Best dimmer switches according to redditors
We found 1,297 Reddit comments discussing the best dimmer switches. We ranked the 229 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,297 Reddit comments discussing the best dimmer switches. We ranked the 229 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1W-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY0S4G
Then you can have a remote! And if you care, the Lutron Caseta Bridge will allow you to control it with your phone, and it also integrates nicely with Home Assistant, if you want to go that route (look it up!). Otherwise, the dimmer and remote will work by themselves.
P.S. ♥️
You want to know something that drives me nuts?
I had to put in a bunch of wireless switches the other day. Probably around 20 or so. The only way you can buy them is individually packaged, so each time you're buying a 5" x 3" cardboard box that contains a plastic clamshell that contains the product. The mounting plates have to be bought separately in four-packs. This four-pack box contains four individual cardboard boxes, each of which contain paper instructions and the actual wall mounting box.
This is for three bits of plastic that, collectively, can fit in the palms of your hand.
That futurama oreo gag just isn't that funny to me anymore. Now it just makes me sigh.
This system is great.
We have a Logitech Harmony hub based remote and I've used Caseta switches to control the living room lighting, ceiling fans, and the fireplace.
GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Heavy Duty 40 Amp Smart Switch, Indoor/Outdoor Rated 120-277V, Energy Monitoring, Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14285, Metal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8uihDb7SNW5NN
https://bosscontrols.com/product/boss-220-smart-plug/
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Direct-Wire-Appliances-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0/
https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Ceiling-PD-6WCL-WH/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KLAXFQA&pd_rd_r=4R6Z7QBRPGDWM80H1SES&pd_rd_w=dOmWU&pd_rd_wg=2jlSf&psc=1&refRID=4R6Z7QBRPGDWM80H1SES
These don't require a neutral.
These become a LOT more functional if you spring for the $25 Hue Dimmer switch for each room. Gives you on/off/dimmer plus in the app you can set it up so you can cycle through 5 different scenes as you keep pressing the ON button. You can also add automations (like color changing) by holding ON, etc...
Switches dock in the plate with a magnet so you can remove it and leave it on your nightstand or coffee table for easy control. Also, since it pairs directly with the Hue hub, it's all local control.
It's really nice to be able to just tap the control to pick a scene or dim the lights without having to talk to Google or Siri. These suckers made an almost regrettably expensive lighting purchase much more enjoyable and usable for everyone.
GE switches with add-ons can be 3+ way and dimmable. The 'addons' inherit the master switch's abilities.
Z wave, zigbee, or wifi versions all available.
Product page: GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch, Full Dimming, In-Wall, Incl. White and Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14294 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7hCkDbEVYC4R9
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4
Yeah I got the warm white versions cause I wanted them less blue looking.
For dimmer this is what I got: http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Dimming-Controller-LED-Lights/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381518684&sr=1-1&keywords=led+dimmer
You're also going to need a power supply. I got this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Power-Suppply-Driver-Transformer/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=pd_sim_hi_1
However, I wired all my wires by hand. They do have jacks on them though as well.
Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Inline-Dimmer-LED-Strips/dp/B004T9ITQ0/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381518743&sr=1-4&keywords=led+dimmer
And then you can use a generic laptop type power adapter as long as the wattage is correct. I plan on revamping my setup at some point to make it easier to setup.
You need a dry-contact z-wave switch like one of these:
The switches would be powered at 110V AC, with the 24V wiring connected to the dry/isolated contact side.
I have an Ecobee4 thermostat (although Alexa doesn’t work as well for me as I hoped) w/ Ecobee remote sensors mounted in every room. Not only is this great for managing the temp in the house overall, but now I can include temp changes in my automations and geo-fencing.
In addition, although I find them a bit slow to respond when using them as room entry motion sensors, the Ecobee remote sensors are great for automatically turning off the lights when a room is no longer occupied.
I also recently added some non-HomeKit “smarter” switches in my bathroom and laundry room. In the laundry room, I put a simple Lutron (not Caseta) motion sensor switch to auto turn the light on/off when someone comes/goes from the laundry room. Works fantastically, it’s simple, and not too expensive.
In my bathroom, I added three new Lutron (not Caseta) switches.
The first two of those switches are far more programmable than I thought... reading the instructions really paid off! :)
The Lutron Claro wall plates are really great as well. They are very clean, simple, and modern looking... and their 2-part design makes it really easy to adjust all your switches for a precision installation (i.e. flush and straight).
In my bedroom, my bedside lamps are controlled by 1 Lutron Caseta lamp dimmer w/ remote. I use the same style Caseta lamp dimmer for a few other standalone lamps... and even used one to automate (just on/off) my outside LED holiday lights last winter (the dimmability of which was fantastic, as they are normally way too bright).
In conclusion, before spending a bunch of money, my advice would be to think carefully about how you/others use certain rooms and if a motion detection switch would suffice or if a more complex automation control is needed. Also... do the math. As others have pointed out, one alternative may be way more cost effective over another when you factor in the number of bulbs and/or switches involved.
One last thing... I am renting a room to a guy who's on a totally different schedule than me and as such, I never knew if he was in his room sleeping or out of the house elsewhere. So... since I had previously added him to my HomeKit household... I use a combination of geofencing with his phone, and the Ecobee motion sensor in his room, to switch on/off a particular lamp when he comes & goes. That way... it's easy for me to know if I need to be quiet, or if I can rock out with my socks out.
*EDIT: Added a bunch of links and more...
Non affiliate link: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0/. Spam out.
You'll need one dimmer switch, and a second "slave" switch. GE has a good pair [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-45613-Wireless-Lighting-Three-Way/dp/B0013V58K2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487104987&sr=1-6&keywords=GE+zwave+switch).
Or [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Smart-Dimmer-Z-Wave-14294/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487104987&sr=1-5&keywords=GE+zwave+switch) and [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487105148&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+zwave+switch+add+on) separately.
Alexa/Google Home are compatible with the bridge, not the bulbs, meaning any bulb that works with the bridge works with them. When Ikea advertises compatibility they mean for their bridge, so don't use that as a guide.
Hue bulbs are built on a standard called ZigBee Light Link (ZLL), so are the Ikea bulbs. As long as you buy bulbs that faithfully implement the standard you should be okay (Ikea bulbs might need a firmware update from their bridge to do this). If the bulb supports dimming/color temperature via ZLL then the Hue Bridge will be able to control them, and by extension Google Home.
All this said, if you're doing your whole house, have you considered smarthome light switches? Something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MUCZA1C/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510413289&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=zwave+dimmer .
They work just like a normal light switch you can press to turn on/off/dim but add a SmartThings/Wink hub and you can control them via Google Home/Alexa and have all the automated routines/etc you get via Hue. For multi-bulb fixtures I use those switches, plus Philips Warm Glow LED bulbs, which change colour temperature as they dim. The result is full smart home control, good colour temperatures, regular wall switches so I don't have to use my voice all the time, and I can buy cheap non-smart bulbs.
Also, be aware that one Hue bridge is limited to 50 bulbs and 7 dimmer switches. That's the other reason I went for wall switches, I would need multiple bridges and then I couldn't have one button to turn off the whole house.
The best thing for you, imo, since you’ve already invested a lot in hue is to get the little hue dimmer remotes. You’d use the remotes instead of the physical switches and you’d lock the switches with a switch lock/guard.
Philips 473371 Hue Dimmer Switch Smart Remote (Installation-Free, Exclusive for Philips Hue Lights), White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dpaSAbSV6SY55
In the future, as was already said, if you can use a smart switch then it would almost always be preferred to use a smart switch.
Edit:keep in mind that the smart switch from GE is zwave and requires a zwave hub like smartthings.
If you were to get into a hub then that opens up a while world of other possibilities but I think that might be beyond your scope of what you want.
So it’s a double hit with keeping the wife happy.
First, she won’t want you to replace everything you have. That would just be wasteful spending.
To make things easier to start, I would suggest the connected bulb remote from Lutron. If set up correctly you would have on/off as well as dimming control of your hue lights, while they ecstatically keep things looking tidy. (They fit in standard decora wallplates which should do the trick.
Now my general rule of thumb is to prevent “dumb” accessories. Something that can easily lose its power and no longer respond. The only hue light in my house vulnerable to this is the 2 A19 bulbs above my stove. I just always leave the stove light on now as the connected bulb remote is nearby, plus it controls under cabinet hue light strips (thus double benefit).
For long term happy wife / happy life (following not just rule 2, but rule 1: don’t waste money) I would suggest the Lutron Caséta line. They can be configured in 2 pole, 3 pole, and 4 pole (takes creativity). They offer dimming & on/off switches. They also offer Serena shades which use the same hub, and have the same size of remote.
I have friends who say that decora sizing doesn’t matter, but it’s once you add on to your setup with outlet switches, blind control, lights, fans, spotify, etc… that having everything on a single wallplate is super nice.
On a final note. To change colours, I drive via Siri allot. Most of my scenes would have a colour, but if not then a simple “set the kitchen to red” will suffice.
Fin.
edit: link
Yes, ofcourse. You need a hue lamp
, a hue dimmer switchand a hue bridge.As long as these 3 devices are in the same subnet it will work. This is the basic idea of Hue lights. You can also use a mobile phone to control the light, if connected to the same network or through internet if you have associated an account with the bridge.
EDIT: Sorry, I thought/remembered that the devices communicate via Wifi. Like /u/maxtor202003 mentioned, they use ZigBee together.
Still, this is possible, but the "switch" should be a device of some kind, that communicates with the bridge via network (WiFi/Internet). You could build such switch quite easily, for example by using a ESP8266 or an Arduino, or it could be an old computer or a mobile phone.
The Hue dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Dimmer-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539172171&sr=8-2&keywords=hue+dimmer
I have this Hue switch mounted right next to my normal light switch (renting).
Still, why spend $25 when you can spend hours designing and printing something instead?? (Because it's fun is why)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/
They still function like regular light switches. You can control them manually via the wall or remotely.
Note that all ZWave switches that I've seen basically amount to push buttons instead of the typical rocker that most homes use. That is to say, they have a physical switch with both and on and an off, but the switch doesn't physically move to indicate whether it's on or off. They usually have an led built into them that shows this.
If you want to keep your existing switches, check out something like Aeotec's micro-switches: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VWAPU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. You install these behind your existing wall switches. Once you do that, your existing switches continue to work the same as before, and you can control them remotely.
This would do it: http://amzn.com/B00JWVNH4Y
And so would this: http://amzn.com/B008VWAPU4
I have a similar situation. I'm in a house built in 1955 and in the process of replacing switches with a Lutron setup.
One thing I wanted to be clear on is what you mention about a lack of neutral wires. From my understanding (and granted, I'm not an electrician, but have done my fair share of wiring jobs around the house), even houses from the 50s would have neutral wires. I'm wondering if you've confused ground wires with neutral wires. Neutrals are usually white wires while grounds are usually green or bare copper. Again, I know this as I'm in the exact situation. My house has no ground wires in most locations, but neutrals are everywhere as expected.
I only have one switch in the house the controls an outlet, but here's now I tackled it.
This has actually worked out great, as it means we have an extra outlet in the living room for plugging in things like our laptops, but we still have a switch in the wall for the lamps.
Why would you build something when for $9 bucks you can get one that's UL approved and won't look like absolute shit?
You want to go one notch higher? Get the Caseta version and do it wirelessly.
Closest thing I have seen is z wave based. Lutron makes a plug that you can get a remote with.
Edit: link; Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer and Remote Kit, P-PKG1P-WH, White, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OeJbBb7389Z6A
Honestly, your cheapest options are to get an actual Zwave repeater or just about any plug-in Zwave device (here's a cheap smart plug).
Alternatively, you can replace any one of those switches with a zwave switch, and upgrade the rest later, as budget allows.
Lutron makes some of the best dimmers out there. Can't hurt to try a current spec Maestro 153 digital dimmer made for LEDs. I've put about 10 of these in recently and they've worked with cheapie Commerical Electric LEDs from home depot (NEVER EVER BUY THOSE LEDS, BTW), Lithonia, GE, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MACL-153M-WH-Maestro-150-Watt-Multi-Location/dp/B008X3CHM0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1466452719&sr=1-1&keywords=maestro+153
If those bulbs don't work with that dimmer, they are pretty crappy as Lutron is pretty much where it's at for non-home automation switchgear. Home Depot will take back an open dimmer if you don't like it, so it's pretty low risk.
Also, if you get the Maestro, it has all kinds of programming ability that is not talked about in the basic installation guide in the package. You can set max brightness, min brightness (useful if the LEDs blink at low power), fade on time, fade off time, etc.
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/048459.pdf
That particular box is a low/high voltage box. The left side is open for low voltage wiring and the right side is for high voltage wiring (hence why it is enclosed. Mr_Norwall is correct... it is probably just a control line for an ignition system in the fireplace 'controller'. The green would be the ground (so it doesn't float) and the red/white would be the line to start the fireplace.
Another solution you might want to check out is an in-wall module or a dry-contact relay. Such examples are:
https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-1&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW097-Contact/dp/B0155HSUUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-2&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-4&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact
Some dry contact modules will still require 120v to be added though. The Aeon Labs, for instance, just runs on a coin cell I think.
edit: adding product links
I have one setup, really hasn't been a problem. The Fireplace is fairly new and has it's own built in safety measures. Worst case scenario you end up with a situation similar to you turning it on via the wall switch and leaving without turning it off, aka you forgot. A properly functioning gas fireplace shouldn't be an inherent safety risk on its own. I've never had it accidentally turn itself on and I monitor what devices are on when nobody is home in the house. Would be trivial to configure a notification to be sent to your phone whenever it is on and you are not home.
I used this Zwave dry contact switch but it doesn't look like it's available anymore. It is hidden underneath the fireplace, but you could get one that replaces the switch in the wall.
I don't really automate anything with it except triggering it to turn off when we leave or turn off with a Bedtime switch. I've been kicking around the idea of a timer, so only letting it run for say 2 hours before shutting itself off. You can check out the whole setup here
Lutron makes their caseta wireless switches that come with the pico remote, or you can buy them separate. You can even mount the remote in a switch box to make it look like a real second switch.
The switch and remote work by themselves without a hub, but a hub can be added later for more control.
Technically it's not z wave, it's lutron clear connect, but it works with the wink hub, or you can buy the lutron smart bridge, and then get it to work with Vera or smartthings.
Yep. I have a Luton
MaestroCaseta with the pico remote and it let me adjust the dimming range to where it goes smoothly to almost completely off. That's with Cree bulbs.Edit: I just checked and mine is actually a Caseta, not a Maestro. Here's the link.
Lutron Caseta... replaces traditional switch, supports standard light bulbs.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481198595&sr=8-1&keywords=caseta+lutron
Here's a z-wave switch to control the heater. Check out the reviews for how people use it. I happened to stumble on this giant switch the other day.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting and Appliance Control, 40 Amp, Large Load, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor, For Pool Pumps, Hot Water Heaters, Landscape Lighting, and Other Large Appliances, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12726
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KccUzbDE8D5R2
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
These are awesome. You just pair these to the hub and the bulbs you want to control, and wire nut the lights to be hot 24/7. These fit in a regular decora faceplate; its the best solution I've found so far that solves the smart bulb/dumb switch issue. Plus, these match with Lutron Caseta's smart switch line for lights that aren't hue.
The hue remotes come with wall mounting plates. Even if you don't screw them into the wall, you can still find another way to attach them. The remote attaches to the plate via magnets. They're also the same size as a normal outlet, so will fit nicely next to any light switches you have.
Here is a link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0167Z0P3I/
Edit: huh, looks like he ESP have dropped in price since I've last messed with them. Maybe it's a value pack of Chinese knockoffs though.
I use the Sylvania Zigbee switch, but it doesn't fit in a deco, but rather on top of.
Many companies do this before Black Friday. They will raise it to its "normal" price and then on Black Friday it is back on "sale".
I have noticed other items on Amazon doing this too. For example: https://camelcamelcamel.com/Sylvania-Smart-Home-72922-LIGHTIFY/product/B01M6UM8QD?context=search
They were $14.99 and just before Black Friday and now the price is back up. I expect the price to drop to $14.99 again during Black Friday.
As far as I know there's no smart bulb that hits anywhere near 1500 lumens. I'd recommend keeping her current bulbs (or picking up some 1500 lm/5000k LED bulbs) and getting smart switches/dimmers.
Good morning /u/EFaden and congrats on the new house!
I'm not sure what HUB you have but there are a couple options if you want to keep the standard in-wall switch, but use scenes to automate things.
Disclaimer: I'm associated with Inovelli, so please keep that in mind. However, I'll lay out all the options that I know of since the scene switches are a passion of mine since they can do so much
On that note, there's a few brands that I'm aware of that have the scene functionality built into a normal in-wall switch and they are: GE, ZWP, HomeSeer, and ourselves.
GE, I believe has a double tap feature in their new Z-Wave Plus switches, but I just have their old ones in my house (which have been great) so I can't confirm, but I've seen posts about it.
HomeSeer was actually one of the first, if not the first companies to come out with this and I personally have one of their switches in my house as well and it's been rock solid. You can add up to I believe 10 scenes to it by single/double/triple/4x/5x tapping the switch (top and bottom). There's a specific device handler for it if you're on SmartThings.
ZWP, I don't really know much about, I just saw they had a scene switch too.
As for Inovelli, we're really proud of the work our guys put into the firmware this time and I'll highlight some of the features below:
As I said above, not sure what HUB you have, but we wrote device handlers for SmartThings and Drivers for Hubitat, but if you don't have those, the settings above can all be done via parameters (except for the dimming based on time of day, let me check with our VP of Tech)
Anyway, I hope that helped a bit. You can't go wrong with any of those brands. They're all unique in their own way and if you're thinking about Z-Wave, then they are some very reputable brands.
Have a great day and if you have any questions, feel free to reach out!
Eric
Founder | Inovelli
HomeSeer: (they have quite a few, so just type in, "HomeSeer Z-Wave Plus Switch" and they should all come up. I'm going to put the couple I know work with ST)
ZWP:
Inovelli
Lutron Caseta Dimmer does not use a Neutral. On sale today as well.
Amazon Link
The consumer Smart Bridge works with Home Assistant after you use a couple Python scripts to get some key values and cert files.https://www.home-assistant.io/components/lutron_caseta/
I have 2 of the Caseta switches, a bunch of Hue Bulbs, and Leviton Z-Wave in wall dimmers. I like them all honestly and haven't had any problems so far.
I think the Hue Bulbs produce the widest range of dim light. I have "dimmable" LED bulbs where I have the in-wall smart switches installed and the lowest dim level is still pretty bright compared to the dimmest setting on a hue bulb. To get better dimming you have to buy the better LED bulbs which can run $9 plus depending on what you get, in which case you're approaching Hue Bulb pricing.
Lutron Caséta
Works with Alexa, Google Home, Siri/Apple Homekit.
You can pickup a starter kits as well.
I believe your problem is that you have Smart bulbs connected to a smart switch. If the smart switch is off then the smart bulbs wouldn't work. I would think your bulbs would still connect to wink as long as the power is on. Since they're both dimmable you probably should use the Lutron Casetta On/Off Switch rather than the dimmer.
You may also be able to pair the light with a connected bulb switch that can be wall mounted next to the regular switch using this Lutron Pico Wallplate Bracket and a 2 gang wallplate.
Just ordered 2 of these, they arrive tommorow so i'm going to see how they work but I ordered them for basically purpose you're asking about
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014STZASK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote will do what you want; it's what I use for this exact purpose. You can directly pair it to one or multiple bulbs.
iConnectHue also let's you really customize the Hue remote. You can definitely set it up to control specific lights in a room. I have 8 lights in a room, the first press turns on 1 light, the 2nd press turns on 2 more, and the third press turns on the remaining 6 lights.
I've been using the Lutron Connected Bulb Remote. They work great:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014STZASK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
From one of the Amazon reviews, here's the pairing instructions:
You can use Hue instead of the TP-Link smart plug. and put a hue bulb in the lamp and use one of these switches.
I recommend smart switches vs smart bulbs. It keeps the traditional control plus avoids having to stick secondary Philips switches(or similar) next to the "real"ones with child covers on the "real" switch so people don't turn off the circuit. The only time I would use smart bulbs is for something like a table lamp that has no wall switch or for renters.
Most people seem to use smart things as a dumb hub. Other options include the Hue and Lightify gateway, both of which are zigbee.
I use a lightify gateway, but haven't left the lightify ecosystem yet so not sure how well it works with other devices. I got into lightify originally because I really like these switches that can be stand alone or cover your normal light switch, and the tunable white bulbs are only $25 Amazon.
Edit: Relevant thread on the forums: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/z-wave-zigbee-usb-stick/8232/8
Yup, eagerly awaiting that enhancement too!
My ideal Hue-compatible smart-switch -- which AFAIK doesn't exist -- would be hard-wired so it could control load to the fixture as a backup, but normal operation would just send Zigbee signals for smart control.
Along those lines, I've heard of some folks using this product, which is battery-powered and fits over the top of a conventional wall-switch. So that prevents people in your household from accidentally toggling the wall-switch (but it can still be accessed on the rare occasions where it's needed.) But I personally don't care for the aesthetics of a big bulging remote on the wall. Also, I don't think that Sylvania product is directly compatible with the Hue hub; you'd need some other automation solution (SmartThings, HomeKit, etc.) to bridge those systems.
I use one of these through smarthings works great. Sylvania Smart Home 73743 Lightify Smart Dimming Switch, Dimmer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3gW4Cb02M57JK
For the outlet, try the Sylvania Smart Home plug: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mFh9BbDQ3RJ4N
Do you use SmartThings? I ran into the same scenario with as you with the freezer/garage GFCI. I run this automation to ping a zigbee outlet to make sure it is running.
Sylvania Smart Home 72922 Sylvania LIGHTIFY Smart Plug, 1 Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1me5CbY46XR1S
https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-device-monitor-get-notified-if-devices-stop-reporting/41141
This Zigbee switch should be compatible with the Hue bridge, but I can’t personally vouch for that as I don’t own any of these.
Here’s a helpful Amazon review for it, “After experimenting with adding this plug to my Philips Hue system, I finally figured out how to add it without any trouble. I held down the power button while inserting the plug into a wall socket. I kept the button held down for about 6 seconds and then heard a ‘click’ sound. I was then able to find the light with the iConnectHue app’s ‘Search’ feature. It could probably also be found this way with the Philips app, but I didn’t try that.”
I use Smartthings and really like it. You can find the hubs for less than $80 if patient and looking around. Ya that may seam like a lot but using the switch you picked out at $80 x 3 for a cost of $240 while Smarthings plus either these Leviton or these [GE] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=psdc_507840_t4_B01N4F487U) will end up being cheaper if you buy 3 or more. Z-wave is designed for exactly this, home automation stuff so I really prefer to use that over WiFi devices.
I don't have any switches at the moment, only Hue but I will be getting some eventually. For a Hub you have two real options if you are really new and not super techy, Wink and SmartThings. Both have different strengths. I've never used Wink but that seams to be a bit more user friendly, however Smartthings is by no means difficult and it has a very helpful community and is more customization. Someone will probably take issue with this but I liken Wink to IOS (cleaner UI, a bit smoother, just works) and Smartthings to Android (much more custimizable)
Smart switches are the best replacement because it leaves everything the way every other house is built, but adds smart functionality. If you install smart bulbs, they are controlled from two different sources - the light switch, and your phone. Want to turn the light on but someone flipped the switch? You must get up to manually flip the switch, then control the light bulb.
Smart bulbs are only good if you live in an apartment complex, need RGB bulbs, or want to change color temperature. Overall, the smart switch is the best thing to use because it only adds functionality, not take any away. I personally use a technology called Z-Wave which creates a strong mesh network in your house. Z-Wave doesn't rely on internet, which means if your internet goes down they continue to function. A large portion of WiFi devices require you to have internet as well, which is a huge downfall of home automation relying on WiFi.
I have a couple of these, a Vision Relay that i've installed to keep my original switches, and a few other z-wave outlets around.
I'm using the Cree 60W Equivalent Soft White bulbs in my overhead kitchen lights that have these GE dimmers. I have no buzz at all.
These ge switches/dimmers are awesome and will work directly with smart Things, so no need for stupid additional controllers: https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C
With smart zwave switches you can use regular LEDs or bulbs for all of your lights.
Hey /u/Mercury357 !
Sorry I can't offer much advice when it comes to Inovelli or Zooz, but I'm sure you'll get a great response from some of the other members here.
I can however, relay that the GE Switches are on sale right now on Amazon for $30.99 and the GE Dimmers are on sale for $32.99
Our Add-On switches work great for 3 and 4-way setups as well, those run $19.50 right now
If you have any questions about GE product, feel free to ask. :)
I went with these GE dimmers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/
stick a pico remote to the wall and you'll get 5 buttons you can use to pass into Home assistant. then an IR/RF emitter to send commands to the fan from Home assistant. if you're already thinking about getting hue, you could get their remote and stick it to the wall.
If there's no switch on the wall then the fixture must be wired to always be on, or maybe there's a switch/relay in the breaker box itself, so smart bulbs could be a good fit. you'll still need an IR/RF emitter to control the fan though.
Philips Hue has wireless dimmer switches. They don't replace the switch, but you leave the physical switch on at all times, and put this nearby / on top. They control Hue smart bulbs.
I actually had this happen over the weekend and found out my dimmer switch worked regardless of my internet being back up. It's now become my 'kill all' switch for when the power goes out.
I would get a Lutron Dimmer Switch & Remote Kit (or the Lutron Dimmer Switch Starter Kit if it is your first Lutron purchase).
It is $60 (or $100 for the starter kit), but it is the best HomeKit lighting control system you can get.
You would replace the (presumably) upstairs switch with the Lutron Dimmer, and then use the Lutron Pico Remote in the basement.
I know it is more expensive and somewhat more complicated than what you asked for, but you won't be sorry with the Lutron products.
Specifically, this kit of you want a standalone solution for this one room: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6L48C/
Or this kit if you want it to be connected to the internet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5V6M6G/
z-wave.
You could do it one of a couple of ways. Both ways would have you installing a z-wave light switch to replace your existing one, soemething like
http://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Switch/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414373746&sr=1-1&keywords=z-wave+light+switch
Then you could either get a lamp modules for the lights, like this
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0013V6S0Q
but that would add a lot of bulk to your setup, so instead i would probably look at replacing your power outlet iwth a zwave outlet like
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414373786&sr=1-1&keywords=z-wave+outlet
So once you pair the switch and the outlet, when you pressed the switch it would not only power on your existing lights, but also turn on/off the top receptacle of the outlet as well
Well the best I could find was this: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Receptacle-12721/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1542927191&sr=8-37&keywords=smart+outdoor+outlet
Which is not specifically for outdoors. I think probably the reason that there are not outdoor rated in gang box receptacles is that the electrical code for different areas could really make it hard to make a device that will fit them all.
Part of the problem is that a smart socket has to have power all the time (be it from a battery or from the AC) so there could be real issues with installing it properly.
If you decide to go ahead and do it this way, please consult with an electrician or your local governing authority to make sure you are following code. If you are not and there's a fire, it could go poorly for you.
There are a lot of options out there for basic home automation. None are particularly cheap, but also not outrageously expensive. As a thought, if I were going to set this up in my place, using what I have in place:
SmartThings Hub
z-wave compatible outlet
z-wave compatible door sensor
Have the outlet turn on every time the door sensor closes and turn off when it opens.
As an alternative, you could use a motion sensor in the room, but some people may find that a bit creepy.
You can definitely get outlets and various sensors cheaper in other places, such as monoprice.
No, just a few simple parts.
Tape
Power Supply
Connectors (Technically optional, you can solder the cut ends of the tape. But this is much easier.
Magnetic Switch
Dimmer (Optional)
You'll also need basic wire nuts and spare wire.
I had 3/4" thick shelves with 1 1/4" MDF trim fronstpieces. Then I cut a small 45-degree piece to fit hidden behind the front trim. The tape then goes on that 45-degree piece so it's pointing down and back. I hope that makes sense.
Ah! But they do! Beautifully! This is the one I use.
I made some battery powered video lights with the same type of LED ribbon. Have two different LED color temps on each light, both temps are set on separate dimmers. Lots of control.
Connecting to the 12v in the control box is very easy. I would do that, and possibly wire in one of these: http://amzn.com/B003L4KKF2
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4
or for dimmer :
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC27103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31seJADBH5L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0328RRAJWFQ5PZM7CJGB
Virtually all smart switches require a neutral (typically a white wire). Some dimmers only require 3 connections (live, load, and ground).
Smart bulbs are the easiest solution, but the most expensive (and annoying) in the long term (if the switch is off you can't control the light from other devices)
For using smart switches running an additional wire from the switch box to the neutral bus in the breaker box is an option but is usually the most labor intensive option. For other options you need to identify how the switches were wired. There are 3 common ways:
Hopefully that helps.
SmartThings and Alex work very well together. Not to mention SmartThings automation is second to none as far as I have experienced with other hubs. This prevents you from having all those apps as you mentioned. All you have to do is add zwave or zigbee devices to your hub and you can control them from one place.
In your case, especially with the outside lights, I would just install one of these Aeontec microswitches. They come in dimmers too. You can hide them in the walls and your switches still work just as they did before, with the exception that you can now control them wirelessly. Just be sure to watch your draw. A lot of outdoor flood lights might be too much wattage for them. I installed a Lutron Caseta switch and hub for my father and quickly brushed up against the 650 Watt limit of those switches with all his outdoor flood lights. I'll be honest I don't know the limit of these switches and I can't find it on Aeontec's website, but you should be fine bellow 700 watts per switch.
With SmartThings you can set up timers for devices, link them to motion detectors, and even check on their power consumption if you have the right kind of switch.
I think this is the link for the lazy. (not affiliate) https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485595831&sr=8-2&keywords=remote+dry+contact
You have a lot of options. Easiest would probably go with a hub like a Samsung SmartThings hub and get zwave door/window sensors.
For the garage door you could use the GoControl outfit kit https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU
The fireplace gets a bit tricky depending on how the control is. Most newer homes with gas logs are on a milivolt system, meaning the switch on the wall that opens the gas valve doesnt actually have power, its just a signal wire. For this case you need to get power to that switch location which could be as easy as tapping into the lines of an adjacent switch. You need a Zwave dry contact swtich. https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI
I just added a generic Z-Wave relay in parallel with the original wired button.
It probably depends on the model of your gas fireplace but for mine it was fairly easy. I used a Remotec Z-Wave Dry Contact Fixture Module. It's showing unavailable on Amazon right now so not sure where else you could get it. You will also need a generic Lamp Cord to power the dry contact. I didn't do anything to the wall switch.
Basically, the wall switch has 2 low voltage wires coming from it and going under the fireplace. You cut these wires under the fireplace and you connect them to the dry contact. Essentially you now have 2 coming in from the switch and 2 going out to the fireplace. Then you connect the lamp cord to power portion of the dry contact and then plug it into the outlet under the fireplace (Not sure how you would do this without an outlet under there so I'd check for that first). That's it! The wall switch still works like normal and now you can control it like any other Z-Wave switch through an app or with voice. I'm not aware of anything similar that works over Wifi instead if you don't have a hub.
As for safety, it's probably safer now that I can track and disable it remotely. You can also set up automations to turn it off or notify you if left on for too long. You aren't touching any gas lines and the wires you are touching are all low voltage, I don't see why people consider this dangerous.
Aeotech makes the micro dimmer and newer nano dimmer that do the same thing, but using the zwave protocol.
I can't speak to the specific GE switch you have, but for my 3-way switches at home I used the Lutron Caseta switch w/ the add-on remotes.
They have worked for about a year now with zero issues. The nice part about the remote is it takes up no space in the box. The remote is battery powered (haven't had to replace any yet) and can legitimately be mounted anywhere you think is convenient.
Is this the one you have? Do you have LED lights hooked up to any of them? What Hub are you using?
An alternative would be to use a Lutron dimmer wifi switch that doesnt required a nuetral. Link
I have a few of these and they work great!
Confirmed. The switch is wired to the load and the remote is wall mounted acting as your second switch. I have this arrangement in both the kitchen and the living room and it works wonderfully.
Switch
Wall Plate
Lutron caseta is much simpler than it looks at first. You will need the wireless switch and the wall plate hat matches the number of switches in a location (e.g. a 5-switch install needs 5 switches and 1 5-gang wall plate).
For most people, the switch you want is
LUTRON P-PKG1W-WH Caseta Wireless 600-watt/150-watt Multi-Location In-Wall Dimmer with Pico Remote Control Kit, White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O2YRybNK0JMVR
The single gang wall plate is:
Lutron CW-1-WH 1-Gang Claro Wall Plate (1 Pack), White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MAW4XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F5YRyb2VD4WGE
And you will need one bridge (you can get a bundle of 2 dimmers, 2 picos, and a bridge but that bridge isn't the pro model which you may not need, I got it just in case, but I'm not using any of the additional integration capabilities):
Lutron L-BDGPRO-WH - Smart Bridge Pro
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z8AXQCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N-YRyb1VWE0P8
You can also get a plug in dimmer for Lamps which acts as a range extender, and the non-dimmer switch for other devices such as potentially a ceiling fan or lights that just don't need dimming.
Hope that helps!
Three hardware solutions that I know of:
(This links to your smartphone via BTLE.)
More info [here.] (http://flic.io)
(This also links to your smartphone via BTLE.)
More info [here.] (http://www.satechi.net/index.php/satechi-bluetooth-button-series-media-button)
Lutron Caseta will take care of that for you. Bonus: you can plug two lamps in to one, however they can't be independently controlled.
If you end up getting a hub then you can use your iPhone, or Alexa, amongst other devices to control them, however I wouldn't bother with the hub unless you expanded the switches to multiple areas of your house...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY1QG0/
The Lutron Lamp Dimmer doesn’t cover both outlets. See photos here: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1P-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY1QG0
Generally speaking, it's not recommended to put a dimmer on an outlet. Lutron has on/off switches, but they also require a neutral.
But you may be over thinking it. You can just do this and then get the "switch" wall mount for the remote.
Edit: I didn't fully read your post. You can program any of the Lutron remotes to control multiple Lutron lights. Mounting one and having it control multiple I think is the best solution.
A Caseta plug-in lamp dimmer along with a wireless remote can do this. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1P-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY1QG0
You can mount the remote on the wall using the wall mount kit (not included with the kit above, but should be pretty easy to find). If you no longer use the switch that you’re trying to replace, you could remove that switch, tie the wires together to make that receptacle always on, then mount this wireless remote right on top of the old switch location.
You just set up the lamp dimmer as you would normally. The extender functionality is automatically activated.
You can see which device, if any, is acting as an extender in the Lutron app. Open the app, and tap the gear icon in the top-left corner to open Settings. Then, tap on "Advanced". Choose "Range Extender". If one of your lamp dimmers is acting as a range extender, then it will show up there.
If you want to change which device is an extender, you have to remove the existing device acting as current extender from your Lutron app and then re-add it. (So it might be easier to just physically swap the lamp dimmers in your home and then change their assigned rooms, scenes, and triggers in Lutron and HomeKit).
It's worth emphasizing that only the lamp dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Dimmer-P-PKG1P-WH/dp/B00JJY1QG0) can act as an extender. None of the in-wall dimmers or switches are capable of acting as extenders.
(edit: corrected "set it" to "set up" in the first sentence)
The cheapest way is to purchase a Caseta starter kit. It'll include a dimmer for a light and bridge. The bridge adds easily to HK. It was one of the first (and IMHO one of the best) HK integrations.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=pd_cp_60_2?pd_rd_w=1Cc2X&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=11WQJXBMVDNVY35FZZ8T&pd_rd_r=5bc69812-c3b0-40eb-9ff8-ecfefccc9026&pd_rd_wg=hEiyD&pd_rd_i=B00MXCRAX8&psc=1&refRID=11WQJXBMVDNVY35FZZ8T
The Lutron Caseta switches don't require a neutral. They are Alexa, Harmony Hub, and Apple HomeKit compatible. They also work with IFTTT. They do have their own hub but they are rock solid. They are by far the most reliable bit of smart home tech that I have (even more so than Hue). Pricey but worth it. They are more buttons than switches but I like the way they look.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MXCRAX8/ref=psdcma_507840_t1_B00JJY0S4G#
The standard dimmer includes a remote that can easily replace a three-way switch. They are super versatile (LED, CFL, or incandescent) and work with Lutrons really expensive blinds if you have that kind of money :)
It sort of depends on how you want to control it. I don't use HomeKit so I can't offer much assistance there.
Here's a Z-Wave appliance module.
https://shop.homeseer.com/products/homeseer-hs-pa100-z-wave-plus-wireless-appliance-module
There's also this 40A badboy. :D
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Direct-Wire-Appliances-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1
Something like this may work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0
GE makes a 40-amp z-wave switch/contactor that could work as well https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0
Easiest solution would be to install a simple toggle switch. You can do this at your equipment pad. Cut the wire feeding the device and install the switch in between this connection. I'm assuming it's 240v? If so, just use a switch like this as long as you have a 30amp or smaller breaker.
If it's outdoors, just grab a weatherproof junction box like this and a cover. Might have to get creative with the conduit run (assuming outside), but should be no big deal if you're handy.
The line feeding my pool equipment has a toggle switch like that. The line comes from the breaker into a toggle, then out to a timer that controls my pump and salt cell.
You could also install a timer instead of a switch if you wanted. They even make z-wave ones.
Make sure you use the Enerwave dual z-wave relays, and not the Monoprice ones. The Enerwave relays work great with Wink. Lots of reports of issues with the Monoprice ones. I had one explode inside the gang box
Also, if all you want is for the controlled outlet to be the bottom one, then there are a few choices that work with Wink:
These are cheaper than using the Enerwave z-wave dual relay to make two controlled outlets, although the latter is more useful in many situations.
You are welcome, as far as the camera goes I search on eBay and use the keywords "Vivint ping camera" (I am unsure how to link an auction from my phone. As far as add ons to my system I use 2gig PIR1 Passive Infrared Motion Detector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TZ73C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ng.CzbM9GCJSE for the motion sensor, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wi.Czb8H4K514 for my dimmers, Previous Model: GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1i.CzbBD0V1RF for my ceiling fans, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12721 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lj.CzbQAY9KV4 for my outlets. I have found home automation to be addicting and expensive haha.
The GE one. These have always worked great for me.
If you can stretch your $50 budget to $83, then you can get one smarthings hub and one GE outlet
I did this a couple weeks ago. Easy to set up; works great.
I use the GE lighting module for this purpose: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013V58HU/
It's $35 US (in the US), and it has a Zwave controlled outlet plus a non controlled outlet on it. For an extra 5, there is a Dimmable version as well. It can handle up to 600 watts. I've got two of them in my house now, and they've worked flawlessly for quite a while.
I use a very lite home automation controller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007005364/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1419693424&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
With an appliance module that has a power strip connected to it. Turning the appliance module on and off using the vera plugins for tasker will turn the Chromecast and TV on by activating the power strip which they are plugged into.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013V58HU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1419693510&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Not all TVs work this way. You can test to see if your TV will work by turning the TV on and unplugging it from the wall and plugging it back in. If it turns back on, your TV can do this. If it does not turn back on without you hitting the power button on the TV, you'll have to find another solution.
I plugged mine into this. Works great with my smartthings hub.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Outdoor Module, On/Off, Plug-In, Black, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12720 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V8K3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nlMAoRWuALZw1
What's so bad about an enclosure? Anything you get outdoor and zwave will either be in an enclosure, or will be like this thing: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Outdoor/dp/B0013V8K3O
These can do up to 1800 watts resistive so should work: https://www.amazon.com/GE-45604-Technology-Outdoor-Lighting/dp/B0013V8K3O. Yuo may need to look around to find one though.
Thank you for pointing those string lights out. Not only are they somewhat more cost efficient (at the current price), that product page links to this GE Z-Wave outdoor plug. It says it works with Harmony hub, which I have but I'm still not sure if:
I got this one and it works great so far.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013V8K3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use a GE 12720 which is an outdoor switch that can turn the lights on and off. I got mine from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013V8K3O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00.
The GE product is not in the wink app so go to the power page and use the Leviton Plug-In Appliance Module.
I found this tutorial to be really helpful
https://www.blackwaterskies.co.uk/2013/05/making-your-own-nichrome-dew-heater-bands/
And if you don't know your electrical engineering formulas, this is a god send:
http://www.sengpielaudio.com/FormulaWheelElectronics.gif
For a PWM controller to regulate the heat, something like this would be good:
https://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-LEDwholesalers-Lights-Dimming-Controller/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1549856638&sr=8-7&keywords=pwm+controller+12v
That can handle up to 8 amps, which should be sufficient for a dew heater.
A good place to buy various electrical components (in the US) is https://www.digikey.com/ (you'll find components like that PWM controller and others on it as well). Can be a bit hard to navigate, but has a very powerful search feature.
If you can insulate the dew heater strip, it will let you use less power since the heat is used more efficiently.
They are dimmable so if you found them too bright you could just add a dimmer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Q8V8DM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Lights-Dimming-Controller-Ribbon/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421716999&sr=1-3&keywords=ledwholesalers+dimmer
A misunderstanding. I thought you were asking how I could do that for hours.
I actually bought this one. But it would be fairly simple to build your own with stuff from radio shack. Here is an example of one that looks fairly straightforward and has a BOM.
Edit: The link shows a PWM controller and the one I bought is a pot. Either one works, but the PWM is more efficient.
I guess you could call it DIY, but it was pretty easy. I bought the components from Amazon:
The transformer plugs into the wall and then into the dimmer (I extended the wires using 12v wire I had on hand and butt contectors) then 2 wires out of the dimmer into the strip of lights. The light strip comes with a standard looking DC connector, which I removed and just hard wired it. I also used the entire strip, but it can be cut every two inches at certain points. If you choose to cut the strip, you will need to solder the wires onto the strip. Since I used the entire strip I just used the included wire (after removing the DC connector thing)
Do you have an existing z-wave system at all? If you wanted to do so in the future, and not replace the dimmer, you could wire in an in-line dimmer (assuming the fixtures are dimable) and then put in a wireless switch that is tied to the z-wave modules.
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Edition/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406580706&sr=8-2&keywords=aeotec
http://www.smarthome.com/59373/GE-45631-Z-Wave-Wireless-Keypad-Controller/p.aspx
GE makes a toggle-style switch, which is what I imagine you have in your home: https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Z-Wave-15-amp-Single-Pole-3-way-Wireless-White-Toggle-Indoor-Light-Switch/1000241625
You could also purchase "micro switches" that would go behind your regular ("dumb") switch and add the smart capability: https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4
Given it's an old home, how much renovation you can do? A past home I've owned was heritage listed, so small installations were the most I could achieve - that brought me to Z-Wave (wireless), a hub (Vera at the time), and in-wall micro controllers from Aeotec http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Edition-DSC18103-ZWUS/dp/B008VWAPU4
Micro zwave switch in the gang box for the switch or at the light.
Switch interrupts the "hot" wire to the light.
Put the HA controller on a schedule to be off from bedtime til morning.
Switch will work normally at all other times.
Aeon Labs DSC18103-ZWUS,White,US,AL001 Aeotec Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch, 2nd Edition, White, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2H-Nzb7KB7F84
Perhaps add a USB Z-stick and then use a z-wave based light switch? Or even one of those Aeon Labs z-wave micro smart switches that can go behind your existing dumb switches if your wife doesn't like the look of any other switch.
Look for in-wall micro relays like these. You use your existing switches. You pull the load wire off the existing switch and put it on the relay, then the load from the switch goes into the relay and acts as a trigger.
My wife burnt our counter top in our bathroom. I put in an outlet with this.
I have a controller let me know if it is consuming energy. If it consumes energy for greater than 30 minutes, I turn the outlet off.
SmartThings home automation hub:
https://www.smartthings.com/
This is the module I wired into the box with my doorbell transformer:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VWAPU4/
​
In the SmartThings app on my phone, I can turn devices off and on remotely. Could even schedule a weekly reboot if I wanted to.
I have these with LEDs and their great, you can even program them: Lutron MACL-153M-WH Maestro 150-Watt Multi-Location CFL/LED Digital Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008X3CHM0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_cbWkub03B9HK3
Yup! I don't worry so much now since the LED's use, what, 1/10th to power?
FYI - I got some Lutron Maestro dimmers like these which are very nice. We use them all the time. We had to adjust the levels on the switch to allow proper dimming for the LEDs, but it was easy, just follow the directions.
/u/blueskies95 has your wiring answer but there is no need to give up on the dimmer. This Lutron dimmer will do the trick, and can be coupled with the 18 dollar companion dimmer if you want to use it from both switch locations.
So I have lower profile cans I installed in my ceiling recently. They're probably a max 6" tall. I have these on a Lutron MACL-153M. I too was concerned with using LED bulbs with these digital dimmers. Searching Amazon brought me to the brand Great Eagle and their BR30 bulbs. All I can say is these work so well with this dimmer switch and they dim incredibly low with absolutely no humming or buzzing at all.
Seems like maybe the place to ask this, anyone know how to increase the brightness of one of these? I've gone through the manual, and no matter what I do, the voltage on the output maxes at 110v. Is there no way to "bypass" the dimming?
I think you would have to use a dry contact switch. Like this
But I’m not 100%
As others said, most likely you'd add a z-wave dry contact switch like this one if you have a z-wave hub. That's the best solution I know of and you'd be just side-stepping the current RF function. There's good info in the reviews there about how to actually do this as well.
Use a dry contact switch instead, they have ones that fit induce a regular switch box.
https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI
If you look in the reviews it fits inside a paddle switch cover well.
Here is the guide I used to do this last fall:
http://thedataist.com/off-topic-how-to-automate-your-gas-fireplace/
Here is a link to the relay you will need:
Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NFlDzbMX9NS25
Good luck!
I suspect that's part of it, and it's definitely worth it to me. The signal input is very flexible. I suspect the other part is Z-wave is a proprietary protocol and requires license. Finally, it's not exactly a high-volume device.
I think the mimolite is way more polished than other options. I wish their marketing would have more examples highlighting the possibilities. It can trigger on power loss, it can trigger when voltage is within a certain configurable range, or outside of a certain configurable range, it can use the signal to toggle the relay locally, it can use the signal to control other devices, it can be polled for signal or report on a configurable timed basis.
I have 2 of these, one for my garage door ( http://imgur.com/a/db2tQ ) and one for my doorbell ( http://imgur.com/a/fzUE3 )
Sure, this could have also done this with an AVR and an esp8266 for some awesome franken-MQTT device, but until I can set up a bench, this is much easier and faster to set up... and much easier to recommend.
If you just need a z-wave dry contact relay, there are other less pricey options. These would be great for something like low voltage zoned lighting, a fireplace, or electronic shut-off valve.
http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22
http://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/
An important feature these options lack is a mode for momentary contact, which is handy when interfacing with buttons like a garage door, electric latch, or gate controller.
I did this exact thing with the Remotec Z-Wave relay.
I used this https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_7 because I had it laying around, and it fit nicely (since I was replacing a simple one gang wall switch).
If I was doing it again today from scratch? Well, I went poking around Amazon, and was depressed that I didn't see anything cheaper or demonstrably better. One useful feature of the module I used is that there's a button on the front that will activate the relay if you don't/can't activate it through home automation
Often the fireplace controllers use a low voltage input to turn on the fireplace. You need a meter if you want to know what these wires are. My guess is that one of those wires is 12/24V DC from the controller, and the switch closes the circuit. Green is just ground.
Zwave switches require 120V AC, and send that to the load. I have no idea if code allows this, but if you want a ZWave switch you'd need to borrow AC power from the adjacent box, and use a relay switch similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI
EDIT: Actually, looking at the reviews, the best solution would be to use this relay in the fireplace enclosure, and connect it to the current switch: https://www.amazon.com/review/R2100DM2EPKO7Q/ref=cm_cr_dp_title?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00913ATFI&channel=detail-glance&nodeID=228013&store=hi
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRI1CEK
They also have a newer nano dimmer
What about putting these behind each light fixture? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRI1CEK/ref=s9_simh_gw_g60_i16_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=188KJ4F4SWSHAZZX1WH4&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=5d23eaf6-6278-49c1-b6df-7de0cb9b3a26&pf_rd_i=desktop
I've never seen a bulb like that... You might be able to put an in wall switch inside the junction box where the power comes into the hood. Would require some wiring know-how, so only try this if you're comfortable with that kind of thing.
You don't even need a hub to make that work. Here is the kit you need:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY0S4G/
You'll also want the wall adapter for the remote.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/
The remotes have a 10 year battery life and the battery is easy to change.
I'm a big fan of Lutron. Their in-wall and plug-in dimmers can work without a hub. Then if you eventually decide you want Homekit and other such features, you can easily add in a hub.
In-wall dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G
Plug-in dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0
https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJY0S4G/ref=mp_s_a_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1467694453&sr=8-37&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wireless+light+switch
https://m.canadiantire.ca/#/products/productDetail/0527544P/false/false/false?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=SearchVoice&utm_source=RatingsAndReviews&utm_content=Default&quantity=1
The Lutron Caseta in wall dimmer does not need a neutral connection and can be controlled from a very small RF remote, or from a smart phone using Staples Connect, the Wink hub, or Lutron's own bridge & app.
Full disclosure, I work for Lutron and wrote the software inside that family of dimmers.
So tempted. If this is the right one, the Lutron Caseta Dimmer itself is like $60 at Amazon
I just wish they weren't purging the Wink v1 and gave us a v2 instead.
ninja edit
So it sounds like I'd need to buy this from Amazon...
Then wire the switch itself in place of my current 'line' switch (in the rear entryway which does not have a neutral available), and the remote in the place of the 'load' switch (dining room that does have neutral available), correct? What needs to be done with the wires that will have been formerly used to supply the 'line' switch?
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G
http://www2.meethue.com/en-us/productdetail/philips-hue-dimmer-switch
Put in any light fixture and bulbs you want and use a Lutron Caseta in wall dimmer switch. First light switch is about 100 bucks,
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-BDG-PKG1W-Caseta-Wireless-Selected/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958038&sr=1-3&keywords=lutron+caseta
This includes the Smart hub needed to make it internet accessible.
Each additional switch thereafter is around 50$.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-150-Watt/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_2?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-2&keywords=lutron+caseta
You can also purchase them with remotes for $60
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-1&keywords=lutron+caseta
and you can purchase plug in versions that allow you to control standard lamps and such ($60)
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-7&keywords=lutron+caseta
Lutron Caseta is not only compatible with alexa, ("alexa turn my living room to 50%" "alexa turn off my bed room" "alexa turn my living room to 10%" etc.) it is also fully homekit enabled. ("Hey siri, set my chamber to 2%" ) and utilizing the home app on your iDevice, you can set up schedules and such, for example my bedroom light turns on to 10% 30min before my alarm, and up to 50% 5 minutes before my alarm. This really helps me wake up on time.
Lutron caseta work great. worth the money
https://www.amazon.com/P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505917955&sr=8-2&keywords=lutron+caseta+dimmer
If you have a 3 wire ran from the switch to the fan (white,black,red,ground) you can do some variation of what I did for my Fan/Light rooms.
This for the light control. Also This if you want it to match with the fan switch.
This for the fan control.
If you only have a 2 wire ran from the fan/light to the switch then you would have to do something more along the lines of what u/caddymac suggested.
Hope this helps and if you have anymore questions let us know.
This device wires into one switch. The second switch is a remote control that can either be mounted in a box (no wiring, it's RF) or used like any other remote. I saw it on a This Old House video.
https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Ceiling-P-PKG1W-WH/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1527002725&sr=1-3&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2800162011
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBtFpmDkQus
Is there already existing power wiring for a z-wave switch? If not, you might need to wallmount a battery operated MiniMote or something like that.
If you're not stuck on Z-Wave you might want to look at Lutron's dimmers with their Pico Remote which can be mounted in a low voltage single gang old work bracket and covered with a decora plate for a nice looking wireless install. Same with their connected bulb remote which I'm using for a couple of Cree Connected bulbs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJY0S4G/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=86N3WGD52NQ4GTPN2MDD
You'll find the single gang bracket for the Pico Remote in the related items.
Edit: I realize there are a few Z-Wave battery operated buttons, however if you want something that looks more like a lighting controller, something geared more towards a high WAF, I think the Lutron products are your best bet.
The Lutron Caseta plug-in dimmer might be a good choice. Amazon Link.
I didn't want to (or wasn't ready) to replace ceiling fans, and my light and fan were wired separately, so I opted for the Lutron Caseta in-wall dimmer for the light and the GE smart fan controller for the fan.
This setup works perfectly with Wink and Echo if you ignore Wink sees the fan controller as a light (just name it ceiling fan) and therefore, doesn't understand low, medium, or high (so I say off, 25%, 50%, or 100%).
I'll warn that I was quite happy with my Lutron switches until I saw how sleekly GE incorporated dimming into their Decora-style rocker switch ... which people are more accustomed to. Average Joe walks in, and although the Caseta is clearly labeled, they have a tendency to freak out.
On the other hand, what filthy peasant is still using their hands? ;-)
There are a whole bunch of options available. I just listed 3 below:
https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Wall-Switch-Required-Single/dp/B06Y5G7XPJ/ref=sr_1_5?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1511056280&sr=1-5&keywords=idevices&dpID=41mQiJ8aAOL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/LUTRON-PD-6WCL-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511056299&sr=8-1-spons&ppw=fresh&keywords=lutron%2Bcaseta%2Bdimmer&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW1KD-1BZ-Incandescent-Required-Assistant/dp/B01MS6JDUW/ref=sr_1_9_f_f_it?s=amazonfresh&ie=UTF8&qid=1511056365&sr=1-9&ppw=fresh&keywords=levitron%2Bdimmer%2Bswitch&th=1
Well...yes. I’ve got numerous lutron caseta dinners and they require no neutral.
They linked you to the family of products, but the dimmer in question is this:
Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | for LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6WCL-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2FATDbKD3M7S4
Look into the Lutron Caseta, you can control the lights with the echo.
Lutron P-BDG-PKG1W Caseta Wireless Dimmer Kit with Smart Bridge for Amazon Alexa and Selected Models, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J2ZyybHJ5QBGH
I love a good Home Depot run as much as the next, but also, make sure you aren't getting price-gouged: on Amazon. And you are very welcome. I like to help.
Yes. Z-wave water heater switch.
Are you aware of this product? Not sure if it covers your amperage requirements: https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0?sa-no-redirect=1
Second the smart relay.. here's one on Amazon that is even advertised for pool pumps.. I've had good luck with the GE Zwave receptacles inside my house using a SmartThings hub.
I did a google search with the terms "120v smart plug outdoor" and got this:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12720/dp/B00YTCZZF0?th=1
I've only seen one safe z-wave controlled control for A/C units, which is this guy:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Appliance-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0
You need motor-rated relays to make/break the circuit, which the cheap stuff on the market doesn't have. Its much easier connecting a circuit running lights or even a heater than it is one running a large motor such as the compressor inside an A/C unit. Peak AMP draws are insane.
Lutron Connected Bulb Remote
Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jOkgAbY6SC8AF
You can use this so that they can just hit the switch in their room. I bought mine for 19 so they are a little expensive right now.
The Caseta switch will not control dimming of smart bulbs. It will only control dimming of normal bulbs screwed into lights it switches. Another option is the lamp dimmer which plugs into an outlet and then you plug the lamp into it. Again it will only control a normal bulb. If you’re smart bulbs are zigbee. Lutron makes a wireless pico remote called the connected bulb remote that can be mounted to the wall. That may work for you
Remote:
Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9uobAb02YR3KA
Wall bracket:
Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5vobAbMH0D9B0
Edited with link
I've used these in places where I have smart bulbs
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
Can be used as a handheld remote control, or there is a bracket you can get for like $5 to mount it in an existing box on your wall
Oh look,
$17
Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F4xizbVVSS6K1
I have the same issue so i went with the following:
1 x Lutron Connected Bulb remote
1 x Cree Connected Light bulb
1 x Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket
1 x Lutron Claro Wall Plate
I leave the light permanently "on", and removed the chain. The bulb is controlled by the remote, which i then put on the wall outside the storage closet so it looks just like a normal light switch for the room.
All up, about $50, no wiring needed, looks like it is meant to be there, and best thing, if you end up expanding your Home Automation with a hub, the remote talks to Wink (although Wink are having trouble with the cree connected bulb lately. The remote also works with GE link bulbs, but you need a Wink hub for that to work.
They do make another remote called the connected bulb remote that does what you want. I went through the same thing you did with the pico remote...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014STZASK/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Just bought a few of these at Home Depot: http://amzn.com/B014STZASK
I think theyre exactly what you're looking for. They can control most smart bulbs and are sized like a regular decora switch so you can pop it in the wall and have it look like it's wired in.
Assume you mean THIS and not THIS?
It looks like if you do mean the first one, that is kinda pointless with Alexa. You can create your own scenes and just activate them via voice, not sure why you'd want to press a button to do it.
But, to your question, it looks like you don't need the hub with the Echo Plus
"Echo Plus is a simple way to start your smart home. It has a built-in ZigBee smart home hub, which allows for simple and direct setup of compatible ZigBee lights, locks, plugs, and in-wall switches from brands like Philips Hue, GE, and Yale. No additional hub required."
Edit: Now I am curious by what they mean by "in-wall switches", maybe just plain smart lights still need a hub.
For number 3, you could replace the switch with a Z-wave dimmer switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2
And then get one of several hubs that works with the switch and Echo, like Smartthings for example:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE
That setup might let you use your current bulbs with Alexa without having to swap them all out for Phillips Hue or LIFX. I say "might" because not all dimmable LEDs work well with all dimmer switches. Probably want to buy the switch first without the hub and try it. This setup also has the added benefit over Hue lights of still being able to use the physical switch for dimming without having to add a Hue dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-458141-Hue-Dimmer-Switch/dp/B0167Z0P3I.
Making Hue lights usable by the rest of the family is definitely a concern. You have a couple of easy options:
Depending on your specific needs you'll probably want to use a combination of these things.
The dimmer switches work well, you can press the On button repeatedly to pick between 4 scenes, and then change the brightness of a scene once it is set.
I just started playing with the motion sensor and it's definitely nice to have the lights respond without having to explicitly turn them on and off, but not everything will make sense to be triggered by motion.
I also find myself frequently using Alexa to control the lights. The main consideration here is that you will need to group your lights into rooms and make sure everyone in the family knows what the names of the rooms/lights are. Alexa has the ability to set light brightness, set a specific color, or change to a Hue scene. It's fairly flexible.
Eventually you'll want to get fancy and set up a home automation hub like SmartThings or HomeAssistant to let you bring in devices from multiple ecosystems (Hue, Arlo, etc) and create automation rules to run everything, but for now it sounds like you'd be happy with a few of the Hue accessories to make the lights easier to control. Good news is that Hue is designed to be user-friendly and all of the options I listed will let you do basic control pretty easily. When you outgrow that, you have more advanced options available to you.
Hope it helps, and let us know if you have any specific questions about how to set stuff up.
Hey so I totally agree with you that I wish you could use a regular switch to turn on/off smart bulbs without them disconnecting from the network, so I feel your frustration.
What I've done to get around this (and yes, still sucks, but that's why I've since stopped using smart bulbs on my main lights - I use them in lamps and lights above/around my TV) is use Philips Switches.
They can be found here:
Philips Hue Smart Dimmer Switch with Remote (Installation-Free, Exclusive for Philips Hue Lights) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0167Z0P3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x.OTzbYS7KK2Q
There's no wiring required and I put them next to my normal switches.
An example would be my family room lamps. I just leave them powered on and I put that switch referenced above to turn them on and off and dim.
Still sucks when a babysitter or something manually turns the lamp off, but oh well, I try to let them know beforehand.
Those switches are actually rock solid and have never failed me in 3yrs.
Hopefully this is what you're asking!
>The only caveat to all of this is those damn pesky light switches. If you turn a light off via the switch or someone else does, the whole argument about ease of use goes out the window. The lights don't work if they're powered off via the switch, so no voice commands. You'll get used to it and so will others that you live with. You can also buy smart swtiches or even covers for your switches if you want. I had thought of going one of these routes in the beginning, but my family caught on fairly quickly and now it's just normal to use your voice.
Get a light switch cover and then install one of these bad boys. It's actually a removable remote control, but I just keep it in the housing and it has the same functionality as a light switch (with dimming functionality and pre-progammed scenes). Gives you the convenience of a light switch without the inconvenience of one.
Both my Eufy Tunable SmartBulbs and TP-Link SmartBulbs will do this. The difference is when they are in the OFF state, you need to flip their corresponding switch off and then back on; at this point they return to a default ON state and a dimmer knob will adjust the brightness.
EDIT: If you’re sold on going the dinner switch method, you’ll probably need to go with something like this but it requires a hub to work with Alexa/GHome.
The dimmer is pretty pricey and specifically made for Hue lights.
The other product, I've gotten for half-price what it is on Amazon right now. It won't connect to the Hue bridge though so I have it connected through Smartthings to control my Hue lights.
Then Lightify is the only option really, but it does require a hub as well. The link below should be the one.
https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y
I'm totally new to this; setting up my Wink Hub 2 / Sengled Lights today, and only have a few WiFi based outlets / lights right now.
But, here's what I'm looking at to control Zigbee lights that are in a lamp on a "dumb outlet"... SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY ZigBee 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch, Works with SmartThings, Wink, or Echo Plus, etc.
For Z-Wave, I found this: NanoMote that seems the most straight-forward or "simple".
Here's a few others I came across as well, https://www.zwaveproducts.com/shop/controllers/z-wave-remotes.
Might see if there's a popular controller among this community though!
I use the Sylvania Lightify Dimming Switch. It works with SmartThings and Zigbee bulbs.
https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y
Can you pair 3rd party zigbee bulbs to your existing hue setup and use remotes for that? This guy did it but no mention of remotes:
www.howtogeek.com/216811/how-to-add-third-party-smart-bulbs-to-your-philips-hue-system/amp/
you are basically asking for smart switch functionality without installing smart switches which is a tough ask at that price point. You could try this: https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y
Smart switches are probably the best in MOST situations.
The reasons to go with a bulb (In my opinion) are:
If you do go with bulb there are some ways to get around some of the problems of the switch behavior with smart bulbs:
I asked a question recently about switches to use with Hue bulbs here
You'll want just a scene controller.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GLtSAb8MTNX3E
Otherwise you'll be controlling the fan which might burn the motor.
Maybe something like this
https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y
Easiest first thing to do is add a Google Home (or Alexa but sounds like you’re in the Google ecosystem). This gives voice control to anyone in the house. Next I would consider adding some physical switches for the bulbs - you’ll probably need a hub like SmartThings unless you’re willing to wire them in because all the WiFi switches need power. Here is a wireless example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9w5Xzb56QC5K0
Definitely can't mix any smarttlights with a dimmer switch. To dim them, you should use the app or their battery powered switch: http://amzn.com/B0196M620Y
It’s also possible to do with a zigbee plug such as
Sylvania Smart Home 72922 Sylvania LIGHTIFY Smart Plug, 1 Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mFh9BbDQ3RJ4N
It shows up as a light on the Philips hue bridge.
I don't know the Wink system, but I use Smartthings which is similar. You should be able to pick up a compatible z-wave/zigbee plug, or outlet and a zwave/zigbee button and set up your hub to trigger the outlets when the button is pushed. I use a Samsung motion detector in my kitchen to trigger the lights on/off automatically and it works pretty well. I haven't used the Sylvania stuff, but it looks like it should do the job.
https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-Smart-Home-72922-LIGHTIFY/dp/B01M6UM8QD
https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-General-Lighting-E21266-Lightify/dp/B01LXPGXQ1/
https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-Smart-Home-74099-Functions/dp/B01M3OK6J7
Apparently the osram lightify stuff is branded as "sylvania" for US.
Amazon link
This should be the same but for 120V US outlets.
Cheapest I've found as of yet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6UM8QD/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1DXN92KCKEQV4&psc=1
This "SYLVANIA Smart+ Indoor Plug" works with Hue for me in the USA.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6UM8QD
For those interested in the same switch, but is also a dimmer.... Amazon has them at an all-time-low of $30.09. (Normally $44.00)
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14294/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542909353&sr=8-3&keywords=ge+zwave+dimmer
Yes. You can name the switches and control them by individual switch or control the entire room.
I use these: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01MUCZA1C/
Zooz is the cheapest option as it lets you keep one of the 'dumb' switches. Problem is, the smart switch will always be up = on, down = off, while the dumb switch will alternate. If that doesn't bother you, they have cheap switches that function well. They're Z-wave btw.
Outside of that I have had zero issues with the GE Enbrighten (Z-wave and Z-wave plus versions) switches and dimmers. They're not the cheapest switch on the market and require a $20 'add-on' switch. But they function well.
Note: the 1st gen version of the GE switches are on sale at Amazon for $32. It's a good deal. It's not Z-wave plus, and there are some advanced features it lacks (double tap), but I have several sets and no issues.
Edit: scratch that, the ones labeled "1st gen" are what I'd consider 2nd, and they are Z-wave Plus. I'm not sure what the Second Gen (46203) is. Looks like just a shallower depth and some "quickwire" thing. People are also complaining about it not dimming LEDs. Stick with the "1st" gen 14294, it's a good dimmer and great price. Just picked up 3 more.
Edit 2: There's a combo pack with a 2nd gen dimmer and add-on for $47, which is damn good. Good enough it's worth looking into the new dimmer.
This one (Belkin WEMO) is WiFi and works with Alexa.
This one (GE Z-Wave) is Z-Wave and works with Alexa.
I'm a big fan of the GE wall switches. Dimmer Rocker Model
If you are eventually going to get more home automation products, than I’d suggest getting a Smartthings hub, and some [GE smart dimmers](https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0QQMBN11VJPV61HY9D3P
). This is what I have and it works fine with my Harmony remote.
zwave
zigbee
I've only dipped my toe in HA myself. I have one of these that works quite reliably in conjunction with an Echo and a Wink hub:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C
Note that this is a dimmer; you may/probably want just a simple switch, but GE has one of those, too.
There are also WiFi switches that don't require a hub if you don't want the hub.
And the 14294 Dimmer switches for $30.09
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/
The Z-Wave system is designed for interoperability, with management by a local hub that reaches out to the cloud as necessary. Hence there are many manufacturers, competitive pricing, interchangeable components, flexible control modalities. Also, a huge range of sensors, modules, controllers, locks, remote controls, and thermostats in addition to switches.
Wi-Fi smart devices are focused on ease of installation. Without standardized interfaces, the only way to offer remote control is through cloud management. Configuration and automation could be provided through a switch-hosted web server, but since the whole point is remote control and Echo/GH integration - and since the manufacturer has an eye on your data and your possible future income stream - the cloud solution wins. Wi-Fi power requirements means that in general these devices must be hardwired.
Non-cloud Kasa support requires an always-on computer running node.js, with manual device installation and static IP addresses everywhere. This is only an issue if TP-Link abandons the product or starts charging, in which case you have to decide whether it's worth the hassle...
I have a bunch of GE/Jasco switches and dimmers and one each of Leviton and Evolve - and also door/window sensors, motion sensors, thermostat, door lock, lamp modules, remotes, wall controllers, and garage door sensor.
The switches are all pretty much indistinguishable. GE/Jasco and HomeSeer 3-ways require a proprietary companion switch but you can dim from the companion and up always=on, down=off. Zooz and Inovelli 3-ways use your existing remote switch but no remote dimming and remote setting is random.
Mostly a gimmick. A fun gimmick, but a gimmick nonetheless. It really depends on what your budget is. Is approx $20/bulb worth it for a novelty? For me, it was in a few places, but I probably wouldn't do it again. The temperature thing is now a must after having the color and the ambient. I hope to never go back to a single temp bulb again. That's worth $15 premium of the ambient over the cheap white ones.
Get the dimmer switches. 100% worth the money. Then put these guards over your current switches.
Philips Hue sells switches that are wireless. Can screw them onto the wall or use the included adhesive. I currently use one for a setup in my kitchen. Requires a Hue hub and a hue light, but might be a good solution.Amazon link
Had this same situation. The best solution for me was to buy a Philips Hue LED bulb and this switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xDFoDbRMBEXX5
This way I can leave my spotlight motion detector powered so it works when it's supposed to, but I can turn the porch light on and off as I want to and don't have to leave it on all the time.
Caseta makes a great product, I use them everywhere - both the smart dimmers, and switches, and also use their non-smart motion sensing switches.
Having said that, you can't use voltage switches with smart bulbs!
At least not the current generation, and since they need to maintain state non likely in the future unless the add non-volatile storage and that will get expensive.
You need to use a "virtual switch" of some type, one that basically sends data commands to the bulbs like your phone does. I have about 30 smart bulbs in my place and so believe me it's a sore spot.
The good news for you is that since you have Hue bulbs (too expensive for the number I wanted), you can use the Hue Dimmer Switch which is designed just for this purpose:
No wiring needed, just paste it to a wall somewhere and connect to your hue hub.
I use a combination of the Brilliant Switch and the SmartThings controller to kind of do the same things, but my bulbs are Tuya which doesn't have an integration yet, so it's a kludgy solution.
The easiest solution would be to go with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_iTnJDbPWF33T2
The work great with the Hue bulbs and can be mounted on the wall like a regular switch. There are other similar options, but in my opinion these look the best and are the most user friendly. Might be a good interim solution even if you decide to get into a more sophisticated system like Smartthings or Home Assistant.
My girlfriend also hates using Alexa to control lights so I've done a similar thing and set presets for color and brightness based on time of day which greatly reduces how often she has to deal with the lights. Motion sensor that trigger simple lights like hallways and bathrooms work well too.
As an FYI - TRÅDFRI can pair with the Hue Bridge
Keep the trådfri bulbs but get a Hue Bridge instead of the Ikea hub. Then you can pair them with the hue dimmer switch. Works fine for me in my living room that doesn't have any physical switches.
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Dimmer-Switch-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS/
I think you don't really grasp how the hue bulbs work. They need to have continuous power to operate, this allows them to turn on and off, dim and change colour.
If you power off the lamp, you're cutting off the power to the system in the bulb that controls it. It's like expecting your google home to work if you turn it off at the wall.
You have four options for physical switches, that vary in price from cheapest to most expensive.
We just used the Philips Hue Dimmer Switch. It only works with Hue, to my knowledge. It just attaches to the wall, it's battery powered and wireless. Blanked off the existing switch for the ceiling light.
Otherwise I'd recommend the Lutron Caseta, they require another proprietary hub but don't require neutral wires.
And yeah it's been quite a busy year so far. Hopefully it slows down for the holidays (yeah right... we're hosting apparently)
​
Edit: if you want to "smart" things up, get a Smartthings hub and motion sensor or door sensor. You can set your Hue lights to turn on automatically when the sensor detects you!
Edit: In terms of a switch to control it, either bulb can be turned off by the existing wall switch or lamp switch. Either can be turned on by the same switch, but at least with Hue's current firmware, it will revert to full brightness white, I don't know about LIFX. However if you do turn it off with one of those switches, there is no way to turn it back on with the app/voice assistant/etc. So when I talked about the switches above, I'm talking about smart switches.
I don't think I was clear either that I think Hue might be the way to go. Of course you will get some bias towards Hue in /r/hue, but if you are concerned about reliability, automation, and control capabilities, I think Hue has more to offer.
Yes, the hue switch is a physical remote for the bulbs
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Dimmer-Switch-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS
This Lutron Caseta kit will solve your problem.
Basically it does exactly what you described. It makes the outside switch a smart switch and then allows you to take the pico remote to wirelessly control that switch. You can then mount the Pico remote to the wall inside your closet so that it'll look like a normal switch in your closet.
I was able to find these:
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https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-pedestals-P-BDG-PKG2W-Assistant/dp/B07G5V6M6G/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=homekit&qid=1557716715&s=lamps-light&sr=1-16&th=1
​
https://www.amazon.com/Koogeek-HomeKit-Assistant-Android-Devices/dp/B07MM1G8Y4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=homekit&qid=1557716715&s=lamps-light&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1
​
​
https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Dimmer-Switch-Required-HomeKit/dp/B0743Q7VCL/ref=sr_1_33_sspa?keywords=homekit&qid=1557716715&s=lamps-light&sr=1-33-spons&psc=1
​
​
I'm sure there are more, but I was just flipping through pages on amazon.
You can also use these Lutron remotes as wall switches...works with hue and each of the 4 buttons can trigger a scene.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=psdc_507840_t3_B01AANIVXE
Check out the Lutron Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8nohAbEZ20WS2. It’s basically a Zigbee remote for Hue and other zigbee bulbs.
I’ve replaced most of my bulbs with Hue and light switches with these. You can get the lutron pico Wall plate and put these remotes in your old switches. I removed my traditional switches and connected the wires together so the fixtures are always on. Been working great so far.
The trick with Abode is to pair the remote to the Abode hub, then pair the bulbs to the Abode hub, then pair the remote to the bulbs.
This will work fitted into this
And works with standalone zigbee bulbs, a hue hub, or smartthings.
What you need is a Luton smart bulb remote, they have some making them but you might get lucky and find them. These pair with the Philips Hue bulbs and work great
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
Or https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RZZ46D0UK6VC3/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B014STZASK
is this part of the Hue ecosystem / friend of hue / bridge?
Would it pair with the hue dimming switch or the lutron remote?
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
ty.
not zwave but https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
get that and the mounting kit
In my setup (Inspire LED) I use to pull power from a standard outlet (behind Fridge or microwave). This was run to an RF Receiver that let me control the lights via wireless RF Controls, like this one. This setup worked.. okay.. the receiver and transmitter I used weren't the best.
I have since re-configured to use a Smart Outlet, connected to my Wink and controlled with Alexa. I have also setup a Lutron Bulb Remote that has shortcuts that allow me to operate the lights. This is mounted, next to a single gang box, and covered with a double gang plate, you cannot tell the difference.. no drywall is cut or removed. Lutron makes a wall-mount kit for their remotes.
Not a single wire is run in these setups. You can mount the remote anywhere you please. You could even add a simple in-line toggle switch to turn them on / off... and mount under the cabinets.. no dimming tho.. endless options.
Is there a reason why you're going the bulb route instead of the smart switches? Depending on how many bulbs you get, the cost can get up there pretty quickly. I use Lutron Caseta switches and they integrate well to smartthings and then into google home. I also have 4 downlights with hue bulbs in them for one room. What I did was just wired the power wires behind the switch to always have power to the fixture. At the time, Lutron sold a remote that looked the the other smart switches I installed that could control hue light bulbs. I just put it over the wires with a bracket that Lutron made as well.
I use this one for two of the lights in my house:
Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Fepyzb0C7TV95
Get this accessory and it fits in your standard light switch.
Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CfpyzbTEYY4F5
Almost! The lutron stuff is a bit confusing. They have their pico/caseta line (which you don't want), and their connected bulb line.
You want this, this, and this. Of course, you'll also need Zigbee bulbs (Osram Lightify, GE Link, etc) and a compatible hub, such as Wink. If you'd like, you can get a second remote and keep it beside your bed.
Hope this helps!
this? and it works out of the box with hue?
I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but the other day I asked a similar question.
I wanted my Hues to be powered all the time so I could always use the Hue app alone to turn them on, or have them return to the previous scene, or all the other benefits that come with leaving the Hues powered.
However, I wanted to replace the Decora switches/dimmers with something that could be used to control the Hues but without cutting power. So my solution is what /u/rittyroo suggested, I purchased a Lutron Connected Bulb Remote with the wallplate bracket and hooked it up to the Hues. It's not designed for them, but there is a Youtube video showing how to set it up and it worked for me no problem.
I still have to actually hardwire the lights to always-on, though I haven't yet because they're three-way switches which are outside of my expertise - I'll be getting an electrician or someone smarter than me to do it. But the system works exactly like I had hoped.
I know this isn't exactly the response you were looking for but there are decora style hue switches. Technically they are remotes but you can hardwire your lights to always be on and install the remotes as decora switches. My current system consists of 27 hue bulbs controlled by 12 of these remotes/switches and it works great. Links and documentation below.
Remotes
Wallplate Brackets
Documentation:
As mentioned by Doombot5 I’d opt by taking the switch out. I’ve bought 2 Phillips Hue dimmer switches and just don’t use them any more. Mostly because I bought Lutrons wireless pico remotes. I pulled the old rocker switch out, connected the wires together (Always on) and paired the remote to the bulbs I wanted the remote to control. It has dimmer capabilities but not scene selective. Lutron sells mounting brackets and face plates for the wireless remotes so if you choose they can cover the removed switch and replace it. It looks quite good and you’d never know that the switch is wireless. For me it was the best option that eliminates the switch cutting power and allowing people who prefer switches to still have the option.
I don’t regret at all switching to this method, I only regret not doing it sooner!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014STZASK/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1505659804&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pico+remote
I appreciate your input!
Using a smartphone or tablet would be a sufficient alternative in many circumstances. The Phillips Hue lights work very well with the associated smartphone app. Phillips also makes a Dimmer Switch and a Tap Switch for use cases when having access to a phone or tablet is not practical. The Phillips hardware switches might be preferable over a phone/tablet because you only have to press a single button (versus unlocking a phone, opening the correct application, and then pressing a button) and a phone/tablet has much greater needs in terms of electricity. The Phillips Dimmer Switch operates on a replaceable watch battery. The Phillips Tap Switch doesn't even require a battery at all! (It uses the mechanical energy generated by the physical action of pressing the button to power itself.)
I wonder if either the Dimmer Switch or Tap Switch from Phillips could be hacked/re-purposed to send command to Google Home?
I believe this is what you're looking for - https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Dimmer-Installation-Free-Exclusive/dp/B0167Z0P3I
Sure thing! You only need to buy one thing, a Hue starter set. I would also recommend the dimmer switch so you can operate the lights easily without using the app. Then you just download the Hue app, follow the directions and get started. I personally suggest the old Hue app over the new one. I think it's this one, but I'm not 100% sure. The reason why the old app is better is because you can set the fade duration to any whole minute level. The new app does it only in increments of 5 minutes. While the new app might look snazzier, it just didn't do what I needed. And that's it! Just play around with different schedules.
My setup is two lights, one on each nightstand. They fade up to full brightness at 6:30, automatically turn off at 8. Then they automatically turn on at 8PM and fade down over 10 minutes starting at 9:20. It's my cue that bedtime is coming. I'm basically creating my own night-day cycle.
Sure, sure.. Look at these though. You can place them anywhere.. and you can tap it 5 times for different "scenes"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0167Z0P3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a very similar setup (just installed in the past week). The only difference is I'm using an iPad for a hub and voice control instead of Google Home.
If you want to use Homekit on your phone keep in mind that wemo switches are not homekit compatible and you'd have to run a Homebridge server (very easy if you have a computer that's always home/on).
One thing that I didn't really think about was guests coming over and flipping the dumb switches all over the place, and making all of your hue bulbs unresponsive. I installed two of these to prevent that, as well as a Hue Dimmer Switch for the living room to control a floor lamp and ceiling lamp simultaneously.
I think you might be looking for this:
SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY by Osram - Smart Home- Dimming Switch for all LIGHTIFY Products Control your Smart Home System at the Touch of a Button, Works with Alexa (hub required) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8OfCybXA5VXDY
I use one with my SmartThings Hub and it works great.
Someone else said the same thing lol. There's also these https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y
Same concept but looks better.
This might work: SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY ZigBee 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch, Works with SmartThings, Hub Needed for Amazon Alexa or the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Jft2AbCSWS0E5
Also, if you search Amazon for Zigbee remote, a couple come up that might work. Good luck!
OSRAM LIGHTIFY Dimming Switch looks good. Not available on the EU frequency from what I can see though :(
I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_o8EqDbTC1P2HK
in Smartthings.
It fits over a light switch so you can no longer use it and can be set up to connect to Hue through Smartthings.
There's also the new Lutron Aurora. http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/SmartBulbDimmer/overview.aspx It connects directly to the Hue hub and is nicer looking, but pricier.
Alternatively, you can get Switches for insteon or caseta. Both require their own hub but they have no neutral required switches. It won't work directly with Hue, but it will act as a kill switch for power to the Hue lights so it just may require multiple commands like "turn on caseta kitchen lights, set hue kitchen lights to blue".
Here you go:
SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY ZigBee 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch, Works with SmartThings, Hub Needed for Amazon Alexa or the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yOG5Ab9B22XYP
My house had similar wiring in several rooms, so I removed the wall switches and simply tied the wires together so the outlets would remain on. Then I bought some of these and mated them to a SmartThings hub to do something similar to what you describe:
In the SmartThings App, you can set up Routines "[Room Name] Lights On" and "[Room Name] Lights Off", and you can set them to "Automatically perform '[Room Name] Lights On' when... Something turns on or off." Then you pick the switch you wanted to perform the routine.
Beware, there's a caveat:
Communication from the switch, through the Zigbee network, to the hub, to the Internet, to the SmartThings service, and all the way back to the outlets is slow -- like, it takes 5 whole seconds to turn the lights on -- which, even after a year, is still enough time to make me think, Oh, I probably didn't actually click the switch. It's not something I would recommend to the average person who just likes things to work, but, if you're looking for a very specific solution with the lights and wiring you have, it is actually faster than using voice control. Good luck.
I'm using Sylvania Smart Home 73743 Lightify Smart Dimming Switch, Dimmer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ cause I wanted to use it over the existing switch.
Yes it's funky looking, but the one I got does mount directly over your existing switch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y
Lightify switches mount over a dumb switch. You just pop it off and toggle the switch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196M620Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512069064&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lightify+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=31RTusR3UNL&ref=plSrch
Hey there, I was looking this stuff up recently and came across this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0196M620Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like this a lot (though it's a little large). We use it to control the Hue bulbs in our nightstand lamps individually instead of the physical switch. Works like a charm.
I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0196M620Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can you provide a link to the product on Amazon? I don't see any Sylvania smart wall plugs in the "simple setup" list.
edit: nevermind, I see it now, I'm just blind. That should definitely work with Echo Plus.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/
Thank you for the detailed response. For me, I will likely be using just basic white LEDS, not RGB, so color space isn't a factor in this particular project (just wanting better lighting in my garage).
I was planning on using these modular LED enclosures attached to the ceiling, and then I wanted to control their on/off capabilities with something compatible with the Hue app. For that I think the Gledopto Dimmer Switch might be able to work, I'd need to adapt it somehow from the three prong power outlet that's included in the enclosures.
Ideally I was hoping to find something like this smart outlet, but from the recent reviews it seems that it's not compatible with Hue. I have yet to find one that explicitly states that it is verified Hue compatible. This would be nice because then I wouldn't have to worry about rewiring like I will with the Gledopto dimmer.
It don't know much about the flickering, I will have to research that some more.
Again, thank you for the response, if I ever want to do more Hue projects with proper RGB lights, I will keep your advice about color protocols in mind.
I had excellent luck with the Sylvania Smart+ plug. They operate on a ZigBee network; mine are integrated with my Philips Hue lighting setup, but they work standalone with Amazon Echo or Google Home devices. Not bad for $24.
Only if that light is 12/24V or you then hook up a relay to switch 110V. There's the implication that this works for switching: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=asc_df_B01M6UM8QD5413698/
Checking Amazon reviews on some devices however, there are people complaining about Wink compatibility such as with the Sylvania outlets and motion sensors.
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But it's also entirely possible it is user error.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXPGXQ1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews
https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-ZigBee-Smart-SmartThings-Assistant/product-reviews/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar
Thats what I'm trying to get away from, more hubs. Half wish I went with a more expansive system like Insteon.
Reading the reviews on Amazon, sounds like only the older model works directly with the Hue hub, is that what you have?
Here’s what I used with Alexa/ST. New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0VwgAbD6D17PZ.
New Model : GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14294 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TXwgAb5Z1F42N
I meant an actual wired wall switch that looks like a normal switch. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1509557764&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ge+switch+zwave&psc=1
Ok. Maybe smarter to make the switch smart rather than the light bulbs. Do you have a separate switch on the wall that turns the light on/off today? Or is it one switch for both fan and light? I'll assume you do have a separate switch:
TP-Link dimmer if you don't have a controller.
GE Dimmer if you do.
If you don't have a separate switch, I have a different idea.
The GE or HomeSeer dimmers will work just fine. I personally use the GE ones. Make sure you get the Z-Wave Plus ones though... they can be enabled through a device handler in ST to enable double tap (so can the HomeSeer switches).
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Required-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517504684&sr=8-4&keywords=ge+z-wave+plus+switch
or
https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517504684&sr=8-5&keywords=ge+z-wave+plus+switch
Again make sure it's the Z-Wave PLUS model. Even within those links, picking a specific switch might get you the non-plus.
As far as wattage, you should be fine. Standard switches will do up to 600w, that's 10x60w bulbs on a single circuit (or 6x100w) assuming incandescent bulbs, power usage goes WAY down with LED bulbs.
Your biggest problem is going to be getting all of your switches to fit into the wall... they're quite big. I'd recommend jumping neutrals and line if you can from switch to switch, instead of trying to add to the bundles (i.e. neutral into switch 1, then out of switch 1 to switch 2, etc...). If you're not comfortable with wiring you should have an electrician install them.
I am mostly using GE dimmers in my home - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Enbrighten-Repeater-SmartThings-14294/dp/B01MUCZA1C
But to be clear, I've using other dimmers (lutron was my last one) and had nearly the same dimming result.
I'll have to check on the bulbs and inserts, but for the most part they are fairly inexpensive name brand. I wanna say phillips or ge. The inserts were $10-$12, and the LED bulbs were probably $10-$15 for a 4 pack.
When I was disappointed by the dimming level, I started looking at dimmers at first, but read that often it's the lights that are the issue. Drivers I believe.
Anyway, I don't mind paying for a step up in lights that are likely to meet my goals. 10% might work, 5% would be even better.
Is there any reason you're not considering a smart dimmer? You can get them as a switch or a plug. (There are also WiFi versions, if Z-Wave isn't your thing.) Then you can use whichever light you like, as long as they are marked as "dimmable" on the packaging.
I'm not a proponent of smart bulbs in general because, while they last long, they do still burn out. But I understand they are a good solution for some people, though. I hope you find what works for you.
While I can't speak to the outlet, I have the GE Z-Wave light switch and it has worked flawlessly with Abode. I would think that the outlet would be similar.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14294/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541907588&sr=8-4&keywords=GE+Z-wave+switch
For that I would use a couple z-wave wall switches. Since it would be the easiest to implement. GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Control, Speed ONLY, in-Wall, Includes White & Lt. Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287, White and GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch, Full Dimming, In-Wall, Incl. White and Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14294
Why not install "smart" light switches which are directly wired to "dumb" bulbs?
E.g. Z-wave toggle wall switch.
I used that
GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch, Full Dimming, in-Wall, Incl. White and Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14294 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hbVBCbDJXQR0C
I use zwave GE smart switches. They are reliable and work amazing! I have one for my light and fan in the bathroom currently with a few different automation. zero issues.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Enbrighten-Repeater-SmartThings-14294/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=196U15RIKMG2C&keywords=ge+zwave+switch&qid=1569958084&s=gateway&sprefix=ge+z+wave+s%2Caps%2C237&sr=8-3
I would stay away from wifi light bulbs and wifi switches. Z wave is probably the best connection for those kinds of devices, especially if you want reliable fast local automation.
The GE Model 14294 is $40 on amazon
Its "officially" recognized by wink - Linking this switch up with wink hub 2 is super easy
https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520302424&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+14294
You could keep your current bulbs and install a smart switch instead, this is a popular option:
https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506608062&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ge+smart+switch&psc=1
You would need a hub with that, but considering smartthings is selling for $50 on Amazon it could be more cost effective depending on the amount of bulbs you would have to replace if you went with smart bulbs instead.
For the smart bulb option I'd say check out sylvania lightify. Lowes has them on sale now for 75% off. They're $7.50 for the basic white ones. It can pair directly with most smart home hubs like smartthings or wink so if you already have one it would be very cost effective.
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Lightify-promotion/4294400949
So for multi-way setups. You need ONE master switch if you will then the add-on switches for the rest. So for a 3-way setup (2 switches control the same light or group of lights) you need:
Quantity 1 of https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/
Quantity 1 of https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GFB0UNY/
For a 4-way setup (3 switches control the same light or groups of lights) you need:
Quantity 1 of https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/
Quantity 2 of https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GFB0UNY/
For all these setups, YOU MUST HAVE NEUTRALS!
Hope that helps, cheers!
EDIT: I missed your dimmer bit, you need these as your master switch: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/
I use the GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Control Dimmer Switch with SmartThings for my exterior lights. I really like that they are set to turn on at sunset and turn off at sunrise.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I was surprised at first by the lack of HomeKit support, considering that most of not all of their other products are compatible. But like others have said, battery life is probably the main concern. Phillips Hue has a battery powered wall dimmer switch that can control other HomeKit devices and scenes, but they’re only able to accomplish this through the Hue bridge. Also, they are similar, but not quite not decora sized unfortunately.
One more thing--can I add a wall mounted wireless dimmer switch to control the light strip after wiring it to the FLS-PP?
Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-473371-Dimmer-Installation-Free-Exclusive/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518044853&sr=8-3&keywords=hue+wireless+dimmer+switch
I've had a similar problem with a poorly placed switch. I already had a bunch of Hue lights, so I got a Hue Smart Dimmer Switch (Amazon Link) and stuck it to the wall where I wanted the switch and covered the old switch with a tamper-proof cover (Amazon Link).
​
No electrical work required.
Yes they do. It's not like a traditional light switch, but you can also buy one of these if need be.
I have a few of the 4 button Hue dimmers, which I love... there was a hack to use them with Smartthings, which is OK except I want to get away from any reliance on the cloud at all.
So, since you already have a Hue bridge, these buttons can be had for @ $25. Pair them with your Hue bridge, but don't assign them to any rooms/groups/lights.
On your Pi, install node-red, and install the nodes for Homeassistant (node-red-contrib-home-assistant) and Hue(node-red-contrib-huemagic) from the palette. You can then make a flow that will allow you to do pretty much anything you want with the Hue dimmer buttons. I currently have one attached to a lamp with a Cree ZHA bulb that does on/off, dim up and down in 10% increments, long-press dim up sets to 100% brightness, long press dim down sets to 5%. I have another that controls a hacked Wifi smart plug I picked up at Walmart (Homie firmware) that works with MQTT.
Here is the route I'd go down. It's gonna be a bit complex though, but almost all home automation stuff is complex at this point.
Glossed over a metric shit-ton of detail, but like I said.... this whole "home automation" space is still pretty chaotic and complex. If you are in the apple ecosystem and have an appletv, you can also do a similar thing with HomeKit, HomeBridge and MQTT.
Your other alternative is to simply buy a damn dimmer switch from Phillips Hue that works with their light bulbs and call it a day. They are a very high quality dimmer, honestly.
I have the exact same desire as you, and it is frustrating that these are so hard to find. I do have a couple of experiments set up around my house's
The first is the easiest. I have a few Hue dimmer switches (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS) in strategic locations around the house, but they are typically next to existing switches that I've taped over-the-counter and overall it's an unsatisfying solution.
My second experiment is a zwave scene controller (Gocontrol Z-Wave 3-Way Wall Accessory Switch -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EAY3K5Y), and it's probably my favorite solution so far, but they're difficult to come by. I don't think they're actually manufactured anymore. I have it installed talking to my automation system which turns around and talks to hue lights, and it works pretty well. I could achieve the same thing by using any zwave (or zigbee, I guess) in-wall switch and just not hook up the load write, but it seems wrong to me, and I philosophically don't want to pay for the switching or dimming hardware. My ideal price point for these would be $30-35 instead of $50.
My third experiment is something that just got released at CES (Click for Philips Hue (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MMWH2YB). It's actually also pretty elegant and doesn't actually need to be wired in, but I find it's slightly less reliable than I'd like, and I sometimes have to push the buttons decently hard or multiple times to ensure functionality.
My ideal solution would be a combination of second and third, basically a wired zigbee in-wall scene controller, and aside from the RGB one posted earlier in this thread (it's $80!!), I haven't really seen one that fits the bill, much less is reasonably priced.
You can buy Philips hue and get a switch. That should probably do the what you are asking for.
Most people who go all in on Hue cover the light switches with something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MDDFM7/ref=dp_cerb_2 and add some of these for switches https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Dimmer-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1538531531&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hue+dimmer+switch&psc=1 or https://www.amazon.com/Philips-without-Batteries-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B079P5H2WG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1538531555&sr=1-1&keywords=hue+tap
I currently split my time between two residences and one has hue the other Lutron and I find the hue just has all sorts of nice bells and whistles like sleep cycle alarm integration along with having solid lights that have consistent dimming and color options. The Lutron works and adds some smart functionality to your lights but in my experience getting it up to what Hue gives you takes a lot more work.
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Dimmer-Switch-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS
If you want smart lights and need a physical switch to use I would suggest two options.
The first option is to upgrade your wall switches. I have used these before and have had no issues Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch for Wall & Ceiling Lights, PD-6WCL-WH, White, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x-WWBbPYJ4QP5
If you want to go the Hue light route you can buy wireless switches and use the included 3m mounting to hang it on your wall Philips Hue Smart Dimmer Switch with Remote (Installation-Free, Smart Home, Exclusively for Philips Hue Smart Bulbs), 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IeXWBb02JK78V
What do you want it to do that this can't?
You can install Hue switches. They’ll do exactly what you’re looking for.
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Dimmer-Switch-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS
You may have just provided the solution to my long-standing dilemma with moving to smart dimmer switches (i.e.).
I would wire them to be always on. Remove the current switch and stick a philips hue dimmer switch where you want a switch. All other switches will probably have a delay speaking with the HUB.
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-473371-Dimmer-Installation-Free-Exclusive/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525883160&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=philips+hue+switch&psc=1
Can't you get the removable dimmer switch and just use it as a remote? I do that and it's pretty useful.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076MGKTGS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076MGKTGS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520078873&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hue+switch&psc=1
All buttons can do different things. You can also use a short press and a long press for different actions
I've been using Lutron Caseta light switches+hub with Alexa for the past few years. These are expensive but of very high quality. I believe the Lutron Smart Bridge is required to connect to Alexa; you can get the starter kit from Amazon, but prices tend to be better on eBay.
There is a healthy discussion of this and other options in the homeautomation reddit, so that's worth checking out if you go down this road.
Missing wires in locations is never a good sign. I haven’t personally used them but I’ve seen them a lot. You can try a Lutron https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B07G5V6M6G something like this. It might prevent you from have to run additional wires.
You'll just need one bridge and it works out to cost about $40 if you buy it with the dimmer and pico bundle (although Amazon is offering me a 30% off coupon at the moment, which would make it under $10 - link in case other people see the coupon too).
The dimmers don't connect on wifi, so they need a Lutron bridge. From there it is probably the best integrated product in my home. Everyone appears to integrate with Lutron.
Here are them same ones on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B07G5V6M6G/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=Lutron&qid=1549908122&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1WB-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B07HM6L48C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Lutron&qid=1549908122&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Lutron Caseta doesn't require a neutral.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B07G5V6M6G/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=lutron+caseta&qid=1574783198&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE3RlI1N0g0Sks2NUkmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzMDQzNjgzMkdCSDAxTzZQTVgzJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4NDg4MTUzS0lFMkEzMjJXWU9NJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Here are some options for a Z-Wave power outlets:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Receptacle-Resistant-14288/dp/B07361JZ2H/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-2&keywords=zwave+power+outlet
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Receptacle-12721/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-3&keywords=zwave+power+outlet
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DZR15-1RZ-Controls-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B01N6HT2YN/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-5&keywords=zwave+power+outlet
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-DSC11-Sockets/dp/B00H3RL6JW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-6&keywords=zwave+power+outlet
Oh yeah, something like that would be cool after I decide on the hub (I'm like 90% sure I'll want some zwave compatibility). Kind of wish it ALSO had dumb timer options for my hub-less self now, but that is one to definitely bookmark for me, thanks!
This isn't time sensitive, I was just looking in my backyard and thought I'd post to see what was out there. I wonder if I can actually just install one of these (or similiar) in the GFCI outlet (that is encased) actually...
Will these work? They're about 15 bucks cheaper and supported by Wink.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Receptacle-12721/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1501015861&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+zwave
Edit: Probably not as I think they're only 15A
Here's what you asked for
Hub:
Wink Hub 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_D2e7ybH4AEXCA
Bulbs:
Hue White Ambiance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESW34RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_B0e7ybX5B7KF0
Lock:
August Smart Lock (2nd Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168IXNZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_R3e7ybSK95NFG
Outlets:
GE Z-Wave Wireless Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_04e7ybQXPB1TX
Based on what you said about a nice slick UI I think the Wink 2 wins that battle over a Samsung Smart Things hub. Plus if you get into adding shades Lutron makes a nice z wave shade called the Serena and the Wink 2 can operate Lutron devices without needing another hub. It's not as customizable as Smart Things, but I think it works well and has good support behind it.
The Hue Ambiance bulbs are nice, does tons of white light shades only so it fits your requirements there. You will need a Hue bridge, but that integrates with the Wink 2 nicely.
If you can get the August lock with Z-wave functionality I'd go with that over what I linked because I think the normal August is pretty shit, but it's the only lock I know of where you can assign one time use codes or time sensitive ones. Getting the normal (Bluetooth) August lock online requires the August Connect and its a buggy piece of shit that barely works even with the best connection and very close to the lock. Maybe software will\has fixed it but in my prior experience with it I was very not impressed. You can also add a keypad to the August on the secured side of the door. All those extras add up though, but you can do everything you said was required with the August that I believe no other lock can do.
The outlets are pretty self explanatory, work off Z-wave and only one plug is automated the other is always on.
Alexa can integrate with everything I listed, all you need to do is give everything a unique name and have her find the smart home devices and you can give simple commands like, "Alexa turn off kitchen light" and it'll do it.
You could definitely get more complicated setups but all of these things will work together, you could even pair your Ecobee with the Wink 2 if you wanted to.
You could buy a z-wave outlet like this or this, and then set up an automation for it only go on when you are in away mode. The only downside to this is that you will get an Uh-oh/fault notification (on the web or mobile app) from your glass break sensor when you try to arm your system (because there's no power), so for instance, you may have to arm your system twice from the keypad to push through the Uh-oh notification.
I almost pulled the trigger on one of these, but wouldn't it make more sense (and be a bit cheaper) to simply replace the outlet itself?
So to add to my previous comment, im not sure about commercially, but if you latch this onto the gate where it swings out it will keep it in place with a little handy work and depending on the gate style.
https://www.amazon.com/27-5A-Spring-Plunger-Solenoid-Electromagnet/dp/B00S4U3WWQ
Combine this with a Zwave plug or a timer to power it on when you want the gate to become free. You could angle the gate or spring load it from the opposite side to free open.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Mechanical-Multiple-Lighting-Polarized/dp/B00435FRXS/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1479876032&sr=1-4&keywords=timer+plug
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Receptacle-Wireless/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1479876060&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=GE+zwave+outlet
the other ways are probably safer if you are not sure.
but just a receptacle like http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY
and a relay.
its very similar to this setup
http://www.instructables.com/id/Z-Wave-Garage-Door-Opener-Switch/?ALLSTEPS
plus i have a zwave door / window sensor to tell me the garage door state.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013V1SRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I would not use bulbs unless you want some sort of multicolor control. Plugin modules are a much better idea and are cheaper overall.
Ex:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Appliance-12719/dp/B0013V58HU
You can even get one that measures power consumption:
http://aeotec.com/z-wave-plug-in-switch
If I were to buy a z-wave module such as this one, how would I communicate with it? Is there a monthly payment to someone or can my phone just talk to it? Also, is it as simple as plugging it into my outlet and it's set up?
Why not just use a normal z-wave outlet switch like this guy:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Appliance-12719/dp/B0013V58HU/ref=sr_1_2?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1483521194&sr=1-2&keywords=z-wave+outlet
or
https://www.amazon.com/Insteon-Smart-Works-Amazon-Alexa/dp/B00G5R6S9O/ref=sr_1_4?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1483521251&sr=1-4&keywords=insteon+switch
My insteon switch even detects when I use the lamp on off switch itself after a couple of clicks, so turning it on or off again from the app still works. It's pretty uncanny.
No, this is an independent venting fan upstairs. It's connected to a standard 110v wifi plug and integrated with IFTTT for an IF Temp drops below 73, THAN SMARTTHINGS Switch to On.
I did it with a relay switch and wired it to the garage opener. I also needed to wire a power cord to it so that I can plug it into a Z-wave Plug-in switch. Then I set a rule on my hub to switch it on and off immediately. This action replicates the shorting of the wire that a normal garage button does. This method is easiest compatibility since you can use whatever Plug-in switch that works with your hub, and it also acts as another repeater for your other z-wave devices.
This site goes into more details on how to wire everything: http://24-7-home-security.com/how-to-make-a-smart-garage-door-opener-that-works-with-any-protocol/
I also bought the Z-wave tilt sensor and mount on the garage door, which lets me know when the garage is opened or closed.
Yeah, this is possible. Just buy a z-wave plug (I use this one) and plug your AC into it. Turn your AC on. Then, whenever you turn the plug on via SmartThings, the AC turns on. If you turn the plug off, it cuts the AC's power, and the AC is off.
Really simple way to turn a dumb AC into a smart-ish AC.
Well, I have this one which I really like. I just now noticed that Amazon doesn't sell it anymore and I have no idea why. I paid around $30 for it. It has good reviews.
No on those ones it seems, but any Z-Wave ones will work. I have a couple of these https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Lighting-Control-Appliance-12719/dp/B0013V58HU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478553902&sr=8-1&keywords=z-wave+plug+in+switch
Sorry, I should clarify. I don't have smart switches, I have dumb ones. They cut off power to the lights if I need them off in a case like this, and when you turn the power back on, Hue bulbs default to on.
I believe this is a setting option with LIFX.
I also have these with dumb bulbs and they are load sensing, so if I turn it off and then on again, it will provide power to the bulb, regardless of the commands it is/isn't receiving from my hub.
Hope this helps!
You didn't mention a budget, so how about 5 z-wave modules controlled by a hub. You could manually change which lamps are on, or have it automatically switch based on programmed events.
I've got two of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V58HU/ref=psdc_6478741011_t1_B0013V1SRY
I use a few of these to control power to lighthouses and hmd.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013V58HU
With home automation they are part of the "start up" process for my TV/receiver with the htpc always on. If you prefer a fail proof (so far for me) method and have a little extra to spend I'd say it's worth it.
I can confirm that the Z-Wave GE 45603 plug-in appliance module works with the Wink hub.
I have on/off control, but the on/off status is not reflected correctly in the app.
I paired it with the Wink hub not using the "Add a product" function, but rather by selecting the Hub from the Home screen, then by hitting the "..." button in the top right, then "<my hub name>", then "Z-Wave Controls", then "INCLUSION MODE", then I hit the physical button on the front of the plug-in module and then got a green light on the hub to indicate successful pairing.
Not looking for lights, I plan to use bulb string lights. I'm in need of something like this ( http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Outdoor/dp/B0013V8K3O) to use on an outdoor light. The one I linked does not provide the dimming feature. The main question I have is finding one that works with multiple LED lights without causing a flicker.
I'm not sure what existing system you have already... but here's how I would do it.
Leave the switch in the ON position 24/7.
For the GFCI outlet, depending on how you would use it and if you want control over it, I would get this GE z wave outdoor dongle.
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Outdoor/dp/B0013V8K3O
For lights, I would get either the GE Link bulbs or Wemo bulbs, or Philips Hue. With its respective hub (or Smartthings Hub), you're able to control the lights thru your phone.
I was thinking something like this
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V8K3O/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item
But you need something that can send signals via Z-wave, like the veralite. Going through a rasberry pi would also probably work for you for somewhat cheaper, but somewhat more tinkering and work. Although I wouldn't be surprised if someone else has already done something similar. It mostly depends on what else you want to automate I'd say.
Personally, I've not had good luck with GE devices. I have an outdoor switch (this one: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Required/dp/B0013V8K3O ), two wall switches, and one wall dimmer. The outdoor switch (the only one I still have installed) goes offline about once or twice a month for seemingly no reason even though it has direct line of sight to the hub (with the only obstruction being a glass window).
Now, that's me. It could just be my home layout. But I've had much better luck with Homeseer products (WS-100 and WD-100), though I don't know if they make an outdoor appliance switch, like the one you linked.
I use a GE outdoor module in my basement. My Yale lock isn't on it but it works with my other Zwave switches down there. It's ugly so if you need to put it somewhere visible the GE indoor lamp module would probably work as well.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Outdoor/dp/B0013V8K3O
Home assistant will interface with all sorts of products you can look at the Home Assistant website to see all things it interfaces with.
I will also say that this is the most active community and the fastest to incorporate new products. Over the last five months I have been tinkering with HA many new products have been incorporated.
As for the Iris Smart Plug it is a zigbee device that contains a Zwave radio. It will connect to your Zwave network and be an always on device (meaning that it will extend the reach of your mesh network) but you will not be able to control the on and off of the plug. I have two of them and they work great if you use something that has Zigbee radio.
If you are only going to utilize the Z-Stick you will want to use something like one of the following:
[Leviton VRPD3-1LW Vizia RF] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFF4RG4/ref=twister_B01JJKURQS?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1) I have this one for my Christmas tree
GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Controller
[GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Outdoor Module] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V8K3O/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&amp;th=1) I have a few of these outside
As for the GE Duplex outlet, I have one or two of them but I really like the design and functionality of the Leviton VRR15-1LZ Vizia RF + Split Duplex Receptacle better.
As for light bulbs, I own Hue, Link, Cree, and maybe one more. They are all Zigbee bulbs so I connect them to the Hue hub and let it interface with HA. They work fine for my uses but I really don't care about the colors. When Lifx put its bulbs on sale a few weeks ago I almost bought some of the BR30 but didn't because they don't interface with Home Kit. I really don't need them since the fixtures already have a zwave switch but I thought it would be nice to change colors if I wanted to. Also I have found that some of the Zigbee bulbs loose the connection with the hub if they are turned on and off from a switch. I was hoping the Lifx being wifi would not do that.
Would anyone be interested in some youtube videos explaining my setup and discussing my experiences with products?
GE Outdoor Smart Plug
I think you can do it using mysensors. The store lists a ACS712ELC 30A Current Sensor which you can wire in series to your load. One idea would be to mimic a http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013V8K3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1453046080&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&amp;keywords=smart+receptacle+cord&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31v4qTEZyWL&amp;ref=plSrch or Aeon Labs DSC06106-ZWUS - Z-Wave Smart Energy Switch. You can do this by cutting an extension cable with one side going to the wall receptacle and the other to your load and all the electronics i n the middle. Need an arduino pro mini, radio, 110-5v, the current sensor, and a box to make it look nice.
Thank you! Do you think this one would work? https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-LED-Strip-Lights-Controller/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468859307&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=PWM+Dim+12v
btw here is my project: http://imgur.com/a/zgZzh
To give an example of what I would personally use.
LEDs (I would purchase 2 reels (10m total)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ST2I9O/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1#productDetails
Dimmer (2 of these, 1 per reel)
http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-LED-Strip-Lights-Controller/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=pd_sim_hi_bsb_12?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=024VHCH0KYFFJDQAM9QV
powered by this (only need the 1 but you can buy 2 if you'd prefer)
http://www.amazon.com/MEANWELL-HitLights-Listed-Adapter-Warranty/dp/B008K4UKLW/ref=sr_1_51?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397563708&amp;sr=1-51
Mount as much of the strip(s) as possible on U-channel or similar to minimize heat issues (the U channel will act as heat sink with a bit of "work") sideways outside of the square/rectangle lightbox. This will minimize the 0 0 0 0 0 0 lighting effect.
If you can build the desk enough to test you can see if 1 row around the perimeter will work, or 2 or 4... You can use the dimmer(s) to adjust the brightness as needed.
If you still need/want MORE lighting or want to have a separate smaller section that is always on at 100%, you can put some strips in rows across the "bottom" of the lightbox facing directly up.
I pretty much did this on my magnifier lamp. I have about ~.3 meter of the above linked LEDs running constantly at 100% for basic task lighting and a "night light" and ~2-3meter inside periphery of the reflector. I also used some to replace a picture lamp (it needs to be dropped by 50% though, it is too bright) and I am working on figuring out 2 more "ideas" now.
Rough math is rough but I figure it is approximately a 10% and 100% split. I am not using a dimmer on my setup though so I just try to not stare at the light for too long.
You can use a simple on/off switch like this:
www.amazon.com/HitLights-Light-Inline-Toggle-Switch/dp/B006U5JWQW
(advantage - barrel plugs to make it easy, but you can also splice/solder).
I knew it would be bright, so i put mine on a small rotary dimmer like this:
www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-LED-Strip-Lights-Controller/dp/B003L4KKF2
BUT - i never dim it. It's hard to have too much light. Just make sure that all of the LEDs are basically pointing away from you under the press. They can be too bright if pointed at your eyes when checking your case fill.
Nice job, looks great!
I made one too, but I used one of these to modulate the speed.
the pulse width modulation dimmer is a lot easier on the fan motor and uses less power (and it's dirt cheap). You can rip the insides out of the box, it's a pretty small board inside.
Also, old hard drive magnets are great for stir plates.
Use this stuff.
You can cut it every 4 inches and use wires to reconnect them again.
So you drill 1/4" in. holes to feed wire through, and run it to wherever you hide the power box. I stuck mine in the cabinet above the microwave.
I made a little switch enclosure box that sits flush with the bottom lip of the cabinet.
I used one of their fader units so that I could dim the lights.
Will this dimmerwork?
So what am I missing here?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JE0EKWQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1414606409&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70#productDescription_secondary_view_pageState_1414606587360
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LHEOE0A/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2VVYH6SU1OYRB#
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L4KKF2/ref=pd_aw_sims_7?pi=SL500_SS115&amp;simLd=1
You might try a normal switch connected to an
Aeon Labs Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0gD-zbVX154GH
Turns your dumb switch smart :)
There's also a dimmer module:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PiD-zbWY6WYJM
Are you running a hub? You could use a normal bulb and go this route: http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4
Look for z wave micro switches. They wire in and fit behind the switch. Or you can enlarge the hole and retrofit a 2 gang remodel box.
Either option is similar in work and wire expertise. For the box you will just need a little slack in the wires or to use wire nuts and extend them, also you will need to cut a larger hole in the drywall. If you can handle wiring a light switch diy, then either option is doable.
The other option is smart bulbs. Hue bulbs can be controlled by a smartthings hub directly.
Since you have a metal box it won't work like that. I would probably suggest something like this maybe.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4
Maybe you could place it inline somewhere closer to your network. Not sure on the ratings though.
How does your blower fan connect to power, hard wired I assume?
this meter will do it, but you need (some) infrastructure to be able to collect/log the data depending on what you want.
Once you have meter(s) like that you can do cool things with them though.
I think something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4
would work for you. You can keep your existing switches even. This is assuming you have enough room behind the existing switch in the gang box. You'll need a hub like a smart things, but previous comments seem to show you are alright with that.
Personally, I love the idea of the old style edison bulbs and fixtures. This would allow you to do it with no visible changes at all.
One problem I had with smart outlets is that one one of the plugs is controlled by the switch, the other is just on 100% of the time.
In my use case, paranoia over leaving the hair curler plugged in, that down fall was two much. Sure I could see the outlet was off but I had no idea if the device was plugged into the right outlet.
My solution was this little guy
Aeon Labs DSC18103-ZWUS,White,US,AL001 Aeotec Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch, 2nd Edition, White, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fBzqybV7TXXRH
Fits behind the standard outlet and turns the entire thing into a switch.
I'm also thinking this might be a good thing to add to a couple more outlets for Christmas lights
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fBzqybV7TXXRH
This will make a standard plug z wave. You can't control each plug individually but should do the trick.
You could look into products utilizing Z-Wave. There's a few modules that can be placed into a box behind switches or above light fixtures, like potentially this one. But you'd still need a Z-Wave controller, something like the SmartThings Hub, perhaps.
EDIT: Here's another Z-Wave wire-in switch. There are even motion sensors like this one and other things that speak Z-Wave.
ive got some of these that work great with existing switches and their faceplates and are about the same cost as whole new switches.
If I were you, I would go with Aeon Labs Z Wave Smart Energy Switch . They are cheap, hides behind regular light switches, and works flawlessly with Abode.
Also I'm guessing something like this would partially solve your problem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VWAPU4/
The Relay could link up to two of your switches and the micro switch to the third.
Of course the problem with any of these solutions is that you will only end up with two, physical switches. Whichever switch you do not connect to the relay should be something you don't mind activating primarily through the Relay touchscreen, your phone app, or, better yet, schedules and robots.
You seem to be doing it backwards. The dimmer on the wall should control the light. Heres a link to a great dimmer for that purpose.
Dimmer
The fan should be controlled by the 3 speed pull chain. You have three wires going to your fan. White is neutral, black is for the fan, blue is for the light.
But Diva and Maestro are both Decora, right? Both models look so similar to me, I don't even really see an aesthetics difference!
We're redoing all of our wall switches -- many to Caseta dimmers, so I just want whichever matches best with that (and is cheaper).
It's so weird how the pricing is on Amazon. For example:
So at the cheapest price points: Diva for $20 (in the 3-pack) vs Maestro for $24. Since I won't need to add on remotes or anything in the future, sounds like Diva is the way to go.
You have 1 of 2 options for this, you can either go with a slide style dimmer, and install it one of the two 3-way locations on either side, and keep the remaining 2 switches as manual switches with no dimming capability.
Or you can go with a digital dimmer that you install at one location, with companion switches that you install at the other 2 locations, so that you can dim from any of your 3 locations. Doing it with the companion dimmers will potentially require you to change a couple of splices in 1 or 2 of the switch boxes, because they are not wired like normal 3-ways.
The Diva C.L can dim anything.. you're fine.
I hope you enjoy your lighting.
If you want digital dimming:
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Incandescent-Single-Pole-Multi-Location-MACL-153M-WH/dp/B008X3CHM0
Awesome.
Is it something like THIS that is needed over what I PREVIOUSLY HAD?
$100 difference so it must "do something," right? LOL. Or do I need that dimmer plus a converter of sorts...?
Side note: You electricians are the best. My grandfather was one. Good man. Respect.
Why are you using expensive philips hue light bulbs? An LED BR30 in Warm White would work just fine.
Why not just use something less expensive and install a single dimming light switch
This is what I have at my house. It is an on/off switch with a little dimmer rocker and indicator lights that do stay on when you turn the light off. The indicator lights will get very dim when the light is switched off, and are brighter when you turn the light on
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008X3CHM0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466895048&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=lutron+led+dimmer&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51aViAG9viL&amp;ref=plSrch
You really should get this product if you expect to dim LED loads.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008X3CHM0/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?qid=1452254198&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;keywords=lutron+maelstrom+led
Thanks -- that's helpful. Do you have any z-wave relays that you've used in the past? I've used the Remotec switch before, but if there's something else out there that's better, would love to know.
Great to hear! Was thinking I needed something like this for the low voltage:
Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI
Here's the gist of it:
As for the cosmetics, others have alluded that the switch plate covers will not fit. However, the thread pitch is the same and so you should be able to get one screw to thread properly. I used a blank wall plate and covered the inside with black duct tape because the blinking blue LED on the switch was making me crazy when I'd watch movies. I used the top screw to hold the plate onto the Remotec switch, and then took a second screw and used a Dremel to grind it down to just the head of the screw, then glued that onto the lower screw hole on the wall plate. It looks like both screws are in, but in reality it's just the top one holding it in place.
Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nd2ACbTCYCT50
I did the same thing, but with that relay instead. It allows you to keep the light switch working.
Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI
Garage doors work by shorting the door wires for a moment to command the door. You could use this to accomplish that to open and close a door. You'd need a tilt sensor to know your door position and figure out the logic in HA. If you tell Alexa to close the door, and it's closed, do nothing.
I'm just a random person on the internet, research it yourself.
How about rigging his chair with an Echo Dot (gen 2). Gen 2 is cheaper and has USB power so you can power from either the chair or a Mophie juice pack. Tethered to his phone for connectivity so he can take Alexa with him when he goes out?
For the garage door ...If chamberlain didn’t suck by not providing a free skill I’d suggest the MyQ for about $60. However maybe can figure out another way to open and close by voice. If he already has a Zwave hub like SmartThings wonder if you could use this relay, along with a linear actuator to press the garage button using voice. Create a routine: when I say Alexa open garage, turn on relay, which powers the actuator and presses the button. Seems like this would work and now I kind of want to find a button to press at my house to try it. Can vouch for this working just throwing out some ideas for people to weigh in on.
Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YBn7BbX000B54
ECO-WORTHY 12V 2 Inch Stroke Linear Actuator 330lbs Maximum Lift with Mounting Brackets (12VDC 2'') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NM8H5TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lRn7Bb3459MZV
This is the one I am about to order. Check out the reviews. Lots of pictures from people who have hooked it up.
Edit: Looks like it's out of stock and no idea when it's coming back. :(
But at least it looks like the one wgbm linked hooks up about the same way.
I've read that in so many reviews. Ideally, I'd like to set it up exactly as you describe, but instead of training my dogs to utilized said button, I'd like to control it via zwave. Did you have to hack it to hardwire buttons into it, or does it provide contacts for such options?
Would such a relay: https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448130400&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=zwave+relay
have worked in your switch setup?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1O77D5UJY7IVU
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Qubino-Z-Wave-Contact-Module-ZMNHND3/dp/B01MSEG2J1/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=8Z9W3F3E3AH328B9PHGG
For zwave.
I’ve used both. Can set parameters for auto shutoff for time and choose to power off switch with loss and return of power. Pricy but work well
I’ve been looking into the same thing. There is one Z-Wave Dry Switch I’ve seen, and you’ll likely need a millivolt fireplace pilot system to do the actual ignition/deignition. Then you replace the manual switch on the pilot with the Z-Wave one.
I haven’t tried this myself yet, but I believe those are the pieces needed.
Depending on how your fireplace is ignited (i.e.-manually with a valve, match/lighter, etc) you might get away with one of these. When we had our house rewired (full gut job) I had them wire both fireplaces so that I could simply flip a switch: insta-flame. This would replace the switch but also add zwave compatibility so that anytime your fireplace is turned on, you could also set a scene to turn on the blower.
I've also seen zwave relays which you can modulate between momentary and latching so ostensibly you could control both the fireplace and blower motor with one relay. You would simply need a separate 110/220 relay to operate the blower but that would simply be an on/off situation i.e.- when the fireplace is on, the blower is on. If you went with a switch with whatever automation standard you could include a temperature gauge of some sort to turn on the blower when the room reaches a certain temperature.
This is what I used for the same situation... it works great. I use it via Z-Wave with SmartThings.
https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI
assuming it's a desktop, you can wire a normally open, SPST DC relay to the pc's power switch terminals. power the relay by a wall wart connected to a zwave module. from the vera issue a command to turn on the zwave module and then back off after a second or 2. the relay will close during that time, shorting the terminals of the power button together simulating a button press. or you can just buy one of these modules and wire its outputs across the power switch terminals and issue the same on/off commands mentioned from the vera. you could also use this method to turn off your pc too, depending on what you have your power button mapped to in windows (sleep, shutdown, hibernate, etc)
On the high side of your $, but dry contact:
Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z0j6Ab8189S79
I think that might be the same dry switch, but I used this one here. Pretty easy to setup and has been working for a couple of years now
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00913ATFI/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have it integrated with smartthings and Google home.
My gas fireplace had a switch on the wall, so I thought a smart switch would accomplish my goal to add the ability to use Siri to control the fireplace. Realized the switch was a low powered one, not a normal light switch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This wired between the switch allowed me to connect to the aeotec z wave hub and works great.
Here is the amazon link from the other comment https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/. Note though that it doesn't fit most standard decora panels so you would probably have to trim it.
I did this with z-wave using this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It does require power, but I had access to 120V under the fireplace.
I did this with GE Switches in the wall wired up with no load. I Direct wired my ceiling fans and rewired their light kits with the Aeotec Micro Dimmer 2nd Edition
Then use Smart Lighting in Smartthings to tell the dimmer to turn on/off depending on the on/off status of the GE Switch in the wall. I have 4 ceiling fans setup like this. Works well. Would probably work even better if the GE Switches I used were ZWave +.
This nice thing about this module is it still has a provision for the pull chain. So the switch and the pull chain are functional in my setup.
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC27103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B00IRI1CEK/
When it says "in wall", they mean it needs to be in an electrical box.
I hear you. I'm finding that smart outlets may not be the answer to most of what I want to do. I'm thinking I'm going be tucking a few of these in some boxes.
One of these should do the trick. Not a switch, but an in-line module that will connect to your hub. Oh yeah, you're gonna need a hub.
I use Aeon Labs micro dimmer modules on 3/4 way switches: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ it wires between a 3&4 way circuit and the load. You keep the standard switch hardware and wiring, and just put one of these in the electrical box that feeds the load. It's much cheaper than putting lots of satellite switches on your complex circuits.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ltxLBbBTYB6D4
Seriously... don't do this... This is an excellent way to burn down your house/apartment, or electrocute yourself. Yes, commercial products are a little more expensive, but that's because they have to meet actual quality standards and are rigorously tested (assuming you buy something that is UL rated).
Look in to a product like this: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd/dp/B00IRI1CEK/
That little "UL" in the top right corner means it is certified to not burn your house down (used properly)...
I literally just installed one of these 15 minutes ago. It works great, I can control it via Amazon Echo through my hub, but it maintains the look and feel of the original light switch.
The micro switch just sits inside the gangbox.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483133953&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=aeotec+micro+smart+switch
From what I've seen, there isn't a hubless option for a 3-way dimmer yet.
Past posts have suggested this option for a 3-way switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G
Note: It's not a true wired 3-way switch. You are covering one of the switches with a remote that looks identical to the wired wall switch.
OK so question. What if I were to replace the toggle switch with this smart switch - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=psdc_507840_t2_B014STZASK
If I were to switch the lights off at this switch - could I still flip them on from my phone app?
For dimming lights, I've got a couple Lutron Caseta dimmers paired with a Wink hub and love them, though they are a bit pricey. No neutral wire required in the switch box.
There's also a couple Caseta on/off switches, but Wink support for them is currently broken.
I prefer putting control at the light switch as opposed to smart bulbs, unless you're looking specifically for color mixing.
Lutron Caséta is supported by Wink. I'm sure there are "gotchas" but Wink compatibility is advertised. I've got one dimmer and one shade that work fine but I only use the Lutron app and HomeKit with the Lutron Caséta Pro hub.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G?ie=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0
If you don't need the pedestals for the pico remotes, I think you're better off buying these 2 bundles separate.
Bundle
Extra Switch & Pico
I have this *exact* same problem – they flash on, then off, then back on. From that point forward, they operate just fine without any flickering.
&#x200B;
I have am using Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Dimmer Switches and dimmable LEDs.
&#x200B;
Is this the LUT-MLC that you’re referring to? Can someone explain to me exactly how it works in conjunction with the above Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch?
What you could do for the three way dimming switch is put in this Lutron Caseta switch on one wall setup just as a regular two way switch, then the Pico remote that comes with the switch can be mounted in a wall switch plate on the other side of the room where the other three way switch is. The Pico remote is wireless and runs on a battery. You would just cap off the wires where the Pico switch is. If you look at that Amazon link there is a wall bracket where you can just mount the Pico switch in a direct replacement for the light switch. Then just pick whatever size/arrangement decora wall plates you need. That would give you a light switch on each side of the room with the same control you have now with the two three way switches.
You will need a Wink hub to control the Lutron lighting with your Echo.
Why not go to Lutron Caseta switches since they don't require a neutral?
this or this should work yea?
Sorry what i mean is does this one work with hue with your method:
https://www.amazon.com/P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G
Lutron Caseta. They even have a mount bracket where you don't have to cut the wall to add the second switch.
You would need a switch kit and a mounting bracket.
https://www.amazon.com/P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PICO-WBX-ADAPT-Pico-Wallplate-Bracket/dp/B00JZRAFEA
I assume that it is, but I can't confirm it. Are you in the US? If so, you'd be better buying either of these, which I can confirm are two wire:
Dimmer and Remote
Dimmer
Both are less expensive than the item on eBay, and the first one comes with a Pico remote. I've bought several of each of Amazon. (Lowes and maybe Home Depot also stock these).
Don't mean to hijack but I see this as relevant, if I purchased this kit which states it's homekit enabled (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPW6824/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
and this switch which has no mention of homekit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJY0S4G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3TX4YUK2VIRSQ)
Will the seperate switch work with the hub and all switches would then be homekit compatible? Thanks heaps if you are able to confirm this
This should work for you. I've been meaning to try it since I don't have neutral wires too. The installation guide doesn't seem to mention neutral wires.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJY0S4G/ref=s9_simh_gw_g60_i4_r?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-2&amp;pf_rd_r=0RV352DQJFT97AMFSSQC&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=2091268722&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop
No, check this out. Works without ground. I just installed one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJY0S4G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502846705&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41s8w2udgiL&amp;ref=plSrch
Just to double check would these 2 be all I need?
B00JJY0S4G
B00PYMGVVQ
I was going to get a few Lutron plug in switches but I found the bluetooth auto-off fairly reliable. Now that latest steamvr beta allows the entire system to be turned on from the wands and headset, I think that's actually superior to a third party switch setup.
You don't need the pro hub anymore, it works with the regular hub. I don't think the pico remote is individually programmable with HA yet but you could use this lamp dimmer if you just want to turn it on and off.
Yes. The Lutron dimmer is a physical switch that controls the device wired to it just like a normal non-smart switch.
These are the plug in dimmers: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1P-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY1QG0
You can pair them with wireless remotes to control lamps.
Lutron has a lamp outlet dimmer switch but you'll need to get the hub as well. There's a home assistant component which would then allow you to feed in the sunrise schedule.
I'm doubtful that a standalone dimmer like you're describing exists.
Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer and Remote Kit, P-PKG1P-WH, White, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q7GPCbYBJ7WJ8
>You need to find a smart switch that does NOT require a neutral wire. I don't know exactly which ones don't, but I know they're out there.
This one will work.
Unless I'm misunderstanding, they don't have a wireless dimmer option. I'll need one of these physically wired to the light, which unfortunately isn't possible.
Is there additional functionality I'm not aware of?
Haha, thanks! I like to know what's what, but it looks like since they didn't move the switch box, they didn't have to update it to the latest code when they renovated. I might have to look into a leak-to-ground switch if I can find one. I might be out of luck without using a Lutron Caseta Wireless.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-6WCL-WH-Caseta-Wireless-150-Watt/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467145260&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta+wireless
Looking at that, I might actually do that, Lutron has better quality products anyway and the price has come down on them too!
I guarantee you your house DOES have neutral wires, because AC power won't work without neutral wires. There may not be neutral wires in the light switch boxes though. Often what was done in years past was run a power line (hot/neutral/ground or hot/neutral in a grounded metal cladding) straight to the fixture, then run a two-conductor cable (hot/load) from the fixture to the switch. Thus there's neutral in the fixture, but not in the switch box. That's probably what happened here.
As for the Caseta- almost all smart switches require neutral into the switch itself. That's because while the dumb switch just interrupts power flow, the smart switch consumes power itself and thus the neutral is needed because the switch itself is a tiny 'load'. SOME Caseta switches don't require neutral, but they DO require having enough wattage load because the power that the switch runs on has to travel through the lights. If you have smaller LED lights, that often won't work right.
If you want to test this all- disconnect the red or orange from the switch one at a time. If this theory is correct, disconnecting one will make the fan not work (but light will still work), and disconnecting the other will make nothing at all work. Remember, turn off the circuit breaker before opening the outlet box, and cap the spare wire with a wire nut.
If that all is correct- you need either the Caseta dimmer that doesn't need a neutral, like this one...
Lutron makes great smart switches. As others mentioned occupancy sensors are better than smart switches for high traffic areas like kitchens, bathrooms, hallways and smart switches are better in bedrooms, living rooms, etc.
>the smart switch is a cheaper option
You don't seem to be getting the fact that you are comparing apples to oranges. Further, smart switches are not necessarily cheaper than Hue color bulbs. The Lutron is a popular smart switch that is more expensive. Also, your statement that smart switches never need to be replaced is wrong. Smart switches have sensitive electronics that can and do fail.
I am not an electrician but just went through the same challenge and found a solution. I have been swapping out the dimmer switches in my house (built in 1959) for new smart switches. I realized that there are some switches that do not require a neutral wire.
Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | for LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6WCL-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kBT2DbJ69HVY7
Maybe an electrician on here can explain this better, but these switches basically leave a trickle of power when turned off to keep the switch working.
My recommendation would be to have a normal switch in A and disconnect all the other switches and wires(you can probably just leave them cold in the wall) and then use pico remotes in the other two locations. They're great because they can screw in right into a standard cover plate. And be placed anywhere since they're battery operated. Sadly they only work with other lutron switches even through a third party hub like a wink hub so you'd have to replace your leviton switch with a lutron one.
Also the dimmable Lutrons don't require a neutral as they basically keep the circuit open just a tiny bit so the can stay powered(think powerdraw of like miliamps) but not enough for the bulbs to turn on.
Switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/
Pico + bracket x 2:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQ0/
https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Wallplate-Bracket-PICO-WBX-ADAPT/dp/B00JZRAFEA/
You can buy them separately if you already have existing ecosystem or you can get this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3XJUAD
Something like this?
Lutron Caseta Wireless In-Wall Dimmer, 600/150-Watt, Single Pole, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lQcAybR2S3GG7
Lutron Caseta PD-6WCL-WH Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch or PD-6ANS-WH Smart Lighting Switch are "single-pole" switches, but they will require L-BDG-WH Caseta Wireless Smart Bridge to function properly.
I believe my wiring is the same. I'm on a Wink hub, and these are what I use:
The dimmer is great because it fits in the wall, but you can't run low-voltage LED lights on it because they use so little electricity that the light will always be faintly on. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLAXFQA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also have an over the top switch. It doesn't look as good, but it works. Also, it makes an electric motor noise as it switches. I personally like the noise because as I tell Alexa "goodbye" I can hear the switch to know for sure that my lights are off as I leave my condo. It does work with the switch and a rocker.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079M178GW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks. I found this one but it appears you still need a hub of some sort...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLAXFQA/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Here you go.
Yes. Here’s more info: Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch Starter Kit, P-BDG-PKG1W, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_doqnDbD8YH17Y
Nice! FYI it’s $84 normally on amazon. smile.amazon.com
This one doesn't require neutral either:
https://smile.amazon.com/LUTRON-P-BDG-PKG1W-Wireless-Lighting-Starter/dp/B00MXCRAX8?sa-no-redirect
Thank you so much for your advice. Would you guess that this works with the LED lights I have in the link in the OP? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=psdc_507840_t1_B00XPW67ZM#
This will do exactly what you want.
LUTRON P-BDG-PKG1W Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Starter Kit: 1 Smart Bridge, 1 In-Wall Smart Dimmer with Wallplate and 1 Pico Remote, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s-dvzb6XKJW7B
If you don't mind the using a dimmer instead of the a switch, you can find the dimmer/hub bundle for not that much more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-P-BDG-PKG1W-In-Wall-Dimmer-Kit-w-Smart-Bridge-White-NEW/323233088576?epid=0&amp;hash=item4b42318440:g:tE0AAOSwreVZzNrL
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-Starter-P-BDG-PKG1W/dp/B00MXCRAX8
I'm in the same boat and just replaced the box with a new, better quality one and installed a regular z-wave switch. It's been working fine.
There are outdoor switches, but they are kinda big. I use one for my pool vacuum.
You could wire up your own with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=235289RK3A9A8V126PZ2
Pricey though...
This is a 40 - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Appliance-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522897057&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0&amp;keywords=20+amp+zwave+switch
This is what I use to control my garage heater https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0
Ignoring the wall plug for a moment, what does the plug on the actual ac look like?
Edit: I'm dumb you posted a picture...
I don't have any good suggestions for a 20 amp appliance but I'll see what I can dig up.
Edit 2: I'm really only finding one other option and it seems even more expensive. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_lhhZBb20AGE7N
It might be worth checking the model of the actual unit. We have two of the same model, one wired for 220v 40 amp and one for 110v 15 amp. Depending it might be as easy as swapping the power cord on the ac which would probably be the cheapest option.
This is really what you are looking for. It has energy monitoring, so you could use that to determine if it is drawing a load, you might even be able to work up some automation to tell you if it has a load during certain hours or if your phone is outside of the house.
I think something like this would work:
GE Z-Wave Plus Direct Wire 40 Amp Smart Switch, Indoor/Outdoor, 120-277V Lighting Appliance Control, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required-Works with SmartThings, Wink, and Alexa, 14285, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y.E9BbGX2TS07
It's just on/off, no temp control. But I don't see why you would want to change the temp remotely, as most water heaters are set it and forget it . But at least with this outlet hub you can definitely turn on and off to save some energy.
That's not going to be rated for the weather and probably not for the power requirements for your application
You'll want something like this, if your transformer draws 40 amps or less https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/
depending on your hub - I have smartthings
you should have several choices
you'll need to figure the max current draw of the fan or the HP
then install the appropriate switch
easiest would be the wall switch and some temp sensors, if it wil handle the load
I have the go control - originally for my old garage door (programmed as a momentary switch) - it will handle 20 amps and is cheap.
GE also has a 40 amp heavy zwave switch - for $150ish
with the smartthings hub you could program time on, time off , on for event, off for event , (event could be window opens , temp specified, etc) and then run time for specific period of time or if temp is satisfied with enough connected things you can control all kinds of things - fan included :)
good luck
direct load good for 20amps
GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=YX3EFBFRGMTV783BT193
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BB38NVA9J8T5JFDE3QTJ
Incandescent - Minimum Load: 40W, Maximum Load: 960W
Motor – 1/2HP
Resistive – 1800W
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting and Appliance Control, 40 Amp, Large Load, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hmm.. maybe it was discontinued... you could also try a Z-wave 40A plug from Amazon. They are usually configurable to 120-277V but cost more. Aeotec might make a cheaper one.
Here's one
I would worry about it costing more to heat it up as others have noted.
If you must - I know GE makes a 40 amp switch that would probably work
https://www.amazon.ca/GE-14285-Z-Wave-Switch-White/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=ge+40+amp+zwave&amp;qid=1574113242&amp;sr=8-1
This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YTCZZF0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks. This is a switch rated for up to 40 amps so there shouldn't be any code violations using this with a 20 amp circuit. You can even connect 2 20 amp circuits into this.
http://z-wave-assets.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/docs/124/B00YTCZZF0_GE_Jasco_40_Amp_Smart_Z-Wave_Switch_12726_Manual.pdf?1490359335
It sounds like you're more disappointed by the aesthetics of the device rather than the function? What would your ideal design be? Would it be modeled off of anything existing today? What kind of functions are you looking for? And what would make use more satisfying?
edi: How do the aesthetics of the Lutron remote compare? https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
You'll want to get the Connected Bulb Remote to run the setup I described. I don't think the other models work the same. If mounting in a wall plate, you'll also need the bracket.
I use this one, it's super simple and easy to use... http://www.amazon.com/GE-45603-Technology-Fluorescent-Appliance/dp/B0013V58HU
You can do this with home automation stuff. You'd need a Z-Wave or Zigbee home controller and then one of these.
I have about 8-10 of these so I can control them with Wink App and now via Home Assistant. They are expensive, but I slowly added them over the last 2-3 years, long before HA. Plus, this allows me to put any kind of dimmable light. You could control your HUE lights with this switch and just turn it on, to power on the lights and then control the lights from the app for more granular control on color etc.
These are Z-wave.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_4?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486623836&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=lutron+dimmer
You may also want to try the lutron dimmer plug you could set different light levels different periods of the day: 11pm-7am 40%; 7am-10:59 100% etc. you can set two homekit automations for when motion detected and when not detected (turn off) for each time period. I’ve found the hue motion sensor to be very responsive in this scenario, make sure firmware is updated.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1P-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY1QG0 (needs hub and it’s worth it)
I'm not familiar with innr ( or most home automation stuff) but why not get the dimmer switch made for lightify?
Your the douchebag for wanting to take old led lights back to Costco, lmao
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https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1W-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY0S4G