(Part 2) Best soldering guns & irons according to redditors
We found 868 Reddit comments discussing the best soldering guns & irons. We ranked the 178 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![Anbes Soldering Iron Kit, [Upgraded] 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool with ON-OFF Switch, 8-in-1 Screwdrivers, 2pcs Soldering Iron Tips, Solder Sucker, Wire Cutter,Tweezers,Soldering Iron Stand](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51eoBQel7BL.jpg)
>soldering
Bro, learn how to do it. It's very simple. Buy this kit It has everything you'll need for soldering projects. Watch a couple youtube videos for "replacing an input jack on guitar" and you can figure it out.
Be extra careful not to burn yourself. It fucking hurts bad because those irons get hot.
If not, just go to ace hardware or any other hardware store and you can find a washer/nut. Guitar center or any other local shop will probably just give you them.
These are super reliable and super effective. $265
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FR-301-Desoldering-Tool/dp/B07BKSLLG9/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539496196&sr=8-6&keywords=desoldering+gun
This one gets good reviews and Amazon and is more affordable. $200
https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Function-Soldering-Desoldering-Absorber/dp/B009Q5ZH58/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1539496394&sr=8-27&keywords=desoldering+gun
These are really good if you clean it often as you use it and are even more affordable. $99
https://www.amazon.com/Desoldering-S-993A-Electric-Suction-Desordering/dp/B073TRPBHM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1539496513&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=desoldering+gun&psc=1#customerReviews
Despite how old these videos are I found them amazing for "reteaching" myself how to solder. It also does a great job of explaining what you want in an iron, and why cheap irons don't do well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s&list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837
I've had great luck with this iron https://amzn.com/B00FZPSX3G. I also got the tip cleaning paste (so nice to have) and the "gold" tip cleaning brush. Along with the helping hand board holder. And of course some solder wick. I'm going to get a solder sucker as well. Decent equipment goes a LONG ways in soldering.
I've gone through about a half a dozen of the $5-$15 radio shack irons before I finally decided to spend the money on a nice one. I had no idea what I was missing!
There are a few types. The cheapest one is just a hot pencil. You plug it in and it gets hot. It's not adjustable at all - it just gets up to whatever level of power it draws, regardless of the work it's doing. Typically they cycle between not-hot-enough and way-too-hot for whatever the job is. :-)
The second-cheapest kind is the same thing, but with a little selector switch, so you can switch between low and high. I think one of mine was 5W/15W. Same as before - it's a power level, not a temperature.
Third type is the same thing, but with more adjustments. You can vary the heat more accurately, but it's still only by power level, not actual temperature.
The good kind is the kind that measures its own temperature and tries to maintain it. You can turn the dial to the temperature you want, and no matter what the work is, it will heat up as needed to maintain that temperature.
I have the WESD51 (Digital display, adjustable temperature). It was expensive, but I got a good deal on it (only $10 or so more than the analog version). I was really sold on the temperature controls, and it makes a huge difference.
You'll have to carefully read specs to see if "Adjustable" means adjustable POWER or adjustable TEMPERATURE. Some irons will even say that they are adjustable temperature, but really they are just a hot-cold knob that adjusts power.
I shouldn't recommend a specific iron, since the only ones I've used are the terrible $5 ones and the WESD51, but I've heard good things about the WCL100. It seems to have decent reviews. If you can't justify the $80+ for a temperature-controlled iron like the WES51 or WESD51, look into this one, since it's only $40.EDIT: I take that back! I should have listened to myself and NOT recommended it. As soon as I read the reviews I discovered that you can get a constant-temperature iron for around the same price! Something like This 850F or this 750F. In short - do your research! Temperature controlled is key!
ANOTHER EDIT: The work I'm doing is generally through-hole components and similar small electronics. I leave the temperature dial at around 700F most of the time. So if $80 for a true adjustable-temperature soldering station is too much to swallow, save money by getting a constant-temperature iron at the temperature you want, instead of getting a shitty adjustable-wattage iron.
If you want a station, there really are two which are the standard:
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11704
If you want just an Iron I would get a Weller Wp25, 30, or 35 depending on how hot you desire.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WP25-Professional-25Watts-Soldering/dp/B000B63BTU
The radioshack Pro Line actually looks quite nice at $30(on sale for $20 this week)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=15772146
Very good deal and nice quality, downside being they only sell one type of tip and it doesnt come in different wattages.
This $20 Kit on Amazon might be goo entry level... I have NO idea if the iron is any god but have seen people use them and they work fine. This one comes with a multimeter for a few bucks more. The tool you will find a lot of use for is that curved tweezer. It can open switches, hold components, pick up clipped resistor/diode leads etc.
​
If you have never soldered do NOT let an expensive keyboard be the first time... get some PCB's and resistors and then watch youtube videos of soldering... Pete from 1upkeyboards has tons... you might need to scrub through to get to the soldering or just search youtube for soldering videos. Soldering is not that hard but if you do not know what you are doing it is easy to scew the board up and ruining a board sucks.
​
Think twice, solder once... the biggest mistakes are not thinking it through and then you find you soldered the switches and plate BEFORE the stabilizers or the Pro Micro before switches and desoldering is a pita and is easy to burn the pads.
​
Try the Sweet16 or the 9Key first. You have to setup the QMK software no matter what so those are nice affordable ways to get a board built fast and then build and flash your firmware.
​
Have fun.
It shouldn't be too difficult, but... It's kind of a "good news / bad news" situation.
The good; The actual process of disconnecting the mic, stripping the connection, and soldering in the new jack would take maybe 10 minutes, assuming you don't care how pretty it is. A cheap soldering kit with a meter like the one I just found HERE is all you really need, tool wise. Add another few bucks for the new jack and you're all set.
The bad; Line level and mic level are quite different beasts, so simply replacing a mic-in with a line-in could lead to some pretty bad distortion. The ease of the project is entirely dependant on the quality of the tape deck we're talking about. Basically, there are two ways this could go: Either you pull out the mic and it's an entirely enclosed system that the maker added on after designing the rest of the unit, or it's just a mic that sends a raw signal to processors on the main circuit board. There could be extra problems with both scenarios, but the first one is what you're hoping for. No matter what, it may require additional gear to either amplify or attenuate the line-in signal to match the original input level.
I'm sure there are a ton of people who are FAR more experienced than I am with this, so you really should hold out for someone who could do it better. I haven't touched a soldering iron in over a decade, but I do have a degree in audio, so it's not like I'm a complete novice. If nobody else steps up, I could at least take a look and tell you how hard of a project it would actually be.
For through-hole components you want this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BKSLLG9/
For surface mount components a hot air rework station will melt the solder so you can remove the components. If you add some ChipQuik low-temp solder first it will make it easier to remove the components.
Parts
Build Tools
It'll certainly work, but I don't know how well. The larger the flame, the less control you have over the color pattern.
I usually use this butane torch on a low setting for ring-sized items. It puts out a blue flame a little thinner than a pencil. The narrow flame allows you to concentrate the heat in a very small area, leaving narrow color bands.
I've also used this torch head with propane. It colors the steel just fine, but the color bands are considerably wider because it's harder to concentrate the heat.
Either way makes for an interesting piece, of course.
I believe that the particular design pictured is made of iron wire and heated in a gas flame. If you want an electrically heated version of that you can probably do this with a high wattage soldering iron like this one.
I would add that you may have a problem with mechanical strength of a formed piece of wire that you are going to be heating and using repeatedly. You will probably want to reinforce it with a high temperature material like a sheet of fiber reinforced magnesium board.
It may not be necessary to have a torch, but it helps immensely when trying to build contact coils.
As far as convincing someone that the torch is safe, i would suggest going with a high quality torch. I like the blazer line, and have been using one for over 3 years. I also use it a lot now that I don't smoke and can never find a lighter, so it could be purchased to 'light charcoal'.
If you want to learn. I would get a decent iron $10+
Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, Yome 14-in-1 60w Adjustable Temperature Soldering Iron with ON/OFF Switch, 5pcs Soldering Iron Tips, Desoldering Pump, Tweezers, Stand, Solder, PU Carry Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P84TTCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Lg82CbXBFTRTQ
You can get some stuff to soldier on at a thrift store.
Anbes Soldering Iron Kit 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool,Digital Multimeter,2pcs Soldering Iron Tips,Desoldering Pump,Wire Stripper Cutter,Tweezers,Soldering Iron Stand,2pcs Electronic Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VDX4B7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ejW0CbSGX1M1G
> how hard would the build you linked be
Not hard. There's an assembly manual that shows everything you need to do.
> Do I need like a soldering iron or anything like that?
Yes. This one for $13 has a stand, solder, and an on/off switch, in case you don't have one already.
You'll also need wood glue and clamps.
> Could I break/mess up the parts easily?
No, it's pretty straight forward.
-------------------------------------------------------
Building that kit is definitely not for everyone. I totally get it if you don't want to. I won't be offended. It will sound better, but you'll have to make it, and not everyone wants to do that. I get it.
----------------------------------------------------
> JBL Charge 4
I have a JBL Charge and it is nice for just a little bluetooth portable speaker, but it doesn't sound all that great. About what you'd expect. It is waterproof like you mentioned, which is definitely great.
---------------------------------------------------------
I think, what it seems like to me, is that you want something like the little JBL and a pair of speakers that you could keep at home. Two separate 'systems' maybe would work best for you.
This is the torch I use. I like it a lot, and it is surprisingly fuel-efficient, though doesn't work for creme brulee.
I also like Rio Grande for my jewelry supplies (including silver if you know what you need). You can buy copper from the hardware store, and if there is a jewelry supply store where you live that would obviously be ideal.
Different kinds of flux work in different ways, but I've never had trouble using any particular type as long as it was clean. As a reminder, being successful in jewelry-level soldering is mostly about having a clean join (and solder does not bridge a gap).
You can solder silver and copper together without trouble, but the line will not blur. Since the solder is silver-colored, ideally you will use exactly the amount you need whenever soldering copper, and then can sand off any excess solder so there isn't messy silver solder all over the copper surface. There are also ways to copper plate something entirely, but that doesn't sound like what you're looking for.
Let me know if you have other questions!
Electronics tools like soldering iron, multimeter.
Hakko FX601-02 - This model is pretty popular for stained glass. I picked it up and am very happy with it. Heats up super fast and doesnt go cool too quickly which is good for this work. Wattage might seem low but it doesnt need as much wattage as a typical solder pen. Temp control is a good feature.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPSX3G
I got this cheap soldering kit when I got into building keyboards. It's been great
Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 16-in-1, 60W Adjustable Temperature Soldering Iron, 5pcs Soldering Iron Tips, Solder, Rosin, Solder Wick, Stand and Ot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VLFGXL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_jPZFfDdQP9txz
I found that the stock XP-L warm emitter had an unpleasant yellow tint. I performed the swap using the hot air blower on my Portasol Suprer Pro 125 and solder paste. The tint is greatly improved after the swap, but the beam is still fairly ringy. I will later attempt to apply a diffusion film.
EDIT: Here is a beamshot after adding a DC Fix diffusion film.
I was curious about the Blazer.
Is This the one that you're talking about?
The capacitor was nothing fancy, just a 2200uF capacitor. Apparently that one capacitor tends to be a bit of an issue in that model of player for whatever reason...
I'm pretty sure that the iron I have is this one along with a holder that looks just like this one, though I'd have to go double-check the iron to be sure that's the one I have. Seems to work pretty well, and you can replace the stock tip with this little pointy one to work on small stuff better.
Agreed. I did okay with my $20 radioshack firestarter, and couldn't be happier with my $35 Weller WP25. I can even solder soic no problem. Get the st7 tip ($5.) Get solder wick. Get solder flux. Build your own stand.
Spend the other $50 on components like there's no tomorrow.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WP25-Professional-25Watts-Soldering/dp/B000B63BTU
disclosure azide_0x37 has a major weller boner
I had one of these too:
http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-Micro-Butane-Soldering-ST2200T/dp/B000PS9TQI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1314194817&sr=8-1
Kind of looks like the smaller one on thinkgeek. The electric one might be ok, but I don't think it will be as fun as the butane plumbing torch.
The bigger one is much better for both weeds and plumbing. I actually burned a hole through the copper elbow I was trying to sweat on (terrible plumbing skills).
My guess is that killing weeds in this manner is so manly that it actually increases your testosterone.
The cost is why I never got one before but I was looking at the little cheap LCD ones that are $35 and decided to check ebay. I found several full sized ones there that are fairly cheap. I got a nice dual trace Metermaster MM 200 (cheaper model) for $85. It's portable but still weighs 20lbs! It's really all you need though. Works perfectly.
Desoldering: I got this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-Contained-Desoldering-Internal-Carrying/dp/B00PGFAJWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467383356&sr=8-1&keywords=Aoyue+8800+Self+Contained+Desoldering+Gun
$260. The only problem is the trigger has no spring in it. I absolutely cannot understand how a company can go to all the trouble of designing and building something like this but NOT bother to put a spring in the trigger. Unbelievable!! So that means when you pull the trigger the pump stays on until you can work the button back out somehow. I'm getting pretty good at it (push it on a slight angle or something) but it's annoying. (maybe I can open it up and fix it someday)
Other than that WOW, it works perfectly!! My tech recommended a better one but it was over $400 so I decided to give this one a shot. So far I'm VERY happy. We'll see how it holds up when I recap my CS-40m soon.
I do not have much luck with wick or a solder sucker. Takes forever. I took out an 8 pin chip in less than 2 minutes with this thing. Sooooo nice!
Some suggestions from my working with Kleer Kote:
I'll shoot you a PM of my current epoxy resin project (not quite ready to share it with the world at large yet :)
Good luck!
i like my small porta-sol (its butane powered) for anything that needs high temps.
i get 2-3 hours on a fill, and 3-4 fills from a standard butane container.
http://www.amazon.com/Portasol-010589330-Super-125-Watt-Heat/dp/B003H6NN2Q
Welcome to the fam!
Cheap option: This 5-pack of Eagle lighters.
Pro option: This Blazer micro torch.
Fancy option: This Xikar Allume lighter.
A year later, two of the five Eagle torches are still working, which is good for the price and they make fine backups. The Xikar is lovely, feels great, lights every time, the tank is really small though. The Blazer is my all-day everyday torch.
I strongly suggest that you hold off on using the WPA until you are very familiar with it dry. With WPA you lose a lot of the feedback (warmth, harshness) and it's much easier to accidentally combust as a result.
Anbes Soldering Iron Kit, [Upgraded] 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool with ON-OFF Switch, 8-in-1 Screwdrivers, 2pcs Soldering Iron Tips, Solder Sucker, Wire Cutter,Tweezers,Soldering Iron Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJNKQ8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8zxIDb81905YW
I literally bought my first ever soldering iron a week ago. It was $20 on Amazon and changed out the batteries in all my Pokemon games in less than 5 minutes. Just watch some YouTube tutorials.
A lot of the soldering manufacturers source from one manufacturer in China, and stamps their own brand on them. So essentially, you're getting same products.
If you're looking $10-20, go with something like: http://kipkaykits.com/product/30w-soldering-iron/
If you're looking $30-50, go with something like: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WP35-35-Watt-Professional-Soldering/dp/B000B5YIYS/
And if you want to splurge, go with one of the Weller variables for around $100: http://www.zoro.com/i/G0743032/
Either way, these soldering irons, for the most part, should last you a very long time.
Grab a soldering iron, practice on some junk boards and try and replace the potentially failed capacitors yourself. It wouldn't be hard at all and at least worth a shot. This video walks through the generic steps. Just make sure you get a decent iron. Anything in the Weller pro series should work.
In many ways this university is the worst public school I have ever attended. I think that is because as opposed to my community college which is trying to get people to transfer to a 4 year school, the university is overtly focus on filter kids out of qualifying for graduate school. The university is a social filter and the way they go about it was utter culture shock to me upon first transferring.
I'm a re-entry student (34 years old) at a University of California school (Santa Cruz) and we are locked out of most of the laboratories outside of our class session, where the room sits idle... Everything, oscilloscopes, multi-meters, desktops and monitors, is cable tied and padlocked not only down to an anchor point but together as well. So if I turn my monitor vertically, invariably all of the rest of the equipment gets pulled violently along with it.
Anyhow, I'm even more disinclined to buy tools because I already have a great deal of kit, just not here in my dorm room... My "soldering station" is actually the Hakko FX601-02
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX601-02-Adjustable-Temperature-Controlled/dp/B00FZPSX3G#customerReviews
But for PCB electronics I just use a vintage 15 watt...
I appreciate you telling me about the Iris because maybe I can get my nephews to try and build it for me, or burn my sisters house down trying...
​
GLE2016 Electric Soldering Iron Kit 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Soldering Iron with 5pcs Different Tips, 1 Solder Wire 1.0mm Dia. (Soldering Irons) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N413T8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kbZxCb3B839HK
60w adjustable for 11 bucks. Can't beat it.
Those are fine but honestly you don't need all those extra bit and bobs.
Just get the same basic soldering iron off Amazon, a desoldering iron like this one or a desoldering pump.
It will completely dry out.
If you are really that worried about it, desolder the switch but be warned: if you are going to desolder anything, get something that can handle the job.
https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Contained-Desoldering-Internal-Carrying/dp/B00PGFAJWS
Is this any good for soldering keyboards? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BLK7D49/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.EkDCbK3MBQ0W
QIANGUANG® Jet Flame Lighter Blow... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06Y2J74T8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This lighter is going strong for me worth the price
If you have none of those tools and that's all you can afford it's not the end of the world but in general you should beware most any "entry kit" type product like that. I just looked on amazon and there are kits like this for under $30 that include a soldering iron, tweezers, solder sucker, and even a fucking multimeter all in a travel case.
Looks great on the surface but what that really means is that all of those tools are hot garbage to leave them any room for profit. Maybe they'll be fine, maybe they won't, but they're definitely going to be the cheapest versions available.
Try to focus your money on specifically the tools you need and look for something in the middle of the price range among available options and you'll be fine.
Agree with this - get a good iron (Hakko or a Weller WESD51) and a cheap 858D hot air station if you decide you need that. You're not going to need a hot air station unless you start doing surface mount work. Also +1 on the advice to just get a beefy soldering gun for automotive/big wire stuff, you don't need fancy temperature control for soldering wires on battery terminals or whatever it is you're planning on.
For lead-free solder, I've been using low temperature alloys for surface mount stuff, but I think it is mostly just available in paste form.
Thank you for the recommendation. I still feel like I'm leaning towards the less expensive model because I don't understand what the extra 50 bucks gets me. My other hobby is guns, and I go through this all the time with new gun buyers- "Why should I get a glock when a Hi point does the same exact thing (shoot bullets) for $350 less" then sure enough, a few months later they are trading their shitty Hi point for a glock. It's no thatthey are stingy, they just aren't educated enough to understand the greater reliability, features, aftermarket support, etc that spending the extra couple hundo buys em... Anyways, I recognize that I am an uneducated buyer, and I don't want to be Hi point guy!
Can you give me an idea of what the advantages of this iron are vs a less expensive model, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPSX3G?cache=9eadc5f058366bac4fcb6fef6c6934d2&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1406100528&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
Also, will a light user such as myself (I might do two okr/raptor boxes and one random repair/small project) really be getting a better user experience and making better solder joints with the Hakko?
Portasol PowerPro?
At home I just use one of the professional portasols. You can grip it right up next to the tip, and it comes with like 4 different sizes. The case has a stand built in and everything heats up and cools quickly. It's what I used
It lists 7 tips, but only 4 are for soldering.
Portasol 010589330 Super Pro 125-Watt Heat Tool Kit with 7 Tips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H6NN2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vZPGxbT298XCK
Thanks for so many suggestions! I won't be doing much out of the ordinary. It's mostly occasional hobby stuff. The most complicated projects I can see myself taking on is the Useless box kit and the Mintypi emulator system, which, from what I've seen, don't seem to require a degree or god levels of skill, time, and precision to complete. Then again, that could just be me overestimating my own skill.
Since it has been a while, I've already submitted my Christmas list to my dad with all the stuff I want, and since we're on a budget I went with this set. It isn't a Hakko by any means, but it looks fine for what I need it for. I will definitely keep those Hakkos in mind, though. I'll be needing an upgrade for when I decide to pick up bigger projects in the future!
I have everything else covered except for the heat resistant mat. I can see it not only protecting my wooden desk, but also containing and solder bits that might fly around if I'm solder sucking away mistakes or oversoldering my iron (I'm so cautious it's unlikely, but you never know). I'll see if I can weasel it in. ;P
Yea thats it.
https://www.amazon.com/Portasol-010589330-Super-125-Watt-Heat/dp/B003H6NN2Q
Couldn't think of the name.
>Using transformer wire to scale down the thickness of the cable. Awful.
Usability trumps serviceability I guess.
>I use a 35W fixed Weller.
Like this one? I find it too hot for most electronic applications (850°F, ~455°C), i.e. when I don't have to solder lacquer-isolated wires :).
Put it on a plate, hit it with this http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-Micro-Butane-Soldering-ST2200T/dp/B000PS9TQI
Really not that difficult
Get this
Weller D550PK 260-Watt/200W Professional Soldering Gun Kit with Three Tips and Solder in Carrying Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N7S1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_VjDzDbMT8SJD2
And fresh high quality rosin core solder and it’s a piece of cake.
I was thinking something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX601-02-Adjustable-Temperature-Controlled/dp/B00FZPSX3G/
which would be possible anywhere a mains powered iron is. Using a station in the field would be a little overkill :)
though now that I see that I remember I have a hakko 15w iron that's unregulated, and it worked well enough when I used it.
Would this kit be ok?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9RLBR1/ref=psdc_3207126011_t3_B06XZ31W3M
https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-Adjustable-Temperature-Desoldering-Electronic/dp/B074W3W55T or
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Electronics-Adjustable-Temperature-Portable/dp/B071VLFGXL
The latter has side-cutters, so get it if you are installing LEDs. It also has desoldering wick, which is very useful for when you fuck up (vacuum pump alone may not be enough).
If you are looking to do a lot of desoldering a small hand pump will clog up and piss you off to no end. A de soldering gun on the other hand, while expensive, will work much better. https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Contained-Desoldering-Internal-Carrying/dp/B00PGFAJWS
503 Torch. Just slightly over $10. But this gives you both soft flame and torch as well as being refillable. I love mine.
QG Mini Jet Pencil Flame 503 Torch Butane Gas Fuel Welding Soldering Lighter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2J74T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_X7f1Bb1BNZGYK
So im gonna end up buying this because its going to allow me to check the voltage of the batteries as well plus its better value for my dollar:
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Kit-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B073VDX4B7/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539553716&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=solder+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51P9eT8SbjL&ref=plSrch#immersive-view_1539553866516
I bought some thinner silver bearing rosin core solder at home depot today b/c the reviews in the listing said that spool was bigger and harder to use for electronics. My girlfriend wouldnt let me get the lead based stuff :/ (not much i can do lol) im also going to order some flux paste from amazon as well since you highly recommended i use it for the job. Then last but not least ive gotta order a battery, although i might get a few, gotta do some more research and find the right one.
Overall i think im gonna be good to go, found some older electronics from storage that im going to practice on and yeah, wouldnt have been as easy without all the info you provided! Thanks again, ill update you on how it all goes but wanted to share what i decided on buying! I’m Super excited to start this little project later week
I'm not sure what you mean by "...more controlled way to connect each button to ground".
As far as connecting wires to pins, soldering is often the best way. A tutorial on soldering would probably be useful if you've never done it before. I recommend lead free solder, some flux, and a cheapo soldering iron with a finer chisel tip. Such as, this one. Or, something comparable. Flux: Rosin Flux. You want to make sure it's a thick rosin based flux otherwise you may have to obsessively your joint and the surrounding area.
​
Google images:
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/gc_diagram1.jpg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yy4Wdbp3cpM/VRYTb7T4fGI/AAAAAAAAAbU/AcAbPTgP05g/s1600/2015-03-27%2B17.22.34.jpg
http://gc-forever.com/mega/Ashen/Controller_Trimming/1.png
​
The button work by closing the circuit to ground. Personally. I would just solder the wires to the corresponding contacts on the PCB simply because it would make trouble shooting easier on an unknown board. A daisy chain could be fine, but only if all those grounds are a common ground, but with signals I'm not sure that can be relied upon. If they aren't a common ground, linking them could lead to unexpected/undesired behavior. You could probably use a voltmeter to carefully explore if they are a common ground, and if you find that they are, your daisy chain idea would probably be fine. I would use solder and cover joints with shrink tubing.
You can fuss with connectors, but that limits your options considerably.
Generally you'll want to mount the power supply somewhere on a wall or a shelf somewhere, and then run wire to the strips. Working with pre-made stuff, you won't be able to position things very well; those mostly work for under-cabinet lighting.
All the tapes work by having two copper traces along the length for a +12V and a ground. There are pads placed along the length that you can solder wires to, and marks for where you can cut the tape. Making this connection is pretty easy, even if you don't have soldering experience. If you're into DIY/woodworking stuff, it shouldn't be a problem.
The power supplies have a standard terminal block. These are basically little screws that clamp onto a bare wire. You simply need to be able to strip the end of a wire of its insulation to make the connection. Ideally you solder the wire first so the strands don't poke out and short on something, but that's optional.
To wire this all up, you'll need a wall-power cable (you can buy these pre-made, or simply cut the cord off a discarded appliance) to connect to the power supply. Then, you'll need to run paired wires to the actual strips themselves. Note that this is a 12V system, so the amperage can actually be considerable. A full strip is going to draw about 5 amps, so size the wire accordingly. 18AWG is a good start, but if you want to do a long run (>10feet) I'd go for 16AWG.
A simple iron is all you need (https://smile.amazon.com/GLE2016-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Different/dp/B01N413T8U/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542140733&sr=1-13&keywords=soldering+iron)
but the extras in a kit like this might be useful if you don't have any electronics tools: https://smile.amazon.com/Soldering-Electronics-Adjustable-Temperature-Portable/dp/B071VLFGXL/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542140733&sr=1-14&keywords=soldering+iron
Buy something cheap then if you find you’re using it often then go for Weller or Hakko. My brother swears by the Hakko but I use a Weller. But I highly recommend buying stuff when you need it.
[503 Torch](QG Mini Jet Pencil Flame 503 Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2J74T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GT9TBbBEN4KSH)
Single flame, pretty cheap, works well. Just make sure to turn it off before you put it down😁
As others are saying double/triple flame will be better outside but might give you a little less control on temps/a faster heat up.
Edit:
I also picked up a titanium tip and a water wand and use that directly on a bubbler, pretty much my favorite combination.
What about these? Which one do I pick?
ANBES Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6D-BCbR2BG953
Anbes Soldering Iron Kit, [Upgraded] 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool with ON-OFF Switch, 8-in-1 Screwdrivers, 2pcs Soldering Iron Tips, Solder Sucker, Wire Cutter,Tweezers,Soldering Iron Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJNKQ8W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_hF-BCb4RY4RZZ
Or do you pick something else entirely?
Then you are probably good on the butane. I had your same issue even with good butane. Went through two torches in a matter of weeks and I don't even use every day. Bought this torch and it's worked great with my vector 14 times filtered butane.
https://www.amazon.com/Blazer-PB207CR-Butane-Refillable-Lighter/dp/B001EDW9ME is this the one you mean? im hoping to get a good torch cuz im tired of fuckin around with the shitty ones
You aren't worthless. Hell, the fact that you are even interested in doing things yourself is encouraging. You just need to be patient and scour CL and FB Marketplace for stuff people are practically giving away. Then, tear those things apart and build them into something good. Nobody hates you. You just need to consciously make the decision to wait for the stuff you want. First thing; get either one of those little Nobsound NS-01G chip amps or a stupid cheap old AVR used. That gives you a decent amp to start with. After that, look for cheap speakers you might not actually like, but could tear apart for drivers or crossover parts.
LEARN TO SOLDER. It's absolutely the most important skill you can have if you are serious about DIY and reclaiming stuff. A cheapo soldering iron kit is like $15 bucks on Amazon. This is actually the best deal because you ALSO get a multimeter, which is the OTHER thing you really need to know how to use.
Once you get that, you can tear apart all sorts of electronics and BUILD your own stuff, and save TONS of money through the years, AND learn a valuable skill as well.
Don't get discouraged. I'm sorry if I came across as harsh. It's just frustrating to see a person who obviously cares about getting good audio sort of shoot himself in the foot over and over.
[Soldering Iron I use] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJNKQ8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fp4PDb7MMWHSY)
[Tip Cleaner] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076X1NYBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.p4PDbBFGG9GA)
[Flux Core Wire] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Sr4PDb7JX44SZ)
Agreed. That's a nice way of saying that, too, without the judgement. Asking someone why they haven't done something yet, then following that up with how inexpensive something is ignores the fact that any price is a huge hurdle for many people. Buying a "cheap" temp controlled iron is still a huge difference from a radio shack $15 iron, and might be the only thing they can afford.
You also did nothing to help them in case you had a a suggestion for an inexpensive replacement iron. However, anyone can be more helpful than you, so OP, check out this well-reviewed iron: BAYKA 60W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R4SDSP8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_GomMDbYQBCJDA
Preferably 99% isopropyl. This can be purchased at some drug stores. I was able to finally find it at Wal Mart.
This kit has everything except the alcohol you will need.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W3W55T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F65SAbKX2R4WS
And just watch YouTube videos on how to do it. It's daunting but so awesome to learn.
Opinions on these three soldering irons? It's only use will be for keyboards, and I don't anticipate building them as often as we all dream, haha. But I do want one that'll do the job well without going over the $100 mark, and preferably under $80 if any of these are decent.
Hakko Dial type temperature limiting soldering iron FX600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MQD7M4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pBXMAb3DXH857
Hakko FX601-02 Adjustable Temperature Controlled Soldering Iron, 67 Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPSX3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UDXMAbYNHEAWS
UY CHAN Upgraded Original TS100 Digital OLED Programmable Pocket-size Smart Mini Outdoor Portable Soldering Iron Station Kit Embedded Interface DC5525 Acceleration Sensors STM32 Chip Fast Heat (B2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDTO6X7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CEXMAb7A2CDNW
I was fortunate enough to borrow one of these after I started the old fashioned way. It's a little pricey but it take hours and turns it into like 20 min. Good luck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGFAJWS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GEktybE8KM975
No, it would just wear it down faster, you would eventgually need to re solder the trigger contacs
​
Literally 14$ https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-Yome-Adjustable-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B07P84TTCS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2B1W3GHYXV0BP&keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1574014844&sprefix=solder%2Caps%2C301&sr=8-4
I use a cheap Chinese one off amazon . This one Its 60 watt with adjustable temp and came with a kit. Does the job and was cheap. You will also need some no clean solder flux paste and some solder. I wasn't sure if the solder the kit came with was lead free or not ( lead free isn't as good) so I bought my own solder at a hardware store. It's not the greatest set up but it's done me good so far. I am not the most experienced modder on here though. I have only built 2 boxes so far but both turned out well. Just to warn you its hella addictive. I have parts to make like 5 or 6 more boxes already. The hardest part is just getting everything to fit inside the enclosure nice and neatlty. The enclosures look roomy until your trimming down your wiring to finish up soldering. I would say start with something easier so you don't fuck up am expensive board but my first box was an intelligent PWM board and was glad I started on something a bit more technical. I'm finishing up a dual battery squonk with only a mosfet and it's a piece of cake now.
As for your DNA 200. I would have to research myself. I am a YiHi fan. I have 2 SX Mini G Classes so I have never looked into the price of boards. I will look around. So far I found a 200 for $56 on dripp3d.com
FR301 would make it easier. It's expensive though.
SS-02 may also be easier than a cheap solder sucker, it would be the same process though
Is there a big quality difference between that and something like this?
Soldering Iron Kit for Electronics, Yome 19-in-1 60w Adjustable Temperature Soldering Iron with ON/OFF Switch, Digital Multimeter, 5pcs Soldering Iron Tips, Desoldering Pump, Screwdriver, Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9RLBR1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_A2nSDb8JPDAZN
It includes pretty much everything I need and would save me a bit not having to buy everything separately.
Also, something like this might work - Bayka 60W Soldering Iron
A little cheaper than the Hakko
This one, for anyone else looking at the post
Thanks!
If you can't get it with a Q-tip, it's nothing to worry about. Grab yourself a soldering iron on Amazon, as well as some quality solder and flux. I will link some in an edit to this comment in a few minutes. Also, screw everyone else in this thread, that is damn near the perfect amount of thermal paste.
EDIT: Here are my recommendations and reasons!
​
SOLDERING IRONS:
Cheapo soldering iron:
​
https://www.amazon.com/GLE2016-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Different/dp/B01N413T8U/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1554943755&s=gateway&sr=8-5
​
This one will do you some good for the quick fix, although I can't speak to the longevity of the iron or its ability to melt some of the higher temperature solders that factories use.
​
More expensive (but WAAAAAAY BETTER) iron:
​
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1554943755&s=gateway&sr=8-6
​
This is a great soldering iron if you think electronics is something you'd like to get into. Quality replaceable tips are available, and it has a stand and comes with a cleaning sponge. I've used these, and absolutely love them. Honestly though, if this is going to be one of very few times you solder, just go for the cheap one.
​
​
​
SOLDER:
​
The cheap iron comes with some solder, and honestly you can probably get away with that for this one repair. If you decide to get the more premium iron though, here is some good solder:
​
https://www.amazon.com/Mudder-Solder-Electrical-Soldering-0-22lbs/dp/B01B61TWGY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=solder&qid=1554944194&s=gateway&sr=8-5
​
OR (I've never used this particular solder but MG chemicals is a great brand)
​
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Leaded-Solder-Diameter/dp/B004258YDE/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=mg+chemicals+no+clean&qid=1554944408&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
​
I usually stick to smaller diameter solders because you have a lot more control over how much you're putting onto a joint. This stuff is good, but really you just need to make sure it's lead solder because it melts a lot easier and is easier for beginners to work with.
​
​
​
FLUX:
​
If you want your joints to form and form well, you need some flux. At least coming from me, this is mandatory. Here's some good no-clean flux that you can use that will mostly evaporate off and shouldn't be much fuss to clean.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Paste-10-milliliters-Pneumatic-Dispenser/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mg+chemicals+no+clean&qid=1554944408&s=gateway&sr=8-3
​
​
​
TUTORIAL:
Although kind of slow, here's a pretty good soldering guide. This relates more to soldering electrical components, but most of the lessons remain the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpkkfK937mU
​
Best of luck!
Those come with a "hot knife" tip in the kit.
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-D550PK-260-Watt-Professional-Soldering/dp/B00002N7S1
Long before I started smoking cigars regularly I bought this butane torch to make vape mod coils and it has been my most reliable cigar lighter to date. Holds a ton of fuel to.
Blazer GB4001 Stingray Butane Torch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HT8U9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jU2XCb331CP2J
Im much better then I was the first time. But still bad.
I have 2.
ECG 60W E69348 with 3 different tips. Using the smallest one I have.
Then Weller soldering Gun D550PK
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BLK7D49/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This one is great for the price. Gets good and hot and has adjustable temp dial on the handle.
I've been through a few lighters, this is the best I've found yet... it's quite bulky, but I have to carry epipens anyway, and it's roughly the same size (if not a little thinner).
Shouldn't need to spend over $30 for a torch. This one has served me well for years: (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HT8U9M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I bought this kit last week
It has a lot of extras you may or may not need, plus a nifty miniature toolbox for compact storage.
It's not the best quality tool/set ever (and most of the products have chinese on them), but the old saying is buy the cheaper decent tool until you either use it till broken your you're too good for it, then upgrade.
I'm very happy with this kit. (I made something with it), so I know it actually works.
I got this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R4SDSP8/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seemed to work fine
dis one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HT8U9M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bernz-O-Matic ST2200T Micro Flame Butane Torch Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000PS9TQI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y1zNAbVVN9EY2 this is it here. It took about a week for it to break in ( the lock and for it to fire on every strike. Make sure to use their recommended butane (bernzomatic) this one has a 3 year warranty as well :)
Okay are you listening? Let's take a pause. Let's take a long pause for a minute and listen to the ceiling fan.
You are leaving some stuff out of your approach. You have 2 mics. You ask about the 2 mics. FYI I do not know anything about Rode mics, but I have seen some good reviews of them. Where I am going with this is that I do not know what medium you are recording to, but you left out pre-amp, preamplifier, what you plug your mic into. There is about a hundred different preamps and they all sound different. The preamp probably has more to do with your question than does the mic. Some preamps breathe fire. Some preamps sound dull and flat and make you want to walk in front of a bus, at least if you care about the life of the sound. My approach to dealing with this, and I do not know if this is for you, is to get my mic pre from an analog console. For example, I have what I would call acceptable-level mic-pres in the following consoles: Soundcraft Delta, Ramsa 8210A, and Crest GTx (big heavy thing), oh and also rack mount Crest RM18x or whatever the fuck it is called, original kit built in Paramus, NJ. Analog consoles are CHEEP. I paid a little over a thousand dollars for all of these consoles together- can you dig it? Although there was a little shipping involved for a couple of them. I have driven 500 miles round trip to get a console, practically a give away. There are megazoid tons of available analog consoles. Now, that is probably not for you. For one thing, you have not invested in the vehicle to haul one. You probably will not spend 14 hours searching out these consoles online to even see what I am talking about, so I am probably wasting my time talking to you. The only way I know to go it better for input is with rack-pack lunchbox component pre-amps, would probably have to spend $8k for a basic set up. Otherwise, there are some rack unit preamps that might be useful for you, for example, RME makes an 8-banger preamp unit, shit like this. But I can do something pretty close with a used console that costs me $200. Thing is, though, I know how to buy consoles and I know which is which and what they do. I am not guessing. But yes, I have put in the shoe leather.
There are a lot of ways to skin a cat and it not strictly about money. I am guessing you are plugging in you mics directly to a prosumer, what I call music store gear interface. Well, let me tell you something, I would blow out my brains with a pistol before I plugged a mic into one of those preamps, but that's just me. Even though there are college educated marketing people telling you how wonderful they are.
If you want to entertain yourself about making high quality recordings, you need to take a keen interest into wtf you are plugging the mic into. As far as the mics, one baseline would be an SM81 (condenser) for acoustic guitar and an SM7 (dynamic) for vocal. Beware of sizzly cheap ass large diaphragm condenser microphones. Your SM57 should work fine as a general purpose vocal mic or for electric gtrs, snare or toms.
>I don't feel that I can spend the 300 bucks
You may be in the wrong business. I usually start with stuff that costs $10k or even $20k (with consoles) and reverse engineer it from there. I have bought plenty of used gear for 5 cents on the dollar of new cost. There is so much renewal of gear and mountains of second hand stuff. Also, you could just get a job somewhere where you can play with the stuff and take stuff home. I have worked in 2 music stores and it served me well.
As far as paying for instruction, there is so much free information online. Go watch Dave Rat's videos. Ask questions here and other places. Recording a couple inputs to sound good is not a big deal, but you have to have real preamp(s). The cheapest way for that is with a second-hand mixer/ console. Recently I sold a Yamaha PM-1200 32x4 mixer (big thing 4' long, 100 lbs + a separate power supply), I cleaned it up, did a real nice job and then I sold it for $300. It really had good sounding mic pre's in it. The EQ was pretty useless AFAIC, but the pre's, very useful. They were phat. They were hot. I plugged a condenser mic in, and some headphones, and it was like you could hear the corners of the room. It was alive. It was also probably a $12-14,000. mixer when new. And it was damn pretty when I sold it. It was damn pretty because I cleaned it up. I took it in out of respect because I knew only I would set it up for its next voyage.
You also need good soldering equipment to be able to make up your own wire. This is basic to anyone who wants to "record." When you reformat your gear you do not buy cables, you make them. Get a Weller WP25.
Soldering iron, mic pre, mics. Hopefully you can find some talent worth recording. Now go have yourself a fucked up day. CU L'8ter.