Reddit Reddit reviews StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB)

We found 342 Reddit comments about StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB)
QUICKLY ACCESS A SATA SSD OR HDD: Add drive space to your laptop by connecting to a SATA 2.5" SATA SSD or HDD using this SATA to USB cable--you can connect to an external drive to add storage, perform backups, create disk images, implement data recoveries, and transfer content to your laptopFAST TRANSFER SPEEDS WITH UASP: The SATA to USB adapter supports USB 3.0 data transfer speeds of 5Gbps, plus you can experience transfer speeds up to 70% faster than conventional USB 3.0 when connected to a computer that also supports UASPCONNECT FROM ANYWHERE: The hard drive USB adapter is a portable solution that tucks away nicely in a laptop bag with no external power requiredSAVE TIME: The hard drive transfer cable lets you easily swap between drives with no need to install the drive inside an enclosure--just plug and playRELIABILITY GUARANTEED: StarTech.com offers a competitive 2-year warranty plus lifetime support on this SATA to USB converter. Max power of the attached drive is 900 mA
Check price on Amazon

342 Reddit comments about StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB):

u/VA_Network_Nerd · 30 pointsr/ApplyingToCollege

<sigh>

You have anger management issues.
Not subject to debate. Not a question.
You have anger management issues.

You should do something about that.

> my little sister accidentally spilled a glass of water on my computer at home and it wasn’t working

This isn't /r/techsupport or /r/computertechs but I can tell you with moderate confidence that your data is still on the hard drive, and can be recovered pretty easily.

If it's a slightly older, or value-oriented laptop, it probably has a 2.5" drive inside.

You just need a nerd to open the laptop, remove the drive, hook it up to something like this and bada-bing-bang-boom your old laptop will show up like a giant USB-Stick.

If it's a modern, higher-performance, or super-mega-ultra-thin laptop it may be glued shut, in which case the level of difficulty just went way the hell up - but if the laptop is already dead, and if you are writing the laptop off as unworthy of repair, then we can use destructive methods to open the laptop to remove the storage device with all your stuff on it.

SOME laptops do not use a removable internal storage device. These are pretty much always the super-ultra-thin devices. You might be in a real pickle with one of these devices.

But if we're talking about a $600 Acer from BestBuy, it's a really easy task you could probably do yourself with a little Googling.

I don't want to delve any deeper into this in this community. Please feel free to engage the nerds in /r/techsupport or something for guidance on what to do.
But I wanted you to know the situation may not be unsalvagable.


Now, back to your intended LOR teacher. Odds are fair that you just inflicted serious damage on your relationship with them.
I wouldn't write you anywhere nearly as positive a LOR after this event as I might have before this event.
And if you're being honest with yourself, neither would you.

Anger Management. Get some help.

u/moYouKnow · 26 pointsr/btc

USB to SATA cables are $10 on Amazon.com problem solved.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/

u/okiyama · 12 pointsr/SSBPM

Grab one of these: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478567410&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+sata+adapter
Of course make sure it's the right connector for your HDD. You will need USB 3 for that one to work too, since it needs more power than USB 2 can deliver.

And then boot up a linux machine and see if it's recognized. If Linux is no good, I've had luck with Mac as well, Windows seems a lot more finicky about whether it will take a shot at figuring out a broken harddrive or not.

Getting data off a drive this way works a lot more often than booting the device, since you're just trying to get raw data off of it rather than needing it to boot first then get data off of it.

u/mayhem-8 · 10 pointsr/applehelp

If it's the MacBook Pro 2012 13" non retina then you may be experiencing the extremely common hard drive cable failure as described here https://beetstech.com/blog/prevent-a1278-mid-2012-hard-drive-cable-failure.

If you happen to have a USB to SATA caddy/connector then you can plug your SSD into your Mac via USB, if it boots then that pretty much proves a hard drive cable issue.

​

You can buy the hard drive cable from Beetstech with a lifetime warranty https://beetstech.com/product/hard-drive-cable-923-0104.

u/forgot_me_name · 9 pointsr/computertechs

You could take off the plastic case and use something like this: StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_zMPYDbY41HJJ5

u/WhosFamousNotMe · 9 pointsr/computers

You're looking for this adapter this adapter.

Edit: The hard drive is probably formatted as NTFS. If that's the case, then basically, all you can do on it is copy things from it to your Mac (which is what you said you wanted to do, so you should be fine). You can't actually change anything on the hard drive unless you get some software to fix it (you can also fix it yourself; I'll link you to a tutorial for that if you run into the issue). If the hard drive is formatted as FAT32 or exFAT, then you shouldn't run into any problems.

u/Trey5169 · 8 pointsr/computers

Trying to back up a hard disk after it fails usually ends up in partial or complete data loss.

Your best bet would be to buy an inexpensive external hard disk adapter, plug it into the usb port of a working computer, and run a program to attempt to recover any data off the drive. You'll have to hope for the best, but expect the worst. If you're lucky (read: very lucky), only boot partitions of the drive have failed, and your data is mostly untouched.

You would need an adapter similar to this one, but of course make sure that the HDD adapter is for your hard disk in particular, i.e. 2.5" v.s. 3.5"

u/engwish · 8 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

Just buy a SATA III to USB connector, plug it into your Xbox, and install Destiny on it. Crisis averted.

u/Hipster-Police · 8 pointsr/mac

That's awfully expensive for what you get. You could buy any 480GB 2.5" SSD on the market, and replace the HDD with that. I've replaced several unibody MBPs and MBs with standard SSDs with very good results.

Since average SSDs of that size are on average around $130, you're practically paying $90 for an enclosure for the old HDD and some cheap tools. You can get all of those off Amazon if you really wanted to, and also pick up a USB to SATA cable for $10 to transfer your old stuff, and still save money.

As for reliability of SSDs like the Sandisk or Crucial, I have SSDs ranging from a few cheap Sandisks SSDs to Samsung 960 EVOs, and unless you're constantly transferring GBs of files you won't see an appreciable difference, from boot up times to load speeds. Hope this answered any concerns you had.

u/devhen · 8 pointsr/linux

Yep. They're way more durable and pretty much just as fast as an internal SSD. I use this connector:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

120gb SSDs are cheap these days. I recommend going this route.

u/TZ26 · 7 pointsr/myfriendwantstoknow

I'd recommend taking the hard drive out to see what size it is and then ordering a SATA to USB connector lead online. You can then plug the hard drive into any computer. That way you can have a look for yourself to see if there is anything 'dodgy' on there, and if you don't find anything, you could put back the hard drive and get it computer fixed with out worrying about it.
I picked up this SATA to USB lead recently off of Amazon for $12 and it works great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84

u/[deleted] · 6 pointsr/tifu

Taking it somewhere will cost major $$$, use a screwdriver to take off the backplate, unscrew the hard drive, unplug it (by pulling directly where it is connected), then buy a SATA to USB adapter and plug it in a computer to copy stuff off of it like a USB. Costs $15 max, most places charge $100+.

If you're not feeling confident about the disassembly, look up "(laptop model) hard drive replacement" on YouTube, I've worked in IT for many years and have only come across a handful of laptops obscure enough to not have a teardown/drive/RAM replacement video on YouTube.

u/SniffMyPony · 5 pointsr/techsupport

Assuming that it's a normal 2.5in HDD, you should just be able to remove it and connect it to another device. You can either connect it internally to another PC or you could get a HDD to usb adapter like this You should also be able to find a YouTube video on how to remove the HDD from your specific laptop, if you're unsure.

u/Ramitt80 · 5 pointsr/bloomington

HDDs are not hard to pull from a desktop and you can get a cheap USB adapter to access it on a new computer. Youtube should have plenty of directions.
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504234904&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=sata+to+usb+adapter&psc=1

u/BitingChaos · 5 pointsr/technology

It's super easy. Maybe 5 minutes to get the screws out, 5 minutes to put the drive in, 5 minutes to put the screws back. Most of the time will just be cloning your HDD to the SSD, or copying your data over if you want a clean install of macOS.


Pop the bottom off, unscrew some bracket, pull a cable off. Move the screw/pegs from the HDD to the SSD, then pop it in.

iFixit Guide:

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+15-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2009+Hard+Drive+Replacement/1715

You can skip the part about removing the battery. It isn't necessary to pull the HDD. Just make sure to lift the hard drive slowly so that you don't pull its cable.

I recommend the Samsung EVO, 250GB, 500GB, etc. And don't forget to enable TRIM.

You can use the built-in Disk Utility to clone ("image") your HDD to the SSD. You just need a USB adapter for that.

250 GB SSD, $93:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OAJ412U/

Port-powered SATA/USB (should work fine for external SSDs), $12.50:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/

u/bemental_ · 5 pointsr/USMC

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a3LSAbPG98N78

If you don’t have an Amazon Prime account, do yourself a favor and get one.

u/SirTaphos · 5 pointsr/hacking

Buy (or borrow) a USB to SATA cable https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
This will allow access to the harddrive if the data is not encrypted.
Best of luck.

u/starfishbzdf · 5 pointsr/Lenovo

If you get a USD to SATA adapter you can clone/transfer files directly from the HDD to SSD.

u/HeckMaster9 · 5 pointsr/PUBGXboxOne

You don't need to spend that much. This Sandisk 240GB model along with this SATA III to USB 3 cable will do just as well for less money, but it won't look as pretty lol.

u/AQMessiah · 5 pointsr/computertechs
  • USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA - Super important if you're pulling drives and want to test them in another computer, or simply want to run data recovery software

  • Solid all around toolbox program

  • Hard Disk Sentinel HD health and temp program. Trial version is free but well worth a purchase.

  • Buy a bunch of 4GB USB's and make Windows 7, 8, 10, MAC OSX images using Rufus

  • Use ninite.com for a quick and simple installation of essential programs
u/alek_hiddel · 4 pointsr/techsupport

Recently did this very thing on my wife's laptop.

This cable http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00, and a thumb drive with Clonezilla installed is all it took (http://clonezilla.org/). Took about 30 minutes to clone the drive, then physically swapped in the new SSD. 0 problems encountered.

There are plenty of youtube videos that will walk you through the clonezilla process step by step.

u/YouSayToStay · 4 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

If you're encrypting your drives and even you can't pull the data if the drive is removed, you're not doing a good thing imo. The data should just be a SATA-to-USB cable and security key away.

u/geneorama · 4 pointsr/linuxquestions

Git is awesome, but switching to Linux is its own project. Limit your scope and focus on one thing.

I would strongly consider getting a new hard drive, like an SSD if you don't already have one.

Take out your old drive and install Linux fresh on the new one. Then access your old files from the old drive via a stata cable.

Invariably there will be stuff you forget, like you personal macro workbook in Excel, or that one folder that you put right on your c drive.

Your total investment will be less than $100 and you'll be a lot happier (and you can switch back if you have an unexpected problem, options are valuable!)

Stata cable example StarTech.com USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP – SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable

u/bigdizizzle · 4 pointsr/linuxquestions

My first reaction is, you have 760 gb of data that apparently... isn't backed up? Because if it was, you wouldn't be asking this question... so , that's something really you should deal with.

Second thought it a crossover cable will do exactly what you want to do, but what might be easier (and definitely faster) would be to purchase a sata toaster or at least a sata to usb cable, pull the drive from the old computer, connect by cable and copy the data over.

Edit -> something like this
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/Shadowhawk109 · 4 pointsr/CFBOffTopic

(you never have to start from scratch -- use a USB-to-IDE/SATA cable and mount your dying drive like its external storage. Rescue documents from there.)

u/xdanish · 4 pointsr/HighQualityGifs

No backup? How dead is the drive, it could be recoverable (or at least some of the data)

I'd suggest getting this SATA to USB 3.0 adapter and pick up/buy/torrent Wondershare Data Recovery

Best of luck, I'll miss your terrific gifs in the interim

u/el_californio · 3 pointsr/computers

Man, I just did this a few weeks ago. I got rid of the DVD drive and moved the 1TB HDD that it came with over to where the DVD drive was at and installed the Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD where the 1TB drive is now, that's because the connector where the HDD is now connected to is SATA III vs SATA I where the DVD drive is at. In other words if you want to better speeds remove the HDD and put the SSD in, then if you want the extra storage space (1TB) remove the DVD drive and put in the HDD there using a caddy.

I found myself needed the DVD drive ZERO (0) times since I've bought the laptop but everyone is different. By the way I highly recommend upgrading the RAM as well, it cost an extra $58 but it's totally worth it. My laptop, fully loaded with Norton 360, Office 2013 Pro, Adobe Acrobat X Pro, and all my other programs boots up in about 7 seconds. Here is the parts I used..

USB to SATA III cable

RAM

You need a T5 screwdriver to remove the screws to get into where the components are, I bought this set because it's handy for other things as well. BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU LOOSEN AND TIGHTEN THOSE SCREWS, THEY STRIP EASILY. Don't tighten them like the lug nuts on your car, TRUST ME!
Just use the cable and the software that came with the SSD to migrate the OS over from the HDD to the SSD, it's that easy!! If you want I can find the caddy that I used to replace the DVD drive, mine fits perfectly but I had to buy 2 because the first one was the wrong one. The outer plastic shell would not fit on the first one, but the second one fits perfectly. I can even post pictures showing you where the parts are located once you open the laptop.. Let me know, and I hope this helped!

*Edit - Found the Caddy

u/rauz · 3 pointsr/applehelp

That's a SATA drive so you need a USB to SATA cable. Something like this.

u/bungabungachakachaka · 3 pointsr/macbookpro

you need something like this: sata to usb 3.0 cable or if you intend to use the harddrive as an external something like this*

u/ATSIG · 3 pointsr/computers

This would be a two piece setup but it supports PCIe m.2 nvme drives. It also has m key support. The first part is the drive adapter and the second is the adapter from the adapter to USB. It comes out to about 45.96 not including shipping for both parts.

https://www.amazon.com/Startech-M-2-U-2-Adapter-Interface/dp/B073W65QX6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504427625&sr=1-1&keywords=pcie+m.2+enclosure+nvme

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G63VTGMKHZPAMDF3K5BS

u/radioslave · 3 pointsr/london

That should be fine, usually if your boot record is trashed you can still get the data off with a sata to USB cable which you can buy from Maplins or Amazon for decently cheap. (https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84)

Even if your boot record is FUBAR'd then you can learn up on Ubuntu and usually get anything back with that.

u/lord-carlos · 3 pointsr/VideoEditing

For that price you can almost get an external 500GB SSD.

An Internal 500GB you can get from about ~140 USD, maybe you are lucky and find an external on sale somewhere.

250GB SSD is most definitely in the budget.

Edit: Haha, just maybe this combination works: Sata to USB3 + 500GB SSD

u/FRATCH · 3 pointsr/DestinyTheGame
u/boisteroushero · 3 pointsr/techsupport

I would play it safe--if you're concerned about data, before doing anything with the laptop, pull the HDD out, assure it has no liquid and keep it in a warm dry space for a little while. Then use a SATA -> USB connector to back the files up to another computer before attempting to power it on inside a potentially wet/damaged laptop.

As for the laptop itself, I'd look into potentially disassembling it as much as you can (look for guides on this and be very careful of thin, breakable cables), and wiping down components that you see beer on carefully, with 91% isopropyl alcohol and a lint/dust free cloth or q-tip. Beer is yeasty and sticky, so you'll want to get it off any components. Isopropyl alcohol as pure as possible is my go-to for component cleaning because it's generally safe on plastics and dries very quickly from electrical components.

u/Mindless_Art · 3 pointsr/mac

> Also I want to remove and install the old hdd or even a new ssd what adapter would I need?

No adapter needed for the install itself. Drives of 2.5" form factor fit right in. You are going to need a screw driver and the drive, nothing else.

However, I assume you want to clone your current OS to the new drive or create a Time Machine backup before installing the new drive, don’t you? In this case, you are going to need a SATA-to-USB adapter like this:

  •   https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84<br />


    There are two different ways to go about this:

  • Put the SSD into that adapter, connect it to your Mac while inside that adapter, and clone your current OS setup to it via a program like Carbon Copy Cloner. Adapter needed in this case.
  • If you have an external HDD somewhere in your house, create a Time Machine Backup onto that external HDD. Then remove your internal HDD, replace it with the SSD, do Internet Recovery, and restore your data from that Time Machine Backup to the new SSD. No adapter needed in this case.

    &gt; And last but not least the ram he told me that Kingston HyperX 8GB RAM 1600MHz is compatible but I have this feeling that my Mac will not work with that one? Maybe a different RAM anyone could recommend me?

    Your MacBook Pro will need RAM modules that match the following specification:

    PC3-10600 DDR3 1333 MHz, 204-pin

    Those RAM modules should work, for example:

  • https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Certified-Laptop-Memory-CMSA16GX3M2A1333C9/dp/B006ON5KZC
  • https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-10600-SODIMM-LAPTOP-MEMORY/dp/B0067GGPXC

    Your MacBook Pro supports up to 16 GB RAM (2 x 8 GB RAM modules). A higher amount won’t work due to a limitation in the logic board. Make sure you use both RAM slots instead of just a single one, as using a single one when you could use both comes with a (albeit small) performance penalty. So it is better to go for e.g. 2 x 4 GB modules instead of just 1 x 8 GB module.

    These videos show you the procedure:

    HDD replacement:

  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Md8grI-mGVA

    RAM upgrade:

  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCV4ijq9VHQ

    In case you want to replace the DVD drive with your old HDD, here is how to do that:

  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CI9OKUbmRdQ

u/walk1355 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

What you have described is installing a SSD and putting a fresh install of windows on it. This means that you will have to reinstall any programs, reconfigure preferences, settings, etc. that are on your computer now.

Contrary to some of the below comments, you do NOT have to reinstall windows like this if you don't want to. Cloning the drive will work 100% and will potentially save you time and headache.

I have personally used (4 different times) the Samsung Data Migration software when installing a Samsung SSD into a current system and it has been successful 100% of the time and is VERY easy to use.

  1. Boot your PC into windows with the current harware.
  2. Plug your new SSD into a USB port using a SATA to USB Adapter - I have this one - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
  3. Run the Samsung data migration software and follow the prompt to clone the HDD onto the new SSD.
  4. Turn off PC
  5. Remove HDD and install SSD
  6. You are done, enjoy a beer and reading the /r/pcmasterrace
u/InquisativeMind · 3 pointsr/techsupport
u/UpTheSkramz · 3 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Bro just get an actual 2.5" adapter, they're like $10

StarTech.com USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP – SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wtc9BbG8K3VR0

u/PhoenixReborn · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Any laptop. I'd suggest one of these so you can mount it like a USB drive.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/lovelyspecimen · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/sam66958 · 3 pointsr/mac

You will need to remove the hard drive and put it in an enclosure or use a USB sata adapte. Here is a link for removing the drive. https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Early+2011+Hard+Drive+Replacement/5119

Here is a link for a cheap USB sata adapter for $12. StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QFKPybZWC5D1P

You could also buy this external drive for $80. It is fairly easy to open and remove the drive. Then when you have recovered your files you can reinstall the new disk and continue using it as a backup drive so you don't have this issue in the future. You may have to formate the new drive for mac. Seagate Expansion 2TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEA2000400) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uJKPyb5C9BAPK

u/theknyte · 3 pointsr/techsupportgore

Or it could just be a cable adapter like this.
I use this one to test laptop drive pulls at work from older machine that are getting tossed to see if the drives can be reused. Windows just sees an external drive plugged in, and you can run SMART or any other drive testing software you want, or just use the drive as a spare. This also works for adding external drive space on your PS4 or XB1 as well.

u/Yui-Kitamura · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Could be that your CPU is dead. It would allow the laptop to show a power light but never actually turn on in any way.

Just get a basic external sata connector and take the hard drive out of the laptop, connect it to a different computer and transfer the files. Something like thisshould work perfectly fine.

u/anoymaly2152 · 3 pointsr/osugame

well, there actually are SATA to USB cables, but I suppose it'll be easier (and cheaper, duh) to do what Graguan suggested

P.S. dont refer to a laptop as PC, as PC stands for personal computer, or a desktop (that's why i suggested that idea im the first place)

u/flaming_m0e · 3 pointsr/linuxquestions

Why not just an ssd with a USB adapter? Would certainly be better for lifespan.

Something like this: StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IuftxbXK8EBP4

I have a friend that uses one of those for a Windows 10 install that he can carry around for when he needs it.

u/spoofshadow · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

Being a laptop I am assuming it is a 2.5 inch sata drive this right here would save you a big head ache. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;qid=1565207854&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3

It would allow you to remove that drive and plug it into a different computer allow you to hopefully recover your data.

u/U_ColonelPanix · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Yes and no. That one wouldn't work but there are products like it that have the 22-pin sata connections that HDD and SSDs use. Also make sure to get a USB 3.0 or 3.1 model.
They also make enclosures that fit 2.5" (laptop size) drives so that you can turn them into portable hard drives.

Let's see I should have the one that i bought in my amaz history...
Yep. It's out of stock now. But here's a similar one.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/

Out of curiosity what are you using it for?

u/kamihack · 3 pointsr/Rockband

That’s pricey, but I have to say it’s worth it.

My setup is:

  • this USB to SATA III cable

  • this cheap 256GB SSD drive

    Improvement is seen when the game is searching for DLC, though my main motivation was loading times in “The Witcher 3”

    That cable I can’t recommend because after a couple of years, it needs a replacement, apparently it broke internally and it works only when placed in a certain position.

    Your solution looks like a better idea if you don’t mind the price. Make sure the cable for that device is easily replaceable.
u/geroge314 · 3 pointsr/applehelp

I have this same laptop and it's working perfectly well after upgrading both the RAM and the SSD. Upgrading to an SSD will greatly decrease the boot time of the laptop and adding more RAM will help to make the laptop snappier overall. The first step I would take would be to put an SSD in the laptop, especially considering the horribly long boot times you're experiencing, but both will

Adding RAM will be the easiest change for your laptop, as it doesn't require any transferring of files. I personally have 16 GB of ram in my laptop (2 x 8GB) but in the interest of saving money, you may want to get one 8GB stick of RAM and upgrade again down the line if you desire. When shopping for RAM, you want to make sure that you have a SODIMM sized stick, and that it's running at 1600 MHz speed. Here is an option from Amazon, but you may be able to find other options for cheaper (this was just the first thing I found). You just want to ensure that the RAM you buy is a SODIMM module and is running at 1600 MHz. Assuming the 4GB is in the form of 2 x 2GB sticks, you will have 10 GB of RAM total after installing the new module.

You can easily find videos on how to install RAM on the internet, but as a quick explanation:

  • Turn your computer off
  • Remove all the screws from the bottom of the MacBook, there should be 10 and they're all Phillips.
  • Pull off the back of the laptop
  • You should see RAM modules above the battery at the bottom of the laptop
  • There are two tabs that you can pull on to release the RAM from its socket, it should pop up at an angle and you can pull it out. There will most likely be another stick of RAM under it, you should leave it be.
  • You want to put the new stick of RAM in at the same angle that the old one came out at, aligning the notch of the slot to the notched hole in the RAM stick, and then push it down so it's sitting as the original RAM stick was.
  • Put the back cover on and rescrew the screws. Note that the 3 long screws go in the part of the back nearest to the screen hinge.

    You should now be able to go to "About the Mac" then to Memory, and see a 2GB and 8GB (if you get an 8GB stick) module show up.


    As for the SSD, it can be a bit more complicated depending on how you want to go about doing it. If you care about all of the data on your old drive, you can clone it using a cloning software. If not, you can copy important files onto a flash drive or external hard drive to paste back into the new installation of macOS.

    But first, you need to get the SSD itself. The Samsung 850 Evo is very well liked across the internet and the drive that I personally used. You can get it in whatever capacity you need. That being said, there are other options of SSDs that will be less expensive while still being a massive upgrade over the spinning disk drive that you likely already have. If you do searching around the internet, the only thing you need to be careful of is that the SSD has a SATA connector and isn't a m.2 drive. You'll also need a SATA to USB cable like This

    The way I would recommend replacing the drive would be to do a fresh install of macOS, keeping a backup of your important files.

    You want to start by plugging the SSD into the SATA to USB cable and the cable into your laptop. Then, open Disk Utility (either by using a spotlight search or finding it in the "Other" folder of the application display (hit the F4 function key)) Once you have disk utility open, you want to find the SSD on the left drop-down menu and erase it. This will format it to be usable as a boot disk for macOS. Note: it's possible that it will work without doing this but I am unsure and think it would be good to be safe here to save the time of having to change it.

    As with the RAM, you can probably easily find a video showing how to do it, but I will also list the rest of the steps as I remember them.
  • Turn the laptop off
  • Unscrew the screws of the back cover
  • Take off the back cover. The hard drive should be beside the battery at the bottom and held in by black brackets on the top and bottom. To unscrew them, you just need a small Phillips screwdriver.
  • Once you've unscrewed them, you can pull off the top of both black brackets and pull out the drive. Be careful not to damage the ribbon cables!
  • Disconnect the SATA power and SATA data connectors at the end of the ribbon cable on the drive.
  • Unscrew the four screws holding the drive in the bracket.
  • Pull the drive out and put the new drive in and screw it back in like the old one was
  • Do the steps taken to remove the old drive in reverse to secure the new drive into place.

    Once the new drive is in, you can reboot the laptop and hit the Option key to bring up a boot menu. You should see something that says "Choose a Network" and you can sign into your WiFi to continue. From there you will able to use network recovery to reinstall macOS.


    I hope this is helpful and good luck! I'm glad I'm not the only one still using a 2012 MBP :)

    edit: formatting, a word
u/Delphiantares · 3 pointsr/OneTruthPrevails

you can use this teardown to get to the harddrive and stick it into a desktop or use a Sata to usb adaptor, or a enclosure to get at your files from another computer

u/mredofcourse · 2 pointsr/apple

This is the fastest method.

It's also one of the safest methods and the easiest method. Plus, you get to verify that the new drive is working before putting it into your Mac. That's not really such big deal on a MBP 2011 since the drives are so easy to swap, but on other Macs making sure the drive is working properly can be a really good idea.

Also, you can get an external drive cable/adapter for like $13. This works great if you don't want an enclosure for the drive, but not advisable if you want a portable drive, in which case you want an enclosure.


Another option if the OP no longer wants the optical drive is to remove the optical drive and swap it with a HDD bracket and the old HDD drive. Then they can just clone from the old HDD drive internally to the new SSD.

You can also get an enclosure for the old optical drive making it a portable external optical drive.

u/chedar24 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

U can do a fresh install on the ssd but I wouldn't boot with both plugged in you can get one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427610497&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41RFQc9vgIL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch after the install is done and you boot to get your files off hope this helps

u/m477z0r · 2 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

You definitely can plug in any old SSD. I'm connecting my old Samsung EVO 840 to my Xbox via a USB 3.0 to SATA adapter and some duct tape.

I haven't gone out of my way to do any timed testing, but anecdotally my buddies and clanmates all notice that I load in considerably faster than they do.

u/doggxyo · 2 pointsr/freenas

I use two Kingston 240gb SSDs in mirror once booting from flash drives were no longer being recommended. I know 240gb is way too big for what I need, but compared to smaller sizes - it didn't make sense to me to buy smaller.

My Dell R720XD has internal SATA ports but they are disabled... and I didn't want to dedicate two drive bays for boot disks - so I bought a pair of these SATA to USB cables, and haven't had an issue. One is attached to the server's internal USB port and the other SSD is inside the chasis too, plugged into a back USB port - and the cable is fed through an empty PCIe slot.

u/Jeffbx · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Ouch. Lots of drive failures today.

OK, unplug it &amp; let it rest and cool down a bit, then try again.

Next step after that would be to remove it from the case &amp; connect it with another adapter - if you're lucky, could be that something in the enclosure just went bad. You'd need a cable like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84?ref_=sr_1_4&amp;amp;qid=1449153864

u/Things_That_Go_Boom · 2 pointsr/battlefield_one

I bought a Samsung 850 EVO and converter cable (didn't bother with the enclosure), works great!

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OBRE5UE/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/

u/dmoening · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I am guessing your SSD is a SATA drive and not PCI...I use these when transferring data from drives

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417113394&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40

u/JakeRadden · 2 pointsr/techsupport

If you can avoid using the laptop until then, no. I'd recommend getting a sata to USB adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1498148482&amp;amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;amp;psc=1

Remove the HDD from the laptop and use the desktop to transfer to the new external. That way you aren't relying on the laptop HDD to also run the OS.

That's probably your best bet.

u/XStraightEdgeX · 2 pointsr/macbookpro

I upgraded my Mid-2010 15" MBP earlier this year, added 4 more GB of ram and added a 1 TB SanDisk Ultra II SSD. Let me tell you - the damn thing runs like a new computer, and still does almost a year later. Starts up in seconds, almost never have lag, it's never crashed, etc. It's lifechanging.

One of these will be your best bet for transferring between your old hard drive to your new hard drive. There are plenty of step by step instructional guides on doing the replacement yourself, it was actually much easier than I thought it would be.

If you have the ability to upgrade your RAM, I'd recommend going ahead and doing that while you're at it. Good luck!

u/NormanKnight · 2 pointsr/mac

First thing is to format the SSD using Disk Utility. That's already on your Mac.

Use Time Machine to backup your existing drive. Then clean install OS X on the SSD, and restore from Time Machine.

One of these cables will make it all much easier, especially if you don't have a spare external drive. With this cable, you can skip several hops when moving stuff.

u/xLongDickStyle · 2 pointsr/applehelp

You can remove the hardrive and get something like this. Connect it to your Macbook and it transfer the data.

u/raj_prakash · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I use these with 2.5"SSDs

StarTech.com USB3S2SAT3CB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_3dn.AbWBZTAF8

u/Radle · 2 pointsr/applehelp

I know this does not directly answer either one of your questions, but it will address both of the concerns you have.

Just use something like SuperDuper to copy your current drive onto the drive you want to replace. The free version should do the job just fine.

This way, when you install the new drive it will be like nothing has changed. It's the least amount of hassle.

In order to be able to write to the SSD before you physically install it, you will need either a disk enclosure, or a SATA to USB cable. Should not cost more than $15.

  1. Plug the SSD to your Macbook using the cable mentioned above or an enclosure.
  2. Format your SSD using Disk Utilities to match the same settings as your current drive.
  3. Use super duper to copy your current HD contents onto the SSD.
  4. Power off the Macbook and replace the HD with the SSD.

    Let me know if that makes sense and if you need any help with any of the steps.
u/Plastonick · 2 pointsr/applehelp

I'm not 100% sure, but can't you just get a temporary SATA - USB cable?

Like this http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/Busangod · 2 pointsr/applehelp

I was pretty nervous too about the upgrade, but just take your time watch a bunch of youtube how-to's and I would suggest taking a look at this walk through: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+15-Inch+Unibody+Early+2011+Hard+Drive+Replacement/5895

Things you'll need that aren't on that page are one of these, SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable

the tools I bought this one. Comes in a nice case and has everything you need

the hard drive. I already linked to the one I chose, but there are other options

and if you want to keep the old drive as a back up, you'll need one of these

I got my ram a while back so I don't have a direct link, but make sure you're getting the kind that will work with her machine. There are plenty of online guides and the question has been asked/answered here more than a couple times, but if you get overwhelmed just throw up another post. People here are generally great.

Not really endorsing any of these things over the competition, just trying to be helpful. Good luck. It's an AMAZING improvement once it's done!

u/LittleHelperRobot · 2 pointsr/techsupport
u/babalou522 · 2 pointsr/macbookpro

Thank you all so much for the advice. I finally pulled the trigger this weekend and upgraded my mac and the difference is incredible. It would normally take up to 5 minutes for my mac to fully turn on and login. Now its under 30 seconds!

For those looking to do the same thing here's what I did:

  1. Crucial MX500 1TB SSD drive : https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B077SF8KMG
  2. NewerTech NuPower Battery: https://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech/BAP15MBU78W/#owctabs
  3. Sata to USB Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
  4. A computer tool kit. (I already had one, but any basic kit will do) Heres one I found that seems fine: https://www.amazon.com/Kingsdun-Precision-Screwdriver-Repair-MacBook/dp/B01E9RLF1W/ref=sr_1_28?crid=2GIVKIC5PVMUC&amp;keywords=laptop+screwdriver+kit&amp;qid=1555941998&amp;s=electronics&amp;sprefix=laptop+scre%2Celectronics%2C130&amp;sr=1-28
  5. Flash drive with at least 8gb space and USB 3.0 for speed: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-Transfer-Speeds-s-SDCZ48-032G-UAM46/dp/B00KYK2AKO/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?crid=1JNUES6V59YY3&amp;keywords=32gb+flash+drive+3.0&amp;pd_rd_i=B00KYK2AKO&amp;pd_rd_r=e3b71c2f-31f3-48ca-b07c-83203b9d1fe4&amp;pd_rd_w=DdDhT&amp;pd_rd_wg=sef5B&amp;pf_rd_p=eadd3af5-2f5b-4e14-9c3d-ff9268352f18&amp;pf_rd_r=N5T0Q3BEBVJ8CDMW226Q&amp;qid=1555942155&amp;s=electronics&amp;sprefix=32gb+flash+dri%2Celectronics%2C122

    &amp;#x200B;

    How to upgrade your Mid-2012 15-Inch MacBook Pro


    Step 1 - Backup your files
    For me this took the longest, I'm not the most organized person. I also saved my keychain, apple mail logins, stickeys, etc. I was in the middle of projects that I needed to jump right back into after the upgrade.

    Step 2 - Create a macOS installer on the USB drive
    Follow this ---&gt; https://9to5mac.com/2018/10/22/how-to-create-macos-mojave-usb-installer-easy-video/


    Step 3 - Plug the new harddrive in via Sata cable usb
    This is where my first issue came into play. I skipped ahead and swapped out my harddrives only to try and boot up and my system not recognize the new SSD. I first thought I purchased a dud. The truth is you need to format the new drive for the computer to see it. Plug in the new SSD and follow these instructions to erase and format. I chose Mac OS Extended (journaled) https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208496

    NOTE::: you dont have to use the usb drive, you can install the new SSD first if you want and format from the bootable USB.


    Step 4 - Install the new SSD
    Follow this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfiGF_pjqvM

    When installed, hold Option on your keyboard and then turn on. Select the USB macOS installer and follow instructions. Install onto the new SSD. Should take 20-30 min

    &amp;#x200B;

    Step 5 - The Battery

    Follow the instructions in the videos on this page: https://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech/BAP15MBU78W/#owctabs
    Make sure you set aside some time to do this. The install is very fast however its the calibration that takes some time. After you install your new battery, turn the computer on to test, there should be a little charge in it. Shut your computer down and then plug in. Let it fully charge, the light on plug should turn green. Then leave it for another 2 hours. Turn the computer on, unplug, turn all power settings off (follow video) and let the computer run until the battery is completely dead. Then wait a number of hours. This will calibrate your battery with your system.

    &amp;#x200B;

    Then plug in and enjoy your new laptop!

u/GolldenFalcon · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I haven't heard any noises come from the drive in, ever. That's why I'm so surprised. It hasn't degraded over time, no performance issues before this. Wasn't running slow or anything, it just suddenly went poof and it's just gone.

I got recommended by a friend to get one of these (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/) to try it outside of my case while my machine is running. Not sure if trying this would be worth it or Data Recovery could be worth it either. I'm not entirely sure of the price point of Data Recovery versus how important the stuff is on my drive. It's definitely inconvenient that it doesn't work anymore, but from what I recall right now there's nothing that's mission critical on it.

u/yadda4sure · 2 pointsr/mac
u/Antananarivo · 2 pointsr/xboxone

You mean something like this?

u/WhereIsFiber · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

&gt; How are you planning to connect it though?

Using StarTech's cable with speedier UASP, but if you have a better suggestion, I'm all ears:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1506778558&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=sata+iii+cable+usb+3.0

u/catroaring · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Even if the laptop is dead you might still be able to recover the drive. Dependent on the drive you can pull it and use something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1503458323&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=sata+usb+adapter) for a SATA drive, or [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Cablecc-22pin-Combo-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00S6AHQBM/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1503458482&amp;amp;sr=1-11&amp;amp;keywords=pcie+ssd+adapter) for mSATA/M.2 drive.

I've pulled a drive from a surface that went in the wash for the whole cycle. It still worked.

u/Dalarrus · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Actually, I suppose it would depend on the hard drive, if you have a really old one, it would be IDE like that one, but if it's from the past ~10 years, it'd be SATA, and you'd want something like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1503217452&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=SATA+to+USB

u/ottermann · 2 pointsr/applehelp

The SATA connection is standard on most drives these days. (some manufaturers, Apple....I'm looking at you....have proprietary connections)
The Connections on your drive are standard. I use a SATA drive docking station on my desk at work for data transfers, but if you're only looking to copy the data off the drive, a SATA to USB cable would be fine. This is the one that's in my tool bag for when I go on site.

u/macontrack · 2 pointsr/mac

Time Machine restores the backup to a fresh install of MacOS, to make it easy to reinstall, and migrate your data to a new computer. The backups are not bootable, so you you need to install the OS before restoring.

If you want to port your disk from you HD to and SSD in one move, you can use Superduper and copy the whole drive to the SSD before installing it using a USB to SATA cable, keep in mind the HD and SSD needs to be the same size if not more as to fit all of the data.

u/crapperkeeper · 2 pointsr/techsupport

&gt; Is there a way to quickly connect the HDD to my laptop,

You'll need something like an external enclosure or a SATA to USB adapter to be able to connect it to your laptop. The enclosure/docking station I listed is a bit overkill as it works with both 2.5" and 3.5" disk drives. You can save almost half the price if you get a dedicated 2.5" OR 3.5" dedicated enclosure.

&gt; permanently delete the already deleted files, then disconnect it and put it back where he had it?

Assuming you can get the HDD connected to your laptop, the free version of CCeaner has the capability to permanently remove those "deleted" files that still reside on the drive. Here's a youtube video showing how it's done (sorry the guy is a little hard to understand, but I think you'll get the idea). Good luck and feel free to ask questions should you have any.

u/ballr4lyf · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If it's going in to startup repair, the drive itself is not dead... Yet.

When you get your computer rebuilt with the new hardware, you can use something like this to connect your old HDD so you can browse it and recover your files.

u/joecamel_ · 2 pointsr/computers

This is what you're looking for.

There are other options but this one is pretty inexpensive.

u/no_step · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Physically remove the hard drive, buy or borrow a USB to SATA adapter, hook it up to another windows computer, and pull your files. Then run a chkdsk to scan the drive

u/MeIsMyName · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

This is the one I bought that works well. I went through reviews before I bought it to confirm that it works with Samsung SSDs.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/

u/Vortax_Wyvern · 2 pointsr/qnap

Ok, I really like the advice of /u/zottelbeyer

, but I will try to give my own. Just remember: There is never enough storage space.

My current setup: TS-673 with 2x512GB M.2 SSD RAID 1 as system volume + 4x10TB HDD RAID 6 ad storage volume, with intention of expanding up to 6x10TB as I need more space. Synology DS218J with 1x10TB+1x3TB HDD JBOD used as backup unit.

First: I personally don't think I'd use RAID 10 when I can use RAID 6. RAID 6 offer better drive protection than RAID 10, so yes, I'd also switch to RAID 6.

Second: Backup in the same machine is not considered backup. There are tons of things that can destroy all drives in a case at same time. For example:

https://old.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/dc8hda/nearly_lost_all_my_data/

So, The fact that you are backuping your main RAID 10 data into a different 8TB drive inside the same NAS means that you are in fact not performing any backup at all. One ransomware infection will destroy the totality of your data.

Ok, now, let's dive in.

Currently, the sweet spot of cost/storage are located in 8TB drives, but slowly switching to 10TB. Personally, I'd go with 10 or 12 TB drives. You can get 10TB WD red drives for 189€ (WD element drives shucked). With 5x10TB drives in RAID 6 you get 30TB (27.3 TB of usable space). If you use RAID 5 (more about that later), you can bump up to 40TB (36.4 TB of usable space). That is 5 times what you currently have, and without need to buy a new enclosure. That is leaving your 6th bay as offsite for the other user.

Right now, IMHO there is no reason to stick with lots and lots of low storage drive. Get fewer with higher capacity. Prices have dropped enough.

You have also to take into account that bay space is also an important issue. That makes in the end bigger drives more valuable that small drives.

You can start increasing your drive count slowly, and adding more drives as your space needs increase.

About backups: I really encourage you to move your backup outside your TVS-673. If you go the bigger drive route you will have 4TB drives spare (your current RAID array) that you can use to perform backup. I used this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Docking-Station-Support/dp/B0099TX7O4/

or a cheaper version:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/

Connect your drive, then you can create a backup job to store your important files on it, and then disconnect it and store it away. Repeat with each drive you want. Perform a new backup once a week. In case of NAS destroy, you have full backup available.

I personally prefer to use another cheap NAS to automatically perform backups, but that means spending some more money. About RAID 0 backups, it's not ideal, but it is doable. RAID is not backup, is intended to reduce downtime. Strictly speaking, you don't need RAID if you are willing to assume downtime while you restore from your backups. So, RAID 0 (or JBOD) is acceptable as backup plan. Yes, if one drive of your backup fails, you lose everything, but it is a backup. All you have to do is switch the failing drive and recreate the backup from scratch. Pretty straight forward and it doesn't risk your data. Since your main data is a RAID array, in case of failure of your backup RAID 0, you still have tolerance for at least another drive failure (RAID 5) or even two (RAID 6) in your main array.

  • Main RAID 1, 5 or 6 + Backup RAID 0 or JBOD: Ok
  • Main RAID 0, JBOD or non array + Backup RAID 1, 5 or 6: OK
  • Main RAID 0, JBOD or non array + Backup RAID 0 or JBOD: NOPE

    Finally, if you decide to go "full datahoard mode" (rack server, +10 bays, ZFS or BTRFS , etc) then by all means, go to /r/DataHoarder and /r/homelab. Tons of useful advice there.

    In case you go this route, then yes, get a nice rack, set ZFS, and use your TVS-673 as an expensive backup NAS to keep your data safe. I personally use borg backup, but ZFS has a nice snapshot backup utility with incremental copy.

    Sorry for the wall of text. I think I addressed most of your concerns, right?
u/SukkerFar · 2 pointsr/techsupport

If I were you I would buy a device like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1478523093&amp;amp;sr=8-1

Or if you already have a SATA external harddrive, you could replace the hdd in that with the one from your pc.

eSATA and mSATA is not what you have. And the 1,2,3 is just different speeds.

u/Viiggo · 2 pointsr/techsupport

USB supplies up to 5v, that's all you need to power SSD. Not sure what cable do you have but on far end, it needs to cover both data and power connector. like this

u/OSPFv3 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Check if the laptop has a 2nd drive bay if you intend to clone your current drive to it.

If it doesn't have a 2nd drive bay you can use a USB to sata adapter temporarily.

u/f0fsf0fs · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Looking for a sata to usb 3.0 adapter for ~$15. I found this:

https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-3-0-Inch-UASP-SATA-Converter-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84

Just wondering if there's anything else

u/panterra74055 · 2 pointsr/mac

The easiest way to transfer the data from the old macbook is to pull the hard drive out and connect it to an external USB to SATA adapter like this one i've linked below. Bestbuy also has an enclosure that does the same. Also if I'm correct, you wont be able to access the data from the Mac's hard drive on a windows PC and therefore will require the hard drive be plugged into another mac. From there the data can be copied to an exfat formatted USB or external hard drive, then transferred to the Asus.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1493534934&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=usb+to+sata:

u/pinumbernumber · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I assume it has your old files on it. It wouldn't make sense if it were anything else.

You need to buy this cable. If you need to find it somewhere else, the search term you need is "usb to sata". You do not need the full dock/enclosure that others have recommended; the cable is fine and more convenient to use.

u/itsmeurbrothr · 2 pointsr/techsupport

yep that should do the trick as well. your data will be fine, assuming theres nothing wrong with the drive. usb feeds enough power for it to see the hard drive is there, it just doesnt supply enough to physically spin up the platters to read the data. i assume you are using something similar to this? https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/

u/KJatWork · 2 pointsr/techsupport

If you didn't have any surge protection, it is very likely toast.

You can always pull it out and try something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1499811816&amp;amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;amp;keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;amp;psc=1

to see if you can recover anything.

u/VladimirPuto · 2 pointsr/techsupport

That means the hard drive cable is bad, or the hard drive is so broken that OS X can't detect it.

Replacing the cable is less straightforward than the hard drive, but still possible. iFixit have a guide and sell the replacement part.

You can connect the drive to another computer with something like this adapter, but if it's connected to a Windows computer, you won't be able to access the contents without a third-party utility, due to the Mac OS filesystem.

u/Remo_253 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You may be able to save your data. Take the drive out and connect it to another PC as a secondary drive. If you don't have a desktop available with a spare SATA slot you can use a USB adapter like this one on Amazon, StarTech.com USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter.

If the drive is recognized immediately start backing up your files, you may only get one chance at this. If you used the default save location for Windows your files will be in the folder /Users/your user ID/.

The buzzing means it's dying, if not dead. It could be that it just can't access the files needed to boot, they're corrupted, but your files are still there.

If it's not recognized then I'm afraid you're SOL and will need a professional recovery service, which is damn expensive.

Once you've replaced the drive this would be a good time to think about doing regular backups in the future.

Good luck.

u/JagSKX · 2 pointsr/laptops

Yes, you need to either buy a USB to SATA cable or an external hard drive dock. The cable is for a temporary connection while a hard drive dock will allow you to install any 2.5" hard drive / SSD or a 3.5" hard drive for extra storage and is a more permanent solution. The Samsung SSD comes with cloning software.

&amp;#x200B;

Here's an example of a USB to SATA cable for $11 which is for 2.5" SATA drives and USB 3.0 USB-A).

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542081067&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+to+sata+adapter

&amp;#x200B;

Here's an example of a dual bay hard drive dock which allows you to insert 2.5" or 3.5" drives and supports drives up to 8TB for $34. It seems the make and model I purchased earlier this year has been discontinued.

https://www.amazon.com/d/Laptop-Docking-Stations/WEme-Dual-Bay-External-Duplicator-Tool-Free/B00PTUQE4M/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542081231&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=unitek+hard+drive+dock&amp;psc=1

&amp;#x200B;

The steps should be pretty simple.

  1. Connect the SSD to the adapter / dock.
  2. Then connect it to the USB port.
  3. Power up the laptop and the SSD should be detected by the laptop.
  4. Install the Samsung Magician software and use that to clone the hard drive to the SSD.
  5. Once complete, shut down the laptop.
  6. Disconnect the adapter / dock.
  7. Refer to above video on how to remove the HDD and replace it with the SSD.

    &amp;#x200B;
u/DeeGeeFi · 2 pointsr/laptops

Looks like normal 2.5" SATA connectors to me. You might also need this cable to transfer your old files from the HDD to the SSD.

u/Sound_0f_Silence · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The HDD pic you linked looks like a like a caddy. Have you removed the drive from the plastic housing? If you have removed post a pic of the connections.

Considering the age of the laptop my guess is the drive inside the caddy uses a 2.5" 44pin IDE type interface. If it does, you have some options to access the data.

You can use this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-INCH-Drive-Converter-EC-AHDD/dp/B0758RP5V8?th=1

Or this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Laptop-Drive-Adapter-Female-Connect/dp/B0185LC04Y

Combined with this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/

You could also just use the 2nd adapter and connect it to a PC's internal SATA connectror.






u/PracticalPersonality · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

Atombios is the firmware that interfaces directly with your video card. Either your firmware is corrupt, or the video card (most likely the RAM on it) is borked.

It's a T400, so that's pretty old. RAM does fail, but I believe it's more likely that your firmware is corrupted and re-installing it would fix the problem.

Theoretically, you should be able to boot from a LiveCD/USB and get into a normal desktop environment. From there, back up your files to a USB disk or a network location before doing anything else, then (to keep the process simple) try to re-install Linux.

However, it's possible that even booting from a LiveCD/USB won't work if it's a RAM issue (RAM is shared between the CPU and GPU on these), so in that case you'll need to remove the drive from your laptop to back it up to another computer.

If you have access to a computer with a USB3.0 interface, you can pull your hard drive out of the T400 and use one of these to plug that drive into your other computer. They make versions of this that don't require USB3.0, if you want to go on a little search for it. I used to use these pretty frequently back in the day to back up client hard drives.

u/t-dar · 2 pointsr/videography

You just need a simple SATA to USB cable to connect to computer.

u/Win_Sys · 2 pointsr/technology

You will need to convert the drive from SATA to USB. Some thing like this would work. Then it will act just like an external drive. From there you can install whatever you want on it. Just set the BIOS to boot from USB and you should be good.

u/-gojira · 2 pointsr/dogecoin
u/r_person · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sorry for your loss. As the other user mentioned for the PC you should be Able to remove the hard drive from it , (generally located for easy access by removing a few screws on the underside of the laptop.) A USB to Sata adapter cable would make this a simple process, you simply plug the hard drive into the sata adapter and the usb into another PC. It essentially enables you to read the drive like a flash drive. This will only work providing the drive isn’t encrypted, by encrypted I don’t mean the windows password, I mean something like BitLocker. But it’s certainly worth a shot. Good luck.

u/midgetmakes3 · 2 pointsr/applehelp

If you have another computer you can make an El Cap USB installer and reinstall it from there.

&amp;#x200B;

To get your data you can get a SATA-USB external adapter, pull the drive out of the Macbook, and copy your data to another computer.

&amp;#x200B;

Adapter:

&amp;#x200B;

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

&amp;#x200B;

Same thing but a full enclosure:

&amp;#x200B;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bAqpP1_cr_x__w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;pf_rd_r=CRVP86GZMSG9D9WY4W3X&amp;pf_rd_r=CRVP86GZMSG9D9WY4W3X&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=4f3a3e36-c598-581a-bdda-6635ea8feafa&amp;pf_rd_p=4f3a3e36-c598-581a-bdda-6635ea8feafa&amp;pf_rd_i=160354011

&amp;#x200B;

u/Mad_Maxxis · 2 pointsr/laptops

The disk that came with the SSD is probably a data migration tool to help you make the process easy by directly transferring the files to the SSD from the HDD. In this case, you do need a SATA to USB connector (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1486406967&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=sata%2Bto%2Busb&amp;amp;th=1) in order to transfer the files (Windows OS will be included so you don't have to have a separate install). The following video is great in telling you how to go through the process of using the Samsung Data Migration tool (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_Mu5TuXgXo) (plug in the SATA adapter to the SSD and computer, then use the software, then remove the old HDD after you turned off the computer, then put in the new SSD in and you should be good to go [remember to read through the description box for the YouTube videos I link because there is IMPORTANT information there, especially the video on using the Samsung Data Migration tool]). Good luck!

u/morningsup · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Would this work? https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=R62HJS8RW2R53CPMX0TN

I'd return it but the cost will be $8 to return a $20 items i might as well keep it for when i get a new case but for the mean time.

u/Universe_Man · 2 pointsr/Enhancement

Your husband probably already knows, but instead of opening the laptop back up twice, consider something like this.

u/Max808 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Yes, anything connected through a USB will just act like removable media/flash drive.

Either a Docking Station or SATA to USB cable should suffice. They both do the same thing, but the station has the ability to power up 3.5" drives.

u/FoN925 · 2 pointsr/PS4

Okay, so I dug my adapter out and it is an older style adapter, not SATA 3, so it won't work with the HDD I took out of my Pro when I upgraded to a 2TB drive. Sorry!

However, I did a bit of digging, and this cable on Amazon has reviews from people who say they bought it specifically to work with an external HDD on their PS4 and had no issues.

BUT, I would recommend simply buying an enclosure. This enclosure is actually cheaper than the cable I linked above, and your HDD will look neater and stay cleaner if it's inside a case instead of having a bare drive connected to the PS4's USB ports.

This is the exact enclosure I am using right now with the PS4 Pro's 1TB drive. It costs a bit more, but I like that it includes a place to plug in an AC Adapter in case the HDD you're using needs more power than the PS4's USB ports can provide.

I'm sorry I have outdated cables and couldn't test that for you after all, but I hope you find something that will work for you. Good luck!

u/onliandone · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Describe a bit more about the unit you want. Is it supposed to be a PC of its own? In that case one would get an ITX case that fits three 5.25" drives, like https://www.amazon.com/iStarUSA-S-35-Compact-5-25-Inch-mini-ITX/dp/B00DJ7T3YK. If you want something that connects to other PCs I'd glue three external drives together and just use USB. And yes, connecting those to an USB hub is a good idea (maybe an USB 3.1 Gen 2 hub to avoid any bandwidth issues).

If you have to use the internal drives without a PC of their own I'd get three of https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ + a powered USB 3.0 hub like https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-Power-Adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/.

But I haven't build something like that yet. When I still used optical disk writers there was always the issue of having to keep the system calm to not produce write errors. I'm not 100% certain having three connected to a hub won't be without issues - but it's not too expensive to try out.

u/voldy_ · 2 pointsr/buildapc

So the Aorus RX580 8GB is the best one for my build?

&amp;nbsp;

I plan on continuing to use my laptop and I wanted to upgrade my laptops HDD size too so I don't want to install my laptop drive as well. Someone else said this is what I would have to do to transfer the contents of my laptop to my new HDD
&gt; get the parts you have listed for your new build

&gt;
take a screenshot(s) of you Programs and Features window to remember all the crap you installed

&gt; grab this 10 dollar adapter

&gt;
when your parts come, use that adapter to copy everything you need off your old system onto your new 1T hdd (docs, pics, video, downloads, steam games, etc)

&gt; install a fresh windows 10 onto your new machine with just the ssd plugged in, after you have windows installed add the 1T hdd to your build and all your files will be there

&gt;
install previously referenced crap on new pc

&gt;and then you're back to 100% without cloning errors

Is this the right way to do it?

u/ITprobiotic · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Buy a SanDisk or Samsung. Don't buy Pny or Kingston. Look at your current disk USAGE and get the appropriate size for that. If you have a 1tb and have 820gb free, you just need to buy a 240gb SSD.


Step 2. Order a USB to sata cable for $10
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_xKTEDbXSJQ8TM


Step 3. Use the free version of mini part tool to migrate to SSD.

u/c2cahoon · 2 pointsr/freenas

A trick to this if your chassis is out of HDD / SSD ports is to use a USB to Sata converter and then use a sata SSD.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.N5EDb9WDTKRB

u/My_Police_Box · 2 pointsr/techsupport

If it is a standard 2.5" SSD, then one of these should work.

u/kramer314 · 2 pointsr/applehelp

Get a USB-SATA adapter like https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84, hook it up to a computer, and wipe the drive from there.

u/KalenXI · 2 pointsr/applehelp

I believe on the older Macs target disk mode only works over firewire. So you'd need a firewire adapter for the new Mac if you want to connect it that way. Really the easiest way is to just get a SATA to USB adapter. But if you don't want to do that and the old Mac is working except for the screen/keyboard you could just plug in an external display and keyboard and network them together.

If you want something without an external case you could just get a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1523015274&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=sata+to+usb

u/Claymoresama · 2 pointsr/xbox

That special cord is cheap and is just a sata to USB adapter like so StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RU1iDbHZ5T79J

u/deltawing · 2 pointsr/datarecovery

StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0qh1xbNRS6B7E

I've used this before for this very same thing. Worked great for me! Assuming the drive is in serviceable condition, of course.

u/thatguysoto · 2 pointsr/Terraria

Remove the hard drive from the computer. After it's out, you can connect it to your computer either through SATA internally, or though a SATA to USB connector like this one.

u/guiltydoggy · 2 pointsr/osx

Something like this should do the trick. Just plug in your drive on one end and the other to your USB port.

This is assuming your old drive is a standard 2.5" SATA HDD/SSD and not a more recent SSD "stick" form factor.

Edit: Also assuming the reason you replaced the drive in the first place wasn't because the drive was broken.

u/blacketj · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You could get something as simple as this to access the drives. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/

Edit: That adapter will only work for laptop drives. You will need something with more power for a 3.5" desktop hard drive. Something like this fore example https://www.amazon.com/UNITEK-Converter-Adapter-Cable-Drive/dp/B00GLL41MA/

Or if you want a more permanent solution you could get an enclosure. Which is basically the same thing but in a box. Just make sure you get the right size for your particular hard drive.

Edit: To answer your other question. I'm not really sure what you mean by "the Bookmark", but in theory everything should still be on the drives if you know where to look.

u/doopdoopderp · 2 pointsr/techsupport

That error usually means something is going wrong with the hard drive itself. With any luck it is just a corrupt file system and can be repaired, worse case however is an actual mechanical failure in the hard drive.

What you want to do is pull it from the laptop and using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84, plug it into another computer and see if you can access the files. If you can, save the files to that computer.

Next open command prompt and run a check disk, it’ll look of file system errors and fix them if it can. It will also look for physical damage to the hard disks and display them on the final output log as “bad sectors” if it has bad sectors, trash the hd, they will never get better and will only get worse until the drive completely dies.

The command for check disk you should use is:
Chkdsk D: /f /r /x

Replace the “D” with whatever it’s drive letter is in the computer

u/areyougame · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Well at least getting a old hard drive out of a laptop is easy enough, all you need is one of these suckers

u/OSC_E · 2 pointsr/pcgamingtechsupport

You can purchase a docking station/adapter depending on the SSD's interface. Examples {no endorsement(s) implied}:

u/tomatozmbie · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You can take out the hard drive from the laptop and get a SATA to USB adapter and just connect the old HDD as a usb device and copy paste whatever you need.

Also why do you capitalize every new word in the title?

u/dito49 · 2 pointsr/hardware
u/Flying_Spaghetti_ · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

In my expirence at least Samsung and Crucial do. You might also want one of these adapters to actually do the cloning.

u/GhostBond · 2 pointsr/buildapc

&gt; The enclosure is this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-NGFF-Aluminum-Enclosure-EC-M2MC/dp/B0765D6NJV and the SSD is the Western Digital Blue 500GB M.2 SATA.

The traditional 2.5" version of the drive is basically the m.2 version but already inside a case, you could save $10 by getting the traditional 2.5" version and a usb/stata cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/

About the same size as the enclosure as well.

&gt; will it be able to achieve the same speed as the SSD would perform if it was used as an internal one OR will it significantly underperform?

It will either perform exactly the same, or nearly the same. Source: I am using this setup for my backup drive, it's several times faster than the hdd I was using before.

u/superfrayer · 2 pointsr/PS4

I just found out there are SATA to USB 3.0 cables. So the Samsung 860 Evo is SATA III 2.5 and it doesn't look like there is any circuitry exposed except where the adapter would go. So if I wanted to use it as external I could just plug it in with this
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84 , format the drive and it's ready to go? Could it be that easy?

u/Get_Back_To_Work_Now · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

take the drive out of the laptop and treat it as an external drive on another PC

u/Aspirant_Fool · 2 pointsr/techsupport

There's an adapter on there already as part of the tray. Take the drive out of the tray, it looks like it'll have regular SATA data and power connectors, and something like this would work.

u/VorticalBlade · 2 pointsr/buildapc

There are various cloning softwares (and hardware) that would make an identical version of your current install on the new SSD, it would be easiest if your laptop has two HDD bays, else you will likely need to spend at least a little bit of money on a USB to sata adapter, which would be cheaper than a windows key.

u/iamofnohelp · 2 pointsr/techsupport

you can just get a USB to SATA adapter and plug it in. of course the enclosure offers some protection.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/TheHorrorNerd · 2 pointsr/techsupport

First of all back up the data BEFORE you run any diagnostics on the drive.

Diagnostics essentially runs a stress test and can push the drive into unrecoverable territory.

If it has dual drives then the data on the larger HDD may be fine.

(Some manufacturers install the OS on the larger HDD though...)

Buy a Sata to usb adapter.

Like this
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1483853961&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=sata+usb+adapter

Plug it into another PC to recover the data.

u/ihateseafood · 2 pointsr/techsupport

So I'm assuming that this is your personal laptop. There are two things you can do

1- Take out the hard drive and put it in another pc then transfer what you need over. You will not be able to boot from this drive so you will need to be able to plug this in along with the hard drive that runs the pc you are using to transfer files. (Use sata cables and a sata power cable)

2- If you don't have access to another pc where you can plug the hard drive in using sata cables buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1485322519&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=hdd+to+usb. Use that to transfer it to a different pc.

Both of these options are assuming that you have another pc to use.

u/PawshMoiles · 1 pointr/techsupport
u/jfb-pihole · 1 pointr/pihole

You typically get a SATA to USB converter. One end is USB-A, the other end is SATA. This is a common solution for bare external drives.

This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84

u/stillcantpickaname · 1 pointr/JetsonNano

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00HJZJI84 provides enough power for sata ssd or some 2.5 disks, but if you're mobile you don't want those anyway. for wifi/bt best bet is the m.2 card, the one I have isn't supported but I just use ethernet.

u/SigmaTheDJ · 1 pointr/xbox

For the drive, you want a 500GB, 1TB, or 2TB 2.5" HDD or SSD. There's loads of choice out there. An SSD will give you considerably faster loading times in many games, but obviously it'll cost you more.

You'll also need the tools to open the console and a USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA adapter so that you can hook the drive up to a computer. I bought THIS and THIS respectively.

I followed the instructions in THIS thread, which includes links to full video guides on YouTube.

u/CircaCitadel · 1 pointr/buildapc

Very likely to be the cable. HDD and SSD use the same cables, yes, assuming its a SATA drive. You should check them on another machine to be sure. Replacing those cables won't be much of a problem though.

Or buy a SATA USB adapter to check them. I just bought this one recently:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/EverybodyGets1Sketch · 1 pointr/razer

If I get the adaptor card you suggested, can I connect that to this and get the data out with it?

u/freakingwilly · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yep. It was a huge stink a few years ago, but it's mostly just a vanishing memory now.

Disconnect the SATA cable from your SSD, leaving the power cable in. Turn on the computer, boot into your BIOS/UEFI, and leave the computer running for about an hour (you might want to turn off your monitor to prevent burn in), then shut down and reconnect your SSD. If it was a power failure, the SSD should boot right up.

If you have a SATA to USB adapter cable, you can also test the drive on another system to see if it works (and do the above mentioned test).

u/j_fuze · 1 pointr/DestinyTheGame

This cable is probably the best/most low profile option.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84?psc=1&amp;amp;redirect=true&amp;amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

Keep in mind that an SSD won't make a huge difference in situations like Crucible as you're still waiting on all the other players before the match starts, but it does make a substantial difference loading into any other activity, especially when you're solo.

u/scandalous_lime · 1 pointr/applehelp

You can try pulling out the hard drive and using this but that's pretty much all you can do. Make sure you plug it into another Mac. Windows can't read the file system Mac uses unless you have a special utility.

u/ChaoticxSerenity · 1 pointr/techsupport

Would one of these work as well?

u/furrball12 · 1 pointr/computerhelp

You could take out the hard drive and use something such as this to plug it into another computer and it will show up just like a USB thumb drive(assuming that the problem is not the hard drive failing).
*this may require you to boot into a Linux live cd if the hard drive is failing/is the problem

If it is the hard drive failing(less likely, typically the hard drive would be making unusual sounds, screeching loud ticking, etc.)you could still try the above idea but that may hurt the hard drive more. If the data is externally valuable it the best solution would be a professional data recovery company (these can run into the thousands of dollars)

You could also try to take it to a local computer repair shop and ask for their opinion on it.

The first idea is probably fine tho.

I have recovered data with the first idea before.

u/44444444444444444 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I don't know if this is a good solution for you, but if you already have an SSD that you aren't using, you can get one of these. I don't know how well they work but it seems well reviewed. Looking at how reliable and durable SSDs are now, the only thing I would worry about is the connector on the SSD and how long it will last.

u/andygrawell · 1 pointr/computers

Do you have an external USB to HDD/SATA reader? This is the perfect time to backup your files somewhere. If you don't have it, you should get one, it's very handy not only when diagnosing boot errors. I've got this exact model, it has been working great since two years ago.

Edit: grammar.

u/ninjetron · 1 pointr/techsupport

You could try unplugging some of your peripherals to see if that changes anything. Can hook the drive up and run diagnostics in another computer?

Had a similar issue recently and this is the only thing that fixed it. Had to borrow a flatmates laptop and install win 10 to a USB drive with the media creation tool from the MS website. Now it's imaged with Macrium Reflect so hopefully I won't have to deal it again.

This bad boy right here was a life saver:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1499434877&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=hdd+usb+adapter&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41RlR-Q1siL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

u/stopandwatch · 1 pointr/Bitcoin

Wow, nice job. I don't have the skills to do that so I'll probably buy one from aliexpress. I have a spare ssd and a usb3-sata3 cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1); if it works, it'll be messy and if not, I'll have to find a powered usb hub. But I really like how everything is compact in your build. It took me awhile to realize that the WD PiDrive powered both the drive and the rpi. Really clean!

u/jcat00uk · 1 pointr/DestinyTheGame

I bought this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F9G46Q8 and https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HJZJI84
the UASP is the important bit for utilising the speed of the ssd.
I also did a full ntfs format of it on my pc and checked if the firmware needed updating before I plugged it in my xbox1 reformatting and copying the games over, hope this helps, John

u/j_the_maniac · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

What about this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Is this the same as what you said, just minus the enclosure?

u/jello3d · 1 pointr/videography

There is nothing rugged about rugged HDDs. Typically, prepackaged external drives use the worst OEM drives possible. If you have to work on an HDD, get a good bare drive and put it in a good, ventilated case.

Better, however, to get a Samsung 850 and a USB3 -&gt; SATA cable or ext 2.5" case. You don't need external power for these, just plug n go.

OR... get an msata Samsung 850 and appropriate adapter. I keep something like this with me all the time.

u/Chappie47Luna · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Ok so if I'm understanding correctly I can just connect one of these (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;amp;qid=1483471185&amp;amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;amp;pi=SL75_QL70&amp;amp;amp;keywords=startech+usb+3.0+to+2.5+sata+iii+hard+drive+adapter+cable+with+uasp), run the Acronis software to clone the drive. Then replace the hdd with the ssd and it should boot up completely normal into the windows login screen? Thank you for the info

u/sevin8nin · 1 pointr/computers

I probably can't explain it from my phone on the mobile reddit app. I just spent an hour with an intern last week going over this. But he researched how to make a bootable macrium thumb drive on his own so i didnt have to.
That's why i say the samsung data migration software might be the simplest. Plus a usb to sata cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1517929532&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=usb+sata

u/Corm · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi
u/jamesmtn · 1 pointr/thedivision

I'm on Xbox, but I recently got these to use as an external drive:

&amp;#x200B;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G3KRZBX

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/

&amp;#x200B;

With all the fast-travelling I do in the game, it's insane how much time I am saving now. After logging into the game (which is also much faster), loading anything rarely takes longer than a few seconds. It was definitely worth the $40.

&amp;#x200B;

Having a smaller external SSD works fine for me since I can easily just move games I'm actively playing onto the SSD and then back onto the internal drive when needed. I only have 3-4 games with annoying load times anyway and they all fit on the SSD currently.

u/dbrenha · 1 pointr/chromeos

Hi, can someone help me out with some crouton stuff? So I have a C720 and a spare 2,5'' ssd and wanted to use it for crouton, but i figured that it wouldn't perform as fast as in the internal ssd. My question is, would something like this be worth it for the usb 3.0 if I install some steam games / other software? What filesystem should I format it in? ext4 or something else?

u/pianogamer005 · 1 pointr/mac

If you have another Mac with either FireWire 800 or Thunderbolt 2 (depending on the model of your borked Mac - can't really see from the GIF) you connect the two with an appropriate cable and use Target Disk Mode to grab the files you need from it for safe keeping. From there, you can use recovery mode to reinstall macOS with the peace of mind knowing your files are safe.

Alternatively, if you don't have another Mac, you can simply try reinstalling the OS in recovery without backing up first, as I'm fairly certain that will retain your personal files by default provided you don't format the drive yourself (the installer will not do that).

Or, again depending on your Mac, you might be able to remove its 2.5" drive by removing some screws on the back like this and attach it to a USB to SATA cable like this one to read the files on another Mac. This won't work on Retina MacBook Pros because they use a proprietary drive that can't easily (or at least cheaply) be adapted to an external device. Good luck!

u/CsGoLegend420 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Hey my fellow pcmr mates,
quick question
can a product like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
work for my 2.5inch harddrive?
can the usb even power up the harddrive?

my hdd is this
http://www.notebookparts.com/hitachi-500-gb-hdd-hard-drive-sata-5400rpm-h2t500854s/

u/Luigi_4477 · 1 pointr/techsupport

This is the adapter: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

That's a thought I also had. I can't really answer it tho. Its connected to a USB 3.0 Port. Where can I get information about its power delivery? Didn't find much in the motherboards manual. SSD works fine with the adapter. Case is the Crystal 460x from Corsair. Same behaviour when connecting directly to the motherboards USB

u/QYV- · 1 pointr/Seaofthieves

that is NOT an SSD drive, imho that's one of the cheaper/slower drives you can buy. just because it's branded doesn't make it ideal :) remember ANY drive works fine.

so you're locking the price point at around $90 no problem. that's what I was referring to in my original post... HDs get much more capacity for the same money, SSDs are a lot faster.

Here are some ~$90 SSD on Amazon, I just searched for "usb3 ssd 240GB":
https://www.amazon.com/MyDigitalSSD-240GB-SuperSpeed-Portable-Support/dp/B00EZ2FRP2
https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Elite-240GB-Portable-Solid/dp/B01GQPXBQC
https://www.amazon.com/KINGSHARE-USB3-0-External-Portable-Support-Silver/dp/B077FV4DDH

anything along those lines should work.. those are self contained SSD drives with a USB enclosure so the drive is more protected. Personally I got one of these which would let me connect any SATA (the data connector) drive to usb: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
and then bought a nice fast 240GB SSD drive when it went on sale... this deal is already over but here's an example:
https://slickdeals.net/f/11538691-240gb-crucial-bx300-sata-2-5-solid-state-drive-58-40-free-shipping
or this: https://slickdeals.net/f/11535383-patriot-burst-2-5-sata-iii-internal-ssd-240gb-55-120gb-36-free-shipping?src=SiteSearch

so theoretically if you got the drive for around $50-60 and the $10 cable you saved around $20-30 from your $90 price point. all depends on how much you care about having a nice enclosure. Personally I have no problem sitting the raw drive attached by cable on my xbox in my entertainment center it's pretty secure. If you have kids or dogs or the xbox is exposed I'd get one in an enclosure

.

When you finally get a drive and plug it in to your Xbox, the Xbox should prompt you asking what you want to do with the drive... if not just go into settings / system / storage. You need to tell the Xbox that you want to use it for GAMES (as opposed to just media) so it will need to format the drive. At that point, you can move games (via the Manage Game dialog) from wherever it is currently installed to the external drive. Since it's Windows, there's also a "default install location" you can change if you want things you download to automatically go the external drive.

u/Tranc3lov3r · 1 pointr/techsupport

hi,
try to jiggle on the cable, it could be the usb port on the WD case.
You ca open the case(warranty lost) and plug-in the HDD direclty on but you need a cable or a new external case 2.5" .
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-USB3-0-External-Enclosure-Supported/dp/B01M08LCXW/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=5J3GQ5190F3ZDAK6FJX9
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84


Data recovery needs a stable connection from hdd.
https://www.easeus.com/resource/hard-disk-data-recovery.htm

u/selicos · 1 pointr/techsupport

I'd recommend getting an external USB to sATA adapter like this model:

https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84?sa-no-redirect=1

I have some variation of this which is very helpful however this does require plugging the drive into a different PC. To mitigate this boot the PC off a live Ubuntu disk (DVD or USB) and use the file manager built in to copy files to another external drive like a flash drive.

Pull the drive out of the laptop, boot the PC to the live ubuntu image, connect the drive it to the adapter, plug it into the PC, and pull files via the file manager. You can then use built in disk tools to format the drive ready for reinstall. You don't need to DBAN it but could if you wanted to. A single format is probably fine.

Once done, with all files on a new drive, shutdown and unplug then use the media creation tool to get a current installation media for Windows. If you are using Windows 7 it might be complicated to find media.

u/GupGup · 1 pointr/UIUC

The hard drive is a separate component from the motherboard. Assuming you can remove it (I wouldn't be surprised if Apple computers have them soldered down), you can use this to connect to a working computer and retrieve your files - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/

u/JasonHenley · 1 pointr/techsupport

If I were working on this problem in our tech shop, I would start by plugging your external hard drive into another computer to see if it is recognized there instead. If that failed, I would plug it into a Mac.

If that also failed, then my first thought is that the external drive's USB adapter is no good. I would see if it is possible to open the external hard drive case and use a new USB to SATA adapter to plug the drive directly into a computer. For this step, you would need a phillips head screwdriver and a USB to SATA adapter, something end-users usually don't have handy. They are inexpensive, at least. Something like $15. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1526618801&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=usb+sata+adapter

Make sure you don't crack open the drive itself. If you see torx screws (star shaped) then do not unscrew them.

If that wasn't an option, then we're getting into data recovery territory. For freeware recovery tools, I like to recommend Recuva. https://www.ccleaner.com/recuva Get that installed, plug your external drive in, and see if Recuva can see the physical drive. If so, then it may be able to undelete your data.

And lastly, and I realize this advice is too late given the circumstances, but in the future, it might be a good idea to keep a second copy of your data in a separate location. Losing data is heartbreaking -- it happened to me in the late 90's and that's all it took for me to start backing up regularly.

u/Dwayne_Matheson · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-3-0-Inch-UASP-SATA-Converter-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1527436237&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=sata+to+usb+3.0

Just a simple SATA to USB cable. Not sure if there would be enough power to drive the burner but it should read just fine.

u/Casper042 · 1 pointr/storage

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/

10 bucks, you don't need the crazy ORICO thing since both your drives are SATA.
2.5 and 3.5 SATA use the same connector.

And as for Rule2, /r/TechSupport next time.

u/bloks1995 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Plug in the external drive and open up disk management (open the start menu and type in disk management) and see if anything other than the hard drive in your laptop is showing up...For example, you may see that it lists three disks, one of which would be your C: drive, another would be your DVD drive, and the third would be the external drive. If you see the external drive, but it doesn't have a drive letter associated with it, then that means that somehow or another your partition was deleted...your data should still be there though. It may be easiest if you post a picture of what you see when you open up disk management if you are uncertain as to whether or not the drive is there. If your portable hard drive doesn't show up in disk management, see below. If your drive does show up in disk management, report back, and I or someone else may be able to help you retrieve your data.

I had a portable WD drive die on me before, but it turned out to be a bad connection between the usb port and the hard drive itself. If you are otherwise unable to get the drive working, carefully remove the plastic shell to get the drive out. Once you have the bare drive out, you can then plug it into your laptop using something like this or if you have a desktop, you can just plug it in to one of the internal connections. Assuming that your problem exists somewhere in between the usb connection and the drive itself, this will allow you to retrieve your data.

If all else fails, or if you would rather not mess with this, you may consider taking it to a shop (or a computer savvy friend) to have it diagnosed. Though it wouldn't be free, it is likely that they would be able to help you, and it would save you from buying a special adapter just to test your drive.

u/se7endust1 · 1 pointr/Greeley
u/1lostredneck · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Get something like this it's a sata to USB adapter. Assuming the hard drive is sata. I don't think there is a solution for m.2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jymTCbYGGEARQ

u/Almunt · 1 pointr/windows

The "screenshot" you are talking about is called an image. An image is like a giant file that you can copy and paste onto another hard drive. Later if your ssd becomes corrupt or something else happens to it, you can boot into the windows recovery and restore the image.
Go into the control panel and look up "backup and restore". Once you are in the "backup and restore" settings then you will see an option to create a system image on the left sidebar. You can click it and select the disk you want to save the image to. Once you are done windows should ask if you want to make a recovery disk. Make the recovery disk, and later if you need to restore the image you just made you can boot from the disk and restore your image.
You can find more info on creating and restoring the backup here.
Note: You made need equipment to connect the hdd to the computer with the ssd if they are not already connected. Something that connects USB to SATA like this would probably work.

u/mightyjack818 · 1 pointr/buildapc

For the most simple DIY.

  1. Open your case, find out the hard drive (size).
  2. Buy a same sized hard drive or SSD and buy a usb to SATA cable (amazon). (based on your question, I'm assuming you don't have more sata cables sitting around in your PC)
  3. Connect that to your PC, use some free software like minitool partition wizard to clone your original hard drive to the new one.
  4. Lastly, swap the old one out with the new one.

    If that doesn't work, you might have to manually install new OS and copy over your files...
u/TooLessSodium · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Planning to turn this into external boot drive with sata to usb adapter for awhile. Will there be any trouble? Is there anything I should beware of?

u/PriceKnight · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Price History


  • StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter &amp;nbsp; ^PureLink
    ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 5596 valid reviews
    CamelCamelCamel - [Info]Keepa - [Info]

    _
    Price of a Pawn, value of a Queen.
    ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&amp;subject=Bug+Report&amp;message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fdc7e8u%2Fssd_samsung_860_evo_250gb_904545_variousstore%2Ff279dan%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A
    %0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
u/starofdoom · 1 pointr/techsupport

If it's disk-checking, it's possible it's just a hard-drive issue. Have you been able to boot it long enough to check the hand-drive?

If not, do you have another computer you can plug it into (SATA to USB, if it uses SATA) in order to run the check?

Have you taken the CPU out and checked the pins? It's possible something rusted or grew in there which is interrupting the connection.

u/OgdruJahad · 1 pointr/techsupport

Sorry but it seems to me that your laptop will need some serious work, you may have to send it to a repair shop to confirm. As for the baking in the oven trick, that's a really bad idea, it will very likely make things worse, especially if things go wrong. You may still be able to recover you data by using a second PC and a USB to SATA cable like this

u/toddbbot · 1 pointr/mac

Make a USB installer thumb drive like above suggested.

Alternatively, I like to use a usb to SATA cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1504536012&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=usb+to+sata

You can connect your old drive to usb and boot into it and then run disk utilities to format the new drive and install the OS on it. Then boot into the new one.

My SOP for installing a new drive is first attach it with that cable, format and install a clean OS on it. Then migrate all the data with migration assistant. Now open up the machine and swap drives. You boot up and are ready to go (after all your sign ins).

u/DeadnamingMissDaisy · 1 pointr/linuxhardware

Protip: get a couple of these and samba share them with a raspberry pi 4.

u/orangelounge · 1 pointr/computerforensics

Ensure all your ports and gear are USB 3.0, then buy something like this: SATA-&gt;USB3 adapters aren't expensive:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1503275696&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=usb+sata+adapter

u/Brewi · 1 pointr/techsupport

Hmm. Well, I'll try the SSD first.

Let's assume that it's a problem with the SSD. So, I buy a new one, and my mobo recognizes it fine. In order to get the files off of my old SSD, would a USB to SATA adapter like this work okay?

u/payucon · 1 pointr/PS4
u/klepperx · 1 pointr/buildapc

well the easiest thing is a simple cable like this with USB 3 it's pretty fast too.

u/mitretto · 1 pointr/techsupport

Let me help:

  1. it doesn't matter what kind of hard drive you use as long as it is a 2.5" hard drive.
  2. I personally like seagate hard drives like this (http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Laptop-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LM014/dp/B00B99JUBQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1451602048&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=seagate+2.5+hard+drive)
  3. You will need to get a new copy of windows since windows is on the broken hard drive and once you do that you can use this (http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1451602163&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=usb+to+sata) to have it hookup to your or another computer to retrieve files.
u/vladamir_pootin · 1 pointr/ComputerDIY

one - use disk copy software to copy your existing hard drive data onto your new hard drive. Use Macrium Reflect Free version note: you may need a USB to SATA connector to connect your new drive to your computer.

two - Open your laptop, replace old drive with new drive.

three - replace all screws and plates.

four - boot up new computer!

Optional extra step: use your old hard drive and your new USB-SATA connector as an external drive

u/Cool_Hwip_Luke · 1 pointr/xboxone

Good info and presentation.

Curious, why the docking station instead of a USB 3 to SATA III cable?

u/0beatbryce · 1 pointr/applehelp
u/capnjferg · 1 pointr/buildapc

oh I see. I'll look into diskpart and also try this to plug into a mac and see if that might work. The Windows disk manager definitely sees the drive, but any time I try to delete a partition it just goes into "Not Responding" for an hour (that's how long I waited until I gave up).

Really appreciate the advice and good to know that not all is lost yet!

u/taboo007 · 1 pointr/mac

Well I have an external hard drive. I backed up that first. Then I made the swap. Then with the HDD I used a cable like this to do the transfer. Worked just fine.

u/lowflyingmonkey · 1 pointr/buildapc

How are you buying it? Local person to person sale, store in person that sales used goods? online store? Online P2P ( like /r/hardwareswap or ebay)

If local p2p and you can psychically inspect the drive before buying it you could use something like this https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ to check if it working with any available computer. Running SMART or any other drive test tool.

If it a local store, if they are on the up and up they would probably provide proof of a working drive if you asked. Also warranties, guarantees and return polices are a good sign too.

Online store is harder but a legit store probably has warranties, guarantees or return polices. So at least if it doesn't work you can return it.

online P2P, you can ask for proof of the working drive. Also paying thru something that has good protection. I think /r/hardwareswap recommends Paypal Goods and Services ( but not paypal friends and family gift that has no protection) or google wallet.

Also with all but maybe local p2p paying with a card over cash will give you some recourse as well if all other options fail, thru doing a chargeback as a last resort. With local p2p often cash is king so that doesn't really work. Though some might take paypal or some other form of digital wallet which is nice too

u/BossRSA · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Why not get a normal hard-drive and something like this?

u/Avocado111 · 1 pointr/macbookpro

This type of thing with carbon copy cloner wouldn't work? Not sure I follow.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/bobobo1618 · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

I don't know why you'd use anything else now. A cable is only $12: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/mysteryjuice · 1 pointr/mac

It would depend on the computer, for example, the newer Macbook Pros have very small SSDs so that wouldn't work. However, if it does come down to it, you could buy a USB 3.0 to SATA adapter and transfer the data to the new computer that way (something like this may do the trick).

u/Iphoneuserlol · 1 pointr/VitaPiracy

I'll try that it could be the issue and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iKbRAbGV49RMA thats what i got and i do own a spare adapter though i could try that

u/kevinateher · 1 pointr/techsupport

I'll be up front, that is not good news. What I'm about to tell you is actually my least favorite part of my job. It sounds to me like your external drive's controller board is fine, but your hard disk might be failing.

If you are comfortable enough and have another drive that will fit for testing, swap another drive in there and try to read it. If you get nothing, your controller is fucked and you should get one of these and back up its contents ASAP.

There's also a chance that it's been formatted RAW. In this case, if you're okay with rolling the dice, you can attempt to clean it with diskpart, format it and go back over it with Recuva or Shadow Explorer to help you retrieve your files. Do so at your own risk! But it is important to know that when you format a disk, you aren't deleting the data. You're telling the drive that it is okay to write over any data on the disk. So don't write anything to it and you will be fine.

Barring that, you may need to seek out advanced data recovery services. A platter transfer might be necessary and is best left to a data recovery specialist. This can be very costly.

There's an unfortunate final option, which is that there is no Sata to USB converter inside the drive and it goes straight to USB. Straight to data recovery.

Edited because Amazon puts all that extra shit in your clipboard when you share from the site.

u/el_americano · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/aninweton · 1 pointr/buildapc

I see. You're probably right. And I was going to say that the hard drive you have linked is awfully expensive but it's a 2.5 inch so thats why. Then my solution would figure out how much space you need and figure out if you can get it below 250GB. If so, definitely go with the SSD. Also, can you still use the hard disk you have now to store stuff? If there is no space in your laptop, can you use one of these for your old HDD? (You might be able to find a cheaper one i just linked the first one I saw.)

u/daericg · 1 pointr/homelab

StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_lLDCwbD0ZTCDM

u/ILoveToEatLobster · 1 pointr/techsupport

You could get one of these, remove HD from computer then plug it into the adapter and connect to another computer to get any files off. Then do a fresh install.

u/aaronfranke · 1 pointr/techsupport
u/Ye_olde_quagswagger · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/BrianRostro · 1 pointr/techsupport

[This](StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TI1Tzb9P8VCGY) is what you'd be looking for. It's a SATA adapter. You can find them for cheaper but this is the first example i ran across

u/LEEMakesThings · 1 pointr/techsupport

If the hard drive is still functional, then yes, it'll basically act like an external hard drive. There are a few variables (partition type), but it is likely to work. Make sure to get a good adaptor. One like this should do just fine.

u/errmatt · 1 pointr/freenas

I'm talking about the Kingston thumb drives. My point being that you don't lose anything by utilizing an SSD connected to a USB enclosure or adapter for boot, over a single thumb drive, because no USB thumb drives support SMART either (that I have found). You definitely aren't able to take advantage of the SMART features of whatever SSD you use in that manner, because I've never found a USB-SSD adapter/enclosure that supports SMART, but you aren't really losing anything either.

SSD's seem to be more reliable in general, SMART or not, than flash drives... so it could be advantageous to use one with a USB adapter, even though you don't get SMART data from it, especially if it means not giving up a SATA port (if they are limited).

One of these is what I plan on using, hooked to the internal USB header on my supermicro board.

u/apple9321 · 1 pointr/applehelp

Totally agree with /u/fcewen00's advice to replace it with an SSD to get your Mac up and running again.

To clarify the data recovery portion, just because it won't boot doesn't mean that all data is lost.

First of all, a clicking drive can potentially do more physical damage to the data on the drive if you try to read from it. So, if the data is really important to you, the best bet is to send it off to Drive Savers right away. They will disassemble the drive, and get as much data off as possible. However, this is usually a last-resort due to the price tag.

If you want to give it a shot yourself, you could attach the removed drive to a working Mac or Linux box with a USB/SATA cable (like this one), and attempt to browse and copy files. Note: if you attach it to a Mac, it may take a very long time to mount (give it at least 15 minutes).

If that's not working, you could try a free tool called ddrescue to attempt to create an image of the bad drive. A while ago, I wrote up a quick tutorial on the commands necessary. Note: for this, you will need at least as much free space on the host drive as the capacity of the failing drive (meaning you likely won't be able to run it on your shiny new ssd Mac).

u/adminpassword1 · 1 pointr/sandiego

What model laptop is the one that crashed? What version of Windows? Do you have another WORKING computer? If so, buy a USB/SATA converter, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1480309202&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=usb+sata+converter or if you want, I'll sell you a used one for $10, pick-up price. Use that to connect to another computer and move all your important stuff over. Sounds like 2 of these are easy fixes, and the keyboard one you just need a replacement keyboard from ebay, OR you can remove the keyboard, wash off the keyboard with water, let it sit for a couple days to dry out and reinstall, or just use a USB keyboard.

u/glowinghamster45 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

In his scenario, I would get set up with the ssd like I said with only power going to the hdd, then VERY CAREFULLY just plug the sata cable to the hdd with everything still on. Alternatively, situations like this is where having something like this laying around is handy. Then from within Windows just delete everything on the hdd. There's certainly other (safer) ways to do it, but having run into issues in this situation before, this is just how I do it. It circumvents problems like what OP is currently having, and releases you from having to mess with boot orders in the bios and whatnot.

Though really, you only need to deal with that sort of thing if you're planning on using the hdd with the new ssd. If you're replacing the ssd, you just install Windows, easy peasy.

u/brent744 · 1 pointr/xboxone

What I love about the Xbox is that it has a lot of similarities to that of a Windows machine. I am a systems engineer and I believe you have some corrupted system files. The hard drive will have to be completely wiped with the OS reinstalled. This can be easily done from any Windows PC however, you'll require a sata to usb connector in order to connect your Xbox drive to PC. Complete a search on YouTube and you'll find a few tutorials.

&amp;#x200B;

https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;qid=1556022941&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1

u/brigaid · 1 pointr/htpc

&gt;Could I use a micro sd card with one of these:
link1
&gt;plugged into the NUC, and install Ubuntu on the micro sd card?

Yes, Ubuntu is very flexible with the location of your install as long as it remains plugged in while the device is on.

&gt;Also, could I buy an SSD (but not an SSD meant for the NUC), one of these: link2

Yes, but you could also put that SSD in some models of NUC like this model.

&gt;and plug it into the NUC with one of these cables:
link3

&gt;And then install Ubuntu on that?

yes, but you could have better success with an external enclosure that stores the whole drive rather than that model that is meant for hotswapping. Like this.

u/A_Water_Fountain · 1 pointr/techsupport

Just have to get a USB to SATA adapter.

Example product

u/10_LETTERS_BOT · 1 pointr/techsupport

Refer to this video in order to remove your drive. If your brother sells you his laptop you should be able to swap drives. Otherwise you can use a [cable like this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nQx7ybJMDVZEA) to transfer your data to a new computer.

u/KeeperOfTheLag · 1 pointr/software

That's probably the cause, win10 try to do too much stuff at once and the system lose responsiveness waiting for the hdd. I had the same problems with a brand new Nuc with a powerful i5. You can try to disable telemetry, indexes, cortana, delay the antivirus etc... but they will return after any major windows update. Upgrading to a ssd is probably the thing that can grant you the most benefit. Duplicating your old hdd is quite easy on a software level. Install some utility like Backupper, and with a few clicks the new SSD will be a bootable copy of your old HDD.

On an hardware level, it depends on your case, your motherboard and your psu. You must open the case and plug the new SSD to the motherboard and the PSU, so you may need some extra cables if they did not come with the SSD/psu/motherboard.

Most ssd use sata interface , while the older hdd still have pata, you should first check if your motherboard support sata for the ssd, but it is quite common since a decade or more.

You can even duplicate it using an USB adapter for the ssd like this , without the need to open the case.

After that you have to decide if replace the hdd or still use it as data drive.

In the first case, just unplug the cables from the HDD and plug them to the sdd, win10 should be able to start like nothing has changed. If you want to use both but boot from the ssd, you may have to tinker with the bios (something on the motherboard that start before windows) and manually choose the ssd as booting disk instead of the hdd.

u/DayOfReckoning47 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Yeah you're totally good man, just wait and see if you can pick up a sata cable or buy one https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84 and then reset it on a friends PC. You could also save yourself that headache and just format a USB drive to boot into and then boot from the USB drive!

u/dontwanttorunaway · 1 pointr/hackintosh

I can help ya. Okay first get a usb to sata adaptor:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

Something like this should work. Next get carbon copy cloner:

https://bombich.com/

Now connect your new hard drive to the usb adapter. Run carbon copy cloner and make a full copy of your boot disk to the usb disk. Now get clover efi:

https://sourceforge.net/projects/cloverefiboot/

Install this package to your usb hard drive. After you finish, take the usb disk and mount it in your new hackintosh build and you should be ready to go.

I have personally used this method dozens of times on may different computers. If it's compatible hardware everything should work just like your current OS with all your files and everything. You could even just install Clover efi to your boot disk and move it directly into the the new hackintosh. I actually used a hackintosh hard drive in my macbook pro and it worked flawlessly.

u/The_American_Stig · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

Windows failing to start up, and the pre-boot diagnostics confirm that hard drive is failing.

Based on the service tag, it looks like the laptop is already out of warranty, so a new hard drive would be an out of pocket expense.

As for recovering data off the drive, you could pull the drive and use a [SATA to USB adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84?th=1) and hook it up to another PC and see if you can read data off of it.
If this doesn't work, your only other options are to restore from a backup, or send the drive to a data recovery service (very expensive).

Good luck to you.

u/molassacre_ · 1 pointr/thinkpad

Yes, that will work. Note that the Samsung "Pro" models cost a little more, and the benefits are probably not going to be apparent. They can handle more reads/writes before wearing out. Unless you're running a server from your laptop, the normal model will last 10-30 years with daily use.

Link to normal model:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-inch-Solid-State-Drive/dp/B00P73B1E4

You may also want to buy a SATA adapter, per this article:
http://www.laptopmag.com/articles/ssd-upgrade-tutorial

SATA adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/iNick20 · 1 pointr/PS4

If you can, I'd recommend you buying a USB 3.0 to 2.5 HDD Adapter and using a free program called Hard Drive Sentinel, Which check the HDD for any errors. Shouldn't even delete anything off it, or even touch the content. Link: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=TQT82KV53P6Q584FYYV9

Edit: It's how I found out mine basically had a week left of usage. lol

u/bakkerboy465 · 1 pointr/pathofexile
u/redwall_hp · 1 pointr/Games

Just use a USB to SATA adapter. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

Must have for anyone who does the occasional drive swap in any device.

u/vikhyatmodgil · 1 pointr/techsupport

Open the laptop and take out the hard drive

if you have an extra laptop or pc plug the drive into it and copy files onto a usbDrive or external hard drive.

If you dont want to open up a working laptop use this if you have a mechanical hard drive - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

if you have a small stick looking hard drive or m.2 drive use this - https://www.amazon.com/SHINESTAR-Adapter-Converter-Portable-External/dp/B0787MDDS9/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537980089&amp;sr=1-2-spons&amp;keywords=m.2+to+usb&amp;psc=1

u/mynameisvlad · 1 pointr/xboxone

More like one of these: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1415051124&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=sata+to+usb+3+adapter

(USB3, and only uses one port) with one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-AH400-4-Port-Compact-Built-/dp/B00B7FOQCK/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1415051181&amp;amp;sr=1-4&amp;amp;keywords=usb+3+hub

Because it's also a USB3 hub. Internally, it's probably a USB3 hub with the SATA connector connected to one of the ports.

Plus, the plastic costs quite a bit initially. You'd need to custom mould it and source plastics that are similar to the Xbox One. The thing probably costs the company ~5-10 bucks to make one, plus the setup overhead I talked about.

u/machinehead933 · 1 pointr/buildapc

You would need a SATA port to connect it to, even if you used a Linux LiveCD of some kind. If you have time to get something in the mail, you can snag a USB/SATA adapter like this then run some software like CrystalDiskInfo to get a basic check on the drive and make sure it's not dead.

u/tboland1 · 1 pointr/techsupport

No salvageable parts, except the hard drive. You should be able to mount that HDD inside a desktop.

If you don't want to mount it internally, you can use something like this USB - SATA adapter. It will allow you to connect that drive to another computer as if it were a big external drive. This is a great thing to have in your bag of tricks, along with an extra mouse and keyboard.

u/woolypumpkin · 1 pointr/techsupport
u/MoifMurphy · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yeah, ezpz. Pop that sucker out and get something like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

Job done.

u/Kas1894 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yes, most of the time. Just make sure you're buying from a reputible brand. Here are some picks:

u/Frost21211 · 1 pointr/PS4
u/llamaman456 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Personally I would clone the hdds contents to the sshd , verify it boots and then format the old hdd. Then buy a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1499496112&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=usb+to+sata and use the hdd as a external backup.

u/dontdrinkandderive · 1 pointr/macbook
u/Not_SubredditSim_SS · 1 pointr/SubredditSimulator_SS
u/Digitallychallenged · 1 pointr/macbookpro

Well. All you would need is an external SATA to USB cable. Should be pretty cheap. Maybe $20.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

Once you replace the drive, and get MAC OS installed on the new drive, simply plug in the old drive to the adapter and copy everything over.

As for the replacement drive, I would splurge a little and go SSD. The performance gains are awesome.

u/winter2 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/cyber1kenobi · 1 pointr/mac

The hard drive in your system is hopefully ok and I believe on that model it comes out rather easy, 10 tiny screws removes the bottom plate, two screws removes the little plastic piece that holds the drive in place and disconnect SATA cable - bam, there’s the drive. With a $11 adapter you can then plug that drive in to another system to access your data or setup a new Mac and transfer your entire “digital life” right on to the new system

StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1nAZCbF7JRW2A

u/Hentacles_Tentai_ · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Well what did you do that for? That seems silly. But in all seriousness you'll just have to buy a new adapter. This one from Amazon is on sale right now
StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IhI5CbXXM3EXJ

u/CaptainVOLF · 1 pointr/computer_help

This almost sounds like a broken hard drive. If you need the files off of the computer, then try getting the hard drive out of the malfunctioning computer. Then get a converter like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=HDD+to+usb&amp;qid=1558640049&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3

Be careful not to touch the green PCB on the bottom of the hard drive. And be sure to take care when plugging in and unplugging the hard drive, the connections on these things are not the strongest. Hard drive are pretty tough though, just don't drop them mostly. xD

Anyway, when you get the hard drive out, go ahead and plug it into the converter then into the working computer USB port and extract the files you need or want. I would suggest copying the files rather that moving them, by default it should be set to copy, just be mindful of this. When you're done, you can plug the hard drive back into the malfunctioning computer and continue to try and fix it with no worries of losing the files you want. Be sure open a picture or video after copying to make sure their not corrupted or broken in some way. A video is best as a single picture is significantly easier to copy without issue, so you should be fine if a video works.

You can check if the hard drive is working sometimes by listening and if you can hear a spin up the hard drive might still work. It can be hard to hear with laptop fans and such.

Here's a video that can help with the hard drive location and the take apart and put together process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YatNrUHN3c4

There are other videos on this too, if you want to to make extra sure.

There are risks to all of this, and it may end badly, but if you're careful the whole time then you should be okay.

I hope you like this book I wrote! And good luck!

--Wolfgang.

u/InsaneDOM · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Would there be a danger of a virus being on a drive? Yea maybe, probably really slim chance. If you're not comfortable putting the drive on your main PC, may I suggest putting on a "dummy" console? (ie a PC you don't give a crap about)

I also suggest you invest a a SATA to USB cable like the one below, I find it useful to see what the content is on a 2.5" drive without having to bust open a PC and slapping in there (yea I'm lazy like that)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z5X4CbSM5P0G4

Just my .02

u/pogidaga · 1 pointr/Windows10

StartTech also makes SATA to USB cables that work great and do the same job.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/e60deluxe · 1 pointr/buildapc
  1. save anything you want to USB.
  2. reset this pc from windows 10 settings. remove all my data.
  3. clone the drive. you will need a USB adapter to do this

    https://www.pcmag.com/feature/363387/how-to-clone-a-hard-drive/4

    https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

    if you dont have a USB adapter, or any way to connect to drives to one computer, then i suggest a completely different method.

    first, while your old drive is still running, connect your windows license to your Microsoft account.

    https://www.windowscentral.com/how-link-your-windows-10-product-key-microsoft-account

    next, swap the drives and then do a clean windows 10 install from USB.

    then, restore the license from your windows account.

    https://www.windowscentral.com/how-re-activate-windows-10-after-hardware-change



    you need to either clone the drive, or do this, otherwise you wont be able to transfer the license key.
u/cha7Li3 · 1 pointr/DestinyTheGame

I running the same one without the case. Honestly SSD are so solidly built you don't even need one. You just need a SATA3 to usb 3.0 cable.

EDIT:. Added my cable.

StarTech.com USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP – SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5Bf.BbHKT0HHB

u/LithiumGrease · 1 pointr/tifu

Well if it helps your data is prob still fine on the hard drive, if you can remove it you can get an adapter to make it like a USB Drive and then you can plug it into another computer and get your files back at least :)

u/maybepants · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

You can also just get the 1TB Samsung 860 EVO for $180 and this:
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/antlicious · 1 pointr/computer

you can always get a "usb to sata" cable. It has both the power and data port.

If you want to keep everything interal, ebay has you covered. Usually a power connector connects to the PSU and it would have several power connectors branching out of that single cable.

Although, I recommend getting the splitter and using your existing cable to connect both hdd and sdd.

Edit: I didn't read that you checked ebay already lol but the pc specialist is BS. your ssd is not mini sata. it's standard sata.

u/stan_qaz · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I'm using a USB to SATA cable to connect my 250 GB SSDs to my Pis, no external power just a 2.5 Amp unit for the Pi. No issues and it sees a fair amount of use as it is serving as an SMB v1 server for my Sonos system.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I've used this case too but it seems silly given the sealed SSDs I'm using:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FQ5R0PG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

If I wanted to use a spinning rust drive I'd buy a different cable that split signal and power and add a second power brick. Don't have this one, an example only.

https://smile.amazon.com/SaiTech-USB-Shape-Micro-cable/dp/B00MFL4HQU/ref=sr_1_4

u/pepo2181 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/nesnalica · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Im the type of guy that just gets a normal HDD and connect them with an USB to SATA Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/

external HDDs are nothing else than that however have a nice looking case and the "Adapter" is inside the case.

u/chupathingee · 1 pointr/IowaCity

There's a possibility the external enclosure is broken but the drive is fine (I've seen this quite a few times). Take it out of the enclosure and try to access the drive directly. If you have a desktop just plug it in as an additional hard drive.

If you only have a desktop you'll need a SATA (assuming this drive isn't ancient - left is IDE right is SATA http://static.diffen.com/uploadz/1/17/SATA-IDE.jpg) adapter to USB. If it's a smaller (2.5" drive) you can probably get away with something like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ If it's a larger 3.5" drive you'll want something with a separate power source, like this https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Adapter-Converter-Optical-External/dp/B01J7MWD4M/ I personally would err on the side of getting the external power adapter myself, to rule out "not enough power" as a reason the drive doesn't work.

edit: I would actually spring for something like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Docking-Station-DS-UBLK/dp/B00IKAQ538/ Only $23 but has a lot of good reviews, I've heard good things about it specifically in the past as well. The last thing you want to do is cheap out on the adapter and think your drive is dead when your adapter is really just crap.

If the drive itself works but the computer doesn't recognize the partitions, try using linux to DD the files over and then mount the partition manually. DM me if you get here and I can either give you some pointers (if you're comfortable with linux CLI) or we may be able to work something out.

If the drive doesn't spin up when you apply power you are dealing with a situation in which you can either accept defeat or pay a LOT of money to have the files recovered professionally.

u/roo-ster · 1 pointr/techsupport

External storage is a stop-gap measure at best; as is cloud storage. But you're in luck, because the 2013 MacBook Pro is easy to upgrade with a larger hard drive or SSD. (Some newer models can't be upgraded.)

  1. Start by checking the 'About This Mac' option in Finder to confirm which model you have.

  2. Decide on the capacity you need to buy. SSDs slow down and become more prone to failure when they're used for long periods at close to their capacity so buy at least one size up from what you use. (e.g. is you store 200GB, don't buy a 250GB, get the 500GB).

  3. If you have any thoughts of adding RAM at the same time, it's cheap, easy to do, and for machines with only 4GB, can significantly improve performance. If you have or are planning to upgrade to OS to Sierra, then you definitely want more than 4GB. Enter your MacBook Pro model information here and they'll show you the right RAM.

  4. Watch a youtube video on how to replace the hard drive. It's super easy; as is adding RAM.

  5. After you're don't you'll reload the OS via the Internet but you'll need a way to connect the old drive to the computer so you can copy your data files to the new drive. An inexpensive USB-SATA adapter will do the job.
u/dschull · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

Don't touch a thing, hook it up to another computer with one of these and run this program here.

u/hunterfg12 · 1 pointr/techsupport

The adapter covers both the sata and power slots so i can put in an individual power connector. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-3-0-Inch-2-5-Inch-Drive-Adapter/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1412791564&amp;amp;sr=1-4&amp;amp;keywords=sata+to+usb+3+0+adapter is the adapter i have. I just realized this is for sata 3. Is that the issue?

u/bagaudin · 1 pointr/Lenovo

Can you tell what exact converter it was, e.g. StarTech?

Also, did it detect the drive if plugged inside the laptop?

u/teckii · 1 pointr/newzealand

I'm using this one with an SSD currently, I also have the Type-C SKU. Just don't leave the drive plugged in when you're transporting it, and get a case for your drive if you've got a HDD, and it should last.

u/MalfeasantMarmot · 1 pointr/techsupport

I'm confused, does the new one have two drives? You say installed on the main SSD, so I assume there's a second one? Like an M.2 drive or something?

Will it boot if you just put the old drive in the new laptop? I've been able to do that then just immediately update all the drivers to those required for the new computer. As long as they're similar types of computers, default drivers should be enough to get you operational long enough to download the required drivers.

You may have to change the bios settings to boot in legacy mode, but it could work.

Personally I would buy one of these, copy all of your data from your old computer to the SSD that came in the new laptop. Put the old one in your new laptop, install your OS of choice, then copy all of your files over. It's the cleanest way to do it.

u/PsychoRecycled · 1 pointr/UBC

In general, it's worth checking how much it'd cost to repair yourself. You can generally buy OEM screens pretty cheap if you're willing to wait for them to ship.

The main blow with damaging a computer tends to be losing the data. Are you sure the hard drive's dead? If it isn't in pieces, I'd give it decent odds: computer have fall detection built in, so the disk will stop spinning - and won't get scratched - if you drop it. Spending twenty bucks on a SATA to USB cable and seeing if it'll spin up tends to be worth it. Having that guy lying you around can make you a pretty big hero if you come across anyone with a damaged computer.

u/ThatFlamingBlock · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

yes, then you can get everything important off the HDD and move it on the SDD, you can still use the HDD as a external drive, but due to potential unreliability you should get everything important off.

Basically you would use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/Source-IWorkForApple · 1 pointr/applehelp

You can take out the hard drive and plug it into another machine using one of these.

What happens if you hold "option" while booting?

u/colin8696908 · 1 pointr/techsupport

You need a cable like this, just pull your hard drive out and connect it to your new computer it will act the same as a USB flash drive.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1486075304&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=hard+drive+converter

u/nonegotiation · 1 pointr/AskTechnology

I'm in the same situation as you. My WD My Book crapped the bed. It still spins up but the computer sees no writable partitions. The I/O light doesn't even blink anymore. Just stays solid. Although, I got the cable just right once and I was able to slowly copy a few files over before the problem started repeating again. So this leads me to believe it is a port/cable issue. It was even still under warranty. But you have to ship it back to them and they ship you a NEW one. If you want your data recovered you have to send to to a third party first. WD says they destroy your data but I don't trust it.

The WD My Books are just HDDs with a shell so you should be able to swap the HD with another working WD Mybook

You can also take the case off and it has an adapter on the HDD to change it from 2.5SATA to USB 3.0 micro b that you can slide off and make it a normal HDD. So if you have an extra PC or trust yourself installing a second HDD in your current PC you could try that. I attempted this and failed. But I contributed it to trying to install a 4TB hd on an old dell with 2GHz processor and 2gbs ram. Even when I set my bios to boot to the Dells original Seagate HDD, the dell still tries to boot from the 4tb WD drive that never had an OS on it. And plugging it into an already booted computer failed too (risky move but I was desperate).

I've got three more solutions I'm gonna try. Gonna email WD an ask istead of replacing my drive if they will send me a new SATA to SS adapter and a new cable that comes with it. If not, Hopefully a USB 3.0 to 2.5 SATA cable does the trick.

And if all else fails. An HDD dock seems like my favorite and an all round better solution than external WD my books.

You shouldn't have to solder anything. But I haven't been successful at recovering the data so what do I know hahaha

Good luck.

u/ferapy · 1 pointr/techsupport

1 Cloning is the way to go as there is no real evidence a clean install of windows is better. however it's a lot more time consuming.

2 on HDD, delete recycling bin and as many files/unused programs as possible. Then long degrag drive using degraggler

3 use this guide if windows doesn't recognize ur new SSD.

4 Follow this guide using Macrium Reflect to clone HDD to SSD. Here is a step by step video

If you have a laptop and only space for one drive you'll need to clone to the SSD while it's external and need a USB to SATA cable, enclosure etc. An enclosure might be a better choice if later you plan on using the HDD for external storage. The cable is a better choice if you plan on doing this often, for friends.


Edit: Reddit has been a total bust for computer support for me. I just condensed 15+hrs of research and execution into a few simple steps, links included, and it's downvoted. Now I know why so few people are willing to help here

u/therealkindaskater · 1 pointr/Portland

what? either connect them internally with sata cables, or buy a large external drive and copy all the files to that. if you need an adapter to transfer things, here: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/Kyle_Necrowolf · 1 pointr/xboxone

I've never once heard of DRAMless drives (and I've seen a lot of SSDs) - I really don't think it's a common term you need to be familiar with...

All you need to check are read speeds, write speeds, and most importantly, reviews. The rest of the specs really do not matter in everyday use. Modern SSDs will last a long time, probably longer than you'll ever need - but read reviews to be sure.

I've had no problems with a number of Samsung, SanDisk, and a few Kingston drives - haven't tried any others.

Also just FYI, minimum drive size is 240GB for Xbox. Your dock must also support USB 3.0 (required for Xbox), and ideally UASP. If yours does not meet that requirement, my personal recommendation for SSDs is actually a simple cable - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ - I bought a bunch of these and they work great, far more convenient than any dock or enclosure, cheaper too.

As for the thumb drive... those typically have slow read speeds and even slower write speeds. Would not normally recommend, but it might work. Depends on the specific drives you have.

u/bluesmokewizard · 1 pointr/techsupport

Beep codes mean there is most likely a hardware issue, this website here supposedly can help you identify where the start looking https://www.acerrepairblog.us/aspire-5920g/phoenix-bios-beep-codes.html

Honestly with a laptop that old there is bound to be some part of the board or memory giving out. The good news is that it sounds like the hard drive could still be perfectly fine. You can buy something like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3 that can take your hard drive and mount it on someone else's PC to recover data.

u/WhatevsBrah · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I realize I'm late to the party but i figured I'd let you know what I've been using for a while now and am very happy with.

http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1416455113&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=crucial+mx100

and this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

There is no need to get an enclosure for an SSD drive. I learned that the hard way when i realized the chipset on the enclosure i bought was putting off more heat than the SSD itself.

Great thing about the SSD... you can change the interface. No USB3 but have eSATA?

Bam
http://www.amazon.com/Shared-eSATA-Cable-Laptop-Drive/dp/B002MKKTWA/ref=sr_1_25?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1416455341&amp;amp;sr=1-25&amp;amp;keywords=SATA+to+esata

Edit...

And you'll get way better performance too.

u/liquidrive · 1 pointr/laptops

TL;DR: the most straightforward way to swap a drive is the external USB disk method I described before. But if you want to get fancy, read below.

(apologies if this is information overload and just confusing you more. Then just ignore this post)

It's possible to clone your internal SSD directly to the new SSD without two slots, depending on the SSD you are using.

If it's a standard 2.5in SATA drive (something like this) then you can attach the new drive to your laptop over USB with a cable like this one). This will be faster, easier and cheaper than using the external drive method I mentioned earlier.

If it's an m.2 SATA SSD (like this one) you can also attach it via USB with an adaptor (like this one)

If it's an m.2 NVMe drive and you only have one slot... then you need to do the external USB disk method I mentioned before.

&amp;#x200B;

u/CurbStomp64 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Yes. A cable like this will provide power and data.

u/Charizard9000 · 1 pointr/buildapc

the program says it will migrate your OS onto an ssd, but honestly it's not recommended. there are so many individual little driver installs for certain motherboard functions and chipset features that are already installed on your current pc and would carry over to the new build and make a bunch of problems.

it's best practice to do a fresh windows install for a new pc and adding an ssd.

i dont know what kind of system you currently have, but this is what i would do if i were you:

  • get the parts you have listed for your new build

  • take a screenshot(s) of you Programs and Features window to remember all the crap you installed

  • grab this 10 dollar adapter

  • when your parts come, use that adapter to copy everything you need off your old system onto your new 1T hdd (docs, pics, video, downloads, steam games, etc)

  • install a fresh windows 10 onto your new machine with just the ssd plugged in, after you have windows installed add the 1T hdd to your build and all your files will be there

  • install previously referenced crap on new pc

    and then you're back to 100% without cloning errors
u/Hawkdup45 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ok do you have a Sata to USB cable? So you can disconnect it from the motherboard, boot the system then plug in that hard drive via USB to possibly see what's going on or format that drive to see if it helps? Here's a link to what I'm referring to, https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/Emerald_Flame · 1 pointr/buildapc

I don't think I've ever seen anything specifically for 5.25" drives.

You can get USB to SATA adapter cables that should work, but it wouldn't have a nice enclosure.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/couponsftw · 1 pointr/buildapc

In my desktop I'm using a standard 2.5" ssd. I will soon be moving and will be using a laptop that I have. Will I be able to continue to use this ssd in my laptop using a usb to sata cable such as this? Any potential issues?

u/fluffyunicorn1 · 1 pointr/techsupport

You could try booting a windows 10 instillation media and formatting your drive that way. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10ISO


Or


Plug the harddrive into a different computer using a usb dongle https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=internal+hard+drive+usb&amp;amp;qid=1567380255&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-14

Then open disk management in windows 10 and if your drive appears in this tool you should be able to reformat it. If not it may be a lost cause.

u/particlegun · 1 pointr/computerhelp

You could remove the hard drive from the laptop and plug it into a desktop pc in a spare drive bay.

Or alternatively, get a USB to SATA adapter and use it as an external drive so you can grab the files off the drive.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-comUSB-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable-Black/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/wantkitteh · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm sure you have a good reason for actually wanting to do this (either that or sleep deprivation has finally overcome my better judgement) but you could use the following two items (or functional equivalents available in your region) in combination:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-CBUB09-15BK-Internal-Adapter-Cable/dp/B005LDY0SO

https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-comUSB-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable-Black/dp/B00HJZJI84

Just take it and don't say another word, hopefully I'll forget I gave you the advice you actually asked for when I do finally fall asleep rather than trying to fathom out the why and work out how to get you the desired configuration you wanted without resorting to jank.

u/pkkid · 1 pointr/windows

Maybe not Windows XP, but Windows 10 definetly worked on an SSD and connecting via this SATA to USB3 adapter. I would bring the drive with me to play Windows game in various places. No issues at all; Although all locations were using Nvidia cards. Bonus: I was also able to get VirtualBox to boot from the drive as well from a Linux host.

u/E-werd · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You could more than likely put it in another laptop, but not at the same time as the existing hard drive. One of these would serve you well.

u/gummibear049 · 1 pointr/SuggestALaptop

I'd recommend backing up everything to an external HDD.


You can also plug the old HDD into one of these SATA to USB cables and be able to get your files that way.


https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84


For the installed programs, you'd probably want to re-install them after you install the OS on the SSD.

u/Urano_Metria · 1 pointr/buildapc

Don't you just need something like this?

Edit: Never mind, looks like the full enclosure you posted is actually cheaper.

u/yosoywilson78 · 1 pointr/PUBGXboxOne

You dont need an enclosure. Just SATA to USB 3.x adapter. I picked mine up for $4 off Ebay.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/adamborecki · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Agreed! At recoding.LA, we use several “internal” SSD with an SATA to USB cables for mobile data, and it works great

Links below


Samsung SSD 860 EVO 500GB 2.5 inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XXCmDbSNSTHY4

StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7YCmDbZ1EV31R


Also, remember to backup your data! Any hard drive can die at any moment for no reason at all

u/foldedlikeaasiansir · 1 pointr/techsupport

Never buy cables from BestBuy!

StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZKLoDbZP6KE8T

u/kiwiandapple · 1 pointr/techsupport

If you don't plan to use most of the files of the old laptop, then you would indeed need to get a USB SATA adapter. You can buy them on Amazon for $9.99.

The only thing that I am not entirely aware of is that this HD is in its own cage, which is the black plastic around the hard drive. It then uses the SATA data cable to connect to the motherboard on your old laptop.
I am not entirely sure, but based on the picture I believe it is a proprietary cable that is used to provide both power &amp; data to the HDD.

So, you should hopefully be able to get the HDD out of that cage, which will then show you something like this.
Which is the connection you need to have available to use said USB adaptor.

Edit: had the wrong picture, kind of a facepalm moment.

u/arahman81 · 1 pointr/buildapc

https://lifehacker.com/how-to-migrate-to-a-solid-state-drive-without-reinstall-5837543

This should work. Use an adapter/enclosure to connect the SSD to PC, clone HDD to SSD (follow the article), disconnect HDD, connect SSD.

u/KrispyKookie · 1 pointr/techsupport

Assuming you bought something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
the hard drive is powered through the USB port on your computer.

u/TacticalBastard · 1 pointr/laptops

Something like this will be what you need.

u/rglassey · 1 pointr/applehelp

First off, ignore any included software that comes with a drive. Always always always. Invariably this is written for PC, is even then highly proprietary (read duff), and the tools that come with a Mac are more than good enough.

Maybe I missed it, but have you not tried installing the SSD directly in A? This would get past the problem of the enclosure not working. You should then be able to boot off the USB, and use Disk Utility to format the SSD for OS X. If Disk Utility doesn't see it (which I now see your third bullet covers) then it looks very much like a duff SSD.

Rather than banging your head off a wall, you first of all need to verify the SSD is good. Maybe get one of those SATA to USB interfaces that are a few bucks that let you run a notebook sized drive externally, yet naked, so no enclosure. They're pretty cheap and a spare one is always handy to have, and with SSDs there isn't really even any point in an enclosure as they're normally in one. But from what you've said, you've tried the enclosure and directly inside A, so I'd reckon it's just dead.

u/rasple · 1 pointr/thinkpad

You can either get yourself a bootable windows on a USB flash drive which you can choose as boot device in your bios to install windows on your new SSD (there are several tutorials online on how to do this for example here) or you can do what I did and get a USB-adapter like that one and use it to clone an exact image of your existing drive onto your SSD (I used dd in linux but there is software like acronis that should enable you to do the same in windows) given of course that your SSD is not smaller than the content of your HDD.

u/unafragger · 1 pointr/answers

I mean there are so many choices.

You can just get a cable. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

You can get external HDD enclosures that you just plug into a USB port.

You can get NAS docks (Network Attached Storage) that let you just attach hard drives to your network so you can access them from multiple computers.

You can just build a machine to do it as well with hot swappable drives.

There are SO many choices. What's your end goal?

u/OoluKaPatha · 1 pointr/techsupport

Yeah I download a lot of movies/shows so I definitely wouldn't want to go all the way down to a 128/256 GB SSD, since that's about the most I could afford with a SSD. Rather save up to replace this laptop.

Are 5400 RPM drives preferred over 7200? I was always under the impression 7200 was better with its faster speeds (at least before SSDs came out)

As for the Seagate Hybrid. Am I understanding the tech correctly? Its basically an 8 GB SSD with a 1 TB traditional HD. And the OS would go on the SSD part while everything else goes on the traditional side?

Do you have any resources on replacing the HD? I was planning on buying this cable:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;dpID=41RlR-Q1siL&amp;amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=CMVE184DYW1R1YM8P7EG

and then cloning my current drive and then its just swapping the two? but how exactly does it know to put the OS on the SSD portion?

Thanks again for all your help, I really appreciate it.

u/minacrime · 1 pointr/applehelp

It looks like a standard 2.5" hard drive. You would buy a cable like this, plug it into the new computer, and cross your fingers.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sata+usb&amp;qid=1566309539&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3

By default, your iTunes Media folder is in your iTunes folder:

  • Mac: Open a Finder window, then click Go &gt; Home &gt; Music &gt; iTunes.
  • Windows 7 or later: Go to \Users\username\Music\
    .
  • Windows XP: Go to \Documents and Settings\username\My Documents\My Music\
    .
u/GreenChileEnchiladas · 1 pointr/techsupport

The way to reinstall Windows is to download the image, then use something like Rufus to create a USB drive. Use this drive to install Windows on the SSD.

Then you update and install whatever programs you want.

Then you install your old HDD inside the PC, I assume this is a desktop - if it's a laptop you'll need special hardware, then you boot to the new Windows and your old HDD should be visible. Then you pick over it like a corpse and extract all the juicy documents you want to keep. Once you have everything you want removed, you format the old HDD. It can now be used as a storage drive.

EDIT: and by 'Documents' I mean "Not Programs"

u/BarefootBonanza · 1 pointr/applehelp

I think the mid-2010 was one of the last models that it was possible to replace the insides. Price is currently about $182

SSD- http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-256GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7KE256BW/dp/B00LMXBOP4

RAM- http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC3-8500-204-Pin-CT2K4G3S1067M-CT2C4G3S1067M/dp/B008LTBJFM

SATA cable- http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;refRID=0R44VTK7S236H4M8A2MC

Crucial has a good compatibility page that shows what works in that year computer but only for their products. Its nice to compare what you will be getting and what definitely works just to make sure. But, I've had no problems with any of the things above
http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/compatible-upgrade-for//macbook-pro-%2813-inch%2C-mid-2010%29

u/techsupport_SS · 1 pointr/SubredditSimulator

Actually, it is a lot of money your performance is going to happen is all of your help. Tried doing this and following the step by step on how to change the fan speed to 100%, but it doesn't seem related to the Fn Keys which you can use this (http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1451602163&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=usb+to+sata) to have it at its "upper limit" of memory?

u/machstem · 1 pointr/RandomKindness

Hi,

Depending on the severity of the drive failure, there might be a great chance of recovery using simple forensic tools, or no chance based solely on the fact that the drive doesn't spin anymore.

I recovered about 100gb of data from my wife's dying Mac drive, but it wasn't completely done for by the time I got to it.

I am not sure how to help you, especially considering the physical nature of the problem.

I guess I can run you through some questions and maybe gain a little more knowledge before trying things out.

  • When you turn your Macbook on, what do you? (e.g. A question mark inside a folder?)

  • After you boot your Macbook up, place your ear near where the hard drive is; do you hear a "clicking" noise.

  • Make sure you don't turn on the laptop with the drive plugged in unless you absolutely need to; the more strain you put on it, the lesser chances of discovering if the drive can be recovered

  • Do you have access to another Mac or Apple computer?

  • Can you afford to buy this sort of tool: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

    Basically, you will probably want to remove the drive from your Macbook, which isn't really tough to do, but you do need some fairly specific screwdrivers and a guide (video or text/pictures)

    To get you going on that front, I will need the make and model of the laptop (e.g. Macbook Pro Early 2014)

    On the recovery front, you need software. If this were a PC/Windows machine with a simple partition, you could use recuvah or other tools. When I had to do it on a Mac, I couldn't afford the software and instead opted for a pirated copy. I can't condone this, but send me a PM and we can try and find you a good deal.

    Basically, what you want to do is leave your laptop turned off. You want to remove the battery, then find all the small screws on the backside of the laptop. You will remove the bottom which will then give you access to things like changing/upgrading your memory and/or hard drive.

    The hard drives on a Mac typically have these little metal nubs in the thread holes that almost require a specialized tool kit (like I mentioned before, I will link after my wall of text)

    Once you remove the drive, you plug in the USB2SATA connector to the drive, and then plug it into the other Macbook using the USB adapter.

    If and when you can get to this point, the entire process afterward is trying to figure out if the drive is completely dead or just starting to die.

    I completely understand your frustrations; we lost a LOT of videos and pictures, but we learned from our mistakes and have taken appropriate measures to back up our important stuff using services like flickr.com, google drive and Microsoft OneDrive. Apple also offers a reasonably priced cloud service on iCloud.

    You can PM me or we can communicate on this thread, but if we can at least get you to the point of discovering whether or not you are going to recover things, it will help ease out the next steps.

    Once you have the drive removed, do yourself a favor and place it in a static bag if you can, or a simple static free sandwich bag (sealed) with a small silica gel bag in it (to remove any and all moisture on the internal components).

    Let me know!

    https://www.amazon.ca/Silverhill-Tools-ATKPRO-Toolkit-computers/dp/B00GS7OXCK
u/Bocaprowler · 1 pointr/PS4

You cannot just put the 2tb into the Pro and have all the stuff you had.

You can do a full backup of your current ps4 2tb, but you will need an external drive to do it.

You should at minimum, backup your saved games/screenshots to a USB drive.

You could remove the PS4 Pro's 1TB drive, format it and use it as the external drive if you have or get an external enclosure or an adapter like https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1511971126&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=hdd+to+usb+3.0

When I purchased my Pro I also purchased a 2TB SSHD to go with it. I never even turned on the Pro with it's original HDD. You will have to download the latest firmware, the full version onto a USB. You will need that when changing hard drives.http://dus01.ps4.update.playstation.net/update/ps4/image/2017_1018/rec_8d6b9274217351daf0b3811622ed68e4/PS4UPDATE.PUP

u/Excal2 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yea it would probably work, but you could also just buy a sata+power to USB adapter and plug it into your computer if you know where the notes are in your file system.

I use one of these all the time:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/LifeofMuck · 1 pointr/kodi

How about something like this instead? No need for an enclosure perhaps:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=SATA+to+USB+Cable&amp;qid=1565235845&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-10

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=SATA+to+USB+Cable&amp;qid=1565218171&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3

But I guess if you think an enclosure is better, I'll probably grab this one:https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-Adapter-Housing/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=SSD+external+enclosure&amp;qid=1565214839&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4And just tape over the LED or somethin'

I think enclosures support TRIM while SATA to USB adapters don't but it sounds like no one uses/gives a fuck about TRIM anymore. I imagine both of those solutions should work.

u/wordgoeshere · 1 pointr/techsupport

Depending on how much stuff is on your HDD, this would probably be just fine:

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/cklfuk/ssd_wd_blue_3d_nand_500gb_internal_ssd_5499_w/

Here's a guide to cloning your drive:
https://www.easeus.com/backup-utility/how-to-migrate-to-a-solid-state-disk-without-reinstalling-windows.html

If you don't have a spare sata cable to connect both drives to your computer at the same time, get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84

u/zedrox464 · 1 pointr/hackintosh

Try making a windows install usb to install windows since windows dvds are extremely outdated and usb are just faster. If that doesn't work what you could do is buy this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=usb+to+sata&amp;qid=1566769151&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFSRzNGMUs3NkRJUEMmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1MzEwMDkxRFcxNFE4TFVWNDhXJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTEwNDA1NTAyVENFU0QyTVBJWFpWJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

This adapter allows you to take out the hard drives and connect them via usb to another windows computer. You could use a partition manager(if windows built in one doesn;t work, I reccomend minitool partition wizard) to format it to ntfs, and put it back in your system and install windows

u/PirateKilt · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yes, the Samsung SSD drives come with a very effective cloning software.

You just need to buy a cable to connect the new drive to USB to clone your old drive onto it.

I did that Exact upgrade a couple months ago.

u/Blastest · 1 pointr/techsupport

Would maybe a SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable compared to a hard drive docking station is any difference in performance or the same?

Adapter Cable: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_11?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1465846087&amp;amp;sr=1-11&amp;amp;keywords=hard+drive+docking+station

u/lotuswebdeveloper · 1 pointr/SuggestALaptop

The PCIe SSD is faster than the SATA, but you probably know that already.

You can get an adapter and use it as an external hard-drive: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=TW0SHGRAR2PYQ4HQ5CBW

This thread might also be helpful: https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/3rr5y1/xps_15_9550_internal_25_hd_slot/

u/stoopid_monkey254 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Yep, agree with the other guy. You’ll need an adapter so your computer can read the drive.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;amp;qid=1563420014&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;amp;psc=1

Plug the weird looking end into the drive carefully, ensure it’s straight on there and not at an angle. Plug the rectangular end into the computer and open windows explorer. The files should be there on the left side navigation pane. Windows will give it a drive letter like D: or E:

u/Ottonym · 1 pointr/SeattleWA

They have gadgets that can connect a drive (IDE/SATA/etc) to an adapter that gives you a USB connection - it basically makes a drive into a USB drive.

IDE to USB: https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G

SATA to USB: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

You could pull the drive from this busted screen machine and then use this gadget to plug into another computer and then use tools to triple-wipe the drive.

Popular drive wiping tools: https://www.techrepublic.com/blog/five-apps/five-hard-disk-cleaning-and-erasing-tools/

u/ObiWontchaBlowMe · 1 pointr/kodi

What you're looking for is called a NAS or Network Attached Storage. These can be as simple as plugging a external HDD with a SATA to USB cable into a USB port in your router, to buying a multi HDD enclosure, to a diy NAS with some parts you may have laying around.

I started out with a cheap 2hdd Dlink enclosure similar to the one above but I now have a diy 6-disk 16Tb home server running FreeNAS as the operating system.

u/J3D1M4573R · 1 pointr/techsupport

TL;DR - but made it through the first 3 paragraphs.

From that, I can say for certain that the drive is dead - the fact your system slows to a crawl once it is connected is a good identifier of this.

Now, I have had some luck in the past with the following steps:

  • wrap the drive in very absorbent paper towel
  • seal the wrapped drive in air tight ziplock bag
  • freeze the drive for 24 hours (providing a nice long deep freeze)
  • unseal/unwrap frozen drive and connect EXTERNALLY (This is a great tool for this - but only works on 2.5in drives)
  • quickly start pulling files (once the drive thaws, game over)

    The details behind this method is that when you freeze the drive, the components constrict slightly, providing some buffer space for the heads to move along the drive without contact. If this does not work for you, then your only option is to send it in for professional recovery. My method here is fairly "safe" from doing further damage to the drive, since, you know, the details behind the method.

    BE CAREFUL the paper towel and air tight sealed bag is a must or you will get moisture in the drive during freezing - and this will mess it up good.


    ALTERNATIVE (and you must be really good, and very precise)
    Find another drive of the EXACT make and model of the drive that has failed. Dismantle it and swap the platters (alignment of the platters must be exact, and be careful not to damage the heads) The dead drive's platters with the good drive's components will allow you to recover the data - in fact, you can leave it like this since it's basically a new drive. This is essentially how professional data recovery is done (although they pull the platters and mount them on a special machine to read the raw data and recompile it)
u/Senor_Incredible · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If you have another computer, you may be able to take the hard drive out (assuming you only have data on there, no OS files) and plug it via an adapter like this. You can then download and move the driver files onto the hard drive and plug it back into your PC.

Like these people are saying though, you may be better off reinstalling Windows.

u/yo-yo-baggins · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

Buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-External-Aluminum-Enclosure/dp/B00E362W9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1484077336&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=laptop+hard+drive+enclosure

and

https://www.amazon.com/Jakemy-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics-Appliances/dp/B019ZSK57K/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1484077395&amp;amp;sr=8-9&amp;amp;keywords=screwdriver+set+small

Here is an altnerative to the case:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1484077470&amp;amp;sr=1-7&amp;amp;keywords=laptop+hard+drive

In all likleyhood the hard drive has gone bad.

They do that you know.

You want a laptop 2.5 inch hard drive. SATA is really the only choice for interface these days.

Now would be a great time to move up to an SSD. I have a laptop at home that is a bunch of years old. I put an SSD in it last year and it really added a lot of zip to it.

When you put the OS on it you can go ahead and put W8.1 on it, but the Free W10 upgrade is still running if you know where to get it from:

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/accessibility/windows10upgrade

What you would do is install 8.1 from the disks you have. Get the internet up, go to the desktop, don't bother with any updates (huge waste of time if you are just gonna follow through with W10) and go to that site I posted and follow there instructions.

Bonus points! Once you successfully do a W10 upgrade from W8 there is no more Windows key to worry about! Any future OS reinstall on this laptop Microsoft uses a unique identifier in the BIOS to do the validation.

u/Shakraka · 1 pointr/buildapc

I asked here before about checking if my SSD works or not, but I did some searching around and now I was wondering if I could use this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84 to check my open box Samsung 850 Evo 500gb to see if it works or not? And also test it for any problems?

Edit: important to note that I do not have a PC to install this in, just my laptop that I don't want to use my SSD with. (I am building a PC soon)

u/Nexdeus · 0 pointsr/pcmods

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

I have one of these that I used in conjunction with this software to clone over my drives from a smaller to larger partition.

https://www.aomeitech.com/download.html?from=en_nav_download

I think there was an option in this software to also create an image of the drive, but that may have been a paid feature. You can also try doing a VMware backup image, and then restoring from that.

u/SHOPLIFTING_THROWAWA · 0 pointsr/buildapc

StarTech.com USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP – SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UoTOCbWTK78PV

u/MrElrey · 0 pointsr/forza

Cheaper method and just get a 7200 rpm 2.5 because they usually use less voltage so no need to have all them extra cables, my little setup And if HDD isn't your issue might just be your xbox's cpu/gpu dying off rip https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1478791981&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=sata+to+usb

u/orangesolo · 0 pointsr/gadgets

How does it defeat the purpose? Here you go. $130 compared to $200? I'll take $130.

u/ntr0p · 0 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Greetings PC overlords:

Could someone help me identify which kind of cable I could use to hook up a couple of ancient (10-15yr?) hard drives? I do not even know what they are called...sata something?

They are both slightly different, so I'm wondering if I need two different converter cables or if there is a universal one I could use. Could I use something like this? amazon

Photo of HDs here

Thanks kindly.

u/d33ptilter · 0 pointsr/gadgets

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j3k4CbDVPYFSV

I have a couple around the house. Useful when cloning a HDD/SDD. I replaced the HDD in my PC to SSD (best value-for-money performance upgrade) and now I use that old HDD as an external drive with one of these cables.

You can get fancier ones with a proper enclosure if you like.

u/HiImRobertPaulson · 0 pointsr/xboxone
u/sudogreg · 0 pointsr/24hoursupport

pull the hard drive, if its wet, make it dry, bag of rice, the usual... salvage data first. plug that drive into another computer (usb-sata would work well) get your data safe first. then worry about the rest.

get this and keep that drive in a hag of rice until it comes in - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1467135731&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=usb+sata

u/saiyate · 0 pointsr/computers

#1, Upgrade to Windows 10 right now. There is ZERO reason to be using Windows 8, It's all but deprecated at this point. It will detect your Windows 8 key and convert it to a 10 key. Download the iso, do an "In Place Upgrade" by mounting the iso (double click it) then run setup. Download HERE. Make sure you have a good 60GB of space for rollback if needed.

#2 Since Windows 7, drivers and libraries are cached. What you see as 4.5GB in use is not correct at all. There is likely less than 3GB actually in use, the rest will dynamically move out of RAM the MOMENT you need the RAM for something else.

#3 Don't use antivirus, there is no need these days. Windows Defender is fine. Install Malware Bytes if you need to do some cleaning, then uninstall it. (which will free up more memory)

#4 open up task manager, go to the startup tab, and see what you have that opens on startup. Disable crap you don't need.

#5 RAM is astonishingly cheap right now, but because of chinese tariffs, may be going up. You can grab another 16GB for $60. you have two slots free, Do it up. Looks like 1333Mhz DDR3. $60 for 2x8GB DDR3

Edit: #6 and if you don't have an SSD get one now, they are also astonishingly cheap. Get a Samsung, use the live data migration utility with a USB to SATA adapter. You can literally copy the entire OS to the SSD while the computer is running. Then just rip out your mechanical drive, and install the SSD in it's place. Done. Lighting fast computer. Samsung 860 Evo 500GB/ USB to SATA/ 2.5" to 3.5" adapter / Samsung Data Migration Utility

u/BlownHappyKid · -1 pointsr/pcmasterrace

ARE YOU SERIOUS??? KEEP AND UTILIZE THEM!!!


YOU STRUCK THE MOTHER-FUCK-LOAD OF GOLD!


&amp;#x200B;

Hold on, there's more! Get this too so you can use the SATA to USB! Thank me later!

CONGRATULATIONS!

u/MrSquigglypuff · -1 pointsr/HowToHack

If it's a windows OS, you can buy this adapter then hook the HDD up to your own PC and follow this guide.

u/GreatWombat · -2 pointsr/PS4

Get a usb 3 to sata adapter and you can copy your data from your old drive to your new drive (Just copy from your drive to a computer then back.) You can search "USB 3 to sata adapter" for a device. I found a cheap one from a manufacture I've used before. Amazon Link

u/chancesTaken_ · -8 pointsr/mac

StarTech.com USB3S2SAT3CB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0nzcBbJPZ1FZG