(Part 2) Best wire cutters according to redditors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GR7QF63/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I mean I still ordered it since it had decent reviews lol.

1- a pair of nippers! http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175-Maxi-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBU0YC/ref=pd_sim_328_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31worx20hHL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1NM0NMHRY8GXVMGXPBJH You can get a good pair for 15 bucks off amazon, but chances are you might have some around the house from a tool kit, I actually use some old bigger ones, and they work just fine. Here they are: http://puu.sh/oYkry/e4484c7ddc.jpg This is to get the parts off the runners (the frames the parts go on) you CAN use a knife but you may damage the part.

2. Something to get the nubs off, either a hobby knife (you can find some for 5 bucks) or some very light grade sanding paper (but your fingernails can suffice for some)

That's it. That's all you really need to put one together, honestly. Remember to take ur time and look at the instructions carefully, the 1/100 IBO kits are great from what i hear and you got one of the coolest ones. :D IF you want to add further detail to the thing, you can look up panel lining, but i dont think it's necessary for the 1/100 IBO kits.

What you need is a flush cutter, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/IGAN-330-Electronic-Clippers-Powerful-Precision/dp/B07RW8VTSX/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=flush+cutter&qid=1562082883&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Since you’re asking about knives I definitely recommend just about any knife Spyderco makes and they really are the best at serrations.

BUT to cut through plastic straps, the best tool you can possibly have is this tool. It’s small and cheap and slips into just about any pocket. Also great for cutting and stripping wire. I frequently have to cut thru thick 24” zip ties and this really The best tool for the job.

Edit: trying to sort out the hyperlink

Get some essential tools: those wire cutty clipper things (for cutting support structures off your prints) and a painter's scalpel for peeling prints off the heatbed.

Consider getting the upgrade kit for the ender 3 pro sometime; the flexible removable heatbed is a HUGE convenience for getting prints off and cleaning the heatbed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072WS3M9H

This angle bend is EXTREMELY helpful. You don't have to get this specific product, but trust me that you want a tool like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A81FXMK

The scalpel I bought isn't for sale anymore but this one looks good enough.

It looks like there is enough screw sticking out to grab with Vise-grips. Note, they have to be vise-grips, not some other brand of locking pliers. Only the vise grips have sufficiently hard steel in the jaws to grip a screw like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-8-Inch-Capacity-5-Inch-Locking/dp/B00002N6RL

Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0768SB2SP/

Hi, I actually had the exact same dilemma as you and about a month ago went for a 2.0 setup.

In the past I've tried a variety of computer speakers and nothing cut it. I never tried a soundbar, but I am super happy with my 2.0 setup.

So here is my $200 set up (big thanks to Zeos for helping me learn and pick out the parts):

$109 manufacturer refurbished Denon AVR 1513 receiver:

http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavr1513/denon-avr-1513-5.1ch-home-theater-receiver-3d-ready/1.html?_escaped_fragment_=specifications#!specifications

$80 Micca MB42x bookshelf speakers:

http://amzn.to/188rnsc

$9.43 Speaker wire:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YEA53M3RQ14Z&coliid=I31E8R7IOVMB4E

This is the wire stripper I bought but it is no longer available for prime so I would get a different one:

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-2078305-Vise-Grip-5-Inch-Stripper/dp/B000JNLUQ6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1394413512&sr=8-13&keywords=wire+stripper

Maybe get this one (but any will probably be fine):

http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-GS-40-Milwaukee-Clipper-Stripper/dp/B00004WLJX/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1396936022&sr=1-11&keywords=wire+stripper

Lastly, banana plugs for the wires. Optional, but nice to have ($10.96):

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-High-Quality-Copper-Speaker/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394413889&sr=8-2&keywords=banana+plug

Total: ~ $250 with tax and shipping and whatnot.

One last piece of advice:

I originally tried the popular Lepai amp and hated it. I just couldn't get the volume I wanted from it.

Get yourself some linemen snips.
https://www.amazon.com/Jonard-JIC-186-Kevlar-Ergonomic-Cutter/dp/B006962C9G

If you want to do it yourself, you'll need new cables, allen wrenches, and a cable cutter. Park Tool is a great site for repair help, you'll want to take a look at these pages. It's probably cheaper and easier to just take it to the shop, though.

Wow thanks for such a thorough response!!!

1. yeah I figured as much, I'm thinking i'll start with Corded Hitachi , or Corded Ryobi and then if it ever breaks or if I need a cordless I'll upgrade down the line.
   
2. True, Likely worth the upgrade. Do you think I should focus on Titanium over Black Oxide? or is a reputable brand the main concern?
   
3. Thanks for the insight!
   
4. Solder , Gotcha Yeah i'll try to see if I can find anything like this locally (smaller quantity preferably)
   
5. Stahl Soldering Gun , I'm thinking this one which was linked elsewhere in this thread.
   
   6/9/10 - I think they were written into the manual as different ways in which to attach the crossover board to the bottom of the box. how do you normally attach it to the bottom of the box?
   
   I'm considering Crossover Board , just to help with organization, however i'd still need to attach it to the bottom of the box.
   
   ​
   
   I just realized I forgot speaker wire for the internals, does it matter a lot which gauge? any general guidance.
   
   ​
   
   I would really like to complete the outside of the boxes , as i may end up giving them away as a gift eventually. wondering if i'll need a Sander , if i plan on doing vinyl or some sort of wrap? I'm not against painting, just against spray painting.
   
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   Also forgot Snips

Get a set of side nippers.

People who make models use these to cut the parts off the sprue. Your local hobby shop likely has these, but at twice the price. (In case you are in a hurry.)

I used to just coil the copper around a knitting needle or metal rod that I had measured to give me the correct ID for the rings. Since they didn't compress like dowels they were pretty reliable and reusable. Once I'd filled the rod I would slide it off and just use flush cut metal cutters (cost me like $4) to cut them by hand. Once you've practiced it a bit it's a pretty quick process and gives you almost no kerf because you're cutting exactly on the line for the gap. I had good luck with it for smaller gauge stuff. Cutting higher gauge is gonna kill your hands, but copper and reasonable sizes was nothing. So that might be an option for you.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/IGAN-330-Electronic-Clippers-Powerful-Precision/dp/B07RW8VTSX

I don't know that specific one (I got mine at harbor freight for super cheap) but that style.

If you want to buy precut rings, I really like RingLord. Good quality, fast shipping, reasonable prices, lots of selection, and been doing it a while.

https://theringlord.com

The ones you need are now called side cutters. Look for the kind that are used for electronics and/or jewelry. They're about 4" from point to end of the handles. example on Amazon

Once you get part cut, use needle nose pliers to grab it and unwind it. Don't try to use your fingers, the ends of guitar wire is really sharp.

KD was my first time assembling minis. I definitely had some trepidation over the whole thing, but really it's not bad.

Now, I admit, I had some guidance from a coworker, but I'll pass all that guidance onto you right now. All you need are the following three items:

• Plastic cement. This stuff is great, and is the best thing to use for plastic models (even Adam recommends it--even this brand specifically, I believe). It actually melts the plastic together to create the bond. Now, this may sound scary, but the great thing about it is it doesn't act as fast as super glue, which means you have time to play with the join to get it just right (while it still dries fast enough to be convenient). Just be careful to not get it on your fingers while holding a join, or you may leave fingerprints (a little goes a long way, and this isn't hard to avoid).
  
• A flush cutter. That's the one I use and it works great. You'll use this to snip the individual pieces from the sprue (that's what the sheets of plastic that you get are called. A sprue represents what comes from a single mold, and has many pieces attached to it, which you will need to snip free to assemble). It's super easy--just take your time to make sure you don't cut off more than you need to. Many pieces come with extra plastic to assist with the join (kinda like puzzle pieces--they fit together, you just still need to glue them).
  
  
• A standard Xacto knife. I won't link this, cause honestly any will do. You'll use this to clean up your pieces. Primarily you'll probably use it to deal with the excess plastic left from where the two halves of the mold joined (also known as "flash"). I generally like gently scraping this away with the back side of the Xacto knife, almost like I'm sanding it. You can also use this to cut off any excess, if you don't get a joint snipped off quite clean with the flush cutters (better to cut off too little with those than too much!).
  
  Basically, the key once you have these tools is to take your time. Consult a guide like vibrantlantern.com, which another poster mentioned, and which was an invaluable resource to me.
  
  A mini takes me anywhere from an hour (really complex monster), to 20 minutes, generally. They can go much faster once you get the system down, but I like taking time to figure out exactly what the mini should look like (for the armor kits).
  
  Throw on some music, or Netflix (or whatever helps you pass the time without distracting you too much), maybe grab a beer, and make an evening of it.
  
  It's also worth noting that all you need to start playing is the White Lion, and the four Starting Survivors. These all come on a single sprue, and are really quite simple to assemble given the above directions and tools. That will get you through several hours of gameplay just by itself, and then from there you can move on to creating other monsters and survivors as you need or want them.
  
  Hope this helps!

Amazon sells pairs of ratcheting cutters that seem great in my opinion the only problem being that they need to be sharpened but for 30 bucks I love them. So far I cant complain liked them so much I bought a second pair for the other truck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LBK0W74/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/TMS-Aluminum-Copper-Ratchet-Ratcheting/dp/B00LBK0W74 ?

I ended up buying a pair of these scissors for my tailor for hemming/tapering. Apparently, he said it was still tough to cut through the dyneema.

Knipex for Lineman's pliers: (with or without crimper). Their grip and cutting edge are significantly better than any other brand I've tried.

Wera for screwdrivers: I recommend the XXL 3 set. For sale here.

I still like Klein for strippers. I use the Kurve everyday and the Katapult for wire with thick insulation like PV wire.

Fluke for your meter. Most people recommend the T5 for basic stuff, but the 323 has a proper clamp and removable leads for the same price.

Knipex Cobras for your channel lock style pliers. These are absurdly good and have saved my ass a couple times.

I also recommend buying a Knipex Pliers Wrench. I own a 7-inch and a 10-inch pair and they're way better than a traditional adjustable wrench.

Stanley newest Leverlock tape measures are just as good as Milwaukee's tape and less bulky for half the price.

Milwaukee's Fastback series are the best utility knives by a pretty wide margin. I use the compact one, but that's a matter a preference.

I think this is actually the Vise-Grips Locking Wrench Catch of the Day, not Friction Gloves.

This has happened to me. You can’t pull the cord down to expose the copper. And you can’t just cut the paracording as it’s just too much. Here’s my advice. Get some crafting shears (I usethe Plato model 170 shears) and start from the top. Just clip, and pull. Start to cut the cord in half. It’s gonna be worth it because as you grow your collection of parts you’re gonna need cables and boards. They’re the most important supplies. Even if you gotta cut it all the way down you can still salvage the cord. Now everyone will tell you you dont need the copper. I like to keep it just as an integrity thing but a lot of people just scrap it. As I have no personal proof if it works or doesn’t work I just keep it to stay as close to the OEM cable as possible. Cut the cord down until you pass the problematic areas and then you can scrap the copper. I didn’t know to cut the cord like this and I lost my first cable and paracord. Eventually you’ll get your stride though.

For the MC strippers, those are dikes. Which definitely work but some contractors won't let you use them because it can damage the wire if you don't know how.

They might want something this:

Flush cutters. This pair and this pair are the industry standard workhorse. Absolutely essential tools.

PanaVise clamps are a must have. This one and this one are my favorites.

A manually operated solder sucker will be an important buy as well.

https://www.amazon.com/SwissGear%C2%AE-Maxxum-Double-Zipper-Backpack/dp/B019ZXHJQ0/ I am on my third one after 13 years. First two were because I left jobs. I am about ready for a new one at this job. Goes from dairy, to wastewater plant, to substation, to manufacturing floor and back again. I carry a ton of crap.. and probably a few biological critters from place to place. It holds, typically 2 laptops, 5 port switch, cable bag, a few mikrotik routers, tools (best dewalt screwdriver set https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DWHT66417-VINYL-INSULATED-SCREWDRIVER/dp/B006FSCJWS and wiha tweekers https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26197-Precision-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B01L46TEN2 , small ratchet set, Klein 10n1, Flush cuts which are the most useful tool for panels. https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Stand-off-Hardened-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B01MFZYNRS ), Fluke 789, Signal generator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015AX89XQ, two large laptop power bricks and lots of Ethernet /serial cables. Typically weights in at 45-55lbs. This bag has the best thing for that weight that most of the Swiss gear bags don't have. A chest strap. It forces the weight rest on the body and not just the shoulders. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1O312xhEvL._AC_SL1500_.jpg if you carry a lot a gear, check this bag out.

Something like these might work. They're fairly light, locking (which is totally useful) and are "just pliers".

(With that said, I carry a multitool in lieu of the pliers now :))

Insulated solid core AWG24 hookup wire. This lets me make jumpers that cross each other, or that cross other components, with no fear of shorts. Purchase a self-adjusting wire stripper tool and life is easy.

• example 1
  
  
• example 2
  
  
• example 3
  
  
• example 4

All the cat5 cables ive seen have 4 pairs; blue, brown, green and orange/red and a striped counterpart. In the image posted it looks like the colors are still there, they just went with different patterns and shades.

So im seeing the orange one come out of the wall, and it LOOKS like its going into the third block from the left, but i notice its actually connected to the second from the left, so its matched with the solid orange. The fourth from the left appears to be the solid greens, as i can also see the third block contains the striped greens (as well as some of the leftover from the wall cable). And of course the far right block houses the orange striped wires. So it looks like someone was bridging the orange and green pairs, but the green striped line is broken or cut on purpose.

So like i said before if it was coming from the phone line we would only need 2 to get data to the modem, but as this is coming from a router, itll need most, if not all, of the 8 wires connected. There is a guide to wiring all this up and it goes by color of the wires, but thats just a guide and may not always be the case in how it was actually wired up.

This is how a standard ethernet cable is hooked up

Also cat 5e is just a cat5 cable that can handle more data and is better shielded so thats a non issue.

So long story short, its looks like all of them need to be hooked back up. All the suggestion in my first post should still be valid and if i were doing it i would probably run a whole new cat5 cable from the router to the pc. Failing being able to do that, i would trim up the cables in your pic, crimp new heads on following the diagram color chart, and patch them together with a female-to-female rj45 patch socket. Failing ability to do that, i would solder each wire to the other and shrink tube the joint. And lastly i would resort to twisting them together with electrical tape, or using a wire block like in your pic to join them and throw the whole thing in an enclosure like a plastic bag or something lol. Basically anything to get those wires touching and not falling apart will net some degree of success.

You'll need:

Edge trimmers

Cat5 head crimper

F2F rj45 coupler

Cat5 heads

Something similar to this 8 wire bus bar will work, but smaller would be better

And thats about it, depending on how you decide to go about the repair. Also no problem at all. shoot me another message if anything else pops up and ill help however i can.

You want some flush cut diagonal cutters
I like the: PLATO 170 SHEAR CUTTER, Amazon

What you could do, is buy some batteries at IMR
Use code CUTITOUT
and get a free plato cutter (or its five bucks)
https://www.imrbatteries.com/plato-wire-cutter-shears-pliers/

And ya battlestar is solid mod.

I have a leather punch that I'll use to pop a hole in a velcro strip, then it goes onto the backboard w/ a screw and a washer.
[Addendum] I do always have a pair of flush-cutters in my backpack or toolbox to clip cable ties, though. 'Cuz honestly I do still use cable ties a lot.
Ref: https://www.amazon.com/PLATO-170-SHEAR-CUTTER-piece/dp/B000AS3BLM/

I’m surprised you don’t have an armored cable cutter yet.

armored cable cutter, Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N2JVKE2/

Something like these should work

Thank you for the input! I may go with the more expensive Japanese tools as I am earning an extra $300 these two weeks and would like to keep the same tools for a while. What tools should I get so that shears, concave cutters, and wire cutters are all under $100, but still quality?

I just found a pair of basic home depot small wire cutters, do you think they will work? They look like this

Here's my suggestion:

• Hakko FX888D Soldering Station
  
  
• Hakko CHP-170 Micro Soft Wire Cutter
  
  
• MG Chemicals 63/37 No Clean Leaded Solder
  
  
• MG Chemicals No Clean Super Wick Desoldering Braid
  
  How to use it and getting your soldering technique right:
  
  
• EEVblog #180 - Soldering Tutorial Part 1 - Tools
  
  
• EEVblog #183 - Soldering Tutorial Part 2

If you want the real deal, they are Xuron 170-II micro-shear flush cutters.

I use these as well as and the larger 2175 set for bigger things. Note - these are only good for soft metals (copper, tin, lead) not steel. My son was nice enough to make one pair a set of wire strippers when he tried to cut some steel wire once. :-(

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Hobby-Model-Holder/dp/B004KNHGP0

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This painting stand is super handy and not very expensive.

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https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-167110-1001-Heavy-Craft-Knife/dp/B001A42CTW

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This is my all time favorite knife. Heavy and has a great feel. I bought a half dozen for my department at work.

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https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B00VRTM8XU/ref=asc_df_B00VRTM8XU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167125073467&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=188162906493521005&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9024238&hvtargid=pla-310095161468&psc=1

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Xuron Micro-Shears for sprue cutting.

You can get tools to specifically cut cable sheathing. If it happens to fit one of the sizes in the tool below.

https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Stripper-Stripping-Multitool-Telephone/dp/B07NGQ6N82/ref=mp_s_a_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1550157523&sr=8-25&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cable+sheath+cutter




The more versatile option is the cheap wire strippers with an adjustable stop. I used them a ton when I was a kid. My dad loved them for some reason.

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Stripper-Cutter-2078305/dp/B000JNLUQ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1550157593&sr=8-25&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Wire+stripper

What tools and supplies do I need if i want to shorten the modular cables on my power supply? I already have this wire cutter/stripper but I believe I need new ATX terminal pins and maybe something to take the current pins out? Not sure if I need a crimper.

$65 - not too much

the gerber groundbreaker might be what your looking for.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gerber-Blades-Groundbreaker-electricians-tl/dp/B006VEEHAI

get the milwaukee fastback. Its the best util knife i've ever used. It can open or close easily with a wrist flick, yet i've NEVER had it open accidentally. I even used it to cut sod (through wet grass and dirt) and it didn't gum up. I've had a couple break just doing that. The old school kind would get full of crap and stop opening after that. Every other flip open kind would lose their blades. I had a husky brand one that fell apart in my pocket. Look at its reviews on homedepots site. Or read this review

I don't have any exp. with the knife you linked, but it looks too gimmicky for me. If I was to get something like that, I'd get the gerber groundbreaker but it has many more tools I would be able to use.

If you JUST want a util knife, but also want a long blade, i'd get an olfa 25mm knife as it has replaceable utility blades that can extend pretty far. The only thing I don't like about them is when fully extended, they obviously snap easily and the screw blade lock is slow.

Edit: you can get solid (non-snap) blades for them, I never have - and assume they would be more durable.

This is a great point for anyone else following this thread. I paid considerably more - but well worth having around for any standing rigging work that may come up in the future.

Chain mail and some other metal work. Welded a tree out of scraps in the shop recently, but this is what I'm proudest of so far. I started doing this at a call center job, making the rings from scratch and just playing around until it looks like I wanted.
these would help me make some really nice jewelry.
these would help me keep making sturdier things like gauntlets and other armor.
these would help keep my hand intact for other things Ill be welding.

I'll be replacing the brake and shifters on my bike soon along with the cables. Do I need to buy a cable cutter like this one to be able to do this properly, or will a simple pair of wire snips do the job?

These aren’t Klein but I found a pair somewhere and they became my favorite goto strippers for quick small gauge wire... they will do 14-16 if you put some effort in it but super quick for smaller gauge.

DA76070 KLENK Two in One Wire Cutter and Stripper-Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007ZKMU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_GEKFAbDEM1N8P