(Part 2) Best computer ups units according to redditors
We found 1,364 Reddit comments discussing the best computer ups units. We ranked the 190 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Check this out at Amazon.com
AmazonBasics Standby UPS 600VA 360W Surge Protector Battery Backup, 8 Outlets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073Q48YGF/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_AiXPDbRVQKF6Z
I don't see the exact model I have listed anymore. But it is close to this model. Pick the size you need for your computer
Thanks for the question, here's specs:
Cabinet itself:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A2JE1SU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Machines (top to bottom):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DZRY9C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What are the rules regarding sizing? Can I run an entire rack off a small one?
E.g., https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-OR500LCDRM1U-System-Outlets-Rackmount/dp/B000XJJN60
>Has anybody have any experience with this?
Yes
>How does gain compensation fit into the workflow, and how does it work?
>Lastly, is there a way to make this redundant with out the use of switches?
Nope. But I'd rank redundant power supplies on the consoles and everything on UPSes higher on my priority list than redundant data cabling, if that matters to you.
We use redundant Cisco SG300-10 switches and CyberPower OR700 UPSes. Both have worked really really well for us in the last year.
>I am hoping to be able to daisy chain the consoles and stage boxes in a loop. Does this work?
Yes, that works. You don't complete the loop though; Dante does not support redundancy via ring topology, only star topology.
Just like a motorcycle helmet. If you've got a $10 head, you buy a $10 helmet. /s
I've been hit by a lightning strike. It took out almost anything that wasn't protected, from a toaster, to my garage door opener. My computer equipment and home theater were protected by APC battery back-ups and survived just fine. I have a lot invested in my home theater and use an APC Smart-UPS 1500VA UPS Battery Backup with Pure Sine Wave Output to protect my TV, cable box, blu-ray player, receiver, and game consoles. With speakers, I figure that I've got over $10k invested, so protecting it with a $250 battery backup is cheap insurance.
My computers are protected as well, I figure that the data on them is worth a lot more than I spend on the battery back ups.
I also had a whole-house surge protector installed on the main power line that comes into the house. I've tied a lightning surge suppressor into the incoming coax cable that handles my internet and TV subscriptions.
Overkill? I don't think so, some might, but I like my equipment.
Nice. You might add a UPS to your plans to protect your equipment. This one costs a bit more than your typical desktop UPS, but it would mount up in your rack and has the LCD display that show runtime and battery status info. https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-OR500LCDRM1U-System-Outlets-Rackmount/dp/B000XJJN60
Suggestion for a UPS is spot on. We put these under everybody's desk and I have a bigger one in the studio. It'll keep your machine alive long enough to save and shutdown, and smooth out those little drop outs. Interface, PC, monitor, etc. all go into it, but none of the outboard gear, since we won't be recording in the dark anyway. Note, if you're hoping to keep working, internet usually drops out because while you can backup up your switch and modem, the cable company doesn't UPS their gear. Phone company does, but DSL...
Does the equipment run with simulated sine-wave UPS? If so you could stock up on cheap ones (eg. https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP350SLG-Standby-350VA-Compact/dp/B0030SL08A/ ). But yeah, I wouldn't ever expect to get more than 5 years out of a UPS.
I use this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDC21FE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's dope.
Propane generators are absolutely a thing. A cursory glance at Walmart shows a basic 2000w generator for about $200 - you'll be more familiar with where the good buys are because I'm not in the US.
However, Amazon offers single panel 1500w solar panels for under $400, and although this is a bit of a tough one to chew on, it's a remarkably good deal.I was mistaken. But, solar shouldn't be discounted entirely.As for your UPS, here is the thing you should be looking at: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-AVRG750U-750VA-450W-Compact/dp/B00K8ZMTAQ/
If your partners PC uses more than 650w, he needs to sell off and rebuild for cheaper. It's possible to build a relatively high end machine that will consume no more than 350w.
Finally, most importantly, get a breaker box. I'm trying to find one, but I'm having some trouble because I don't know what American electrical standards are like. At any rate, look for GFI(Ground Fault Interrupt) breakers.
I have the NUC7PJYH loaded with 8GB of RAM and a 250GB SSD running on an AmazonBasics 600VA/360W (their cheapest model with a USB port for automated shutdown: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B073Q48YGF
This looks to be a rebranded CyberPower Systems model, as the software you can download is PowerChute (Windows and MacOS only). This specific model is not listed on the compatible hardware page for Network UPS Tools, but it should work if it's a CyberPower retread.
Currently $50.
The relatively cheap UPS models meant for routers/networking hardware work brilliantly for the Pi. Something like this can typically run the Pi for several hours or more (depending on capacity) without AC before giving up. It's also largely the same cost as the Anker you are looking at.
I have a Pi, router and modem on something like this and can get 3-4 hours during power cuts.
I did some additional research and I'm thinking I also like this item: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQYX4UX
You can remove that battery and stick a fatter 3.7V battery on that UPS and get all the features we're both looking for! Bigger battery + cool features like voltage detection.
LPT: get a UPS with USB ports, so when charging phones or tablets you're not going from DC --> AC --> DC
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Protector-Charging-BE850M2/dp/B01HDC21FE/
Why not just get a regular low end UPS? Even the cheapest UPS should be able to run a router and modem for a half hour or more.
If you absolutely must have a "micro UPS," you could get one of these or these.
I've heard this winter has the potential to get ugly, so if you got caught unprepared today I think it's fate giving you a practice run.
I recommend a [ups](APC UPS 1000VA Battery Backup & Surge Protector, APC UPS BackUPS Pro (BX1000M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VY12HW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n8.YBbZ9MZEPP) for things like a fish tank or anything low voltage that needs to stay on. A beefier one could also keep your WiFi and modem running giving you internet during the outage. Rarely does cable go out when the power does so this could keep you online and off your data minutes. This might only be a couple hours worth of power though.
Anker also sells battery pack cell phone chargers. Highly recommend having one of those. Mine doubles as a regular charger so it's always also charging itself.
If you go generator make sure it is outside. Common sense but in the extended power outages I've lived through more died from a generator being ran inside than the elements.
I've had terrible luck with these Tripplites, and would never recommend them to anyone. I've used other models of theirs without issue. If you check the reviews for them, you'll find others feel the same. The fact that they still pump these things out and put them on the shelves bothers me.
APC seems to be about the same quality as Cyberpower. I agree that the LCDs on the Cyberpower are pretty nice though, and you can often get one with LCD for the same price as an APC without. That alone makes it worth it. Cyberpower also offers PFC compliant power supplies using their "pure sine wave" technology for much less than you'd pay for other brands. I've read that it's not as clean of a sine wave as what you get in a high end UPS, but I've never had an issue with it affecting PSU longevity.
Haven't used any of the Dells, so I can't speak for them. Overall though, my vote goes to Cyberpower. It's all I usually buy now, and it's what I've been using at home for the past 2-3 years.
Pretty much every APC UPS can talk to the NAS. even in that price range and lower.
Like this for 105USD
APC 1000VA Compact UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector, Back-UPS Pro (BX1000M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VY12HW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o1OTAbCY7YVYR
APC UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector with USB Charger, 850VA, APC Back-UPS (BE850M2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDC21FE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YwTPCbY5VK3QD
Your new best friend. Power went out for about an hour one time and I didn’t miss a beat. Plug your modem, monitor, pc and wheel into that bad boy and you never have to worry about a surge or the power going out ever again.
For computer electronics you want an uninterruptible power supply. Surge suppressors won't much to protect you against lightning strikes and power outages, both of which can easily spell doom for your computer equipment.
Anecdotal experiences where someone thought their computer was protected with a surge protector but wasn't:
-Buddy of mine, all 4 computers in his house fried due to a brown out.
-Client of mine. Her computer kept having failures due to frequent brown outs at her business.
-Coworker. Her computer was literally fried by a nearby lightning strike. Blown capacitors, all components unrecoverable. Her lamp and hair dryer were toast, too.
-Me. A lightning strike near my apartment caused a sudden power dip that killed my desktop PC.
All of these PC's were hooked in to surge protectors. Surge protectors make great power strips, imho. But they don't protect electronics.
What you need is an uninterruptible power supply. UPS will ensure the power supply flowing to your electronics is clean and regulated to help maximize hardware longevity. It will also prevent sudden power offs which can damage your OS and any mechanical drives that might be spinning at the time of an outage. Surge protectors aren't going to save your electronics. A UPS will. It is a must.
That said, choosing one depends on your needs. APC has a handy selector tool for you: http://www.apc.com/us/en/tools/ups_selector/index.cfm
The average desktop doesn't need anything too fancy. This is what I settled on: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VY12HW4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get a UPS. They're not very expensive for smaller ones and it could really save your ass down the road. Even something like this.
I bought one after a couple of ungraceful power downs due to the power going out and almost losing all my data. It saved my ass within the week after buying it.
edit: I just saw your comment up above. You may disregard.
This looks more like a batter charger than a UPS.
​
I think you need something more like this
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-BackUPS-BX1350M/dp/B06WD82BM8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=APC+UPS+Battery+Backup+%26+Surge+Protector+with+AVR%2C+1350VA%2C+APC+Back-UPS+Pro+%28BX1350M%29&qid=1562343241&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Word of note, I am in the US so our power is 110vAC. didnt read this enough to know if it supports 220v feed.
So the battery packs listed by the other guy are generally only for camping/portable use. If you are just worried about power outages in the house, you want a UPS (uninterrupted power supply). Something like this one. It puts a battery between the cpap and the wall, so if power goes out it falls back to battery on its own. If you download the software for it, you can disable the alarms so the buzzer doesn't go off in your sleep if you lose power. This one would be good for occasional power outages of a few hours. you'd want a higher capacity for longer times.
I don't know how big of a device you'd want, but something like this should work.
You can get a real UPS for not much more than the cost of a power bank (and less than many), and it'll actually work like a UPS is supposed to, switching you from mains to battery and back. A power bank will always run off of the battery, and then charge itself separately. Even if your power bank can discharge while charging (most don't), you're wasting power 100% of the time because the conversion from mains to battery is not 100% efficient.
I added up the max wattage of your stuff (guessing on the 24 switch and USG4P) and got a high value of 1000w (generous max). I would get something like these:
•This has a 7mIn runtime at 1000w, but you most likely won’t use the max wattage.
APC 1500VA Smart-UPS with SmartConnect, Pure Sine Wave UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protection (SMC1500C) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y62GSJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QtX7AbW4TGNXS
•APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BR1500G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rhX7Ab65SDWHN
The Back-UPS Pro allows for a battery expansion if needed. This one:
•APC External Battery Backup Pack for Model BR1500G (BR24BPG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047E5B90/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MnX7AbGMCVXPT
Look more at the watts and runtime then volts. You can get rack mount versions but they will be higher cost.
If your home electricity is bad, you are still not safe! A high end psu will be better, but will fail! You need an uninterupable power supply with enough wattage to cover your build.
The psu will be damaged by surges. The UPS is, essentially, a battery. It charges from the wall and discharges into the psu. It will smooth out any poor voltage. It will even allow you to safely shut down in the case of a power outage, as you'll have a short time on battery power.
And think that while you might have not gotten the best performance/$, if you hadn't been willing to listen to my criticism, you wouldn't have been able to ensure the safety of the rig. The power of a positive attitude on display.
I am currently using this as a UPS with the PiHole plugged into the 2.4 amp port. I might have been using the wrong plug in the past though, we'll have to see how long of a run I get before it crashes again.
TrippLite has a 1500VA, 900W 2U UPS that's basically $200 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DZRY9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
You can get the 'expandable version' and basically add another 2U (half length) battery to it.
I am using one of these, have not had any issues so far: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Q48YGF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have two UPS in the house. One large APC for my main workstation (PC, Monitors, secondary access point, SmartThings, MyQ, Printer, HTPC).
What I was more surprised to find was this UPS when I converted my phone jacks around the house (wired with cat5e) to ethernet. This one is wall mounted (awesome!) in my garage along with a router, switch, modem, and patch panel for the house wiring. It's a nice and cheap option for battery backup on simple devices. NOTE: Grounded devices cannot be plugged into this UPS.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-BackUPS-BX1000M/dp/B06VY12HW4/ref=asc_df_B06VY12HW4/ something like this should be fine but I'd also replace the surge protector, just in case. And I concur with returning it all as the PSU faulting or the power surge of some kind most likely probably damaged other components beyond your ability to readily diagnose, I mean why not, it's covered, take it back, all of it, get new. Crazy it's not even posting... I think your ram got fried too.
This one is very close .. it MIGHT work but don't quote me. The dimensions are in the description of you scroll down. Says it has a depth of 10.5 inches.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZRY9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M8szDbFF1YHZG
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073Q48YGF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the backup I use. You also need to bring a charger with you but I think it's worth it
"In addition, it safeguards electronics from commonly occurring power surges caused by storms, activity on the power grid, or high-powered equipment turning on and off."
I run the stove plugged into an APC 850VA UPS/surge protector. Do you think that is insufficient? Is there something better I should be using to protect it from voltage spikes?
You shouldn't need to run it off battery 100% of the time, but the UPS should support sinewave. I'm partial to APC battery backups myself. We use them at work for our servers, routers, and ATM machines. Some of the ATMs I service are in some really old buildings. A simple APC SMC1500 which goes for around $300 should be perfect for your usage. My issue with recommending a dedicated line conditioner is that you'll be masking the real problem. You should really hire a licensed electriction to inspect the wiring. You might be surprised to find out the problem is something small like bad wires going to the wall outlet.
http://www.amazon.com/APC-SMC1500-Smart-UPS-Interface-Uninterrupted/dp/B007ZT2KKM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=1-6&keywords=APC+UPS
Look for something rated somewhere around 600W/1000VA, with "pure sine wave" output. The max power ratings on consumer UPSes are usually for 2-3 minutes time, so if you want 5 minutes at you're going to have to get something rated above the power you're actually going to pull. https://www.apc.com/us/en/tools/ups_selector/home/load The APC site's selector recommends this https://www.amazon.com/APC-Compact-Protector-Back-UPS-BX1000M/dp/B06VY12HW4
If you dont need rack mounted, Ive found my APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS with the extended Battery to be very good. Current load is 130w and runtime is 178 mins.
If I turn on the desktop that is also on there, runtime drops to just over an hour with the combined ~250w load.
I have it connected to my FreeNAS whitebox via the included USB, with NUT running on FreeNAS that shuts down the rest of the applicable servers via network.
Total cost new: ~$310 USD.
Edit: N.U.T.
Hey. Any way to tell if this battery module is compatible with the Pi 4 B in terms of voltage/power consumption etc? Thanks!
battery module
This is what I just recieved from Amazon yesterday: APC UPS 1350VA Sinewave UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector, APC BackUPS Pro UPS (BR1350MS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779QFRRT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N26JBbMRD99KF
You just need to add up the Watts on your devices and make sure to buy one large enough.
The manufacturer web page has a calculator for sizing it.
They usually say pure sine wave. They're also usually a little more expensive. Here are a couple examples:
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Smart-UPS-1500VA-Battery-SMC1500/dp/B007ZT2KKM
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
APC makes one (BGE50ML)
Remember when power goes out it doesn't mean you have zero hot water, you have simply lost the ability to produce more hot water. You still have 40gal of hot water in your tank.
The thing is, UPS system's aren't really designed for backup power unless you add a crapload of additional battery capacity. They're designed to keep running for just long enough for you to either gracefully shutdown and power off your equipment, or hookup a longer-term power source such as a generator.
I have this 1500VA model from APCC along with this extended runtime battery hooked up to my home PC. Dual 24" monitors plus a mid-range older desktop. Power goes out, I have maybe an hour of battery. Without the add-on battery pack, it lasts fifteen minutes.
I have a smaller 1200VA UPS for my wireless router and DSL modem, last time the power went out I think the timer on it said somewhere around 300 minutes of runtime remaining. That's with hardly anything plugged into it - if I had a PC hooked up, it would probably be 30 minutes or less.
You're really better off just getting a generator.
I have an APC 1500 UPS.
APC Smart-UPS 1500VA UPS Battery Backup with Pure Sine Wave Output Rack-Mount/Tower (SMC1500-2U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZT2KV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ie38BbXJYPAM3
I got it from dell for less than that because I had a bunch of rewards points from ordering stuff through dell business credit.
I have it mounted on the bottom of my rack because it’s super heavy.
My devices are not plugged into the UPS. They’re plugged into PDU’s which go into the UPS.
I’m using two of these.
StarTech.com Rackmount PDU with 8 Outlets with Surge Protection - 19in Power Distribution Unit - 1U https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035PS5AE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4f38BbNGK7QE4
There are 0u ones that mount on the side of the rack as well. They’re more expensive. Those are the least expensive new PDU’s you’ll find.
A few of my customers at work have this UPS.
CyberPower OR500LCDRM1U Smart App LCD UPS System, 500VA/300W, 6 Outlets, AVR, 1U Rackmount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XJJN60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3i38BbR8SWEXS
It’s worked pretty well. It doesn’t have the ability to connect via the network or do any outage management stuff without being directly plugged in via usb. You can purchase an additional card for that. The APC is more advanced and has higher output, but higher cost.
The cyberpower does not have replaceable batteries, which are consumables and will need replaced every few years.
These smaller ones typically power a router, network switch, access point, and perhaps a small office nas device like a netgear readynas 3138.
At work we use these or bigger.
APC SMT2200RM2U 2200VA RM 2U LCD 120V Smart-UPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F09D0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bl38Bb6QQM1W4
They’re super nice. Management card is additional. These require 20 amp circuits and receptacles or higher. You can use the software (webpage) to power cycle a group of outlets. Pretty neat stuff. But you do pay for the neat stuff.
It won't stop the flickering, but it will keep the flickering from breaking anything. If you want to stop the flickering get an 'uninterruptible power supply' (UPS) which is a big battery that sits between the wall and your PC and will use its battery power to compensate for the low voltage.
Something like[this](http://www.AmazonBasics.com/ Standby UPS 400VA 255W, 6 Outlets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073Q48Z95/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qs35CbZGRWM21) should be fine for your use case.
I'm gonna copy my response to another post:
>UPS size is not directly dependant on the PSU wattage, but the draw of the system you want to keep on. Assuming that you need to power your system at peak load, which would be approximately 150W for a mildly OCed 8700K (could be up to 250W at 1.35v) and 250W for the 2080, that gives us 400-500W of total power draw.
>Now, UPS have two ratings, maximum Watt and VA. Max watt is usually around 60% of the max VA rating, so you'd need a 900-1000VA UPS to keep it safe. This would give you more than enough time (5-10 mins) to save your work and shut down your system. It's overkill for just 15-20 seconds but you need a beefy unit due to high tdp components.
>You have to take into account sine waveform too, that's a bit more technical but you just should get a good quality unit since a low quality one with a not so pure sine waveform might not act as intended with your PSU.
The 8600K has a peak power draw of around 150W when heavily OCed (5Ghz @1.4v), and the 1070Ti draws about 175W. That's about 350W when adding the rest of the components, that would give us a rating of around 600VA, so I would go for this one to have a bit of margin.
I have the 950VA model and has saved me a few times now, no problem whatsoever.
Tripp Lite 1500VA Smart UPS Battery Back Up, 900W Rack-Mount/Tower, LCD, AVR, USB, DB9 (SMART1500LCD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZRY9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9SKzCbPZQA5CJ
Found this for you: http://www.apc.com/products/runtime_for_extendedruntime.cfm?upsfamily=27 on the manufacturer's website.
This page says that the BR1500G (the one you linked) will last a little over 2 hours at 50W. You might get a little longer than that at only 30W, but UPSs are less efficient at lower loading.
Apparently you can also pair that unit with an external battery and get nearly 7 hours, though now you've spent nearly 300$ on batteries.
I hope that helps!
Thanks very much - this is good to know.
I’ve gone for this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002RL0CKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oR1JDbA4M775S
It is the APC SMC1500.
I went a little ^a ^lot overkill when I bought it. Works great though.
Ohhhh you're out of power. Well you could just buy one of these next time.
Also why do you have a cellular and cable modem?
I was a long time user of Tripplite and APC, both are good, but caught a really good thanksgiving sale on some Cyberpower units with AVR. They've outlasted every Tripplite and APC I've ever owned. Basic unit, with AVR, or newer revision of what I'm using.
Make sure you get a unit with a user replaceable battery, many of the cheap models don't have that option any more, at least not without soldering and possibly breaking plastic.
It depends on the specific UPS on how it switches between power sources. Some (continuous) UPS always run off the battery and constantly recharge the battery, some run off mains power and then switch to battery once voltages drop, and some do a combination of both by supplementing mains voltage with battery if it drops too low.
I clicked on the first UPS on Amazon and it uses the hybrid voltage mode (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K8ZMTAQ). So I'm guessing in theory, if the mains voltage dropped it would supplement it with battery power, all the way to the point where it completely switches to battery if needed.
Amazon
I have a fridge in the garage that one time lost power without us knowing (GFCI tripped) and we didnt realize it until it started smelling.
Here is what I did. This may work for you:
The way everything works is- When the UPS detects that it is running on Battery power (i.e. power-loss), it sends a signal to the raspberry pi. The apcupsd program detects this message and triggers a script- it can be any script. The script I have sends me a text message (It actually sends an email via sms message) when it detects the UPS is running on battery. It also sends me another message when the power is restored in case it was some kind of blip.
Anyway- not going to take any of the credit here. All of the work was done and well documented on this guide.
EMCXRKBE2
for easy copypasta
Today only (2017-09-14, ends 11:59:59 PDT or before). Email says this is targeted, so YMMV. I was able to use my shoprunner for free 2 day shipping, though shipping should be free regardless--just slower without SR, probably.
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Per the Amazon page (which actually has reviews) this will do a decent job of powering your modem & router through a brief power outage, as well as providing brown-out protection. Useful if you have a laptop or tablet to use during a power outage, and/or your main PC with UPS isn't located in the same place as your networking.
For reference, here's the Amazon price history: https://camelcamelcamel.com/APC-Back-UPS-Connect-Battery-BGE70/product/B00KH07WRC
As with everything it pays to shop around and be an informed consumer.
Just checking one unit, Amazon is cheaper, including free shipping at 134.99 than Microcenter is for the same unit at $144.99
Both will charge VA Sales Tax so that's a wash.
Other products could be the exact opposite situation.
You might need a new power supply.
Might also want to look into a power line conditioner or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779QFRRT
This is different than a regular UPS/battery-backup because it filters power whether or not it runs off the battery.
APC makes a UPS just for this purpose. You can buy it here on Amazon. I bought one of these just to run my modem and it lasted me through the entire time my power was out (which was over 3.5 hours) with battery left over. So I think it'll give you more run time than any other general purpose UPS out there. Mind you, it does not support anything with grounding prongs and it has a max capacity of somewhere around 70W, so don't put anything extra on it besides the modem and the RT-AC68U. The reason why it can achieve so much runtime for its size is because it was specifically designed for such low loads and has a very efficient dc to ac inverter. Another thing to note is that this thing can only output a square wave, so don't put any sensitive equipment behind it (the modem and router are most likely fine). They also have a cheaper version [here] (https://www.amazon.com/APC-BGE70-Back-UPS-3-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B00KH07WRC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479869782&sr=8-1&keywords=APC+bge70) that has a little less runtime and is probably cheaper than any normal UPS, I think this would be the best option as you're looking for just 10 mins of runtime anyway (it advertises to do 3 hours).
I've had my eye on this, its tempting. This is also the only UPS in the series that can use the external battery pack for a big boost in run time.
My current hardware (my apologies for the incoming wall of text this post is going to turn into):
I don't currently have any wireless devices that can take advantage of the 4x4 5Ghz radio in the AP, and I rarely ever do anything on WiFi anyway (my phone, Roku, and AndroidTV boxes are pretty much it), so I can't help with wireless performance. I can tell you that every single gigabit switch I've had, prior to my current switch, netted me ~80-90MB/s transfers between wired devices (when transferring large files, like movies / TV show episodes). Doing the same thing on my UBNT switch nets me a pretty steady +109MB/s.
As to my router -- I only have a 50/5 connection currently, and it's more than able to handle it. I don't use IDS/IPS, so it'd have no issues with a gigabit link WAN connection, if one were even available (at a cost I'd be willing to pay). Nothing I do online even needs that kind of speed, so unless a connection like that became available very near the $67.50 I currently pay (it's a 'business' line with no data cap), it's extremely unlikely I'd upgrade anyway... lol
The hardware has been extremely reliable. No random reboots, no bugs that have required me to restart the hardware on a daily / weekly / whatever basis, etc. It Just Works(TM). Unless there is a bad security vulnerability that rears its ugly head (like the WiFi Krack thing that happened a bit back), I only do firmware / controller updates every three-ish months -- the switch and AP are currently at 55 days uptime, while the USG is at 90 days). It's all connected to a 1u rack mounted UPS to keep power sags / spikes at bay. This is a photo of the hardware installed into the little rack I built for it.
I also have a USG3P and UAP-AC-Lite -- I installed them into a plastic storage tote, along with my previous 8 port gigabit Netgear switch. I take this to my brothers house twice a year (end of November and December), as his cheap router can't handle all the WiFi devices that end up in his house at those times of year. He had me run a Cat5 line to his basement for a project he abandoned, so I hook up to that and create my own mini network (I have the UAP-AC-Lite set to its lowest power setting, and still get a pretty strong signal through most of his house -- lol). I had no real reason to upgrade from these parts -- I happened to get a stupidly good deal on the USG-PRO-4, and after a year with the UAP-AC-Lite, decided I'd pick up the UAP-nanoHD while it was in the "Early Access" store to 'future proof' my environment.
This is what Costco has:
http://costcocouple.com/cyberpower-battery-backup/
Here is the one I use now:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779QFRRT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MqtQCb8KYS1HM
On the manufacturers web sites there are calculators to know what size you need for you equipment, and how long you want it to run before shutting down.
I have and currently use these:
Makerfocus UPS HAT has a 2500 mah Battery and is pretty good if you only need the pi to be powered (via GPIO), it has 4 LEDs that show the power left on the battery, will not reset the pi with power outage.
SunFounder Lithium Battery Pack Expansion Board is good if you want two usb's plugged in, has a bigger battery than the first one (3800 mah), but no LED indicators, also will reset the pi if power outage.
Vilros Raspberry Pi Back Up Battery has a 8800mah battery, will not reset the power on power outage, is only 1amp output though, can also be used for other things.
PowerBoost 500 & 1000 from Adafruit, both are good for projects, won't reset during power outage and have a LED indicator for low power.
If you have any questions about any of those, I'll be happy to help you out.
Yeah, I did a bunch of research on available UPS hats to make my Pi CUPS print server more reliable last week.
There are a bunch of clones based on the same design on Amazon and other sites, at the moment they all share the same design and software and all are affected by the same issues. The clones I've seen are UGeek, Geekworm and Makerfocus. Check out some of the reviews if you're curious.
Like any other system it is possible. If you fear it do like I did get a UPS for your PS4. I was forced to as where I live our power company is very bad on keep the power on, BGE. I get at lest 1 a week, to up to 2 a day, you would think in the US power would be more reliable but this is Baltimore.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Q48Z95/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
that the one I got, just plug only the PS4 in it, should last a while (it does the job for the short 2 to 5 second loss of power I get with BGE) you don't need to plug your TV into it, you just want to protect the console not play during the outage.
This is my current go-to with my current setup, but it can be a bit more expensive than some will want to shell out:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VY6FXMM/
A cheaper alternative is, which also has less expensive versions as well, but they have less volt-amps, so will not power your system for as long. I tend to oversize the UPS as a just-in-case, giving my system ample time to shut down properly on its own.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDC21FE/
This should probably get the job done to your satisfaction.
Not sure if it matters on UPS devices, but black friday is just around the corner so it might be worth it to wait a couple of days.
It is on https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00T7BYV6W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for around £72 which seems like a reasonable offer.
Best of luck!
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https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DBAAJQ6
Using a pi connected to it via usb with http://www.apcupsd.com/ running for home assistant to pull stats from. Also allows me to automatically gracefully shut down systems when battery is low in the event of a power loss, and I get handy email alerts when the power goes out :)
I bought the APC equivalent because it has an expansion slot for more battery capacity. (it's an additional unit)
I picked up the UPS+Battery for ~$220 off Amazon used.
Of course it can, mine is natural gas, but not as easy for an electric one. I have a UPS hooked to mine, so I can have hot water during power outages. Mine is a standard PC UPS form APC, with a supplemental extra battery pack hooked into it for a combines 3000VA of power. Mine is US, so 120volt, and is a Rinnai RUC98i, which can heat 9.8 Gal/min. You only need power to run the igniter, and then the brain to allow it to measure and mix the heated water with fresh water in order to bring it to the temperature the unit is set to.
When the unit is on (and mixing hot with cold water) it draws more than when idle. If I leave it on 24/7 it has juice for about 2-3 days of powering just the tankless. If I unplug it when not about to use it, easily a week of power.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y24DEU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047E5B90/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have the OR700LCDRM1U and I'm really happy with it. It is louder when on battery than my tower units though, and I'd be curious if that's unique to mine or if I should look to replace as I haven't heard that complaint from anyone else.
My only real complaints are that the run time isn't great, exactly as advertised and what I expected, but it'd be nice if there was a 2U shallow depth model available.
Has been solid as a rock for me though.
16 amps for a pc ups?
That device is far more powerful than a PC needs and 10 times the cost unless you intend to run it for long periods in a power cut.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/APC-Back-UPS-BX-Uninterruptible-Shutdown/dp/B00T7BYV6W/ref=sr_1_1/254-5854156-6804263?ie=UTF8&qid=1484900721&sr=8-1&keywords=pc+ups
APC makes better "floor" models with full battery backup, like this one
Looks like I got it when it was on sale, but there are other options, but this is the one I have.
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP600LCD-Intelligent-600VA-Compact/dp/B000OTEZ5I/ref=lp_764572_1_13?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465069072&sr=1-13
Get one, never look back. I had a power outage take out 2 of my monitors. Should have bought one of these a long time ago. You can even configure it (via a USB connection and some software) to auto shut down the PC for longer power outages so it doesn't drain the battery.
If you really need longer power duration throw one of these in there as well.
EDIT: Do some research because there can be issues with compatibility depending on if the device needs pure sine waveform or can used stepped approximation.
$45 for a UPS that would at least give the stuff a 20-30 minute runtime. Plus, helps provide consistent power. Brownouts are also bad for electronics.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP425SLG-CP425HG-Standby-Compact/dp/B0030SL08A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469036868&sr=8-2&keywords=cyberpower+battery+backup
And a $300 pfsense box? ouch. an Edgerouter would probably do just as fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073Q48Z95/ref=twister_B079Z981R2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This Right here. Can I use this to charge 1-2 Lime Scooter?
Hey Thanks! That an UPS/Surge Protector
Its the lowest power one but is all I needed since the total sum of all that is running is ~100 watts. It will give me about 45 minutes of uptime if the power goes out but then the NAS will shut itself down after 10 minutes of no power which would allow the modem and router to stay on much longer. Has been a life saver for my little power blips during storms since I work from home.
UPS systems have only 1-3 minutes of so of run time at maximum power. You may want a UPS with AVR (voltage regulation) if you're switching to a locally generated source. You'll need to scale your UPS by the maximum power rating: a 1500VA unit: https://smile.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK a 600VA unit: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000OTEZ5I
I run the 1400VA one in my lab. It's been great.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/APC-Back-UPS-BX-Uninterruptible-Shutdown/dp/B00T7BYV6W/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1523022567&sr=1-6&keywords=ups
buy a Google AIY voice kit (https://aiyprojects.withgoogle.com/) and this Raspberry pi battery https://www.amazon.com/Makerfocus-Raspberry-2500mAh-Lithium-Battery/dp/B01MQYX4UX/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1517536401&sr=8-7&keywords=raspberry+pi+battery then put the battery on first. then bam you have a portable google home
I personally use this one
I want to echo everyone else's sentiment by saying your setup is plenty, but I can empathize with the need to have the latest and greatest. Definitely get a surge protector and or battery backup. They are only around $160 (https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-BackUPS-BX1500M/dp/B06WD82BM8) and is a very worthwhile insurance for a computer of that price. This will prevent any power surges from frying your motherboard and has the added benefit of keeping the computer on for a few minutes in the event of a power outage. Beyond that, the only thing that will benefit you (for the graphics tasks you mentioned) is more RAM or an additional GPU. But that's entering high end After Affects territory. If you're at that level of computing need, though, you should probably use a rendering server instead.
Yeah okay 650 sounds fine anyways, if it turns out to be the power something like the following should be a good solution, definitely something to invest into once you want to upgrade.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Standby-UPS-400VA-Outlets/dp/B073Q48YGF/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536709565&sr=8-22-spons&keywords=uninterruptible%2Bpower%2Bsupply&th=1
>> $80 UPSes have automatic voltage regulation
>
>No, they don't.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K8ZMTAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eEmACbGY6YHWV
>> UPSes still regulate voltage if the battery is bad.
>
>Have you dealt with a UPS that has a dead battery? Here's a simulation:
>
>BEEEEEPPPP BEEEEEPPP BEEEEEEPPP
>
>All. Fucking. Day.
You can still use the non-battery plug ports and get AVR protection without the beeping.
>If you buy cheap ass batteries, you're still spending as much as a good surge protector.
They last long enough, and you can find replacement batteries online for cheap:
https://www.batterysharks.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=AVRG750U&Submit=
Believe it is an older model of this guy:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Battery-Rack-Mount-SMART1500LCD/dp/B000DZRY9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549348055&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Tripp+Lite+UPS&dpPl=1&dpID=41ATThlgN4L&ref=plSrch
Sits at the bottom of a Telco rack, with a 24port trendnet switch, an EdgeRouter, a 8 port POE ToughSwitch and a Motorola cable modem. Server is an old build with an i3 with a 500gb SSD and 4x3TB WD Reds.
6 hours is a stretch. But some options I like, unless you're okay with a 1U or 2U rack mounted one (can actually be cheaper).
Have you tried one of these?
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-EC650LCD-Ecologic-390-Watts-Efficient/dp/B00DBAAJQ6/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1487535991&sr=1-7&keywords=Battery+Backup
A UPS would probably solve this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Standby-UPS-400VA-Outlets/dp/B073Q48Z95/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1538384958&sr=8-6&keywords=upc
It would ensure that a steady voltage is always available to whatever's plugged into it.
I use an Uninterrupted Power Supply (UPS) with Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR) like this for my mixer and router because anything digital is susceptible to low power. I usually run my powered speakers directly off the generator feed.
??
edit: oh yeah i just realized the APC Back-UPS Connect UPS doesn't have a ground prong
I thought about getting a mini UPS just for the PI that runs my ADSB stuff (Its in an upstairs closet). Ive had a couple power outages that caused card failure. Ive seen some like this go on sale for around 25 bucks. Next time Im throwing down for one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073Q48Z95/ref=psdc_764572_t4_B01HDC236Q
OK, maybe only for 2 laptops - https://www.amazon.com/APC-External-Battery-BR1500G-BR24BPG/dp/B0047E5B90
They say that 50 Wt ~= 7 hours
Or it's bad idea?
I can't help you fix it, but if you do get it working again, I would suggest a UPS. I picked up one for this exact thing because we had tons of short power outages from high winds. This is the one I ended up with, but there are a ton of options out there. CyberPower AVRG750U AVR UPS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K8ZMTAQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
There are uninterruptible power supplies for the Pi's.
You can also buy a UPS that keeps everything you have up and running for long enough to shut them down properly, for under $100.
There's no reason you can't run everything off a single UPS, dude.
Run one drop on the walls where you know you won’t need additional drops there. If you need to use the single drops in the future, just bring in a switch. For the locations that you need more than one drop right now, just run the additional cables. It’s best to avoid switches in your network.
This is my setup:
Tripp Lite 9U Rack
Cable Matters patch panel x2 - 1U
UniFi switch - 48 port - 1U
UniFi bundle (cloud key, AP, security gateway)
Tripp Lite UPS - 2U
I used Cable Matters Cat6 . If you go with another brand, make sure it doesn’t contain CCA conductors, you want full copper.
Try to avoid surveillance solutions that rely on wireless connectivity, I’m not a big fan of it. Ubiquiti’s surveillance gear isn’t that bad, I believe the UniFi G3 has two way audio.
>BR550GI
https://www.amazon.de/APC-550VA-Stromsparfunktion-Multifunktionsdisplay-Ger%C3%A4teschutzversicherung/dp/B002RL0CKI (Sorry, in German ;))
>I'm thinking max it's going to be drawing about 500W at any one time.
Probably a lot less. You need something like killawatt to tell you the real amount of power you're using.
I'd probably get this. Its no frills, cheap, and battle-tested.
http://www.amazon.com/APC-SMC1500-Smart-UPS-Interface-Uninterrupted/dp/B007ZT2KKM/ref=lp_764572_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1418914712&sr=1-10
1500VA is going to be highest VA rating for a 120V line. This model also comes in as a rackmount.
I currently have a CyberPower UPS, i.e. http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-OR700LCDRM1U-Smart-700VA-Rackmount/dp/B000XJLLKG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418059449&sr=8-2&keywords=rack+mount+ups... and I have connected it to a VM via UPS (A & B ends) and it tells me the wattage used to run based upon what is connected. This is much more cheap compared to smartonline series from Tripplite. The limitation is it isn't accessable via SNMP for that requires a network card add-on... :(
So it's definitely a budget purchase ($60) but it works like a charm and has already saved my butt twice. It gave me about 30 minutes to shut down my NAS, and it works with the UPS management software built into DSM.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Standby-UPS-400VA-Outlets/dp/B073Q48YGF/ref=sr_1_12?gclid=Cj0KCQjwz8bsBRC6ARIsAEyNnvrFjVhvDaQY_YEnqubouMVp2XYMW2I62J3bOtFhbBw6BXePWyEcUMEaAgCjEALw_wcB&hvadid=326732096327&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9033254&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=16925324996256839084&hvtargid=kwd-294537293467&hydadcr=924_1012420393&keywords=computer%2Bups%2Bsystem&qid=1569865980&s=gateway&sr=8-12&th=1
Get a 1000VA/600W unit like this one.
Edit: if you need it to be powered on for an hour, get the 1500VA unit + Quad-battery expansion.
Here's a [publication about power surges] (http://publications.usa.gov/pdfs/pdf1339.pdf).
If you're experiencing power instabilities, you might notice the brightness of a lightbulb fluctuating (indicating the voltage is fluctuating). But some spikes are so quick that you might not notice.
If you suspect that you have unstable power, I recommend that you use a [UPS] (http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP600LCD-Intelligent-600VA-Compact/dp/B000OTEZ5I/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450614723&sr=1-5&refinements=p_89%3ACyberPower). This is more expensive than a simple surge protector but will provide much better protection. I've been using the one I linked for a couple of years. It'll monitor the voltage and tell you how many times you've experienced over-voltage or under-voltage conditions and it will provide you with protection in both cases in addition to temporarily providing power during a complete blackout.
Edit: I'm only focusing on the AC power because you mentioned that your friend suspects it's a problem. But it could have absolutely nothing to do with that.
I would also double-check the installation of your motherboard and power supply. Make sure everything is properly connected and grounded to the case, and no potential short circuits. Use HWiNFO to monitor motherboard temperature and voltages during a stress test. Here is a screenshot to show some of the monitoring capabilities.
I have this power supply, and I want this backup UPS. I read a bunch of things about pure-sine requirement or whatever so now I'm not sure if this UPS will work with my PSU but I can't find anything online- can anyone direct me to resources or otherwise help me find the answer? edit: in case anyone asks here is my build https://pcpartpicker.com/user/wendon0/saved/6ZbD3C
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP425SLG-Standby-Outlets-Compact/dp/B0030SL08A/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1520741372&sr=1-7&keywords=cyberpower
I have a few PoE switches on a small wall-mount rack and I use a few of these (depending on load and longevity of backup time): http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-OR700LCDRM1U-Smart-700VA-Rackmount/dp/B000XJLLKG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453317342&sr=8-1&keywords=1u+UPS
They have an HTTP card if you want to manage remotely (pretty handy for remote power cycles, etc)
After building my first computer a few weeks ago I decided it would be a good idea to get a UPS to protect it.
The build draws about 550W of power according to pcpartpicker, in addition to that I got dual 1920x1080 monitors (which according to the amazon page draw 23W each) and some other peripherals, so probably 650W under 100% load. I'd also like to leave some headroom for future updates (etc. graphics card SLI, more peripherals).
What kind of UPS should I get for it to be able to power my system for about 5 minutes?
I looked into this: http://www.amazon.de/APC-550VA-Stromsparfunktion-Multifunktionsdisplay-Ger%C3%A4teschutzversicherung/dp/B002RL0CKI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452107172&sr=8-3&keywords=ups#productDetails - Will this be good enough? Do I need the 900VA or 1200VA version?
I actually do have a UPS for the PC and monitors, but I think that maybe I should get something with more load capacity? My current one has a max load of 340 watts. With everything on, I'm usually riding around 180 watts being used which usually puts me at 5 mins of battery life if all power went out according to the software. However, once the washer starts everything just trips out and the PC restarts anyway so I'm not too sure what's going on.
This is the one I have to be specific: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP600LCD-Intelligent-600VA-Compact/dp/B000OTEZ5I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
I've got one with a USB and a USB-C port on the front. It's definitely geared towards higher-end consumer as opposed to businesses though, so lots of shiny plastics. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779QFRRT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wfW3DbPN2FVFB
> but I don't know if they sell one with 4 ports.
You can get up to 6 keystone jacks in a 1-gang box
> I thought that I would buy a new rack-mountable switch and patch panel. This is what I've been considering:
Like /u/toaster_knight said, get a vertical or deeper one. I would strongly recommend an actual enclosure with a locking door for an office environment.
I also see no reason to put anything smaller than a 24-port in a rack. It's just a waste of space and money.
I would also recommend at least a SMB-level switch. Yes, they are more expensive, but their uptime and management capabilities are worth it IMO. The Ubiquiti 24-port switch is under $200 IIRC.
> I'm assuming that I can rest the router on top of the switch.
That will probably be fine, but you can get rackmount shelves and drawers as well. The shelf is nice because you can remove the switch without messing about with the router.
> I'd also like to buy some type of cable organizers for inside the ceiling. I normally use those small cable clips, but they seem to be intended for one cable. I've seen velcro used, but I'm not sure how to actually secure the cables.
You can get joist hangers, but inside a ceiling, the cables are usually just bundled and left loose or in a tray. If you have a drop ceiling, there are a wide variety of products designed for your support system.
I would also recommend a UPS and a power distribution panel. UPS for obvious reasons and the power panel will let you easily power cycle each component without having to dig into the back--something that gets much harder after rack-mounting.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Connect-Charging-BGE50ML/dp/B013JHYQNC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504808279&sr=8-2&keywords=apc+modem+backup
I use this one dedicated for my router/modem. Works well, as you would expect.
this is just for home use? get a UPS. Anything above 500VA would probably power both all night if the power went out. To be safe, get something beefier.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505343694&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=apc+ups&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Smart-UPS-1500VA-Battery-SMC1500/dp/B007ZT2KKM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505343694&sr=1-6&keywords=apc+ups
https://www.amazon.it/APC-Back-UPS-BX-continuit%C3%A0-Shutdown/dp/B00T7BYV6W something like this, but you have to check how many VA you need for your rig
If you go the path of a Raspi, use a power control circuit hat that makes it portable to an extent, make a large battery pack using your choice of battery media something like this but get a bigger battery, a USB wireless adapter with an external antenna port so you can get better reception.
Excellent suggestion, thank you!
Do you think an APC 600VA UPS would be good for 2 gaming PCs plus monitors, or should we go for something bigger like a 1000VA?
EDIT - thinking we'll just go with the 1500VA/900W unit to be safe.
EDIT 2 - lots of bad reviews citing problems with those APCs so now I'm looking at other options.
Did you calculate this based on the APC rating their 1350va unit at 810 watts, and a 50 minute runtime at 100w?
Specs here: https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-BackUPS-BX1350M/dp/B06WD82BM8/
So would there be no real benefit over having one NIC for the base system and one NIC for all the VMs?
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I havent heard of Mobaxterm or Terminus, Ill do some research into them at some point.
Money is kinda short for me, but Ive found a UPS for around £120
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002RL0CKI/ref=psdc_430442031_t4_B007VHDKNY
Does this seem ok?
I had a look at some rackmount ones but theyre all £200 upwards (more than im going to spend on the R710 itself)
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It doesnt really bother me not running ESXi on the latest version unless they made a massive change like making live VM migration free or something. I havent done too much research into the other hypervisors as I have mostly seen ESXi and thought that was the most popular. Though I may try all of them later down the road, perhaps on a second system (I just had a thought, could I run a virtualised instance of the other hypervisors in ESXi?)
​
From the little bit I have just seen, XCP looks pretty good.
​
Does this switch look decent?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-SG1024D-24-Port-Rackmount-Unmanaged/dp/B003UWXFM0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=rackmount+switch&qid=1555791974&s=computers&sr=1-4
I have found some of the same model cheaper on ebay and, with my very limited knowledge, this looks to be alright.
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Also, how would I go about distributing power from the UPS, surely 6 plugs wouldnt last long before needing to expand. I have seen some massive extension lead looking things with 20 plugs and stuff like that but I assume one small UPS wouldnt be able to power something like that.
If it is for just a modem try this one. We bought it for my wife's mother, who's in her 70s. She is in South Florida where it seems like a hard rain cuts the power every time. Since we got it for her, everyone in the family had bought one. They love that the battery can be removed for a phone charge.
APC Back-UPS Connect Lithium Ion UPS with Mobile Power Pack, USB Charging Ports for Echo and Network Routers (BGE50ML) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JHYQNC
Price drops to the $50s all the time, just keep an eye on it.
2+ hours of network backup and surge protection power keeps you connected to the internet during storms and outages
Convenient mobile charging via three USB ports, including a smart charging port that recognizes connected devices to maximize charging speed
Removable Lithium-Ion battery pack charges a smartphone five times before needing to recharge itself
When li-ion battery pack is removed, unit functions as a pass-through power source to connected devices. Battery Backup functionality is restored when battery pack is re-inserted back into the unit and recharges.
Two Rotating AC Outlets (3 prong-compatible)
I got this one for my project recently. Very good value. 55 watt load will last about 50 minutes.
I'd say use a UPS : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/aw/d/B002RL0CKI/ref=sspa_mw_detail_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KH07WRC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498345538&sr=1-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=small+ups&dpPl=1&dpID=41Di53n5qML&ref=plSrch
> You can ask COX about getting a drop into that room, but they probably won't do it for you unless you get TV service. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it, but I understand what you are saying.
Well, I need to get coax in there somehow to connect to the modem. I don't know if this is something I can do or not.
> I would get a PDU for your rack, it will simplify everything when you put it in, and it has a 10 foot cable. I have it run into my UPS and my UPS plugged into the wall.
I actually got a rack mountable UPS. I went with this one. I tried looking for the length of the cable but couldn't find it. I can always open the box and find out when I go over to the new house later. I still have no idea how to ground the rack.
I've got my cable modem, wifi router, NAS, and a 4 port switch along with all my "entertainment" stuff (TV, TiVo, Roku, UHD BluRay player) on this, but this is all I need if I just wanted to protect the "entertainment" stuff. You can go even smaller if it's just a few things. You won't get a long run time, but it's mostly to avoid surges, brownouts, and rapid powercycles.
What do you guys know about UPSs? I bought an 850w APC thats giving me issues. At first I had my stereo receiver, a 42" TV, my PC (750w PSU), my 28" monitor, and a USB hub all plugged into it and in the middle of the night it started beeping. one long continuous beep. then I unplugged everything but the PC, hub, and monitor and it was still doing it. seems it does it on start up too. I left everything off with the UPS plugged in and off (to charge, I guess) and it still did it. Any ideas?
Edit- sorry guys. It’s actually brad new. Only been using it a couple days
I got the older generation of this UPS for around $50 as a Lightning Deal to try out. A few months later I bought another one. A year after that I bought the new one.
Now I've got one for my NAS/Router/Modem. One for my TV/Stereo/HTPC. One for my Desktop/Printer. Total investment... around the cost of a last-years-model color wifi laser printer.
I don't have to worry about frying my sensitive electronics when (for example) the power surges during a severe thunder storm.
Half the time I only notice the power "flickered" because my oven clock is blinking.
Its called a UPS
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OTEZ5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1453497111&sr=1-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ups+surge+protector&dpPl=1&dpID=414ADvBUPeL&ref=plSrch
So, you can accomplish your task the way you want to, but lithium cells might not be the best choice. They aren't cheap and they don't like a lot of things basements/equipment spaces tend to have (moisture, heat and/or cold, etc). If you actually want to proceed, I would look at a li-poly battery as opposed to 18650s.
Do you have a 120v outlet nearby? If so, I have a few of these around the house to keep stuff from getting fried or otherwise hurt by voltage drops.
500+ va will be fine. A basic ups like this will work fine unless you need any extra features. https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-EC650LCD-Ecologic-Outlets-Compact/dp/B00DBAAJQ6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511888863&sr=8-4&keywords=650va+ups
I'd say you're better off with one of these that keeps the internet on even during an outage http://www.amazon.com/APC-BGE70-Back-UPS-3-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B00KH07WRC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
I bought mine for $19.99 a couple weeks ago but now they're $37 apparently but still a nice thing to have.
just buy a mini ups
$35
I got an APC UPS when my house lost power for a week. I took it to work during the day to charge it and it ran my CPAP all night. Make sure that it has a silence option since a UPS usually beeps when the power goes out.
I am not home to look at the model/capacity that I have, but it is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06VY12HW4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504128138&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=apc+ups&dpPl=1&dpID=41niizjQ19L&ref=plSrch
You gotta get yourself a UPS. Just bought mine:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XJLLKG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1