(Part 2) Best paint pens & markers according to redditors

thank you! the blue words were from the Kuretake Zig Brushables, and the black words were from the Zebra Disposable Brush pen


Kuretake Zig brushables:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Zig-Memory-System-Brushables-Markers/dp/B004W8OP34&ved=2ahUKEwiYsZOBsJ3iAhXRCuwKHZtEDWkQFjAKegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw2ftVSTtmAn6nRHCLbkyGgI&cshid=1557917796266


Zebra Disposable Brush Pen:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.jetpens.com/Zebra-Disposable-Brush-Pen-Extra-Fine/pd/2309&ved=2ahUKEwi038nur53iAhUQ_qQKHSc8DGIQFjAAegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw0Rn_mPewcbQ-MYHYbkWZZf

⭐12 Permanent Oil Paint... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FNV1RPC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Had to set up house on an extreme budget a few years ago— got great deals on kitchen things I needed by shopping at the Dollar store. Things that would be just fine for my purposes (were messed up on the bottom, pattern of stripes didn’t match up, etc) and they had great glass drinking jars and cheap bar ware.

My best friend knew starting over was rough. But she also knew I value memories over stuff anyway so she bought me markers that write on glass then we had a party to decorate all my glassware. Had to be washed by hand, but that was okay because I couldn’t afford a dishwasher, either! I still have the ones we did for cocktails. I hope you reach better times soon, friend.

Testing out some water based metallic markers:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K6KMVHR

Pretty decent finish, took a couple days to really feel dry, but that might be me being a little heavy handed with the markers.

Under $15:

• Calligraphy Marker - Good for people VERY new to calligraphy, easy to use, won't make amazing compositions.
  
  
• Pilot Parallel Pens - Good balance of looking/acting like an expensive pen and easy to use. If you get one of these, I would recommend the 3.8mm because the large size helps in learning the forms of each hand.
  
  Under $30:
  
  
• Speedball Dip Nibs/holders - This package has a diverse collection of nibs, which means many different sizes for about the price of a single parallel pen. Downsides include more maintaining/cleaning of each nib, unlike the almost maintenance-free parallel pen. Also, you will need to buy ink separately. Some good ink I've just gotten is parker.

For those looking for US delivery of markers like these, Amazon has some

I've been playing a little bit of Ironsworn, with a new character (Milla Ravenmark). I've also have just learned about "narrative dice". I honestly had no idea those were a thing, and I was surprised because I love rolling polyhedrals! I mean, the first thing that came to mind were Rory Story Cubes (which of course I own), but nope. Narrative dice are different, and they are used in the Genesys system and a couple of Star Wars RPGs that I haven't tried. A quick google search gave me some new info on the topic!

Thanks to Runehammer's video on narrative dice, and his DIY system, I have just bought a couple of materials from Amazon in hopes of creating my own custom set: 100 assorted color blank six-sided dice, a simple electric engraver that can be used with plastic, and a set of paint pens. The paint pen idea came from this video that teaches you how to color your custom engraved dice. His system looks PERFECT for a solo rpg approach! Now, I'm hinking on how to use those dice with USR rpg.

I'm also working on creating my custom dice tower on the cheap using a can of Pringles and some other easy-to-get items.

I'm looking forward to see how things go!

Most oil based paint markers will work. I've used gold/silver colored sharpies to great effect.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I0VMK4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I built the Freedom a couple of years ago, and it really is a good kit. It's about 7.5 to 8 inches like most of the 1/100 MG Gundams. It's a bit back heavy like all the Seed kits, but it does come with a nice stand. Just be careful when putting the model on the stand, the connecters are a little fragile. You don't need to do any painting but there are a couple of noticeable seam lines on the waist and wing cannons. The proportions for the kit are really good, and it poses pretty well on the stand.

The newer MG kits typically look pretty good without paint. Some builders choose to only do panel lining and top coating. And they usually turn out looking pretty good. If you'd like to cover up spru marks check out gundam markers they usually make sets based on series. If you're interested you can find them here. http://www.amazon.com/GMS109-Gundam-Marker-Seed-Basic/dp/B0009AFN4E/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1313903887&sr=8-5 I'm also selling the same set of markers slightly used for a discount.



Hobby Wave has the kit for about $50 which isn't bad at all. Shipping is flat rate thought, so sometimes it's better to buy more than one kit at a time to save on repeated shipping.
http://www.hobbywave.com/plastic_models/gundam/mg/mg_zgmf_x10a_freedom_gundam.html

Also if you haven't checked it out already try watching a couple of episodes of Gunpla TV. The early episodes would probably be very helpful if you haven't built Gunpla kits before.

http://www.hobbylink.tv/category/gunplatv

Nathan's video introduction of Waterase/bluerase says that dry erase markers require solvents which are neither FP nor environmentally friendly. He's obviously biased, as he's selling a wet-erase ink, but his argument makes sense.

I put some bluerase into a Montana refillable marker with the intent of using it in my classes--but it was a pain to have to use water to erase it all the time. So, if someone else knows of a dry erase ink, I'd love to hear it.

I bought these 5. Black and white are oil and the other three are water based. I don't know why I ordered mismatched ones but so far none have shown a difference except the water ones are a lot easier to clean up after I'm done inking them, understandably. But since they are in the groove I think they will be just fine. Also, I have the pens so I can touch them up if I ever wanted to.

http://www.amazon.com/Sanford-Sharpie-Extra-Fine-Metallic-Silver/dp/B005DEW3DA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368220647&sr=8-1&keywords=sharpie+extra+fine+paint

http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-Marker-Extra-fine-Black/dp/B00396ZPO8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1368220647&sr=8-8&keywords=sharpie+extra+fine+paint

http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-Markers-white-extra/dp/B0026HHZGM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1368220647&sr=8-7&keywords=sharpie+extra+fine+paint

Here's a link.. Way more precise than a brush.
https://www.amazon.com/KINGART-920-Fine-Painting-Pen-5MM/dp/B07F6M1XBB/ref=mp_s_a_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1540645555&sr=8-48&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=touch+up+paint+pen&dpPl=1&dpID=31nI8RppnJL&ref=plSrch

It's insanely easy (except the pizza that I'm still not thrilled with). I had the pens lying around in two sizes. Sharpie oil based paint pens -- I found them at staples if I remember right. But here's the Amazon link I found for assorted and metallic.

As already stated...White-Out/Liquid Paper are not actually paint. They are an opaque medium, mixed with solvents, meant to dry in such a way as to correct writing/typing mistakes, and then be written/typed on again. Never use this type of product on plastics, because it can literally eat into them, beyond the fact that it doesn't offer the same coverage or staying power as acrylic paint.

If your main issue here is lack of confidence using bottled model paint with fine-tipped brushes, there are products that can help. Posca paint markers are extremely versatile, and filled with normal acrylic paint. I use them for drawing on various surfaces...including doing touch-ups or paint applications on figures. A single, white Posca marker will probably last you a very long time, and they are between $5-7. You can get various tip sizes, as well as other colors. Posca White Ultra Fine Tip

I hope this was helpful, and as a final tip...make sure to grab some sort of clear coat...whether spray or brush-on, to seal the paint, when you're finished.

https://www.amazon.com/Sakura-Solid-Marker-Glow-Dark/dp/B0039773BU

Best i could find. It's got mixed reviews and it doesn't seem like you'd be able to get it set up ahead of time due to smearing.

rub this on, dab it off with paper towels, repeat till you like what you have, then clear coat

I use these: https://www.amazon.com/Sanford-Uni-Paint-Oil-Based-Assorted-63721/dp/B001E6C48A/. You can probably find them in at least art stores.

I don't know the exact name of the color but it's from this Brushables pack! https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004W8OP34/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any paint pens would work, something like these would be perfect.

Don't get frustrated if a little of the paint comes out the first few times, there's a lit of finesse to it in order to not remove a little bit from inside the fill area. Took me about 2 or 3 times to get used to wiping it off until I got it perfected.

What pens did you use specifically? I am interested in painting some of my uninked dice but am not sure which ones to buy. These look promising:

http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Markers-Silver-30588PP/dp/B001CD9RYY/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1368219695&sr=1-1&keywords=paint+pen

but I don't know what kind of pain pens I should be buying. Oil-based? Water-based?

Maybe it's this?

Frosting can caused by:

• High humidity at the time of spraying.
  
• Spraying on too much.
  
  
  When this happens, spraying on even more does nothing but making the frost looks more prominent.
  
  -----
  
  A way to properly fix this is to remove the coat and redo it. Now, if you paint your kit, chances it you may strip the paint layer as well. If not, you shouldn't run into any major problem. Just find out what kind of topcoat you used and look for a solution accordingly.
  
  
  A way to cheat out of this is to apply some Real Touch Marker that has similar color to the actual color underneath. Generously draw on to cover the entire area, then brush off with cotton swap. It won't look perfect, but unlikely to get spotted from a couple feet away.

Honestly I've never done lining post top-coat, I find everything is harder once you coat it. I also use the "real touch" markers for lining because I love the wetness of the ink and the wipe control.
https://www.amazon.com/Gundam-Marker-GMS113-Touch-Color/dp/B0009AFN0I

I started out with just a 2 mm Sharpie chisel tip pen that was only around $1.50 from a local craft store. I printed out a random calligraphy alphabet that I found online and tried to mimic that when I got bored in class. (You can see this alphabet, Chaucery Italic, influences my Gothic letters unfortunately, such as my 'i', which is supposed to have one minim, as /u/SMTRodent pointed out, but I make it with two as is done in Chaucery.)

I then picked up the Manuscript 5 nib set at the same craft store, and started this excerpt in my spare time about a week ago. I also browse this subreddit, and plan to actually practice now that summer is here! Hope this helped!

Use an acrylic paint pen, that way you can mark up the body of the magazine on a spot your hands won't really touch often (like the back near the top/middle). I found that sharpies just wipe off (even on the plastic bumper)


White:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D2LC8LH/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_FGiVDbKXH6KMY


Black:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D2M6B23/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_MIiVDb0QE6FWA

It was a bit annoying at first, but i what i did was this:
first, i painted the nub marks with my gundam seed markers.

since the paint is a little different from the wings, i used a q-tip soaked with alcohol and removed most of the excess, but the nub mark ended up being somewhat the same color as the wings. I hope this helped!

Amazon

I don't want to say that you cut it wrong because, who am I to say? But, in my experiences, cutting the tip just on a 45 degree angle yields some awesome results. You can definitely get thinner lines this way, and it really works well for calligraffiti style. Also, I highly recommend the Montana 30mm marker which you don't have to cut to get great lines.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DEW3DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ga4JAbCHZV7Y2

Is this what you used? Really liking the look of that silver.

Hi, I use the Uni-ball UM 153 Signo Broad Point Gel Pen, white although I will soon start also using the Uni Pc-1MR Posca Marker Ultra Fine White once I purchase it since the pen I currently use does not spread too well on some work.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039773BU?pc_redir=1413975131&robot_redir=1

http://www.amazon.com/Lacquer-Stik%C2%AE-Fill-In-Paint-Markers-lacquer-stikfill/dp/B002BYWUMO

I wanted to do this too, but are there be any fine tipped metallic gundam markers? Or is sharpie the best bet?

http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Markers-Metallic-30588PP/dp/B001CD9RYY/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1462287401&sr=1-1&keywords=metallic+Extra+Fine+Point+sharpie