Needs a 90 degree plug or a clock outlet.

Why in Sam's hell would you link to an image when linking to the product would be easier for interested/potential customers:

• http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7745W-BOX-Combination/dp/B00B1GHC58/
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7740W-K-Combination/dp/B007NC5GI4

Lockable outlets would be a good idea. They are pretty cheap and come in different styles. I'd recommend something like this which is pretty much an outdoor waterproof cover. Easy to lock with any kind of lock you might already have.

You can buy them online. You'd just have to install it.

Part of the point I am making is that it is UL listed, would be able to be installed commercially and by an electrician in new residential construction. Its not a Chinese piece of crap like all that stuff on ebay. Not all usb chargers can be taken equally either. You get what you pay for and a $10 usb wall plate charger is going to probably have pretty bad voltage ripple and the other problems that make crappy chargers crappy. If a client came to me and said I want usb ports in the wall this is what I would spec and I could sleep soundly at night knowing its not going to ruin his iPhone or burn his house down.

EDIT: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5630-W-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle-125-Volt/dp/B008O11IEY/ref=pd_sim_hi_10 heres a cheaper one too. Its pretty obvious its that expensive because they had to fit that transformer and everything for the USB in a decorator outlet and still retain the duplex plug.

Or you can just take a rheostat or dimmer switch or whatever and and mount it in a wallbox inline with the AC and badabing badaboom your twenty dollar weller just got a whole lot fancier. The just use a thermocouple and sharpy to mark various temps around the dial.

You should check out an Ottlite! I have this one, but the button broke over time so I had to buy one of these to switch it on and off. The light matches daylight, so it works really well when I apply my makeup before the sun is up.

ABSOLUTELY NOT. DO NOT DO THIS.

You are talking about making a suicide cord. I repeat: DO. NOT. DO. THIS.

Your best bet is to simply tap the circuit that feeds the light, and run Romex to a new receptacle. If you MUST feed from a live outlet with an extension cord, use the appropriate power inlet receptacle.

An outlet cover https://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Outlet-Cover-Shortener/dp/B000HKVG9C

These are even nicer. You don't have to use a power brick, it just replaces the existing outlet.

Use any vac you want with this puppy: Automated Vacuum Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YGLZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tTGqDbRH438DS

Looks a lot like this Meross plug I wonder if its the same manufacturer but slapping a Wyze logo on it.

Came here to say this. I opted to install one with a pair of USB ports replacing one of the 3-prong receptacles, rather than the more common models with USB ports flanking the usual pair of receptacles (non-referral links to random products for reference). That way I know for certain I can plug in one "regular" thing (a wall wart for a cordless house phone in this case) and a pair of USB cords.

You got it my friend!

Shelving - $90

Shelf Cover - $30

Landscape Fabric - $33

Storage Totes (6 pack) - $50

Local Temp/Humidity Gauges (12 pack) - $23

Incubation Tote Filters - $10

Sterlite Medium Stacking Basket (6 pack) - $15

Humidifier - $26

Standard Fan - Already Owned

Sonoff R2 Wifi Switches (4 pack) - $23

Sonoff TH16 Sensor Switch - $20

1500W Immersion Heater - $45

Standard Cooler w/ Drain - Already Owned

In total, it was a $350 project that could definitely have been done for cheaper, but I wanted to design it in a way that made it as painless as possible to turn my cardboard into mushrooms.

Also, I have an old space heater/fan combo that I intend to use when the temperature starts to drop. I plan to automate it with one of the Sonoff Wifi switches and control it with the Sonoff temp sensor.

Wouldn't a locking outlet cover fix the issue?

https://www.amazon.com/Taymac-MX3200-Vertical-Weatherproof-Receptacle/dp/B001DKIH10

I know you already wired the plug, but if you had put in a recessed outlet you wouldn’t have this issue.


Leviton 689-W 15 Amp 1-Gang Recessed Duplex Receptacle, Residential Grade, with Screws Mounted to Housing, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012DKBL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OKvUBbDNX0NJH

Tan Tan plugs on Amazon. About $9 each, although there's a four-pack deal for $26 right now. I've used them for a year without a single problem. I currently have 11 of them, and recommend them without hesitation. You're insane if you toss away $22 on a single Wemo plug.

I have one of those by my chair in the living room.

I also recommend them for kitchen counters or wherever you rest your mobile devices.

Odd request but here you go:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015R9M2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1394316241&sr=8-3

It's really nice because it has a really shallow design so that it doesn't take much horizontal space

Just bought these when they were on sale for $3 and they worked great:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LGSBFNJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

See:

https://www.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/comments/dhtf5e/wifi_smart_plugs_with_energy_monitoring_16a_up_to/

Bonus pics, closer up. Can't wait to get this cleaned up and pretty!

TL;DR- This is not a fun process. It's very confusing and frustrating. Take breaks and relax. Sometimes you may get hung up on something simple that you'll figure out after walking away for a minute. Also, instructions on this are changing constantly so there is no real one guide that will explain it perfectly and specifically for your printer. You'll have to do some looking around, especially if you're not very experienced with this kind of thing.

Though... through enough blood, sweat, and tears (and a little bit of exaggeration), Octoprint with Klipper and BLtouch is finally installed on my CR-10S... with the capability to control it anywhere in the world. I gotta say, as frustrating as this whole experience was to setup. It's well worth it.

One thing worth noting for people who have never done anything like this and this is your first time, in my experience, there is no one YouTube video that will explain to you exactly how to do this. Firmware/Software is constantly being updated and there are slight changes here and there. Or, as descriptive as these may be, they may actually miss out on something unique to your printer. However, they do get the job done, for the most part.

My process for this started with following Chris's Basement- Octoprint in 5 min. But like I said... I had to learn the hard way that some things won't work. Discovered that Win32Disk Imager didn't actually work. It would bring the Raspberry Pi to an error screen. Formatted my SD card, and restarted the process except this time with Etcher. Worked great.

Next, I ultimately followed Kevin O'Connor's Klipper installation guide with Octoprint. This is a very good guide that is constantly updated, so it should be good to follow. However, there are a few steps that may seem a bit confusing, which is why I referred to another one of Chris's video, a guide on how to install Klipper with Octoprint installed. Chris did a wonderful job following Kevin's instructions and walking you through.. however, some steps like setting up the configuration file for your specific printer (which is very vague in Kevin's guide) is also a bit rushed in Chris's explanation. Chris does mention the command to display the list of pre-built printer profiles, "LS". Just doesn't explain how to take it and insert it into the config command that Kevin says in his. It is imperative that you delete the "example" portion within the command that Kevin gives and replace it with your printer in the "LS" listing. After what seemed like forever, I was able to figure that out by following this video, where he explains exactly that. So, that's all said and done. Octoprint with Klipper is set up.

I then wanted to make my printer controllable from anywhere in the world. This was also a bit of a task if you've never done anything like it. I followed, yet again, another one of Chris's videos which explains how to do this in depth. Mind you, depending on the kind of router you have can ultimately decide how difficult doing this will be. I have Frontier and it took a bit of time because the verbiage he used wasn't parallel with what Frontier had, so it took a bit of digging into my router's settings. However, it is now set up, and I can control it anywhere!

Now, this was a lengthy portion of this post because I struggled getting through this, when I had no experience with this kind of thing, and I'm sure several others do not either. Again, some of these steps will be different than mine because every printer is unique.

Lastly, I have BLtouch physically installed and the plugin enabled on my Octoprint, but I've yet to get it configured and useable. That's my next plan of attack.

And then after that... clean up this mess and print a container for the guts of what used to be my control box! If anyone has any good STLs to accommodate for all the guts in the control box and the extra parts required for this, it would be greatly appreciated!

For everyone who's willing to read this far. I do have some questions I would love help with...

• Is there any good how-to's that explain how to connect BLtouch with Octoprint/Klipper? I did buy the Pin 27 board to avoid having to pull pins out and reposition. Besides, I still wanted my main LCD screen to work. I had trouble finding any videos that explain exactly how to install the pin 27 board.
  
  
• I dug up an old Logitech web cam so that I didn't have to buy a camera for it. However, the feed rate of my camera is very slow. And I recall there being an option to increase the FPS for the camera. But how?
  
  
• Aside from the Octoprint server you can pull up on anything with internet access (computer, phone, tablet, etc.), is there any way to get some of the Octoprint apps such as OctoRemote or OctoAndroid to include the plugins you have, like Klipper? Or do they just operate off the base format of Octoprint.
  
  
• For the Octoprint page when pulled up on your phone with the "Touch" plugin enabled, is it possible to have the webcam on the same page as your controls so that when you command your printer to move an axis you can be on the same page to watch it instead of having to pull down the menu and open "webcam"?
  
  
• Lastly, is there any way to actually turn on/turn off your printer from anywhere? I imagine your Octoprint has to be constantly on for that to work.. but is there a better way? This guy explains how to do it by buying/making a relay that can be controlled with Octoprint. But can you get something that can turn on the Octoprint and your printer from your phone?
  Found my answer
  
  Thanks for everything guys, and hope you enjoy/find this useful in some form!

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Voltson-Outlet-Monitoring-Required/dp/B074GVPYPY/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1541070949&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=smart+plug

What happens is that you have an exposed electrical shock/short/fire hazard. As an alternative you could wire a short male cable to your workbench, or even install a power inlet: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Straight-Flanged-Receptacle/dp/B003ATXIBG

Install one of these bad boys on the outlet and get a padlock. Problem solved:D

I researched a few brands and found these work great with amazon alexa and the native app. The most important thing is that they are rated at least 15 amps so they can do a minor job or power your 1000watt hps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079KYHLDZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit: you can program the plug to go on and off too at specific times!

For the pump: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Submersible-Adjustable-Hydroponics/dp/B072LQXRN4/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=fountain+pump&qid=1571850572&s=hi&sr=1-4

I used this one

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS103P2-Required-Google-Assistant/dp/B07B8W2KHZ

You can control it remotely from your phone, setup schedules etc. Very useful.

You ONLY want power? If so then just put a blue box up and get a recessed outlet: LIKE THIS

I'm using this lamp cord with this grow light and these smart outlets for my monstera. Granted its a new addition so I dont have time to say if it works but I dont see why it wont. I have it around 2-3 feet above its upper most leaves and fashioned a shade out of black paper my wife had (its VERY bright). The outlets let me set a timer or turn it on and off remotely for whatever reason.

I would think using a Power Inlet Receptacle would make it legal.

Take a look at this, which is the one I have.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YGLZG/

You can use two separate circuits, so you have less likelihood of an overload.

I have the exact same Leviton USB outlet in our kitchen at home! Works great, and as other's have said, the H outlet supplies 2A so you can charge iPad's and larger devices. So much more convenient than having to use a wall wart and it took about 5 minutes to install.

Mine is installed on a GFCI-protected circuit and works fine, too - tripping the GFCI master outlet causes this one to go off as expected.

I got mine from Amazon for about $20: http://amzn.com/B008O11IEY?tag=amz-link-20

It's just bulbs that you can put into any lamps you already have.

If you can't afford a smart bulb kit, you can also get remote control outlet plugs like this https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B0087DAW46.
You can plug anything into them, and switch on and off with a small remote. I do this for stuff you can't put smart bulbs into, like outdoor Christmas lights and the fairy lights in my bedroom.

This what I bought.

Sonoff TH16 Wifi Temperature and Humidity Sensor Switch+Si7021 RF Controller for DIY Smart Home,Wireless Remote Control Home Appliances and Work with Amazon Alexa, 1 Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FSHKQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_nvToDb1DQBJFG

I thought it would just plug into the wall and work. It does not. I don’t know what other thing I need to order.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Voltson-Outlet-Monitoring-Required/dp/B074GVPYPY/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=smart+home+plug&qid=1563231003&s=gateway&sprefix=smart+home&sr=8-13

and yet he managed to link to the wrong ones... sigh

here ya go

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5630-W-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle-125-Volt/dp/B008O11IEY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1407751653&sr=8-5&keywords=2.1+amp+usb+outlet

You seem to assume other people have had little or no experience with consumer electronics and networking. Perhaps you should rethink that assumption.

19% of Wemo smartswitch purchasers on Amazon give it [one star] (https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Enabled-Google-Assistant-HomeKit/dp/B01NBI0A6R/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wemo&qid=1565543795&s=gateway&sr=8-3#customerReviews) - 1 out of 5 people. Kasa's [one star] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS103P2-Required-Google-Assistant/dp/B07B8W2KHZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=kasa&qid=1565542758&s=gateway&sr=8-3#customerReviews) are only 6% of reviewers. That is a major difference that's too big to be accounted for because some people are "vocal" about product problems.

Nor was it a "technical issue with something in the implementation on your premises." Nothing in any environment should be able to cause a Wemo switch to come on at random times each day without being programmed to do so. Nothing in the environment should be able to cause it to just lose it's ability to connect to the router until it's reset.

I've tried these switches in multiple homes, with multiple ISPs and multiple routers. Same flaky issues.

By contrast TP-Link switches in these same environments work perfectly. Wemo products are too unreliable to be sold as consumer devices.

The plugs I have were $10/each so I guess it's cheaper actually?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS103P2-Required-Google-Assistant/dp/B07B8W2KHZ/

If you wanna run bigger stuff off of them get the 15A ones though: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS105P3-Anywhere-Required-Assistant/dp/B07HGSRF1R/

I put one in my living room for the TV a few years ago. I'm pretty sure I put it in a standard box. Maybe more like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Midlite-MDT4642W-Single-Gang-Decor-Recessed/dp/B002XDQAA6/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C1HVSTSPE9PSYE5ZTKQE

They also sell outdoor ones: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B003ATXIBG/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C1HVSTSPE9PSYE5ZTKQE

Edit: oops, looks like u/cryo_burned beat me to it.

I'm not sure what kind of home automation you have in your house, so I'll just explain how I solved a similar, but not the same, problem via Apple Homekit. Then you can take the idea and transfer it to whatever automation system you have in your house. What's important is the idea, not the actually implementation. Also, what I'm going to explain is only applicable to #2, when the GFCI trips.

First. I bought a cheap electronic bird chirping ornament from EBay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xelectronic+bird+chirping+christmas+ornament.TRS0&_nkw=electronic+bird+chirping+christmas+ornament&_sacat=0 . I plugged this ornament into an iDevices Homekit switch: https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Switch-Energy-Monitoring-Required/dp/B00U31IO3Q/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510555381&sr=8-1-fkmr0&ppw=fresh&keywords=idevices+indoor+switch . The switch is usually in the off setting.

Then I bought an iDevices outdoor switch: https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Outdoor-Switch-Monitoring-Required/dp/B019IJNKCS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510555465&sr=8-4&keywords=idevices+outdoor+switch and plugged the device I wanted to monitor into this outdoor switch.

I wrote a Apple Homekit trigger that turns on the bird chirp Christmas ornament when it detects the power to the outdoor switch is off. There is another trigger that gets executed when to turn the chirp off when power is restored. So, basically, when the Christmas ornament starts chirping, that tells me that I need to go and check the thing I'm monitoring. I could have turned on a light, but I wanted something audible that I could hear from anyplace in the house.

I use a iDevices Outdoor Switch with outdoor globe string lights. It’s beautiful ambiance on my back deck.

I have a galaxy note 2 phone that charges at about 1.7A so I have 2A chargers scattered everywhere(even a few wall sockets with 2A USB plugs), so I was looking at the microusb chargers on fleabay and thought about bypassing the DNA's charging circuit and extending the SMT LEDs somehow integrating them into the case. The DNA wouldn't know when it was charging, but I could get an amp worth of passthrough on it.

Let's look at what you need here. Obviously a wifi capable board. Enough processor and such to handle simple commands, it has to be able to talk to your app, and run the wifi stack. A relay (I am going to assume 110V)

I'm not much into circuit design, I like to paste together off the shelf stuff, so I would go with a raspberry pi (with 8 IO ports) and something like this for the relay.

Or something like this and you don't even have to write the app.

https://www.amazon.com/Meross-Reliable-Connection-Mediatek-Occupies/dp/B079KYHLDZ

I wanted to put a picture but we have these, i think we had to take the outlet plate off to get the baseplate part on.... but it works for electric plugs. Might work for phone jacks?. https://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Outlet-Cover-Shortener/dp/B000HKVG9C/ref=asc_df_B000HKVG9C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198090943423&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15751411912487128278&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032808&hvtargid=pla-384313761796&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/iVAC-10031-010-Automated-Vacuum-Switch/dp/B0035YGLZG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522730608&sr=8-1&keywords=vacuum+switch+dust+collection

I love mine too. Here's the link for anyone who is interested.

Darth Vader Tiki Cup

Death Star Ice Maker

wifi controlled outlets could be fun to control ambience during D&D

Just get remote powered outlets. Right before I play I click a button and they turn on. Easy as it can be.

I've had several models and like this one the best. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B0087DAW46

Install a recessed wall outlet that will be hidden from view.

I have these Etekcity outlets that have a setting for exactly this! You set the timer for the days & times that you’re away and it will turn the lights on and off at random times inside that window.

Kasa's smart plugs are 2 for $39 currently. I put my outdoor walkway and spot lights on their built in sunrise/sunset timer. Also using one for the Xmas tree (soon).
A bit over your price, but one for you, one for them! :)

I’m about to buy one. I opted out of the Wemo because of some of the feedback I received about them having issues reconnecting, not sure how valid it was but it irked me.


Two people mentioned the following plugs to me, saying positive things, and might try them.

Etekcity WiFi Smart Plug, Voltson Mini Outlet with Energy Monitoring (4-Pack), No Hub Required, ETL Listed, White, Works with Alexa, Google Home and IFTTT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GVPYPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_VMp8BbVKZTJHT

Hi there, I’m not a tradesman, but could this be the device you are searching for?

Automated Vacuum Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YGLZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8O08BbA4033C6

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

Nice! I got this one from Ankuoo that I use with my Gaggia Classic that has similar features.

TP-Link’s kasa line seems rock solid in my apartment— many switches and plugs etc. HS105 is a simple smart plug (no energy monitoring) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B8W2KHZ/

Anyway there are reasons why you may not want all wifi devices. When I recently did a house, I went for Lutron Caesta for many reasons, which is hub based.

BTW— I think SmartThings is great, but really doesn’t sound like what you need... it would complicate your setup needlessly.

Lastly, an Echo Plus or equiv. has a ZigBee hub inside, otherwise, you may be hard pressed to support your current smart plug.

Any machine can do that, with this: https://www.amazon.com/Ankuoo-Smart-Plug-Wi-Fi-White/dp/B00NAX2GVU

some machines will not turn on with a timer, but most hx or dual boilers will. Check your model first.

I bought an iDevice timer

That timer is exactly the same one we used to control the pump on an inground pool. It was hardwired to a junction box. I think it may be in a box somewhere. It lasted decades.

Will this do?


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FSHKQ5

These are the plugs (Smart Plug Compatible With Alexa, Echo, Google Home and IFTTT, FREECUBE Smart Socket Remote Control Your Home Appliances from Anywhere 16A 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGSBFNJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KKdTDb0P3HFEW) same exact feature set. The power monitoring was actually closer to actual on these before calibration. The Zoozee were way off.

Here’s the guide I used. You don’t replace your original file with third party, you add the third party as an option. When flashing use third party instead of original.


https://github.com/kueblc/tuya-convert/blob/master/README.md

I have something that's $15.22 but I'll still show it anyways because it's super cool :D

They sell these things on amazon, that allow you to plug your usb cables directly into your electrical outlets, as opposed to plugging in the bulky chargers etc.

Maybe I'm just a super nerd but I think it's really cool :)

You could use something like this

Sure. I cut a couple of holes in the container and attached two old computer box fans. The inflow fan low on one side and the exhaust fan high on the other. Then I made a wooden top from 3/4" plywood to hold the light. I attached the power to one of these smart plugs to control the lights.

Someone else mentioned a zigbee sensor with the Echo Show. I do this (but I only have one). My sensor is actually one of the Lowe's Iris Motion Detectors that I think are discontinued now, but it does motion and temperature. You need something that does zigbee though for my sensor, but I think the sensor cost me like $10 when I bought it.

Another thing you could try is to get an arduino board of some sort and have it report the temperature. For example, I have a LaunchPad XL that can report a temperature of the board. I set it up to report the temperature, and then I smooth it out by taking the average over the past 5 minutes since it isn't very accurate. It works over WiFi but has to be plugged in all the time. I also have a Grove board with a temperature sensor that I haven't set up yet. You could use a raspberry pi or other boards as well. There are a lot of straightforward tutorials available.

Another option you could try is to get an alexa compatible smart thermostat but not connect it to your HVAC. It may still be able to report the temperature and would avoid upsetting your landlord.

Another option is something like the Sonoff TH16 Wifi temperature and humidity sensor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FSHKQ5. It is pretty reasonably priced and is said to work with Alexa out of the box.

Per Jakkarth, Bench vice... first thing that came to mind. maybe a bench grinder. Does he have a good shop vac? Dust extractor? Maybe this w/ a shop vac.

You could use these outlets instead.

I have these Meross plugs and 3 of the Merkury bulbs. No issues at all with either.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079KYHLDZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just bought 8 of these a few weeks ago. Working great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079KYVRN8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Go for these 2 pack of 16A (instead of the 10A linked above) with Power Monitoring for $11.99 - 10% clip coupon - 50% coupon code 3A6NB97H = ~$3 per plug with tax. I bought 5 packs (10 plugs) for $30.87.

And yes the current Tuya-convert works fine on them to get them off the cloud. I'm using ESPHome.

These one's are really cheap and were pretty dang easy to use tuya convert on. Somebody actually posted a coupon for them not too long ago. Came out to about $3.5 a pop

I have an LTE hotspot and reception isn't an issue in my hangar, will probably go with a WiFi switch: http://amzn.com/B00NAX2GVU. Then hook up all my other WiFi enabled stuff to it... not sure how the hotspot will stay connected 24/7 but we'll see.

Thanks for the suggestion. I do have the power to the tv in the recessed outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-689-W-Recessed-Receptacle-Residential/dp/B0012DKBL2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484360886&sr=8-1&keywords=recessed+outlet

That is what I have. I think using a 6" flexible extender as mentioned above is going to be the best fit.

I'd recommend the iDevices brand outdoor plug over the iHome one. I've used both and had much better results with the first one. My iHome plug would frequently drop it's WiFi connection despite only being 10 feet and one sliding patio door away from an access point. I now have an additional iDevices plug located roughly 40 feet from the house and it never has issues.

Just be aware that while the iDevices plug has two outlets, they cannot be controlled separately.

I’ve got 2 low voltage transformers to power landscape lights. I’d like to control the lighting via HomeKit and I’m wondering what the most effective way to do that might be.

I was thinking of two options, but open to other ideas...

• Buy an outdoor smart plug and set the transformer to “always on” - is this iDevices switch my only option? I was hoping for something less expensive.
  
• Find a HomeKit compatible landscape light controller
  
  Thanks!

> LED indicator light glows to notify user that device is charging and will go off when a full charge is achieved

http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7740W-K-Combination/dp/B007NC5GI4

Here's the Amazon link http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5630-W-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle-125-Volt/dp/B008O11IEY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1407759817&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+wall+outlet

Something like this in your ceiling?
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B003ATXIBG/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1468333722&sr=1-13&keywords=Electrical+male+inlet

which one do you have? I heard the old did but the 2018 does not. This is the 2018 - https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Outlet-GP-U999SJVLDAA-Smart/dp/B07F96JB63/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=samsung+smartthings+plug&qid=1565648213&s=gateway&sr=8-8

Here’s the switch:

https://www.amazon.com/iVAC-10031-010-Automated-Vacuum-Switch/dp/B0035YGLZG

And if you want to get real high speed:
https://www.amazon.com/iVAC-Pro-Tool-Plus-Sensor/dp/B00PJ2090A

Upgrade to tamper resistant outlets. They are now code in many states, and are quite cheap. They work by having a gate over the top two holes, that only moves IF both prongs are being inserted.

A apologize for my confusing question. I hope this helps:

Out of battery, in to dc-ac inverter (linked above).

Out of AC-side of inverter. Into the back of a wall plug like this one. This will be installed into a wall and used to power stuff.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: like this one


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

Using this strategy, you can probably put this together with off-the-shelf components. These type of relays are common for dust collectors for saws (i.e. turning on a central vacuum whenever the saw is turned on).

Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/BCTINT-iVac-Automated-Vacuum-Switch/dp/B0035YGLZG

They undoubtedly make them for higher amperage saws as well. Looks like OP's machine might be a 20 or 30 amp plug.

Plug the machine into the "saw" socket, plug a lamp with whatever color bulb into the "vacuum" socket, all set.

This is interesting, and good information to know, but now I have some follow up questions.

• Do you have a link to the pull chain with with the outlets? Also how hard is it to re-wire one? I've re-weird like 30+ outlets and switches.
  
  
  
• According to law the dumb switch light bulb has to stay dumb? But if I have the (smart) LED light plugged into the new fixture, it can be smart?
  
  
  
• So you made the outlet smart with something like THIS?
  
  
  
  
• Another question, I have a 3 way switch that controls the light bulb on my stairs leading into the basement and a setup that you just talked about (pull chain with fluorescent light). Can I switch out one of the 3 way switches with a Smart 3 way switch? Pull the pull chain to "off" and just let the new smart switch control the Stairs light, and the fluorescent light?
  
  
  
• One more thing, what LED shop lights did you go with?

This is the one, I'll get home in an hour or so If your thinking about buying some I can dm you when mine is setup and let you know what I think!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079MFTYMV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WEEoDbPVSYH8A

Meross WiFi Smart Plug Mini, Alexa and Google Voice Control, App Remote Control, Timer, Occupies Only One Socket, No Hub Needed, 16A, FCC and ETL Complied (Smart Plug - 4 Pack) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B079KYHLDZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M3YmDbMHN83F5

Why not get one of those small switches that plug into an extension cord/outlet used to turn off lamps and so forth. it will be between the wall and the power supply, so there is no fear of the power supply cord being wimpy.

wall jack -> switch -> Pi Power Supply -> pi.

Look on amazon for 'In Line Power switch'

example:

https://www.amazon.com/BindMaster-Grounded-Single-Adapter-Indicator/dp/B01M7V6U2Q/


Or get one of those Weemo or other remote outlets.
'Alexa Turn off the Pi'

OR have the pi do a shutdown routine where the last thing it does is play a audio clip saying 'Alexa turn off the pi'
But i cant figure out how that would work.. get a second pi to say it to turn off the first. Yea thats it.. 0_0


I Do have one of those 'switched usb cables' - but I have gotten where i use big/beefy/quality Power supplies for my Pi, that are hard wired into my Power Supply, one less point of failure. I do not recall any issues with the USB switch, but it has been some time since i last used it, and i think i used it on my pi-zero which does not use a lot of power.

You probably want something like this

https://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-689-W-Recessed-Receptacle-Residential/dp/B0012DKBL2?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_52pik6sfkh_e

Wire your charging stand so the switch is in the stand, then you'll have the one cord from the stand to the outlet and you don't have to try to find the outlet made of unobtanium.

Or, if you want, you can hide this for best aesthetics, and use the master switch or the individual switches as you wish.

Or try this device or this sort of switch at the wall.

Mine was cheaper because I bought my hub and a bunch of sensors as a kit, used.

But, something like this mulitpurpose sensor and this smart outlet.

I have all of my automations run through webcore so that's what I used.

There are a number of technologies that could help in this.
IP enabled [cameras] (https://m.newegg.com/products/9SIA76H32M1663)
could let her watch you and you'd never know if she was watching.
A [VPN] (https://pimylifeup.com/raspberry-pi-vpn-server/)
connection to your network with a [VNC] (https://www.realvnc.com/download/vnc/)
connection (team viewer's big brother) could give her full control short of you disconnecting the Internet/power, which could be limited by [other] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DKIH10)
[physical] (https://www.amazon.com/NTW-net-Lock-insert-Butterfly-finger-release/dp/B00QKH7JI8)
means.
If your computer is capable of [wake-on-LAN] (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wake-on-LAN)
she could even power it up when it is turned to a low power use state.
All of these things present knowledge/monetary challenges and ITSec risks so read up before throwing down.

don't have one but it looks like this will do the job:

https://www.amazon.com/Sonoff-Temperature-Humidity-Controller-Appliances/dp/B075FSHKQ5/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1548980463&sr=1-1&keywords=Sonoff+TH16%2BAM2301+Sensor

I've heard of these power strips but I've never used them before. I'd like to try one out.

But in the meantime, I use to use these [Etekcity AC Power remote control] (http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B0087DAW46) to power on/off the speakers I had hooked up to my TV.

It may be worthwhile to take a look into consumer options for the tvs and small devices.

Ankuoo NEO Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAX2GVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sZ4QybZ6RWDQ8

Wemo also has a few other options.

These are minimal install/config once you connect them on the network. Though they can also grow legs and walk off easily.

So I would need this

Sonoff TH16 Wifi Temperature and Humidity Sensor Switch+AM2301 RF Controller for DIY Smart Home,Wireless Remote Control Home Appliances and Work with Amazon Alexa, 1 Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FSHKQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uZaZBbF8TQQ5Q

And the probe:

Diymore 5Pcs DS18B20 Waterproof Temperature Sensors Thermistor Temperature Controller Length 1M Thermometer with Probe (1M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JKVRVNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VZaZBbN6WY76M

Well, they have logic/control boards and my treadmill has an LED screen which I find hard to believe uses a battery. That TRC might work other than I’m already needing to put a switched receptacle such as this BindMaster on top of things given some design idiocy of the treadmill: the screen won’t ever shut off and its own power switch is not well located.

I use this Meross Mini Wifi Smart Plug on all my rigs, rated for 16A, never had an issue.

There are a bunch of different types.

These were good for most outlets
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WEKS6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EAr6BbW32C831

These were good for outlets that needed things to stay plugged in, but Lowe's hardware had them for half the price.
Safety 1st Outlet Cover with Cord Shortener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HKVG9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5Cr6BbRJ69PA1

Thanks but I picked up these for $34

Replace the outlet with one of these?

EATON TR7740W-K Combination Electrical Receptacle, 125 V, 15 A A, 1.9 x 3.8 x 5.9", White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NC5GI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9cR4Cb54KRGKS

These work well for me; ymmv.

Smart Plug TanTan Wi-Fi Mini Socket Smart Outlet, Work with Amazon Alexa and Google Home, No Hub Required, Remote Control your Devices, ETL and FCC Listed 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KYVRN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uv21CbRFG2J7S

How about these 4 for $32

Okay looking into it some more, I think you’ll be fine daisy-chaining. The bridge plate on a 15A receptacle should be able to handle that.

In home wiring there can be tails wire-nutted in each junction box so one receptacle can be removed without breaking the circuit.

I’m not sure if there would be an issue using stranded wire in the outlet screw terminals. What I would make sure of is that your cord is anchored in some way, so pulling on the extension cord isn’t putting force directly on the screw terminals.

Again, if you search for power inlet receptacle like so , you can avoid that whole male cord issue.

Here is something to cover up the outlet completely and it will also line up with the panduit and you will see zero cables.

https://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Outlet-Cover-Shortener/dp/B000HKVG9C/ref=sr_1_6_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1496525405&sr=8-6&keywords=outlet%2Bsafety%2Bcovers&th=1

Edit: If you scroll down to reviews and look at customer images, you can see one where it is closed and has the black cable coming straight down. And another image showing the underside where the hole is and how it can line up perfectly with the panduit.

Check out the iDevices Outdoor Switch: https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Outdoor-Switch-Monitoring-Required/dp/B019IJNKCS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539602230&sr=8-3&keywords=idevices+outdoor+switch

I have this set up with Octoprint Anywhere and IFTTT. I have Octoprint Anywhere set up on my Octoprint (and the app on my phone). You can set up Octoprint Anywhere so that it sends you an email when the print is completed. My printer is plugged into a smart outlet (VeSync). If you get the app IFTTT (stands for If This Then That) you can set it up so that when you get the email (Gmail) from Octoprint Anywhere, it turns the smart outlet off. Works great. It may sound confusing but it’s actually very easy to set up.

These are the outlets I have but I’m guessing IFTTT would work with most brands. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GVPYPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_

Remote control outlet would be easier:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087DAW46?

I don't have a resource for exactly what you're looking for and I'm not sure what your use case is, but you could also think about swapping out the outlet itself for an inset outlet such as:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-689-W-Recessed-Receptacle-Residential/dp/B0012DKBL2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=inset+outlet&qid=1555988238&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I'm looking at this one but really wish there was something a little cheaper.
iDevices Outdoor Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019IJNKCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i87oybDEBAZ4H

May I suggest an outlet cover like this: https://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Outlet-Cover-Shortener/dp/B000HKVG9C ? It's harder for little fingers to open because you have to press in on both sides at once. The little plastic plugs for outlets are surprisingly easy for little fingers to pull out.

Watch out for climbing gates and other things now too. It feels like once they get that climbing bug it doesn't stop... (My youngest, almost 3, can climb over our 3ft tall baby gates just using his upper body strength. I've seen him climb up the couch from the back. He's just "freakishly" strong compared to his brothers though.)

Yes! There is not need to cut the strip expept maybe at the end of the strip so it fits inside the shelf. I don’t use L connectors since I found that I don’t like cutting them and when I had tried once previously my whole strip got damaged. Also L connectors won’t work with my strip since these aren’t the waterproof kind that have a large layer of rubber over them, making them easy to Bend and turn. these are the leds I use and these are the WiFi plugs I use. And yes, if you put all the plugs under the same name folder in the Alexa app you can shut them all off with one button.

I just flashed 4 of these smart plugs with Tuya-convert. The Tasmota firmware shows the power monitoring and it integrated easily into home assistant. I didn’t have to open/modify the smart plugs. Just powered them and flashed them over WiFi.


Smart Plug Compatible With Alexa, Echo, Google Home and IFTTT, FREECUBE Smart Socket Remote Control Your Home Appliances from Anywhere 16A 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGSBFNJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Iq8XDbZ5D5WZG

I use one of these.

Should I be using the one you posted instead? Is it safer?

For the record I safely power down from the menu before hitting the switch. I'm not an animal.

Get one of these and put a padlock on it.

I just tried charging mine with a couple different USB chargers.

1. 500 mA brick: didn't recognize it while on, but when I turned the tablet off and replugged it in, it started to charge.
   
   
2. 700 mA USB outlet: recognized it as AC charging. Not sure how long it would take; I suspect a while.
   
   I'd say if you need a charge and you don't have the supplied 2 amp brick, turn off the tablet first and you should be good.

I've got the vive link box running mini-DP to the PC. Almost every time I start the vive, I have to "reboot" the link box to get the display to turn on. I've heard there are issues with mini-DP, but I'm seeing people using HDMI report similar problems. I don't understand why it's happening. I have the link box power connected to an outlet with a remote like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087DAW46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lbWVzbNZEK3V4

Using the remote to power it off & on fixes things and I get a picture in the vive. It's easier than physically powering the link box off & on. Wish I understood why this was happening & had a better solution. It's almost as if the vive is "asleep" & needs a power cycle to "wake up."

It actually depends on what brand and model you get. As he mentioned, the essentials are lights, speakers and blind controls. Although my own version would be: Automated house lights, appliances you use (Coffeemaker, humidifier, smart oil diffuser, heater, fan, AC) which is a huge plus and maybe whole house speakers but if you don't have many speakers like Sonos or don't care for speakers you can also go for security for your house. I'm not sure you can get very good lights or so for that price range and have a hub or smart switch to go along with it so I'll recommend you things I own and find that are within your price range.

Smart plugs $30 for 4 plugs on Amazon they are very small and impressive and work with Google and Alexa along with IFTTT. Want cheaper? Try the same ones but it's one for $8 Here.

Or two sets of smart lights Here for $24. It also works with Google and Alex along with IFTTT. Most smart plugs will be used here. You can make many of your appliances "smart" with a simple plug. I, in fact, was watching this video right now about smart home gadgets by Rick Buck on YouTube. Very very informational about smart home appliances and definitely tells you a lot about smart plugs and how to use them

>smartthings zigbee outlets

This one? https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Outlet-GP-U999SJVLDAA-Smart/dp/B07F96JB63

Look into "smart lights/outlets".

If you get something like this and plug any light into it, it can be controlled via a smartphone app.

These are the last ones I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KYVRN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qeXTDbY0N4VDV

I'm pretty sure they're all pretty much the same, just with different "brand name" stickers slapped on.

I've got some others that literally have no brand name at all, but still use the Smart Life app and all work just dandy. Though they all seem to be limited to 2.4ghz WiFi if that's a concern.

Combination USB Charger

I want to list two more things, but RULESSSS Ughhh.

Seriously, they're $15 and stupid easy to install. Not to mention old hat.

The freezer cord plugs into the wall outlet socket mounted on the back side. this plus this.

That outlet is powered by the controller, which is powered through the cpu socket.

Holy crap, I never saw either of the mods you linked (probably a good thing) since I don't have the space to do all that. Good idea to go with the clean out ports. I wish I had considered that. I probably made a bunch of mistakes in mine, but it's a work in progress (that's my excuse anyway). I have everything pretty tight, as in close together. Small drill press, router table / table saw combo ala Incra, disk/belt sander, small Rikon bandsaw in the non-laundry room part of the basement.

I have 9' x 12' wall to wall space to work with so when at the table saw, my HF workbench is less than 2' behind me so I really only need to turn around for that. The router, table saw, sander, and band aw are each on their own 2" PVC drop with blast gates at each. 1st mistake was the 2" PVC. I should have never done less than 3" and wish I had more. I was getting a shitload of dust with the smaller HF DC, but I'm getting much less now.

I bought a WEN air cleaner and love it. I really recommend you consider it. It's really kept the small stuff from getting everywhere. Since that fine dust everywhere was a big issue for the spouse, it was an easily rationalized purchase. Noise is the big issue now. As I said, I have the exhaust ported out a basement window like a dryer vent into a window well. Not optimal, but serviceable. As you can see here, I have the new louder DC under the table where the sander and bandsaw are sitting. I'm looking at 'boxing' it in with something, but not sure what I'll try 1st. I wonder if active noise cancellation would help.

As to auto switch, I thought about it, but everything is so close I can almost reach the remote switched outlet for the DC from anywhere, but it had me looking and the iVac was about all I saw commercially. I did see some DIY breadboard builds though. Thanks for the write up. (*Edit) There seem to be a lot of videos on modding the HF model, but that Rikon impeller is not cheap if you can find one.

You could definitely put it in a shelf. Get some cord staples to keep her from pulling it down off the shelf. As for the outlet, get a cover like this one. We use it in our son's room.

Thanks! actually the one further down the page would be perfect , link below, will this handle that wattage?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7V6U2Q/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y0B1QS07CEER2YKDXPXZ

You want something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HKVG9C

They come in several styles but that's the one we got. Just be sure to check if you have the old style single screw in the middle outlet plates or the newer "decora" style outlets with two screws above and below.

This is what I use and it works amazingly well!!!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087DAW46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

May need to get another app activated on off switch to go in line. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NAX2GVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459362618&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=wifi+power+outlet&dpPl=1&dpID=313N2yxNvcL&ref=plSrch

I was having the same issue. My zWave devices were all battery powered, same with the Zigbee, so they wouldn't work as repeaters. I purchased a couple zWave repeaters and a couple of the ST Zigbee plugs, and put them in my weak areas, rebuilt the networks and it solved my issues.

buy this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087DAW46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and turn them on or off with a remote... boom, easy.

We have those outlet covers and love them. We also changed some outlets to the tamper resistant ones. I believe they come in that style you have and an electrician could probably do it in no time if you can't do it yourself. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-Duplex-Outlet-White-10-Pack-M22-T5320-WMP/100684043.
We still have some of the plastic plug ins in our double outlets and we have these covers for things that need to remain plugged in like lamps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HKVG9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_9_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1520390976&sr=8-9&keywords=outlet+covers&dpPl=1&dpID=41N1fEBvopL&ref=plSrch
I still need a better power strip cover solution because I don't like the ones I've seen online.

I think it's a very nice plug, no question. I'm not sold on the usefulness of having a fuse in an individual cord. I can count on one hand the number of times that I have actually had a circuit breaker or fuse pop correctly, and it seems like fuses go bad for no reason more often than they go bad for a good reason. As evidence of this, think of how many times you have just replaced a fuse without having to fix anything else - that's a sign that the fuse shouldn't have blown in the first place.

In the US, we do have plugs now that require both prongs to be inserted simultaneously, making it similarly impossibly to stick a screwdriver or whatever in there (http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5320-W-Resistant-Receptacle-Residential/dp/B0015R9M2Y/ref=sr_1_131?ie=UTF8&qid=1421376706&sr=8-131&keywords=safety+outlet). As I understand, these are code for new construction in some places. I view these as the best of both worlds - safe, but no ground prong required when not needed.

The final thing is that the UK plugs have nonconductive prongs except at the tips. I am not sure if this is doable with the US plug as it is much more narrow, and any plastic may break. It would be really nice if we could have that too.

So I'd call that a 1 point advantage and the UK plug still wins.

I purchased this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CO9582Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nnEWDb82KKA89 and this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079MFTYMV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EoEWDb0F5FFWK
It solved the problem for me? I hooked one of the spare smart-plug things to a fan.