(Part 3) Best computer recording equipment according to redditors
We found 3,262 Reddit comments discussing the best computer recording equipment. We ranked the 419 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
If you have a Mac, mess around with Garageband, it's free. Logic is a good software for Mac once you get more serious, and it's relatively cheap compared to some. Ableton and FL Studio are good softwares too. As for the keyboard, I would recommend the M-Audio Keystation Mini only because that is what I use at the studio and it's simple but works great. All you have to do is plug in the usb to your computer and start playing.
Yes good point, but not as important point today as it was 5 years ago. Almost all new gear uses USB for MIDI anyway. If you really have old gear you can always get a separate USB-MIDI adapter there is no real reason why it has to be on the audio interface.
http://smile.amazon.com/Roland-UM-ONE-MK2-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00967UN50/
With a sound card made for studio usage, lag/latency shouldn't be a major issue. Some basic knowledge is required to set it up, but that same knowledge is required for any sort of computer-based recording, so it's easy to come by these days! There's tons of materials about this online, but I'll write a brief summary (not to be considered a tutorial!).
(I'm assuming Windows usage here. For Macs, the default sound card may be good enough -- it was in my 2006 and 2011 Macbook Pros. Apple's Core Audio API is really good for a OS stock one!)
You need a sound card (or: "audio interface") with good ASIO drivers. In practice, that means one that is designed for studio use. That doesn't have to mean anything very expensive, though. The cheapest ones are about $100-120, but a pretty decent one is probably more like $180.
A few examples:
FocusRite Scarlett 2i2 (a 2nd generation is on the way, so I wouldn't recommend this right now. Also, I returned my Scarlett 2i4 due to having issues.)
Roland Quad Capture (the one I use personally)
Presonus AudioBox 22VSL
The sound card you already have might work well enough with the ASIO4ALL driver, in which case you may be able to use the hardware you already have.
Once you have one of those, you install the drivers and set up the ASIO latency or buffer size (different names, same thing) to some low value. You might have to tweak this -- having too low a value will cause dropouts as the computer doesn't have time to apply effects and so on before it's time to move the sound to the speakers.
With that in place, there are a few ways to go. You need some sort of effects (like amplifiers, cabinets, delays, EQs and so on); the easy way to do this is to use some package. I mostly use Guitar Rig for this, but there are plenty of others, such as AmpliTube and Peavey ReValver. There are fully free options as well, e.g. the LePou plugins.
You can use those in several ways. The simplest would be to use a simple audio editor, like Audacity. Another way would be to use a DAW (Digital Audio Workstation), i.e. an application used for recording music, with tracks and mixers.
I use REAPER for that, as it's about $60 and I still prefer it to ones that cost ten times as much. Other popular choices are Cubase, Logic (Mac), Pro Tools, and so on.
So, yeah, it's a bit of an involved process... but once you're there, the main difference between playing for fun (to a track or by yourself) and recording an album is clicking the record button before you start playing. :)
As for cost, that really varies. If you're lucky and your sound card works well with ASIO4ALL (or you have a Mac and that works well), you can do this for free. If you need to buy a sound card and want to use the software legally, you might have to pay a few hundred bucks for the combo.
Midiplus, it's actually not that bad to be honest, it is beginning to break in and loosen up a bit
Certainly!
I started with this controller and this plug in. You can map the buttons, sliders, knobs, etc to virtually any adjustment in lightroom.
This controller is WAY better, motorized sliders which is immensely useful. As with anything in the photography world, its expensive. But my time is $$$!
Sure!
My gear is easily affordable (except a few choice pieces being the studio monitors and the PC itself).
I use a Focusrite Saffire Pro 40 - Which is overkill for recording, but I have other projects that involve a lot more inputs. The Focusrite Scarlett is more than adequate for this kind of work.
For my Mic, I use a [Rode NT2A] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/R%C3%98DE-NT2AANNIV-NT2A-STUDIO-PACK/dp/B004L06ZCM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415053266&sr=8-2&keywords=) for the bulk of the recording, I have a few smaller Clip on mics for some more sensitive recording.
For my electronic audio samples, I use a [Alesis QX61] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/ALESIS-QX61-Master-keyboards-Keys/dp/B006Z6VIZO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1415053433&sr=8-7&keywords=Alesis+Q) which for this kind of work is not necessary at all.
As for Software, this can get a little expensive but I've built this up over the years, I use Ableton Live 9 and a list of plugins to extensive to name, but 90% of the recorded samples have been edited very little, and if they have, the default suite plugins are more than adequate (EQ, Reverb etc).
I only really have to dig into specialist plugins when looking to create a certain effect - such as space, etc.
Yes, you need a multi-channel audio interface, then you can map the channels within any DAW.
Here's a cheap 8 channel mixer that I've used in the past: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIXF200
I use Reaper for the latter.
If you are at a university, then the music department should have an 8 channel mixer you can use. There should be a tech guy who knows how to do this.
You can use a pc and something like this FORE USB IN-OUT MIDI Interface Converter/Adapter with 5-PIN DIN MIDI Cable for PC/ Laptop/ Mac Color Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719V8MX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-bJOzbTK7AJN2
P
The only other alternative you have is to change our your drum brain for one with real midi out. There are lots of midi to usb cables that work passively, but anything that's usb to midi pretty much requires a pc in the loop.
A Dtx700 brain has 5 pin in and out.
And for those that down vote these questions, why... I know that it's been asked before but almost everything posted here has been posted before. The downside voting here is nuts.
logic for tracking. superior drummer to program drums (this is pretty much industry standard now).
get this pod studio. it'll come with tones that people generally use and there are plenty of metalcore tones you can find online. no need for and pedals or anything.
I'd probably get something like this for my audio interface. http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-40-Professional-Firewire-Interface/dp/B001MZQEZ2
Pick up some Shure Sm57's for your mics. As far as the computer, it depends on whether you or someone else wants to build the system yourself or not. You'll get a better deal if you buy all of the components and install them yourself.
Without hearing the original this is all a guess, but from your description here's how I would approach making the music. It is definitely possible (and probably made) from software alone:
Do you have a DAW? Get one if you don't! Many different available ones for cheap, such as Steinberg's Cubase and Presonus Studio One. Whatever you get, make sure it supports VST plugins - these are the bits of software that you use to make sounds. The DAW is the core of your workflow and it is what will organize your music.
Second, see if your piano can interface with your PC - with luck you should be able to run it both USB and MIDI. Your PC is not built to take MIDI input from scratch, so you will have to invest in an audio interface to make your digital piano work.
Alternatively, a MIDI KEYBOARD like this is a plug and play deal. It will allow you to program MIDI within a DAW. It doesn't make its own sound but it will let you interface with the vst plugins.
There are tons of tutorials online on how to make electro tracks - try those first (trance is a good place to start) to get familiar with the synths and how they generally work. Drums, pads, vocals will soon come into play as well.
Future Funk is characterized by sampling from existing songs. Google around for some samples that you like - I'm sure something will fit the bill. Edit these and incorporate them into your song!
You should have some kind of song with structure and individual parts written down. You will then have to MIX and MASTER the track, but that's a whole different conversation.
There's a lot to talk about, but that's the general gist of it. PM me if you have questions.
Line 6 hardware is usually pretty cheap and does the job. I have http://www.amazon.com/Line-6-POD-Studio-GX/dp/B001EHWD0I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1299001350&sr=8-2 and it's great.
This will have what you want to know: http://www.creativeedgemusic.com/2013/03/hi-z-vs-lo-z-impedance-di-boxes-preamps.html
Any DI box will do really. An Interface would really be your best bet though. Computer sound cards or integrated audio just don't work very well for a variety of reasons. Quality and latency being the top reasons.
Like I said this would be your best bet for a beginner.
You can get an interface, mic your own amp too but It doesn't sound like you have that option or equipment. Keep in mind without virtual amp software or plugins a guitar plugged straight into an interface or sound card will sound like crap. To sound decent a guitar needs a amp and a speaker, or something to emulate that.
as someone who records a lot with a macbook, no. you'd at least want one with a flexible cable between the two plugs so you don't put too much load on your jack.. and that wouldn't give you a good recording anyways.
you want something like this or this or even something tiny like this
when spend money when an adaptor would at least get you connected? because you really do need some sort of preamp, and what garageband does is cheat by amping up the signal a lot in software.
this gets you a lot of hiss, noise, and a low quality recording. the SNR is shit.
a couple friends recorded a few serious studio-quality tracks with that bigger line 6 interface. nothing super fancy either gear wise. just guitars/bass, and a cheap mic in a shoe in front of an acoustic. and it sounded great. i've never heard a good recording just with an adaptor in to garage band though. synths, maybe some cheaper mics that don't need phantom power.. but not a guitar.
you also have the advantage of having a mac, on which all of the aforementioned interfaces just work. no drivers, no fucking around. preferences menu and you're ready to go. it might seem like a lot of money for something to which an adaptor is a potential solution, but it's worth it. and these things are cheap used. i got the big audiogram for $100 on craigslist, and i think a friend got his for $50 or so. check pawn shops and stuff too.
That's DOUBLE the US-1800.
The fact that it's a small amount of money is irrelevant.
I personally recommend the Klipsch ProMedia as the best sub-$200 option. Sound is really solid and it's definitely got the bass. Plugging your computer in is straightforward and I believe the newest version has bluetooth as well. Best Buy used to have it as a demo with their computer speakers, not sure if they do anymore.
A better option might be studio monitors like the JBL LSR305/LSR30X which are also an insane deal. You'd need to get a bluetooth adapter and you'd need to worry about inputs (many studio monitors take 1/4" or XLR, which would require janky adapters (probably won't sound great out of a headphhone out without something like this) or a dac/audio interface like this or this. The JBL approach will get you a better sound (more accurate to the music, more balanced sound, magical amazing beautiful and perfect imaging) but will probably be a bit above what you'd like to spend. Most of that stuff can also be bought used if you are okay with that.
I would try and stretch or save up a bit for the monitors. They're a pretty solid step up from most all "computer speakers," and the JBLs in particular are one of the best bang-for-buck deals in audio that I've seen.
Best of luck, and feel free to shoot me a PM with more questions or what you decide to do!
http://www.amazon.com/Peavey-USBP-USB-Audio-Interface/dp/B004A4PSEU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452756416&sr=8-4&keywords=peavey+xlr
First, i would like to preface by saying I pack a peli mostly for local gigs and not touring but from people I've talked to there are definitely similarities in what you would bring. I generally pack different pieces of gear depending on what the gig is but the stuff that stays the same is what follows (In no particular order):
SM58 (For testing or as a spare)
SM57 (not having this is like being a contractor and not bringing a drill)
ProAV2 (Swiss army knife of DIs)
Headphones (I usually pack cans and in ears)
Headphone extension cable
SPL Meter
RF Explorer
Small audio recorder (If you wanna capture mixes or if a client asks for a specific recording of something)
2 short, high-quality xlrs (for testing or to use with the AV2 or USB-P)
Peavey USB-P
Cable tester
Sender/Sniffer
Sharpies
Pens
Board tape
Skin tape/Medical tape (to secure lavs, or the occasional In ear cable)
All the adapters (As many as you can get your hands on, Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it)
Extra AAs (Procells always, just in case)
Various mic clips (Just in case you need a specific one or one breaks)
Flashlight
Headlamp
Precision screwdriver set
Leatherman
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Ipad
Usb power bank
Various cables and adapters for computers and apple products
I'm Probably leaving out alot but thats typically what I take on most shows.
http://www.amazon.com/TC-Electronic-Level-Pilot-Computer-Independent/dp/B001PGMNRG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1394835644&sr=8-5&keywords=studio+monitor+volume+controller
or
http://www.amazon.com/Volume-Controller-Fostex-Pc-1e-White/dp/B0058B1T4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394835744&sr=8-1&keywords=fostex+volume+controller
Both will get the job done. I have the fostex and it works like a charm. it also has a 1/8" audio input so you can just get a cable and plug your phone or ipod in to play on your monitors.
I don't really think there's a clear answer for this, but the good news is that there are many excellent options these days. Sound quality isn't always the most important aspect to consider. Many artists have had great success with just an SM58 microphone hooked up to their computer. If you're just starting up and you don't need studio quality recordings, something like this might be fine. I often just use a basic handheld mic when I'm multitracking a new arrangement for my group to learn. It's quick, simple, and often easier for recording beatboxing with too. There are plenty of free or affordable programs available for multitracking too, so the mic will be your main expense.
If you're looking to make some top quality recordings, you can expect to start spending more as well. Not going to lie - this is where it can get complicated and expensive. I'd recommend starting basic and get a decent condenser mic with a stand and a pop screen, a soundcard or usb mixer with a decent preamp, and stick with the cheaper software for recording.
If you find you're getting more serious with your recordings you may want to upgrade the microphone to a Neumann, install some noise dampening panels, and look into a DAW (digital audio workstation, or recording software) such as Pro Tools.
Whatever you do, don't spend too much on overpriced cables. Check out Monoprice
I use the PreSonus Audiobox 22VSL with a USB 2.0 interface. Basically it's a little box with instrument (or mic cable) inputs and a headphone/speaker output that sits next to your computer. Looks like you can get one for around $200 now.
I can give you a quick review. Sound quality is really good, both for instruments & vocals, and for playback as a headphone amp. I use it mostly for headphone practice, and I often record practice sessions to see just how bad I really sound.
It comes with Studio One Artist, a relatively full-featured sequencer/mixer program that lets you loop drums and edit tracks, apply FX, then mix down for recording. It also includes a number of sound libraries for drums, piano, guitar, plus effects, speaker/amp emulation and all that kind of thing.
Con: if you want to "live-monitor" your mix, in other words listen to yourself playing plus effects loops plus other tracks, then there's a small playback delay. You hit the string and a half second later, you hear the sound. I believe this is due to the USB connection speed, and maybe a firewire or PCI connection would eliminate some of the delay. (It might also be that I don't have my USB 2.0 set up the right way...I'm kind of an idiot.) However there's a knob on the front of the box that lets you mix the preamp and the post-processed playback for your instrument...so you can hear just the preamp (with onboard FX if you use them) with no delay if it weirds you out trying to play in the future, as it were.
Con 2: I haven't been able to get the mic input to work with some software, for example Skype, or Mumble/Teamspeak. If you're an online gamer, this probably won't replace your mic unless you can figure how to make it work. It's a little bit hinky to get your computer OS to recognize the Audiobox as your "sound card" in order to route game and other audio through it, but with some finagling I finally got it to work.
http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-6i6-Interface-Preamps/dp/B00CP4IIJY
http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-2i4-USB-Interface/dp/B009B15N0Q
Thanks for the response, I really appreciate it. Currently I am looking at an I5 with 8 gig ram ssd 500gig + 2 tb 7200rpm drive. Some low end graphics card, do I need to consider sound card at all? What specific audio interface would you recommend for $300 or less? I found this one and seems like it would fit the bill, I am a big fan of Yamaha for value. Again, thank you for your input.
Edit: I found this [focusrite 6i6 card] does it fit the bill? (http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-6i6-Interface-Preamps/dp/B00CP4IIJY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1414220118&sr=8-3&keywords=focusrite+scarlett)
1: That's just a controller. It doesn't have sounds of its own. I would suggest considering something that does have sounds of its own (such as a synthesizer, a piano, or something more like a normal student keyboard like this) so that you aren't tethered to a computer+software any time you want to practice. That said, you can still get by with a controller only and your laptop. Whatever you get, you probably do want Midi so you can use it with your software. (Unless it's a real 88-key piano, which is probably the best for learning IMO). For the "portable keyboards" with midi support, like the one I linked, Yamaha and Casio make some pretty good ones. A little pricier than the one you linked, unfortunately. 32 keys might feel a kind of limiting, but maybe not. You can probably find a 61-key one with MIDI on craigslist pretty cheap. (Yamaha PSR series is pretty good, nice sounds)
2: Learning some music theory is definitely a helpful tool, and that generally means studying an instrument. It's pretty much essential for collaborating with other musicians, since you'll need to speak "the language of music." (Keys, chords, etc.) One thing I've always enjoyed for learning is going to guitar chord sites (like ultimate-guitar.com), looking up some songs I know, and playing the chords on piano. If you don't know how to play a chord, look it up. You'll start noticing patterns (how to play a major chord, minor chord, 7th, maj7, etc). That combined with practicing scales can take you pretty far, and give you some tools to explore when writing songs. /r/musictheory seems to be a good community for resources, too.
3: Piano is so fun. I played other instruments before picking up piano, but learning piano has improved my understanding of other instruments (and theory in general) dramatically. So I think you definitely have the right idea looking at keyboard instruments.
4: If you do get a MIDI controller that doesn't have built-in sounds.. I noticed that the one you linked doesn't have any pitch bend or modulation wheel. I'd consider getting one that does. Pretty handy when working with synths (including the ones in your DAW). Another nice thing to have is pads for banging out drum beats. Much more intuitive than using the keyboard. Neither are essential, but they're fun, and something to consider. M-Audio Axiom series is a good one with both of these features. Oxygen series, too.
5: Interestingly, Keystation 49 II is the same price on Amazon as the Keystation MIni 32 you linked. Out of the two, I would definitely go for the 49. More keys, and real pitch bend+modulation wheels. (The pitch bend buttons on the mini look kind of lame IMO.) Unless the more portable size is just super important to you.
6: If the keyboard you get has traditional (round) MIDI I/O ports but no USB port, then you'll need a MIDI interface for your computer. They're cheap, and you don't need anything fancy. Something like this is fine. You can also get an audio interface that has MIDI built-in. If you go with an audio interface, you should do more research, as a good audio interface (unlike an expensive midi adapter) does make a big difference in the sound that gets recorded. But that's probably farther down the line if right now you're just trying to learn and get better at composition. At that point you'll be looking at good monitor speakers and/or monitor headphones, too.
No hard and fast rules, here. Just a few things to consider.
Who the hell is paying $1000 for a MIDI controller?
Haha, yep that's me! Really into Melee, and I'm studying Audio at OU.
SO there's a whole lot you can do with a $1.5-2k budget. Most of my recommendations are going to focus on microphones, but if you're not trying to do that much recording, you can discard that advice and spend more budget on keys and synthesizers—however, making your own samples and working with them can be pretty cool, fun, and very professional-sounding. I'm speaking from already deep into this rabbit hole, so note my bias. BUT! For that budget you can basically get a near-professional quality mini-studio's worth of gear, if you so choose.
In my opinion, if you're just starting out, Piracy can save you a lot of cash that you can better put towards your gear. If your budget is ~1.5k, I would say pirate Logic Pro if you have a Mac machine, or Ableton/Adobe Audition if you have a Windows machine (PM me if you'd like ;) ). You don't really need all of NI Komplete when you're starting out, especially if you get Logic Pro, because they have a LOT of built in instruments. Also, NI packages can be piratable too. This is all assuming, of course that you're comfortable with pirating software, I understand if you're not, but it can save some cash, and you don't really need a license until you start making real good stuff that you plan on selling/making a business out of.
As far as gear is concerned, if you're serious about recording you might outgrow your Scarlett pretty fast, since it only has 2 mic preamps. You might want to consider a TASCAM 16x08 or a Focusrite Scarlett 18i20. These will let you handle 8 microphones at the same time, which means you can also get a mic kit for your drums. This will get you the absolute best sound out of your drums (provided you learn to use them properly, of course). Learning how to mic drums is a really cool process and there's a lot of room for really making it your own and experimenting with different techniques.
As far as drum mics go, you have cheapest quality at Pyle Pro Mic Kit, Medium Quality at CAD Audio Mic Kit, High Quality at AKG Mic Kit, and professional quality with an Audix DP7 Mic Kit. Even with these, you're still going to want something versatile too.
If you want to also sample some stuff IRL or record other instruments, then get one or two good Dynamic Mics to handle Vocals, Guitar cabs, or wind instruments. You're spot on with the Shure SM57, that thing is a swiss army knife of a microphone and is nearly indestructible. You probably can't go wrong with a matching pair, but you could also go for a SM57 and a Sennheiser e609 to cover all your bases, as the e609 will probably sound better on a guitar cab if you're looking to record guitars.
Okay, now MIDI! The Akai Pro MPK Mini II is a good bet and will definitely do all that you need it to, but if you find yourself needing more keys, there are some good midi controllers out there for just about the same price, for example an M-Audio Controller. It doesn't have as many programmable knobs, but that shouldn't matter unless you're using it to control a software synthesizer, and you need to utilize cutoff, attack, resonance, etc. on the fly. If you're really set on electronic music, then the Akai may be right up your alley, since these knobs will give you more control over your tone.
Aside from that, if you have these tools you can do nearly anything. Check out YouTube tutorials, learn how to use a sampler, learn what the different knobs on a synth do, and get some basic production background and get started! Experimenting in a DAW (Digital Audio Workstation) is really fun, so I think the best thing you can do when you're starting of is mess around and see what you can do. Best of luck, let me know if you have any questions.
This?: https://www.amazon.com/First-Act-Discovery-Portable-Keyboard/dp/B07BLGB6VZ
It is not a midi controller, looks like you would be limited to onboard sounds.
If you are going to be sending midi to a computer, I'd say go with this:
https://www.amazon.com/midiplus-32-Key-Midi-Controller-AKM320/dp/B00VHKMK64/
or this:
https://www.amazon.com/MIDITECH-Controller-i2-32-BT/dp/B078YJ5SX8
​
If 5din midi out is important to you (maybe have sound module or something), spend a little more:
https://www.amazon.com/midiplus-keyboard-controller-49-Key-AK490/dp/B01IND48OY
or
https://www.amazon.com/midiplus-AK490-MIDI-Keyboard-Controller/dp/B00VHKM72Q
All you will need:
Novation Launchkey Mini 25-Note USB Keyboard Controller, MK2 Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VVNOMGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hg4vDbYXEE3NW
Get a Novation Launchkey Mini instead of the MPK Mini.
Comes with Ableton Live Lite (can be used to upgrade to Standard or Suite for cheaper later), 2 nice soft synths (V-Station and Bass Station), a very nice keys instrument (Addictive Keys) and a running promotion that will add even more freebie synths and FX (current freebie is a quirky FM synth, Baervaag).
It is currently cheaper too (and has more pads).
https://www.amazon.com/Novation-Launchkey-25-Note-Keyboard-Controller/dp/B00VVNOMGI/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1541563691&sr=1-3&keywords=novation+launchkey+mini
https://novationmusic.com/sound-collective
So you get the MIDI controller, the intro DAW and several virtual instruments all at once.
The stuff that comes with MPK Mini: SONiVOX Wobble is near worthless, Hybrid 3 gets sold for $1 or given away for free regularly, and Akai Pro MPC Essentials is not useful if you get FL or Live (or any DAW).
as the above guys said the usb audio interface you gonna have couple advantages, basically if you ever planing to upgrade into studio speakers or so, you already gonna be having audio interface, and for studio speakers audio interface its must have thing otherwise you losing more than half of the speakers quality , same goes for microphones, if you ever consider buying some microphone and it has XLR connection, or even 3.5mm jack, you can buy adapter to get XLR or so , and even for some £20 microphone you gonna have pretty clear and more than enough quality for skype talks or so , and it would be many times better than directly plugging into your motherboard or front 3.5m socket. / and the last one its what you need the Headphones quality, usally if you buy headphones for few hundread bucks or so, and you using 3.5mm jack to plug into your motherboard, you losing more than 50% of your audio quality , So with some certain interface you can get the full of your headphones/speakers/mics etc. So for audio interfaces you can go for https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-PHORIA-UM2-BEHRINGER/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484581921&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+audio+interface that would be the most basic and it would do the job more than enough. The 2 more choices is either M audio or Scarlete , m audio : https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-M-Track-2X2-Interface-24-bit/dp/B01FFH5XMC/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1484581921&sr=8-21&keywords=usb+audio+interface thats also one of their newest audio interfaces , and it has pretty good design doesnt it ? :P The other one https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484581921&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+audio+interface , its literally up to you which one you prefer, you can go for more basic option if you not planing to get some expensive pair of speakers or so , if you thinking that you might get some KRK studio monitors or so you can pick one of them 2 £100 worth audio interfaces , the quality between m audio and focusrite wont be noticeable . But to mention again if you literally need it only for those headphones and you not planing to get anything in future just go for the 50 usd audio interface and you will be more than happy :) ( sorry for not fluent english hopefully you can understand )
dont get a card, get an interface!
https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-M-Track-2X2-Interface-24-bit/dp/B01FFH5XMC
you can do a lot more with this. do music with it, take it with you and use your laptop with it for music or recording anything really. just more options for just a few bucks.
I haven't used a sound card since probably around 2002, lol.
I'll second this. I have the AD18 on a pair of Kef R300s and it's working well. They get louder than I can handle.
I've seen the SMSL SA50 recommended as well for smaller systems, but it has fewer input options (e.g. no USB input) and fewer features overall.
The JBL305s would be an alternative, as they have their own integrated amp. You just need to connect them to your PC, and get an optional kit like this one that comes with cables, a volume controller (pre-amp) and some foam isolation pads.
It looks like he’s using an
Akai MPK Mini Mark 2
Yeah, you're not wrong.. but it's fun to mess around with... this is the one I got...
his turntable has a built in preamp (which he is currently running to the speakers) so he can easily add a passive preamp between the two without the need for a phono stage, the sys is an option, but something like the Mackie Big Knob or JBL Nano Patch is designed for studio monitors. i'd probably grab the Mackie Big Knob just because it has 2 inpuits/2 outputs
pretty much all you need is the mackie big knob, a set of TRS cables to go from the big knob to the monitors, and a set of TRS to RCA cables to go to the turntables preamp, optionally add a second set of TRS to RCA cables to connect to another source (or TRS to 3.5mm to connect to a computer/phone/etc)
You don't need another DAC if you already have one in the Fiio, but AFAIK, the analog line out of the Fiio is fixed, not variable.
My suggestion would be to add a monitor controller after the Fiio and before the monitors. This will allow volume to be controlled as well as switching inputs (depending on model). Most have dual outputs which allow a second set of monitors, or you could run the second set to a sub - and have it switchable on the controller.
WIRING:
3.5mm TRS stereo male to dual RCA or 6.3mm (1.4") TS males, depending on controller used
Then simple 1/4" TS to 1/4" TS for passive controllers to the JBL monitors, (or you can use dual 1/4" TRS on the active controllers)
-
PASSIVES (with 2 switchable inputs)
-
PASSIVE VOLUME / ACTIVE SWITCHING & HEADPHONE AMP:
-
ACTIVE PRE-AMP (with USB interfaces - your Fiio USB connection will be better, however).
To send/receive MIDI you need MIDI to USB interface.
To receive audio signal you need dual 1/4 TS cable to 1/8” TRS cable.
Option1: Money is not an issue:
OP you’re best bet would be a audio interface as it allows you to connect your keyboard plus so much more.
Something like this:
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Scarlet2i4G2--focusrite-scarlett-2i4-usb-audio-interface
And midi cables and TS cables
Option 2: Money is an issue/not ready to for a audio interface:
MIDI to USB built into MIDI cable:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719V8MX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UBGmDbDYWDC3D
1/4 TS to 1/8 TRS:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XCGmDbF1750Q2
Rock band keytar I believe. $30 or less.
You could get his Akai running with about a $65 extra investment in a raspberry pi and a cable like this.
Edit: any old keyboard with midi out would be a cheap solution as well
Mutant Brain takes in MIDI, spits out 12 gates and 4 variable CVs (i.e. MIDI note pitch). The gate outputs can be clock/clock multiplications or MIDI note gates. They have a webpage to generate the SysEx files to configure the module. It works great, and functions as my main control connection between DAW and modular.
It takes 5-pin MIDI input, but a MIDI-to-USB adapter is cheap and will be less noisy than using USB directly into a module. I use a MOTU micro lite as my MIDI interface, but have used those cheap USB-MIDI cables prior to that, for many, many years.
Hello guys, I'm looking to acquire a new pair of headphones, I've been eyeing Beyerdynamic DT 770s, Senn HD598 and AKG K701/702 but the problem is I cannot afford to buy a soundcard alongside the headphones, so I have a few questions :
I'd want cans that I can use for both gaming and music (although music is more important at the moment as I primarily play CS:GO and the sound engine on this game is pretty awful anyway)
I hope I don't sound too stupid with those questions, I know very little about this subject
I use this and I like it. It's pretty cheap and comes with its own software for amp simulation, pedals, etc. I'm not sure how it handles bass though, but it might be worth checking out.
This is what I use and it works great. It comes with a limited amp modeling software. You can get the sound from your computer's sound card, or you can plug in speakers/headphones directly into the interface. I hope this is helpful.
If you want to get into recording your drums, you need to forget audacity. If you don't have the money to spend on a DAW (Digital Audio Workstation, think ProTools, Sonar, et al), check out Reaper which is open source. PreSonus has Studio One Prime which is free as well.
Then you'll want to get a beginner friendly interface that you can connect to your computer via FireWire like this 8 channel Focusrite.
The goal should be to plug each mic independently into your DAW rather than mixing it down from a mixer, then into RCA, etc. and into your computer. If you track a song, then realize you didn't have the snare as hot as you like, then you're screwed and you need to track it all again because you mixed it all prior to recording - so don't do that.
Once you have that set up, then you can spend time learning proper mic placement, EQ'ing each drum appropriately, compression, and all the rest of the goodies when recording drums.
What you're doing now is fine if you are just messing around, but if you want to head in the direction of getting good recordings of drums as you stated above, you'll need to invest a little bit more money and time.
Time for a new interface!
Looking for:
I know most of these interfaces are $500-600 (focusrite saffire pro 40, 18i20, etc.) but I'd like to stay under that if possible. Even if it means going used.
This Tascam is tempting, but I have a feeling it's garbage, and it's missing things I want like ADAT in/out. Bet the pre's are junk. But it's only $280! lol
http://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-US-1800-4-out-Audio-Interface/dp/B0044FU6T2
I am very tempted by these used/returned units on ebay. Can anyone speak to the resilience of this model? I don't mind buying used as long as there are not a ton of known issues, which Google hasn't shown there is with the 18i20.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141332841271?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
This package is also interesting, but MXL stuff is hit or miss. Thoughts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171308000178?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Thanks!
It looks like it's gotten good reviews. I'm personally partial to FireWire, but if this thing dropped into my lap, I'd definitely use it.
http://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-US-1800-4-out-Audio-Interface/dp/B0044FU6T2
What about this to replace the Focusrite & the Alesis?
http://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-US-1800-4-out-Audio-Interface/dp/B0044FU6T2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1383145363&sr=8-5&keywords=Tascam+Audio+Interface
And we do plan on getting 4 microphones for the drums, I forgot what the recording method is but it's the method Led Zeppelin used. Basically, 1 mic on the kick, 1 directly on the snare, and 2 overhead mics pointing at the snare and equidistant from it.
This model has been discontinued; the newer model is $275 new FYI
http://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-US-1800-4-out-Audio-Interface/dp/B0044FU6T2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1348607110&sr=8-2&keywords=Tascam+US-1641
I guess it depends on how much money you have. I got the Tascam US-1800 with 16-in, and it's mainly for convenience. I rarely use more than 1 or 2 at a time, I just leave everything plugged in all the time. FWIW, it seems to work well enough.
I'll be honest man, I've never had anything but passable (at best) to terrible sound from 1/8" outputs to a PA system. In the industrial band I play with, we had keyboards running off a portable PC and then a track from another PC and it was a damn nightmare of buzz and hiss until I started stepping in on some technical issues.
My advice, ditch the on board audio completely and Use one of these instead
Windows should detect it without additional drives, just make sure to set it as your audio output device then run 2 XLR cables to your mixer. You're never going to believe how much this can clean up your sound vs using the 1/8" cable.
There are other interfaces you can use but most of those are more aimed at recording. This does one thing and one thing only and is super simple, its been perfectly reliable for about 3 years. Sometimes there is something to be said for a device that just does one thing.
Ok, so there's two ways to 'balance' and audio signal. The more common one, found in XLR and TRS connections is the Differential signaling method.
Basically it uses three wires, one ground and two signal wires. One of those signal wires is the direct analog signal, the other wire is the negated signal.
This means that for mono, you need three wires:
|ground, signal+ and signal-
For stereo you need at least 5 (6 if separate grounds) wires:
|ground, right+, right-, (optional ground), left+, left-.
As you can see, none of the cables you linked have 5 or 6 wires at one end so none are stereo balanced. You are simply getting stereo unbalanced and therefore noise/interference.
So to answer your first question: they're exactly the same and their just spouting marketing crap.
To answer your second question: the TRS to XLR cables won't convert the signal into a balanced one. They're effectively the exact same as the other two cables. The only benefit of that cable is that it's shielded which may reduce noise the cables picks up.
I recommend:
Get a Peavey USB-P. I've had great experience with them.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004A4PSEU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421820786&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=41LgUCUeGhL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
You can use something like this 3.5mm to 1/4" cable to connect them directly to a PC.
If you want a physical volume control you can use a Fostex PC1e and these RCA to 1/4 cables instead.
If you want to spend $100 and need a headphone amp then the Schiit Fulla 2 has a volume knob and a headphone amp built in.
I think it's the disproportionate amount your willing to spend on relatively unimportant parts of your systems. You have $150 speakers, but are willing to spend $600 on a preamp for volume control, and another $600 on a DAC. You have $200 headphones and want to power them with $600 in amplification. None of those make any sense.
Get an ODAC ($99) and an passive volume controller like this ($33), or get the Schiit Loki which does both ($149). Now with the $1650 of your budget you have remaining, buy nicer headphones like the HiFi Man HE-500 ($599) and an amp to power them, like the Schiit Valhalla ($349). Pocket the remaining $700 or spend it on nicer speakers as well.
The actual speakers and headphones are the single most important part of any system. Spend your money on them.
You can use one of these and 2 RCA cables, but you'll have to control volume on the PC. If you want inline volume control you can use something like this or this.
Performance-wise, all-in-one speakers are a fine way to go. When done right (and I have zero doubts KEF does it right) you get amps matched precisely to the drivers and no fuss. And things stay nice and minimalist.
Price-wise, I have some questions about the value proposition.
> lack of subwoofer connection option.
Annoying, though you can work around it if you use the analog connection and have a volume control upstream.
(source) --> (volume control like the Schiit SYS, Emotiva Control Freak, or oooh! I found a white one for you!) --> RCA splitter --> (subwoofer and KEFs)
> what would you guys recommend
I have not personally heard any of these. But...
I personally would not care if the speakers had integrated wireless stuff. I would vastly prefer to simply feed them audio through a Chromecast or Apple Airport Express. The latter can be had for like $20 on eBay and offers full lossless streaming.
I'd say save a bit of money from the nanopatch+ and just pick up this fostex knob.
The DAC portion of the E10K is perfectly fine for pretty much any setup you can buy. Modern Dacs are the strongest part of the playback chain by far, with amps coming in second. The only question is does the E10K pump out a strong enough signal to be able to saturate the amps in the sub and speakers. I'm not sure about that part, but I would suspect it's fine, you might just need to run the amps at a bit of a higher gain than you would from something like a Lexicon Alpha for example. Yeah, also consider the Lexicon Alpha. It's a USB DAC that offers a pretty high-gain balanced pre-amp volume control for under $50.
The "noise" caused by unbalanced signals shouldn't be a problem. It's used in studio environments for long cable runs and the fact that there is tons of equipment so keeping noise down is really important. The significant part you need to worry about is the gain structure. Gear made to receive balanced inputs normally wants a "hotter" signal since line level unbalanced is normally a weaker signal in consumer gear.
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-NPATCH-BLK-Compact-Controller/dp/B01I3B0OH6/
or
https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Fostex-Pc-1e-White/dp/B0058B1T4M/
A chromecast audio is all you need for spotify.
Those are pretty good. To power them you'd need an amplifier, but for hip-hop, I'm sure some day you'll want to add a subwoofer, which would kinda force you to get a multichannel amp now (stereo amplifiers aren't able to divide the frequencies correctly between sub and speakers) and a beefy multichannel amp is going to cost you $400: if that's within your budget, then go for it. It's certainly the most convenient solution because an AV receiver allows you to connect anything you might get in the future: consoles, bluray players, chromecast video, turntable (for that you'll need a phono preamp though).
Otherwise I would recommend you something entirely different: 2x JBL LSR308s or Emotiva Airmotiv 6s: they go deeper than those B&Ws with a still great sound quality; and they're powered speakers, which means each has built in amplifiers, requiring no additional gear other than a volume controller for convenience. You would hook up the chromecast to the volume controller with the bundled 3.5mm cable and then run a pair of RCA to 6.3mm TS cables to the speakers, one for each. Done.
For the turntable, you'll eventually get a phono preamp with a switch and multiple inputs like this (but if I were you, I'd stick to digital music unless you inherit a collection).
With these a subwoofer would be less important (because again, they go deeper by themselves), but I'm sure you'd add one eventually: in that case you'd just have to make sure that the sub has high-pass filtered outputs (SVS subs do, for example, and they're good - a high pass filter ensures that the main speakers aren't goint to reproduce the same frequencies of the sub, improving their performance and eliminating the unwanted overlap) so that you could add it to the chain with ease (between volume controller and speakers).
Hook it up to an old PC (or new one). For the old, grab an old sound blaster (16 or above), get a midi port adapter and go wild! The MPU cards are ideal but are pretty hard to come by, or just damn pricey, even my clone card was around $70 or so, but if you happen to have one of those even better!
You could also hook it up to a new PC using a https://www.amazon.com/Roland-UM-ONE-MK2-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00967UN50 and run games through it using dosbox. I have my SC-55 connected that way actually, Duke Nukem sounds great on it.
edit Third option sell it to a retro collector you can get an alright amount for them, nothing near what they originally sold for but not bad for a 30 year old device either.
This is a completely silence optimized gaming / recording rig. I assume you want your computer to be as quiet as possible while recording music.
The Focusrite Scarlet 6i6 is one of the best Audio recording devices within your budget. You really should invest in an external recording sound card if you are serious about music creation (which I assume you are since your are studying it).
As a gaming PC it is also very good. You will be able to play most games at high to max settings @ 1080p/60FPS.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $209.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-U12P SE2 54.4 CFM CPU Cooler | $62.98 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock Fatal1ty Z87 Killer ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $99.99 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL EVO POTENZA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $62.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $139.99 @ Best Buy
Storage | Seagate Barracuda Green 2TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive | $82.45 @ Amazon
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card | $309.99 @ NCIX US
Case | NZXT H230 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Micro Center
Power Supply | Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 10 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $109.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Noctua NF-P12-1300 54.4 CFM 120mm Fan | $17.92 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Noctua NF-P12-1300 54.4 CFM 120mm Fan | $17.92 @ OutletPC
Other| Focusrite Scarlet 6i6| $249.35
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $1423.55
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-09 23:17 EDT-0400 |
If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to ask.
Well start at the beginning. People notice high quality recordings. If you listen to your Pod on headphones, crappy mics then get compressed to crappy MP3s is tedious to listen to.
If there are 2 or you, plan on spending a couple hundred bucks to solve this.
I use Sterling ST-51 Condenser mics- You can generally get them on sale at Guitar Center for $70 bucks. Here is a link to amazon
After you get that you'll need two XLR cables
After that you'll need some sort if interface. I have never had more than four people on my podcast, but the nature of podcasting generally means you'll get good a production, go as big as you can early, someone somewhere will want to pay you to produce for them. It's better to have the flexibility out of the box then have to cluge around with shitty hardware. However if you're on a tight budget there are other things you can get. Audio to computer interfaces give you more flexibility because you can add things like music live during a recording from other devices, allow you to use Skype (which isn't obvious when you have high quality mics and interfaces) I trend toward Focusrite, they make Bad Ass equipment. The Scarlett series works well for me. They don't have a loop back feature, but if you get that far let me know and ill tell you how to do it for the cost of a $1 RCA cable.
You can get linear PCM recorders Here and Here for about the same money as an audio interface, so its your call. They put it all in one package, but in the long run I think you'll end up getting tired of moving large files to your software for editing. I use the Tascam DR-40 and give it to people who are traveling - it is STELLAR and less than anything else on the market, because its old. But it's record out of the box- Easy.
Now Software- Ive used pay versions of Cakewalk. Ive used Audacity, which is great but clunky. I have landed on Reaper. It is the most full featured, open, continually updated, solid, go to, piece of software you can find. They're not dumb, they let you download a fully functioning copy for free. Its Not hampered in anyway. If you don't buy a license then you have to sit through a click away every time it opens. Better yet, just try it for a while, then you will appreciate it and want to buy the $60 license for small business or home use. Brilliant in every way.
That set up will last you for years and give you virtually pro quality production capability.
TL;DR
Mics (and Cables) Sterling ST-51 or similar (less than $100 ea)
Audio interface ( Many in, Many out, USB 2, Focusrite or Tascam)
Software (There can only be one, Reaper, Hands down)
Edit: My pods are at Defensesecurity.org , Homeready.org and Renman24.com - if you listen to the first ones and then listen to the latest ones you'll notice my equipment improvement, and editing style change. Its a muscle, work it out and it'll get better.
Edit 2: spelling and links
Edit 3: Links again
For what it's worth, you could record two people on one end using Zencastr but they would both be on the same track which isn't ideal. You could do this by having them share a microphone or by plugging 2 mics into into your interface (it should get mixed to to a mono track for recording purposes).
As you mentioned, the difficult part is making sure everyone can hear. There are interfaces that have 2 headphone monitor jacks. This one looks like it would do the trick.
http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-6i6-Interface-Preamps/dp/B00CP4IIJY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1458211811&sr=8-5&keywords=focusrite+interface
Using this you could have them both recorded on using separate mics (but on the same track) and they would both be able to hear the other callers as well. They would the callers on the other end via zencastr and hear each other by monitoring the input to the interface.
You could record the output from the interface into your zoom.
Another option would be to have them use zencastr normally on separate computers even though they are in the same place. You would have to watch out that they weren't picking up each others voices on their respective mics.
EDIT: A lot of this depends on what gear you have or are willing to buy. If you want to do a call I can hear what your setup is and maybe offer some more pertinent advice. Ping me anytime on Skype (username: somethingcoded).
1-Definitely worth it with headphones.
2-No idea.
3-Never used one, but it seems like it'll be just fine. Is there a reason you went with it over others? Seems like it's ~$70 on Amazon while there are others for a bit less for more keys, and others with some more functions. I found one of these last year on craigslist for $50 and it's what I've been using ever since. If you've already bought it, I'm sure it'll be absolutely fine for whatever you want to do though, so no need to sweat it.
I've been using a Keystation Mini for quite a while now. You get used to the smaller keys and it's great for someone just starting out.
https://www.amazon.com/d/5n2/M-Audio-Keystation-Mini-32-Keyboard-Synth-Action-Velocity-Sensitive/B00IWRJSE2
Alright, so the reason you shouldn't buy it is because the drum pads aren't remappable and the default mapping is really odd.
That means that you can't play all the drum samples unless you remap the samples to the notes that the pads play.
It also removes one of the biggest benefits of drum pads over regular keys, which is the layout. Since the mapping is all fucked up, pad nr. 5 in this pic won't play off the sample !Snare 15 in this pic.
Not only that, but the pads are riggid as hell. You can't just groove out, because you need quite a bit of force to push them down.
The rest of the keyboard is alright though. The keys are synth action (light to the touch) and feel pretty good to play on. The keyboard looks great too.
I'd still recommend going for a Nektar Impact or an M-Audio Keystation (semi weighted) instead.
I have the M-Audio Keystation 61 and Korg PadKontrol. It looks like the M-Audio 49 key might not be semi-weighted but the M-Audio 61 key that I have is semi-weighted. The benefit of having a separate device for pads is that the pads have the potential to be better quality. The Korg PadKontrol is known to have really good sensitive pads so that they register even if you touch them lightly. Other devices may have pads that require you to push down on them with more force before they register. Having more pads is nice just so that you have access to more samples at once. I'm also glad I went with 61 keys because it's just nicer to have quick access to as many keys possible too. I also use Ableton Live 9.
i've got the m-audio 61 semi-weighted controller. it feels amazing and i think 61 keys is the perfect balance of size and playability. i really couldn't have fun using anything smaller, i'd feel cramped and would get bored quickly. i'd have to learn how to play the octave switch in addition to the chords i'm playing..
it's not slim keys, but it's a bit smaller than 73 slim keys would be..
https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Keystation-61-II-Controller/dp/B00IWX2SR0/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1500057997&sr=1-1&keywords=M-Audio+Keystation+61
Thanks. I found a used Alesis QX61 for ~$120. You think that's the best bang for my buck that I can get?
EDIT: Also found this. A bit more expensive, but seems higher quality and has semi-weighted keys, and it's only $50 more than the above for new. Doesn't have any/many MIDI knobs, but that's not too important. Also only $10 more for an 88 key version, which seems like but space would be a bit tight. Do you think that's worth it?
Here is the mobile version of your link
A good entry level interface is this tascam, and I have seen them cheaper than this.. https://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-US-16x08-USB-Audio-Interface/dp/B00MIXF200
Can't speak to that one, but The Tascam interfaces will do what you're asking.
Using this interface, I can mike up a whole drum kit, plus guitar, plus bass, synth, and piano through the line-in jacks, and record my whole band at once. Each input comes into the DAW as a separate track with a separate WAV. I'm about to finish up an album using the linked model's predecessor. We'll record a whole song at once, and then go back and run overdubs.
I highly suggest you grab a full size keyboard
Like something cheap
or something expensive
that you can use both hands on. Trust me, I started on piano, and it helped me a whole lot when I was starting out to just write stuff and record it in and fix it later.
The Arturia Minilab Mk2 isn't bad, but I think the Launchkey Mini Mk2 is better. I've found I don't use the knobs as often as I'd thought, the extra pads are a more than welcome exchange for it. Plus, it has easy-to-install drivers, works with most DAWs, and great feel on the keys for the price, too.
Make sure you get what works for your workflow. If more knobs are better, then go for that. If having more pads readily available without having to press any buttons is better, go for the Launchkey.
Another option is the Akai MPK Mini Mk2 but I've heard it can be really wonky with certain software.
> Novation Launchkey MK2 25-Key Controller
that is the full sized key, 25 count midi keyboard which comes with ableton. you can also buy the Mini key (shorter keys, feels cheaper)
[https://www.amazon.com/Novation-Launchkey-Keyboard-Controller-Ableton/dp/B00VVNOMGI?th=1](Launchkey Mini)
for $80, and it also comes with ableton live lite. I would say if price is any factor, you shodul go cheap and buy the Launchkey Mini, it comes with all the software you need, it's compact for a smaller workspace (eventually you'll learn that you need to rebuild your computer station in a Studio... which is fun!)
That has a single XLR input, and onboard effects. Doesn't seem very flexible to me. For the price, I'm not at all interested.
Unless you are specifically wanting an 'all in one' outboard solution like that, which requires quite a bit of compromise in terms of price, flexibility, and usually quality... I personally would rather go with a modular solution and software effects, as that would remove all limitations and be more easily upgraded at a later date... Not to mention it would be cheaper.
Free effects are abundant on Linux. A nice all-inclusive option would be something like Guitarix. It's a full suite of 'guitar' effects (which would work fine for vocals as well.)
You'll need the following hardware (examples included:)
So if you went with the Scarlett Solo + Akai MidiMix, you'd have more flexibility, better preamps, and more easily portable setup for less than half the price.
With the Behringer options listed above, it would be 1/4 the price, again with all the benefits I listed.
FYI, the example products in this comment are just that: examples. There are dozens of other options available.
I'm looking to get a MIDI controller to use it for editing in Lightroom, after researching for an hour I think the Behringer X-Mini Midi controller. It's affordable and offers a fair amount of knobs/buttons. However I'm afraid that it might not be enough. The 16 knobs (8 with 2 layouts) seem fair, but I think I could use more than 16 buttons. Does anyone know a similar controller (in size and price) with some more normal buttons?
If not, I'll just order this one, but I just want to make sure there isn't a better alternative I might have missed.
Behringer Xtouch - sorry I didn't mention it earlier!
Link is here.
There's also a slightly smaller one and an even smaller one, which might be perfect for your needs. They're $599, $399 and $59 each.
They already make several products like that:
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XTOUCHMINI-BEHRINGER-X-TOUCH-MINI/dp/B013JLZCLS
Honestly most are, you can even buy a controller that was made to be used for audio, and program it for lightroom.
This is a pretty good one, but there are a lot of others that will be also good.
It's on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-X-TOUCH-MINI-BEHRINGER/dp/B013JLZCLS, at least in US. $49.
And see the youtube link I put my other comment here for a video showing it in use.
For live sound, you'll need some sort of USB audio interface, one of these, that have some sort of monitor out. This will act as a digital to analog converter from your laptop to the house PA for the highest quality audio. It will also give you an input to either DI your guitar, or mic it or a speaker cabinet. You'll also want something to trigger your loops and and adjust things on the Ableton side, but I'd have to know a little more about what you are looking for on that end.
You're looking for a USB DAC (Digital-to-Analogue Converter), also called an external soundcard, or some combination of those.
Ones that are a desktop "box" rather than a large dongle tend to be more expensive, however here's one from Asus that a quick Amazon search turned up. Creative is also a name worth looking out for, there's this one and this smaller one There are also higher end ones more suitable if you're doing music or video production, which have high-quality inputs for microphones and instruments.
Don't worry if you find ones that take a 6.25mm (1/4") headphone cable as you can get converters easily. You can certainly get more expensive.
Edit: The Razer box probably does some simulated surround sound processing, I believe the Asus and Creative products should have simulated surround sound (and probably do a better job of it) in addition to enough speaker outputs to have true surround sound. Simulated surround isn't for everyone, and can be turned off.
Worth mentioning is the Sennheiser GSX 1000, which got a great review from HardwareCanucks, especially the simulated surround sound. Very expensive though.
TL;DR
It's a type of USB Soundcard, the Razer one has the wires fixed in. Only some of them are boxes with volume controls on them, so shop around.
Your best option will be to get an audio interface. That will let you use XLR microphones and still connect over USB or thunderbolt. They can be a bit pricey, but there are still some decent budget options out there like this one. If you go this route with the Neewer you'll also need to pick up an XLR-to-XLR cable to hook it up, since the Neewer comes with an XLR-to-3.5mm cable instead.
So to summarize, your setup will be Neewer to audio interface to MacBook Pro. Since the audio interface provides phantom power you won't need a separate box for that.
Yea, I don't have it yet but plan on buying this [active speaker kit](JBL ACTPACK Active Studio Monitor Enhancement Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1DGYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AurUAbTBTTHKG)
Its a pain to reach behind to adjust the volume on each speaker but you don't do it as often as you'd think. This is more to encourage the wife to use the system easier.
Unless you don't think the cable is going to reach you should be able to plug the turntable straight into the switch I believe.
I used these [ cables ] (Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JyrUAbKADDQYB) to connect the switch output to each of the speakers
And you would need [this cable](AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8ArUAbK3ZZJAT) for the Chromecast.
I started out with this little guy : Akai Mini MPK2.
Keys are pretty decent and it's straight forward to setup. Pads are okie dokie, little tweaks you can do to stop them from double hitting accidentally. If that's too small I'd go with the Alesis v49
It's great that you want to support your son, but think how much you'd be spending on things like sports or other hobbies he could have. Yeah music is expensive, but the great thing about gear is that it can be resold without losing too much of its value. If he seems serious then I think spending the extra money would be worth it. I'd get him something like this if he has a computer to plug it into that you can download some software on. Worst case you return it to Amazon if he gives up that quick, or sell it on ebay for $75. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M13A6JT/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER.
How good does this look though? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M13A6JT/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481801755&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=akai+mpk+mini&dpPl=1&dpID=51i91reNmNL&ref=plSrch
Well, that brings up a factor I would have told you about if I had been in communication with you in advance. The Optical Out does NOT respond to the TV Volume Control. It is that way on all TVs. That is because there is no volume to control, it is a series of numbers until it pass through the DAC at which time it become voltages.
So, you do need some type of volume control. Were I previously been advising you, I would have recommended some Edifier Speakers that do have their own Volume Controls (remote control).
https://www.edifier.com/us/en/shop?product_type=Speakers&features_group=[[%22bookshelf%20speakers%22]]
Sometime the square brackets can mess up Links, so simply go to Edifier.com and select Products, then select Bookshelf Speakers.
The Mackie Big Knob (passive) will give you a manual volume control, but not a remote control.
https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Controller-2x2-KNOB-Passive/dp/B01NCUZ32O/
What you really need is an Amp with Pre-Amp out, or a Pre-Amp either with a Remote Control. That's not going to be free, but if you search out used equipment, it would be reasonably priced.
But yes, you need some way, external to the TV, to control the volume.
Sorry about that. Any chance you can come up with some cash to create a better system?
If you have a budget but it is limited consider something like this -
https://www.edifier.com/us/en/speakers/r1280db-bluetooth-bookshelf-speakers-built-in-amplifier-coaxial-optical
If you can wrangle up some serious money, then consider this -
https://www.edifier.com/us/en/speakers/s350db-bookshelf-speakers-subwoofer
EDITED: Actually I searched Amazon for "DAC with Remote Control" and these two DACs came up, both roughly $20 -
https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Converter-Digital-Coaxial-Adjustment/dp/B07G6YXSHD/
https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Digital-Converter-Support-Control/dp/B07BKX8BV7/
If you want to salvage what you already have, these DACs could be a workable solution at a modest price.
Let me know what you think.
For studio monitors, a studio monitor controller.
Or a mixer.
Or a passive volume controller with RCA.
Do you have the ground wire connected from the turntable to the phono stage/preamp? Are you mixing unbalanced and balanced connections?
yeah, a DJ mixer.
You can find them used for cheap at yard sales and craigslist. The preamps may even be better than the built in AT one.
Barring that, use the line out and simply get a mini desk mixer from Mackie like the Mackie Mix5:
...or a passive controller like the Big Knob Passive:
The simplest way is to get a passive volume control, like this one, or a higher end one, like the mackie big knob passive. I have that one and like it a lot.
A better way is a dac/amp combo like the fiio k3, schiit fulla 2, etc.
You plug the speakers into the dac output using the correct cable, set the physical volume on your speakers (I usually go around 75%) and use the volume knob on the dac/amp to adjust while listening. And being that you're using the dac instead of onboard sound, you'll probably get less noise and interference.
Sure.
​
Get a USB MIDI interface, something like this.
​
This shows how the MIDI clock from the Xone:92 works.
​
You'll need to then assign the software you are using to listen to the incoming MIDI clock from the Xone:92 and you should be good to go.
That interface has lots of extra stuff, but not the required DIN ports.
You need a simple MIDI to USB interface adapter, like this (cheaper) or this (cumbersome, but much more reliable).
That might work out better than what you have, but if you really want quality audio, you need to invest a little more into it. Getting a proper condensor mic like the Audio Technical AT2020 here would be a great place to start. You would then probably need an audio interface to connect it to like this or a mixer like this. Do your research and a lot of it. There are a lot of good options out there to improve your audio quality, but all options involve investing a descent amount of money as hard as that is to hear. Research, find what you really want no matter the price, and save, save, save until you have it.
You certainly can go cheaper than that. You’re just plugging in a mic/guitar/headphones yeah? If so you can use pretty much any USB interface with 2 inputs. Should be around $100
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07664LMPQ/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074F2V6VJ/?th=1&psc=1
That’s your best option, the cheapest option would be to continue using your Yamaha mixer, and to connect the LINE OUT from the mixer to your computer using a cheap USB converter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI/
Are you playing with other people?
I personally would get this or one of the higher models if you are just practicing/jamming in your room.
If you are planning on playing with others get something like this or similar for effects and you don't have to chain pedals. When looking at Multi Effects processors I personally tried to skip amp modeling as a feature.
And lastly, I will sell you a 100 watt tube combo amp for 300€ lmao.
If you need something longer term and on the cheap, I cannot actually recommend this enough:
https://www.amazon.com/Line-6-POD-Studio-GX/dp/B001EHWD0I/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1494008904&sr=1-1&keywords=pod+studio+gx
I have the older version of this (called a TonePort GX) but it looks like it's just a rebranding. It has some dope software with pretty decent amp sims in it (I've gotten real used to it over the last decade I've used mine so I have some great sounds that work for what I want). It's basically a low-end interface designed specifically around guitar. I wouldn't necessarily pay $100 for one (for $75 it'd be killer, which is what I paid for for mine) but if you need something to record just guitars long-term and want some good amp sims, I definitely recommend it.
Years ago I bought a Line6 toneport Gx for not even €90 which came with some amp-sim software called Podfarm. Then I just used the free program Audacity to record the tracks. It was a cheap and good enough way to make quick demo's especially since you can record multi track in Audacity.
Since then I've stepped over to Reaper + Bias FX and its been a real treat. The Toneport acts like any other USB guitar interface so it works with non-line6 software. And Bias has many people amp-matching their real amps and putting them on the cloud for anyone to use.
IMHO Amp Sims get a lot of unfounded hate around here. I've tried Amplitube, Guitar Rig & Pod Farm and you can get good sounds out of all of them. No, it's not the same as having the real deal but it's very, very close. Your bang for the buck when using sims is phenomenal. Also, the ability to save tones and get back EXACTLY where you were before shouldn't be dismissed. On the cheap, you could go with the basic Line 6 interface that comes with Pod Farm. Should run you about $100. http://www.amazon.com/Line-6-POD-Studio-GX/dp/B001EHWD0I/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1380894482&sr=1-4&keywords=line+6
EDIT: Also, Reaper.
This is probably a question for /r/WeAreTheMusicMakers - They're usually pretty great for answering music production questions :)
That said, Logic, Reason or Pro Tools are your 'staple' DAWs - They are all equally powerful (for your intents and purposes), and Logic is the cheapest, so Logic is a good idea. You're also going to need a USB Audio Interface (I recommend the Scarlett 2i2 for small projects, or the Saffire Pro 40 if you plan on micing a drum kit) to get signal from mics/guitars into the computer. Look into getting some cheap-ish mics (AT2020 for acoustic guitar/vocals/overheads, and the SM57 and SM58 for whatever else, at least for starters).
There are oodles of great Youtube tutorials that will teach you how to use Logic, and eventually you'll want to invest in studio headphones and studio monitors (unless you already have them), which are built specifically to give you an objective sound to accurately mix.
I'm not an expert producer, but I do freelance stuff locally out of my home studio - My work for reference
Feel free to PM with questions, and you should definitely post in /r/WeAreTheMusicMakers! They'll probably have better answers than me, but I hope this helps.
I'm going to be picking up an interface for the first time, and I'm pretty unsure where to start. After doing some research I narrowed my picks down to the Presonus FireStudio Project, the Tascam US-2000, and the Focusrite Saffire Pro 40.
I'm only really looking for 8 inputs. My computer is firewire capable, and my budget is pretty much up to 500 dollars. I'm willing to listen to other suggestions for interfaces.
The SP40 seems to get really great reviews on it's pre's, which I'd be using as opposed to external ones. I really like how the FireStudio project has all it's inputs on front, which is just generally more convenient. All that said, the price of the Tascam US-1800 or 2000 really can't be beat for the number of inputs.
Honestly, any guidance or opinions would be really appreciated.
Links
Tascam US-2000
Focusrite Saffire Pro 40
PreSonus FireStudio Project
You'll need an interface to connect the mics to your computer. I use this one myself.
> Allen & Heath Z-420
If you are using mixing board analog direct outs, that has nothing to do with your issue, which is localized to the interface and computer.
Your Delta set up "virtual studio" would make me uneasy on a good day. Maybe you should get a rack mount interface with knobs on it. Seriously, check out
alternately, lots of people are using a Focusrite interface with 8 ch. mic pre I/O for about $300. It is really very little pay-out for what you get.
You missed the recording interface, probably ~500. Example as linked above
I'd recommend working your way up to 7 mics. If you try to buy all seven at once, you'll end up getting cheap ones, and it'll sound worse than buying four good ones. Monoprice has a decent matched pair of condensors for $100. For the snare, you can go with an SM57. They're $100 new, but you can get them more cheaply used, and they last forever. I have the same ones I used in highschool, and they still work just as well as the day I got them. You can use it on your guitar cab, as well (or just buy two for live tracking). I also use a Beta 52 for the kick drum. That runs for a bit under $200.
As for stands, if you're not using them live, Guitar Centre sells a 10 pack for about $90. They aren't perfect, but they'll work.
So, for good equipment, you're looking at almost $600 in mics alone. You can get cheaper kits, but the sound quality won't be as good and they'll break more easily. You get what you pay for.
For bass, I just DI. You can buy a proper DI box or just plug into the interface. But, for $40, having a few DI boxes around comes in handy, especially if you want to record live. You can also mic the bass cab with something like the aforementioned Beta 52.
As I said before, you'll want an SM57 for the guitar cab. It gets the job done, and is pretty much the industry standard. You can spend more on fancier mics, but that money is best spent elsewhere.
As for vocals, you can buy a decent condenser mic from Monoprice, but to start off, just use the same 57 you've used for the guitar and drums, and just put a $14 pop filter on it.
Finally, you'll need an interface. If you really want to track seven drum mics, I'd go with a Tascam 1800 or a Focusrite 18i20. The latter is better quality, but also double the price.
Sadly, there is no good cheap method of doing things. But here in the digital age, things are a whole lot easier than going through to a 4-track cassette Portastudio when I was your age. If I was in your place, and had $1,000 to spend, I'd buy the following:
Tascam US-1800 ($250)
Two Behringer DI-100s ($80)
The Monoprice Small-Dia Matched Condensers ($100)
Shure Beta 52 ($200)
Two SM57s (or 58s) ($200)
The Guitar Centre 10 Mic Stand pack ($90)
And spend the rest on XLR and 1/4" cables from Monoprice.
After working on recording and mixing for a while, see if you want to expand your drum tracking, or if you want to invest in additional gear as needed. Nothing sucks more than blowing your budget, never using a certain thing, but having to do without something you discover you need.
And most importantly of all, have fun with it. It's a great experience.
I've personally have been using this thing for a year and have had no issues and it can do a bunch of channels simultaneously and only costs 50 dollars more, you can do live multitracking of multiple microphones with more than two things and recording quality is the same for both.
If you want to really have control over your final mix and actually well, mix it, you will need an interface and a DAW. Audacity is a free and very powerful DAW.
As far as the interface goes, it depends on how many inputs you need. An interface with 8 mic pres should get the job done. This is about as cheap as they come.
As I said in my post above, I have the Tascam US-1800 interface. It's great.
http://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-US-1800-4-out-Audio-Interface/dp/B0044FU6T2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377749402&sr=8-1&keywords=tascam+us-1800
That Magni 2 is a headphone amp, and won't give you balanced output. Take a look at the PreSonus AudioBox USB 2x2, it offers balanced TRS outputs...and has a nob.
The Peavey USB-P has no nob, but it can be had at a far lower price point, it was $36 last week so I expect it will drop again: https://www.amazon.com/Peavey-3001370-USB-Audio-Interface/dp/B004A4PSEU
Alternatively, for less than the cost of a stereo DI, you could just add a second output interface. I have this one and it's fine: Peavey USB Audio Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A4PSEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QMgfzbMA9GX3R
BOOSH
http://www.amazon.com/Peavey-USBP-USB-Audio-Interface/dp/B004A4PSEU
This works
If you don't need a mixer and just want a direct out of the computer into the LSR305's then get this.
https://www.amazon.com/Peavey-3001370-USB-Audio-Interface/dp/B004A4PSEU
and two XLR cables.
The Peavey will take the digital signal (USB) out of your computer and turn it into a BALANCED Analog signal through the XLR.
Balanced is the key here, as running cables near PC's and monitors, and routers you can pick up a decent amount of interference just coming 3.5mm out of your computer (Unbalanced).
I use one of these with my desktop speakers, Fostex PC-1e.
http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Fostex-Pc-1e-White/dp/B0058B1T4M/
Should also be available in an all black model.
Is there anything a bit more simple? Something like this but bigger? Would like the knob around the size of a palm
Oh my, so many terrible answers. You need a turntable with RCA outs to a phono preamp, then run that to a soundcard, or get a soundcard with multiple instrument ins and use those. This would work fine:
http://www.amazon.com/Presonus-AudioBox-22VSL-24-Bit-Interface/dp/B005G6CZRE
Then record to software.
Presonus Audiobox 22VSL
It is a bit pricier than most interfaces in the same price range. However, it does allow you to EQ, Compress and have a few effects on your vocals while recording.
Yeah, I've heard on another post where I was asking a different audio question that my XENYX is the main suspect for my audio problems, so I should consider switching it out. I wasn't sure if it was the mixer itself or that both the mixer's sound card and the computer's sound card sucked, or whatever (I don't have multiple pieces of equipment to test). But all things considered now, I really don't need a mixer anyway. I'm only ever recording me (one thing at a time), and for anything that requires EQ or anything like that I just use a DAW, so I am thinking that Focusrite Solo is perfect for me.
mmm the PreSonus Audiobox you linked, I've heard pretty bad things about it. However I did hear great things about the similarly named PreSonus AudioBox 22VSL. It's $175 compared to the Focusrite's $100 (or $150 for 2 XLR input), so I'll probably pick up the Focusrite anyway.
That said I won't have enough money for both the Focusrite and an SM58. I've had my eyes on the SM48-LC for a while. People say it's obviously not as good at the SM58 but still pretty much right up there, but at a 70% discount. I'll probably pick that up.
$100+$30+tax = ~$141. Mmmmmmmm so expensive to me but compared to anything else it is looking like a stellar deal.
Hey man, I'm also rocking KRK 8's (I have the first gen though) and I purchased this sound card: http://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-AudioBox-Advanced-Recording-Interface/dp/B005G6CZRE locally. It's been pretty flawless for months, and I love it. Very simple. That's my two cents.
This helps a ton. Great advice, and thanks for being so in depth. Programming drums is entirely new to me, and it's deceptively difficult. My buddy makes it look easy, but then again, he gets paid to do it.
As for my POD X3 Live, yes it does have a USB 2.0 connection, but from what I can tell its main purpose is to upload/download presets to it, it's not for recording. I know this because I first started experimenting with it and the sound was god awful. I alleviated this by buying a cheap ($200) audio interface with only two channels, and then used the D/I input. The interface is a Presonus:
http://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-AudioBox-Advanced-Recording-Interface/dp/B005G6CZRE
I don't know how good it is, but now that I have a few of your tips, maybe I'll be able to start getting some decents sounds out of it.
So, here's the build. Due to rule 2 for contributors I have created two builds. Please note that the first one goes well over your budget before rebates and promo discounts. It is a $1227 build. Remove the audio box and it becomes $1027. That means after discounts and rebates it becomes 889. I have an edited build underneath that fits your budget better.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-3570 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $206.97 @ Outlet PC
Motherboard | ASRock Z75 Pro3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | Purchased For $0.00
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $54.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | Purchased For $0.00
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.98 @ Outlet PC
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card | $248.98 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Sentey GS-6050 II Halcon (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $29.00 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair CX 500W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply | $34.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD Writer | $14.94 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) | Purchased For $0.00
Monitor | Asus VH238H 23.0" Monitor | $119.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus VH238H 23.0" Monitor | $119.99 @ Newegg
Other| PreSonus Audio Box| $199.95
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $1089.78
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-28 23:54 EDT-0400 |
CPU: Will perform all the tasks you need it to efficiently. Has 4 cores that work really efficiently and quick.
Memory: The only difference between the memory I chose and the memory you chose is that mine has heat spreaders on it, which are potentially helpful if your RAM ever starts to heat up.
Storage: The 1TB Caviar Blue will hold all the files you need, and you have plenty of room in the case and motherboard support to get more drives.
Video Card: The GTX 760 is a very high performance card. Somewhat pricey, it performs great and is among the newest line of cards out from nVidia right now.
Case: A well liked case, with a window and LEDs, that will fit what you've got. With your semi-modular PSU, cable management shouldn't be that much of an issue. Also has a lot of air flow.
PSU: Way better than your selected PSU. CoolMax makes cheap entry-level PSUs with very poor quality parts that are more likely to fail on you and perform worse. This PSU is semi-modular, which will make managing cables slightly easier, is rated more efficiently, and is built more soundly.
Audio Box: Just a little trinket to add to the system. This is not at all necessary, but may be worthwhile if you have no equipment for recording yet.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-3570 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $214.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock Z75 Pro3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | Purchased For $0.00
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $54.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | Purchased For $0.00
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.98 @ Outlet PC
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card | $189.99 @ Newegg
Case | Sentey GS-6050 II Halcon (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $29.00 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair CX 500W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply | $34.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD Writer | $14.94 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) | Purchased For $0.00
Monitor | AOC e2351F 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $117.47 @ TigerDirect
Monitor | AOC e2351F 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $117.47 @ TigerDirect
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $819.82
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-29 00:06 EDT-0400 |
This build fits your budget better before discounts are applied. The differences are that your monitors are cheaper because they are not on sale, which effects the price before discount. Also instead of the newer 760 I have selected a previous gen 660. The 660 will still work very well, has two fans and a good cooling system so you can even overclock it slightly.
If you have ANY questions, do not hesitate to ask. I will be going to sleep shorty, so you may not get a response for a few hours though.
Thanks for the reply! I actually left out that I did use Midi Monitor, and saw that the Master Edit mode wasn't sending any data. I figured it may be the issue, but thought maybe Midi Monitor doesn't look for Sysex.
This is what I'm using for an interface at the moment...
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Synthesizer-Microphone-Instrument-Converter/dp/B00D3QFHN8
I was under the suspicion it was already causing me some trouble(notes hang until I change patch here and there, among a couple other weird happenings)...so I went ahead and bought this earlier today...
http://www.amazon.com/Roland-UM-ONE-MK2-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00967UN50/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1457351458&sr=1-1&keywords=roland+usb+to+midi
Congratulations. Microkorg was my first synth too.
It can be a bit confusing to start with due to the menu diving involved in programming patches. However if you buy a usb to midi interface you can download free patch editor software so you can see what you are doing with the sound.
https://www.korg.com/us/support/download/software/0/104/3500/
Roland UM-ONE mk2 USB MIDI Interface https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00967UN50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hcwUCb9KMJ6S4
Cheaper ones are available but I had a cheap one that did not work for editing patches.
Some devices have MIDI over USB, your audio interface can do this if it has MIDI ports. Ableton sends MIDI data via USB to your audio interface, which sends it out the 5-pin midi ports.
As far as a straight MIDI-to- USB cable, Roland makes one. Here's a link: Roland MIDI Cable (UM-ONE-MK2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00967UN50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sO0RDbA9499CZ
I use the UM-ONE interface and would highly recommend it. And for a virtual instrument, EZ Drummer is great.
https://www.amazon.com/Roland-UM-ONE-MK2-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00967UN50
Also, after looking at the beatstep, I don't see any way to send midi information out. I think what you want to do is sync the volca with your DAW, which can be done using a device like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/Roland-UM-ONE-mk2-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00967UN50
To play it through a DAW on pc, all you need is a midi to usb cable such as this one
https://www.amazon.com/Roland-UM-ONE-MK2-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00967UN50
For iPad, I have no idea.
Edit: Wait a minute, I may have misunderstood the question. The cable I mentioned is obviously for if you want to use the microkorg as a midi controller. If you want to record its voice, I'm afraid I don't have experience with that.
To properly record multiple simultaneous instruments, you'll want a USB audio interface. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-6i6-Interface-Preamps/dp/B00CP4IIJY
Everything else will sound like garbage compared to a good USB interface.
The PC itself doesn't even matter all that much. You'd be fine with an i3 and 8GB of RAM, though a more powerful setup would certainly be nice.
I'm in the market for an audio interface. Ideally I'd like 4-8 xlr/trs inputs and equal outputs over usb. I simply want to hook up a few guitars, my vdrums and other things to it and record them all at once with their own tracks into the DAW. I'm hoping for a price below $200. This is mostly for fun in the apartment with friends.
For the price, the best things I've found are these:
behringer umc404 with 4 in and 4 out for $150
focusrite 6i6 with 6 in/out but only two xlr/trs combo prots for $250. Inr eality 4 in and out minus the spdif.
Akalai eie pro with 4 xlr/trs combo in/out at $250
The behringer does what I want plus has effect plugins in the back. Why is it $100 dollars cheaper than the next two? I want to make sure I'm not missing anything important before I make my purchase.
No worries! It can be quite overwhelming if you never shopped for an audio interface before. The first thing you'll need is an interface with 48V phantom power, many microphones requires power and some audio interface does not provide it, you should avoid them since you will be limited in your microphone choice.
Here are a few choice, there's are 2 ins and 2 out interface (between $150 to $250)
PreSonus AudioBox USB 2x2
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 2 In/2 Out USB
M-Audio M-Track Plus II USB
If you think you'll need more inputs (maybe you want to record a drum) these cost between $200 to $500
M-Audio MTRACK QUAD
M-Audio M-Track Eight 8-Channel
Focusrite Scarlett 6i6
Focusrite SCARLETT 18i8 18
Behringer FCA1616
If you're a guitarist you could consider a multi-effect processor like these ($700-$800):
Line 6 POD HD Pro X
Avid Eleven Rack
These two offers the advantage of having your amps and effect processing at basically no latency, they are also great for recording vocals with low-latency monitoring with effects.
There's a lot of choice but as long as you have enough inputs for recording all that you intend to record then you're good to go.
You're typically looking for an USB audio interface with line inputs, such as this (I have the older version of that, and have been very happy with it)
As a bonus: It's also a pretty good DAC, so you could possibly sell your Magni to offset the extra cost
I've had pretty good luck with the Scarelett 6i6 having really fluid volume control (for the price). It's got loads of inputs, and while larger and not marketed as a DAC/Pre Amp, it does a nice job. I've heard bad things about bus power from their smaller models, but have been quite liking mine so far (I do use it with powered monitors though)
Hope this helps, your thread seemed lonely :(
Firstly, you should watch some videos of people using different gear and giving it reviews to see if it fits what you want.
I'm not sure why you would want a mixer unless you had a lot of physical instruments and/or mics that you need record at the same time. If you really want some sliders there are things like MPDs or APCs. I can't play the piano, so I don't mind having a little keyboard. I like the keystation mini 32, because it has a lot of keys, but it is very small.
There are more simple pads like the Korg padKontrol.
If you really want an abelton specific controller consider getting the push. It's expensive though.
As I said, look up videos of everything.
Mi sono fissato su questa tastiera portatile per suonare da solo amatorialmente, ma non ho idea di come funzioni.
Premesso che so usare abbastanza bene Caustic, qualcuno di voi sà dirmi se questa tastiera viene con un programma simile? Mi tenta tantissimo...
Okay cool, good call out!
Found this one with decent reviews and it appears to have a midi connection.
https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Keystation-61-II-Controller/dp/B00IWX2SR0/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1473097404&sr=1-1&keywords=M-Audio+Keystation+61+61-key+MIDI+Controller
So I think I want to go with a MIDI (I was kinda using keyboard as more of a generic term) and was looking at this one, which seems pretty good, as I believe i've seen quite a few videos now that show that the 61-keys should suffice for what I want it for. It seems from what i've seen from my research that M-Audio is a fairly respected brand and generally puts out a decent product, so they seemed like the best bet for a cheap 61 key MIDI keyboard.
I assume you mean a midi keyboard. They come in several sizes, from 25 keys up to full sized 88 key models, and the prices vary accordingly.
For EDM, 61 keys is probably enough but in case you are interested in a full size model I've put links to a couple of options I'd recommend below.
http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Keystation-61-Keyboard-Controller/dp/B00IWX2SR0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459104788&sr=8-1&keywords=maudio+61+key
In case you want a full size model:
http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Keystation-88-Keyboard-Controller/dp/B00IWTS58A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459104825&sr=8-1&keywords=maudio+88+key
I have a Novation Remote SL, and I can say that Novation makes a good keyboard, but don't expect those keys to feel like piano keys: they're very light. This can be a good thing, I actually prefer lighter keys for playing very fast runs (rock organ, etc).
For simplicity tho, I recommend starting with something a little cheaper. Look for an M Audio Keystation 61. Here
There's less features, but as a novice you aren't going to be using all the sliders, and the pads on Novations are crap. I never use mine. I prefer using the keyboard to bang in drum patterns too. You'll save a bit of money, I actually think you'll like the keys on the M Audio more than the Novation (I had an older M Audio Oxygen which has the same keybed). If you decide later you want a shitton of knobs, you can sell the keystation and upgrade. That's all part of the process.
As for a drum machine, there are free VST drum instruments that you can use. I recommend starting with software before buying hardware instruments.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Piano-Keyboard/Audio-Keystation-61-II-Controller-Sensitive-Including/B00IWX2SR0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486292626&sr=8-1&keywords=midi+controller+weighted you use this to control synths and stuff on your computer., its a nicer keybed so it will feel good to play.
Using two interfaces isn’t really an option unless they’re designed that way, and most cheap interfaces lack word clock / adat.
Search google, amazon, Sweetwater for “recording interface.”
Do you have a budget, and is 8 channels what you need?
Tascam US-16X08 16x8 channel USB Audio Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIXF200/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_U-7FAb4X996ZE
A mixer will fit your needs, but it's going to take the mic inputs and mix them down to a single stereo channel. That's what mixers do. It's great if you're performing lie. For recording a podcast, You might want to consider an audio interface. The workflow will be a little different (you'll adjust levels and such mostly in software) but each mic will have their own track so if someone has a coughing fit , for example, you can easily mute their track until things have quieted down. Cost ranges from around $250 up to several hundred or more for one with 8 inputs. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-US-16x08-USB-Audio-Interface/dp/B00MIXF200/ref=sr_1_18?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491568839&sr=1-18&keywords=audio+interface
Somebody might make a USB mixer eventually, but it's really only useful in a narrow subset of the consumer world and it would cost more than an analog mixer. The USB mics have the pre-amp and analog-digital converter built in already. To build a mixer you'd either have to have a host computer built into the box that could handle multiple USB inputs, driver support, and either a touch screen or physical controls to handle the levels and other mixer functions, then it would need another USB interface to connect to a computer. It's an expensive and inelegant solution just to allow consumer mics to be used with a form of a mixer.
I use the Tascam US-1800. The current version is this. I highly, highly recommend it.
i use this tascam: https://www.amazon.com/Tascam-US-16X08-channel-Audio-Interface/dp/B00MIXF200/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502468937&sr=8-1&keywords=tascam+1800
it works well!
> single piece with io and pres
Probably this. My FP10 doesn't have ability to stack on an ADAT otherwise that would be the cheapest way into more ins.
I'd really like to ditch the firewire altogether. The Tascam US-16x08 USB interface unit I posted earlier looks interesting. Other than that I can't find a USB interface with more than 8 inputs for under $500.
I have been really happy with the Tascam US-16-08
http://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-US-16x08-USB-Audio-Interface/dp/B00MIXF200/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451196316&sr=8-1&keywords=tascam+us16x08
> Multitrack audio interface
Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-US-16x08-USB-Audio-Interface/dp/B00MIXF200
Thanks for the quick reply!
I was actually looking at the Alesis Q49 because someone suggested the no-longer-made SteelSeries Merc keyboard for Perform and the Alesis looked like a cheaper alternative.
Edit: looking at others, the midiplus AK490 MIDI looks a cheaper alternative to Alesis Q49.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MIDIExpand--keith-mcmillen-instruments-midi-expander?adpos=1o2&creative=55226083081&device=t&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CNTV74myscwCFQqKaQodtooO7A
I wonder if that would work for any controller with a standard USB output?
I bet this would work:
http://www.kentonuk.com/products/items/utilities/usb-host.shtml
but honestly, just go buy one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/midiplus-AK490-MIDI-Keyboard-Controller/dp/B00VHKM72Q/ref=sr_1_23?s=musical-instruments&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1525116771&sr=1-23&keywords=midi+controller&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
My recommendation would be to jump back in. start out with a basic 49 key midi keyboard that you can plug right into a laptop or an ipad. A basic hand strengthener is great to have in the car to improve dexterity.
​
Or- if you have an ipad, get garageband and use the on-screen keyboard to start practicing . Youtube is great for lessons and you can adjust the playback to slower speeds.
get a cheap midi controller:
one example
you can go cheaper, or more expensive.
------------------
get a Digital Audio Workstation (DAW).
mac: Logic Pro
PC or mac: Abelton Live, FL Studio, Pro Tools, etc
---------------------
all of this is fairly cheap, assuming you already have a computer.
now you have a functional keyboard.
you can learn as much music as you want on your own, if you have the drive. everything you need you can find online. you can get great harmony, counterpoint, voice leading, and musical form books.
for ear training, start by just singing along with melodies you play on the midi controller. start with simply slow melodies. away from the pressure of a teacher testing you in front of a class, i bet you'll start finding the pitches easily pretty quickly. i bet you will improve much faster than you expect.
to repeat, because it's the most important thing: you can learn as much as you want on your own. you don't need teachers, you don't need university, only the internal drive, and access to a keyboard and music theory books. good luck.
--------------------------------------
edit:
you can even get started today
http://virtualpiano.net/
hit some pitches, and sing them.
I got a MIDIplus AK490 off of amazon. There might be better options, but this one works good enough for me. You might have different preferences, so you should probably check other options before you buy.
Not that I can think of. I just took mine out of the case, just the device and the USB cable. It draws power from the USB, so no power cord. Comes with some software too, but it's not a real DAW or anything really good tbh.
----
FYI-
The Akai MPK Mini pretty cheap (new) on amazon, btw ($100). Goes on sale sometimes (was @$80 at xmas IIRC). Same price on sweetwater.
https://www.amazon.com/Akai-Professional-MPK-Mini-Controller/dp/B00IJ6QAO2
White limited edition is back in stock too ($100). Only differs cosmetically, but some people like it.
https://www.amazon.com/Akai-Professional-Mini-MKII-White/dp/B01M13A6JT
Also, for the sake of diversity, the Launchkey Mini 25 at @$100. (New) Launchkey comes with Ableton Live Lite (a DAW). They make quality stuff, too but it's Ableton oriented. That's a plus because you basically get a free version of the introductory version of a great DAW. That's a minus though if you try Ableton and decide it's not for you (the major DAWs are all good, it's really preference at the high levels of stuff like Ableton, Logic, FL, etc).
https://www.amazon.com/Novation-Launchkey-Keyboard-Controller-LAUNCHKEY-MINI-MK2/dp/B00VVNOMGI
Ableton. Some midi controllers (Novation Launchkey Novation Launchkey Mini) and audio interfaces(Focusrite 2i2 ) come with a free lite version.(there are more things that come with it, those are just the three I can think of right now) Or you can buy the "Intro" version for $99. A site that I like for Instruments is called VST 4 Free
there are plenty. the leading thing on DAW connectivity is the midi. if it speaks midi, you can work with it.
Akai Professional APC Mini paired with ... say... akai midimix totals for 87+ 89 bucks. easy af to save up and you can perform with that rig straight up.
need a bit more keyboardy thing? switch APC with some tiny key keyboard like novation launch key ( https://www.amazon.com/Novation-Launchkey-25-Note-Keyboard-Controller/dp/B00VVNOMGI )
many options, all totals under 200 bucks in every scenario
Why not both! The theory is the same, it's just the hand skills that are different. You'll probably find yourself gravitating to one or the other which is fine. Practice 30min - 1hour a day and you should pick it up pretty quickly. Tons of online tutorials for both instruments, just make sure you actually play along and do the exercises because just watching isn't good enough. Money wise you could get both a uke and mini keyboard for under $200 total.
​
Kala makes cheap ukuleles that sound pretty damn good. Their more expensive ones are good too, but no need to spend that much yet. Lohanu's are super popular and sound good as well.
Soprano is the more traditional size, Concert is a little bigger with a bit more fret spacing which is nice if you have big hands.
Ukes:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F543PAW
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015XD4YLY
Useful accessories:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JI3XDDK
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QL1EZC
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC5TMJB
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D1N49MC
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004RALL
​
Midi Keyboards (Note: these connect to your computer):
Komplete Kontrol M32 (best software bundle by far)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2VQ1NH
Arturia MiniLab MkII 25
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSNIVKE
Akai MPK Mini MKII
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ6QAO2
Novation Launchkey Mini 25
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VVNOMGI
​
Too lazy to do useful accessories for this at the moment.
Yep, I don't do photography professionally, but I always hated that post processing took so long, and how my arm/wrist would start to cramp up after a while. I can game all day and nothing, but after an hour of editing, and my arm and wrist start to hurt from the tension of moving them sliders and stuff.
You can go the easy way of a Loupedeck, it's more expensive, but already all setup. I didn't get a Loupedeck, because from the research that I did about it, a few too many people complained about it's build quality (warped board where not every corner is sitting on the desk, the buttons and knobs feeling cheap, both material and function).
So I ended up picking up the next best choice (again this is from personal research) a few months back, and it was the BEHRINGER USB Controller XTOUCHMINI off of Amazon for 60$.
There were other options, usually more expensive, with more knobs and more buttons, and some sliders, but this one was the most often chosen one by people.
If you go this way, you'd have to do a bit of work setting it up (either download someone's profile presets, or very easily make your own preset for every knob and button), and then make your own labels for everything, but it works great after.
I use this and it’s working great!
M-Audio M-Track 2X2 C-Series | 2-in/2-out USB Audio Interface (24-bit/192kHz)
The only issue is that I can’t charge my iPad while I’m recording. I’m still trying to figure out a solution.
Sorry for the late reply, I missed the notification.
Those videos were great. Christ I didn't realise how much of a difference it can make.
http://imgur.com/a/QM714 <-- this is a floor plan I've drawn of my room. It's a pretty big room I'd say; for sizes I'd say from door to window (straight line) is about 4m. Height at tallest point is about 2.5-3m. I can't get pictures of the actual room because it's at uni and I'm home now so this'll have to do. Windows are right next to mixing area basically...
I mostly make melodic electronic stuff but with quite a lot of sampled instruments (Kontakt 5). Distance from window/wall can change a little but the monitors themselves probably can't be further than two to three feet away. I still don't fully understand porting but I think I remember me deciding front was better for my setup (although I would love it was explained fully :)
My budget (including audio interface because I have a shit laptop sound card) is around £350-£400 tops. I'm currently looking at the M-audio BX8 D2s for monitors and the M audio M-track 2x2s Is 8inch too big? It is bedroom producing, but I have a decent-ish size bedroom (for England)
Hope that's everything. Thanks so much for your help :)
Edit: room size changes
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01FFH5XMC/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_w
I was referring to timthetatman. He does have a lot of bookshelves and random furniture in a small room.
I've just had a few AT headphones that I like and seeing as Tim is very successful at streaming and his stuff sounded great, figured I'd pick it up.
To be honest, I'm not really looking to make a profession out of this stuff, I'm a realist, I know it will never happen. I just prefer to use nice/decent headphones with an amp over gaming headsets, but I hate things like the ModMic so figured I'd pick up a legit microphone.
So if I'm in the middle of a large room (36ft x 14ft) and there's little to nothing done to help sound, what kind of mic should I be looking at? I was going to get this USB interface with the AT2035 but it seems as if that wouldn't be optimal?
Look at the proposed systems above both are small enough to fit on a desktop and are fairly cheap as well.
to quote: "
In an effort to cut down on some of the repetitive questions, here are the absolutely cheapest systems we are willing to recommend.
Accessories
For the JBL-based setup, here are some accessories if you want to connect the speakers directly to a computer without an external DAC:
For the Micca setups, you'll need this to connect directly to a computer:
If you're going for the Micca MB42X + SMSL solution, you'll also need speaker wire:
Is it better to get an all-in-one desktop solution or a more expensive modular desktop solution?
Right now I just want really good speakers for my desktop. I've been hardset on the Vanatoo T0's, which include bluetooth, usb, optical, and aux in. They're pretty much everything I need in one amazing package.
But on the other hand, I've been looking at near-field studio monitors like the JBL 305P, the Mackie MR524 and audio interfaces like the Mackie Big Knob and other DAC's. The big knob also has an input for a microphone which I might want to use for high-quality recording.
Then there's also buying a desktop amp like the SMSL AD18 paired with an actual pair of speakers.
Both the modularity and upgradability appeal to me, but the compactness of the vanatoo's is also so nice.
Any thoughts?
Just as an FYI, these are one of the most frequently recommended speakers for the price and at sub $150/speaker this deal is excellent. If you want some other accessories for these, this starter kit is also recommended over on r/audiophile (Canadian Amazon link)
So with these speakers the volume control knob is on the back. If you want a physical volume button that you can easily reach, this is your best bet. https://smile.amazon.com/JBL-ACTPACK-Active-Speaker-Starter/dp/B01I1DGYDE
Looking to control my office setup's volume with an external knob. Need to see if my thought on this will work:
or is there a better way I should be going about controlling the setup (like with a separate controls for the base and monitors)? Thank you!
So I'm looking at getting the JBL recommendation and want to make sure I would be ordering the correct things.
Speakers (2): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUKP37C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A25IRTXJ3Y3DFH&amp;psc=1
JBL Active Speaker Set (1):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1DGYDE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A25IRTXJ3Y3DFH&amp;psc=1
Thank you and I look forward to a response!
Pm'd you. So I'm like 0 level beginner. Have basically no knowledge of any of this stuff but I want to learn keyboard. I've seen some people say that drumpads on a keyboard aren't that great but that they should be fine for a beginner, or that you can even use the keys for the drum parts. Would something like this be a good choice? I like that it's not too expensive, plug and play (easy), has keyboards and drum pad, and a pretty good rating. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M13A6JT/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1I have also considered the Akai LPK25, or a similar one by Pyle. Or a Worlde Panda one that has drumpads as well. But this one looks like the best option to me so far.I have a CAD usb mic which I use mostly to record myself singinghttps://www.amazon.com/CAD-Studio-Condenser-Recording-Microphone/dp/B001AIQGUO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cad+microphone&qid=1559163345&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-3The reason I want to make my own music, rather than using premade instrumentals is that I want to make something that's completely mine, that I can be proud of. I know it'll probably be a long way til I'm making anything decent but I figure it'll be a fun learning process, at least I hope.Thanks for your help!
&#x200B;
Edit: Oh, also I've researched on good options for free DAWs and I've seen a lot of websites say that Magix Music Maker is probably the best free DAW for Windows. And it also looks the easiest to use, though I haven't been able to do much with it yet. Do you know anything about that? I would definitely still like to get Ableton Live Lite to see if that ends up being preferable.
I’m thinking of buying this
https://www.amazon.com/Akai-Professional-Mini-MKII-White/dp/B01M13A6JT
Is it the right product?
No. The Behringer sends out balanced signal via 1/4" TRS to XLR.
Maybe you'd be better off moving the computer a bit.
Smaller.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCUZ32O/ref=sxts_kp_bs_lp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&amp;pd_rd_wg=VoqSC&amp;pf_rd_r=91BHSVWVXR9W35BRMV75&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;pd_rd_i=B01NCUZ32O&amp;pd_rd_w=5neVK&amp;pf_rd_i=mackie+big+knob&amp;pd_rd_r=341f41d8-d8b1-410f-a6a8-72e565993a10&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541678262&amp;sr=1
https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Controller-2x2-KNOB-Passive/dp/B01NCUZ32O?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1 this looks like what you are referring to.
Your best bet is buying something like this temporarily until you can get something better, like an audio interface with MIDI or something else:
https://www.amazon.com/FORE-Interface-Converter-Adapter-Laptop/dp/B0719V8MX1/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+midi&qid=1569408919&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Thank you!
I have the 1/4" TS jack cables. I've already got the Blo working, using my DAW to route my Keystation 61 in.
I tried my Keystation direct to the Blo using the cable I linked, did not work. And was powering the Keystation with AC adapter. It has that, as well as DIN out, but also can out and in and power via USB.
So would it work with the Keystation direct to the Blo via this:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-MIDI-Cable-Connector-Molded/dp/B009GUP7U8/ref
(and of course, use the 1/4" TS jack cables out to the amp.)
?
&#x200B;
I thought that's what I was doing when I used this, which did not work, even if I plugged the USB into the computer for power, as an experiment: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719V8MX1
Thanks for the response! I was looking at this DAC. It looks like it also has a preamp built in. https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Onyx-Artist-1-2-Interface-x/dp/B07664LMPQ?th=1&amp;psc=1
Would this be a good option?
I would get this interface. https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Onyx-Artist-1-2-Interface-x/dp/B07664LMPQ/
It has a good soundcard, you can connect your microphone over xlr.
Also right on the money regarding your budget.
Personally I use the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 for my microphone needs, but I dont run my headphones on it.
And like Oratory said, stay away from the cheap Behringer gear.
Take a look at the Mackie interfaces. Ive no idea why they don't get more attention. I switched from Focusrite to a Mackie Producer 2.2 and it's far better than my Scarlett ever was
Mackie Onyx Artist Audio Interface
I would get the K & M Microphone Stand with Telescopic Boom Arm. IT may be easier to get a desk based stand but this will remove the microphone from physical contact with the same table you are using for your computer/recorder/mouse to prevent noises from translating from the table through the stand to the microphone and into your recording.
I would urge you to go higher than $100 for the microphone to a large diameter broadcast dynamic microphone like the re20 or the re320. You can get a package from BSWusa.com to include the shockmount and the pop filter that's the best deal around but if you want to stay under $100 per item I would recommend either the Samson Q2U or the sE Electronics V7.
If you use the sE Electronics V7 I would recommend one of the Makie Audio Interfaces. The Mackie Onyx Artist is currently under $100 but if you wanted to futureproof yourself with the ability to expand to one additional microphone I would highly recommend going with the Mackie Onyx Producer instead. The Samson Q2U can output via USB and XLR at the same time so you could go into the Mac and a XLR connection (like a portable audio recorder) at the same time with no need for the Mackie Interface.
The next one is outside of your price range but I would highly recommend that you invest in a portable audio recorder. Yes you can record straight to your Mac but I've seen so many software recorders fail and lose episodes that a hardware recorder is generally best in my opinion. For your application I would either recommend the Zoom H5 at $270 or the Sound Devices Mix Pre-3 at $650. Either will work for you but the preamps and options on the Mix Pre-3 are pretty sweet. Also, if you upgrade to the re20 or the re320 the preamps on the Mix Pre 3 won't be working as hard and might end up giving you a cleaner sound. The Mix Pre-3 can also act as an audio interface to your Mac as you record at the same time so there would be no need for the Mackie Audio Interface. You can use the Zoom H5 without an audio interface as well but you cannot record on the Zoom H5 and pass the audio to your Mac via USB at the same time.
There's other things I would consider as well but if it was me I'd grab the Zoom H5, the sE Electronics V7 and record straight to a the Zoom.
Im looking to buy amp for my headphones as well as option to connect my guitar/microphone in it. What would be best option for my Seinheiser hd599?
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Interface-Bundle-Polishing/dp/B074F2V6VJ/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Onyx-Artist-1-2-Interface/dp/B07664LMPQ/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&&#37;2AVersion&#37;2A=1&&#37;2Aentries&#37;2A=0
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UM2-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURUBE?th=1
Both links you provided would involve RCA to either XLR or TS adapters which would be an unbalanced connection to your speakers.
This Peavey Audio Interface + 2 XLR cables would provide a balanced connection.
There's also these from more reliable manufacturers; seem to be same price.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Roland-UM-ONE-mk2-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00967UN50/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491346657&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+midi+interface
https://www.amazon.co.uk/iConnectivity-midi-mio-iconnectivity-Mio/dp/B00CO5IRSG
how about something not so expensive for start? :/
like:
http://www.amazon.de/M-Audio-Keystation-Mini-32-MIDI-Kontroller/dp/B00IWRJSE2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419987033&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=midi+keyboard
or
http://www.amazon.de/Classic-Cantabile-MK-49-USB-programmierbarer/dp/B0041K7LC0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419987033&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=midi+keyboard
I cut an old usb cable, and wired three of the four wires to their respective pins, based on this diagram. When i turn on the keyboard, the windows device connected noise comes on, but it says "Device Not Recognized". I tried adding the white wire to each pin (on the MIDI out) that was un-used, and still nothing. Ive tried to install yamaha midi controller drivers, but no luck. Ive noticed every midi to usb converter cable has a little box on the wire. is that what stores the drivers? There is something i'm missing, but i don't know what. I could buy it, but i want to make sure its completely impossible to do on my own before i spend my scarce money. any thoughts?