Tip: When that tape wears off, try using real Gaffer Tape. The tape you're using is closer to proper Duct tape, which may annoy you when it comes off (stick and stuff)

This is the tape that road crews use to tape cables to the ground (tile, carpet etc). It's slightly pliable and wont leave any residue when you remove it. It's actually amazing stuff, i use it for all sorts of things

Not sure what exactly Amanda’s tape looked like but.....This is the kind of tape that Kim Kardashian uses for her boobs.

Just some questions for you and /u/brokenleko

1. I've never used gaffer tape, is this okay? Or maybe this?. Or anything on amazon.ca that you guys would recommend?
   
   
2. Is there any harm to just cutting it off? I'm unlikely to land on it when running

Eh... you probably can't, actually. This roll on Amazon isn't a bad deal. (Currently $17.34 with Amazon Prime / free s.saver shipping available.) It's going to be a fair bit more expensive than duct tape.

If you want to look for a local supplier, they might have it at the hardware store (although half the time, they've never heard of it), but also try calling places that deal in pro A/V equipment-- pro photography/camera shops or music stores (think Guitar Center) often carry it.

I use black gaff tape to cover any conspicuous logos on equipment I’m trying to keep low key. Works great, doesn’t leave a residue after a trip.

If you’re not familiar with gaff tape, it’s similar to duct tape but the facing is a matte cloth and the adhesive is designed to not leave a residue when removed. It’s incredibly useful in a variety of situations and worth the $20 or so per roll.

Edit: this is the stuff

Gaffer's Tape

Table top facade

You could try ordering tape online. Here's one that I highly recommend, a little more expensive but so good! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D823HX8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_0v6uCbZ4SV7C1

I'm a renter - I've learned to get ethernet all sorts of fun places without taking the hassle or expense of running cables through walls and under floors.

Step 1 - What you need:#

Buy 100 ft. of flat, white, Cat 6 cable - something like this will do.

You'll also want some white gaffer tape. Be SURE you get gaffer tape, and not duct tape. It's just strong enough to string up cable, and won't peel paint. Something like this.

Pour yourself a glass of lemonade. We'll come back to this later.

Step 2 - What to do:#

Here's where you get to be creative.

Find the crown moulding where the walls meets the ceilings and floors of your house. The little creases are perfect for disguising that thin white cable. I have hundreds of feet of ethernet going all over my house, and it's practically invisible. If you don't have crown moulding, improvise. Match the tape to your paint colors on your walls. Take your time, measure twice, and an extra pair of hands is always helpful. Be sure to be gentle with Cat6, especially with sharp bends and corners.

You also might want a couple ethernet switches on either end, depending on what your needs are. I've had good luck with TP-Link switches, they're fairly affordable, but people don't seem to like them very much around here.

Step 3 - Drink that glass of lemonade from earlier.

'Cause you're done, baby. Enjoy your gigabit LAN.

P.S. If you've got any more questions or whatever, shoot me a message. This sub is a VERY helpful resource, too.

http://www.amazon.com/Intertape-Polymer-Group-5638-Impregnated/dp/B000DZF750
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaffer_tape

Gaffers tape is crazy expensive. :D

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Cloth-Gaffers-Tape-6910/dp/B00H95LOIG

Budget - $10 -

https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Professional-Gaffer-Residue-reflective/dp/B00VVHZZQU - Gaffer tape - Every photographer needs it. It is a good gift to get that practical uncle or dad that you need a stocking suffer for.

I dunno, I look online at my local stores inventory and I see "black duct tape" and some that say "no residue" but I dont know if they are actual gaffers tape (which is more like a cloth and not shiny plastic) like I would use at a show.


Ill have to see in person next time I go, if so it would make things easier for me to get it in a pinch for work.


Like if you check lowes or homedepot I dont see anything called gaffers tape or gaffe tape available here. If you go to guitarcenter.com you do.
I dont know if its just a labeling thing or not though.



You may already know this (sorry if so) but this is what Im talking about

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Gaffer-GafferPower-Available-Multiple/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527720749&sr=8-1&keywords=gaffer+tape

its a cloth tape that leaves no residue and is very easy to tear

Do not use electrical tape. Use gaffer tape

Top rated one on Amazon is $16.71. I guess it might depend on what you mean by "a decent sized roll", but I have one and it's the size of a regular roll of tape, so I would call it "decent sized".

Build some! Get some hard plastic irrigation tubing from Lowes or Home Depot, a few connectors, and some duct tape/grip tape or sand paper. If you know someone with a saw, great, if not you'll want to get a pipe cutter. Building your own is fun and while it seems spendy, I've gotten at least 5 hoops from a roll and have been able to downsize at will. You'll probably want to tape the hoop for added weight, and while gaff tape is nice and great for grip, duct tape is a bit cheaper and does a good enough job.

Congratulations on 3 months sober, it's inspiring to hear hooping has helped!

No, that's definitely duct tape..

This is gaff tape.

It's also worth noting they're not applying it well. Without an inch or two of overlap on either side, one kick will dislodge the whole bundle. If that bundle is coming across a traffic area, they also need to tape the body lengthwise.

This should work. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DVCFFI6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ix3Cub0RXPA5C

Gaffers tape is what's used for staging and hiding cables. I use this on my mat and it's great!

I go through miles of rimtape, so I started using Gaffer's Tape on everything. I've never had an issue with it, and one roll will do a minimum of 21 700c wheels.

The TL:DR answer is "gaffer's tape, gaffer's tape, gaffer's tape" specifically for the Replicator+

Don't bother with blue painters tape or glue sticks. Neither works with the awful flex build plate grip surface that comes with the newest MakerBots.

I run a campus makerspace with three MakerBots. It's been a year since we got them, and we've only just NOW (read: within the last few months) figured out how to cut down on about 95% of the warping. Lots of the solutions on /r/fixmyprint might come from folks who aren't too familiar with MakerBot printers and the true shittiness of the flex build plate grip surface. For reference, our machines are used by a campus of about 10,000 students, so the machines are running 9 hours a day, every day. We ran into the warping problem a lot.

First and foremost, if you're within the 30-day return window, return yours. MakerBot machines have become absolute garbage, and if it wasn't for the $250 restocking fee that MakerBot charges after that 30 days, I'd return my three MakerBots in a heartbeat. Both the extruders and the build plates for the Replicator+ are truly awful. The proprietary MakerBot Print software leaves very little in the way of customization, so you can't really expect to even modify some of the slicer settings to test out what some of the folks on /r/fixmyprint might suggest. At any rate, you should always print with a raft, because of the lack of a heated build plate.

MakerBot Customer Support, in their infinite wisdom, will typically recommend the following things over and over. I've spent more hours on the phone with them than hours at my job, and I'll preface this by saying none of their solutions worked in the long-term for any of our machines:

1. Blue painters tape is the go-to proposed solution by lots of folks. Don't bother, it just peels off as the plastic cools and shrinks. Likewise it scratches so easily, you end up replacing it weekly. In the specific case of MakerBot Replicator+ beds, blue painters tape doesn't stick for very long to the intentionally rough buildtak surface of the build plate, as opposed to with other smooth glass or PEI build plates.
   
2. Wiping build plates with isopropyl alcohol between prints to get rid of fingerprints and dirt. Never had a positive effect on our printed part quality.
   
3. Using helper disks is the solution most often suggested by MakerBot Support. Helper disks just warp off as the print warps, and pull the print up with them. They never worked for us, and did little to prevent warping or curling, even if we placed upwards of eight helper disks around the model.
   
4. Adjusting orientation to minimize surface area sticking to the build plate. On your model, try rotating it so the slimmest edge sits on the plate itself to create less surface area touching the flex build plate itself. This actually sort of works, but not consistently. Sometimes, it's not an ideal solution if propping up the model on a long edge creates tons of new supports.
   
5. Manually adjusting the z-offset height to be closer to build plate. This one, like adjusting the orientation, helped slightly but not in the long run. You're basically smushing more filament into the build plate if you lower the nozzle, which might help. But be careful not to scratch your build plate. Move down in small increments at a time and test.
   
6. Adjusting initial temperatures and slowing down the initial raft and first layer, and turning off the fan for the first few layers is another solution. Not a bad habit to get into, even if it doesn't work with MakerBot printers. Set the initial fan speed from 100% to 0%.
   
7. Avoiding twisting the flex build plates at all, in order to prevent hard-to-detect warping effects. These Replicator+ flexible plates were supposed to be a novel, flexible way to remove printed parts but they have a tendency become permanently warped over time, leading to uneven build plate surfaces. Instead, use a spatula carefully and don't put too much force at all on the build plate.
   
8. Replacing the build plate entirely. A manager at MakerBot admitted over the phone that they ended up having no idea that the flex build plates were so bad, and warped so readily, and he said that they were slowly learning that the build plates were essentially a "consumable" just like filament. Meaning you can expect that if you're twisting them (even a little) to remove prints, you'll be replacing that flex build plate regularly. Another gold star for the MakerBot equipment quality control department.
   
   The solution that worked for us was buying gaffer's tape. Another redditor recommended it, and we purchased this gaffer's tape. Since then, not a single print has failed due to warping issues. We can spread objects across the build plate with little regard for orientation or arrangement without much issue. Granted, on extremely large prints that take up the entire print volume, we might see a slight (maybe 5% at the corner, warping up about 1 or 2mm from the plate) warping issue, but it's nearly perfect compared to before.
   
   We've only had to redo the gaffer's tape laid down two months ago once so far. I can't understate the amazing value of gaffer's tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Roland-JD-XI-JD-Xi/dp/B00VHFOV3E/
+
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014M8ZO8S?ref=emc_b_5_t
+
https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Gaffer-GafferPower-Available-Multiple/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/

I'm only half joking.

I prefer to cover the bottom of the pedals with gaffer tape — there are YouTube videos (which is how I found out about this) but I do it a little differently:

1. Take off the bottom plate of the pedal
   
2. Cover the outside bottom plate with gaffer tape from side to side (left/right, not top to bottom) so that you have about 1/8” or so that wraps around to the inside of the bottom plate.
   
3. For a typical Boss-size pedal, you’ll need a bit more than two strips so for best results start at the middle and then do top and bottom overlapping with the first piece of tape.
   
4. If there is a battery door on the bottom, leave a space for it (unless you’re 100% sure you’ll never use a battery)
   
5. I’ve found that some mini pedals (Mooer) it’s virtually impossible to get the bottom plate off. For any pedal it is possible to wrap the tape around the outside but putting it on the bottom plate gets better results because the pressure of the plate against the enclosure fights against the tape coming off.
   
6. Now the tape gives you a very flat, clean surface for the velcro
   
7. I always use brand-name industrial velcro. I don’t wait days but I do let it sit for a while (20-30 minutes) before starting to use it.
   
8. People have lots of opinions about what size/shape velcro to put on the bottom of the pedal. For most standard size pedals I put a single strip of 2” hook side that runs the entire length of the pedal top to bottom (leaving about 1/8” margin at each end) — although this makes it harder to get the pedal off the board, the velcro actually stays on the pedal better for the same reason that it stays on the board better if you use a single long strip from end to end — as you pull to detach the pedal, the unattached portions of the velcro strip keep the velcro from pulling off at the tension point.
   
   Edit: the gaffer tape should come off clean in most cases so this is also a great way to attach velcro to new/mint pedals and be able to easily get it off later when you want to sell but leave the pedal in mint condition.

You sir, have nailed exactly what I am shooting for in my EDC setup, I feel my congratulations is not enough to express how proud you must feel. Beautifully done. If you come across anything that is not matte black enough, I find that Gaffer's Tape fixes it up quite nicely. Imagine Duct Tape without the residue.

I have been considering a G-Shock like the one in the photograph, but I can't bring myself to purchase it in the stead of my already functional Target-bought Timex.

I have a similar load-out, but as you can see, I'm not nearly as color schemed. I wish i could do a better photo, but my camera cellular-telephone is currently the best camera I own. I plan to get a better photograph in the future.

Finally, do you think that your flashlight was a good buy?

Real Premium Grade Gaffer Tape By GafferPower Made in the USA Black (Also Available in Multiple Colors) 2 Inch X 30 Yards Heavy Duty Gaffer's Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Pun4CbSXM3219

Hey, I have the same camera and intend on doing the same thing, only on Tuesday (8/14) night. I'll miss peak by one night... :/

I've never shot a meteor shower, though.

Anyway, I use the camera more with my refractor, but I do wide-angle shots sometimes, including one of the ISS I keep meaning to post (and hope to remember to do when I get home today). Here's things I've learned in my short time in astrophotography; remember, this is general stuff, as I've never shot a meteor shower:

• I put the lens in manual focus, find a decently bright star, turn on live-view, zoom in on the screen all the way, and focus. It's still kind of tricky, but it gets better with practice.
  
• While it's a nice lens, the kit lens has a terrible little focus ring. To keep it in focus, I use gaffer tape. I keep a couple feet of this stuff rolled up around a toothpick in my camera bag. It's awesome. It's like duct tape, but won't leave a residue on the camera. Don't use it on or near the optics, and take it off before putting the camera away. A tiny piece will do to hold the focus ring in place (1/2" square or less).
  
• I trust you have a tripod; a good solid tripod is a must.
  
• I think the answer for which ISO setting is this: Set it as high as you need it to get the shot, but as low as you can to avoid noise. Sorry for the vague answer, but it can change depending on what other settings you use. I like to start at 800 and go up or down.
  
• Your exposure length should give you a histogram peak somewhere in the middle. The big picture is: you don't want your histogram too close to either the left or right sides. To do that, you'll adjust exposure length, ISO, or aperture.
  
• I've heard people say to stop the aperture down a little to make sharper stars. It's a balance between that and actually capturing the stars as points, unless you want star trails... For a meteor shower, star trails might work. (I keep mine wide open, but I do more shooting with my telescope, not a lens.)
  
• Using a remote of some kind is a good idea to keep the camera stable while controlling exposure. There's also a setting to add a delay of 2 seconds before taking the exposure.
  
• There's also a thing called "the hat trick", where you cover the lens with a hat (or something), open the shutter, give the camera a second or two to stop shaking, then move your hat (starting the real exposure). Reverse to stop the exposure. I haven't done it, but it sounds reasonable.
  
• Take dark frames to eliminate noise, or use the built-in high-ISO noise reduction. This person said why better than I can.
  
• There's also a setting in the menus to dim the display. It'll keep from blinding you too much while using live view at night.
  
• I stick with RAW. It's not lossy. I like jpeg for everything else, because I'm not a pro. But for AP, I stick with RAW, since there are much fewer photons involved.
  
  All right, I feel like I'm missing some things. It's late, I'm working the night shift, and I don't have my notes with me. Also, I might be rambling. I really like the D5100, though, and I feel like there's a lot of tricks to learn. That's half the fun, though, right? :D

Do yourself a favor and pick up some Gaffer Tape and place on the printing surface(Tray). It helps the first layer of a print adhere to the surface much better. I used to struggle with starting a print almost every time but after I started using the tape I haven't had a problem since.

The magic tape you seek is gaffer's tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Power/dp/B00GZE3UJ8

Maybe some Glow in the Dark Tape? Not sure how bright it gets, but you could put in next to the letters on the shifter. If it doesn't light up bright enough to see the letters, you can line it up with the letters and write them on the tape, so you can see them at night.

I used to etch my tools with my first initial and last name. My tools at home have been etched with the last 4 of my social. I was talking to a friend that used to be an investigator for the police department. That friend said that if someone is caught stealing or with stolen property, they'll usually check everything else in their possession. If your tools are marked with your name and drivers license number, the police will be able to contact you and return your items. Also, put the abbreviated state there as well. Cops can usually identify a drivers license number when they see it and will be able to look it up in their vehicle. I've started etching my tools with a small dremel brand engraver (model: 290-01). For my bigger items (i.e; drills, circular saws, and other powertools) I will etch them with name and drivers license number, but then I will also use a black or white paint marker to write my name on it. Sharpie has different size paint markers, don't use the regular sharpie markers because they wear off after a few weeks, the paint markers tend to last a lot longer. I've even made a few different size stencils and spray painted my name on the tools. I used Microsoft Word and selected the "Stencil" font and printed out stencils, laminated them, and then cut it out with an exacto knife. It takes some time, but those stencils are re-useable and tend to last awhile. I was in the Marine Corps and they trained us to mark everything. Even our tools in our toolboxes were marked with the toolbox number, drawer, and item number within the drawer. My underwear and socks were individually marked!!

Also, another thing that I've done in the past to quickly identify my tools from others is to put hockey tape on the handles of my power tools. There's also "GAFFERS Tape" that you can buy with different colors. They're tough like duct tape, but don't leave a sticky residue when the tape is removed. I don't use electrical tape because after awhile, it'll stop being sticky and will either fall off or will just float around the handle and gets pretty annoying. Oh, and sometimes if you're out in the heat and the adhesive gets warm and oozes off and onto your hands making your hands black and sticky. Hockey tape is the tape hockey players use on their hockey sticks and they come in different colors, so if you're a hot pink man, then wrap your handles in pink hockey tape. It's sort of like that tape that's on wooden baseball bats, works great for handles on your impact driver or circular saw. You can also write your name on that part as well. I mean, this stuff was make for the grips on hockey sticks! I think it'll work on your drill. Just a few ideas..

Gaffer tape

gaff tape is strong but doesnt leave the sticky residue that duct tape does.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QC0XZO?aaxitk=3ljt6H2kU-vZRxJ.BKHVUA&pd_rd_i=B000QC0XZO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3ff6092e-8451-438b-8278-7e94064b4d42&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_i=pro-gaff+tape&hsa_cr_id=7503656610801&sb-ci-n=productDescription&sb-ci-v=Pro%20Gaffer%20Gaffers%20Tape%2C%202%20in%20x%2055%20yd%2C%20Black

Gaffer's tape and a sledgehammer oughta fix it.

Gaffer's Tape, not what you're talking about though. It's aluminum wire backed duct tape. The God tier of all tapes.

They sell it on Amazon even have it on Prime at a somewhat higher than normal price. You can buy it from nearly any production company/store, 4Wall, Christie Lites, VER, LMG, PRG, BMI, or nearly any A/V store.

Might want to look into a Gaffers tape. Its a matte finish, non-reflective so that might work. I picked some up for my DIY screen from amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y23YYTY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

I found a camo color gaffer tape that I used on the bottom side of the rim liner to have the color show through... I know they have many colors.

Camouflage Tape, Premium Grade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY26CV8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yes, there is a way:

• Press Controls at the very bottom left
  
• Press Settings at the top of the window that came up
  
• Press Safety & Security along the left
  
• Press Data Sharing
  
• Uncheck the first I Agree box
  
  Edit: This disables sending clips to Tesla, but it might still be recording. If it really comes to it, gaffers tape?. I'd just ask the gate guards if they know of anyone there has a tesla. If they say yes, there is obviously something that can be done....

You might be interested in QLC+ (it's free and open source) and an Enttec DMX USB Pro mk I (same company as the DMXIS, but a hundred bucks less). I've programmed a show for a buddy's band to their click track and had a generally positive time with it. I'm a professional lighting nut, so I thought it was a bit restrictive, but that's more of a problem I have with preprogrammed shows than with the software.

Take the $200 you'd save with this control scheme instead and spent it on safety cables, velcro cable ties, a storage bin for your cables, computer, and DMX adapter, gaff tape, and pizza for when you get together to program and jam the first time!

Those links probably aren't the best options for each thing, I just wanted to link examples.

No shit, it's expensive. Amazon's got it for $0.50/yard. Damn.

Hello, I somewhat specialize here.

What you can do is use gaff tape to secure the phone to the headset. use it around all the edges, at your discretion. you MUST use gaff tape because it leaves very little sticky residue... some may stay because of the heat, but its very easily cleanable. The strength of duct tape without the mess.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Power%C2%AE/dp/B00GZE3UJ8
*This comes in many colors, even white, which may suit better to be less noticeable.

After that, you can secure the black cover plate to it to cover up the phone... if you care more about security than aesthetics, go ahead and secure the black cover plate to the headset as well with the gaff tape...

alternatively, you can configure an anti theft pull box to the phone and/or headset. anti theft kits will most likely leave some sort of mark on either device so use with caution.

http://www.cissecuritysolutions.com/Anti-Theft_Pull-Boxes.html

Gaffers tape. It won’t tear like painters tape will.

Pro Gaff on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/ProTapes-Pro-Gaffers-Adhesive-Thickness/dp/B00J4I9GNG

Every color you could ever want

it is ProGaff 2 inch tape. all gaffer tape is matte as it is a special fabric and glue combo made to stick well, but not leave residue when pulled up. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PX4ZBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a3ogzbJ2G4ZZH

Heads up, the only issue I've had with my pressure pad in the past 8 or so months (range/ fun time weapon, not a work gun) is that your run of the mill gaffer tape shits a huge amount of slime onto the pressure pad, but even then, goo-gone gets rid of it

"A gaffer in the motion picture industry and on a television crew is the head electrician, responsible for the execution (and sometimes the design) of the lighting plan for a production. The term gaffer originally related to the moving of overhead equipment to control lighting levels using a gaff. The gaffer's assistant is the best boy.[1]

Sometimes the gaffer is credited as Chief Lighting Technician (CLT)."
-Wikipedia

Side note: that's why the black tape used to secure/hide cords is called gaffer's tape

"In US and Canadian filmmaking, the key grip supervises all grip (lighting and rigging) crews and reports to the director of photography.[1]"
-Wikipedia

So the Key Grip is similar to the Gaffer, but has a focus on things like dollies, cranes, vehicles, etc.

It looks to me like your butt was too low for your hamstrings to have been engaged. But you're pretty tall, so maybe they were. Either way, I found this video pretty enlightening about the importance of getting your hamstrings involved in your deadlift.

I like to set up with my butt down, chest out, back flat, arms tight, and then lift my butt, while keeping a flat back, until I can feel my hamstrings load. The weight does really feel lighter when this all comes together properly, and it is quite surreal the first time you pull it off.

For the chub I recommend gaffer tape for its strong hold and durability without leaving sticky residue.

I love my white shoes, haven't gotten a bad rower strap mark yet, maybe the straps at my studio are forgiving! I do try not to tighten the strap down too much or use my feet to "pull" myself from the finish back to the catch.

You can use a piece of white gaffer tape across the strap area of your shoe to avoid the problem entirely (gaffer tape is easier on and off than duct tape and doesn't leave any adhesive on your shoe) https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZO7BNLE/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For general accumulated dirt, I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LABUT5S/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gaff tape sticks to everything

REAL USA Professional Grade Gaffer Tape By Gaffer Power, Made in the USA, Heavy Duty Gaffers Tape, Non-Reflective, Multipurpose. (2 Inches x 30 Yards, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cvR0Db5P2XRNQ

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GZE3UJ8

It's great stuff!

sure thing buddy. gaff tape is used in the entertainment industry, (i stole a few rolls from a camera man job i had at a news station) and it is MAGIC. think duct tape without the sticky residue and a better texture. It is much more expensive than duct tape, but it is absolute magic for DIY car repair, house repair, or taping in general.


http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Grade-Yard-Gaffers-Tape/dp/B000QDRRIE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369928864&sr=8-1&keywords=gaffing+tape

Dude. Gaff tape.

Thanks for mentioning gaffers tape. What kind of gaffers tape did you use? I don't know much about tapes and 3D printing. Would this work?
http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Tape/dp/B00LMNYFHI/

Thanks!

No, that is gorilla tape, that's double thick duct tape.

Gaffer's tape is matte black and comes up with little to no residue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/

Gaffer tape is less harsh on the skin.

The bung did not want to stay in initially. I think because I had pulled it from the sanitized water so to make sure it wasn't going anywhere and ruining the works I secured it with some gaffers tape.

Unrelated pro tip from photo and video experience. Decent gaffers tape is much better for securing non paper items than duck tape. It wont leave a sticky mess and its just as strong if not stronger than duck tape.

This is what I use and love

For hiding the power cord, you could try white gaffer's tape: https://smile.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Power/dp/B00LMNYFHI

It feels more like a fabric, so it won't shine like duct tape would. Also, gaffer's tape is stronger than masking tape, but shouldn't leave residue like duct tape might.

>...They are up against white trim...any temporary-ish solutions on sticking the cable to the door trim?

www.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Power/dp/B00LMNYFHI/

White colored gaffer's tape. If you aren't familiar with the product, it's basically duct tape, but does NOT leave behind sticky residue when you remove it.

color matching for now, easy removal and clean up later

You can get it for $12 on Amazon, the tape that is.

Gaffers Tape - 2 Inch by 40 Yards in Black - Get 33% More! High End Professional Grade - Gaffer Tape is the Perfect Alternative to Duct Tape, Electrical Tape, and other Adhesives https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018TKMNCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ytxRyb7J2HKQB

I run a 50' ethernet cable from my living room into my bedroom. I just pulled it tight, and secured it with a roll of Gaffer's Tape. Once it's gaffed down you can stick it under a rug or what have you. For two cables put them side by side, pull tight, and gaff a foot at a time

The cables are the carbon ones from cablemod. The tape is a fabric black tape like this.

It's usually black gaffers tape like this one

Any non-conductive tape should do though.

I doubt it would be the tape that would cause a noise. Make sure all of the screws are in all the way and it's properly secured.

Gaffer's Tape. It's intended to tape cables to floors for stage production stuff. Here's the stuff I bought last year sometime. (but I'm out now. :( )

One of 1,000 uses for the best tape in the world: Gaffer tape.

http://www.amazon.com/Gaffers-Tape-Professional-Alternative-Electrical/dp/B018TKMNCA

(or buying nicer stands)

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You actually want to get gaffers tape. It's more expensive but it doesn't leave residue on your cables or surface (provided you change it every so often.) It also won't get all dried and crispy like duct tape.

You probably want 2"

Thanks guys!

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Might try this, I have some Amazon credits to use

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZO7BNLE/ref=twister_B01N0SAZNC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I beg you to get some gaff tape though... that duck tape gonna get awfully sticky.

Like the others said, a good upholstery shop would have no problem taking care of this for you. If you use a gaffer's tape it'll hold the repair better than duct tape, as well as blending better with the fabric or vinyl of the seat.

Has anyone ever tried gaffers tape? Its like duct tape (i would even say it holds better), and its cloth not plastic so it would probably breath better.

TIL about gaffer's tape, now on my Amazon wish list. Haven't used it yet, but if it works as advertised I may be able to turn that "MMPH! MMPH!" into a "MM! MM!".

It looks a lot like Gaf Tape.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/