I've been riding in the city for 10 years so here goes:

• Legally you're considered a "toy vehicle" and you have to obey all the same rules a car does. Most cars do not know this and will act as though you are somehow screwing up.
  
• You can get in trouble for riding a bike drunk (edit: not a DUI though as I previously said, law changed in '95), but I've never been pulled over.
  
• Riding on the sidewalk is illegal.
  
• You are legally entitled to an entire lane if no bike lane is present. Good luck trying that one.
  
• When cars pass you and you pass them you/they must give a 3' minimum of clear space on each side.
  
• Legally you need a white front light and a red rear reflector, but get two lights and wear a helmet. Wear a helmet.
  
• Give enough room so you can't get doored. Cars may get upset but you won't die. 1/3 of bike deaths are from doorings. If someone doors you they are in the wrong. Call the cops.
  
• Don't post on reddit about how you run stop signs or red lights even when you look both ways, are aware that you have more to lose in the situation, and make sure not to impinge on anyone's right-of-way - they will down vote you to hell.
  
• Cars turning right at the last minute and oncoming cars turning left are your biggest dangers.
  
• Only lock to things that can't move and get a decent u-lock. The small orange Kryptonite ones have always been popular and are pretty good. No lock will stop a portable angle grinder.
  
• Specialized Armadillos (not sold online) are your friend (my bias, others like Gatorskins, etc.); as are floor pumps.
  
  Cars are getting better at dealing with bikes as they become more popular, but overall the city isn't well designed for bikes. Thus, it is understandable that both bikes and car users will get frustrated with eachother from time to time. Nature of the beast for the time being.
  
  4 AM rides are great. As is drunk Lake Shore Path riding.
  

That's a great bike to start with. I started off with a bike in much worse condition.

I usually start off by giving the bike a quick wash. Just water and some dish soap to get off all dust and loose dirt. After that I dry it with an old towel.

Then comes the tear down. I put it on my stand and remove the wheels and set them aside. Then I just start cutting off all the cables (brakes and derailleur). After that, the chain gets it. I use the Park chain tool.

Then its on to removing the derailleurs, cranks, stem/bars, brakes, etc. Rear derailleurs are mostly removable with a 5mm allen wrench. Front derailleurs, too, although some of the older ones may just have a hex head. The seat post binder bolt is usually 5mm, also. Hopefully it isn't stuck. If it is, just come back and ask for methods.

Onto the stem and handlebars. To remove the stem, just loosen up the bolt up top a couple turns and tap it with a hammer and hopefully it slides out without a fight. Then remove the brake levers from the bar, then the bar from the stem.

I use this tool for the allen bolts. Park AWS 10

To remove the pedals from the cranks, I use a snap-on 15mm wrench. Remember, the pedal on the left side is reverse-threaded.

The bolt (or nut) on the crank arms is most likely 14mm and on much older bikes sometimes 15mm. I use a 14mm socket with a ratchet.

Removing the cranks from the bottom bracket spindle can be a pain sometimes. The tool to remove them is a crank puller. I use the park ccp-22. Make sure the threads are clean on the crank apply a little grease on the tool. Try to make the tool screw in the most it can and don't cross-thread. Aim to get the tool to bottom-out on the crank. Then you start spinning the handle and then you'll get a little workout on your arms.

By this point I usually just have a frame, fork, headset, and bottom bracket left. I'm tired so I'll just stop typing for now, heh.

Ask If you need any help. Someone will gladly help you here and see if you have a local bike co-op/ kitchen nearby. They could be a great asset.

You can easily do it yourself. I'd do it on a steel bike.

$100 is a lot for what they'd be doing.

With the right BB, Yes. Take the R-der as well, you can use it for parts. Looks like a square tapered BB.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCP-22-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Tool+for+removing+square+tapered+BB&qid=1562026322&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-2

This the tool to remove it

I'm a fan of Surly stuff, they make excellent frames. My fixed gear has surly hubs, and they have been holding up wonderfully. I'd say go with the Long Haul Trucker if you want a touring frame or the Cross Check if you want a cyclecross frame. The Long Haul Trucker would be the best for you (imho) since you want to carry some cargo. Be sure to spray some frame saver in the tubes before you build it up.

Is this your first bike?

You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.

Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:

• A Front Brake and Lever and Cable if you're not sure what sizes you need make a post in the weekly questions thread. Some of the bikes I suggest have one already, but if they don't GET ONE.
  
  
• A Floor Pump
  
  
• A Metric Hex Set
  
  
• A 15mm wrench if your wheels require it (most do)
  
  
• A Lockring Tool 100% essential if you plan to ride fixed
  
  
• Some Grease
  
  
• Good pedals! Clips and straps, bmx straps, or clipless can all benefit greatly from a little extra cash.
  
  
• A helmet
  
  Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.
  
  

  New Bikes
  

  
  

• An Upgraded Dolan Precursa at £Whateveryouwanttospend is just so customizable and awesome and the pricing is great and really everyone should get this if they can. I'd highly suggest opting for the front brake, miche pistard clincher wheelset (tubular if you're riding track ONLY), and sugino75 crankset options. You can even get direct drives for only £109 extra ( a $500 crankset whaaaat) so that's cool. If you really want to dive headfirst you can get clipless pedals too, but if you don't know what those are definitely make a post in the weekly questions thread.
  
  
• The Specialized Langster at $650 retail is a super solid street and track bike. They go on sale sometimes for less and for $600 or less it's really a no brainer.
  
  
• The Wabi Classic at $750 has been my go to recommendation for a long time. It's made of super high quality steel has excellent customization options, and is all around awesome. The biggest downside is the super relaxed geo. If you want something that rides more like an average road bike check out the Special or Lightning
  
  
• The PoloandBike Williamsburg at £760 is a great option for European riders. The name brand finishing kit and artchetype rims give it that custom bike feel for a good value complete bike. If you swap out the front tire and maybe upgrade the crank this bike can be truly superb.
  
  
• The All-City Big Block at $950 is easily the best looking bike on this list imo, but that aside it's a super ultra double awesome track bike. Really well rounded and could easily be the last fixed gear you buy. One thing to watch out for is the long top tubes that all city loves so much so take a close look at that geo chart.
  
  

  Used Bikes
  

  
  Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.
  
  
  
  
  
  

The set-up:
Front brake, lever, + cable.

Hey OP. Friendly neighborhood lockpicker here. I pick locks as a hobby and keep up with the security of a lot of the locks that are released. I also recently got a ninebot and therefore wanted a U-lock for it as well. The kryptonite lock you suggested here is actually a good one. I'd avoid the master lock cuffs posted above, master locks are notoriously shit and those cuffs are actually one of the better ones from them, but they're still shit. And I'd never get the last one you posted, I've never even heard of it and you'd likely be paying $20 to get your scooter stolen. As a general rule of thumb, if you care about something, you should care about spending the money for a good lock for it. That being said, here's the lock I decided on for my scooter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZT8KZ1/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_laC3Db2XXBFF7. I'd suggest that one or one of the other similar ones in that line. The kryptonite one you posted is likely still good, but I know that kryptonite used plastic covers over the lock body of some of their bike locks that could be destroyed with a heat gun or blow torch to easily open the lock. The one I suggested is all metal. Good luck with your lock needs.

Bike Lights for $9: https://www.amazon.com/BV-Bicycle-Headlight-Taillight-Quick-Release/dp/B00A6TBITM/ref=sr_1_4?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1503144942&sr=1-4&keywords=bike+lights

Helmet $25: https://www.amazon.com/Bell-Adult-Orange-Titanium-Helmet/dp/B00TS3FZFU/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1503144980&sr=1-4&keywords=bell+bike+helmet

I ride 3 miles roundtrip rather than 7 usually on a steel beast. If you can find a lighter frame and don't carry as much it should be fairly easy. Note, there is an evil 1% grade from Grant to like Elm and the wind tends to blow in that direction.

If you want a more secure chain/lock, check out the Kryptonite 14mm x 39" New York Fahgettaboudit Chain and New York Disc Lock. That thing is huge and really really tough, it would take them a very long time or a ridiculous amount of force to get through it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JPS200/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687782&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001KQ5ZRG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=13CET9G6KF0X9HZBYFYA

> I’m getting ready to launch a rear bike rack pannier

That's just called a rear bike rack. A pannier is the bag that goes onto a bike rack (more or less).

> Here's a picture of it

So you're selling the Ibera Bike Rack?

The general rule is to not be frugal with your bike lock.

I think a $20 lock would be okay, since someone is more likely to steal a bike without any locks than one that has a lock.

But, consider that a $20 lock will be much easier to break than other locks. Abus and Kryptonite are great locks. I know that in the US, Kryptonite will reimburse you if the lock is broken and your bike is stolen - might be the same in Canada but idk.

Along with a lock, get a bike cable (the Kryptonite I linked below is great).

Kryptonite 720018210610 KryptoFlex 3/8-Inch x 7-Feet 1007 Double Loop Security Cable https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NOO3ZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jKFJDb9W8F2AD

Edit: Abus not Arbus

The image is directly copied from an existing Rack on Amazon: <https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002T5H8MW/>

Don't fall for this scammer.

I see from your other posts that you're already using MFP. Good choice!

Given your exercise choices, I would go with the treadmill, because my ass tends to hate bike seats. But I think I might recommend getting an actual bike and an indoor bike stand.

http://www.amazon.com/Indoor-Trainer-Exercise-Stand-Orange/dp/B004E1SVOI

That way you have an indoor/outdoor thing going.

M52 5'11½"^/182cm SW:298lb^/135kg CW/GW:Maintain ~186lb^/85kg [recap] with MyFitnessPal+Walking/Hiking+TOPS

I also bike. Usually outside. I've been sitting on the idea of adding an indoor bike stand to the home set-up, but haven't yet heard of anyone who actually likes and uses this kind of equipment.

Buy a cycle trainer

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0094KIVQW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1462259827&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=indoor+cycle+trainer&dpPl=1&dpID=417sPpqt%2BkL&ref=plSrch

I think the biggest bang for the buck pedals are the Wellgo MG-1s. 35 dollars here in America.

http://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-MG-1-Magnesium-Platform-16-Inch/dp/B00E7UZ5OK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427586273&sr=8-1&keywords=Wellgo+MG-1

Noticeable stretch. How are you computing this "noticeable" stretch? Are you using a chainwear tool?

Dusty conditions = dry lube. Dry as possible. I recommend Rock & Roll Extreme.

Even with cleaning and lubrication you will replace the chain. And yes, worn chains (those past 75%) will start to wear the cassette, and then the chainrings once the chain goes past 100%. I wouldn't be concerned with derailer cogs.

Hey there, fellow SF bike commuter.

I use this for my rear (road bike) wheel. Cheap, stays in place, keeps the rain off. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X61N2A/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

I don't use one for my front wheel - the downtube does most of the work, and my feet take the rest. I ride flat pedals, and purchased FiveTen Freerider Element XVI (weather-resistant) shoes. As long as you tie the laces tight, they work pretty well for anything short of a downpour.

I've got a pretty good setup at work - a fan under my desk to help dry stuff out between rides, and I bring an extra set of commute clothes if it's really pouring.

I highly recommend a rack + panniers. I just switched from using a backpack to a rack + panniers on my commute and it's MUCH nicer.

I got these:
https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Touring-IB-RA4-Frame-mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473272148&sr=8-1&keywords=bike+rack+and+panniers

and
https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-IB-BA8-Bike-Panniers/dp/B0044U8W3E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473272148&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+rack+and+panniers

For less than $100 bucks you'll be much more comfortable.

My son uses this pannier to carry his trumpet case vertically. Sometimes we put a bungee cord around the case at the top of the rack to keep the case from swaying.

I found that the rack top is too narrow to hold the trumpet case sideway. He has this rack with separate top and side rails, so he can still mount to the rack top as the pannier is mounted on the lower side rail.

Edit: photo of the setup.

Got the Hellcats for $65 shipped on the Clearance/closeout section of the 5.10 website. $35 shipped for the pedals off of Amazon.

Pedals

Shimano PD-M530 Mountain Pedals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052XXW32/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OR-xzb0CYX0M6

Shoes (Hellcats)

http://www.fiveten.com/us/closeouts/bike

For example: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CC-3-2-Chain-Checker/dp/B000BR3LHQ/. A $10 chain measuring tool like this could save you much more money in drivetrain components in the future.

I would recommend a bag like this for medium to long rides. It's enough room for a tube, multi tool, wallet, phone, snack etc. They make different sizes too if you want something smaller or larger.

Get it professionally fit, or at least research how to fit yourself.

That spacer tower is probably fairly comfortable on your lower back right now. With improved fitness, consider flipping the stem and reducing the spacers to get a more aggressive stance. After you find a good fit with reduced spacers, have your local bike shop trim the steer tube (or do it yourself). A spacer tower above the stem is a sternum cracker if left unchecked.

After 100 miles or so, get the cables checked. With a new bike and brand new cables, the cables are bound to stretch over time, especially when brand new. You'll need a tune up to keep everything working properly.

If the saddle doesn't work out and becomes uncomfortable after 10-20 mile ride, don't blame the bicycle. Blame the saddle. Many introductory level bikes really skimp on the saddle. Get a shop to help you find one that conforms well to your undercarriage.

Routinely check tire pressure. About every other day the tires will likely need to be refilled, if not every day. To make this easier, there is no good reason to keep the plastic caps or the retaining nut on the tube valves. Those are used for packaging of the tube. Inspect the tire for wear.

If you live in an area with any notable crime, that U-lock alone will not be enough security for commuting. Consider getting locking skewers (though they make tube/tire changes more difficult), an additional U-lock, or a chain or cable lock. The point here is for redundancy. At the very least, get a cable loop so that you can lock your wheels. The U-lock should be used on the seat tube of the frame so that it can lock both the frame and the rear wheel. The loop is for some protection of the front wheel.

These work great: http://www.amazon.com/X-Tra-Rear-Bicycle-Fender-wheels/dp/B000X61N2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458140255&sr=8-1&keywords=sks+fender

Not small enough to fit in a backpack (it'll stick out some) but very easy to install/remove and does a great job catching rear-wheel spray. Clamps to the seat post and can easily be adjusted to fit around a saddlebag/light.

I did something similar a few years back fixing up an old Schwinn Caliente. The first thing you want to do is clean up the frame thoroughly. Take as many parts off the bike as you're comfortable with. Definitely the wheels, chain, seat, rack, bottle cage. This will help you get into some of the nooks that are easy to overlook when cleaning. If you're going to replace cables and housing, that helps with this as well.

After you've stripped the frame down as far as you're comfortable and cleaned it thoroughly, you should scrape off as much of the rust as you can without further jacking up the paint job, and then resealing with a clear coat. When I did this, I found a black paint pen at an auto parts store that had a scraper for the rust. It worked reasonably well. Then, I recommend spraying Framesaver inside the frame to help slow down any additional rust formation.

If nothing else though, the most important stuff is to make sure your tires, tubes, chain, and brake pads are in good shape.

In terms of parts upgrades, the wheels look older, which means they're heavy. That would probably be the most expensive upgrade, but also the most beneficial. Watch out though, on older bikes, the front and rear forks may not be wide enough for most modern wheels. In that case you need to either look for specialty wheels designed to fit older bikes (I've never actually seen these, but I'm sure someone, somewhere makes them) or cold set the frame.

The seat also looks cheap, but I'd ride on it a bit first to see if it's comfortable. And think about if you like that handlebar setup. Those bars almost certainly aren't original to that bike, and you could switch to drop bars, bullhorns, etc. if you wanted to.

Get comprehensive insurance. There is not a lock that will stop anyone determined.

There are large chains available... I believe one is called fuhgettaboutit? Use that on something equally unmoving plus an alarmed disk lock.

Edit: Chain

The big thing about converting to drops is that they can add a lot of reach to your riding position. The second part of this guide can give you a good rough idea of whether you might need significantly more or less reach than you currently have, which you can adjust a little bit with different stems.

http://www.wikihow.com/Size-a-Road-Bike

Ultimately it's generally a lot of trial and error though. And it seems your bars are already 31.8mm so you might actually be able to use the same stem. At least for now.

I have absolutely no idea how much those origin8 parts would cost you. But you can probably get the bars themselves for less than $40, eg:

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1033658_-1_400213__400213

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1184245_-1_400213__400213

The main thing is the width, which largely depends on what sort of bike sizing you have and how big you yourself are, but since you're coming from super wide flats you could probably stick to 44cm regardless. The other difference is shape, which is largely personal preference. Doesn't help you much, but depending on what you want to use the bike for a shorter drop might be more comfortable. And at some point you just have to make the call on what looks most comfortable to you.

Your disc brakes are linear pull, which means it probably wouldn't be a good idea to use normal road levers with them. Tektro do a set of linear pull road levers which would probably be the simplest solution:

http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=10&sortname=Lever&sort=1&fid=3

Pretty cheap too. Shifting is a little more awkward, as your thumb shifter will probably have a diameter of 22.2mm and modern road bars are generally 23.8mm. But that shifting position itself is generally pretty awkward, yes. Your hand has to move quite the distance from the hoods or the drops to get there, around the bars themselves and often requiring you to change position. Short of using a road lever with a cable pull adjuster or something, which can get quite complicated and isn't generally the best, the best option is probably a bar end shifter. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/SUNRACE-SHIFTER-HB-BAREND-SLR96/dp/B00JVK5ZLY/

So all in all that'd be around $40 bars, $25 for the levers, $35 for the shifter, $10-15 for some bar tape and maybe $15 for a new set of cables;

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Cable-Housing-Universal/dp/B0050LUBZ8/

Basically something like that plus a new bit of gear cable outer, to cover the distance from the shifter to the first boss on the frame. Probably cheapest and simplest just to get something like that from an LBS. But all in all that'd be around $125-130, if you're lucky and it's comfortable as is. If you need a stem with a different length or angle, probably closer to $150. If you do the work yourself. But for that you could end up with quite a nice gravel/adventure type bike which could turn its hand to endurance road riding, cross riding or touring/commuting quite nicely.

Alternatively you could just get some bar ends, which can help even if your arms are quite spread out. But if you want to get into longer distance riding, you might feel the need to upgrade again before long. Bullhorns can be nice, but often have a lot of the same problems with different diameters, and you still can't brake from that position unless you had TT style levers which I don't think you can get in linear pull. And they'd still need bar tape and such. You can do the research yourself, I just think it'd be a large portion of the investment in an attempt to mimic the riding position of a road bike anyway.

I've had the bike for a few weeks now and use it almost entirely for commuting. Here's what I've added since I got the bike:

• GoPro Hero3 Black
  
  
• NiteRider Lumina Micro 350 front and rear
  
  
• Nite Ize HandleBand
  
  
• Tektro CR720 Canti Brakes
  
  
• Ibera PakRak Bicycle Touring Carrier Plus+
  
  
• Avenir Excursion Rack-Top Bag
  
  
• SKS P45 Black Chromoplastic Longboard
  
  
• SRAM Supercork Bicycle Bar Tape (Black)
  
  
• Shimano Brake Cable and Housing Set
  
  
• Shimano Road Shift Cable and Housing Set
  
  The stock brakes weren't doing enough to stop me so I swapped them out for some Tektro CR720s. I dropped the yoke as far as I could to give myself as much leverage as possible. Braking is much better now and more reliable than the original set ever was.
  
  I added a rack and trunk bag that's big enough to hold my food and clothes for the day. The only modification I had to make here was filing away some metal from rack mounting leg. It was colliding with frame near the dropout and not allowing the leg to sit close enough to the braze on.
  
  Some of the original cable housings that came with the bike had some gouges in them so Nashbar sent me a new replacement cable set. I swapped out all the brake/shift cables and replaced the bar tape with some SRAM cork tape. The original cables from Nashbar were also a bit too long and were causing excessive friction.
  
  I added some SKS fenders per the recommendations of users on this sub. They were a little finicky to install but I got them on in the end. This particular frame doesn't have bolt holes in either of the two rear bridges so I had to resort to the classic zip tie approach.
  
  As far as the bike goes, it's been performing flawlessly so far. It weighs close to 30 lbs now so it's not the lightest thing in the world. However, the steel frame and the large tires really help smooth out the road quite a bit. The saddle is still the most uncomfortable part of the bike, but I'm hoping to swap it out sometime in the near future. Shifting is still very smooth and the 4 trim positions on the 105 front derailleur is a great feature.
  
  If you're considering getting a bike from Nashbar, I'd definitely recommend them. Their customer service was fantastic and everything they shipped usually got to me door in 2-3 days (even the bike!).

This (brakes) plus this (shifts) comes out under $20.

I find it hard to imagine them any cheaper. A complete set of the black-coated inners costs pretty close to that at most LBSs.

Here are some deals I've seen and when they come up or shut down. (All times are Pacific)


USB Rechargable Bike Tail Light on sale at 3:45

Foam Rollers go on sale at 4

Kryptonite 18mm New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock, Black Goes on sale at 3

Revolights bicycle lighting system Midnight

Womens Pearl Izumi Shorts

Pearl Izumi Jerseys 4:00

Different pearl izumi bibs

Pearl Izumi shorts 5:45

Pearl Izumi bibs as shown below 4:45

Canari womens shorts

Brooks saddles bicycle bar tap 2:45

Yakima DoubleDown 4-Bike Hitch Mount Rack 4:45

Very compact sleeping bag 4:30

Compact first aid kit 3:00

Kryptonite Evolution Mini-5 Bicycle Ulock 3:35

headlamp 5:30

Polar Heart Rate Monitor 3:30

LED Strobe Lights 2:30

Youphoria Sport Towel ends at 3:15ish



Sram Bar Tape ends at 2:50
Kryptonite NY Standard on sale 6:50

Bike thieves are the worst. I'm sorry, it's shitty.

Do yourself a favor and invest $40-50 in a kryptonite bike lock... check this one out on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-2079-Evolution-Bicycle-KryptoFlex/dp/B06XZT8KZ1/ref=sr_1_4?crid=4P5D9D1G4LYJ&keywords=kryptonite+bike+lock&qid=1566405464&s=gateway&sprefix=kryptonite%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-4

Lots of people don't know but Kryptonite offers a program that if you register your bike with them after buying a lock, they guarantee it's safety. And by that I mean they will offer a value $$ if your bike gets stolen and you can produce the cut lock back to them.

Worth looking into, don't trust purely cable locks especially a hardware store brand. You really get what you pay for.

Edit: Also, if you register your keys online and somehow lose both of the ones you get, they can send you new keys to get your bike back :)

Even though U-locks are a nuisance, I'd stay with it. They're generally the most secure type of lock and if you get it through your frame and rear wheel, that's two sections of your bike you don't need to worry about. I always put my U-lock through my belt so when I'm on the bike, I don't notice it. I've got this lock and it's tiny. It came with a frame mount as well.

I have the previous version of this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZT8KZ1/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

Well they arent twenty... but you can get them for around 30 usually. I ride them all the time and they are light and grippy/ mine have taken a serious beating and still kick ass. [Wellgo MG1s] (http://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-MG-1-Magnesium-Platform-16-Inch/dp/B00E7UZ5OK)

Of course! It's this one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094KIVQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4eKkDbZNFG44T

I got this one which of course has gone down in price by like $10 since I ordered it two days ago.

If you buy "cheap", chances are that you're either buying something that's built to be a temporary toy or buying stolen (thus increasing demand for stolen bikes). What you need to do is ask, "Where can I get the cheapest price for an unstolen bike that will last me four years?"

The ASUCD Bike Barn's Aggie Bike Buy option is an incredibly good deal that few bike shops can match. https://asucd-bikebuy.ucdavis.edu/product-category/bikes/ The guy who runs the shop (Robert) is ultra-sensitive about the cost of bikes but since he and his team has to fix the bikes, he's always looking for the best value. An 8-speed Biria ($475) will be enough bike for most riders. Coupled with their 4-year unlimited labor plan ($175), you will have a bike that will work well for 4 years. (Just make sure to put the plan to use! If something doesn't feel or sound right, take your bike in for a check-up!)

But you also have to keep that bike secure, so you NEED to purchase at LEAST one great lock and at LEAST an supplemental cable. My favorite setup is the Kryptonite Evo4 standard size U-lock and cable. https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-2079-Evolution-Bicycle-KryptoFlex/dp/B06XZT8KZ1/ It comes with an anti-theft guarantee of $1,500 (as long as you register the lock, use it correctly, and file a police report if the bike is stolen)!

That's probably more money than you want to spend, right? $475+$175+$60 = $710 (plus tax). But that will get you:

A non-stolen bike you want to ride, will be rideable for 4+ years, and that will likely not be stolen (if you actually use the lock correctly). If you purchase a "cheap bike" (Walmart, Target, Costco, Big5, etc.), you'd be lucky if it lasts the year. And if your bike doesn't work, then you've just wasted your money.

Do you have a wedge pack to carry your multi-tool and spare tubes in?

You can find good ones at places like Dicks Sporting Goods or REI a little cheaper than at a bike shop.

Also, I generally prefer a water bottle in a water bottle cage for any ride under 2 hours to a hydration pack. If I'm out on an all day trip I'll strap on the hydration pack, but I've found I really hate wearing it.

I used to live at 2nd and Wharton and would ride my bike to Federal/Elsworth and lock my bike up on the North East corner of Broad and Federal on really snowy days. Right here to be exact. I would lock my back wheel and frame to the staple rack w/ a U-Lock and a shitty cable lock between the front tire and the U-Lock. In the 20 or so times I locked it there the only thing that was stolen was one of these plastic mud guards, because I forgot to take it with me.

Replaced that mud guard with mounted ones and never had a problem. I work from home now, so not really an issue.

Good job.

Now get some brakes!

https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-857AL-Linear-Pull-Brake/dp/B0196UXWYU/

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Universal-Standard-Brake-Cable/dp/B0050LUBZ8/

Cheap!

(for cutting brake cable.. dremel cut off wheel in a ventalated area and a nail or something like that for clearing out the hole. for cutting the actual wire wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end and it'll prevent fraying.)

:D

edit:

Once you get some miles on it let us know what sort of range and performance you are getting. Looks like a fun ride.

Toe-in your brakes, and use dual-compound brake pads like these



https://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/brake-squeal.html

You'll probably need:

• Lockring wrench
  
• Crank remover
  
• Bottom Bracket Remover
  
  • However bottom bracket tool depends on the type of BB. I linked a Shimano sealed cartridge.
    
• Chain tool because if you change cog/chainring, you will have to add/remove links to your chain
  
  Park Tools is basically the Canon/Nikon of bike tools; always quality parts and they won't break down on you.

Last week, I bought the XT Trail PD-M785, which is about half the price ($80 vs $161) of the XTR and only like 10 grams heavier (398 vs 408) and I absolutely adore them. I've been riding clipless for a couple years now and I've used Time's and Crank Brothers mostly and these Shimano's are in a whole different league.

The platform is big enough to give you something to stand on if you want to clip out going down some techy stuff or if you need to do an uphill start. The tension adjust is also a really nice feature so that you can leave them loose when you're just starting out and then tighten the engagement as needed. Those pedals and my dropping seatpost are absolutely the best upgrades I've done to my bike recently.

EDIT: If you're looking for something even more reasonably priced, there are the Shimano PD-M530, which is the same style of pedal, just $40. I'm looking into a pair of these for my girlfriend right now. I haven't ridden them personally, but people say really good things about them.

The wiki has a great section on shoes n pedals.

Swapping the pedals out is pretty easy. Just be careful to not cross thread. The right and left pedals screw in opposite.

There are a couple of dual clip options in the wiki that have look on one side and spd on the other.

I personally use these and love them.
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-149319-PD-M530-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B0052XXW32

You don't really say where you are and what type of riding you'll be doing but here's my $0.02 on what I've done and would recommend to others.


Clipless Pedals + Shoes --> These are the newer version to what I use on my roadie, but if you want the versatility of the dual clipless or the single+flat on the other side, you can do that. Or you can go with full-road-cleated pedals, of course. For the shoes, try some out at a store, the internet hasn't replaced this step.

Saddle bag -- I err.. duct taped a tube to my seatpost and carry the rest of my crap in my jersey pockets.

Water bottle -- If you ride in extreme weather, consider an insulated bottle, it's sooo nice to fill with iced water and have cool water to dring on 100F+ days

Pump -- I have one that came with a bracket to bolt under the water cages, maybe look for one like it (can't remember the brand of mine)

??? (I have no idea what else I will need) -- you'll need/want:

• a multitool to adjust or fix anything that can come up. I have the park multitool and I don't really recommend it as there's probably better tools out there for road bike use, just make sure that it has a chain tool included.
  
• Tire levers, if they aren't included somehow in the multitool. I always carry one extra so I can have 3 leverage points if I get a flat.
  
• With a new bike you might need bottle cages.
  
• Get some chain lube if you don't have any.
  
• Depending on chain brand, a power link or quick link
  
• For patch kits, the park one is pretty much OK but do stay away from the self-adhering ones, they're garbage!

I would look at getting a chain checker to see, and for cabling I would reset the cable at the derailer and adjust it if it really is stretched.

1500 miles seems low, not unheard of just low. Maybe take it to another shop for a second opinion or learn to do the work yourself. Save money and gain skill in the long run.

Just Riding Along.

chain checker will check for pin wear (sometimes called chain stretch. It's one dynamic of wear that can be measure. Lateral slop can't be measured as it were but can affect shifting and performance.

You can spin chain rings and cogs to see if they're straight.

Edit: Take two with some input thanks to u/LukeWarmCage for teaching me some Reddit knowledge. We all learning lessons today...

My same post from before:

I was gonna suggest something similar. I've always been mechanically inclined, taking apart things like RC cars as a kid to see how they worked. But I got into road biking with zero experience working on bikes. I now have 6 bikes and do 90% of the maintenance on all of them myself. I learned most things from books and Youtube, when I would get stuck I'd take a bike to my LBS and make sure to ask them what I was doing wrong. Usually they are happy to offer advice and direct me toward a tool or technique I was missing. The only thing now that I'm not comfortable working on myself still are things involving bearings, especially if they are press fit. I don't have the tools to work on them and don't want to damage something trying to go without. I've been slowly converting my bikes from hubs with open bearings to cartridge bearings because I hate repacking hubs, and cartridge bearings last long enough that I don't mind taking a wheel to a shop for new bearings when needed.

u/dinkinflickin (great name BTW) While by now I have a pretty sizable selection of bike tools and a stand, you can do a lot of the stuff your bike needs regularly with really basic tools: a set of Allen wrenches, screwdrivers and maybe an adjustable wrench. Do invest a couple bucks in those plastic tire levers for fixing flats and get a chain gauge, which is a helpful little tool that tells you when you should think about replacing your bike chain. A worn out bike chain will still work fine for a while, but it is increasing the wear on your gears and they are more expensive to replace.

Things like your shifters and brakes are most likely to need occasional fine tuning. These are also both things that many new cyclists can mess up because they require some feel to get right. I've seen a lot of cyclists who notice their shifters aren't shifting smoothly and they adjust the wrong thing and make the problem worse. Here's GCN's video on indexing a rear shifter. "Indexing" is the term for getting the shifter to be properly lined up with the rear gears. This process is not easy as it takes some trial and error to learn at first, having someone show you how it's done is really helpful. Lastly since your bike is new you are unlikely to have to replace any components for a while, but as cables break in you may need to fine tune shifters. Chains, brake pads, and tires all have a finite lifespan and one of them is likely to be the first thing you replace in the first year or two.

The best thing you can do now IMO is leaning to clean and properly lubricated your bike. The grease and oils on your bike collect dirt and other contaminants and eventually turn into a gritty paste that starts doing more harm than good to the components. Keeping the bike clean and lubricated will reduce wear and protect your bike from corrosion. GCN also has a bunch of videos about cleaning and oiling bikes. Too much oil can be just as bad as too little because it picks up dirt. A chain cleaner like this one makes cleaning your chain much easier as you don't have to remove it from the bike.

I use this (the medium one) for my stuff. Easily carries a flat repair kit, wrench, small pump, multitool, handkercheif, $20, and my front light when it's not on my bike. Plus, my rear light clips onto that little loop on the front.

It was locked in the staircase (inside of the main door) with this. The lock is also missing so I have no way of knowing if it was picked or cut (I presume picked). I also had this as an extension but that is still intact and left there. It was stolen between 22:00 on Thursday 22/08 and 09:20 the next morning.

It was only the second time the bike was locked there and it was only a few times that I came in/out of the building with it (therefore not very seen in the street). Also, there was no evidence of breaking-in on the main door. These make me think it may be an inside job.

And the really disappointing bit: I used to be pessimistic and not celebrate my birthdays very much. But things have become better in my life and I thought it's time to do a proper birthday with presents, party etc. I've worked overtime to afford it and on the day of the birthday I discovered it's stollen.

I have SKS fenders for my MTB and Planet Bike ones for my commuter. They're both absolutely necessary here in Washington. Fenders are the first thing I recommend to people I work with who ask me about commuting. They go a long way to improve the quality of your ride. Congratulations on your first commute.

You need this. Register your bike with them and they will replace it up to $1500 if it's stolen.

You need a better lock, buy a ulock something like this. Might seem a bit expensive now, but it's much better then coming back to a missing bike.

This one is the minimum kryptonite I recommend to people in NYC. Even that I think is a little weak if you're going to be locking up all day during work/school or whatever. For all day or overnight, I usually recommend the Krypto Evolution Mini and a wheel locking system like Pinheads.

Not to be alarmist, but do remember how to lock up your bike. here are two pages you really should read (1|2) . Also, get a good U-Lock and flex lock like this. One of my students just had their new bike stolen, they had a simple combo-lock.

With that out of the way, there are some nice places to ride. As you are in AP, look at the North Channel trail, its a nice calm ride up through the Skokie Sculpture Park up to Evanston. The North Branch trail can be a little more difficult to ride to (Devon & Central), but is a really nice ride up to the Botanic Gardens. If you want a little more distance, you can combine the above with the Greenbay Trail, going up to Kenosha.

Riding to the loop, I usually take the Lakefront trail, but when I ride on streets, I prefer Elston over Milwaukee. In general, Chicago drivers are aware of riders, sticking to the streets marked as designated routes in google's bike overlay tend to be safe.

Steel is more likely to die from rust/corrosion. Most people don't properly apply 'frame saver' to the inside of their steel frames.

http://www.amazon.com/Weigles-Bicycle-Frame-Saver-Inhibitor/dp/B0012GO58Y

Also, a European bottom bracket in a steel frame should be serviced annually to prevent seizing.

I'm in Chicago and I treat my steel frame with JP Weigle's FrameSaver. It's way better than WD40. Just Google it.

Other than that, I tend to just wipe down my bike as often as possible and I never leave it outdoors overnight. I tend to not ride as often in the winter, honestly. It gets pretty damn cold here.

That bike's closer to 20 years old, maybe more. Used in wet, salty conditions, a steel frame can really suffer. This one does not look bad. Steel MTBs are tough.

If I were you, I'd pull the seatpost and bottom bracket out of the bike and spray some FrameSaver into the exposed tubes.

It's a heavy, sticky oil sprayed inside steel frames to prevent rust. Something like this.

I hear kool stops are pretty awesome. I know Comrades sells them and Amazon has them listed for roughly the same cost as those first ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

If you're looking for better brakes but can't go with discs, there's large contact patch soft compound ones you can get.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KJD7XL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These have a 25% larger contact patch, and they're softer than most stock brakes. They'll grip the rim much harder.

These are also pretty good albiet more expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_9?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1536557364

BTW you only need these for the front, because when the front gets more stopping power, its super easy to lock up the rear wheel.

this is my thought process

• go cheap, go used. you might not like it. might find one you LOVE a few months later. might decide you like hybrids more.
  
  
• expect $100 or more in after bike purchases. GOOD lights (at least $30 for each). so many people go cheap on lights. its way cheaper to get a $50 light than a trip to the ER cause you didnt see that crack, hole, bottle or someone driving/riding didnt see you. also, helmet. and might i recommend gloves! they really help me. extra padding, super gripy even when you sweat. also, if u go used might need a new tire or two. maybe $50 ish on a tune up at the local bike shop. practically a requirement in some peoples opinions.
  
  
• if you're commuting you'll need some kind of storage system. many people love panniers (side bags). i prefer backpacks.
  
  
• u lock. get one. if you suddenly find a bunch of money get this.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-999485-Black-Fahgettaboudit-Chain/dp/B001JPS200

I've got this behemoth and sure it's big and heavy, but I just wrap it around my waist when I'm on the bike. I leave my bike at a train station for as much as 12 hours, so I need something that will make thieves move to the next bike.

My insurance is called the Kryptonite Fahgettaboutit

It definitely insures me it won't get stolen :D

You may already know this, but thought I would mention it anyway, since you're here asking for advice. If you're upgrading from a square tapered BB and don't already have this tool, don't forget to pick-up a crank puller.

I don’t think you need anything special.

I usually ride Kenda K838s until it gets really bad and icy. They are a heavy tire, but super cheap and they feel great. I did a 16 mile ride through snow/ice/slush yesterday and never felt out of control.

That's definitely a steal. Have heard good things about these Tubus racks.

However, anyone have experience with an Ibera PakRak:

http://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Touring-IB-RA4-Frame-mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458744660&sr=8-4&keywords=tubus+rack

Looks like a good deal. I'm looking for a rear rack that can accept panniers.

Right now, I have this Topeak Explorer rack on my Schwinn Varsity:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIE3WI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

My bike is a commuter but I am planning on taking it on some short weekend / week-long tours this summer, hopefully going for a month long tour at the tail end of summer.

Thanks for any insight, everyone! Cheers!

P-clamps are a great solution for attaching a rack when you don't have eyelets.

Here's an excellent article (with helpful photos) on how to install a rack with p-clamps: http://www.bikecommuters.com/2008/07/19/p-clamps-are-your-friends/

Here's a good breakdown and Nitto branded p-clamp from Rivendell Bikes: https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-band-clamps-pair?variant=23336804161

Attach at the upper eyelets and then use 2 p-clamps (one on each side) to attach the lower points of the rack. Once you have your p-clamps, then any rear rack will do depending on your needs - I use the non-disc version of this (link to the disc brake version): https://smile.amazon.com/Ibera-Bike-Rack-Frame-Mounted-Adjustable/dp/B002T5H8MW?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 which is great and affordable (under $30).

I got a cheap mag trainer from amazon last November. It worked fine for the winter. Lost like 50lbs. This year I found a cheap fluid trainer on craigslistp; gave the old one to my GF. I'd recommend getting a spare rear wheel for the trainer so you can quickly swap it out for weekends/surprisingly nice fall days. Get specific trainer tires too, reduces the noise and the trainer has a tendency to eat regular road tires.

But otherwise I parked my bike in front of my TV last winter and road for an hour or two each day. Not nearly as fun as in the wild, but Netflix/Video Games/TV helped. Dropped 50ish lbs and proceeded to put in +2000 miles this summer.

In southern WI there are just those weeks where it is unsafe. Any time the actual temperature for the day is below 0 I opt to ride in doors and drive to work.

Above 0 having a good pair of winter biking shoes and full equipment makes it completely doable, though you will be slower.

The biggest issue most people face is fogging glasses. I picked up some anti fog construction glasses that work well, though I bought multiple pairs because after 10-15 rides and constantly wiping them the anti-fog is basically gone.

Some people have had luck with Mountain Climbing glasses, but I just can't justify $200-$300 on a pair of glasses that may work.

OP, I don't suggest biking in everything but if it is a nice 20-30 degree day get some gear and enjoy the outdoors.

Indoor trainer I bought - Trainer

Anti fog glasses - Glasses

Bike Shoes - Shoes

What kind of lights are you using?

For the front, you may want to check out the Design Shine Lights ( http://www.DesignShineLighting.com ) which are quite bright, and should be available soon. Or check out the Planet Bike 2w headlight which blinks:

http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Blaze-2Watt-Headlight/dp/B0015R1NE4/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_img_b

I am actually using the Nu Flare LED flashlight and a handlebar flashlight mount because it's a lot brighter than the Planet Bike headlight, but it doesn't blink so that may not work for you ...

http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Flare-77R92L-Ultrabright-Aluminum-Flashlight/dp/B001LYYO10/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1318951039&sr=8-3

http://www.amazon.com/Flashlight-Mount-for-Bike-Handlebar/dp/B004OADU22/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1319730599&sr=1-1-catcorr

NOTE: This mount is okay for my use, you may not like it it you have to remove your lights.

For the rear, I love my Planet Bike Turbo Superflash:

http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Superflash-Turbo-Light/dp/B004U5PV5A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1318366148&sr=8-1

I emailed Planet Bike and asked them to make a White and Yellow Turbo flash, which I think would take care of front-mount for me.

Finally, you may want to get a little air horn for your bike. Someone did a write here on Reddit a few weeks ago. This is the horn:

http://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-1-4oz-50074011-Image-Reference/dp/B000XQ5B1Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I1VY5NBV2BPVP6&colid=2ANXR60WOJLC

This is the write-up and image.

http://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/lf42p/i_installed_a_compressed_air_horn_this_weekend/

http://i.imgur.com/X6vLI.jpg

Those lights, while they look cool, do a TERRIBLE job of making you visible. And that's the whole point of a light in the first place. And since the light-portion is so small all it takes is a few flecks of mud and they're all but invisible.

Want a good light, go for something like the PlanetBike SuperFlash.

This is probably the best tail light you can get. its a full watt and the brightest you can get for 30 bucks. Almost everyone I know rides with these.

http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Blinky-Superflash-Turbo/dp/B004U5PV5A/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1374801374&sr=1-1&keywords=superflash+turbo

These work great on my Astro branded one, 2 of them for $12.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050LUBZ8/

I recently picked up some SPD pedals (these specifically) and absolutely love them. Two things to make sure of from my experience:

1. Make sure you get shoes that fit you perfectly. It took me a few different types of shoes and a few sizes to find the ones that work well for me.
   
   
2. PRACTICE CLIPPING AND UNCLIPPING BEFORE YOU GO RIDING! It'll only take a few embarassing tip overs to figure out what you're doing, but you can save those by spending 10-15 minutes holding on to a fence post or something repeatedly clipping in and out.
   
   I love them, and I find that I'm more willing to take on sketchier terrain. Plus I feel like I could jump over a house now. So there's that.

I had shimano on both of my bikes. That's as far as I can go for recommending something. They both lasted without issue, and the shoes lasted thousands of miles as well. Shimano makes good stuff. I wouldn't spend more than like 50-60 bucks. Unless you're going for super light weight on a road bike.

[these are what I had on my mountain bike, and they were great, and would work for a commuter or road bike as well] (http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-149319-PD-M530-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B0052XXW32/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464887791&sr=8-1&keywords=Shimano+PD-M530+Trail+Mountain+Pedals)

Is this the one you're talking about, or do you mean the A530 or the M324? It looks to me like the M530 is dual sided clipless, but there's only one picture in Amazon, so I can't be sure.

I'm considering getting clipless pedals, but I also like riding to the grocery store or park and it doesn't make sense to change shoes.

I use this to lock the frame and front wheel to whatever I'm locking my bike to and this to secure my back wheel to my frame. I also fun a wire through the second one to secure my saddle.

Locking your bike up is all about deterrence. A determined and knowledgeable thief can get through any lock. The best way to deter a thief is to make sure other bikes are more attractive targets. A good thief could get through both the locks I listed - and any other lock - with an angle grinder, but the trouble of getting through one very heavy duty lock as well as secondary one will make a thief think twice when 90% of the bikes locked up are going to be easier to steal.

As far as other tips: DO NOT LEAVE YOUR BIKE OUTSIDE OVERNIGHT! Bring it up to your apartment or dorm. This isn't always possible but the chances of a bike getting stolen go up tremendously if a bike is left out all night in the dark. When your out and about during the day, try to lock it in a well trafficked area and if possible somewhere where there are other bikes which - as I said - will hopefully be easier targets for theft. Better them than you bro.

your best bet is probably to find a reputable used bike shop and talk to them about your needs and what you're looking for. bike slug on bedford av. in brooklyn is an excellent place to go for that, as is frank's on grand street in manhattan. it'll cost more than getting a bike on craigslist, but you can also be sure that everything works correctly. the other reason i would suggest a used bike is that it's much, much less likely to get stolen in NYC. BUY A GOOD LOCK AND USE IT.

as far as bike type, the classic bikes for riding around the city are: (1) rigid mountain bikes like this one, because they're cheap, strongly built, and they're very fast if you replace the off-road tires with road tires. (2) road bikes from the 70s and 80s, which are similar: fast, cheap, and you can still get replacement parts if something breaks. it's pretty common to replace the drop handlebars with upright bars, which give you better visibility. (3) you could consider a single-speed, which is simple to maintain and easy to ride, but it'll be kind of a bitch climbing up the bridges.

those kinds of bikes will be perfectly fine for any ride under 10 miles. (that's basically the distance from chelsea, uptown to columbia, and back-- or the distance from prospect park to coney island.)

> What would be a good, lightweight replacement pedal?

http://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-MG-1-Magnesium-Platform-16-Inch/dp/B00E7UZ5OK

lightweight and a broad platform.

I bought this and while they're not bright enough to illuminate the path, they make me visible to cars, take AAA batteries, and still work after 1+ years. For $8!

I have always gotten lights that run on AA or AAA batteries, and I use rechargeables. On sale from Canadian Tire, or cheap off Amazon, rarely more than $10 for a front and back light. Only every had to replace the lights due to my own carelessness (misplacing or dropping them).

Even the cheapest LED based lights are bright enough to be visible and provide illumination far enough ahead to be safe at the speed I ride.

I guess for someone biking daily at 35km/h down a lonely country road, super-duper bright lights might be useful. At that point might as well get a good flashlight that also has a bike mount, that would be more versitale, and would still be less than $70.

Understood:
Front and back bike lights - $8
https://smile.amazon.com/BV-Bicycle-Headlight-Taillight-Quick-Release/dp/B00A6TBITM/ref=sr_1_4?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1500239069&sr=1-4&keywords=bike+lights+front+and+back

A bike is a pretty convenient thing to have on campus, especially if you can't bring a car. You can get to classes quicker (more time to sleep), get around town, and get to work. Plus you'll get a little bit of fitness in the process.

I would look at the used market for a steel-frame single speed bike for simplicity in that there will be less to worry about mechanically and maintenance wise. I'd advise you be as price conscious as you can be since unfortunately bikes are a target for theft or vandalism on college campuses and even the best bike locks are temporary deterrents to a thief. Sometimes having the least desirable bike in the rack is a good thing.

Riding in the rain isn't very difficult, just don't corner hard and give yourself more room while braking. Riding in the snow is a different story. I would look out for some all-condition type tires that have some tread on them to help you get around in the rain. This light set can be had for <$10.

These guys did the math: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNedIJBZpgM

Basically, it's not more efficient overall, but it will give you more power over short distances like on climbs or sprints.

Doesn't matter for most people unless you want your foot in exactly the same spot each time. I kind of like being able to move my foot around and not being obligated to wear a certain kind of shoe each time I ride.

Also, there are many different kinds of platforms if you go that route. I like these: http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.drillium

Would probably get these if I did it again, much cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-MG-1-Magnesium-Platform-16-Inch/dp/B00E7UZ5OK/ref=sr_1_4?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1472943200&sr=1-4&keywords=platform+pedals

That's just the way people are .. people will steal whatever they can get your hands on.

Do you have the serial number of the bike? You might be able to go to the police and report the theft and hope someone gets back to you.

Unfortunately this might be one of those times where you learn a lesson and move on since bike theft is pretty common in Waterloo (just do a quick google search and you'll find multiple instances of this happening)

Some tips for next time:

make sure to buy a decent U-Lock with a cable it's going to be bulky and expensive but worth it since thieves go for the easiest bike they can get their hands on. That means any bike locked with a cable lock can easily be cut in a matter of seconds with a pair of decent bolt cutters without much work. While we're on that point make sure to lock your bike securely. People generally recommend the Sheldon Brown Bike Lock method since it locks the frame and back wheel to the post making it more difficult to cut.

Second is to never let your bike unattended overnight especially if it is a public area like the garage of 333 Lester. Even if the building has a controlled entry secured bike room its always best to keep it in your own suite.


Yes it does suck having it stolen, you might have some luck if you browse kijiji/craiglist/fb buy and sell forums and see if you can find a bike that looks like that. Then if possible meet up in a secure location (police station) and examine the bike serial number/identifying features. Just know that a lot of the time it is very difficult to trace down theives and you might just have to take the loss.

just get these pedals for $30

http://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-MG-1-Magnesium-Platform-16-Inch/dp/B00E7UZ5OK

free shipping w/ prime or order over $35

I do the same thing at parks and forest roads. I don't have the budget, or want for hard locking panniers, so I just lock my gear to the bike.

I bring a small bike U lock that comes with a cable lock. The cable I put through everything I can, helmet, jacket arm, pant leg and loops on my soft panniers (I just stash my boots on the other side of the bike). The U-lock I put through the wheel to secure the bike. This is the one I use, but you can probably get a cheaper one

I bought these and love them:

Wellgo MG-1 Magnesium Pedal

Try some Wellgo pedals: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7UZ5OK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use a Kryptonite Mini Evolution and find that it fits perfectly in the back pocket of a pair of jeans.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch-5-5-Inch/dp/B005YPK9C0/

Monsieur Cycles. You'll get an affordable and good-looking tank. Then, wire it to the national database (here), get yourself a robust U-lock and you'll be fine. Your initial budget (400€) will do for the ensemble.

If you're in a city with street lights and you're mostly concerned with being seen than seeing by your lights, almost any cheap lights will work. Here's something picked at random from amazon under $10:

https://www.amazon.com/BV-Bicycle-Headlight-Taillight-Quick-Release/dp/B00A6TBITM/

As something of a side note, blinky rear lights are fairly directional. If they're not pointed straight back they almost might as well not even be on. I routinely see people with tail lights mounted to helmets, clothing or just pointed downward while mounted on the seatpost and they are barely visible from more than 30 feet (but if aimed in the right general direction they're extremely bright).

Also, regarding hi vis vests that people are recommending, they really only work as a reflector. While they are decent to make you visible to cars behind you, they in no way replace having a headlight. Headlights are to make you visible for people who don't have their headlights pointed at you (ie those who are crossing your path). This is why many locales only require a headlight and a rear reflector after dark (but you should really have a rear light anyways).

>Is 1 U-lock and a cable enough

This can heavily depend on the brand. No lock/chain/cable will 100% protect your bike, the goal is to either make it too much work, too much time, (edit: too obvious in public,) or not worth the time. You should be asking yourself how much is your bike worth and how much are you willing to invest in protecting it, both money wise but also time wise (how long do you want to spend locking and unlocking your bike every time you park?)

Edit: This would be my general recommendation if you have a bike worth protecting but are still on a budget, here's a video of a locksmith breaking it down

Edit 2: For comparison this is a lock that would make thieves' mouths water, you could break it surrounded by a hundred people without even looking like youre stealing a bike

$30 is probably worth it..but I did go to a bike PGH event where they gave out free lights to everyone that attended. Maybe if you reach out to them they could hook you up?

Edit: found this one for under $10 on Amazon BV Bicycle Light Set Super Bright 5 LED Headlight, 3 LED Taillight, Quick-Release https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6TBITM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ArVywbN1SWFR6

Hap hap hello there! I am a bot and you linked to Amazon.

This comment contains 1 pricing graph(s)

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Product 1: Kryptonite Evolution Mini-5 Bicycle U-Lock with Transit FlexFrame Bracket (3.25-Inch x 5.5-Inch) (B005YPK9C0)

Imgur pricing graph

||Amazon|3P New|Used|
|--:|:--|:--|:--|
|Cur|$49.99|$44.35|$40.00|
|Hi|$59.95|$59.95|$100.02|
|Lo|$35.87|$29.99|$29.00|
|Avg|$52.42|$56.57|$48.36|

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^^I'm ^^a ^^bot. ^^Please ^^PM ^^any ^^bugs

Someone else suggested these MG-1 pedals to me when I was looking, they are pretty darn good for the price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E7UZ5OK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503847005&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mg-1+pedals&dpPl=1&dpID=41MHClFiruL&ref=plSrch

If you want platform pedals welgo mg-1's are fantastic and affordable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E7UZ5OK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483136257&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wellgo+mg+1&dpPl=1&dpID=41MHClFiruL&ref=plSrch

If you want clipless you'll need pedals and special shoes

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch-5-5-Inch/dp/B005YPK9C0/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1415952249&sr=8-26&keywords=ulock

Couple things to add for the shopping list: especially for the 3am part:

Safety Vest

Slap light for left ankle to identify your edge

Lights

About $25 for the above.

Rear mirror

Make sure the bike has the standard reflectors on the spokes, pedals, front and back as well.

Reflective tape if you are riding an all black or dark bike - wrap strips around your spokes, frame and seatpost

Some would say ALL THE ABOVE TOGETHER Is overkilling it and maybe it is all it takes is one semi-drunk who did a couple too many shots blasting down some rural road at 4am doing 90mph to end you.

Even just a glancing blow off the side of a big 4x4 mirror rig could fuck you up bad and NOW YOU'RE DOWN.

You're laying on the side (if you're lucky and didn't get hung up and dragged) of a rural road at 5am waiting for the next drunk to come along and finish the job.

This is a real concern.

Now if this happens and you are wearing dark clothes on a black bike with no reflectors they could end up hitting you before they ever see you especially when you add dark (limo) tinted windows + stereo blasting and subwoofers thumping.

Now add texting on the phone to the equation.

It's all over. You're roadkill.

You need to make yourself more than just a little visible. They need to see you from a fricken mile away. even if you are sprawled out in the street.

TIP: I use the slap light so they can see where the edge of me actually IS. I usually hang it on the left end of my handlebar - on my rearview mirror. Or on my left ankle so there is a light moving up and down along with pedal reflectors - that says 'dude on a bike up ahead'.

Thanks! I was looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/Conquer-Trainer-Portable-Exercise-Magnetic/dp/B0094KIVQW/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1484579504&sr=1-2&keywords=bike+trainer.

Any thoughts on that?

They do mention noise, but a lot of people also discuss not using slicks. They seem to think resistance is OK, but it's tough to know what kind of experience they have.

I ended up using the duotrap sensor on my Trek, but you could absolutely go this way...

Speed/cadence sensors
https://www.amazon.com/Onlydroid-Wireless-Bluetooth-Speedmeter-MapMyRide/dp/B06XG8VY4X/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1523381436&sr=8-6&keywords=speed+and+cadence+sensor

Trainer - use the cyclops mag profile
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094KIVQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you've got a smart phone or a BT laptop, you're likely all set at that point. If not, you'll probably want to pick up an ANT+ dongle for your laptop (and you may want to go this way anyway)
https://www.amazon.com/adapter-PerfPRO-CycleOps-TrainerRoad-extension/dp/B079217ZGV/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1523381608&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ant%2B+dongle&psc=1

All told? The list runs out to under $150. If you decide you like Zwift, you can always upgrade later on. But this way you're not spending a ton upfront.

I bought this trainer for $60 on amazon. Been using it for a year with zero problems on both my road and mountain bikes. I had tested my friends smart trainer at first and realized I did not like the feeling so I bought this on a whim just until I figured out what I really wanted...now I don't really plan to upgrade at this point. Works fine for zwift.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Conquer-Trainer-Portable-Exercise-Magnetic/dp/B0094KIVQW/ref=pd_day0_hl_468_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0094KIVQW&pd_rd_r=9569397f-eb42-11e8-b188-2fb63616cf11&pd_rd_w=3Na8Q&pd_rd_wg=qIBkN&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=PTJXYMW6DEVKH65G1TCY&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=PTJXYMW6DEVKH65G1TCY

Trainer: https://www.amazon.com/Conquer-Trainer-Portable-Exercise-Magnetic/dp/B0094KIVQW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520905659&sr=8-1&keywords=turbo+trainer

Bike: https://tribebicycles.com/products/haka

I have a feeling it would be easier to peruse the streets and garage sales until someone throws theirs out.

You are going to need to make a stand that will hold the bike and not tip. On top of that, your rear wheel needs something draining the energy (it is is peddling down hill otherwise).

I think I would go with an A frame that has a metal rod where the wheels attach. the rear wheel needs some resistance; I think modifying the wheel to act as a fan would work.

It would be much simpler to watch the curbs or buy what outobounz linked http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0094KIVQW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1462259827&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=indoor+cycle+trainer&dpPl=1&dpID=417sPpqt%2BkL&ref=plSrch

Congrats on your awesome progress! I'm glad to hear you've drunk this magic elixir called bike addiction. :)

I do casual rides of about 8 miles a few times a week. I'm lucky to live in Florida where I can bike year round, but for the nights/rainy days when I want to pedal a bit but don't want to haul the bike up and down the stairs to my studio apartment, I bought this bike trainer

It's only slightly loud (no complaints from the neighbors, anyway!) and easy to hook up, especially if you've got a quick release latch on the rear tire. The thing is though, it's boooooriinggggg. I have to watch netflix with closed captioning on to stay on it for any length of time, but it is nice to have the option, especially if winter would otherwise keep you down!

That's interesting, I'm riding an internal hub bike now, similar 22km commute in city.

With my non-internally geared bikes, I'm getting maybe 3500km per chain, but single speed I was getting closer to 11,000km per chain, probably helped by the always-straight chain-line and never mashing gears. Hoping with the reduced tension in the chain on my new internal hub I could push chain life further.

Get a chain checker tool, they're great for figuring out when you need to get a new chain without much fuss.
With achain checker if the thing on the end doesn't slide into the chain, your chain is still good enough.

I would do it in the spring, if you can get away with it but it is a risk. Winter weather is tough on the transmission.

you run the risk of breaking your chain if you don't get it changed. Happened to me on my commute home and walking the bike through the snow was awful. How long is your commute? If you don't have one already, I suggest buying a chain checker. They are $10 or so and will tell you how much wear you have on the chain. I would not go through winter if you are at 50% or less.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CC-3-2-Chain-Checker/dp/B000BR3LHQ/ref=asc_df_B000BR3LHQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312111916046&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14744392110579954068&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1016367&hvtargid=pla-493478287143&psc=1

Learn to take care of your bike and be aware that stuff will wear out much faster than you're used to. Lube your chain with actual chain lube regularly (and don't forget to wipe off the excess - too much lube is almost worse than none at all). Pay attention to chain wear (I'd suggest getting an inexpensive chain checker and learning how to use it properly) and replace the chain when it's worn to avoid wearing out the rest of your drivetrain prematurely. Pay attention to tire wear and know how to change a flat. Don't forget your brake pads either. Be prepared to replace cables and housing at least once a year - more if you're riding in nasty conditions regularly.

One of the biggest mistakes that I see messengers (new ones, at least) make is not taking care of their bike. They do no maintenance until something stops working entirely, then come into the shop and are shocked at how expensive the repairs will be because they haven't been maintaining things.

FYI you can get a chain wear indicator to check you chain. this takes the guess work out of when you would need to replace your chain. The tool only measures for wear on the chain so rear cog replacement can still takes some guessing.

link for chain wear indicator.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CC-3-2-Chain-Indica/dp/B000BR3LHQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499892870&sr=8-2&keywords=chain+checker

link explaining chain wear
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-wear.html

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CC-3-2-Chain-Indica/dp/B000BR3LHQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1377578171&sr=8-4&keywords=chain+checker+tool

When you pick up your new chain, also pick up a chain checker. Replace when the chain gets to .75 slack... http://amzn.com/B000BR3LHQ

Tube

Levers

Frame pump (or alternatively CO2 inflator)

Patch kit (optional)

Saddle bag

A saddle bag for 12$
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=gbps_img_m-2_cf04_7bcb82d3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=39cfb27c-9112-44c5-bea3-1a73e8a2cf04&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=14795753011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=13ABAGTWADT9HB075TE5

This Topeak bag in medium has served me really well.

It can hold a tube, tire levers, patch kit, mini pump, multi tool, lights, and a 15mm wrench. It has one of those expansion zippers that lets the bag elongate to accommodate more storage.

I've had this Topeak bag (Topeak Aero Wedge Pack with Buckle (Medium) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_l2Pbub1P812NV) for a while now and it is pretty good. Stays dry, expands if needed, does not move around too much. Can fit a 29" tube, multitool, cellphone and maybe a snack bar without expanding.

• [Crank Brothers multi tool] (http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Bicycle-19-Function-Silver/dp/B0012Q41HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418363910&sr=8-1&keywords=crank+brothers+multi+tool)
  
  
• [Topeak saddlebag] (http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Aero-Wedge-Buckle-Medium/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364745&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+saddle+bag)
  
  
• [Cygolite Metro 400 Headlight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-400-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B00LXTOT6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364255&sr=8-1&keywords=cygolite+metro+400)
  
  
• [Cygolite Hotshot Taillight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y)
  
  
• [CatEye Wireless Bike Computer] (http://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-CC-VT220W/dp/B004RE783W/ref=sr_1_16?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1418364327&sr=1-16&keywords=cateye)
  
  
• [Finish Line Chain Lube] (http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-4-Ounce-Squeeze/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting)
  
  
• [Genuine Innovations CO2 Inflator] (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2628-Ultraflate-Inflator/dp/B002AGI1QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420015344&sr=8-1&keywords=innovations+co2+inflator)
  
  If you're looking to up your riding game, everything listed above will save you from any trouble you have on the road. Cycling computer is always neat to have too!
  
  Cygolite Metro 400 and the Hotshot are brilliant. The lights definitely pack a strong punch. I'll tell you right now, unless the lighting in your town sucks ass or you go off road riding, the metro 400 is a great light and you don't really need to go much higher than that.
  

Wedge pack for the bike!! Thanks for the contest Ben!!

You're welcome! They send you a bright blue non-removable sticker to put on your bike, identifying it as registered with the police. Could be an additional deterrent, who knows.

Locking: Sturdy U-Lock (like the New York Fahgettaboudit) through the frame & rack, sturdy cable lock (I have this one) through the wheels and secured to your U-lock. Locks are still only a deterrent, but that and locking in a highly visible location could be enough. At least, I've had luck with it. Knocks on wood

sorry, I was only awake for about 45 seconds when I made my initial reply this morning.

Get a U lock from someone like Kryptonite or On Guard. generally the more expensive ones are safer. avoid cables. all locks will only buy you time. any lock can be cut with an angle grinder.

the goal is to make your bike harder to steal than the ones around you so in a city environment you want to really protect your investment.

the safest way to lock your bike up is by the rear wheel like this. personally I also lock the frame and rear wheel like this but Sheldon Brown and the site I got the images from argue that theyre the same. I lock the frame in part for its adding stability (my lock is a little long).

The rear wheel is more expensive than the front, so its not going to hurt as much to lose the rear wheel. however, if you want to lock the front wheel up too (maybe because its a quick release) you can lock the wheel to a post or to the frame using a U lock OR you can loop a cable trough the wheel and then slide one of the loop ends through your lock. this should only be a secondary defense for your front wheel and should not be used to lock your whole bike.

if you live in an area where a pencil thin coil cable lock is enough then just lock up the rear wheel with a U lock. you bike will be much more secure than the ones around you within a huge radius and you wont ever have to worry.

I have an on guard pitbull with the loop cable (I dont use it but its nice to have in-case I know my bike is going to be locked at night for a few hours in the city. thats the only time ill have it with me).

After reading all of the bike stealing threads, bike stolen videos etc. I purchased:
This
and this
and this

I think I'll be good.

I got a Ziotek Chassis lock to prevent people from opening the case, to quickly steal the GPU. Yes, anyone can bypass these lock, but it would be more challenging than just having thumb screws.


I plan on, within a few weeks, drill a small hole at the back of the chassis, enough to fit one of these padlock using this security cable , tied down to either the bed or desk.

• edit: nvm, I don't think you can do this to your rosewill challenger. I can with my R4 because it has a side panel hand scoop thingy(don't know the technical term) where I can drill a hole Like this

Long cable,Great padlock.

This is what I use.

With the thickness of that cable, it makes the padlock latch disappear.

No problems.

Man that sucks.

I use this heavy ass lock. A hacksaw can still cut through it, but it takes more time.

I also use this cable to secure my quick-release front wheel.

There's no sure way to secure your bike, all you can do is use good locking stratagy. Lock it to something solid in a well lit place where people are more likely to notice a theif with a saw or bolt cutters.

My condolences on your loss, as someone who has had 6 or 7 bikes stolen so far in my lifetime I know the feeling well and am militant about gaurding against anyone stealing another.

I am car free and cycle daily 12 months a year.
I would like details on the lock.

1. cost.
   
2. name of lock.
   
3. was the broken lock left behind? how was it bypassed?
   
4. type of lock: cable? chain? key? edit: read the combo lock part...those locks aren't what we would consider solid.
   
   I am hyper sensitve about my bikes and locking them up and would like to know whats being used locally and the capabilities of the thieves around the area. Thank you.
   
   Locks you might consider in the future: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B005YPK9SY/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
   Free shipping on this one, it arrived in just 6 days.
   
   Thieves HATE seeing 2 locks on a bike so I use 2, or sometimes 3. Just don't make them the same type of lock. The second one should be chain in my opinion. If for some reason you want the absolute pinnacle of chain locks then you have to order from these fellows across the pond. http://www.almax-security-chains.co.uk/index.asp?pg=1
   Cable locks are a joke they can be bolt cropped in seconds or simply twisted broken with a pipe. Only use cable as a secondary lock. one of these threaded through componants perhaps. http://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B000NOO3ZQ/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

nothing special really

http://www.amazon.com/SKS-X-Tra-Bicycle-Fender-Black/dp/B000X61N2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290926211&sr=8-1

It does the job for something that's easy to take off and on.

Here it is on Amazon.

This is the lock and chain I use on my surly cx, should I upgrade to the forgetaboutit? http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-U-Lock/dp/B0010XTIB8/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1309897259&sr=1-1

I don't think that's totally fair. This is a great bike, but you're talking like it's a $10,000 bike.

I hate to say it, but your bike is probably not going to be found. So lets focus on the next one.

Best precaution: get a good bike lock. Lots of places review them, here's one: http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Bike-Locks-Reviews

They are expensive, but not as expensive as losing your bike.

This seems to get good reviews: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Series-Standard-Bicycle/dp/B0010XTIB8

And comes with a $1500 guarantee (as, with most guarantees, it's a bit of a pain to collect, but at least it's something)

A bicycle one I bought while living on London, someone tried to break through it and they couldn't, so I suppose it's good enough.

It's a Series 2 IIRC, like this one. I use it in combination with my disc lock.

>Is there a specific type or brand that you know of? And where would I get this, a bike shop?

If it's a little, use clear coat nail polish, if it's a bit more... maybe spray can from like walmart. I'm not 100% on this.

>The lever feels normal when I brake, I just feel like the actually brake pads aren't gripping the wheel well so it's kind of slipping.

The pads are cheap <$10, but take in your old ones to the store so they can match it up right.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010XTIB8/ref=oh_details_o05_s02_i00

THis is the lock I use... I bought it a few months ago when it wasl ike $35.... u lock for the frame and backwheel + cable for the front wheel.

There’s a product called frame saver that will prevent rust on the inside of a steel frame. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012GO58Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_a12FAbNVVCYBD

Keep it inside if you can. If you must leave it out, try to get a tarp or cover for it. You could also get Framesaver. I've never used it, but you could try it out.

There are products out there specifically made for steel framed bikes that coat the inside of the frame tubes as a layer of protection against moisture and oxidation, which leads to rust; paint protects the exterior of your tubes, frame sealer protects the inside. JP Weigel is the usual go-to, you just dissasemble your bike and spray it down the tubes. There's more info around the web, including this article from John Allen/Sheldon Brown.

Kool stop dual compound brake pads

OR

Kool stop salmon brake pads

You need the right pads for all weather conditions if you are riding in the rain. Especially heavy rain.

Regular black brake pads are truly for DRY conditions only.

Dual compound is for both. Salmon is for mostly wet.

Give a pair of these a try and not only will you have the best and strongest rim braking you've ever had, you'll have the best all-weather performance there is for rim brakes. It is absolutely worth the money and one of the best bike upgrades you can do for a rim-brake bicycle.

Make sure to toe in brakes to avoid squeaking and you're golden.

If this is for a commuter bike and rain happens here and there, this is a necessity for safety, not a luxury. The right brakes are just as necessary as a helmet.

3 out of my 4 bikes have rim brakes and these are the only pads I use or recommend. Getting the toe in correct for squeaking is a thing, but other than that they are the best brakes out there for rims. Hands down. Especially for rain and snow.

You're in the same boat as me! Kinda.. I ride a 2003 Giant NRS3, my first ever bike and likely the only bike I'll own for quite a while.

Granted it's a full suspension, not a hard tail, but from what I've found, it's pretty hard to do little upgrades to such old frames. When I wanted to replace the fork, RockShox only had two new offerings with rim brake compatibility, otherwise I would've had to buy disc compatible hubs which would've been much more expensive. There wasn't much selection left for rear shocks either, and most tire manufacturers have moved their best stuff away from 26" wheels.

Basically, with these older bikes, there really isn't much choice left in terms of making them nearly as competitive as modern bikes.

I've bought wider bars, a shorter stem, new grips, new pedals, new tires, and new brake pads, and that's just about the most you'd be able to do with most of these old frames in terms of changing your riding experience.

If you're looking for better brakes though, these have worked great for me. Converting to discs was way out of my budget, and these are much more powerful than standard pads.

Ah! Yes. Then you need brake pads for v brakes, linear pull brakes.

Kool-Stop Dual Compound Mountain Pads for Linear Pull Brakes Threaded,Black/Salmon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XFsKDb119BBTN

Anything like this. Personally, i like the pads that have removable inserts. They arent that much more and replacing shoes are a lot easier since you dont have to muck with positioning.

Kool Stop Bicycle V-Type Holder with Brake Pads (Dual Compound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T35RSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHsKDbR6NBC2N

Velo orange make a set. Clarks. Avid. Really any brand has a decent product like this.

if they are stock brake pads i suggest replacing them , stock pads suck . Kool-Stop makes bitchen brake pads

i use these

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VT8VXQ3PEAV6TW65VHEX

​

also make sure you ajusted the brakes right so they both bite at the same time

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YS1cW3I4OgQ

park tools does a good job explaining it

There's no 100% theft-proof method which sucks but it is just the reality. But you *can* make it damn hard. Here's what I did b/c I was in the same situation as you.

1. Invest in a good fuckin chain. Any chain can be cut with enough time but a thief won't waste time on a bike with a heavy chain when there are plenty of bikes/scooters/etc. in Cstat up for grabs. I bought a used one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboudit-1410-Chain/dp/B001JPS200/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543377402&sr=8-3&keywords=faghettaboudit.
   
2. Always lock your steering when parking
   
3. Best place to park would be a house garage. But if you're like me and live at an apartment, park in a highly visible area with foot traffic and preferably with other bikes/scooters (strength in numbers, yo). And *make sure* there's a steel beam/pole or some shit you'll be able to chain your bike up to. Bonus points if there are cameras too.
   
4. Having a bike cover would help too but I don't personally use one.
   
   The key in all of this is to make your bike the biggest pain in the ass to steal. You don't have to do all of this, just be better than the other guy who parks his bike in the area.
   
   ​

I read about that, but was thinking it looks a little small. I was thinking of the chain version, but my girlfriend insists that it's too heavy and there's no way I'll be carrying that daily back and forth from work.

In addition to the threat of being stolen, the weather may cause certain components like the chain to rust more, especially if you don't use the bike that often.

If you must leave your bike parked outside, you should get a high-quality bike chain to lock it up. They are heavy but more secure than a u-lock. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-999492-Black-Fahgettaboudit-Chain/dp/B001JPS200/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top

Make an insurance claim.

For future reference, use an insurance provider that doesn't cap the value of bikes at an unreasonable level (I use TD). Also, that lock is pure garbage. Get a heavy duty hardened steel chain, and a very small and expensive U lock. Eg: https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-999485-Black-39-Inch-Fahgettaboudit/dp/B001JPS200

Sorry, dude. That sucks.

Consider getting one of these for your next bike.

U-Locks and cables are famously easy to bypass. Chains are much, much more difficult to bypass. Bummer nobody told you that when you bought the U-Lock. :-(

After my third bike was stolen, I started using one of these. Over the past 2 years, I've gotten a lot of compliments but no visible molestation of the lock itself.

Any crank puller works. I used this one to fix one of our bikes this morning.

Your best bet would be to take it to a bike shop. They likely have a crank arm in stock that would work, assuming they used a normal size and the classic square taper interface. If you can't get the whole bike to the shop, you can probably remove the crank arm using one of these, and take that to the shop:

https://smile.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCP-22-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20

They're pretty easy to use, you can find youtube videos that explain it in a couple minutes.

The new crank arm should not cost more than $30 at a shop. Online they are really cheap, and this one is a known good brand:

https://smile.amazon.com/SR-Suntour-Replacment-Square-Taper/dp/B00GHTQ7YQ

Do you really need/want to replace your bottom bracket?

Looks like a square taper crankset. That should be easy to find and replace without touching the bottom bracket. You'll need a crank puller, something like this

If the bottom bracket is loose, you need to remove the crank arm(s) and tighten it. I'm guessing you don't have a crank arm remover or the correct adapter for the BB cups.

Although it'd be extremely helpful down the line to own all the tools you need for this, it'll be a lot faster and cheaper just to take it to a shop and let them figure out what's loose and what needs to be done to fix it. If you want to do it yourself, you need the following:

• Crank Puller
  
  
• BB Cup Tool
  
  
• Torque Wrench
  
  
• 8mm Allen wrench socket
  
  Use the torque wrench! If you don't, you can over-tighten and crack the BB cups, and press the crank arm onto the spindle too far.

Good news bad news. A longer allen tool will get that bolt out, but once it is removed, the crank will not come off unless you use a crank removal tool like this one.

Wow I don't know what happened but I apparently didn't save an edit. I had other links in there and also a link to the tool.

Here is the crankset that has the same rings you have

Here is the tool you need

The fine gentleman who also replied explained why I said what I said about the chain and ring combinations. You won't have to worry about that though if you get the crankset I linked with the correct ring combo.

I commuted on a 1994 Stumpjumper for the past few years at school. I used cheaper Kenda 1.95 road tires that are still good after I bought them summer 2011. I also put a rear rack that carried either m-wave panniers for grocery shopping, or a trunk for small stuff.

Lights are a big thing. You can get them cheaply, I've been using a planet bike set for a while. The tail light is either solid or flashing and is very bright, but the headlight leaves something to be desired.

Good luck!

These are my favorite 26"slicks.

For summer/mixed road use I have some Michellin XCR Dry 26x2.0's on at the moment - they work well on dry trails and don't have ridiculous rolling resistance on the roads. I had a set of kenda small block 8's last year and they worked pretty well to, similar tyre really.

I used to have a old MTB which was my commuting bike and also my pub bike, the one I didn't mind leaving locked up in town of an evening, but then the inevitable happened and someone nicked it. Anyways, I had some kenda slicks on that - if all you're doing is road and maybe the occasional dry, flat trail then slicks are your best bet.

I'm currently using my MTB for the same reasons. This week I finally put a couple of new Kenda 838 tires on it, and immediately noticed a huge difference from my worn out knobby tires. The engineering of them is very cool (they are a lot like motorcycle tires, and have an almost bell-shape for gripping better on turns), they're much smoother and quieter, and the improved grip on turns is really noticeable. $17.34 each on Amazon.

Definitely also get some good padded gloves and a decent helmet! And since you're commuting, I'd also suggest a mini tool, tire levers (for removing tire from rim), pump, patch kit, chain lube, and front/rear lights for low-light riding.

I had those tires on my old bike, a $300 hybrid. They worked great.

FWIW I used these every day all last summer without issue: https://smile.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Clip-on-Quick-Release-Panniers/dp/B009LNOXF0/ref=pd_sim_468_12?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009LNOXF0&pd_rd_r=HMXDHHDFM28KD6DMQ0RP&pd_rd_w=h5S82&pd_rd_wg=NeSH1&psc=1&refRID=HMXDHHDFM28KD6DMQ0RP

This rack: https://smile.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-IB-RA4-Non-Disc-Frame-Mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002T5H8MW&pd_rd_r=AS4WPBTSD6MSHYPGNT6G&pd_rd_w=Tukkq&pd_rd_wg=wvdFy&psc=1&refRID=AS4WPBTSD6MSHYPGNT6G

$120ish all in, but worth it.

I put an Ibera Rack on my BikesDirect CX Bike without issues. I used the one for disk brakes. It can be installed at different angles, and I've never had a rattle or a squeak from it. I liked the way the Ibera looked, and it works well with its companion bags.

I only have the one bag, so the bike was unbalanced at a stand-still, but I really liked it. It has a shower-cap bag stowed in a bottom pocket for when it rains. I managed to put two 2-liters and my personal and work laptops in the one bag once. It was tight, but fit.

The TOPEAK bags and racks are much more popular, for sure.

If you have serious trouble with the screws squeaking, you can use split-washers to hold tension on them.

The most sustainable, enjoyable fitness is the one you love doing.

For years I was told that cardio was the way to go, the way to stay fit, that thing that will slim you down. And so I did it, for years, and I hated it. And as a result, I was inconsistent. But then I started hanging around xxfitness, and everyone was like, "lift heavy! squatz! bench pressessss!". And so I did -- and I LOVED IT. I've been going consistently, I feel positively challenged, and I am amazed at my progress.

But this is just my example. You need to find something that you love doing. If you love biking, and you own a bike, get yo'self one of these and peddle away inside! Maybe even pop a movie in, and peddle while watching, if that's your thing. Once the chill is gone, then go back outside! I would also suggest /r/bodyweightfitness, if you want strength training without the machines, or pick up a set of dumbbells if it's in your budget.

I think another thing to remember is that staying fit, while it should be fun, also requires a little bit of sacrifice. If being fit and in shape was easy, everyone would be super in shape all the time!

Echoing what u/draconishex said. We mount our road bikes on a trainer in the basement during winter. There's a ton on Amazon, and I'm sure you could find them on the UK site too.

Get an indoor training stand for a bicycle. You can use said bike outside like normal and use the training stand inside to ride while you watch TV. It's light and easy to move. Example

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004E1SVOI/ref=mp_s_a_1_51?ie=UTF8&qid=1497834938&sr=8-51&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=stationary+bike

Most people are going to recommend USB rechargeable lights - however, if you're like me and want to stick to AA/AAA lights, I personally love the Radbot 1000 (it has a reflector built in as a backup), and the Superflash Turbo (different company, but mount compatible with the Radbot).

https://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Radbot-Light/dp/B0030BS30K/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1474587656&sr=1-1&keywords=radbot+1000

https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Blinky-Superflash-Turbo/dp/B004U5PV5A/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1474587685&sr=1-1&keywords=superflash+turbo

Just a replacement cable kit. It will come with the metal nipples for the ends and even some cable housings but most likely you can just re use your current cable housings.

Just as an example. https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Universal-Standard-Brake-Cable/dp/B0050LUBZ8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=mtb+brake+cable&qid=1567710446&s=gateway&sr=8-4

I am not quite sure. I found this on Amazon and should be what you are looking for!

LHT Frame - $520 after tax

Chukker Wheels - $85 x 2

Tires Schwalbe Marathon Plus RLX 700 x 45 C Bicycle Tire - $54 x 2

Alloy Headset Spacers - $7.89 x 2

Shift Levers - $60

Chain - $10

Brake Cables - $10

Brakes - $15 x 2

Extra Long Shift Cables - $6

Derailleur - $24

Cassette - $17

Crankset - $40

Spindle - $24

Headset - $45

Seatpost - $20

Brooks Saddle - $145

Rack - $35

Brooks Panniers - $150 x 2

Brooks Bar Tape - $65

Tools

Saw Guide - $41.36

Starnut Setter - $22

I don't ride mountain a ton, but this combo works well for me. Could go cheaper I'm sure, but at a certain point you will need to upgrade quickly and you're wasting money.

https://www.amazon.com/Pearl-Izumi-All-Road-Cycling-Shadow/dp/B01GH93266/

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-149319-PD-M530-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B0052XXW32

Any cheap Shimano show you get on sale. Doesnt matter.

The IMPORTANT PART:

The actual cleat model u get should have release in any direction until you get used to it.

Something like this model:

https://www.rei.com/product/738015/shimano-sh-56-multi-directional-release-spd-cleats


Edit:

Dual side pedals will also help.


https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-149319-PD-M530-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B0052XXW32/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549029069&sr=1-3&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2762652011&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41v5v7OJbjL&ref=plSrch

I love the M530s. In the beginning, there are going to be moments where you don't manage to clip back in, and traffic is not going to stop for those 10 extra seconds you need to get it right. The M530s have enough platform space for you to comfortably pedal without being clipped in. Being double sided and durable as hell are also major bonuses.

We have these on both of our bikes since last August, and they work great. No issues at all: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052XXW32/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A bit cheaper online for sure, but usually when I need a new lock, I need it now.


I'm talking about the Evolution Mini 5 at minimum, $44 or so on Amazon (plus shipping since I'm in Canada and Canadian Prime doesn't have it)

To save a bit of weight, you can get one of the smaller U-locks like the Kryptonite Mini 5 and then lock it to the rear wheel, through the rear triangle.

You probably favor that chainring thus it has more wear. The more wear on the chainring the more space there is between the teeth.

When you put a new chain on it will not align perfectly with the teeth on your worn chainring (or your cassette cogs as your chain "stretches" over time, causing a little bit of a mismatch between chain links and teeth).

Since there is a little bit of a mismatch you will hear pops, creaks and your chain might slip occasionally. You can usually ride it out over time and allow your drive train to re-align itself (it can take a couple hundred miles if it's bad), but it's not a best practice. Ideally when this happens you would replace your cassette with your chain and any chainrings which are too worn. Chainrings tend to last quite a bit longer than cassette cogs.

Also, you can mitigate this in the future by buying a chain checker tool (like this). This tool will measure your chain elongation and when it becomes too elongated you simply replace the chain and avoid additional wear on the rest of your drive train, giving you a bit of added life (though I still replace my cassette about every ~5 chains and chainrings when they need it)

The following will get you out of most mechanical issues:
workstand
mini ratchet
set of hex bits for ratchet
1-10ish Nm torque wrench
10-100ish Nm torque wrench with adapter for 1/4" drive bits
Park spoke keys
homemade bearing/bb press out of plumbing odds and ends
Park chain checker
Park mini chain tool
Park chain whip
Park master link pliers
Park hollowtech crank cap tool

I'm 5' 10" 160lbs
Last 6800 ultegra chain got replaced at 2k miles.
Might have been work before that but if I recall was still good at 1500.

Used this wear checker and replaced when it fell through .75
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CC-3-2-Chain-Indica/dp/B000BR3LHQ

Those cogs look fine man, if you suspect chain wear theres a tool for that

Park Tool CC-3.2 Chain Checker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BR3LHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_BMtSCbQXRJKF6

Buy or borrow a simple chain checker, and re-index your gears. In addition, two simple cleaning steps can make things a lot smoother: wipe the gunk off your jockey wheels and clean between the cassette cogs by using a cloth and "flossing" between the cogs. Those steps can really make things work a lot better, especially if they've built up a lot of gunk.

Good luck!

It is a Topeak bag.

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Aero-Wedge-Buckle-Medium/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311554159&sr=8-1

Really great bag. Had it for a few years now.

I bought my first non-horrible bike today and I have a few questions:

This is the part of the post you will be most interested in

I found a second hand Specialized Vita Elite 2011 today for £250 which I'm hoping was a good deal. The tyres have been replaced with Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres which look to be brand new and they've added mudguards and a pannier rack. I think the derailer may have been replaced - it says Shinmara Deore on it now.

Everything looks to be in good condition, but I don't know anything so would it be worth taking it to a separate bike shop for an independent checkup? What are the less obvious signs of trouble I should be looking for?

I saw Specialized issued a recall including this model. Do I need to be worried about this?

How well is the bike going to handle being left outdoors? My landlord doesn't allow bikes to be stored inside so it is going to be in direct sun and rain. I don't really have anywhere else I can chain it.

What issues should I be checking for every time I go out to ride it? Every week/on a regular basis?

Are these any good?

Thanks in advance.

Hey nice bike! If I were you I would add a saddle bag with some tubes, tire levers, and maybe get a small pump, and since you're just commuting the whole "it ain't aero" thing doesn't really fucking matter in my opinion ;) I would recommend this and these and this. Also read up on sites like Sheldon Brown for basics, and also I would recommend the GCN youtube channel for repair and maintenance. Also as far as locks go get a U-lock like this for most security and use this locking method. Have fun and stay safe, and feel free to ask any questions to me or any of the other people on this sub!

The FinisherPix and clothing suggestions have links already.

I think for the personalisation (and for the suggestion from /u/Dirtwizards) you're going to have to find a friendly embroiderer near you. I think location is more important than a specific brand—there are often guilds that you can search through for the artisans.

For saddle bags, your friendly neighbourhood cycle shop will be the best place... probably on par with something you could find on amazon.

Similarly for the cap

And gu gels

Topeak saddle bag. I just bought one for my mountain bike and it fits: my keys, multitool, tube, tire levers, CO2 canister, and still a little bit of room to spare. I had a fall the other day, the first ride with my saddle bag, and I thankfully was able to readjust my handlebars with my multitool.

There's a larger option too, but I don't think you'll need it.

I use the Kryptonite Fahgettaboutit through my front wheel and frame, then loop this cable into itself through my saddle and back wheel and lock the end up in the U-Lock.

~$70 for a bigger piece of mind.

Your story saddens me. If you live in a big city, bike stealing is a real problem. However, bike is way to fun and good for you to give up. To avoid being stolen in the future, here are my suggestions.

Have the best lock you can find. Even the most expensive lock kit is still probably cheaper than buying a new bike. Also, make sure you watch a couple youtube tutorials on how to lock your bike, just to be sure you're making the best out of it. Also, you can choose a more modest bike, or simply make it look modest. Maybe don't clean it too often, etc, be creative!

If you live in a big city, you will most likely lock it close to many other bicycles. If yours has the thoughest lock and doesn't look like the best deal they can come up with, shitty bike stealers won't choose yours.

That said, go back to the camera guys and the police. They can't all be dicks. Seriously, do it!

Personally, I lock my bike with this U-Lock around the back wheel and the body and this for the front wheel. I also keep easy to remove valuable stuff in my backpack.

You should get a padlock with the gun -- all the manufacturers are shipping with them now to comply with state laws. So all you need then is a piece of heavy furniture (like your bed) and one of these

It was basically one of these with a simple padlock locking it together.

I don't know if they cut the cable or smashed the lock, there wasn't any debris left to tell how they got through it.

SKS Xtra dry 3

Mountain bike fenders don't look like commuter fenders, they're more heavy plastic clip-on things:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X61N2A

I've always been a fan of the ol' Beaver Tail.

What style fenders do people like? Is a front one ever necessary? Most of the splash is on my back. I was looking at this one (link) which seems pretty popular, but it's a funny shape.

For more comfortable, I would consider buying a rear fender. At least you won't get the mud trail up your back when you bike in the rain/slush.

For safer, I would buy yourself a high visibility vest, like this. Do you own a helmet? You should get one of those as well.

its the SKS mudguard: https://www.amazon.com/X-Tra-Rear-Bicycle-Fender-wheels/dp/B000X61N2A/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1486680251&sr=1-1&keywords=SKS+rear+mudguard

Getting some clip-on fenders could help a lot. I put this and this on my cross bike and my feet still get soaked but the face splash and back stripe are gone.

I just bought this detachable rear mudguard ($15 on Amazon) about a week ago and so far I love it. It's ugly as sin but damn if it doesn't work like a charm. Super quick and easy to put on/ take off the seatpost. Rode in the rain last weekend for several hours and didn't get a bit of water slung up my back.

Thanks for the advice! check out the link!

series two for half the price and free shipping

I work at a bike shop and my advice is get a U bar lock with cable. Put bar lock around rear wheel and frame and run cable through object you are locking the bike to and back to the U lock.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Series-Standard-Bicycle/dp/B0010XTIB8

There is a bike in the middle of the forest across from the stadium. It doesn't match your description, but hey, maybe you want a free bike. Bring a deadbolt, this lock is still on the front tire.

I thought the same thing at first and ended up going with this one (4" x 9") instead. After biking around with it for a while though I started to realize that it was almost always much larger than I needed, and I picked up the mini.

I pretty much never use the larger one now, and for my needs the mini is pretty perfect. It all depends on what you're going to be locking up to of course, but either way just make sure to go with some sort of U-Lock.

So this would be appropriate I assume?

I was checking out some customer reviews on Amazon and they said the lock gets jammed, just wondering what's your experience with that?

Rust inhibitor.

I usually just shoot some aerosol lubricant into the holes when I'm doing my spring maintenance routine.

The frames are actually the (relatively) superior part of the bargain with Masi.

The components tend to be middling and the wheels are generally cheap and heavy. All in all, they are very serviceable in stock trim, but to get that price point something has to give.

Make sure you (or a shop/someone with experience) uses something like FrameSaver in order to prevent the steel from rusting internally.

I used a Masi CX to tour the Pacific Coast Highway and could not have been happier with the performance/cost/value of the frame. I swapped out every other part over the course of 6 moths prior to the tour (with the exception of the headset).

that headtube looks right for a person 6ft tall. For bicycle touring, slighter bigger frame is better than a slightly small frame because it makes it easier to adjust the cockpit for comfortable long duration riding

I would powdercoat the frame, which is way more durable than any paint. It's also cheap. ( you can consider powdercoating much of the bike. Frame, fork, waterbottle cages, racks, etc. Disc bike owners can consider powdercoating rims) Here in western Washington (Seattle area) powdercoating runs $75-$100 for frame and fork. If you do go the powdercoat route, buy a can of JP Weigles FRAME SAVER. The powdercoat process heats the frame to about 350-400 degrees which eliminates all moisture in the frame. Frame Saver AFTER powdercoat)

I would start the show by concentrating on the weakest link on a touring bicycle.... the wheels and the drivetrain!

Start watching wheeling building videos on youtube. Subscribe to r/wheelbuilding. Buy a set of Shimano XT 36h hubs and a set of 26 inch rims. (Velocity Dyad, Sun RhynoLite, etc)

back in the late 80's when mountain biking was new I bought a brand new Trek 950 lugged frame mountain bike. 24 years later I toured around the perimeter of the USA on it. The only thing original on the bike was the frame/fork. I upgraded all other components including building the wheels.

videos to watch

"How to upgrade vintage bike with sealed cartridge bottom bracket"

Bottom Bracket differences, why they are critical

American bottom bracket; crank conversion

How to remove install sealed cartridge bearings

How to overhaul a bottom bracket

EDIT! if you still have the spindle (in the bottom bracket) KEEP IT! so you can measure it for the new sealed bearings.

Outside paint, inside framesaver. I used framesaver on my Surly touring frame and leave it outside all the time when I'm on tour. As long as you touch up any paint chips, it's likely to last much longer than an aluminum frame. For me, it's the catastrophic failure that can happen with an aluminum frame that turns me off. Steel bends, Aluminum breaks. http://www.amazon.com/Weigles-Bicycle-Frame-Saver-Inhibitor/dp/B0012GO58Y

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=kool+stop+mountain+brake+pads&qid=1562761914&s=gateway&sprefix=koolstop+mount&sr=8-3

In their stock config the longer spacer is already on the inside.

Just search "v-brake brake pads" on amazon and most of those should work. I use this for my front brake because it doesn't squeak but it isn't that powerful. If you don't have a front wheel that squeals like mine then get these really powerful ones.

Sorry not get back to you sooner was really busy yesterday. The 96 model think would have had cantilever brakes as stock, V-brakes were brand new when this came out, and prety sure the Indy forks didn't come out on bikes until 97 model year.

So parts list of stuff to buy

Cassette:

https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-8-Speed-Nickel-Plated-Cassette/dp/B00DI65HGU

Chain:

https://www.amazon.com/X8-99-Bicycle-Chain-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B0013BV540

You might want to buy two you will want to carry a spare chain on tour

Tires:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Crossmark-Black-Fold-Tires/dp/B00GHTQ7Q4?th=1&psc=1 (might find cheaper elsewhere, but you want the dual compound/DC ones with the EXO casing ideally - there are cheaper options for tires that would work than these but I think it's one area it's not so good to cheap out on)

Shifters:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SL-M360-Acera-Shifter-Speed/dp/B001ON6VIW

(or find some vintage 8-speed XT/LX ones from eBay, they are a little nicer)

Brake pads:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

These should make a decent improvement to braking power especially in the wet, you could bring the old pads on the tour as spares/backups if they still work OK and have life left (always want to have at least a pair of spare pads)

New cables:

https://www.amazon.com/JAGWIRE-MOUNTAIN-SHOP-KIT-Derailleur/dp/B01DJGUEE8

You'll need at least new inner cables to install new shifters, and probably a good idea to replace the housing too, though you need either really good cable cutters or a Dremel/rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to cut housing, or get a bike shop to cut it to length. Not suggesting white colour that was just the first link I saw though it might look pimp.

Tools:

You could get a tool kit like one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nz/en/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997

Or you could buy a multitool that would be good for bringing on the tour

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrelli-Bike-Multi-Tool-V19/dp/B06XGWMGB9

And extra stuff like cassette tool and chainwhip and tire levers individually:

https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Freewheel-Sprocket-Lockring-Maintenance/dp/B07GSRJGP3

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-1847-Bicycle-Tire-Levers/dp/B000UAQL6C

That might be the way to go.

That's not everything you'd need to go touring and stuff like the bars and saddle are a lot about personal taste but should be good to get you started.

Apologies for using amazon.com links I'm too used to helping Americans on here but hopefully can get them on the .ca site. Chain Reaction that I linked the toolkit from (would be confident that's the best out of those three kits I have some of the tools from it) in the UK can be a good place to order stuff from

I like these. Lots of braking power. Only downside is that you have to do the full setup again each time you change the pad. In stock holders, you can set it up once, and then just change the pad inserts.

Just about anything is better than the stock Tektro pads.

Sizing:
http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer

Tires:
http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Gatorskin-Bicycle-700x23-Folding/dp/B001UL5JNG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427761173&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+tires

Brake Pads:
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427761257&sr=8-1&keywords=kool+stop

Tune ups:
http://www.wasatchtouring.com/
http://highlanderbikeshop.com/service/

I ordered up a couple pairs of these Kool Stop pads from Amazon. Will report back once I get and install them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CLSWKQ

Pads are cheap and easy to replace, decent ones aren't even too expensive. I run https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CLSWKQ on my bikes myself and the difference between them and stock Tektro pads (or 30 year old pads) is night and day. They also stand out if anyone takes your bike, I mean who else has black/salmon pads? http://i.imgur.com/LEu0Ppj.jpg

If pads don't do it, you might need a cable replacement too. It's one of the easiest tasks around, you'll just need cable cutters which is the most expensive part of the whole ordeal.

Question on bike security! I'm moving to Oakland and want to get some additional opinions on the setup I'm planning. I know that if a thief really wants my bike, they'll find a way to steal it, but my thinking is that if I can make my bike look especially hard to steal, very few people will bother trying.

First off, the bike will be in a gated garage under my apartment building. I'm going to place it on one of those Harbor Freight motorcycle dollies so I can position it between the wall and my roommate's car. The bike will be covered when I'm not using it.

For security, I have one of those Kryptonite locks I'll be using on the front disc. No alarm, though I'm thinking one with an alarm might be a good investment. I'm also going to make an anchor out of a 5 gallon bucket filled with quikrete, which I estimate will be about 100 lbs. I'm going to cast a thick U-bolt into it with a base plate to prevent pullout, then chain that to my bike's back wheel with this bad boy, which (according to some guy on YouTube) is resistant to anything short of the power tools or his best set of hardened bolt cutters.

I'm guessing the U-bolt would be the weak point here. The security chain is flattened so bolt cutters can't create a huge pressure point, whereas the U-bolt has a rounded cross section. If it doesn't stick out too far above the concrete, I'm guessing it would be hard to get good leverage on with bolt cutters, so that might help. I could use a coffee can as formwork to recess the bolt into the concrete, requiring the bolt cutters to be straight up and down in order to reach it and keeping a thief from gaining leverage on it.

Artist's rendition. Thanks in advance for any advice!

Depends on the chain lock :)

If I have to leave my bike for more than 15 or 20 minutes, I use this chain lock.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboudit-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B001JPS200

For what it's worth, this is the same price (cheaper, even) and provides significantly better security than the Hiplok. 14mm hardened manganese steel chain can withstand 16 tons of cut force... it's heavy, sure, but it'll keep your bicycle safe.

Skip the cloakd bag, sounds like a gimmick.

My situation is similar. I recommend you get:

1. Locking skewers for each wheel (make your wheels harder to steal)
   
2. A small chain lock to lock your seat to your frame (make your saddle harder to steal);
   
3. A heavy chain lock, like the Fuhgetaboutit chain lock from Kryptonite (make your frame and bike generally harder to steal);
   
4. A rear rack for your bike (to make hauling things easier);
   
5. Ortlieb backroller panniers (same reason; also waterproof; also bulletproof; get two so you can balance loads on both sides);
   
6. Fenders (to help stay dry in lighter rain and after heavy rains).
   
   If you intend to bike commute when it's actively raining, then you'll also eventually want decent rain gear. Shop REI, or if you have the cash, get the good stuff from Showers Pass.

Yeah, I don't mind buying a couple locks. I was looking into these locks:

Kryptonite 999485 Black 14mm x 39-Inch, 1410 New York Fahgettaboudit Chain and New York Disc Lock
Kryptonite New-U New York Fahgettaboudit Mini Heavy Duty Bicycle U Lock Bike Lock
Kryptonite New-U New York Standard Heavy Duty Bicycle U Lock Bike Lock

Abus Granit XPlus 540, U-Lock, Key - USH, 160x230mm, 6.3''x9'', Thickness in mm: 13mm, Black

Probably gonna get the NY chain, and one of these U-locks. Tough decision between the three u-locks. I don't know if the mini Fahgettaboudit will be versatile enough. I like the mounting bracket that comes with the Abus, but the 13mm shackle is putting me off. However, my research tells me that the Abus is the most pick-proof.

Feel free to chip in if u have any suggestions. I had no idea that UofT was that rampant of an area for bike thieves, damn!

I also have a cheap $20 supercycle u-lock from Canadian Tire from when I was a kid, so I'll probably use that as a THIRD lock as well LMAO.

​

Another question I have though, is this: Will having 2-4 locks (2-3 on the frame/wheels and a small Abus $15 4mm chain for the seat) on a bike make it MORE susceptible to it being stolen as it'll certainly catch the eye of a thief?

The biggest difference between cranksets is roundness, a more expensive crank is going to be rounder which means there's a smaller difference in chain tension which means it "absorbs" less energy is more silent. Expensive cranksets are also stiffer, but unless you're putting out 3000 watt that isn't really an issue.

That conversion kit looks like a bad idea, it's a bunch of the cheapest components being marketed as "hip".

They're called riser bars, as long as you find a bar with same diameter (probably 25.4 or 26 mm on older road bikes) you can keep the stem and headset.

Park makes super nice tools, and that stand is a great choice. But I'd really consider buying tools along the ride, instead of shelling out big time for this huge set. Since you are a tool guy you probably already have a good part of those wrenches and keys, so it'd be better to move a bit of that budget towards your bike.

For this conversion you'll need these tools:

• Chain whip
  
  
• Pedal wrench
  
  
• Chain tool
  
  
• Tire levers
  
  
• Crank puller
  
  
• Chain cleaner
  
  
• Bottom bracket tool
  
  This totals about half of what you'd pay for the complete set, so I'd go for the complete set if you need all the wrenches, but otherwise you can put an extra $100 into your conversion.

You have a square taper bottom bracket. It's a common standard, they'll fit. Your biggest concern will be making sure the crank length is the same (probably 175mm, you'll want to measure though) and the same or similar tooth count on the chain rings, although if you wanted to change that up to bigger or smaller rings now would be the time. To know what size your current chain rings are, just count the teeth.

If you do the work yourself, you're going to want a crank puller - there are cheaper versions of this tool, but I've not had good luck with them. You'll also need a 15mm crescent wrench to get the other pedal off, a set of hex keys or metric sockets to get at the crank arm fixing bolts, and a torque wrench to set the torque on the bolts when you reinstall (if you're in the US, an auto parts store like Autozone will loan you the torque wrench). And watch a couple Youtube videos to get oriented, I like RJ The Bike Guy.

Two options to replacing it yourself are to take it to your LBS, and if you do that then probably just best to take them the bike and let them order the part. OR, and this is my favorite, find your nearest Bike co-op. In return for a small donation of time and/or money, they will likely have the correct crankset in their used parts bin for cheap or free, and a fully stocked repair station for you to use and somebody to show you what you're doing. Bike co-ops rock, if you're lucky enough to have one near by.

I'm new to this so am probably not the best person to ask, because I'm not sure I know what you mean. They come with crank arms though. I think the puller depends on the kinda bike you have, but here's the one I ordered.

You can't put road bike wheels on your mountain bike, but you can switch the tires out to something more like a road bike tire. These will be slicker, so you'll get a little more efficiency on the road, you can usually find them by searching for "hybrid tires".

I used these before, and they worked well for me.

You could go for these tires to get a bit of that road bike speed again. I haven't tried it myself, but I plan on putting it on my Electric MTB which I use to get to college.

Assuming it's a 26" junker MTB, and Washington is the state (versus Washington DC)....

I use these tires while there's no snow: Kenda K838s

I'm on my second year of these tires. They do everything I expect them to do, at a cheap enough price. They do great in wet and dry conditions, and work okay with fresh snow.

For fenders, I use these: Planet Bike ATB Fenders

These perform okay, but honestly, I often wish I had purchased the version with the extra mud flaps. They keep most of the crap off me, but during heavy rain those flaps would be great at keeping my shoes clear of the spray from the K838s.

I did the same thing with my mountain bike. Look for Kenda Slicks in the size that was on there. They're good for all weather.

http://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Bicycle-Blackwall-26-Inch-1-95-Inch/dp/B002DX1DWG/

First, find the tire pressure. This is almost certainly the cause of your issue if you haven't checked it recently.

Also, the pressure range on mountain bike tires is wide, because riders tend to ride low-pressure off-road, and high pressure on road.

One more thing, big knobbly tires will seriously affect your rolling resistance, so if you do decide to change out your tires, you should take a look at some "slicks" -

e.g.: kenda k838

I was thinking about getting something like this to ride my trek wahoo around town.

Ok so need a little help deciding between these two tires. I may make this its own post if no one sees it.

http://www.amazon.com/Panaracer-Pasela-Tire-1-75-Wire/dp/B000650ZXG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1347749035&sr=8-3&keywords=panaracer+pasela+26

http://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Bicycle-Blackwall-26-Inch-1-95-Inch/dp/B002DX1DWG/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1347742956&sr=1-1&keywords=kenda+838

I've been using these all summer with no problem.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DX1DWG/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00

It's kind of hard to see, but they are slightly triangular so only about 1" contacts the road.

I put Kenda K838s and Odyssey pedals on a 2002 Specialized Rockhopper. It's not as fast as my road bike, but I can ride all over the city (over curbs, grass, etc), it's really comfortable, and a lot of fun!

http://i.imgur.com/XLRm1DO.jpg

I was really wanting this one because it looks incredibly sturdy, but I don't have the necessary threaded holes near the seatpost.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_3QV4tb1CZT06B

If you're going to be commuting you should look at getting fenders (SKS are good) and a rear rack and pannier bag (you're better off letting the bike carry your stuff; you won't get a sweaty back from a backpack). I'd also probably recommend a chainguard (which lets you ride in jeans/regular trousers without worrying about ripping the shit out of the cuffs).

This one. I did have to order a seat post clamp that has the mounting holes.

Ok, I assume you have a very, very low budget so here are some options for you:

• Find someones couch to crash on for now. Preferably someone with an internet connection
  
• Build some Kitty Litter Panniers for now or a back pack (you will regret only having a back pack) ($15-$30) - see if you can make 4 of them provided you can take a front rack. Two if you can not.
  
• Get a camping hammock with a rain fly or a bivy tent (I have no ideas if either of those are good, I'm just going cheap) ($50-90)
  
• Get a sleeping pad ($30)
  
• Get two racks if your bike can take them. One for the front and one for the back ($60)
  
• Get a small tarp (I am sure you can find better than this, perhaps even locally) for those days with REALLY bad weather. ($7)
  
• Get a pancho or other cheap rain gear ($15)
  
• Get some bungee cords ($5)
  
• Get camping pans ($15)
  
• Get a lighter ($0.50)
  
• You could build a camping stove but I can't vouch for how well these work. You might want a proper one ($5-$50)
  
• Get a pump (follow the recommendations others have made) $20-$50
  
• Get a tool kit and some spare parts (I really like the Survival Gear Box) $50-75
  
  So maybe $275-375 total cost before food and water? Man, that's still high...

You have three options:

• shim the attachment point out until the support does not interfere
  
• bend the support until it does not interfere
  
• get a rack with narrower tubular supports. It looks like all Topeak racks use those same flat supports, but I have an Ibera with tubular supports similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-IB-RA4-Non-Disc-Frame-Mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/

Lol, thats the exact trailer that I have. I saw a rack on Amazon that looks like it's going to work. I guess I shouldnt really worry about bags till I have a decent rack. What do you think about this one? It's going on a mountain bike http://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Touring-IB-RA4-Frame-mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=pd_sbs_sg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=15ERRXQWVPB797C5PFR2

It looks like there are eyelets for rack mounts so any rack like this should work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T5H8MW/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bEHOX_g468_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=ZWM7T83HJTAQ5WKKA7WP&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=4fa95ac1-9313-504c-a40b-72e9b9823f04&pf_rd_i=3403461

Panniers are can be a bit more 'sized'. Are your boots high tops? I'm thinking something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ET9W146/ref=abs_brd_tag_dp?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Full disclosure I have a Blackburn rear rack and some large drawstring top Jaand panniers I found used.

Do you have a bike? I also live in the southwest and use this indoor bike trainer when the weather gets to hot. It’s not loud and folds up nice for storage.

Sorry, I'm very new to the scene. I'm talking about a solo mount I believe. Linko to an example


After briefly browsing Kijiji (A Canadian Craigslist) I may just buy an actual trainer based off the used prices. They seem convenient for the price.

I got this one when it was about 20 bucks cheaper, and it does the job. Came with a front wheel stand..? Chock? Whatever. Kind of a pain to get it dialed to where you want to be, I can see the benefit to ones with a control on a cable, so you can change resistance without getting off the bike, but again, it was super cheap when I bought it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004E1SVOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_G7rPybMBRT2BX

A couple of months ago I bought my first Carbon fiber bike. It is a BMC Teammachine SLR03 2017. I have two questions, one is the use of a bike trainer (https://www.amazon.ca/Conquer-Indoor-Trainer-Exercise-Orange/dp/B004E1SVOI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542914069&sr=8-4&keywords=bike+roller). How useful are these, and are they safe to use on a carbon frame?

Another question is storage for winter. I cannot ride anymore this year because of the weather and will be storing the bike in a bed room inside an apartment. Are they any things to take into consideration with storing the bike? Thanks.

They also have things called bike trainers that turn your regular bicycle into a stationary bike. Or foldable stationary bikes would be another option if you have room in a closet.

I've got a trainer and I'm trying to build endurance so I can bike to work this spring. Work is 10 miles away.

I'm targeting a cadence of 90ish, and 20 miles in one sitting. I'm trying to add a few minutes to each training session.

My question, what is the approximate ratio of training miles to road miles? Is 20 training miles enough to be able to get to work and back?

Also, right now my training plan is "keep peddling until exhausted". What are some better training tactics?

For battery tail light I'm a big fan of the Planet Bike's Turbo flasher. It is incredibly bright and the pattern reminds me of a aviation strobes.

https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Superflash-Turbo-Light/dp/B004U5PV5A?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffab-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B004U5PV5A

Before I switched to dynamo I could make it six months between battery changes.

yea, for my back light on the fuji (since its a beefy ass seat tube and cant put any lights on it at all) i put the mount for the light on the back tube that goes from the seatpost to dropouts (hope this makes sense idk the word for that particular tube). My particular light is this, shit you not the brightest rear light ever and the blinking is a weird oscillation so it catches drivers eyes better

ill take a picture on my phone and post it super quick

I use the Planet Bike Blinky Superflash. It is so bright that in blink mode it is actually sort of annoying, so I put it in steady and have another less bright one that blinks. I use rechargeable NiMh batteries in all my lights.

Täältä toinen takavalosuositus, käytössä viidettä vuotta (käytännössä pimeänä vuodenaikana, pyöräilen vuoden ympäri) ja hyvin on pelittänyt. Etuvalo on mallia "itse näyn muille", koska ajelen kaupunki/taajama-alueella, missä on aina sen verran valoa, ettei tehokkaammalle ole tarvetta.

Planet Bike Blinky Superflash Turbo 1W Tail Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U5PV5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_RtsRwbS5J40SZ

I have a similar light and it has a clamp and it detaches, I've clipped it to the bag for several years with no problem.

I use it for the blinker. People have said it's highly visible.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U5PV5A/

hey i'm buying these for my single speed bike


now i was wonder would these cables work with them?

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

Nevermind, seems I was mistaken. $28USD for a mechanical brake and shifter cable set on Amazon. It'd be about $45 retail for a hydraulic brake hose and a shift cable set.

Since a bike shop buys this stuff wholesale they can easily afford to charge exactly retail or under for a service like this and still make a fair profit, so OP is either being upcharged in parts too if it's a mechanical brakeset, or were charged a reasonable price for hydraulic.

Same price on Amazon...

The Shimano M530 might be considered to be in this category. The spd mechanism does stick up a fair bit though.

I have these shoes with these pedals.

Excellent traction while walking and the pedals are great for the price. I also ride a fair amount of road and have no complaints so far.

Dual-sided pedals with toe cages on one side usually have toothy flats or SPD on the other. SPD pedals will have small jaws that face and resemble each other--see the pedal at this link for an example. It's hard to recommend shoes (as fit and feel is a matter of subjective experience) so I recommend visiting your LBS and trying some on, or ordering a few different types from a seller who offers free return shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052XXW32/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_JUNiDbKB8SBJG

These are what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-149319-PD-M530-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B0052XXW32/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1550375886&sr=1-1&keywords=pd-m530

I got them for the same reason, that I thought I might want to ride without clipping in from time to time. However, I always clip in and never ride the flat sides. If I were buying today, I would buy something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-PD-M520L-Clipless-Bike-Pedals/dp/B000KC3Y0G/ref=sr_1_8?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1550375990&sr=1-8&keywords=spd+pedals

guess it's this one? Still 1.1kg and quite small? However, seess like the best one so far...

Rev $1600

Helmet - $42
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0091PBOL4?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

Phone mount - $17.00
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078L18FTZ?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

Pump - $28.50
https://www.amazon.com/BV-Ergonomic-Automatically-Reversible-Schrader/dp/B0085OUN1O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=bv+bike+pump&qid=1566320951&s=gateway&sprefix=bv+bike+&sr=8-3

Lock - $50
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XZT8KZ1?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

This is turning into some real money for something I really don’t need.

The spam filter removed your post because it thinks your Amazon url's are affiliate links. If you shorten them like below, Reddit won't filter them out.

• http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Pocket-Rocket-Master-Blaster/dp/B000FI6XGC
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Resettable-Combination-Magnum/dp/B000WEIIQC
  
• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YPK9C0
  
  You can also remove the human readable part and just make them /dp/CODEVALUE and they will work.

WellGo MG1

Just over your price limit, but it's worth it for magnesium (light) and removable/replaceable pins (they grip way better than molded ones, and you can replace them when they wear down). Fits any Hold Fast-style straps.

I would avoid riding at dark but I could see myself doing it a few times a month.

Basically this MEC helmet should keep me safe ? https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5057-509/Skyway-Cycling-Helmet

Will probably go for a lock like this : Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7 Heavy Duty Bicycle U Lock with 4' KryptoFlex Double Loop Bike Cable https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XZT8KZ1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XHjyDbWH7ECF7

Should be good?

I thankfully already have a bell so don’t have to buy one of those. Also got myself a mini tire pump.

I'm heavily considering one now, they aren't stupidly expensive anymore and my Kryptonite Mini is jammed up to the point where I need five minutes to unlock it each time before I hit the magic spot.

I personally grabbed an ES2 and then got a used battery kit for $75 from eBay (I mostly care about the torque, not the range; but the battery I got ended up being in good condition)

I use this lock: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZT8KZ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm moving to Waterloo though, and will be close to a University. I was thinking maybe this: https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Evolution-Mini-7-Bicycle-KryptoFlex/dp/B06XZT8KZ1

"ANTI THEFT PROTECTION
BICYCLE $2,500 USD"

When possible, I prefer pedals with reflectors. My road bike has clipless pedals, so I put retroreflective tape on my shoes. But on my other bike, I use these pedals: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7UZ5OK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My bikes are in my front hall. The number of bikes i hear of stolen off peoples porches, basements, yard, etc, makes me feel like this is the only safe place.

I have this, am I good? https://smile.amazon.com/Kryptonite-2079-Evolution-Bicycle-KryptoFlex/dp/B06XZT8KZ1

If you own a road or mountain bike buy a trainer for it like this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094KIVQW/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bEHPz_c_x_3_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=B30WV5BWVBKPJD7MN75B&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=e5bcb7eb-f56e-59a6-9593-82e699cde100&pf_rd_i=3403551

I own a different model than this but either lets you leverage your existing ride.

How do I fit both my Nite Ize Handleband phone mount and my cheap bike light on my drop bars? The light can't go past the bar tape, so it's too close to the stem. When I mount the phone mount on my stem, my phone will hit the light.

EDIT: I ended up putting the phone mount on the top bar.

A roller seems a bit scary to try hehe, I'll probably go check if there are spinning classes at the gym.

and about a rear weel trainer would something like this do well?

Thanks guys!

So I've looked at rollers... look fun but don't think I'm there yet lol The two trainers I'm looking at are the conquer and the [travel trac] (http://www.performancebike.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product2_10052_10551_1111867_-1) (Thanks for suggesting performance bike, u/Xanatos24). Travel trac is more expensive as a base, and I'd have to buy the front tire stand unlike with the conquer. Plus a mat, indoor tires, and maybe a little fan. I've also heard of ways to connect to Zwift without a smart trainer, like with an ANT+?

Is the higher price worth it?

I'm cheap, but I just ordered these for myself. I had them a while back but lost them in a move over the summer and haven't needed them yet this year.

Just a front and back lights. Something like

http://www.amazon.com/BV-Bicycle-Headlight-Taillight-Quick-Release/dp/B00A6TBITM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380767085&sr=8-1&keywords=bike+lights

or

http://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Head-Light-Combo-Black/dp/B0041D5ACA/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1380767085&sr=8-15&keywords=bike+lights

edit: Second one is probably too expensive, but just something cheap and cheerful like that

Is this sufficient? https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00A6TBITM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6TBITM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its this one

Ok awesome ill keep that in mind thanks. Have any recommendations for a trainer? It gets snowy and cold where I live and won't always be able to ride outside? I was looking at this one. Also riding shorts any suggestions?

These things will pertain more to riding on trails, but you might want:

• gloves for the trails (not so much for the commuting)
  
  
• pedals (only if you have plastic pedals you might want to upgrade.) I recently did and i feel so much more comfortable with my new, large, grippy, Wellgo MG-1's
  
  
• new shoes if you don't want to mess up your current shoes on the pedals.

Try something like this indoor bike stand

If she has a bike that she likes to use (or you do) get one of these They're awesome and you can hangout at home on your actual bike, watching TV or something. Or pop in one of these

Congrats! Wonderful bike, I have this exact bike. I highly recommend getting these pedals because the stock pedals are hard plastic that are like butter when they get wet. Also if you plan on hitting rock gardens and/dirt jumps, I would highly recommend getting this rear derailleur. I found out the hard way when I hit a jump and my chain slapped, thankfully I did not wipe out. ALSO convert to tubeless! I haven't yet, but I am planning to in the near future.

Most important part, ENJOY THE BIKE AND RIDE RIDE RIDE!!

https://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-MG-1-Magnesium-Platform-16-Inch/dp/B00E7UZ5OK/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1500155779&sr=1-1&keywords=wellgo%2Bpedals&th=1&psc=1

these are actually solid and because of magnesium they are the lightest cheap metal pedal you will find (aside from the nylon/plastic crap)

Yeah, basically always lock your back wheel and frame with a U-lock to a sturdy, stationary object (There are plenty of bike parking racks. NEVER lock your bike to just itself or another bike). That's bare minimum. That's usually sufficient if you're going to just be in class for an hour or two.

In Davis, cable locks are just a visual deterrent. They're essentially useless, especially if you have a nice bike.

If you have quick-release, either swap them out for regular wheels or be very vigilant about locking both wheels with U-locks.

If you have a nice bike, never park it outside at night on campus. Also, try not to leave your bike outside if you're going to be away (going home for the weekend, winter break, etc.). There are people who go hunting for bikes and bike parts at night and especially during breaks when nobody is around.

It's also a good idea to take a short chain/cable and thread it through your frame and bike seat, just so that's secure too.

Contrary to popular belief, bigger is not better when it comes to U-locks. You want the thickest, fattest, smallest U-lock possible that fits your bike. For example, this mini U-lock would probably do better than this standard U-lock. The idea is, the longer the U-lock, the more space it gives thieves to use for leverage to pry open your lock. I'm not sure if you buy into that, but mechanically it makes sense, and the smaller ones also happen to be cheaper too. Some of my friends with really nice bikes (think $500+) have two small, fat U-locks and they do their job well.

I've also heard that you do want two different types of locks (U-lock and a thick cable, for instance), because that means thieves have to carry two different tools to break the two different locks. This is up to you, and I still think two U-locks are fine.

You can call any bike shop and they'll help! It's worth a try at least. Good luck!

> secure your bike properly, because it will get stolen

This. You'll also need to buy a real and good lock, I heard the most effective and cheapest are these kind of bike locks.

This is a pretty low price for the Kryptonite 2079 New-U Evolution Mini-7 Heavy Duty Bicycle U Lock w/ 4’ KryptoFlex Double Loop Bike Cable ($47.08)

You mean one of these cables? http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-720018210610-KryptoFlex-Double-Security/dp/B000NOO3ZQ

I'm really new to all this...

Im truly sorry for your loss however if you do findyour bike and i will look around when im there on campus you need to use a u lock and a secondary lock for your front wheel something like this or utilize the sheldon brown locking method again im sorry this happened but hopefully you can prevent this from ever happening again make sure you contact campus police the actual police and keep checking all the popular bike racks at fiu generally bike thievery is a crime of convenience and you need to make your bike look more defended than the rest so they will steal the poorly locked ones instead of yours

I would upgrade to Shorty side pulls and these pads http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1374713430&sr=8-7&keywords=bicycle+brake+pads

You need something like a crank puller such as

(assuming its a square taper or similar)

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Puller-Square-Cranks/dp/B001VS1M20/

to remove the old crank. Depending on the prices of your local bike shop, its probably cheaper to buy the tool and DIY.

It should be a fairly straight forward job, assuming that you are fairly handy. The key thing to look out for is making sure you put the cranks on tight enough, but not overly so that it cracks the crank. Then there are some other minor adjustments that you might need to make. E.g the front derailluer/shift probably need to be adjusted, it might be as simple as to playing around with the cable and limiting screws, or you might need to adjust the height of the derailleur.

If you are new at this, you probably need to spend a good afternoon to swap it over.

So it depends on $$$$ vs time.

Kinda spendy at $75. I've been using the $30 Planet Bike Superflash Turbo for a few years now. Runs on AAA batteries.

Like most places in NYC, they are not 'cheap,' but they are not really 'expensive.'

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Cable-Housing-Universal/dp/B0050LUBZ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501542680&sr=8-2&keywords=brake+cables

You were charged about twice the value of the cables.

2 locks is all well and good, but very often overkill. Use non-quick release wheels and seat (just carry a wrench), then use small, tough u-lock like this one

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch-5-5-Inch/dp/B005YPK9C0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406144900&sr=8-4&keywords=kryptonite+u+lock

lock it through the back wheel, you dont need to actually lock the frame, as long as the back wheel is secured through the rear triangle of the frame. Cutting a wheel rim is impractical.

This one works pretty well for the back wheel and is really convenient.

http://www.amazon.com/X-Tra-Rear-Bicycle-Fender-wheels/dp/B000X61N2A/#

I figured as much, just wanted to highlight that "military grade" is more of a marketing gimmick than an actual indicator of quality. /u/JustTehFactsJack posted a good looking guide though for lock recommendations

Specifically mentions "military grade": https://www.amazon.com/Lumintrail-Combination-Illumination-Components-Resistant/dp/B01BZC4QHE

No mention of "military grade": https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZT8KZ1

​

Edit: Ok then, buy your "military grade" locks if you want ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

> never lock your bike outside unless you check every 5 mins or use divvy.

This is complete nonsense. I've locked all 4 of my bikes up across the city in various places over night and not had so much as a strapped on light stolen.

I use a single Kryptonite Evolution lock through the bike rack - front wheel and frame - and then a cable that goes through the rear wheel/ frame and into the bike lock:

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-11-5-Inch/dp/B005YPK9N4/ref=sr_1_39?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1406032049&sr=1-39

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-720018210610-KryptoFlex-Double-Security/dp/B000NOO3ZQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1406031935&sr=8-6&keywords=kryptonite+bike+lock

I've left my bike in some of the 'roughest' (as it concerns to bike thefts) parts of town with nothing missing or damaged.

KHS Flite 100


Trek 3700

Fuji Cross 2.0

Fuji Roubaix 1.0


I see tons of stories that 'oh it was locked up' or 'I had a u-lock' but many times it was locked with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/U-Bike-Lock-with-Keys/dp/B00IA6OQ3I/ref=sr_1_4?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1406032225&sr=1-4&keywords=ulock

That you can practically twist off if you pull hard enough. Heck - I've helped someone remove a rusted u-lock off of their bike by simply spraying it with liquid wrench and prying it off with a pair of channel lock pliers.

A bike is an investment - protect it with quality products. I'm not saying this will stop every bike theft in the city - but the harder you make it for them (bike thieves know which locks are easy to defeat and which are a pain) the safer your bike is.

There are absolutely locks which realistically cannot be cut with any remotely portable equipment

Edit: as requested, these are the two I use:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001JPS200

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XCMWW9H