand are bags of rock salt inside custom bags sewed by u/username2201 .

The other mic stand also has the rock salt bags at its base, and the other end is adorned with a GPS bicycle mount, which uses the Gamin ball diameter that I've standardized on for over ten years. On the ball is a iOttie phone dock, and clipped in the mount is my work phone, a Galaxy S7 International running in pro video mode.

Wew. I need a cigarette.

Miter Box (Find one that allows you to cut the 30 degree angle pictured in the guide)

Sanding Block

Clamp

Hammer

Boom! Now get to it!

Same here, but I got some of these recently, which are much better:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LJNJNU

I built this one a while back and I was pretty happy with it. My kit came with some LEDs which would have been useful for line-of-sight flying, I didn't mount it because I wanted it for FPV. If you build that be careful, 250 quads are pretty powerful. You will want a bunch of spare props as well.

In addition you'll need a few 3S batteries (1300-1500 mAh), a charger, a radio such as the Turnigy 9X (comes with a receiver). You can get all that for around $100 from hobbyking. Everything else (two-sided tape, zip ties, etc) you can get at a local hardware store, the one thing that you probably want to get online are nylon standoffs for the PDB and the controller (typically stacked on top of each other).

The Lansky stuff is great, but for day to day use, I find the ultra-rough and ultra-smooth stones to be just too much. I'd suggest getting the Universal kit listed above.

The Super C clamp (http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-LM010-Super-C-Clamp/dp/B000B8L6NQ/ref=pd_sim_sg_2) is also a must.

So I have recently started doing my own scale work. It is quite fun but can be tedious work with how precise you MUST be for drilling screws or the knife wont go back together properly. Blade centering can be screwed up etc.
Anyways the main tools that I use are as follows:

Skil Drill press

Dremel 4000

Dremel Shaper Table

Swivel Benchtop Vise

You will still need other assorted accessories like sanding wheels, cutting wheels (if you dont have a table saw for cutting down G10/Wood/Whatever media). While I am not a pro and I am just starting these are the essentials. Please feel free to PM me or email me [email protected] if you have any other questions. I would be more than happy to help. It is extremely rewarding when you complete a set. The first few may not be perfect but you MADE them yourself :)

The only 2 I have successfully completed. I still need to work on my pattern technique

That turned out nice. I like the idea of the sleeves for the threads. I really need to build one, but I was thinking of using these veneer screw presses since they are acme thread, and have the handle built in already. Will be a little more money, but still pretty cheap.

What size threads did you use? Does the screw protrude out from the handles cause any interference while spinning them?

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

What particular projects are you trying to tackle? I have this one and it has been great for putting together ARs, holding stuff when filing or hacksawing, or installing prefit barrels.