(Part 2) Best garage & shop products according to redditors
We found 842 Reddit comments discussing the best garage & shop products. We ranked the 408 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
My personal favorite review: the Blitz 11849 Dispos-Oil. It's a jug for used oil. I quote the review below:
>I have always tried to save money. I buy the cheapest oil and filter for the family vehicles, and I always change it myself. However, I started experiencing the ill effects that all people must deal with from being a "home mechanic", the inevitable dead spots of grass in the backyard.
>
>After some time, the 40-50 qts a year being dumped into the backyard starts to take its toll. I noticed less wildlife, the well water was starting to have an icky taste, and I accidentally started the dirt on fire when my lawn mower hit a rock and made sparks.
>
>I had enough, and I wanted to start helping the environment.
>
>I purchased 24 blitz oil containers from amazon, and I could not be more happy. They are easy to bury, and look great in the ground.
>
>Now to my review of the product:
>
>It is sturdy and lightweight, something I look for in underground burial containers. It easily holds the rated 12 qts of oil, and doesn't appear to leak.
>
>Why not 5 stars?? My only complaint is the width of the product. If blitz would have made it slightly shorter, but also fatter, it would be much easier to put in the ground. I currently have to dig a 22" deep hole which seems kind of silly to me. I have also busted a cap when I was back filling around the container. Blitz should have thought ahead with this design and realized that shovel to cap contact would happen for most people.
>
>I do suggest this for the "tree huggers" and "greenies" out there, as it will make you feel like you're really doing something good for the earth.
One of the best Amazon purchases I've madr. Worth every penny. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FZB3N0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T5m2AbZK2BRP9
Dont destroy any cool/old licence plates!
Use cardboard or get one of these
For real get one of these... Congrats it's now impossible to ever damage your plug. Makes the whole affair cleaner too, just attach some tubing feeding right to the oil drain...
Fumoto F106N FN-Series Drain Valve with Long Nipple with Lever Clip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D995XRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dxviDb58T1R7P
Get wheel chocks even if you have the x-chocks.
I did this at my last house before putting down hardwood floors and can't recommend it highly enough - it's one of the best quality of life improvements I made.
A couple of tips in addition to what OP said:
Once the carpet was up I found all the joists and marked them with a chalk line. This is optional, but meant I didn't have to look for existing nails every few inches... I could turn my brain off and just follow the chalk lines.
I screwed the decking down about every 6 inches. Before I started I cut a scrap piece of wood to that length so I didn't have to measure anything. Just throw the block down next to where your last screw was and screw right into the chalk line at that spot.
To save my knees I used a mechanic's creeping stool, like this. It's still hard on the back, but it helps.
It took me an entire Saturday, and over 450 screws to cover my master bedroom. But it was 100% worth the time investment.
Before putting down the hardwood I put down a quality underlayment - this also cut down on noise.
https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3512-Motorsport/dp/B003TTV972
You can still buy a decent jug. They're still made. People haul those jugs off into the middle of nowhere on off-road vehicles that get beat the fuck up and the jugs endure just fine. They're vented, the caps are really durable, and
they come with a nice long hose spout.Amazon doesn't have the cheapest price on them, you can find them for as low as $24, but the free shipping is a plus.
Edit: I just looked further down the listing and the filler hose is extra, not included. Be sure to get one.
I have a ChargePoint I purchased off Amazon. Works great and connects to my local hydro company to give me cost reports and scheduling. I have no complaints with it.
https://www.amazon.ca/ChargePoint-Connected-Electric-Vehicle-Hardwired/dp/B071YDGJYZ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=chargepoint&qid=1567093583&s=gateway&sr=8-1
This is an old school idea. Fumoto has been making quick drain plugs for decades. Here’s an example:
Fumoto F106N FN-Series Drain Valve with Long Nipple with Lever Clip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D995XRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Pgh1Db7E602XZ
Go for "racing" gas cans. They're exempt from the gas can law's.
https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3512-Motorsport/dp/B003TTV972
These work really well and pretty fast. You would just need some empty gasoline jugs to hold it.
You need some strain relief. Get one of these.
Bastens mobile charger wall... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079RL6XL4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
The NATO Jerry cans are the way to go; they're leak proof and, more importantly, prevent oxygen and moisture from getting into the gas and spoiling it.
You can usually find NATO cans at your local Army Surplus store, but they can be in bad shape. Alternatively, you can get them new here (they say "not for fuel use" but they do have the orange fuel liner inside them--the stamp is for getting around California CARB restrictions) or here.
As for transferring fuel, I use either this (with a funnel) or a "Super Siphon" (this)
Add some Sta-bil to the fuel containers and you've got long-term fuel storage. I've stored gas (treated with Sta-bil) in my NATO cans and when cycled out a year later, the gas was good as new.
Edit: Clarified stuff.
Edit 2: I forgot to mention that with either the Super Siphon or the NATO nozzle, you can empty the 5 gallon can in about 60 seconds. The only nozzle I'd recommend is the NATO nozzle I linked above. I bought it from the same company I linked above and it's been fantastic. Be aware that it will not fit into a standard vehicle gasoline filler neck; you need a funnel for that. The other "NATO" nozzle variant floating around is awful. The black plastic tip (which will fit into a gasoline vehicle filler neck) will break after about the second or third time filling up your car.
The Fumoto valve gets used a lot.
From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.
However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:
Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.
Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.
Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)
Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.
Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.
This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...
Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)
Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.
Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)
Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.
I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.
You all need this..https://www.amazon.com/Form-Funnel-Flexible-Draining-Tool/dp/B010BZ26EQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=form+a+funnel&qid=1562212155&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Use is when I do an oil change on a 6.6 duramax
Here is a wall holster for the handle.
You can search "J1772 Holster" on amazon and you'll get quite a few hits.
J1772 EVSE electric car holster plug holder dock with cable hook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TBW1NRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9oMqzbVMB80PM
Get one of these to transport it to the store. I just walk into the back of any advanced or autozone and dump it in their tank.
You're probably okay to do as you describe. You may wish to get a rubber piece or some wood to prevent damage to the pinch weld though.
I have a piece like this: https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-rubber-MEDIUM/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497976672&sr=8-1&keywords=jack++pinch+weld
In practice though I use my jack for the front cross member without issue. It scrapes the plastic skirts a bit getting under there but it goes.
Yes, I agree. We currently have two different types of fuel containers, and they're both fantastic.
We have one of these which is fantastic for pouring. I don't know why all the stores have those garbage, stiff hoses that end up getting gas everywhere, but this thing is fantastic.
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We also have one of these, which is more expensive, but oh man it is a fantastic piece of work.
Actually, they do make adapters that will fit onto the pinch welds. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Saddle-Adapter-Rocker-DP-Company/dp/B01N1ID2KZ or https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Protector/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=pd_bxgy_2/139-4332485-1348812?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MA232WY&pd_rd_r=73a3427b-60bf-11e9-b2ef-bb2ae37525d6&pd_rd_w=X1N83&pd_rd_wg=tRvUY&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=C93C6VH3BXPWX027P1JQ&psc=1&refRID=C93C6VH3BXPWX027P1JQ Lexus/Toyota write their manuals assuming that you will take your car to a mechanic. I have a Corolla myself and I do all of my own work.
That said, I do have a jack (actually 3), jack stands, and wheel chocks (My car is a manual transmission). I will never work on a car with just the scissor jack.
Edit: One additional line.
That is not actually an issue with HPDE, they actually use it for fuel/automotive containers. Although, some plastics will melt like polystyrene.
https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3512-Motorsport/dp/B003TTV972
Two things I'd reccomend.
Other than that a car jack is a pretty straightforward buy. Picked this one up a few years back at a local shop, for about 145.
Pittsburgh Automotive 3 Ton Heavy Duty Ultra Low Profile Steel Floor Jack with Rapid Pump Quick Lift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LR753T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.yfsDbB1HFPPP
E: user below pointed out there are specific jack pads you can buy. I've had success on every car I've owned with just folding a shop rag and placing that on the jack cup prior to lifting the vehicle. This prevents any slippage and will grip better than the jack on the raw lift point.
E2: I did some more digging and found that the jack points on the model 3 are jackpoint compatible. It would make sense to use recommended pucks and stands that fit the jackpoint hole. You could use something like this with relative ease. http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/home.html Note that i dont own them nor do i work for them.
These are also pretty slick: https://safejacks.com/collections/compact-jack-stands/products/the-rennstand-by-safe-jack-single-unit
It seems to be the consensus that you should only use the 4 designated lift points as the crossmembers are not available to you underneath the vehicle, so you cant get the front up on a single point. This means the jack will occupy the space you need to put the jack stand. Hence the reasoning for linking the two jackable stands.
Not an expert, but
I'd focus on the drive train issues first, get all those tires working, might be a lost cause before going any deeper, but others will have to help with that, I take that kind of stuff to my mechanic.
Brake pedal could be that it's low on brake fluid, or one of the brake calipers is stuck.
My quad has a foot brake like that and a hand brake, but the foot brake only brakes 1 tire. That tire has two brake calipers on it's roter, one to the foot break and one to the hand brake. So the hand brake is all 4 wheels, and the foot brake is 1 wheel. There is a master cylinder on my hand brake and another on my right rear tire (foot brake). If my foot brakes master cylinder runs low or springs a leak, my pedal goes through the floor like in your pic but I'll still have brakes on the hand brake. It's like a double/emergency braking system. If my hand brake goes out I can down shift (engine brake) and lay on that foot brake to brake and not hit a tree...
___
Fuel wise, it's likely carburetor being old. The carburetor should have a primer on it that injects gas into the carb when you press/pull it. Those generally have a diaphragm in them (rubber) that tends to go bad over time and cause a fuel leak.
If you can find a diagram of the carburetor that would help emensely.
Really though, you should take the whole carburetor off, take it apart and give it a bath in carb cleaner (no plastic/rubber in there) and clean all the jets out.
Also, they make rebuild kits for most carb's that come with all new jets, and pilot screw etc. See if you can find one. I typically just replace them all, easier and then I have spares.
Also, inspect the carb's vent hose and make sure it's intact and not clogged. Check the fuel line too, for damage/rot.
You should also remove the gas tank and clean it out. Take the petcock off and inspect the filters and valve, then clean the whole gas tank out so there's no dirt/bad gas in there.
Then check/change the spark plug(s). Before running it though, I'd check the valve clearance on the valves, guides on that online.
Once all that's done, it should run good and not leak gas.
Then you can address your other issues.
Pending how old it is, there are some parts I might replace just because:
If the current ones are working, call them spares.
Starters and solenoids are cheap, voltage regulators OEM are expensive, but you can buy a few after markets pretty cheap to have spares.
Tool wise, I can recommend at least the following:
Then your typical ratchet sets, air tools, impact guns, etc.
And socket extensions (long ones) because getting to some things is a royal pita.
The home charge point charger would do this I think.i think it’s this
I'm going to second this, but add that I use the one with a built-in hose which has been very reliable. Mine have been stored in my non-climate controlled barn for years with no adverse effects. The valve take a bit of practice to get used to using, but not a bother after that. I use an old wine cork to keep bugs and dust out of the hose.
Also note: I only use real gas and a stabilizer in these cans. For the slight extra cost, I can use it in all of my vehicles, farm equipment, and power equipment without worrying about the ethanol content. I buy the stabilizer in bulk from Amazon as well.
The gas station is in front of the grocery store. That's the station I use since my grocery-store rewards card gets me a ~$0.30/gal discount.
So if I'm around 1/4 tank or less, then the next time I need to go to the grocery store I pull into the station first. Fill up. Then I park, which takes maybe another minute since it's 100' away.
It's definitely possible. I don't see how it would be possible for daily plugging/unplugging to only take me 10 seconds unless I was literally just throwing the wire/plug on the floor. But here, I can tell you exactly how long it took my wife this morning since I've got a camera on the driveway...
She puts her hand on the plug, unplugs, walks it back to the garage, whips the cable in to clear the garage door when it closes and plugs it on the dummy-plug on the wall next to the EVSE, then walks back to the driver's door. 16 seconds.
She didn't roll the cable. She didn't have to get the wind out of it (to be fair that doesn't really happen with our 3.8kW EVSE she was plugged into, but the 7.2kW EVSE is another story. And that time obviously doesn't include her plugging it in tonight.
I'd have to be literally racing to plug/unplug to do both in 10 seconds, and I'm still not sure it's possible.
Complaining about either is really meaningless. And like I said, I prefer plugging-in. But time-saving? Not IME.
You don't, you go through the dipstick tube. Only works on some vehicles depending on the baffling in the oil pan. I'm able to use this on my wife's Pacifica but it doesn't work on my Focus.
Great technique. I'd say the only thing I'd add to your arsenal is something to sit on. Future you will thank present you. :)
I have this. Probably one of my best investments aside from the DA.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B000COC67E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524070761&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mechanic+seat+roller&dpPl=1&dpID=51mTq0RTAOL&ref=plSrch
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072MP3N1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wheels can be the time consuming part, but the most fun.
My set-up for wheels & tires:
Tuf Shine Tire Brush:
This is better than Mother's Tire Brush, just does the job better. Obsessed Garage talked about it, it's bound to be good.
SuperClean Degreaser:
I like this one because the smell isn't as strong as Meguiar's Wheel Brightener, and I can use it for both wheel and tires at once. Scott from Dallas Paint Correction & Auto Detailing recommend this one and it's hard to look back after using it. Buy a small bottle first before buying a gallon to see if you like it.
Wheel Woolies:
I hesitated to spend $50 on these brushes, but after buying them I had no regrets. You don't get the splash back from other wheel brushes.
Black Wash Mitt:
I used to use this one but I find that using a black microfiber mitt for the face of the wheel and in between the spokes made it a lot faster, and you can get behind the spokes too. But that brush is useful for lug nuts though.
Creeper Seat: This is a nice to have if you're working on a flat surface. Nice to have but not a necessity.
I use on of these.
Bought mine on AMZN- BOLT 7028648 Hi-Lift Jack Mount for Jeep Wrangler (Black Mount for Driver Side, J-Mount). During the installation, you can fit your Jeep's key to the lock.
This is the guide I followed for replacing my transmission & differential oil. Had to educate myself on jack safety on Youtube as well. First time doing any type of mechanic work and hoping to do more in the near future :0)
Had to go back to the hardware store to return my original floor jack I bought since it was too large to mount to the two main jacking points. Got a low profile jack at a Harbor Freight store instead.
Which begs the question - where do people usually jack up cars that are lowered (springs/coilovers) besides the two main obvious spots shown in the manual? This low profile jack barely clears all the way to the front main jack point. This is without using a car lift at the jack stand points.
Not sure, it’s this one
You can get the hose separately. Grease gun fittings are standardized at 1/8 NPT.
I saw this at Sears last time I was there: https://www.sears.com/dewalt-dcgg5703-24-1-8-inch-npt-grease-gun/p-00916674000P
I got a cheap one at Advance Auto but I would not recommend it. It's starting to crack; I'll move up to the DeWalt one when this one goes. It is also like 10" -- too short in my opinion.
A quick google search tells me FlexZilla makes one too:https://www.amazon.com/Flexzilla-Grease-Hose-Spring-Guard/dp/B06WP9SQRK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537231339&sr=8-3 . I LOVE their air whip hoses, so that might be a good deal.
As an aside, while I was looking on Amazon I saw this: https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-fittings-best-selling-Long-lasting-rebuildable/dp/B00H7LPKKU
If you use grease fittings frequently, it might be worth it. The cheap coupler that came on my hose gets grease EVERYWHERE.
Personally, I will not upgrade until my hose ruptures, but that's because as a hobbyist, I only use a grease gun a few times a year.
Are you getting a 32a to future proof for other EVs/PHEVs?
How important is having a 240v charger right now to you? Can you get away with 120v?
If you're looking at getting a full EV in the next few years, I'd suggest something a little more reputable. The one you linked doesn't have a UL safety listing. Since you already have a 50a breaker (or at least you should, please double check that and the wiring gauge), if you're planning on buying something to use for years to come I'd suggest a Clippercreek with 6-50 plug. CC 40a - $660 or the CC 32a - $590
Or there are a whole plethora of EVSEs out there if you're willing to change the plug type (probably need to reduce the breaker to match the plug using the 80% rule?). They're pretty easy to change if you're handy. You could also pay $55 for an adapter.
If you don't plan on having more than a PHEV with 12a anytime soon, I'd suggest getting something a little cheaper, lower amp rating, and high quality (from what I can tell, don't own one.) The AmazingE would be plenty for you. It's cheaper, UL listed, a lot of internals are made by clippercreek and is very similar to some of the Chevy (IIRC) EVSEs. If my wife changes jobs, the AmazingE will probably be what I buy for her to charge our LEAF at work.
Full disclosure, I don't own a Niro and I'm not an electrician by trade. Check your local codes as needed.
These are pricey but if you deal with gas regularly you'll love them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FZB3N0
probably fell out of a siphon tube like this one https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Siphon-Safe-Multi-Purpose-Priming/dp/B000BG1X54
No problem. And yea they're both quick and easy to do. Heck even the oil change isn't hard, especially with one of these. Yea it's a little pricey, but totally worth it, you don't have to crawl under the car or anything. And for Oil filters I recommend Wix.
Had this one for years and no issues with it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UM9GDM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought a sealable plastic container from Autozone . Drain the oil into a pan, then pour the pan into the container. Any auto parts store will have an oil dump where you can empty the container.
What kind of bike needs a lift for an oil change?
Solid deal right now https://www.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-Automotive-Heavy-Ultra-Profile/dp/B00LR753T8/ref=sr_1_5?crid=13F47ITVMCJXO&keywords=jack+lift+car&qid=1572704169&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&sprefix=jack+lift%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-5
My father got a Craftsman version of this lift: https://www.amazon.com/PowerZone-380047-1700-Hydraulic-Motorcycle/dp/B003UM9GDM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=atv+lift&qid=1554752971&s=gateway&sr=8-3 It works really well for getting it off the ground. It doesn't work well for oil changes, but great for getting the rear wheel out.
There are plenty of cheap EVSEs.
The off-brand 16A "AmazingE" is only $221 USD.
The necessary safety components such as built-in GCFI for high-wattage and subsequent certifications adds to the cost. (The AmazingE is not UL/CSA/etc. certified).
Risking one's $20K+ EV/PHEV over a few hundred extra dollars is foolish.
Here are 4 options, and the electrical is pretty basic and can be very cheap if your power box is near your driveway. It is like putting in another stove plug or less. I'm building my own house and I've set up for when I buy an EV. My guess is if things are right you can get it in for $1,500 and then get the rebate back for 75%.
https://www.amazon.ca/EVoCharge-Certified-Connector-Hardwire-Warranty/dp/B00FVE9Z6U
https://www.amazon.ca/AeroVironment-Charger-240V-Amp-Cable/dp/B00AAKQWKM
https://www.amazon.ca/ChargePoint-Connected-Electric-Vehicle-Hardwired/dp/B071YDGJYZ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=97V0HEZGHG41RQ4A7YW6 and a wifi one.
https://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-EVR30-B18-Evr-Green-208-240Vac-Hardwired/dp/B01MY70I8N/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NMF82DPMY2RXV7WPCJG1
Torin TR6300 Creeper Seat
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COC67E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Well worth the $26 on amazon. Single best thing I have bought to use on long details the last few months. I do wish the wheels were a little larger to roll over cracks in the driveway a little better but still really nice.
Something like this would do fine: https://www.amazon.com/Torin-T10152-Scissor-Jack-1-5/dp/B004PX8BC2
Get one of these:
http://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-11849-Dispos-Oil-Recycle/dp/B0014FKI1Q
and one of these:
http://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-10709-Spill-Funnel/dp/B000EH4V18/
Read and learn this guide:
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Bio-Diesel
Buy one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/vw-jetta-tdi
Pour in your tank.
Profit.
Also, since you are on the 2nd floor and above, you probably want to learn to take the stairs or something to even out the deep fried candy.
Edit: Forgot, be sure to put an Apple sticker and/or a Linux Fish on the back of your VW for full credit.
I made a set out of 2x12s with no issues. Couple things to remember though, make sure your "steps" are long enough to fit the entire tire contact patch, a stop at the end to prevent from driving off the ramps, and actual wheel chocks to prevent the car from rolling.
I'd suggest something like this instead.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazingE-1001-0015-B-Charging-Wall-Mount-Connector/dp/B072MP3N1Y/
You can if you want.
I helped to develop a product for this a few years ago.
Bastens Mobile Charger Wall Holder for The Tesla Model S 3 X Y to Relieve Stress on Wall Plug in Addition a Clean Look w/Ease of Quick Removal from Wall https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079RL6XL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EBa1CbEHT3M88
I like having the Chargepoint because I already use the app for their public stations.
ChargePoint
Also make sure that you are on as level ground as possible. Those small jacks that are included with the car are flimsy and can/will tip over with very little side to side movement. At the very least, use a large rock or something similar to act as a wheel chock so there's less chance of movement. Even if you loosen the lug nuts while the tire is touching the ground, you may have to kick the wheel off if it's stuck to the hub while it's in the air.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-44414-Wheel-Without-Trailer/dp/B00K1C1WC2
Torin T10152 Big Red Steel Scissor Jack, 1.5 Ton Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PX8BC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W5puzbYSS6Q5W
This'll'do'er
We have a driveway situation for the 500e too. Our charger is plugged in a basement room with the charger cable fed through a wood panel (where a window used to be). I got a charger dock to hold the charger handle. It works great.
I’m confident you’ll be good, but I’ll measure it for you later tonight.
Been a mechanic all my life.
It kills me to pay someone to work on my car if I can do it.
Forget the ramps and get this. Stick the tube down the dipstick tube, pump or connect to air hose, and viola!
You may still need ramps to get to the oil filter, but Mercedes has spoiled me; the filter is on top.
Makes life so much easier and less messy!
Add an holster plug next to it to properly secure the cable connector while not in use.
Something like J1772 EVSE electric car holster plug holder dock with cable hook.
I have this can (red) and this hose. My dad used them for our dirtbikes when I was growing up so there's a bit of nostalgia in them for me.
Here is the link
Form-A-Funnel
just gunna leave this here for you: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H7LPKKU
Great! I bet if you look under the car, behind the front wheel or in front of the rear wheel, inside of the side skirts or other plastic moulding, right near the pinch welds, you'll see some triangle arrows stamped/marked/notched out.
Also, you may be interested in something like this for your jack:
https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Medium/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510856163&sr=8-3&keywords=pinch+weld+jack+pad
Cord goes around a hose reel, connector plugged into AmazingE 1001-0015-B EV Charging Station SAE J1772 Wall-Mount Connector Holster.
https://imgur.com/51PLq27
Thanks for the post. As someone who is a new homeowner in FL and lived here through Matthew and Irma but not through mass devastation, this helps me understand what that looks like.
Your comments about tire repair struck me. I am planning on ordering this well-reviewed plugger. What air pump do you have?
In regards to cleanliness I keep some body wipes too, but for helping larger amounts of people I definitely see the value of the shower + soap.
For the gas can, check out this one - much safer than the plastic cans and I am very happy with the flexibility of the nozzle. I'll likely get a long funnel for it too, just in case.
Its the EWK Pneumatic/Manualoil pump. Allows oil changes to be done in minutes without jacking up a low car. Extracts oil via built in hand pump or pneumatic hose through the dipstick pipe. Dont have to worry about spilling oil when transporting it for disposal either. Makes life a little more simple. No sponsored or anything, just some food for thought.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD64H8Z
https://www.amazon.com/d/Grease-Guns/LockNLube-fittings-best-selling-Long-lasting-rebuildable/B00H7LPKKU
The one I purchased, haven’t had a problem with it yet.
I just ordered supplies from Amazon and would love feedback. I decided to go for a scissor jack, though that seems somewhat controversial in the DIY cider press world. The travel is amazing, they are light, cheap and I can operate it with a cordless drill.
Another big question is this 50 quart steamer basket. Cheap, but will it hold up to the strain? I guess the good news is that by going big now (12 gallons!), I can always downsize later.
I'm looking at mounting the disposal in a plastic tub, supported by a wood frame. I'm still working on the design (and will post here, with credit to you knockfer, when its done!).
Finally, instead of the very cool wood drainage platform you made, I'm opting for a simpler cutting board, and will drill a hole and attach a tube for drainage. Still figuring out that detail.
I'd welcome any thoughts about all this, and am so grateful for your inspiration! I'd never heard of using a garbage disposal as a chopper before. My wife is going to love this!
That is interesting, but I did just buy this
I bought this one to use with the 120 volt EVSE that came with the car.
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https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00TBW1NRM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A bluetooth OBD 2 reader and an Android code reader.
Other than that, a creeper
I bought this off of Amazon... works nicely.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079RL6XL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OpIkDbVP6TFCJ
Mine is mounted on my driver side A pillar, the only noise it makes is whistling in the wind.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AXDWOW0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GH1PTG
Use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Siphon-Safe-Multi-Purpose-Priming/dp/B000BG1X54
Yup. They pop off and then the jack can get to the pinch weld. Make sure to use a pinch weld adapter if you are using a normal floor jack.
Its not for everyone, but i have mine mounted to the a pillar, it makes no noise at all, and unless im really looking, i cant see it. Its also keyed to my jeeps key, so its locked up too. Maybe worth checking out. Here is a link to the actual product.
BOLT 7028648 Hi-Lift Jack Mount for Jeep Wrangler (Black Mount for Driver Side, J-Mount) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AXDWOW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_eRLNnRJ9DNQco
The lugs are the same size(21mm) and the jack will work, the Prius hasn't gotten much heavier in the past few years. So any tire iron that's 21mm will work, and any jack that is rated to lift 3100lb will work.
However if I had a chance, I would get an aftermarket jack that will be more reliable than the stock ones. This looks like a good option. Hell, put that together with this wrench and you'll be set. Can't get much cheaper than $30 for this stuff.
Buy some wheel chocks.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-44414-Wheel-Without-Trailer/dp/B00K1C1WC2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542583323&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wheel+chocks&psc=1
$120 on amazon
Everything for a Jeep is expensive lol.
Thanks, this one fits ? Fumoto F106N FN-Series Drain Valve with Long Nipple with Lever Clip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D995XRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LFHVDb6RZ4WTK
which hi-lift jack mount do you have, and what do you think of it? i am looking at the BOLT jack mount, since it locks with the ignition key.. amazon link
EDIT: should add, I currently have the hood mount, but it gets in the way of my windshield washer jets, which is a bummer. the AEV rear bumper and tire carrier are on the longer term list but i want something short term...
This is the one we use. It's installed outdoors and there are no issues.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazingE-1001-0015-B-Charging-Wall-Mount-Connector/dp/B072MP3N1Y
It's pretty clear that you can buy one of the adapter cables I showed from Amazon and never realize that you're doing something “wrong”. Buying an extension cable is not really “electrical work”.
But for those who worry, please do provide a link to some of these “cheap” UL-certified adapters. The Amazing-e is $257, which isn't nearly as cheap as getting an adapter cable.
(Buying a non-UL certified cheap adapter may be worse for risking your house burning down than the adapter-cable on stock-EVSE approach.)
Go to a coin op wash bay with heated sprayers and do a wash with your own soap, bucket, and mitt when you can. Dry with a water magnet towel before driving off and shouldn't be a problem.
Pro tip, bring your own water for filling the bucket to save time and money; I carry mine in a clean jug like this.
Is there a good wall bracket/holder for the Gen2 mobile charger? Something like this thing that isn't overpriced?
J1772 EVSE electric car holster plug holder dock with cable hook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TBW1NRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2r5IDb2RB5DNY
🤷🏼♂️
You could use a siphon, this one is nice, but it's up to you.
https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Siphon-Safe-Multi-Purpose-Priming/dp/B000BG1X54/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000BG1X54&pd_rd_r=XWCVJD41NX5A5PW7R86W&pd_rd_w=DNCYy&pd_rd_wg=c1NOC&psc=1&refRID=XWCVJD41NX5A5PW7R86W
You really do want the swingarm to be unsupported to properly adjust the chain.
I recommend getting a motorcycle jack. It's basically a cradle that gets the wheels off the ground.
Here's an example of one from Amazon.
Kyle from SeaCoast is in this great video on adjusting the chain on a SSS Ducati. He really knows his stuff.
Ducati Single sided swingarm chain adjustment.
Here's Chris from California Cycleworks as well.
But yes, you can use a floor jack. I'd put a block of wood or something between the jack and the cases so you don't scratch anything, though. You might have some issues with the exhaust header but ideally you'll have the front chocked or on a stand and then put the floor jack under the motor to get the rear wheel off the ground. You don't need much height.
Very doable. Make sure you follow the chain adjustment procedure from the videos! You can chew up a chain and cause damage to your sprockets and possibly your cases if the chain ends up too tight or too loose.
It'll be far easier to fix and maintain a generator than it would be to do the same thing with a car. Cars are complex and have tens of thousands of parts whereas a generator is simple and can be easily fixed with cheap parts.
You'll spend $3k+ on a car and end up with extremely poor comparative fuel efficiency and costly maintenance while not even being able to power a fridge. In the end, you'll generate even less electricity than a simple $500 dedicated generator would. You gotta trust us all, you're in a car community. We're all telling you that cars make abysmally terrible electric generators.
If you get a generator that is powered by gas or diesel, get one of these and a filler hose. All you gotta do is fill up that thing like you'd fill up a car. Easy peasy
He's saying jack the rear wheels and put them on jackstands, then place something like this on both sides of one of the front wheels to stop from being able to roll in either direction.