(Part 2) Best household battery chargers according to redditors
We found 1,026 Reddit comments discussing the best household battery chargers. We ranked the 172 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Rechargeable batteries? For my Xbox 360, these lasted me about 4 or 5 years! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XSBVMU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ZpYnybXYMPP7V
Also helpful when you need batteries for other things, too.
Have a look at Panasonic Eneloop batteries, they are designed to be used and abused and have almost zero self discharge.
Photographers love them for use in their flashes and other camera gear.
Grab a multi-pack plus a charger to go with it and you will be set for years (mine typically last about 5-6 years).
https://www.amazon.com/BK-4MCA24-CA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable/dp/B07CWWR6Z1?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_3446481011
https://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MH-C800S-8-Cell-Smart-Charger/dp/B000LQMKDS?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2530190011
I'm a fan of 18650's because they're field rechargeable off a solar panel, and can be used for power banking as well. My entire power kit revolves around them.
You can use rechargeable RCR123 batteries in your optics that won't fit an 18650. They run my vortex strikefire II just fine.
The cr 123's and 18650's are rechargeable with this or this, meaning they can be charged from any USB solar charger, wall adapter or car adapter. In addition, those chargers have an output side so you can use an 18650 to charge your phone or whatever.
Edit: There are also rechargeable versions of CR2 that the nitecore chargers should be able to handle as well.
The BLF A6 is still a good flashlight, especially for the price. IMO it's still hard to beat that bang for your buck. The next step up in bang for your buck is the Emisar D4. IMO, those two are pretty solid depending on your price point. You can pay hundreds of dollars for a single flashlight, but either of those are going to be an EXTREME upgrade if you are used to AA and AAA battery flashlights, and are very, very hard to beat in their price ranges. Those two can match a lot of lights that cost hundreds of dollars honestly
There are several styles. The main ones are
Headlamp - You wear them with a head band. Quite useful for camping, speulunking etc
Thrower - Throw light long distance, for when you want to light up a hillside a few hundred yards away
Flood - Spread light in a wide area at close range, for when you want to light up an entire room.
IMO, Flood are the more useful, but throw lights have their uses
A few things to note,
cheapest way to get the Q8
fastest way to the the Q8
really good and easy to use charger
my favorite 18650s. Note that lithium ion batteries aren’t a thing to skimp on, and many sites sell poor quality counterfeits.
Never skimp on batteries and chargers. Your set up is only as good as the weakest component and you definitely do not want that component to be the battery.
You should not be using Li-On batteries period. You should be using IMR (Sony VCT series, MXJO) or INR batteries (Samsung 25r). Rule of thumb for chargers is to avoid any brand with "Fire" in the name. Get a good Nitecore i2/i4 or Efest LUC 2/4.
Buy based on the results of the test http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-arizer-air.16415/page-64#post-713139
https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/2s7wib/arizer_air_has_shitty_battery_life_am_i_alone/
I bought these they work fine & [this charger] ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAX6FI8/ref=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1)
Im not sure if they give me longer sessions but if I'm out all day and one runs out I can just swap them easily
Anker battery packs are good. Depending on what mods your vapers use this might work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071P7RVNX/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 uses the same 18650s some vape mods use.
Get the extra battery (each one can get me through around 1.5 bowls), WPA piece (water pipe attachment that works better than the normal front end - less draw resistance) and an external charger. I recommend the nitecore D2 - the one I bought can be found here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LCHICAU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Enjoy your Hopper! Thing is amazing.
I went through 3 different brands of induction chargers. They all wear the batteries out very fast, and they all have intermittent problems with stopping/starting charging. They also drain insanely fast. Way faster than their man ratings would indicate that they should.
From my personal experiences, I've decided that induction charging is just not "there yet" at these low price points.
Get yourself some name brand rechargeable batteries, and charge them in a wall charger.
You can usually get 4 batteries and a charger form duracell for about $20, and then get 4 packs of batteries themselves for $10 - $15.
The benefit here is that once you get about 20 batteries in your home, you'll never need to buy batteries again (or at least for, say, another 10 years or so, tip they wear out)
NINJA EDIT:
4 pack of batteries, with charger on Amazon.com
4 pack of batteries, by themselves on Amazon.com
I would also add the Astrolux MF01 as an option. Get the Nichia version (better color accuracy, you can see better details).
It, like the Q8 also has a tri-pod mount, which would be IDEAL for late-night repairs/work. Get a cheap mini tripod, set the light wherever you want, and it'll illuminate your work area for quite a while.
That, and a decent charger like the XTAR VC-4 plugged into the truck and you'd be all set. Both the Q8 and the MF01 are "soda can lights" meaning they're about the size of a soda can. Easy enough to toss in a jacket pocket. The MF01 also has a lanyard hole, so you could attach a cord to it and clip it where you need it.
For my (future) sub ohm mech modders out there. Here is a quality setup that will allow you to rebuild to your heart's delight. I recommend a minimum of 4 batteries.
optional
I've got a couple of them.... I tested them to see if they'd be a decent product to bundle as an accessory with another product. For cost/performance reason - the results were no go.
From the description:
>”Green” as they are, however, recharging requires equipment that takes up space when you’re not using it. These batteries solve that problem.
While true, they solve this problem by adding a charger where you'd normally find a battery. The capacity is on these batteries is 1300mA. The lowest you can easily get for a "regular" NiMH rechargeable battery is 1500-2000mA, 2000 being more common.
To me, it doesn't make sense to add the cost of a charger to every single battery at the expense of battery capacity (which has long term consequences with respect to cycle life/depth of discharge). You can get higher capacity batteries with a charger for less money on amazon - and twice the number of batteries.
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I'm sure, however, there are usage cases where having a built in charger is desirable. These usage cases do not include TV remotes, wireless mice and keyboards are not those usage cases...
Honestly I'm not sure that eneloops have changed that much. They went from claiming 1800 recharge cycles to 2100 or something, but really who's going to be able to tell that difference...
Now they offer these Eneloop XX or Eneloop Pro models, which best I can tell are the same thing with different marketing attached. Those have about 20% higher capacity (more life between charges), but only recharge 500 times (so an 80% reduction in lifetime). And they cost about 25% more. Its important to note that they're all the same voltage so your flashlight won't be brighter, it'll just last 20% longer between charges.
Personally I don't find the capacity of standard Eneloops to be too low for my usage. Just keep a fresh set charged and ready to swap in. And the 80% reduction in total product lifetime isn't worth the 20% increase in per-charge capacity, in my opinion. I'm still buying the normal Eneloops, which usually means the 2100-cycle batteries just cause they're newer and easier to find.
As for a charger, the Nitecore i4 McFarlie recommended is always a great choice. Its a really good charger for $20 - can't beat that. Personally I went for the Nitecore D4 because its got even more charging options and its only ten bucks more or so, but honestly I only use that for my li-ion batteries. I use eneloop AAs and AAAs in lots of things around my house - literally dozens and dozens of them - so I keep a Maha 8-position charger stocked with 4-AAs and 4-AAAs at all times. Its not nearly as flexible as my Nitecore D4 but I like the convenience of not having to worry about all those eneloops I've got floating around the house. Plus I can leave this one in a common area, the laundry room in my case, and my kids can do their own battery swapping without bothering me. Worth it to me, but not necessary. You can do everything you need to do with that i4 you've already been recommended.
Something like this www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9TUL8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IwTzCbGQ7MBAR would probably suit your needs, with adjustable sliders.
I agree with almost everything OP said, but I think the F2 charger is betterlink here . It can also act as a powerbank to charge a phone off of your 18650 if need be. Certainly a 4 cell charger would be nice for a 4 cell light, but if these are going to sit dormant for long periods of time, taking the time to charge 2 cells at a time matters less. Similarly, this can charge off of usb meaning if you have an anker solar panel or similar phone charging device you can use it to charge your flashlight. With the other setups, you need 110v ac to be up and working.
My Pick
Your Charger and Your Battery
Is it this one?
folomov a1
Illumn.com, liionwholesale.com, mtnelectronics.com. Can't go wrong with any of them. I've also heard mostly good things about IMRbatteries.com.
As for chargers, Liitokala is well regarded as producing great chargers for the price point. I've been enjoying my Liitokala Lii-500, a 4-bay charger that handles a wide variety of cells and has analyzing functions to help keep track of the health of your cells and help ensure they're genuine. Can charge all four bays at 0.3, 0.5, 0.75, or 1A.
It's $21.39 at Banggood (if you can wait a couple weeks for delivery), or $28.90 at Amazon.
If you don't need analyzing function, the Liitokala Lii-402 is also good. Xtar also makes great chargers for the money, and they can be found at Illumn, Liionwholesale, Mtn Electronics, and IMR batteries, so if you order your batteries from any of those sites, you can get the charger at the same time and save on shipping.
Sounds on par with mine. I've already replaced them three times since release day.
Arm yourself with a set of rechargeable batteries and you'll be good to go.
I use these.
I'm pretty new to my MFLB, but I find that 1 battery for two people is enough (a battery lasts ~1.5 to 2 trenches). I don't have the adapter, but I've heard that it's really good if you're mostly smoking inside. Personally, I value the flexibility of batteries over the reliability of adapters, so I ordered extra batteries and a bigger charging station.
You want something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721JP6FK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ATZeAb7PG8JTA
I have a similar model that I use to charge my 18650s with over USB output solar.
There are 3 basic rechargable lithium chemistry batteries out there currently
LiPo: Lithium Polymer
LiOn: Lithium Ion
LiFe: Lithium Iron (something). This is a special lithium battery that sacrifices capacity and voltage for safety. You can put a nail through one of these batteries and it won't explode or catch fire. They are almost ALWAYS in metal cylindrical casings.
Now. As far as regular battery chargers for consumer batteries, I recommend the (relabeled by countless companies) Nitecore one.
It's insanely popular on message boards dealing with consumer electronics, high end flash lights, and the like. It's a great, great item at a decent price point.
It comes in 2 versions, a 2 bay and a 4 bay charger.
2-bay charger (I2): http://www.amazon.com/NiteCore-IntelliCharger-i2-Charger-charging/dp/B009JMDD9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397224760&sr=8-1&keywords=Nitecore+charger
4-bay charger (i4): http://www.amazon.com/NITECORE-Intellicharge-universal-EdisonBright-converters/dp/B00GODG3X0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1397224760&sr=8-3&keywords=Nitecore+charger
It does not do 9v rechargeable batteries, but most chargers that do (that are consumer grade chargers) sacrifice everything to do so. It also does not do D-cell batteries, but a 2 dollar battery holder fixes that problem quickly. You put the D-cell batteries in the battery holder, then run wires to the charger. There is no functional difference between C and D batteries for most applications.
Hell, MOST D-CELL BATTERIES HAVE AN AA cell IN THE MIDDLE AND FILLER. An actual AA battery in the D-cell casing. I have plastic versions of that, so that you can use high capacity AA batteries in D and C-cell devices.
I recommend going that route for those batteries.
AA to D cell converter/adapter: http://www.amazon.com/eneloop-SEC-DSPACER4PK-Spacers-battery-cells/dp/B002V8C3W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397224984&sr=8-1&keywords=D+cell+converter
AA to C cell converter/adapter: http://www.amazon.com/eneloop-SEC-CSPACER4PK-Spacers-battery-cells/dp/B002V88HFE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397225050&sr=8-2&keywords=eneloop+c+converter
Those are eneloop brand, which is an extremely high end rechargable battery company. Their cells are relabeled and have been for over 5 years by Duracell, Energizer, and countless more.
Even Apple's rechargeable AA battery system uses relabeled Eleloop batteries! 30 bucks for 2 4 AA's and a charger is ridiculous when straight-labeled Eneloops are half that price.
The Eneloop adapters are the best I've ever used. Most cheap battery adapters are so flimsy they break inserting the damn battery.
I would stay with AA batteries and use the cell adapters. As it is, a high quality rechargeable AA has more capacity than MOST ALKALINE C and D sized batteries to begin with.
I hope this helped! The chargers I linked will do from AAA to C, up to 18650 and 26650 INDUSTRIAL LIPO cells. It's a GREAT charger that will do everything you need it to, faster and far better than anything you'll buy at Best Buy or Walmart.
Seriously. Buy that charger, some Eneloops, and never worry about it again.
I don't use rechargable 9v's but I'm probably going to have to soon!
If I have 4 Eneloop Pros and 4 Eneloops (regular) can I charge them at the same time on my 8 capacity charger even though they have different mAh ratings? If it matters I have the MAHA MH-C800S charger
Nitecore and Xtar typically come well recommended. If you want to spend less try the Nitecore D2.
I got these EBL rechargeables on Amazon for an ok price (they're even cheaper now) and so far they've been pretty good. Not perfect, but none of these things last forever anyway, and these seem like a good value if the numbers aren't too fudged. And they DO seem to perform well, outputting a higher voltage longer than I'm used too for rechargeables. They stay closer to 1.4v for longer than I expected. Tho I haven't tried many other brands to base that off of. heh
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NND3LZW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_bLvOybM2YPW8H these rechargeable AA batteries are what I use
If anyone can save me some research, I'm looking for a plug-in recharger I can use with my arizer batteries so I can rotate them instead of using the device to charge.
[edit] ok I gues I could have searched for 2 seconds, looks like this would do it.
This is a much better price and deal:
https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Battery-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00M2RA8XS/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1498491956&sr=1-4&keywords=ebl%2Brechargeable%2Bbatteries&th=1
I use these, have used these for years and they are great. You are getting 8 batteries + charger for 2 bucks less.
Make sure you pick the 8 AA batteries. Also these are 2800 vs 2500.
If you want to stick with stock motors, imr cells will work fine. But those are icr, not imr. most use aw or efest cells. the nitecore I series chargers are what alot of people recommend, though i prefer the luc series. Both are good.
If you decide to go with rhino motors, a pack is going to be the way you want to go. 14500 cells just don't have the amperage to handle them properly or safely.
I'm currently using a Liitokala Lii-500. It's one of the cheapest decent quality analyzing charger, and it'll do a fine job on your Nimh cells as well. Anything by Xtar or Nitecore is good as well, though most of the Nitecore models are fairly slow. You can pay extra for a much faster charger, but fast-charging your cells can reduce their lifetimes. It's probably more significant for vapers than flashlight nerds, in my experience. This XTAR would also serve you well, as would this quality but cheap model.
Here is an alternative Li-on, that I think would ship to Europe. The charger is a smart charger and charges each of the 4 channels independently, and turns green when completed. These are actually higher capacity (I assume since the charging circuit is external) 2000mAh.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163536869130
More info/reviews on Amazon:
KENTLI® CHU4 USB Charger with 4 x 1.5v 3000mWh lithium li-polymer li-ion AA rechargeable batter for LED falshlight Digital camera Microphone (with 4*AA batteries) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CZV0ZYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t6jUCb8K4WRR4
I use the same batteries. They're great for Xbox One controllers, because they have a higher mAh rating than the regular Eneloops, although they can't be recharged as many times (they can still be recharged hundreds of times though, so they will last years).
A smart charger does everything for you, so you pop 1 or more batteries into it, it'll charge them, then stop once they're fully charged.
If you have a bunch of rechargeable batteries of different types, I can highly recommend this charger: -
http://www.amazon.com/XTAR-Charger-Lithium-ion-Batteries-Authentic/dp/B010J9GE5G
It has a fast charging rate, can charge all kinds of different batteries, and everything is fully automatic. It only has 1 button on it, which turns the display on/off and switches the display between different banks of batteries.
However, the charger you've linked to is absolutely fine if you only need one for AA batteries.
> but at that rate I'm better off charging my batteries with my diesel's alternator
Yep. I frequently ask people on this sub why they think solar is so important when they're driving around in something that generates electricity already. Solar is expensive. It doesn't work in Seattle except for three weeks in August. Unless you're in the desert southwest, you need to have sufficient battery capacity for multiple days without sun which means you need an even bigger solar panel array to recharge that battery pack on the 2 sunny days during a two week period of overcast and showers.
Unless the van is parked somewhere for days and days without moving, just charge the house battery from the alternator. Even if it's parked on a sunny day, there's a huge incentive to park it in the shade to prevent the interior temps from killing anyone inside.
Using the alternator is easy. The absolute brute force, quick-n-dirty, cheap way is to run a #2 or #4 gauge wire from the positive terminal of your your van's battery to the positive terminal of your house battery through a simple switch and a high capacity (100A) fuse.
Under $10 crude switch from any auto parts store: https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS/ You use this to 'disconnect' the wire between the batteries when you park. This prevents that 60W fan you're running 24/7 from running down your starter battery. Get a better switch as your budget allows.
Better is an 'isolation relay' - there are two basic kinds. The inexpensive kind https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JCX8OY/ requires that you also find a 12v power source that goes active when your ignition is turned on. This powers the relay to connect your house battery to the alternator/starting battery. It's not a big deal, but possibly a small hassle. Any Napa, Reibes, Pep-Boys, Autozone, etc auto parts place will have one.
Or, an automatic type that senses when the voltage on your starter battery rises due to the alternator and then automatically connects your house battery so it gets charged, too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ You take the 12v cable from your van battery to one terminal. The 12V from your house battery to the 2nd terminal. And, the last terminal goes to ground.
BTW, I wasn't trying to 'burn you' but rather put some realism into your needs. At least you didn't mention electric heater or electric air conditioning like some folks do. For heating or cooking, gas/propane is the practical way to go. (There are some great, BUT EXPENSIVE, diesel heaters that can tap into your van's fuel system).
For air conditioning, there isn't any van-sized alternative other than a gas powered generator or an electrical outlet near the van.
Good choice on the fridge. And, you're right - it's not a 'now' sort of requirement.
Those battery powered LED things last forever. If you haven't bought any yet, try to get ones with diffusers - intentionally stay away from the brightest ones you can find. The issue is that in the small confines of a van, they just sear burn marks in your retinas. 'dimmer is better' I have these - multi brightness, magnetic stick on to my van's metal interior: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H731UNS/
I got the non-rechargeable ones but use Amazon Basics Eneloop- equivalent rechargeable AAA batteries: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-AAA-Rechargeable-Batteries-12-Pack/dp/B007B9NXAC/ and a USB recharger for them sort of like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZ6V99U/
I have one of these. You do not want this 2 ft from your eyes in a van: https://www.amazon.com/BUYGO-11-LED-Outdoor-Lantern-Camping/
A cheap (free) source of 18650 cells are laptop power packs. You can disassemble them and re-use the still working cells. The cells will have mediocre capacity and some will not work anymore. The cells are unprotected, that means they may ignite when overloaded (short circuit) or overcharged with a bad charger.
My preferred charger is the XTar VC4 ($25). I like its simple, but informative display and simple usage. Drop in a cell and it will charge.
I think it is important to buy a good charger, it will stay with you for years. If you have requirements for reliability or long runtime, then good quality cells are important too. But cells do wear out and suffer with age. The charger much less so.
They are about the same price but with the vamo you need to get batteries and a charger, the plus being you have replaceable batteries. The MVP has a built in/non replaceable battery.
I assume the AA and AAA cells you are talking about are lithium-ion as well? I searched for AA and AAA lithium-ion batteries before I even found out about the 18650 and had little luck finding any. I did find these which seem to work really good for short time but when I have the flashlight on for a while they start to get hot so I was concerned with the safety of them.
I have done the VV/VW mods and now just got a mech mod. I am loving the mech mod and wish that I did not waste so much money with all the other stuff.
With the mech mod, if you need control of your wattage you can always add a kick for super cheap. But honestly, I am enjoying controlling my "heat" (wattage) with the coils I build. You can use the following calculator to easily find this out: http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp
For $80 I got a mod, RDA, RBA, 2x batteries, charger, and accessories all from FastTech & Amazon. If you willing to wait the shipping (2 - 3 weeks for me) it is well worth it.
Hope this helps give you an idea. Let me know if you have any questions.
For safe shut downs, charging warnings, and charging status - Adafruit PowerBoost 1000 Charger - Rechargeable 5V Lipo USB Boost @ 1A - 1000C-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMRBTH2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Shell used-Gametown® Full Housing Shell Cover Case Pack with Screwdriver for Nintendo Gameboy Classic/Original GB DMG-01 Repair Part-White (pick whatever color you want)-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1C2L1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Screen used- BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor For Car/Automobile – purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (side note here is that in order to make this fit nicer, I installed it upside down in the case.
Speak used - uxcell 16pcs 27mm External Magnetic Speaker Loudspeaker 8 Ohm 0.25W, purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010V4RAAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (do not put ANYTHING on the top of the speaker when you install or it will not work.
Prototyping bread board, I purchased from amazon but it is no longer available at the link.
I used this PCB for the buttons on 1 build, the drill guide is VERY useful for this project. - 4 Button PCB For Gameboy DMG-01DIY Pi Zero Made In USA With Grounds and Hole Guide BY:Atomic Market, purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKJCQVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
L-R buttons- 100 Pcs 6 x 6mm x 9.5mm PCB Momentary Tactile Tact Push Button Switch 4 Pin DIP, purchased at amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008420WOA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
28 Gauge Wire - Ribbon Cable - 10 Wire (15ft), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R9SQQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I recommend going to a smaller (higher) gauge than 28. 30 or 32 would have made it a lot easer but 28 will do.
Indicator lights, Uxcell a11092800ux0119 Uxcell (Pack of 75), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0TCXSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (these are totally optional)
Resistors and capicitors (audio), purchased from https://www.taydaelectronics.com Note: heres the guide I used for the audio too! https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=480
Old Gameboy game cartridge. For aesthetics.
Headphone jack, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Socket-Audio-Jack-5Pin-PCB-Panel-Mount-Connector-PJ325-/400959590673
Volume wheel, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-B103-16x2mm-10K-Ohm-Double-Dial-Taper-Volume-Wheel-Duplex-PotentiometerBS/293146992835?epid=11009192051&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4440ec20c3:g:NZkAAOSw3h1ZUavq&enc=AQAEAAAB0BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUCHDbWKwW7sKftQNu9OoIx7SAZoMMNoO7ZC%2BQU2m6tHizIeixg2Hdk8yQin%2B7yNcIdtTzT%2FneqdaLt1WntvDDMDNnZ9%2BCyBsPWRiKLCNPKdeaaZNnBjMoVA%2F0tK%2BtG7DVLtcUKV1a4ZUD8%2F3Lgu9eesPLoBiXZs77Vo7R%2FDaZVMV%2FquPTyLO%2FBFipuEkim1t7BIMiLOi2P3Z31r4yxIdLUw6SCVesvVeqBQuoKov776Dxzk8pUY7PZvu4Q3ULnqBWmlWXsKXc8iAp9juNxUBFHnDgW6A7iElTGYe0sQRXfFHW73jI62f5aO%2FnqGANNK%2F7KJlu474aR3Gae9%2FJCT%2FwoLqmBb4FfizrUJ6qKEuVeLAi31kJSoJXIv4msi3r0bMNSm2D7FL5DUBr0Bc4xsSPi7KFWI9AhmQjUn%2FsLVysgEKd8QEildi1DULaVOX11bv95PGoXvfAusYXSi5NQZk4oZJHr6QIjXu5w4e9Nd2lFtmG4ZB%2BkqROOwwliad72iafj6cbSLphBAjtWGZQVNbmcdKXG6S8h7cTVqt0aD4oej7%2BlDVihmo%2BV0Rc2MhA9FgkM%2BcyzPd0qc9vHvdxjpQUq&checksum=2931469928353c744c25da8843a496116014d4766745
Micro SD card (16 GB minimum)
Female Micro usb Port, (I know I did buy these but I can’t find the link. I bought female micro usb ports to make charging easier.)
I want to say this is the battery that I used, specifically because after taking the shell off it was the perfect fit inside of a gutted Gameboy Game cartridge-https://www.bestbuy.com/site/mycharge-razorplus-4000mah-portable-charger-for-most-usb-enabled-devices-silver/6292246.p?skuId=6292246
3d printed button wells-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-button-wells/
Extra buttons-https://www.retromodding.com/collections/gameboy
Screw bracket-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-screw-bracket/
I got A LOT of buttons, glass screen shields, the other three builds button PCBs, some stickers, seriously a lot of stuff from https://store.kitsch-bent.com/ his store is unfortunately closed as he has had life catch up to him and has some shit to attend to. If he comes back online show him some love.
Stuff I got from kitsch
PCB board with LR input points
Buttons for X/Y (you can opt to just get replacement snes or an extra set of Gameboy buttons.
Glass screen that fit the GB shell after removing extra plastic
And obviously you should have a pi zero/w as well a shit ton of patience.
Personally, I use Duracell rechargeables. They work quite well and can usually get several days of long play out of them. They work without issue in all of my other devices also. According to Amazon, I've had the oldest set for six years and they still work plenty well. (I have enough batteries to have them in rotation, so that might be three years of use for anyone else.)
While I imagine most rechargeables will be fine, I'd suggest steering clear of Energizer. In my experience, they only function well in tight battery sockets. In the spring-loaded Xbox 360 controllers, they will randomly shut off.
I recently got these which are 2800mAh with a charger and cases for 8. Someone on here posted them a little bit back. The plastic wrapping also isnt glued to the battery so you just peel it off and you're good to go, no cleaning or anything else.
^ Basically came to post this. LEDs have mostly swept away the other lighting methods- with the possible exception of oil lanterns, which can sit for decades and be ready for use.
You can cobble together an entire solar + battery + charger + flashlight system for $100-150 USD, if you shop around online (which isn't bad, if you buy an item or two here and there). I will also vouch for Anker, they make really good charging gear.
You might consider a USB battery charger. Charges AAA and AA nimh batteries individually. I have a similar arrangement with the battery and solar panel, but still prefer using standard battery sizes for flashlights and radios. Makes it easier to find batteries anywhere, and the charger makes it so I can keep rechargeables topped off.
To marry batteries, You have to always charge them at the same time (relatively) and use them at the same time, never mis match batteries and make sure they are the same brand and specs. If you charge them and discharge them at the same time that is what makes them married. If you have not been doing that then you need to buy new batteries and make sure to always charge them and use them at the same times. I don't know much about that charger but seems a bit cheap, It could be perfectly fine I just don't have experience. I have the same mod and tank as you and this is the charger and batteries I use (I'm not from he UK so sorry if these links don't work I tried) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nitecore-D2-DigiCharger-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B00KSJ4ARC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1472894361&sr=8-4&keywords=nitecore and I use two of these batteries https://www.amazon.co.uk/Efest-18650-2500-Genuine-Battery/dp/B0183AM5JM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472894437&sr=8-2&keywords=efest+vape Again, I'm not from the UK so I'm not sure is these links will work make sure to let me know. If there are any questions just keep them coming and I'll try my best to answer them.
I ended up buying this charger from Vapenw https://www.amazon.com/XTAR-VC4-Lithium-ion-Batteries-Authentic/dp/B010J9GE5G
I should have everything in hand on Thursday.
Duracell rechargable duralock dc2450
https://www.amazon.ca/Duracell-Rechargeable-Long-Life-Batteries/dp/B00007ISWA/ref=pd_cp_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DHHXWDREQF3BRQMV7EPD
http://www.amazon.com/Efest-Charger-Digital-Battery-Readout/dp/B00GK7JMJ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397937494&sr=8-1&keywords=efest+luc
http://www.vaporpedia.com/wiki/Magic-Flight_Launch_Box
"
How does the Launch Box vaporize?
When asked to explain how the Launch Box heats up, FC member OF provided this response:
That one's easy, it's them little bitty electrons, right?
Current (orderly flow of electrons in one direction) comes down the negative rod to where it's 'welded' to the mesh of the screen. Notice how the screen wires run straight across (at least half do)? The current then splits into one of the few hundred paths available to the other rod and then back to the positive of the battery (where they join in a chemical reaction that 'pumps' the electrons around the circuit). As 'pressure is lost' (that's voltage to us), power in the form of heat happens. Since about .75 Volts makes it to the mesh (the rest is lost in the battery and connections) that number (in Volts) times the current (15 Amps nominally) gives us the delivered power in Watts. A bit over 11 Watts in our case, the same general level as Omicron for instance. "Log vapes" run about 8 Watts.
All the useful work is done by the side to side wires in the mesh, the front to back ones are there for mechanical support only.
The key is the stainless steel of the mesh. It a poor conductor (high resistance relatively) and is really tiny in cross section. A lot goes into that material selection.
"
.75 V at mesh from the excerpt at Vaporpedia. I also measured about .75V with my voltmeter during operation.
The internal battery resistance @1khz for a duracell nimh battery is about 20 mOhm which is given here. It's 1kHz but since were operating at DC well just say this is the internal resistance at DC because it's close enough.
http://ww2.duracell.com/media/en-US/pdf/gtcl/Product_Data_Sheet/NA_DATASHEETS/DC1500%20NiMh-%202450mAH-AA.pdf
Even with this shitty nimh the math checks out and the current produced is 22.5 A.
http://imgur.com/7bpkQ0B
Now if you want to use a fully charged battery at 1.35 V then the current will be higher. Then if you want to use a non shitty nimh with even lower internal resistance like the glyph batteries the current will be even higher.
Using these high currents does kill the batteries faster but no one gives a shit since they cost about $10 / 4 = $2.5 dollars each and last about 6 months or a year.
http://www.amazon.com/Duracell-Rechargeable-Batteries-Count-Packaging/dp/B00007ISWA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1397465536&sr=8-4&keywords=duracell+nimh
This. I've had them since I got my xbox in 08. They're wonderful.
Or NiMH - I have a set like this which has lasted years so far!
I wouldn't order that from fasttech, you can get better quality stuff from us suppliers for a little more and have it in a week. hcigar nemesis is $30 from 101 vape when in stock or $40 elsewhere and better than the fasttech one. That fasttech patriot is 20mm I believe, you can get a nicer tobeco 22mm patriot on ebay for $17 shipped or so (I just got two, 101vape also has them). Get sony VTC4 batteries- sun vapers has them in stock for $10 right now. you can get a nitecore i2 with amazon prime for the same price as fasttech.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Patriot-Clone-Rebuildable-Dripping-Atomizer-Tobeco-RBA-RDA-Stainless-/171251225859?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27df5e5503
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nemesis-2-Tone-Clone-HCigar-Atmomixani-Mechanical-Mod-Vape-Vapor-/181336359158?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a387d40f6
http://www.sun-vapers.com/buy/sony-18650-vtc4/
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ
or an i4: http://www.amazon.com/NITECORE-Intellicharge-universal-EdisonBright-converters/dp/B00GODG3X0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393724004&sr=8-2&keywords=nitecore+i4
Any rechargeable battery is good. I use these duracell ones and they have yet to let me down or need to be charged since I bought them last November, granted I don't play every day. Just keep in mind, the larger the mAH, the less charges it holds, though they still are pretty close in lifespan in the end.
First off, sorry, I'm on mobile.
Well, to get you started, the first thing you need to know is Ohms law. This will basically tell you the safe limits you can push a battery to. I wouldn't recommend a mechanical mod myself BUT it's always good to know. I would recommend a regulated mod so that you're relatively safe, at least at the start.
Unfortunately, to power big builds, you probably want a mod that does over 100W, even for some tanks like the TFV8, that's not much. The Smok R200 is a good choice and I used one for months and it was always reliable. The Temperature Control isn't the best but it works.
For an RDA, you want something with a deck that's easy to build on so something like the Mutation X V5 has a two post deck which is the easiest to build on. The side and top airflow means unless you drip too much liquid inside.
Batteries like the Samsung 25R are solid favourites so if you want to make sure you always have power, get 4 of them.
To charge the batteries, you probably only need a 2 bay charger. You'll always have 2 in the mod. Nitecore are probably the most popular. The Nitecore D2 will show you all the information you need to know about where they are up to with their charge, voltage, whatever.
To start with, rather than buying a full kit to build coils, you could try pre made coils. I started out with these pre-made Claptons and then when I knew I liked dripping, I bought this coil building kit and some kanthal wire.
To wick, you'll need cotton and this Muji cotton is kind of standard. Enough there to last for a very long time.
There are plenty of tutorials for how to wick on YouTube and the best method is probably the Scottish Roll. It's a good technique which lasts for a while. It will take you a lot of practice to get it right but it pays off.
That's a lot of typing so if there's anything else, just ask.
You're welcome
EBL Rechargeable AA Batteries 2300mAh Long Lasting Battery (8 Counts) with Battery Charger for AA AAA Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0148675WM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q57hDbG3BNNWH
nope, it's a coaxial barrel type power connector, but I never charge the unit, I have a battery charger like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Battery-Charger-Rechargeable-Technology/dp/B01D9TUL8Y) and just keep a charged one with me. don't put the batteries in your pocket though!
other info, hmm, I dunno I use it kinda carelessly, I ripped the lid part off right away and tossed it, I keep a shorty stem in it at all times, only once did it drop from my hoodie pocket onto cement and broke the stem, I got a few cheap replacements, no big whoop. I've dropped it hard probably 3 times now, and it has never shown any issues from the drops. still works the same as day one.
edit to add: I love that the body is metal, and there's only one button, very simple, very utilitarian.
So after a long research, I found out that the voltage REALLY is the issue. I found out about a brand called KENTLI that makes rechargeable batteries that output 1.5v, been testing them and after 9 hours of use (divided in 3 sessions of 3 hours each), the controller still hasn't turned off a single time. I hope this helps.
dude.... use a stryfe with a worker update kit. use imr batteries.
I get up to 140 fps with this setup.
https://www.amazon.com/Worker-Straight-Flywheel-Update-Rapidstrike/dp/B071NSNDLZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518136684&sr=8-1&keywords=worker+update+kit
https://www.amazon.com/NITECORE-battery-Charger-EdisonBright-batteries/dp/B00GODG3X0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-EFEST-IMR-14500-Li-Mn-700maH-HIGH-DRAIN-Rechargeable-Battery-3-7V-BUTTON-TOP/231241593777?epid=2256029966&hash=item35d712b3b1:g:iiYAAOxyNo9SsWeM
you will need to rewire and cut the shell, but it is worth it.
FOLOMOV A1 Magnetic USB Li-ion Battery Charger with Charging/Discharging POWER BANK Function Max Current 1000mA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFSNBKJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v1eDDbNMZKPCX
Works as an emergency power bank too
My girlfriend picked up a pair of Duracel Rechargables for us and they've been working great.
If you prefer the Microsoft route it's always reliable.
Or the ever popular Eneloop Rechargables
All 3 of those options last quite a long time, I've only tried the Duracel's but they've been fantastic for such a cheap price.
Yes, there are lots of vendors who provide 0 nic juice. But your hookah has nicotine, so you might enjoy something like superlow 0.1% or 1mg/ml.
Anyway, to get hookah experience you'll need max VG juice, it can be drawn straight to lungs, and some powerfull hardware to get heating going. Without paying a lot the only easy road is mechanical mods (meaning without electronic boards in them) and dripping atomizer. You'll need to research Ohm's law and battery safety. That's like most important things, so you don't blow your face off. Here is the list of what you'll need.
That will outmatch hookah by a wide margin.
Will this one work ok? A Nitecore D2. Or does it need to be fancier or do something more than this one?
https://www.amazon.ca/Nitecore-D2-Digicharger-Universal-2-Channel/dp/B00KSJ4ARC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497332798&sr=1-3&keywords=nitecore+d2
Thanks for you help!
It works okay, doesnt stick out at all. I did find that switching to regular AA rechargeables was less annoying and less expensive however.
I say this because for the same money as a play and charge kit I was able to buy 8 rechargeables and a charger; I dont have to recharge them as often, its very convenient to be able to switch them out on the fly rather than having to tether in everytime my controller dies, and the xbox seems to give me more warning when my batteries are low. i.e. with play and charge it notified me maybe 60 seconds before a battery fail compared to about 10 minutes with rechargeables.
Amazon is a great place to buy them if you do consider AA rechargeables
Edit: a link to the one I bought
https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Battery-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B0148675WM/
Vs Microsoft play and charge
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Official-Xbox-Charge-Packaging/dp/B00CM1KU82/
Duracell - Rechargeable AA Batteries - long lasting, all-purpose Double A battery for household and business - 4 count https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00007ISWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2eT3Cb9G1P9TR
Or spend less and get 2x batteries with longer life per charge. https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Battery-8-Counts-Rechrgeable-Batteries/dp/B00NND3LZW/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=ebl+aa+rechargeable+battery&qid=1551318132&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-9-catcorr
The [Sawyer Mini water filter] (http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/) is smaller, can be screwed onto standard disposable plastic water bottles, and is capable of filtering far more water since you can reuse it. If you pick up a [stainless steel water bottle] (http://www.amazon.com/Klean-Kanteen-40oz-Classic-Loop/dp/B0093IRPSA/), you can boil water in it as well.
You should always have a backup when it's a survival situation; [Israeli water purification tablets] (http://www.amazon.com/Taharmayim-Israeli-Water-Purification-Tablets/dp/B0077TB65U/) will both look legit and be legit if she actually needs to use them.
There are always more items you might add to a first aid kit, but [this one is pretty well rounded] (http://www.amazon.com/Adventure-Medical-Kits-Weekender-Kit/dp/B000G7YIL4/). If you want a cheaper base kit (i.e if you want to add your own items), [this other kit] (http://www.amazon.com/Adventure-Medical-Kits-Tripper-First/dp/B0033B4I9C/) will also do the job.
Battery-free lights can be good, but AA batteries are common enough that a [good tactical light that takes AAs] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006O4CELO) might be a more convenient option.
If she has a tablet (if tablet, go for the 12W) or E-reader (7W), [solar power might be an option] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F3LPODY). With [rechargeable AA batteries] (http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3MCCA8BA-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSN5I) and a [USB recharger] (http://www.amazon.com/SunJack-Battery-Charger-Ni-Mh-Batteries/dp/B00PZ6V99U/), the flashlight and any other AA device (like a [small, separate radio] (http://www.amazon.com/Sony-ICF-S10MK2-Pocket-Radio-Silver/dp/B00020S7XK)) could work indefinitely, as well as any regular USB-charged device.
[ResQme] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IE0F12/) may not be strictly zombie-related, but if you buckled up as per Rule #4, you may want a way to quickly exit your vehicle if your seatbelt jams and the windows and door won't open normally.
There are a lot of compasses out there, but [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/Suunto-SS012063013-A-10-Compass/dp/B000FEXZGW) is simple, reliable, and won't break easily. It's also designed to be laid over maps without getting in the way of reading them.
[Pocket chainsaw] (http://www.amazon.com/Chainmate-CM-24SSP-24-Inch-Survival-Pocket/dp/B0026OOS60). Won't be useful against zombies, but if you ever needed to cut a tree or thick branches and don't want to carry an axe...
...You can also carry a [hatchet] (http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-78506935-X7-Hatchet-14-Inch/dp/B0002YTO7E/) instead. This one has a short blade, which will cut into their heads and not get stuck like others. It'll also do a fine job cutting smaller branches.
For non-zombie/woodwork related tasks, the [Victorinox Forester] (http://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Army-Grip-Series/dp/B003EH82TC/) has your bases covered.
You should also include World War Z (the book, and the movie if you'd prefer), I Am Legend (both the book and the film), and the Walking Dead series (TV, comics, and both seasons of the Telltale game series on Steam).
Subox Mini from VapeSuperSaver you can also battery bundled (Samsung 25R is what I use). I'd recommend the horizontal coils as they have better airflow. I use 1.2s. They also have them on the same website here. Get the battery from the same site and maybe a Nitecore charger. I have an i2 and it works just fine but the one I linked is Prime.
it would need at least detailed sharp, pics of both sides of the board and clear picture or schematics of the wiring.
OTOH, you do get what you pay for. Is $60 too much for being sure that your house doesn't burn down because of a cheaply made junker? Fixing the problems in the cheap one would likely cost more than that.
Finally, a much better solution than these chargers is to buy a normal fast charger for 4-8 AA cells. Some of those chargers will charge a pack in 60 minutes, there were even some that did it in 15 (but those needed special type of NiMh cells).
E.g. something like this:
https://www.vapextech.co.uk/fast-smart-charger-for-1-8-aa-or-aaa-nimh-batteries-lcd-display-vapextech/
That has both fast charging, detection of a faulty battery and trickle charge maintenance, so that the batteries are always topped up and ready to go. That is vastly more capable than the charger you have found and costs about the same.
Or this one - a bit more expensive but the charging time doesn't increase with the number of batteries inserted:
https://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MH-C800S-8-Cell-Smart-Charger/dp/B000LQMKDS
Yes, I get it that replacing batteries is a pain in the backside compared to just plunking the remote on a charger but you get much better life out of the batteries by separately charging each cell.
This is a really solid and pretty affordable option. 4 ports is all you should need, and in the case of you getting a VTC mini, I'd recommend getting one just to cover your bases and make sure you never run out of batteries, and to prepare in the (likely) case you get another mod or two (or fucking five, in my case).
If you don't wanna shell out for the 4-port, here's the same thing just with two ports.
And in case you were worried, chargers are fine to buy from Amazon. Batteries, however, are not, and should be bought from sites made specifically for that purpose (e.g. www.illumn.com)
U/mayday is correct. ir is inaccurate in most chargers. For an example i use ir as a baseline for my laptop pulls. If 5 of the 6 cells are around 60, and one is 150, I will recycle the highest one. If you Keep an eye on the ir as the cell ages, you will know when its nearing end of useful life. Again the number it shows is inaccurate but it works Well for me, especially at under 30$.
Liitokala lii-500 is a charger that handles from aaa-26650(will fit unprotected 21700 too) and gives you an idea of ir, as well as capacity of the cell. I've been very happy with mine. . you can get it cheaper off bg or GB or ae though.
https://www.amazon.com/LiitoKala-Lii-500-Battery-charger-capacity/dp/B073R7VCMZ/ref=asc_df_B073R7VCMZ?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2161717967668315578&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9058771&hvtargid=aud-801738734305:pla-570008462571&psc=1
Best 14500 IMRs are Windyfire. Crappy name, great 14500 battery. Efest and AW also good for 14500 sizes.
Note that there are many different versions of each, even by the same manufacturer.
Good 18650s are different from good 14500s.
Nitecore D4
Will also charge Ni-MH, Ni-CD, and LiFePO4
What are you charging them on? We talking 8hrs on one of these or one of these?
your AA charger might be able to charge other battery types, it should say on the thing, hopefully molded in the plastic. AA output 1.5v, 18650s are 3.7v, so you've gotta get it right.
If not, consider a new charger that can do all your batteries. I like this one off Amazon, it can do AA, 18650 and even these little AA-sized Li cells that output 3.7v.
18650 are already in everything, good to have a charger for them.
I just ordered this one off Amazon. I would just order a stock replacement for the battery that came with your Starry. I tried a different high drain 18650 for my Starry and they were ever so slightly too big.
EBL Smart Rapid Battery Charger for Rechargeable 3.7V Li-ion LiFePO4 IMR Batteries 26650 21700 18650 17670 17500 14500 16340(RCR123), Ni-MH/Ni-Cd AA AAA C Batteries (Batteries Not Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9TUL8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QqgUDbCTGAC4D
What’s your thoughts on this one? I read some reviews for the light on amazon and one guy recommended it.
I have the nitecore F4 and it works great for that purpose. But if you're looking for something to carry on your bike just as a backup for emergency use in case you unexpectedly run out of power on a ride, then I might go for something like this instead since it's a lot more compact. Although I haven't used it and can't vouch for it's quality/durability
neither of these are waterproof
rechargeable batteries exist
amazon!
Have you not heard of rechargable AAs?
Anybody constantly buying non-rechargable AAs are asking to get their money stripped from them. I have had the same batteries I linked for 5 years now and they still charge like a champ and I always have fresh batteries ready to go at all times.
I have this model but I didn't buy it from amazon
Charger
I think whoever repleid to me or xkristian is shadowbanned.
I don't think you'll find any 18650, usb-rechargeable lights with lower than .4 lumens. Most people would consider anything sub-lumen good for the purposes you describe, so there aren't many options that go lower.
If you disagree, the compromise may be to get a H600fd III like others suggested (compromising on usb charging, but gaining ultra low modes). Then get a Wowtac USB rechargeable battery. I don't know for sure this battery will fit. It's possible it is too long and you would want to check this before purchasing if interested.
Alternatively, carry a Nitecore F2 or F1 as your charger/powerbank and bring extra 18650 batteries. Carry them in cases like this. Carry unused batteries in one pocket of your backpack and move them to another pocket when drained. This is my setup for backpacking, although I haven't tried it since switching away from a traditional power bank (which is heavier and less efficient than having removable batteries).
Your last option is to get the Elf C2 and carry a separate map light if you find .4 lm to be insufficient. I don't think you'll find any other good alternatives.
Please excuse me
one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMRBTH2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The deal is, the USB on that battery is too tall for what I'm doing. I'm going to solder it off. I want to directly connect the battery with thin wire and I wanted to know how to wire the battery up.
I did buy though amazon but near I could tell it's a proper adafuit product. Though looking more closely at it I guess it's a third party seller? This thing. Also I was following this tutorial from Adafruit's website. I want to say I did it right but this is my first crack at this kind of stuff, so I can't say for sure. I've since disassembled the whole thing in an attempt to figure out where I messed up.
> Amazon Basics high capacity rechargeables
I'll have to try these!
Edit: I ended up finding some other brand of higher capacity AA batteries which I presume are a tad larger and will fit more snugly. These are supposed to be 2400 Mah: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007ISWA/
Charger
Batteries
With that said, I would recommend a different mod. The Hammer has really, REALLY bad voltage drop, which means you won't get very good performance out of it. In addition to that, the battery is an 18350. AW makes the best 18650 on the market (the one I linked), but it's only 6.8 amps IIRC. With all of that said, you won't be able to wrap your coils very low, and you will have to deal with very bad voltage drop. All in all, I don't think you would enjoy your purchase, but to each his own.
Happy vaping!
Im not sure where about in europe you are but you can get decent 2 bay chargers for a relatively cheap price. You can get the nitecore D2 for £19 in the UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00KSJ4ARC/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1509942138&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=nitecore&dpPl=1&dpID=51ak0oekh6L&ref=plSrch
Is this the v1 you're referring to?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GK7JMJ2
Efest luc has a cigarette lighter adapter I use it all the time to charge on the go here is a link for amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GK7JMJ2?cache=3eef10cf40cd53709b8acfd8b66320d0&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1406737949&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3
EBLs I've been happy with.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NND3LZW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
xsoluprimex, do you know if I could use the charger here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NND3LZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to charge the ones you posted here:
http://www.getfpv.com/frsky-aa-rechargeable-1800mah-lsd-nimh-battery-for-taranis-q-x7-pack-of-6.html
It's a Folomov A1 $9 on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BFSNBKJ
I use these Kentli li-ion rechargeable AA batteries. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CZV0ZYW/
The nice thing is that they're internally voltage regulated down from 3.7v to 1.5v, so the 1.5v output stays rock steady until they are drained. That means I never get low battery behavior with the WMR controllers.
Also because of the built-in voltage regulator, they're drop in replacements for standard AAs, and you don't have to worry about dummy passthroughs or accidentally blowing your hardware.
The batteries also have overcharge and overdrain protection (as li-ions are unsafe without it).
They are, however, a little pricey, and you can only charge them with the supplied charger.
I've tried a couple times to get a ZeroW working w/ OTG mass storage and the 3 doesn't recognize it as storage (Windows does, Linux does, but not the 3). Anybody have any pointers?
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I've used this power supply and a battery with good luck on other projects. There a pin to use as a GPIO input for putting the Pi to sleep and wake up when power is re-applied.
For controllers. Quest and Odyssey 2X EBL Rechargeable AA Batteries 2300mAh Long Lasting Battery (8 Counts) with Battery Charger for AA AAA Batteries
Use this at the gym Portable Charger RAVPower 18W PD 10000mAh Portable Charger 10000 USB C Power Bank External Battery Pack
This for movies AUKEY USB C Power Bank 30000mAh, Portable Charger with Quick Charge 3.0
All via some discount via Kinja or Slickdeals.
Thanks a lot, lesson learned!
I've ordered this charger
Now I just have to make it through the new year without an ecig! ¬¬
It did not, but I use the LiitoKala Lii-500 which is only about $26 on Amazon with free shipping if you have Prime. It's a great charger and recommended by many people. I've had no problems with it so far nor do I have any design complaints with it either, so I'd definitely recommend it.
Bought this yesterday:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M2RA8XS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
After using several "charging station" kits with proprietary battery packs, backs and charging stations (Energizer & Nyko), I just recently took everyone's advice and switched to NiMH rechargeable. I myself went with the EBL brand 2800 mAh kit. It came with a charger and 8 AA batteries, and I have to tell you, the difference is night and day. I play every day for at least 2 hours, and on the weekends, it's not uncommon to put in 4-6 hours each day, and I only have to recharge these batteries, at most, once every 2 weeks... I'm NOT exaggerating. Plus now I can use my original battery backs (especially nice if you have any custom controllers).
This is the kit I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M2RA8XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One more question.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0721JP6FK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just bought this last week before I planned on going 21700. It does not mention 21700, but the ratings seems to match. Anyone think it will charge 21700's too?
buy this use to discharge all cells before building your pack.
https://www.amazon.com/FOLOMOV-Magnetic-Charging-Discharging-Function/dp/B07BFSNBKJ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=magnetic+18650+charger&qid=1564909098&s=gateway&sr=8-8
Do this instead.
https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Battery-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B0148675WM