(Part 3) Best heatsinks according to redditors
We found 1,353 Reddit comments discussing the best heatsinks. We ranked the 288 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Found this sub while looking for a new laptop to replace my surface pro 3. I'm a Psychiatry Fellow and spend most of my day typing notes while people speak, so a T series keyboard sounded like a good priority. I also do photography and graphic design on the side, utilizing several Adobe CC products, so 8th Gen processor, upgradeable drive/ram, and color accurate screen were essential. Almost went with X1C6, but ultimately, longevity and value (still just a fellow) were more important than portability and brightness. So in the end, the T480 seemed like the best fit (though I really miss having a touch screen).
Below is my custom config ordered during the Black Friday in July sale, followed by my mods:
Ordered specs:
.
Upgrades on arrival:
The screen is beautiful, and I'm digging the anti-glare matte, though my SP3 glossy screen made colors pop more. I installed the calibrated color profile from the notebookcheck.com review of the T480s with what I assume was the same WQHD screen. Here are the instructions I used from notebookcheck.
Replacing the internal components was a breeze, though unfortunately, I watched the Lenovo disassembly video that showed front clips being disengaged with spudger, so now I have a front gap. Also broke a battery compartment clip but whatever.
I installed windows fresh using a recovery flash drive made before swapping in the NVMe drive. I'm fully updated through both vantage and windows update, which took a few hours.
Ultimately, I'm ridiculously happy with this build. The keyboard is a DREAM except for the annoying fn button placement (who thought this was a good idea?). I threw in a Logitech MX Master 2S for desk work, but honestly, this trackpoint is a game changer when I'm working on my lap.
Any other mod suggestions??? Questions??? Comments???
> Carbonaut is $40
Carbonaut is actually only $16, it's just that it's currently back-ordered through the default "fulfilled by Amazon" seller and it's a third party seller that wants 43 bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07PHN2ZNY/condition=new
Bought this m.2 heatsink to go with this drive. Tested without it: 51c after 2 hours of gaming on the drive. With it: 39c about 4 hours in right now.
If you want a large heatsink that works really good with the older Pi's (3B, 2 and 2B+) go for the Kintaro one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BT855JV/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
I own this one on two Pi 2B+ and they keep it around 10 degree's cooler. I just like the idea of having nice passive cooling on them so when they do get warm it helps cool them off quicker.
​
They do make one for the 3B+ (I own one of those too) but they seem to be sold out at the moment.
​
Kintaro's main site:
https://www.kintaro.co/
PSA: If you're buying anything else from Amazon for $25 or more you can get the Ceramique 2 for $3.98
http://smile.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Ceramique-Compound-CMQ2-2-7G/dp/B0087X73AM
You want good heat transfer to the glass. I use thermal pads and it work to bind the glass to the plate as well as fills in any scrapes. You can find it in larger sheets on amazon. You may need more then one fill the while bed, but it works great!
Something like this.
200x200x0.5mm Thermal Pad, 6W/m.k Thermal Conductivity/Non Conductive/Insulation/heat resistance/High temperature resistance/Heat Sink Silicone Sheet Pads For Laptop Heatsink/GPU/CPU/LED Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075JCQPD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wS1VDbCZW205G
I did a lot of research on Carbonaut and IC Graphite, and almost all the (professional) reviews put the IC Graphite a tad ahead of Carbonaut. But I believe this stems from mounting pressure, or lack thereof. The performance of the Carbonaut scales with mounting pressure, and my suspicion from reading reviews, is that in most cases, and with most types of cooling solutions, the average Joe like myself, won't achieve the mounting pressure needed to make the Carbonaut shine and outperform the IC Graphite.
Another thing to consider, is that, although Carbonaut has excellent thermal conductivity in the Z axis (from the IHS towards the heat sink), it doesn't have as good thermal conductivity in the two other axis as the IC Graphite does. This is because the Carbonaut has fibers, and these fibers are aligned in the Z axis specifically to make it most efficient in that axis. So it seems the IC Graphite is better at dealing with small hot-spots. If you look at images of the 3900X without the IHS, the two CCX dies are tiny in area compared to the total area of the IHS. The CCX dies are two hot-spots.
As for the customer reviews, I found that the IC Graphite not only has a lot more reviews (e.g. larger sample size), but it has much better customer reviews as well:
vs
​
All things considered, I opted for IC Graphite.
May be a copper heatsink for the RAM chip located on the bottom of (at least some) pis.
EDIT / EXAMPLE
https://www.amazon.com/Easycargo-Raspberry-Heatsink-Aluminum-conductive/dp/B07217N5LS
Thermal pads are typically about 3-4°C worse than thermal paste, however the hassle it saves is nice.
The best pads are Thermal Grizzly Carbonaut's, this is the version for Ryzen CPU's.
Probably Amazon. Prices vary depending on the thickness of the pad. 1mm for $28 or 0.5mm for $22.
Do note that the 17 W/Mk is only available on the more expensive FujiPoly Ultra Extreme. Non-ultra is only 11 W/Mk.
I really doubt it. How will you connect the wires to the GPIO pins if its in you aluminum case? Just get this and call it a day: https://www.amazon.com/Kintaro-Raspberry-Pi-heatsink-Model/dp/B07BT855JV/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527183416&sr=1-5&keywords=old+skool+tools
This is the heatsink that comes with the super kuma 9000 case and I can personally vouch for its cooling abilities. I run a heavily overclocked pi3 and it works great.
Yup! I used Thermaltake TG-7
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/200x200x0-5mm-Conductivity-Conductive-Insulation-temperature/dp/B075JCQPD2/
Price History
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Don’t know how hot that particular m.2 gets but might be a good idea to slap this on it. It will look better too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KDDKDNN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_6PcIDb1YQ7KW7
It's really simple. There are some A320 boards that support some Ryzen 3000 series cpus. If you don't go for a high watts model, you'll be fine. 65 watts is basically "nothing" and while gaming or running normal apps, your cpu won't even eat those 65 watts. I have a 105 watts 2700X and I rarely see it using its full TDP potential. The 65 watts cpu on a A320 board will be fine. If you want to be totally sure, you could always add some small metal heat sinks on your VRMs.
https://www.amazon.com/Easycargo-Heatsink-conductive-Regulators-8-8mmx8-8mmx5mm/dp/B079FQ22LK/ref=pd_sbs_147_2/146-2136597-0131035?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B079FQ22LK&pd_rd_r=3ff33e4f-73fd-48e2-9394-b8c32cdc87e3&pd_rd_w=r92Eu&pd_rd_wg=epmer&pf_rd_p=52b7592c-2dc9-4ac6-84d4-4bda6360045e&pf_rd_r=4BTYJZBZGDFTV7A390HY&psc=1&refRID=4BTYJZBZGDFTV7A390HY
8 bucks. 9*9 mm heat sinks, perfectly for putting them on the small VRM modules.
Can you recommend another comparable cooler in a similar price range with LGA 1366 and/or LGA 2011/2011-3 support? If not, I'll continue to get and suggest them for "budget" builds on those platforms.
And, to those who think X99 can't be a "budget" platform, I'll just say that I've bought and sold multiple X99 boards (Asus, Gigabyte, etc.) in the $35-60 price range. And, while probably a bit more luck was involved with the CPUs, but I've seen something like the i7-5820K for as low as about $135, i7-5960Xs around the $400 price point (as well as the one I got for $275 over on /r/hardwareswap), or the various E5 v3 engineering samples. Sure, you should use a better cooler, but for basic testbenching, I haven't found anything better than the 212 Evo in the $15-20 range.
Perhaps, I should try the Intel BXTS13A for $21...
This was Intels offered cooler for LGA-2011 (X79) and LGA-2011v3 (X99), So no they didn't always recommend a liquid cooler. Even the original Extreme Editions used an Air Cooler.
They did offer an upgrade 120mm AIO cooler, but I think you'd be hardpressed to maintain reasonable temperatures on X299 with a 120mm.
Said this on a few posts asking about a cooler but the cooler master hyper 212 is amazing, you'll get plenty saying it's cheap and there are better out there, but mine is silent, idol temps are around 25° and it's about 50° under lengthy load so for the price and compared to the stock wraith coolers with AMD it's definitely worth it. Cooler Master Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition CPU Cooling System https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07H9JL1P8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.fjYDbQ1PWXSF that's the RGB edition I have, it comes in non RGB at £10 less and then standard silver one at another £10 less depending what you want looks wise
Would you be able to post some pictures? Particularly of this square cut out you're referencing. That'll help us give some advice.
It's possible you'll need to use a shim to be able to get proper contact. It'll be something like these that will go between the H55 and the GPU die (with thermal paste used on both sides of the shim). Just make sure you get a size that will fit over the entire GPU die for the best contact possible.
Let me know if you have any other questions or concerns, happy to help! :)
You don't even know what CPU he has and you say to underclock to 2.0ghz? That's likely cutting his frequency literally in half which would yield bad perormance. And underclocking isn't really what you want anyway, it's undervolting that you want (running at the highest frequency with the least amount of voltage needed to reduce temperatures). For example, I run my 3900x at 4.2ghz and 1.1875V and get lower temperatures and power draw without sacrificing performance.
OP, I have the same motherboard and also noticed my pcie 4.0 Corsair SSD running a little hotter than average. I'd recommend running userbenchmark and seeing if your SSD is performing under average due to any temperature throttling. If it isn't, you shouldn't worry. If you are, buying something like this might also help (what I did that lowered temps ~5C).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNRP9HK/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_AE92Db1ZMJPMC
I highly highly highly suggest a JIS cross point no. 2. The philips head no 2 can easily damage the screws used from the factory.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A7WAHTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518651012&sr=8-1&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rps=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=jis&dpPl=1&dpID=413vva2sI3L&ref=plSrch
The PA unit is under the filter board. No soldering needed to remove it. Just a lot of screws and multi pin connections. I suggest a camera to keep track.
I also suggest a high quality thermal paste like the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Ceramique-Compound-CMQ2-2-7G/dp/B0087X73AM
Or
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-ORACO-MX40001-BL-Compound-Performance-Interface/dp/B0045JCFLY
I recognize that you're in the UK, but the below amazon.ca links are the exact extra heatsinks and thermal tape that I purchased:
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B079FQ22LK
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07BHK2Z1Y
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00EQ1ZAZ4
A couple of other notes:
- the stock goo that is applied to the memory chips does not clean off well, even with isopropyl alcohol. What worked best for me was pressing down with a piece of tape and lifting that gunk off each chip individually. You'll really want to make sure that the memory is nice and clean, or you'll run into issues with the heatsinks falling off.
- you'll have to offset the 6 memory heatsinks to the left and right a little bit, and the two on the top quite a bit, to give the Extreme IV enough clearance to make a solid contact on the core package.
Edit: If you're planning to use a flashed 5700 with linux, you'll run into issues. Even with the latest amdgpu drivers, the latest 5.3 kernel, and a fresh git clone of the navi amdgpu firmware, my linux system would just hang when loading the display manager. As soon as I reflashed back to stock firmware, everything ran fine. Because the Venn diagram of linux users with reflashed navi cards was apparently just myself, I couldn't find any troubleshooting resources, so I've just gone back to the stock non-XT firmware and rely on modded powerplay tables for overclocking in my Windows environment.
It’s actually a Ryzen Wraith Stealth ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079PZWX2L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3BDpDb5JR4HTP
Oh on another note have you tried the these cos it makes the whole tear down and rebuild sooo much easier...
Thermal Grizzly Carbonaut Thermal Pad - 32 32 0.2 mm https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07PHN2ZNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5JWxDb8A91RG5
Morpheus comes with some heat sinks to put on the VRMs and other components. Ended up buying a package of these small heat sinks, but could have made do without.
I can pm you a pic of my heat sink layout using the included/Amazon ones if you need it in the future.
Hmm, I'll have to try it out on the heatsinks. I am currently using this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QNRP9HK on my SSD and it seems to work well.
The Scythe Fuma can be found for a sound price on amazon.fr, https://www.amazon.fr/Scythe-SCFM1000-Ventilateur-processeur-LGA1151/dp/B016XLGATE/. I would not be afraid to mix shops here, it won't raise costs.
> Could you give me any brand of PSU to look for ?
Don't go by brand, go by model. PSU quality varies for every series, and sometimes even differs for different psu sizes in the same series.
The prices in france make it difficult to recommend my usual models. On LDLC, there is their QS-550+, which seems to be good: http://www.ldlc.com/fiche/PB00151005.html#57c2fbb66533e. On amazon, the RMx 550 would be okay, https://www.amazon.fr/Corsair-CP-9020090-EU-Modulaire-Complet-Alimentation/dp/B015Q7F36M, but the 650W model costs only 10€ more… On topachat, I'd get the EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G2 (99€), which is excellent.
I believe you need to add a copper shim if you decide to go with G12 route because of EVGA's baseplate design Either remove the baseplate entirely or also add in a copper shim in order for the aio to make proper contact.
Another air cooler I recommend and currently using is the Rajintek Morpheus II It doesn't come with any fans, but you can attach with your favorite 2 120mm case fans which will be far more superior than regular vga fans. Downside is that it will take roughly 3.5 slots when you add the fans. I'm only averaging 60C max under load with my OC gtx 980 ti while maintaining high clocks with it with 2 Noctua nf-f12 ippc fans attached.
Use 10x10mm heat sinks for the rear two voltage regulator transistors. I used 15x15mm copper heatsink shims to create the custom heat sinks for the 4 small transistors around each single opamp. These were the shims I used, 1mm seems a good thickness, but slightly less like a 0.8mm would be fine as well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5SMY0W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They were bonded to the transistors using this thermal epoxy (which also was added to the cut and bent corner intersections for better conductivity/efficiency of heat away from the transistors):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087X7262/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Picture of the adhered custom heatsinks before I added the epoxy to the gap intersection:
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-6NjDqDM/1/94baa3bf/O/i-6NjDqDM.jpg
Have Classic duals and Vivid singles, which is what I settled on after having full set of both. Difference is not night and day, but is noticeable side by side over stock. Some headphones are slightly preferred on stock (mainly the planarss) while others are more preferred with the Bursons (modded HD58X and TH-X00s). The Porta Pro's can swing either way.
Stock opamps are not as clean or resolving sounding, little less separation and not as tight sound as the Bursons. There are other opamps besides Burson which are much cheaper. Head-fi Gustard H10 thread has some impressions of different opamps in it. The Bursons are an improvement in fidelity, but basically almost double the price of the H10...
Also don't be weirded out by the slightly bipolar nature of the H10's sound until it seemingly settles down (if it is apparent). It seems H10 will initially sound good, then get worse, then come back and sound better, maybe fluctuate a bit after that, and finally just keep getting better. Very much seems to be everyones experience with it within the frst few hundred hours of use.
A legit wraith stealth is like $13 on amazon..
AMD Wraith Stealth Socket AM4 4-Pin Connector CPU Cooler with Aluminum Heatsink & 3.93-Inch Fan (Slim) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079PZWX2L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZOdWDbKDYAPQQ
Thanks for the comment Lewis.
When posted this i just looked at the specs. In that i mean like the basic not the generation or how high the number is. I still have no idea what the difference between a 1660ti and 1650ti. What i mean is i understand the higher the number the better but not really sure performance wise.
I talked to people on the discord and they helped me decide what laptop to get and how to solve me problem.
I am going to get the Helios 300 with a M.2 Sabrent 1TB SSD and a Heatsink for the SSD.
will this thermal paste work fine? - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087X73AM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
just got a Noctua D15 for my ryzen 1800x. I used that paste with a cool master t4, but i upgraded to a cryoig h7 which came with its own paste. Still was getting the same temps so now here i am with the d15
It's this:
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Connector-Aluminum-Heatsink-3-93-Inch/dp/B079PZWX2L
I really don't know much about CPU fans (my gaming days are over and I primarily work with business machines both at work and home) but these don't look too bad. Hopefully someone more in the know will chime in though?
Check this thread
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/6bu1ew/do_i_need_an_aftermarket_cooler_for_my_ryzen_5/
Without knowing if you are overclocking or how much room you have in your case, here are some possibilities:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Contac-Silent-Support-CL-P039-AL12BL/dp/B06X9Q1K88
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-ONE-Processor/dp/B076LQ2BJZ
Stock
https://www.amazon.com/Stealth-Connector-Aluminum-Heatsink-3-93-Inch/dp/B079PZWX2L
Cooler Master Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition CPU Cooling System https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07H9JL1P8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_52e4Db2KWD4HQ
This cooler is on special offer and 3000+MHz ram kits on special offer too.
I use this cooler myself on a 2700 and also used it in a few builds for other people. Amazing for the price
This stuff: 200x200x0.5mm Aikenuo Soft Thermal Silicone Pad 6W/m.k Thermal Conductivity Conductive, (Heatsink Grease Upgraded) Cooling silicon sheet Pads For Laptop GPU/CPU/VGA/IC/LED Reduce Work Temperature https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075JCQPD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0eg8Ab0Z1QM48
> You realize that the default NH-D15 aesthetic (without the brown/beige fans) works due to the neutral color of the aluminum? Here's an idea maybe you should look up the Redux refresh that is coming out that is cheaper and also is just as aesthetic.
Regardless - it's silver, and comes with brown fans. This one is black and comes with black fans.
It's a different aesthetic. They are equal but different. lol.
the "redux" lines are grey, and not quite as good as the current fans, hence reduced price. They aren't black.
>Doesn't matter what's available right now.
Yes it does.
>NF-A15 Chromax aren't that price range. If you're so concerned then get Redux NF-P14R/S ,rubber corners and you'd still save money. There's plenty of alternatives that aren't Chromax including Redux or other competing options.
They absolutely are. Newegg - $40
Amazon $35
the Chromax cover is another 40 bones.
So far we're up to more than $100 to black out an existing D15.
> If you're so concerned then get Redux NF-P14R/S ,rubber corners and you'd still save money. There's plenty of alternatives that aren't Chromax including Redux or other competing options.
The 14's have 140mm spacing, and don't fit the cooler mount properly. you need 120mm spacing like on the a12's or a15's.
The p14r/s can't use rubber mount corners (which are $10 for enough for 2 fans), are STILL $20 a piece, are louder and lower performance, and are grey.
>It's not better than the NF-A14/NF-F12 that were LTT branded. Oh wait it's the same exact shit just recycled.
those aren't available now, and at the time they were noctua didn't have their chromax line. I think you had to get an industrial noctua fan if you wanted a black one and they were almost $50 each.
The black cooler is going to be around for a while. the LTT is a limited edition thing.
>I get to dictate
No, the fuck you don't. lmao. You don't get to dictate a goddamned thing.
>price/performance is no longer on Noctua's side with this or the NH-U12A. They're now priced just as high as a 280 AIO or similarly.
Sure. The price/performance has decreased. Nobody debated that. Not everything is about pure performance per dollar though. There are many better "values" on the market - that doesn't make this one a "waste of money".
>If you want aesthetics then you'd go for an AIO than paying a premium.
"aesthetics" isn't a universal thing. Some people like the aesthetic of a water cooler, some like a big black air cooler. All depends on which aesthetic you like. "all blacked out" is an aesthetic just as much as "rgb everything" is.
>That premium is a before tax premium.
Yes... after taxes it's an extra dollar or three depending. $23.50 on a $2350 machine then... Most reasonable adults would assume "plus taxes" on things.
no thermal paste was used on the heat sink. I just used the glue where the holes are. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BT855JV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this heat sink
Sure
I think it would be about the same. The best thing for lowering the temperature would be a proper M.2 heatsink like this https://www.amazon.com/heatsink-Double-Sided-Matching-Thermal-Silicone/dp/B07KDDKDNN/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=M.2+heatsink&qid=1556277671&s=electronics&sr=1-4
> I'm leaning a bit for Banana-PI because more open software and SATA connector.
I had an older Banana Pi which I bought to use as a NAS for this reason but it ended up sucking balls for two reasons (3 but i fixed one)
make sure you buy some little heatsinks like these because otherwise the fucker will get unbearably slow after about 10 minutes
https://camelcamelcamel.com/Cryorig-Ultimate-CR-R1A-Heatsink-2xXF140/product/B00HUHC3WY
Cryorig only sells through themselves by using Newegg and Amazon to host them as 3rd party resellers. This is not the normal price, for fucks sake even your original link proves you wrong dude.
Do I need thermal paste/compound/adhesive/whatever it's called to install this cooling kit and these heatsinks on an R9 290?
Shame but you probably dont need to use it. Check your M.2 Temps without it with something like Crystal Disk Info and if your M.2 is getting a bit warm you can opt for an aftermarket m.2 heatsink
>8x38 Carbonaut pad
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Carbonaut-38-0-2/dp/B07PHLJYWK
It's not even a question of that--I can't make any promises that your chip doesn't have bad thermal paste beneath the IHS, or that it's even good enough to run 5.0 GHz, or that any cooler will be good enough to run it at 5.0 GHz if the thermal paste is cracked beneath the IHS etc.
I had an unmodified 7700K that when new was an absolutely fantastic unit, went up to 5.1 GHz, ran very cool and on low voltages on 5.0 GHz, ran absurdly well on 4.8 GHz etc. and then a year and a half later the paste beneath had deteriorated to the point that my previously fantastic unit could no longer even run 5.0 GHz under load.
Delidding it^link and putting liquid metal between the chip and the IHS dropped ~25-30°C off my temperatures and I was once again able to run 5.0 GHz.
These 7700K chips are known for their thermal paste issues.
On top of all of that I don't even know anything about your chip, you haven't even tried more than 4.7 GHz yourself, and that's a long long way from 5.0 GHz.
The Scythe Fuma cooler is hands down the best value you'll get when it comes to quality cooling. It performs nearly the same as the 50% more expensive Noctua NH-D15, but obviously has slightly louder and worse fans than Noctua (theirs are the best).
Scythe Fuma: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scythe-SCFM-1000-SCFM-1000-Fuma-CPU-Cooler/dp/B016XLGATE
Noctua NH-D15: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-D15-Premium-Cooler-Cooling/dp/B00L7UZMAK
BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 4: https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUIET-Dark-Silent-Wings-Cooler/dp/B07BY6F8D9
These are the three top-of-the-line coolers I'd consider if I wanted to make sure my cooler wasn't holding me back from 5.0 GHz. They are very tall coolers so make sure that's going to be alright in your case space-wise and clearance-wise for your RAM.
Found a comment on a similar SSD (corsair) with same mobo they removed the heatsink and put this on it - https://www.amazon.com/Heatsink-Copper-Copper%EF%BC%8C-Silicone-Thermal/dp/B07QNRP9HK and seems to run fine, was overheating otherwise, anyone think otherwise?
I see some other pretty low profile looking heatsinks that might actually work, there is space to have a heatsink, just not as tall as the one it comes with
*Edit - Ordered a heatsink (the taller one should fit, if not will try the smaller one) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PS9S2DZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Will update once I get all my parts and complete the build for anyone with this issue in the future
I'd say it warms to about 80-85 F if not given sufficient ventilation under the back side (it intakes from the bottom and blows out the back.) It does suffer some thermal throttling even when undervolted and "repasted" (it actually has thermal padding on top of the CPU instead of paste, I got some .5mm padding to replace it for some improvement.)
Regarding its weight, I'm not sure what else to compare -- it weighs about 4lbs, which I think is appropriate given its size. I've had a few 17" and other 15" in my life and I think it's probably on the heftier side compared to most 15". But then again, its build quality is quite excellent and it's got quite a few surprisingly aluminum parts instead of all plastic.
They are necessary for the Kraken. The VRM temps have been documented over 100C is several tests. You have several options, the one I would recommend is to get the VRM 290(x) kit along with low-profile copper heatsinks for the VRAM modules. These accessories plus the Kraken and you will be in good shape. Alternatively, you could wait until Corsair's HG10 bracket is released and benchmarked-they claim that their design will allow for sufficient VRM cooling (however, NZXT said that about the Kraken too)
Edit: read this for more info on how to install VRM heatsinks
https://www.amazon.com/mod-smart-Fujipoly-Extreme-Thermal/dp/B00ZSJQLME/
I have a decent stash of that stuff as I fix and maintanance other peoples PC, as well. Use it whenever I can.
Yeah I used the bracket and 4 screws that came with the card for the core but did use the clear plastic "washers" and their screws for the rest. Used the white plastic washers for the backplate as that's what they are for. And I always use Kingpin KPX thermal paste on my GPU (since dealing with Vega hotspot which was whole diff animal).
The instructions are the worst part about Bykski stuff, but it wasn't my first block (or first Bykski block) so I already knew what I was doing. Be careful tightening their screws too much as they do strip pretty easily. That's actually that main reason I used the AMD provided ones that are attached to the bracket. You can order new GPU mounting sets from Bykski.us if you need them.
What's the rest of your setup? Is this your first loop?
here
Yup, clearly did. My bad. How big are the VRM's, I can't find any numbers online and don't want to open up the card till I have a plan. I am running the card at -20% power limit, so that might help a bit.
I was planning on buying some of these and pointing a case fan at them to cool the VRM. Will it be enough, and what is the stock cooler using to cool them?
EDIT: GamersNexus put heatsinks on the VRM, but he was increasing the voltage a ton.
Got it! To the novice ear when you say GPU I'm thinking the whole until, meanwhile (I just had to look this up so I might be wrong) the GPU is the chip in the center while the PCB is the circuit board it's mounted on. Got it!
So I only need to by 4 heatsinks? I don't need to buy anything else special besides the alcohol?
Would the heatsinks in this set work (5th picture to the right)? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07217N5LS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n90JBbRHYWY83
http://www.amazon.com/Kootek-Cooling-Copper-Heatsinks-Raspberry/dp/B00CJRZP9I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1410240540&sr=8-3&keywords=vga+heatsink
wouldnt these work?
I thought those are thinner? I dont know how thin are IC graphite tho
As well as Grizzly Carbonaut Pads had pretty bad reviews in amazon, so I'm kinda scared to try them.
The super kintaro supports a case fan, but I see you're using a different one, and I'm not sure if it does or not. Pi's don't need a lot of coming, but if you expect your friend to put it in a media center, or to overclock the device for some N64 or PSX action, I'd add one if possible. Another option is this fantastic little cooler, which is also very quiet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075R4S9GH or you can purchase the super kintaro heatsink alone: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BT855JV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9QQ2AbN7782R2
Both of those work for your Pi3, but not for the later 3b+ because of the extra PoE pins.
I've seen people use stuff like this Planning on a Kraken G12 setup as well haha
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Corp-BXTS13A-Thermal-Solution/dp/B00MWAFKOW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1524790972&sr=8-5&keywords=intel+LGA2011+cooler
Intel Thermal Solution Air Cooling, Supports the LGA2011 and LGA2011-v3 Socket Only
$20.81
Design that delivers high availability, scalability, and for maximum
flexibility and price/performance
Made in United States
It's amazon so super easy returns if you end up not needing it.
would a fractal design meshify C work with a cryorig r1 ultimate?
Dont use the enthoo pro, use the enthoo pro m. Its newer and nicer
And i'd either get this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00HUHC3WY/?tag=pcp0f-21
or this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00HPX7J4K/?tag=pcp0f-21
You mean this?
CPU upgrades are more complicated then it seems. If you buy a Ryzen 3000 now and say 2-3 years down the line you want to upgrade it's going to be a little hard. First the new AMD cpus aren't going to work on your existing board (AM4 is on it's last gen right now). So unless you can find a used higher SKU Ryzen 3, you're going to need to update your mobo as well. Maybe even RAM? That's a whole system upgrade there. If you plan to upgrade you're going to need to upgrade fairly often and quickly to expect to be able to reuse parts.
If you're just talking about the act of building a computer, there are lost of great guides on YouTube and it's not as hard as it would seem.
If you don't want to deal with paste I highly recommenced thermal pads like:
https://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Graphite-Thermal-Pad/dp/B07CKVW18G/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=thermal+pad&qid=1569897016&s=electronics&sr=1-4 OR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PHLJYWK/ref=psdc_2998409011_t3_B07CKVW18G
It's going to preform close to the best thermal paste but saves so much headache.
x570 has great features but you're never going to use them in a server (pci-e 4.0, overclocking features). But the same really goes for an x470 board as well (Multi-gpu. I say save money on a B450 board.
Go over to r/buildapc for more advice.
In all honesty this is what I would go for https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LnhxrV
There’s many reasons, firstly with a b450 (specially gigabyte) you are going to struggle with the bios for a 3rd gen.
A 2080 super is quite unnecessary, if you really want one then get the same model I chose but as a 2080.
The cooler is the best air cooler on the market and arguably one of the best non custom coolers.
I would however buy the chromax covers for it Noctua NA-HC4 Chromax Heatsink Covers for NH-D15/NH-D15S/NH-D15 SE-AM4 - Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07656PY4C
As the other user said, it's top of the line.
Here are some similar performance alternatives:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B016XLGATE
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06ZYB8K77
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B079X3DBH8
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BY6F8D9
i recently picked this up with the
19.99 white kraken g10
16GB (8GB x 2) Vulcan ram
A large mousepad
for a checkout price of $183.00 after the -25$ visa checkout offer, and after the $30 rebate for the Corsair linked here I made out with $153.00 worth of stuff, plus the 99$ Senn 598's on amazon
if you're gonna use this with a kraken its recommended you get some vrm heatsinks too like this
http://www.amazon.com/Kootek-Cooling-Copper-Heatsinks-Raspberry/dp/B00CJRZP9I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Went to Best Buy on my lunch break, picked up this .
If you look up "thermal pad" on Amazon, buy one that is thick enough to fill the gap. I would imagine the thicker ones would fill the gap. You can also ship that gap with a copper shim https://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Heatsink-Copper-Thermal-15mmx15mm/dp/B00E5SMY0W/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1500310505&sr=8-15&keywords=thermal+pad
Or sand down a (copper!) penny and call it a day. Make sure to use thermal paste if you do so.
You can try to use thermal paste if you want, but the air gaps on these not-very-precise heatsinks aren't designed to be filled with traditional thermal paste. The thermal paste will likely act as a thermal insulator at that thickness.
Hope this helps...
Ninja edit: By the way, in the future, you can fix the noise just by blowing out your heatsinks. Make sure to stick something in the fans to prevent them from spinning, because canned air will cause the blades/motor to spin much faster than the bearings (if applicable) are designed to spin, and it can burn them out, actually making the problem worse. Many times on these older machines you don't even need to disassemble at all (sometimes just removing one plate) to make sure the blades don't spin.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078X8WCY2/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_KCGDCbXJNBFSP
This???
Scythe SCFM 1000 Fuma CPU Cooler https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B016XLGATE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0GXDCbB1D53BA
Something like a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO RGB for €40 or a Deepcool Gammaxx GT for €35. Both are solid options for not a lot of cash. And I'd probably pick both over the the Wraith Prism, unless you can get it for under maybe €20.
BXTS13A, they actually made a shitty stock cooler for LGA2011. Same 80mm mounting pattern as LGA1366/2066.
It is recommended for 130W TDP processors, but not the 150W TDP 3970X. Oddly enough. Somewhere between 130W and 150W, they recommend something better lmao
I double... No no wait... I triple dog dare you.
I'm about to reapply thermal paste to my cpu cooler soon and I'm wondering which paste to use. I have a Cryorig H7 that came with their own thermal paste but I also have a tube of this that my buddy gave me.
Which should I use? Does it even make a difference?
This is the one I was using.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Extreme-Performance-Heatsink-CL-O004-GROSGM/dp/B00O5VX6O2
The Thermal Paste was https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Extreme-Performance-Heatsink-CL-O004-GROSGM/dp/B00O5VX6O2
As the the 212, it's just the regular version (I got it damaged box from Amazon for $10, brand new). Should I try using the thermal paste that came with the Hyper 212 possibly?
I've never tried it. This is the model and size that I bought, but on Amazon's Japanese site.
if your spending over $1800 and not going with a 1080 your doing it wrong! Try to "trim some fat". Also I recommend going for a R1 Uliti over liquid cooling :
https://www.amazon.com/Cryorig-Ultimate-CR-R1A-Heatsink-2xXF140/dp/B00HUHC3WY
I would suggest the following upgrades to begin with (first 3 at once) and you can add more later on.
Overall cost: 1003€ ( or 1014€ )