(Part 2) Best satellite tv parts & equipment according to redditors
We found 1,178 Reddit comments discussing the best satellite tv parts & equipment. We ranked the 269 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
I have a few extras i can sell. will update this post when i post it on /r/mm.
EDIT: if you are interested on the top and bottom plates.
With a 300 ohm to 75 ohm balun, and an A/B switch. Set the Atari to output on channel 3, and add it to your TV channel lineup. Run the atari into one side of the A/B switch, and your antenna into the other side of the switch. When you want to play your console, switch to channel 3, switch to the input that has the atari attached, and turn on your game system.
Yes, you actually can use a 40 year old console with modern TVs if you so wish.
Antronix CMC2002H
That's what we install in every location. Antronix makes good splitters, made of real metal. They are very solid and durable.
Edit : I work for a cable ISP, hint hint.
Linear 2512 ChannelPlus DC & IR Passing 2-Way Splitter/Combiner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006JPEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iBjWBb1S7QF6Y
One if three will do much better for combining two signals. Using a regular splitter backwards will likely eat up most of the improvement you’d gain.
It's just an AV/RCA splitter. I don't know if it would slow down the gameplay though. Something like this would work.
HDMI Splitter 1 x 2, NewBEP 1 Input 2 Output HDMI Amplifier Switcher Box Hub Support 4KX2K 3D 2160p 1080p (One Input To Two Outputs) https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B01MT12OQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ME1ZCb3P79TVZ
Not including the 3d printer or filament, or my soldering iron and other necessary tools:
LEDs: $12.57
Resistor 47ohm: $6.12
Diodes: $5.59
Gateron greens: 17@ $.90/per
Think this might better suit your needs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L0X2GIU/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This splitter may be another option for you. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L0X2GIU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
I get 11 channels right next to Gainesville High School.:
I used to work at Gainesville Television Network. In order to pull in the stations above, you'll need an attic to put an antenna in - or you can mount one on the roof or outside pole.
Antenna 1: Amazon Basics clone of the Leaf antenna
Antenna 2: Clearstream 5
Combiner: Channel Plus Combiner/Splitter
Signal Booster: Motorola Signal Booster
Take those items and some lengths of RF cable (CATV style cable) and connect as such:
Cable from each antenna into the two ports labeled "IN" on the combiner.
One cable from the "OUT" labeled port of the combiner to the "RF Input" connector on the signal booster.
One cable from the signal booster "RF Output 1" to your TV.
One cable from the signal booster "Power 12vdc" connector to the included power adapter, which is then plugged into the wall for power.
This will pull in the above 11 stations nearly anywhere in Gainesville. Of course, your results may vary depending on your location and such.
There's red ones too, might tie into your theme better? The corners were really blowing your build apart for me, pretty damn nice aside from that.
Similarly to /u/ZeroShift I ordered a ViewHD, went with the 4k version because I didn't need audio separation, just something to remove hdcp for my magewell capture device.
Have you checked your cable modem to see if it's close to maxing out on the upstream power? Mine used to (but only at night for some reason) so I got an amplifier for the house and haven't had an issue since.
https://www.amazon.com/PCT-Amplifier-Active-Return-PCTMAB10151A/dp/B0012HQL44/
HDMI is limited in length but there are HDMI extenders over cat5e (or Cat6, which is just a more recent and better version of Cat5e)
Here is the first link at amazon https://www.amazon.com/164-Feet-Extender-Power-Cable-EX-165C/dp/B01GYH8DOM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538441264&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+over+cat5
Cat 5E is the hero of this story.
Keep in mind that all the runs of cat 5E go from the wiring closet to the separate rooms of the house. You would have a router in there and maybe a phone system. They don't really need much in the way of ventilation. You might want a file server which would generate some heat and you might have an amp in there (if you want multi room audio) which would also require some cooling.
Other than Cat5e you could use HDMI cables for short runs and some low voltage cables, but length is really an issue there. The more V/A you are sending the shorter the length can be.
You also might want to put some security cameras and an alarm panel. Usually alarm systems now are wireless, but I haven't looked into that in a while and wired is always better than wireless if you can pre-wire. If you do put cameras in there, you'll also want to have a Network Video Recorder to record the cameras.
Cameras can use Power Over Ethernet (called POE) which will give you power and ethernet over the same Cat5 Cable (didn't I tell you it was the hero of the story).
If you put the wires in conduit you can always pull additional wires if you run a pull string along with the other wires. Do this.
You can even use cat 5 for the alarm connections, no rule says you have to use all the wires.
Also think about access points. Some access points use ethernet. These are the ones you want. Keep in mind they need an AC source as well so run power to where you want those access points. Look at mesh networking it's cool. Still in it's infancy but it's good.
Think about a front door bell. There are a couple of different ways to do it. I used ring with mixed results. I had to put a 2.4GHz access point right below the doorbell to get the stupid thing to work.
Oh and then there are smart mirrors. Those are cool. One in the bathroom would be awesome.
Finally if you want to run speakers to rooms you might want to run some speaker wire to the smart locations.
To the wiring closet I would run 2 or 3 20 Amp services, as well as some sort of AC if you are going to run servers or anything cool. You can never have too much power going to your wiring closet.
That's all I can think of.
For your aspect ratio problem: I presume the image is squished on your recordings? I'm not familiar with the AVHD, but check for an option in your recording settings regarding 4:3/16:9 capture, I know I have to tell my Elgato to record in 16:9 as compared to 4:3.
Also, component at 480p is the best quality you can get from the Wii. Are you using splitters to get the signal to both your TV and capture card? If you are, you may want to invest in a powered component distributor (like this one) to ensure you're not losing signal quality from splitting.
Hope that's helpful :D
I'm sorry, man. I misunderstood it. There are HDMI replicators/splitters available. Small subset of results:
There are multiple options available. You just have to make sure all your requirements are written down (in Excel or something) and check each product against it. It's slightly annoying, but with your specific equipment where you know some things work and others don't, this is the best way to ensure your money is going in the right place. Best of luck :)
Edit: to address something important /u/lonaowna mentioned: last one works with HDCP 2.2
You would only be able to use the Shield on one TV at a time but you could use something like this to split the input to the TVs throughout your house. To control the Shield you would have to use to Android TV Remote app.
This looks exactly like the one in OP's photo:
https://www.amazon.com/Expert-Connect-HDMI-Splitter-Port/dp/B01M66DMNH
ok so I am late to the game and there were a lot of great questions and answers
I am going to try to pull them together and add my own part
​
first thing is you want to test the antenna and amp direct to the TV
so get a long piece of coax and if you have a small tv you can position near the opening of the attic that would be cool if not you need to run one long enough to reach your tv..
See if your setup works.. no splitters.
Next if it works you want to use the signal indicator on your tv to set the position of the antenna to its best direction for the best reception.. it might just be a nudge in any direction that you need for the best signal. Pick a weak station on your tvfool report to do this.. the strong ones you won't have problems with.
​
Ok so it works and you get good signal.. now your home's wiring.
If a splitter is used anywhere on the line from the injector to the antenna it will block the voltage getting to the antenna.. UNLESS its a bidirectional AND power passing splitter.. they are harder to find than you might think .. there are a ton for satelite dishes and you can screw yourself on those...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006JPEA
see how each port says in-out and its also DC/IR power passing on all ports? thats what you should look for.. it just makes life easier
​
to tell if you are getting power at your antenna its not hard you just need a voltage tester if you live near harborfreight you can get one free (with any purchase)
https://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/7+FUNCTION+DIGITAL+MULTIMETER
go up to the wire going into the antenna amplifier and test on the center wire and the outside screw on part.. you should get somewhere between 12 and 18volts DC.. make sure the tester is set on DC.
​
if you got that and your inserter is placed at your tv and its shooting power up to the amplifier then you should be getting signal..
​
like others have said you can also test without the amp and maybe thats fine.. just remove the inserter and go directly to the antenna in the attic instead of passing through the amp.
A dead amp or an amp that isn't getting power will shut down all signal from the antenna.. Its a good way to know your amp is dead if you get no signal .. but your amp is probably not dead.
a bad wire .. a bad crimp on a wire.. that can cause problems
I bought a Channel Master Preamp that came with a cable but the cable wasn't crimped correctly .. it was the small inserter cable from the power supply to the inserter.. so I replaced that and it worked fine.
so idk if i missed anything.. and others have touched on other things
​
good luck
Generic DK104 PET0104P HDMI Splitter 1x4 Ports 4 Port 1080P v1.3 HDTV 3D HD Audio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LMN5N8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_f4IGAbWNW4WD7
I setup one of these 4 years ago and it's still going strong. We split out Xbox One, 360, and PC stuff throughout a game store and it's been pretty much set it and forget it.
In my old house we had 150' run from the street to the termination and another 120' from the termination to the family room. We put in an amp similar to this and it made a huge difference.
Acer P1500 1080p. i use this powered splitter hdmi splitter.
http://www.amazon.com/Splitter-compatible-swither-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0088HP93A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411413710&sr=1-1&keywords=PORTTA+2+Port+1x2+Hdmi+Splitter
I used to use a chromecast but, there isnt an app that allows me to stream still downloading media. I have to wait for the downloads to finish and im very impatient. I have 100mbit internet, i want to click download and click play a sec later.
One thing you could try is installing cable amplifiers. I have two connections into my house and an amplifier on each. I wasn't getting service as bad as you are experiencing but mine definitely improved with the amplification. I couldn't find the ones I bought but these at Amazon looked about the same :
http://www.amazon.com/Bi-Directional-Amplifier-Splitter-Booster-Passive/dp/B001BMKNZI
You can use a coax splitter like this one
from newegg! (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8SV3805888)https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Coaxial-Splitter-Bidirectional-Communications/dp/B00NE0G23W/Edit:Actiontec adapters can be a bit pricey so I used these and have never had a problem with them https://www.amazon.com/Yitong-Technology-Ethernet-Adapter-YTMC-51N1-M2/dp/B019MDRX5A/r
They're available!
Won't work. While it does down convert the 4k signal out one cdmi port, the HD60 can't accept a HDCP 2.2 signal. You'll need a HDCP stripper for that, so you'll xbox -> ezcoo -> 4k to tv, 1080p to stripper -> elgato
This strips the HDCP signal btw.
https://www.amazon.com/Revesun-Splitter-1080p-Ultra-Definition/dp/B014EZ7266
Edit: That scaler that is listed in the comment above is also only 8 bit color HDR, which isn't HDR10 or Dolby Vision.
P.S. I wish I saw this splitter before I paid $250 for my Gefen Scaler (which has the ability to upscale, downscale, passthrough all signals)
Edit 2: My Gefen is actually a bit better after looking at specs as it is overclocked to 600 MHz, has an aux port, and supports 10 bit color, not just 8 bit.
http://www.gefen.com/press-release/gefen-now-shipping-4k-ultra-hd-600-mhz-12-scaler-edid-detective-and-audio-de-embedder
For sure. If you have a relatively clear view of NNW, you can probably get by with a [cheap indoor antenna stuck to a north/west window] (https://www.amazon.com/Antenna-Amplified-Broadcast-Television-Detachable/dp/B01FUB4ZG8/) (on sale for $17 when I'm posting).
If you're in a valley (like me), you'll probably need a more serious setup (I have this one mounted in my attic with an amplifier and it works great, even though the signal is coming to me through the side of a hill to my NNW).
Who needs cable with the internet and OTA TV?
Oh and I use one of these to combine my digital TV antenna signal and the one the modulator puts out.
[Linear 2512 ChannelPlus DC & IR Passing 2-Way Splitter/Combiner] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006JPEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0WjEDb8099ZHP)
http://www.amazon.com/Splitter-compatible-swither-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0088HP93A/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1416859498&sr=8-7&keywords=hdmi+splitter
HD60s
Not sure if the processor is good for what you want to do - but more importantly the PS3 uses HDCP (I think that’s what it’s called)
To capture a PS3 you’d need to get a splitter that can remove the HDCP to go to the capture card. I use this one:
ViewHD Ultra HD | 4K HDMI 1x2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4D3RTU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I got the 4K one only to future proof it Incase I use it with something else, and I got it back in 2017 so it’s unavailable now, BUT I’m sure it’ll give you a good base to figure out what to go for.
Good luck friend!
A cheap but PIA way of doing this would be to get an HDMI splitter and either run HDMI through the house to the other rooms, or use HDMI over ethernet adapters and run cat6 through the house although they require two ethernet cables per HDMI.
Another option would be to get a slingbox and two devices that have the slingplayer app for the other tvs. This is a more expensive option but it would be dead simple/
That cable should work fine, though ymmv depending on your setup and conditions.
You might also want to consider a HDMI over Cat5/6 extender - something like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GYH8DOM?psc=1
Great signal over a long distance, and much easier to run Cat cables compared with a thick HDMI cable.
And if your house is already wired with ethernet ports in the respective rooms/areas you want to connect, it's almost a no brainer.
Here you go, though any similar switch should work.
That's a pretty standard splitter for cable TV and regular cable Internet applications. Pardon the pun, but it's not ideal for MoCA. MoCA typically operates at frequencies between 1000 MHz and 1675 MHz. It's possible, however, that MoCA may work through this splitter. Splitters don't perfectly block frequencies outside their operating range. MoCA can tolerate up to 25 dB of loss.
If you already have your MoCA gear, then try it out. If you get a poor connection, then consider upgrading the splitters to something like this one.
Just FYI you can get something like this to use an external speaker system:
https://smile.amazon.com/ViewHD-Splitter-Integrated-Extractor-VHD-1X2HSACi/dp/B00L0X2GIU/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496508534&sr=1-13&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor
Thanks, i appreciate that. I am more into customizing pcs than gaming these days, it is a really fan hobby, i am even thinking of migrating to a thermaltake p5 case from my current phanteks one and even paint the ram sticks.
If you ever feel like changing those noctua brown fans on the radiator, i can highly recommend the noctua industrial ones, with red rubber pads. It is the one i use on my current build that you saw as a rear exhaust fan. They are the best double duty fans, good static pressure performance like your current noctua ones but much better static air flow performance, you could replace those two noctua af fans that are visible from the side with two of them at your radiator to increase the air flow that goes directly to the card. A motherboard with good pwm control is necessary though for those to be silent. The hero handles them no problem, i have two of those and i never hear them
Also if you reaaaally feel like it, you could add a bit of grey to your custom cables, to compliment they ram sticks and the grey accent on the mobo. Something like this. Anyway, i am rambling perhaps you are not even interested with this stuff. Have fan with the card. Congrats for your daughter as well!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPIQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_h5dwybCPR6WQ5
Actiontec is one of the primary vendors in this area. A few things to keep in mind:
A few sample devices:
https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0
https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6
https://www.amazon.com/Holland-Electronics-GHS-2Pro-M-Splitter-5-1675Mhz/dp/B00P6VHLP0/
So I live 30 miles away from the tv stations. I have a 70 mile antenna which is mounted prob 25ft up. I am having problems with cbs and NBC but not any of the other 61 channels I am receiving. Cbs and NBC will be at full strength and then drop to zero and lose signal for a few seconds. I can go hours with no problems but then will go hours with it going in and out. It's not getting pixilated, it completely drops and the tv says no signal.
I just installed this today hoping it would help
2-Port Bi-Directional Cable TV HDTV Amplifier Splitter Signal Booster with Passive Return Path https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BMKNZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_AHUkVve74rlae
I also have this antenna
RCA Compact Outdoor Yagi HDTV Antenna with 70 Mile Range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024R4B5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wrZWzbMDS6KAP
You'll need a capture card that can accept composite / component or something that will convert those kinds of signals to digital (HDMI converter - those devices havinv a range of quality depending on how much you're looking to pay).
When we capture older systems, 480p and below we use the the Micomsoft SC-512N1-L/DVI.
http://solarisjapan.com/products/sc-512n1-l-dvi-component-hd-and-dvi-capture-board
There's also a variant that's $100 less but doesn't have a pass through (it's also been out of stock for a while). If you get this version you'd either need a splitter or to capture the game footage from something like Amarec. Getting splitters and cables might end up costing more than the $100 you save though.
https://www.sabrepc.com/yuan-sc512-n1-l-dvi-single-channel-dvi-capture-card.html
I suggest this card because it has very, very little latency, is easy to plug and play one you have the drivers installed (no fiddling with the capture card's resolution settings to get it see whatever it is you're trying to capture), can pretty much capture anything. It simply rocks. I don't know if you consider this overkill, but if straight up out of the box quality and ease of use is what you're looking for, I feel you would be hard pressed to find something better.
For further information about the card check out this review: http://www.thethrillness.com/2014/01/micomsoft-sc-512n1-ldvi-capture-card.html?m=1
To give an idea on the difference in quality when it comes to composite vs. component for older consoles, check the the difference in these captures of the Legend of Zelda: Twilight Princess:
480i (Gamecube via composite): www.twitch.tv/overboredgaming/v/23809520
480p (Gamecube compatible Wii via component): www.twitch.tv/overboredgaming/v/27514611
As for how you would capture an older system and play it, you could use a splitter like this: 1x4 Component Video Distribution Amplifier / Splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CAIBQ9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_h9AnybG7AH449
A switch won't do this, but you can absolutely accomplish this. There are HDMI over cat cable adapters ( https://www.amazon.ca/EX-165C-165-Feet-Extender-Power-Ex-165C/dp/B01GYH8DOM/ - as an example. Not sure if that's a good one or not... Not an endorsement). You can use an HDMI splitter where all of the cables meet up (at your switch, or wherever a switch would go) and use several sender units to convert the, now split, HDMI signal to cat 5/6, and send it down the line. A quick conversion back at the endpoint and you're all set.
Some higher end home theatre solutions use this type of thing to keep av equipment out of sight. Companies and businesses use these to do things like, watch security cameras from a DVR/NVR from across the building (or to display it for customers to watch themselves walk in). Also for some digital signage applications .... Lots of things.
That coaxial splitter is not what you want. That will split a single signal into two. It has one input and two outputs.
What you need is a coaxial switch - http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Coaxial-A-Switch/dp/B0002ZPIQ4
>What kind of high quality splitter would you recommend?
Dunno really. You are mostly just avoiding the counterfeit ones. This one seems popular, but probably mostly because it is marked on the case for both splitting and combining:
>Also, if I go this route,,,how far should I space them? Or does that matter?
It apparently depends on the gain of the antennas. I think that most people won't have enough space on their mast to worry about it. Here is an appropriate search:
The 30-2476 seems to be the only high gain VHF-high antenna available right now for a reasonable price.
Sometimes no amount of antenna gain can make a weak signal reliable. Signal levels can vary a lot over time/season/weather.
I agree with this. I bought the splitters that went up to 2500 MHz (capital M...otherwise it's milli herts - hehe) and had poorer performance than the splitters that want to 1000 MHz.
​
When I put in the 1675 MHz one, things worked great. Amazon 2 Way Splitter Link
​
Also - when you are getting a splitter, make sure it has the same loss in BOTH directions. Lower quality splitters will have more loss for the return energy than the forward energy. MoCA can deal with this, but you will have different data rates on send vs receive is the losses get high enough.
Thanks for the suggestion u/freakame I was looking into HDMI over CAT6 but was afraid to try it out. I followed your recommendation but used a different product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GYH8DOM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a 00' Cat6 cable.
Yeah, I have a ton that remove HDCP. But like you looking for one that does 4k.
I don't have my 4K TV or my Xbox X yet but I bought this one in hopes of it working:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT12OQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Most NVR systems (both older and newer) will eventually "time out" network connections so using the network for continuous monitoring is not ideal. I would first replace your current system with a newer one with an HDMI output for local monitoring. Then you can plug in any nearby TV directly to the NVR, or an HDMI extender to convert the HDMI to Ethernet (greatly increases video signal range) and you can run a cable to one or more TVs for continuous app-free monitoring. For offsite monitoring you would use the app recommended by the NVR manufacturer.
https://www.amazon.com/164-Feet-Extender-Single-Option-EX-165C/dp/B01GYH8DOM/
I'll be watching this very closely. I was JUST about to pull the trigger on this which looks like a simpler version of what you have. I'm hoping we get a good answer because I don't want to go 720p.
I was going to get this because in my basement I have a TV currently hooked up and want to add a projector. I need to go firetv into switch and then video out to TV and projector and optical audio out to receiver.
Hey again,
I got a tech coming tomorrow morning, my concern is theyre gonna take a look and say alls well, but we'll see. I was wondering, I looked at this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxarSx0rQ9M
And it recommended this hardware to help with the problem:
https://www.amazon.com/PCT-Amplifier-Active-Return-PCTMAB10151A/dp/B0012HQL44/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473095048&sr=8-1&keywords=PCT+1-Port+Variable+Gain+Signal+Amplifier+With+Active+Return
Was wondering if this will help with my situation, where Upstream Power starts to float over 40 and the connection dies.
Thanks!
Would this work?
Have you tried adding any reflectors to the back of your homemade antennas? Have you tried a pre-amp? I am no where near as lucky as you with the strength of available OTA channels in my area, so I have been doing a great deal of testing of antenna theory to see what might work to provide me with quality feeds of the available channels without having to hang an antenna on the side of my house. I noticed two things in my testing so far, reflectors ma a huge difference when signals are weak and the right preamp will stabilize sketchy feeds. A pre-amp may be all you need based on your TV fool report. I bought one on Amazon for $24. https://www.amazon.com/Bi-Directional-Amplifier-Splitter-Booster-Passive/dp/B001BMKNZI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465592775&sr=8-1&keywords=2-Port+Bi-Directional+Cable+TV+HDTV+Amplifier+Splitter+Signal+Booster+with+Passive+Return+Path
I also tested a home built Gray-Hoverman with a mig-shift reflector (center divider to a large dog kennel) which only covered the majority of the height of the elements (not all of the height) and it out performed a straight out of the box Channelmaster CM-4221 for some frequency ranges when tested outside. I then modified the CM-4221 by switching out the center two whisker bays to a longer 9 3/4" length of whisker. This modification out performed my GH. Neither performed well inside my house as is. I added a pre-amp to both, and the GH outperformed the Channelmaster. My next step is to improve the reflector design on the GH to something bigger that allows full coverage of the elements to see if I can improve the inside channel options even more.
I googled: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=component+splitter and found these from amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-3-RCA-Component-Splitter-102848/dp/B000RJJ0XW
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-103002-Coupler-Component-Extension/dp/B002KCKX8K/ref=pd_tcs_compl_pc_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0Z5E5ZC59XC2DNEJ61BB
You would use the coupler to connect your 360 to the splitter then you would need two sets of component cables go to to your HDPVR and Monitor. If your monitor needs DVI, i'm sure there are Component to DVI cables out there.
You can use these.
For future reference, you can check the very well-maintained subreddit wiki for almost all your objective keyboard questions.
Aside from what everyone else has advised, you are missing the USB cable between the Tivo and the Tuning Adaptor, you should also use a splitter so you go from Cable line, to 2-way splitter. From 2-way splitter to TiVo and 2-way splitter to Tuning Adapter. In my case, the Tuning Adapter was introducing so much loss in its passthrough connection that I was getting all kinds of pixelation and signal drop. Also, get a good quality splitter if the cable company did not provide one. (They did for me in my self-install box but I tried to not use it.) This is a good one: https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Coaxial-Splitter-Bidirectional-Communications/dp/B00NE0G23W/
> I would like to take the coax in each room and attach it to the device, then be able to have the PACE box connect to the device via coax and plug my tv in via ethernet.
Whatever MoCA adapters you end up using, this connection approach won’t be possible ... because either the MoCA adapter won’t have a “TV/STB Out” coax pass-through port, or, more critically, because those adapters that do have a pass-through port utilize an internal diplexer to route the signals, and MoCA signals aren’t passed through the pass-through port, or at least not without severe attenuation. MoCA devices mustn’t be connected to the pass-through port of a MoCA adapter.
Instead, for an all-MoCA setup, you’d require a MoCA-compatible splitter (eg, eg, eg) to separately connect the MoCA adapter and provider/PACE box to the coax.
https://www.amazon.com/Revesun-Splitter-1080p-Ultra-Definition/dp/B014EZ7266#customerReviews
This reportedly still strips HDCP as of July 2019. Worse case it doesn't do it, you just return it back to Amazon.
Onkyo TX-SR308. Like I said. I'm fairly sure it doesn't support cross-input (or whatever the technical term for that would be).
At first I was considering something like this but as I continued to read I gathered that such an idea can be pretty hazardous to the components. I know that stereo piggyback cables exist, so why not video piggybacks? I haven't been able to find anything, but I appreciate any digging on your part.
My options, as I see them (with disadvantages in parentheses), at this point are:
so maybe this one? https://www.amazon.com/Expert-Connect-HDMI-Switch-Port/dp/B01M66DMNH/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1512052615&sr=1-7&keywords=HDMI%2B2.0%2Bswitch&th=1
> https://www.amazon.com/Portta-Splitter-support-XBOX360-Projector/dp/B0088HP93A/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp
I did the same thing but mine has given me a few problems. Also in my case, the length of the HDMI cord was having an effect on the signal. Maybe they have an amplifier for longer runs if needed.
I rarely use my projector and remote 103" screen anymore
I use this to split an HDMI to two screens. It works great for 1080p content. I'm sure there is something similar for 4k if you do some digging
https://www.amazon.com/Portta-Splitter-support-XBOX360-Projector/dp/B0088HP93A/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp
I would probably go with integrated video and one of these guys... http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Splitter-Ports-1080P-Audio/dp/B003LMN5N8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1397709997&sr=8-8&keywords=HDMI+SplitterCheaper than upgrading the graphics card to accommodate 3 HDMI outputsIt was pointed out to me that /u/Crazybutlazyy desired 3 seperate images being displayed instead of the same image on 3 displays.
I've seen devices that will selectively combine (or really replace) one channel on an antenna with the signal from another antenna. That's one option.
A friend of mine is using two antennas with a simpler combiner (he bought this one: antenna combiner) and he has had no complaints.
Exact same thing happened to me. Issue we had was our COAX splitters. We replaced any old splitters (i'm talking 5-10 y/o) with ones specifically meant for 2-way MoCA like these. Worked like a charm. Hopefully our root causes are similar!
"Drop amp" is what you are looking for. Running 2 now. For cable tv/Internet, currently running this
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Amplifier-Internet-Signal-Booster/dp/B001EKCGT8?ie=UTF8&keywords=Drop%20amp&qid=1463539433&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
And for Attic antenna, running this:
http://www.amazon.com/PCT-BI-DIRECTIONAL-AMPLIFIER-BOOSTER-PASSIVE/dp/B000F28DP2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Been running drop amps for years w/o problem. Also, they allow indirect power over one of the cable lines (requires separate $10 adapter) for those who don't have power at install location.
These things are freaking awesome. I remember around 2000, Comcast cable guy came out to "fix" poor signal in kids room. He jacked around with the connections and then said it couldn't be fixed, and blamed us for having 6 outlets when "Comcast only guarantees signal for 4 outlets." He left us worse off. He damaged kids connection in the attic (he pulled off connector but was too lazy to do anything but sloppily put it half-way back on), and Comcast billed like $80 for the "service" visit.
Luckily after very little Internet research, I realized Comcast cable guy was total moron. Drop amp was immediate, cheap, and trivial fix to our problem. Even a half-wit cable guy should have been able to point this out and save us some grief. Deployed 8-port with active return at the time. Also bought cable crimper and connectors to fix Comcast sloppy work -- now, I don't let them touch anything on my side of the cable "drop."
Eh? depending on where the modem and tv are they could very well just be both off a splitter right between them. I agree that it could be a line conditioner, he could also have a return amp that's not functioning, which would explain why it's the upstream. OP, do you have a basement, and if so do you have anything that looks like a splitter but with one of the lines running to a power outlet? Could just be a return amp not boosting your return signal, which would make it so the tv would still work as all that needs is a signal coming in, not so much going out.
Something that might look like this: http://www.amazon.com/PCT-BI-DIRECTIONAL-AMPLIFIER-BOOSTER-PASSIVE/dp/B000F28DP2 If you do find one, it should have a light on it to indicate power, and even if that light is still on, unplug it for several seconds till the light is off and plug it back in.
So there are a few ways you could do this, but I'll describe the way that would best maintain your ability to play games normally while not getting an overly complicated setup.
Basically you'll need two things: a video splitter and a capture card in your PC (as well as the appropriate software to run and stream everything of course).
You would basically run the output from the game system into the splitter, have one go to your TV as normal and have one go into the capture card on your computer. You don't want to try playing games through a capture card because the capturing process introduces lag which will affect gameplay.
You can get a simple component splitter like this (you'd also need to get the male to male adapter since the Wii has it's own plug for the output), but you would also need to split the audio inputs as well with a couple of something like this (you could of course just get 5 of the Y adapters to split each cable individually and not have to worry about male to male adapters and such).
If you wanted to stream/play both your PS3 and Wii via component that combined with the capture card you linked to looks like it would be enough - that capture card doesn't appear to have HDMI input though so you would have to use component (not sure if you're currently using component or HDMI on your TV).
You mention that your monitor doesn't have a component input - were you planning on trying to play the games using your monitor rather than your normal TV? It shouldn't be necessary to do so - with the splitter you can put the output anywhere you like so having it go to your normal TV seems like the best choice.
I bought this one back in November 2018 and used it to stream P4 Golden. Worked like a charm and the price was right: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT12OQA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You will need a USB power adapter, but you most likely have 20 lying around like everyone else at this point... lol
http://www.amazon.com/Splitter-compatible-swither-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0088HP93A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412098053&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+1+in+2+out this one looks like it may work
I use one of these to stream SSBM for a lot of NorCal. It's powered so there is no signal degradation to either source - my upscaler and the CRT. For SCART, you might need to find a SCART to RGB cable.
What's wrong with something like this? Or this if you want something more professional.
There's a couple things you could do...
I am thinking about this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P6VHLP0/ref=psdc_3224457011_rv_t1_B0113JAN8K
However, I just unplugged the 1GHz splitter in my room and connected the coax cable from the wall directly into my MoCa device, and still the same issue. I think this means there is a splitter somewhere else in the house that doesn't have the correct frequency.
Comcast should be here any minute so I am really hoping they can give me a layout of all splitter's and connections through the house so I can find the issue and resolve it.
Any advice on what to ask them would be greatly appreciated.
Maybe this is what you want. Granted it has four outputs but should still work for you.
I would suggest one of these two - 3 | 2
This sounds like a job for MOCA man!
Seriously though. Grab yourself a set of MOCA with the build in wifi and 2 ethernet ports like this
You'll also need a high frequency splitter for the best connection like this guy to split the signal from the wall to the modem to the MOCA. Do you also have TVs on each of the outlets? Then you would require a 3 way where the modem is and a 2 way where there isn't the modem.
Hm, interesting. How much signal loss do you normally get from generic splitters like this one?
It says -5.5dB on the label but I don't really trust that. What worries me more is that there are more splitters inside the walls that I can't even control. Those were already there when my parents bought the house in the 80s. So they're pretty old pieces of crap too. However, the outlet in my room I record from isn't affected by that, that one was a NEW wire the guy ran.
I should note though, that the cable techs seem to love those little $2 splitters. My dad has a computer opposite mine, and also wanted to be able to record TV, so they wanted to kill two birds with one stone. Rather than running two wires to the basement... you guessed it, they stuck a splitter between the two sides of the wall, and just ran one. So while I have some control over that one cable, there's still a splitter at the end. That's my main concern, as having those all over the place is obviously not good for the signal! Why else would they have a second cable coming in from the outside going straight to the modem and not getting caught up in the splitting nonsense?
So the take-away from this - you think the signal strength itself is fine (as it has been for the past 6 years, nothing changed as far as I know), but that the unusable picture I'm getting is because of MoCA interference from some unknown source sharing the same cable? It's probably still a good idea to replace that 6-year old Radio Shack amplifier with the one you linked, but I'm curious what the end result would be if I used the 20dB boost, and used a 3-way splitter coming off of that, it would negate the 20 and probably be a smaller boost. Still probably more than 7 you think? And then I can take one of those filters and put it before the amplifier/splitter.
yeah but are you splitting the component cable like this
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-3-RCA-Component-Splitter-102848/dp/B000RJJ0XW/
or like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-ST123HDA-Component-Splitter-Digital/dp/B000NK75HI/
Done, thank you.
Also yea, I took this picture right after a disconnect just to see if that was what it might be. Assuming I don't wan't to rewire any coaxial cable in my house, is using something like this a viable option?: https://www.amazon.com/PCT-Amplifier-Active-Return-PCTMAB10151A/dp/B0012HQL44/ref=pd_cp_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0012HQL44&pd_rd_r=B6GDK8EBNHKTYYZX5NAV&pd_rd_w=TNYSQ&pd_rd_wg=SL8e6&psc=1&refRID=B6GDK8EBNHKTYYZX5NAV
I have an HDCP stripper / HDMI splitter which I use to send video feeds from PS3/PS4/Nintendo Switch systems to a capture card and a screen. Splitters often offer HDCP stripping just check whatever you buy. This is the one I use. It's called the "ViewHD Ultra HD | 4K HDMI 1x2 Mini Powered Splitter | HDMI v1.4 | Model: VHD-Pluto", and it works fine. I am sure most are fine just stay away from 10$ items, i have been burned by them in the past.
Most retailers sell them, I can't point you to a specific one because I don't know where you are located in the world.
What you want is a coaxial bi-direction amplifier/splitter. You need one with a passive return path (that's where you connect the modem to). You can also use the more expensive active modem return models but only if your modem supports its (check if modems powerlevel (in dBmV) is higher then the splitter out puts) In your case I would recommend a passive one.
Here is one I found on amazon
And a cheaper one that lacks the surge protection
Hello, I have not tried a single switcher with audio extraction, but I have been using these devices in various combinations for my setups which have changed over time -
HDMI audio extraction:
IMAGE® HDMI to HDMI + SPDIF +... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HMVMQOS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
HDMI multiplexer:
C&E CNE46126 HDMI 5x1 5-Port... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0XPCGQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
HDMI splitter:
Portta PET0104P HDMI Splitter 1x4... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LMN5N8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And finally as my audio goes to speakers without volume control built in:
Optical to RCA, Digital to Analog Audio Converter, Optical to Analog Converter with Remote, DAC Converter Support 192KHz/24bit with IR Remote Control, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCKQPGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bb1CR55BuC2uP
These devices work with each other well, and right now, I am using the HDMI audio extraction and optical to rca audio converter to connect my Chromecast to my projector and Bose companion 20 speakers, and it works great!
Hope this is helpful.
Cable Modem & MOCA Premium Coaxial 2-way Splitter ideal for Bidirectional RG-6 RG-59 Communications https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NE0G23W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AafDCb5GPA84G
manche HDMI-Splitter "vergessen", das Output wieder mit HDCP zu verschlüsseln. dieses Gerät scheint aktuell recht beliebt zu sein.
Einfach nach "hdcp 2.2 stripper" suchen, findet man einiges
i use a cheap RCA flat one. I can see the TV towers near tinseltown from my window so I face the front of it north to get ION and QUBO ( i delete the other ch 21x channels). I actually have two antennas that run to an A/B switch I got online so if one becomes hard to get i can try movng the other one which is rabbit ears. I have tape marking the position of the flat antenna in case it gets yanked down... again.. by the dogs.
Ive used antenna tv since before the digital switch and I have to move my antenna a few times a year no matter if i have it on a nail in the wall or sitting on a shelf with the stand. I just wait til i am utterly irritated by it or have a very very very patient day. I miss my old tv that had a signal meter on it, it really helped get the 21s.
Use https://www.antennaweb.org/ to help you better orient yours and mouse over the different channel colors RED/YELLOW/GREEN to see the line of sight for those. I can't get 20 here by Sandalwood.
Ok, what you will need to do if you want to continue using the Arris router and integrate the WCB3000N is use a coax splitter so that you have coax connecting BOTH the MEB1100 and the Arris router to the wall.
The splitter you will need to use needs to be rated for MoCA 2.0 connections (this is how you get internet service through the coax for FiOS services) . Examples: https://www.verizon.com/home/accessories/2-way-coax-splitter/ and https://www.amazon.com/Holland-Electronics-GHS-2Pro-M-Splitter-5-1675Mhz/dp/B00P6VHLP0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_23_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QNA5VENZNET69K36XQSY
This setup would be similar to if you had TV service, even though you said don't.
You will still need to have the MEB1100 connected to the Arris router via ethernet. The reason why the MEB1100 still needs to have the ethernet connection to the router is because the MoCA adapter on Arris router does not handle WAN connections unlike the G1100 and the other ActionTec routers. The Arris router does handle all other MoCA connections just fine.
Once you have the splitter installed, you can take the WCB3000N to the upstairs to 2nd floor, plug in the coax, and it should receive a connection from the Arris router. Unfortunately, I don't remember if there was any additional setting up that needs to be done from the WCB3000N web interface or if it was plug and play.
I run a somewhat similar setup to extend the wifi at my house with the Arris router. Hopefully it works as you wanted!
If this thread is right, then this thing will strip the HDCP 2.2 signal.
You want this: https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Unbalanced-Digital-Performance-Splitter/dp/B009FN72PO
https://www.amazon.com/PCT-Amplifier-Active-Return-PCTMAB10151A/dp/B0012HQL44/
Hmm.... Your explanation is really good that means that they should do something to fix the problem. I guess the device I listed would probably not work in your scenario.
Why don't you just have whatever is running Plex plug HDMI into a splitter like this? You would just need to run some HDMI, then change the TV's input. Packs of HDMI cabling wouldn't cost that much either. AND if you're worried about your TV's being too far away for the signal, you could try to daisychain them together.
One thing you can try is getting a simple splitter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Unbalanced-Digital-Performance-Splitter/dp/B009FN72PO
...and connect your modem to it. Try both the -3.5dB port and one of the -7dB ports. See if you get any noticeable difference. Sometimes weird upload issues can be fixed by just doing this.
But realistically, the root of your problem here is probably simple -- your ISP, like all cable companies, has massively oversold their network.
Cable systems, when they were built, were designed for one-way transmission of video -- analog cable TV -- so the entire system was based around this. Later, when they added support for sending data back into the system (the "return path"), it was an afterthought. In the US, only the frequencies between 5 MHz and 42 MHz are used for the return path, and 54 MHz upwards (in your case, it appears to be up to 870 MHz) is the normal receive path.
When they start running into congested download speeds, they can just dedicate more downstream channels to Internet service, and it's not a problem. Not all of that 5-42 MHz range is usable -- there are a few chunks of it that tend to have so much interference from outside sources, they just have to not use them.
Typically, a fully maxed out system will have a single 3.2 MHz channel for backwards compatibility with old devices, and three 6.4 MHz channels. Once you factor in overhead, that 3.2 MHz channel has a usable bandwidth of about 9 megabits. Those 6.4 MHz channels each have about 27 megabits of usable bandwidth. That totals up to 90 megabits of upload capacity being shared across your entire cable node. On a good cable system, each node will only service a couple hundred people, but in many cases, they can be stretched to serve thousands.
There is the root of your problem: you're sharing 90 megabits of upload capacity with what is likely your entire neighborhood. The solution is simple: your cable company needs to do what is called a "node split". As the name implies, this splits the area served by your node into two, by adding another new node. Though, if you're paying for 30 megabits and getting 1.5, your area is probably long overdue and needs several of these. Cable companies won't want to do this, however, because it's extremely expensive.
The other option to consider is... is DSL available in your area? If you can get VDSL2 service (such as AT&T U-Verse, etc.) you'll avoid the upload congestion problem. Your download speeds will be comparatively bad, but you should get much more consistent upload speeds.
by excess noise I believe you are referring to the static hum you get from too much EMI? you could run that through a ground loop isolator to eliminate that hum.
they also make a HDMI splitter that has RCA/optical outs.
If the noctua fan corners isn't your thing, I did find this.
A coax amplifier helps a lot: http://www.amazon.com/PCT-BI-DIRECTIONAL-AMPLIFIER-BOOSTER-PASSIVE/dp/B000F28DP2/
You could use a component cable splitter. Then split the cables to both your capture card and tv
Edit
Here is what you'll need:
When you set it up, it should look like this image.
I was looking for these a while back as well. I wasn't able to turn anything up.
Edit: Did a bit more digging and got close but they're not exactly what you have pictured and wouldn't work the same. Maybe these will help lead someone in the right direction to finding what these are called.
> Currently the main coax line goes through the basement direct to the 1st floor wall outlet, then coax to the modem.
I’ve made a drawing of how I understand the internet could go to the splitter, then run again to the 1st floor outlet, then to the modem.
Ideally, you'd have zero interruptions between the coax coming from the street, all the way to the plug on the modem. Since it sounds like the coax enters the walls to the first floor from the basement, just be sure you eliminate any coax splitters by using a barrel adapter
UNLESS you also want a coax drop for Cable TV elsewhere in the house.
Then it's just a matter of making sure you've simplified the circuit to the street using the fewest number of splitters as you can. Each two-way split introduces approximately 3.5dB of loss (a little more than 50%) of power lost. Splitters are also known to be super poorly made and absolutely go bad after a few years of use. You may consider replacing any that you're using. These are decent ones.
> I'm feeling bold
Two of those ethernet strips there in the basement look like basic patch panels. They're just for organizing the cables and don't do any switching, per se. I'd figure out what connections you actually need in the house, beyond maybe a ethernet connection to the modem, the TV and your desktop PC and then go through and eliminate everything else. If you want to double check where the lines are terminated to through the massive web of cables, you can pick up an Ethernet Probe and Test kit to make tracking everything down easier. I'd (ideally) only buy one that has a dedicated ethernet jack and is made by Extech, Fluke, or Klein. As a bonus, It's a handy tool for tracing out ANY sort of wiring, too.
Once you eliminate all the unnecessary stuff, you can start making it look nice. Use some velcro wire ties and bundle everything until it looks respectable. You MAY find that you have odd-length cables used as patch cables between the switch and the patch panel. Don't cut anything, and maybe lay out anything you eliminate by length so you can reuse them if your now-neat-looking bundle could benefit from different-length cables. Don't forget to label everything for clarity using your own philosophy.
> I’m not sure how to use this stuff, if it’s past it’s prime, or if I should even bother. But, If it could be useful I’d like to use it. I just don’t understand it despite reading the sticky’s, etc.
You'll feel a lot more comfortable once you understand what everything is and where it all goes.
All that cable is probably Cat5 or Cat5e at best. If you want to be ready for gigabit speeds in the coming years, you might consider running some new Cat6a or better. I don't know anything about the big switch in the photos, but it's probably doing the job fine for now - If you want faster than 100mbit/s network speeds though, you'll need to upgrade it along with the ethernet. As with the ethernet, it's not a priority, just a nice-to-have.
The big coax amplifier you've got there was probably built in 1974 (note: pre-internet) and is all kinds of lossy/noisy mess. I'd go ahead and get rid of that and anything coax-related that you don't think you'll end up using. There's better stuff available on the market now for stupidly cheap, if you decide that you still need an amplified coax signal.
I'd love to see more pictures once you get it all put together and looking nice. If you need any further hardware advice, let us know!
HDFury does not as far as I know; I bought this one on Amazon that works fine. I had some trouble with it that's well-documented in the product reviews, but they can be avoided if you make sure you are using HDMI cables with the appropriate AWG rating for the cable length.
In terms of the HDMI to CVBS 4K scaler, if you don't already have it I would not use it. There's no benefit to using that versus whatever came with your Lightberry. IIRC the 4K scaler is a separate purchase for $100 or more. The HDFury Linker is downscaling the signal to 1080p (or lower) for you to process so you don't need a second downscaler from Lightberry.
Absolutely. Something like this?
Expert Connect 1x2 HDMI Splitter | 2 Port | 1 in - 2 out | Ultra HD 4K/2K @ 60Hz (60 fps), HDR | HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2 | Full HD/3D | 1080P | DTS | Dolby Digital | Direct TV | 18 Gbps Bandwidth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M66DMNH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TmRWzbXV2CXTE
You could try running one of these to see if it improves the signal at all.
https://smile.amazon.com/PCT-BI-DIRECTIONAL-AMPLIFIER-BOOSTER-PASSIVE/dp/B000F28DP2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505110464&sr=8-4&keywords=cable+booster
If it gets no better and Cox is not doing anything to improve the issue otherwise an FCC complaint may be in order.
https://consumercomplaints.fcc.gov/hc/en-us
You should look into using component. Wii component cables are dirt cheap, CRTs that takes component input aren't uncommon, and amps aren't even that pricey. It should look a fair bit better.
Usually a cheap HDMI splitter is able to bypass this, however you will have to go through amazon reviews to check if others have had success with it.
https://www.amazon.com/Revesun-Splitter-1080p-Ultra-Definition/dp/B014EZ7266#customerReviews
Is that different than this?
Or the switch in the OP?
Actually my problem is a little more: I want to record OTA programs on my stand alone DVR while watching cable or OTA, or record a cable program while watching OTA, without connecting and disconnecting cables.
Is that too much to ask?
Expert Connect 1x2 HDMI Splitter | 2 Port | 1 in - 2 out | Ultra HD 4K/2K @ 60Hz (60 fps), HDR | HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2 | Full HD/3D | 1080P | DTS | Dolby https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M66DMNH?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
$42.98
I do have to change the EDID mode (4 small switches on the splitter assembly [HDR setting up,up,up,up]) when I want to change to the HDR display. When using standard 4K display EDID has to be in the [up,up,up,down]. Power cycle (10 second wait in between) the splitter after every EDID change in order for the new mode to take effect.This second mode allows for dual display 4K (without HDR in my case) or whichever display is powered on if you only want single display.
Would this work for a tri monitor set up? As in can I extend the display across all 3 monitors with this? Generic DK104 PET0104P HDMI Splitter 1x4 Ports 4 Port 1080P v1.3 HDTV 3D HD Audio. http://www.amazon.com/Generic-DK104-PET0104P-Splitter-Ports/dp/B003LMN5N8
I've had this exact problem more than once, and the solution is toput a 1N4148 diode inline on the power (5V) and it will fix it. I've done this on two separate builds with Dodos and this has always fixed it.
/u/m7n had the same problem with his Dodo as well.
Have you looked into an HDMI splitter?
I recently ordered one (just received it today) to accomplish a similar task in my home office. On my two monitor workstation, I want the option to send the monitor 1 display to a TV mounted on the wall nearby. If the monitor and TV share resolution (e.g. 1080p) it should be seamless.
This is what I got. It's cheap, has reasonable reviews, and appears to do what I want it to do. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT12OQA/
(Note: If you're dealing with 4k video, this isn't the splitter for you.)
It actually wasn't that expensive (especially compared to an all-in-one solution):
HDMI splitter|$12|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT12OQA/|
:--|:--|:--|
USB capture card|$16|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WSAWZ1M/|
HDMI to RCA|$12|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W9LQDBB/|
5-port USB charger (optional, was $17 when I bought it)|$20|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN1LM7Q/|
Just a guess but to fix washed out colors it sounds like the signal needs to be amplified, maybe something like this
Hey there. We ended up going with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAIBQ9E/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have this one and it works great, no more flickering screen.
I have the same issue, I have one similar to this, and it works great:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0088HP93A/
You may also need newer HDMI cables, as my older ones did not work with it, I used the Amazon Essentials High speed HDMI cables.
Tried flashing again, this time successfully flashed PKMN Yellow ROM on 3.18c.
Ordered these diodes:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149K5WH2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
How can I tell which side of the diode goes with which pad? Here's a PCB photo, I am assuming this is the trace that needs to be cut and the pads that need to be soldered to...
http://imgur.com/9w28ROv
As always, thanks for your help.
Cheap but good quality, I use this one with no issues: Amazon hdmi splitter
You could try a HDMI splitter that scrubs HDCP. I got this one after my Vizio would flicker every 5 mins:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4D3RTU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One of these: http://amzn.com/B00006JPEA
You wouldn't be able to do handheld mode, but you could dock the Switch and use an HDMI splitter to send one output to the projector, and another to a computer monitor or small TV.
Is your TV even a HDTV? Please tell us you're not one of THOSE people, that has a HDTV set and a digital cable box, but connects them using a coaxial cable so all you ever see is standard definition (yes, unfortunately there are people like that).
In any case, your problem is that the coaxial cable output (the one labelled CABLE OUT) is standard definition analog NTSC, which is neither "Digital ATSC" nor "Digital QAM". You need to be connecting the cable that comes INTO the cable box (the one currently connected to the CABLE IN connector) to your WinTV. Then, scanning one or the other of those should work PROVIDED you are in an area where not all cable channels are scrambled. If that works, then you need to get a cable splitter (looks like https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Coaxial-Splitter-Bidirectional-Communications/dp/B00NE0G23W) and run the cable into the input on that, then connect the two outputs to your cable box and to your digital tuner.
However if you still can't scan anything, it means you either hooked it up incorrectly, or your cable system has no unencrypted channels. In any case, if you want to receive encrypted channels, you will either need a tuner that supports a cable card (and that assumes you can still get a cable card from your cable company, since I have heard they are being phased out), or you will need to be content with the free unencrypted channels (if any). Or, you could put up a TV antenna and run that into your tuner card to get your local channels, then use a streaming device such as a Roku to watch content from pay channels (but for that you would need a HDTV; I don't think most streaming devices have a coaxial output).
And for crying out loud, if you have a HDTV, then before you do anything else get a HDMI cable to connect the cable box to the TV, so you can enjoy true high definition!