Best gun lubrication products according to redditors
We found 108 Reddit comments discussing the best gun lubrication products. We ranked the 42 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 108 Reddit comments discussing the best gun lubrication products. We ranked the 42 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I use Frog Lube
It works remarkably well, smells minty fresh, and is even edible!
I got a steak in the fridge marinating in it now!
This is a goddamn joke, anyone reading this comment has been forwarned. But seriously it's edible.
My FFL gave me a can of this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Pig-Lube-Lubricant-Particle-Technology/dp/B0763RHVTJ
Actually smells like you are cooking bacon after it heats up.
As a gun guy, its kinda weird since this is gun oil
https://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-No-Lubricating-Oil-Bottle/dp/B000PW64JY
As others have said, that is a valuable piece of history. Help your grandma preserve it and get her a more utilitarian piece for self defense. Glock 17, CZP07, used .38 revolver, or a RIA 1911 would be good budget concious choices.
Also get her proper defensive ammunition for it, the rounds in your photos are full metal jacket. They are appropriate for practice, but are not ideal for defensive use. Get rounds marked Jacketed Hollow Point (JHP), they will both be more effective and reduce the odds of overpenetration.
The oddly shaped rounds in your photos are Full Metal Jacket Semi-Wadcutters. They make nice clean holes in target paper. Just like the round nose full metal jacket rounds, they are not ideal for defensive use and should be replaced with JHP for defensive purposes.
This video will show you how to field strip the gun. Follow its instructions, then wipe down all surfaces with gun oil and a cotton rag. Re-assembly is also shown in the video.
Is this your first house? Every year you should oil the hinges, don't use WD40. I use this. Just apply two or three drops to the top of the pin and gravity does the rest, keep a paper towel handy for drips.
Another food safe option is Frog Lube.
http://www.amazon.com/FROGLUBE-Brand-PREMIUM-Lubricant-Liquid/dp/B003ZW0LXQ 4oz liquid and 4 oz paste for under $35
EDIT: cheaper
http://www.amazon.com/Frog-Lube-Liquid-Bottle-4-Ounce/dp/B00579HNK4
http://www.amazon.com/Froglube-Paste-Cleaner-Lubricant-Protectant/dp/B004FOV89E
I love Hoppe's for barrels and honestly the smell. I use ballistol to spray down internals and do the scrubbing/crevices and all that stuff. Then when the piece is all assembled and wiped down and ballistol/hoppe's free I run a microfiber with CLP on it over everything for a nice dull sheen that doesn't leave any residue.
Link to CLP: https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-Grease-Non-Toxic-CLP-OZ/dp/B013A8FVNE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537498476&sr=8-2&keywords=grizzly+clp
https://www.amazon.com/Pig-Lube-Lubricant-Particle-Technology/dp/B0763RHVTJ
I just did this the other day after watching the hickok45 video. Here's what I bought:
Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil, Aerosol spray, 6 oz - $8.99 (http://www.amazon.com/Ballistol-Multi-Purpose-Oil-Aerosol-spray/dp/B004ERKCIA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00)
UTG 9MM Pistol Cleaning Kit - $9.80 (http://www.amazon.com/UTG-9MM-Pistol-Cleaning-Kit/dp/B002ZJ1364?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02)
The Professional's Choice Pistol/Rifle Cotton Flannel 2 3/4-Inch Round Gun Cleaning Patches (120-Pack), .38/.357-Calibre/9mm/10mm - $4.49 (http://www.amazon.com/Professionals-Choice-Cleaning-120-Pack-357-Calibre/dp/B005TJWQ4A?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02)
The Patches and actual cleaning kit showed up today. Kit seems to be decent for what it costs. Ballistol will be here on Wednesday. I think the Patches require that you spend $25 (add-on item) so you may have to add something else to get up to the price to get them. Or you can just get a bigger package of them.
i use hops9, cheap and effective
My kit
Real Avid Handgun Smart Mat-19-inch by 16-inch Handgun Cleaning Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0185PB8AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_WuTl343G4CERJ
Hoppe's 24002 BoreSnake Pistol and Revolver Bore Cleaner, 9mm, .357, .380, .38 Caliber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013RKHJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Bre6MnkuW1npv
Birchwood Casey Gun Cleaning Patch for 2 1/4" Square 9 mm/.38/.45 Caliber (Pack of 500) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TD0UEGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_8wvVvfu8z14rN
Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner Spray Bottle, 8 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013RA3A6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_o5oHvt8b7y27O
Hoppe's No. 9 Gun Grease, 1-3/4 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PW5ZGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_HI2YuNyqeJeOt
Hoppe's No. 9 Lubricating Oil, 14.9 ml Precision Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013R67A6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_i8emEskpQydLM
SE 7624BC-5 Gun Cleaning Set with 3 Brushes & 2 Double-Ended Picks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009HD0R86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_e675klKxRfh9s
Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil, Aerosol spray, 6 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ERKCIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_QH46NYitYG8Xb
Hoppe's No. 9, 9-Piece Pistol Cleaning Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8S0D2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_e30bzbRXP7JAR
(Tapered and Regular Tip) Type-III 100pc Gun Cleaning 6 Inch American Made Cotton Swabs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CPU4JW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_OcSPLNbBbOo6M
I also picked up some cans of compressed air at Walmart
I would say the higher price is mainly marketing. The rumors are that Froglube is coconut oil based with additives to make it more suited to lubing metal parts. Nothing wrong with this per say, but I would rather pay less for a big can of Ballistol which can be used as a cleaner, lubricant, and preservant all while still being non toxic. Plus it's been in constant use for over a century.
Ballistol, PB Blaster and White Lightning.
So this review on Amazon is what my buying guide will consist of. My apologies for formatting, I am on mobile.
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I'm new to reloading, but I shoot a lot so instead of doing what every beginner should and buy a single stage press I saved up a little and got the AP press due to the fact I knew I would use it a lot. But after it came I quickly realized it was far more technical than I expected. I found out there were a lot of parts I still needed and a lot more money that still needed to be spent. I was fine with it bet I knew I would have to save up for a little bit to get it all. But after about 100 hours of reloading YouTube videos and four months I was able to actually start reloading. Wishing I had a guide right off the bat to tell me what I need and why I ended up making one for any other new beginner. So here it is.
Disclaimer: Do not follow my advice blindly, do your research on each piece of equipment. The prices I have stated are not set in stone, they were what I spent. I would advise you to shop around to get the best deals
--------------------------------------------------
What you still need:
--Hornady Lock N Load Auto-Progressive Reloading Press
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD01NS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$462.64
Notes: Does not have to be this press
--Hornady Lock N Load Ap & Projector Shell Plate
http://www.hornady.com/store/Choose-Shell-Plate-by-Number/
$41.33
Notes: Each shell plate is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct plate for the caliber you are reloading. Here is the guide http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/shell_holder.pdf
--Hornady Shell Holder
http://www.hornady.com/store/Choose-Shell-Holder-by-Number/
$5.00
Notes: Each shell holder is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct holder for the caliber you are reloading. Although RCBS makes a similar looking holder, it will NOT fit in the Hornady setup. Here is the guide http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/shell_holder.pdf
--Reloading Dies
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD6PO2/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$43.89
Notes: All reloading dies from all companies are universal to each other's presses. So you don't have to stick to Hornadys dies (I do because I like them)
--Digital Scale
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$29.14
Notes: Digital scales are a little more expensive bet worth it for the time you save
--Digital Caliper
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JFMIO/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$10.60
Notes: Digital calipers are convenient for speed but if money is tight you can go traditional
--Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner & Dry Lube
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Shot-Cleaner-DynaGlide-Aerosol/dp/B000LC9YM2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375560230&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+gun+cleaner
$13.28
Notes: Used when you put the press together and clean all the parts
--Hornady One Shot Spray Case Lube
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Shot-Spray-DynaGlide-Aerosol/dp/B0001NA29U/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375560743&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+case+lube
$13.44
Notes: This or any case lube is an absolute need or your rounds will get stuck in the die. This one is cool because you don't have to wipe it off after you deprime and resize so if you have an AP bench like mine you can just keep going.
--Case Trimmer
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-50140-Camlock-Case-Trimmer/dp/B000PD6QJ6/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561942&sr=1-7&keywords=case+trimmer
$88.99
Notes: This will trim the case down to size. Needed because after firing the case expands
--Cartridge Reloading Guide
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Edition-Handbook-Cartridge-Reloading/dp/B00A95QWGM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375563579&sr=8-2&keywords=Reloading+guide
$39.80
Notes: Tells you the specifics of each round. There is a different manual for each projectile. So if you use Hornady bullets you will use their guide, RCBS you you'd use theirs, etc.
----------------------------------------------------
What you need to clean the brass:
--Case Tumbler
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Case-Tumbler-110-Volt/dp/B000PD1XE4/ref=sr_1_17?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375559938&sr=1-17&keywords=media+tumbler
$83.58
Used to remove the carbon from the rounds. I advise not to deprime before use because the media will get stuck in the primer hole.
--Tumbling Media
http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-287178-Brass-Cleaning/dp/B001GX8DS6/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561385&sr=1-4&keywords=tumbling+media
$20.10
The corn cob media is a little more fine grain and less likely to get stuck
--Metal Polish
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-9993-Case-Polish/dp/B002L9D8VQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561809&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+metal+polish
$14.17
You would put this in the tumbler with the rounds to give them a nice polish
--------------------------------------------------------------
What I would recommend:
--Bullet Puller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$17.15
Used when you mess up a round, it pulls the projectile out
--Primer Turning Plate
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPL80Q/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$17.56
used to make sure the primers are set the right way before you put them in the primer tube
--Universal Ammo Reloading Tray
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-1536-480040-Universal-Loading/dp/B000GU8WU4/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1375559333&sr=8-3-fkmr2&keywords=universal+ammo+reloading+tray
$11.38
Used to hold your rounds for inspection, and helps with precision loading powder
--Case Prep Tool
http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Universal-Case-Prep-Accessory/dp/B0034LAVUG/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375562159&sr=1-2&keywords=case+prep+tool
$55.79
This is used after depriming and trimming to make sure all the holes are clean and free of debris
--Stuck Case Remover
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6ZJQ6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$18.99
Used in case you get a round stuck in the die
--Hornady Micrometer Rifle Lock N Load Powder Measure
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O1WOJ2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$27.99
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for rifle calibers
--Hornady Micrometer Pistol Lock N Load Powder Measure
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPR300/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$39.89
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for pistol calibers
--Powder Cop
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003D6ZLXE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$30.57
Used to make sure you don't put more powder in than you should
--Hornady Lock N Load Die Bushing 10 Pack
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Bushing-Pack/dp/B00162OLTW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375563887&sr=8-1&keywords=Hornady+AP+die+bushing
$42.22
Would recommend if you are reloading multiple calibers, it makes change over much faster.
---------------------------------------------------
What you need for precision loading:
--Hornady Lock N Load Ammo Concentricity Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KZ3NNK/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$99.99
Only needed for precision reloading
--Powder Funnel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD1XI0/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$5.78
Used for more of an exact measurement
--Hornady Microjust Seating Stem
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GU9VU4/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$24.99
Used to get an exact seating depth with the projectile
-----------------------------
I hope this helps! I will be making some tutorial videos soon and will post a link here.
Ballistol is magical. And it smells nice too.
Mil-Comm TW25B
I use "Grizzly Grease" it's basically a thick CLP grease so carbon comes right off when you clean. It smells minty and is non toxic.
I adore it and use it on my AR and all my pistols.
Highly recommend.
link
Pads
Polish
Wipes
Great first purchase!
Might I recommend http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A47AIL0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687702&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001O2L80E&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1MTB86SG05N5AGNGZ0HP
Also, for cleaning and maintenance, I find ballistol and a crownsaver to be all you really need, until you are ready for a lube tune (which are easier than a lot of people expect). I am all thumbs when it comes to mechanical things, but I've torn down my HW95 and R9 a few times. They are probably some of THE EASIEST springers to work on, but a hatsan m95 shouldn't be too far from those.
Ballistol is good for cleaning the barrel, and general wipedowns.
Break in period can vary widely, from 20 shots to 500. I would use good pellets, so you can more accurately monitor when your gun starts to settle. If it isn't dieseling a lot, you'll probably have a short break in. If it is dieseling a lot, I would probably recommend a lube tune to just clean that gunk out...
Plus one for the WD40. I have this knife! Hope it comes off for you. If the WD40 doesn't work, try CLP.
http://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Trigger/dp/B0050GW86S
I typically clean my guns after any range trip, but I am not as OCD about it as I was trained to be.
One thing I do always use is some form of a CLP. I like using something like that because if I leave a little behind in some hard-to-clean area of the gun, it will still provide an oil-like protective film. I cringe when I hear people use something like brake cleaner on their guns to de-grease them. If they miss a spot oiling/lubing afterward they have left bare metal exposed - pretty much guaranteed to rust.
Break-Free - was always a good stand by.
Tri-Flow - is similar to Break Free, I just seem to like it better (once heard it was created by one of the two original Break Free partners after their split. Not sure of the validity of that story.).
Strike Hold - This is just the best of the bunch. It does all it is supposed to: penetrates well, makes it easy to clean the gun, and it provides stellar protection after wiping it all down when finishing up. You could use just this and do well for your guns.
Ballistol - no long-term assessment yet. I seem to still reach right past the Ballistol can and grab the Strike Hold spray bottle. I suppose one of these days I will have to make a serious attempt at learning for myself if this is the way to go.
Others have made some great suggestions. I would add to those lists--
a big can of some high quality lubricant, I like Ballistol for all kinds of cleaning/protecting/lubricating things, but there plenty of other kinds on the market.
Duct tape
Electrical tape
A caulk gun, and a few tubes--plain old "painter's caulk" and a waterproof caulk for windows, doors, and bathroom water infiltration areas. --- and a lesson on how and where to use them.
AND, maybe a nice book, with lots of pictures, for how to do lots of varied home repairs and upgrades, perhaps something like this: Reader's Digest New Complete DIY Manual
Thanks. I used this shaft coupler from SparkFun and this panel bearing from Mouser. The actual extension is just 4.1" of 1/4" diameter 316L steel rod stock. Even though the knob on the pot is 6mm, I went with 1/4" on the extension because I couldn't find a 6mm panel bearing on Mouser; they have a lot more knobs available for 1/4" shafts as well. One trick I learned while doing this was to keep the PCB loose on the bottom panel until the shaft extension was in place; it allows the PCB to shift a little to accommodate alignment. The knobfeel felt a little rough on the extension until I applied some synthetic grease to the contact areas. Now it feels pretty smooth.
G96
Remember, it's not a protectant, though it's not as bad as a light oil (e.g. RemOil). Eezox is a better multi-purpose cleaner/protectant. If you want to reduce the number of products that you use, you can use Eezox in conjunction with G96.
http://amzn.com/B002T1ZW2E
TLDR: Both the P229 and P226 with E2 grips will probably fit you great, and the 9mm is an excellent choice for home defense and your first handgun in general.
Hey I have smaller/thinner hands as well. The E2 grips really have made my full sized p226 that I just bought enjoyable. I've had it no more than 2 weeks (roughly 600 rounds through it) and I'm already exceptionally comfortable with it. The ergonomics of the gun is great. Stick with the P226 or P229 DA/SA. It takes a little bit of practice to master the trigger, but honestly that's one of the charms of a Sig. It's a tool that in skilled hands can be devastating, and the challenge is a great drive in regards to becoming an overall better marksman. They are tried and true guns that have worked well for years. A family member has owned a P229 .40 for over 10 years now and it still functions beautifully. It was the reason I fell in love with the brand. The heft of the gun, and it's balance just feels so much better than my gen 3 G17 (which is a great firearm in it's own right.)
I would really suggest a 9mm for your first handgun. And the P226. The longer barrel, and the slightly heavier frame/slide will really make it easy to deal with the recoil despite the fact that sigs tend to have a high bore axis compared to a lot of their polymer competitors. 9mm ammo is easy to find in bulk at good prices, and doesn't kill your wallet as you practice and get used to handling the firearm. Plus if you have to use your handgun for home defense (or even carry,) the ballistics of 9mm defensive rounds these days is pretty comparable to their .40 and .45 counterparts. Plus more rounds is always a bonus
The specific gun I recently purchased was this one with the item number E26R-9-BSS. I haven't used the magazines that shipped with it. Instead I bought some 18 round Mec Gar p226 9mm magazines and they work exceptionally well. In my opinion, the night sights are a must. They work well during daylight hours as a triple dot system and at night perform flawlessly. I am even tempted to upgrade my family members old p229 with the new Sig night sights because I love them so much.
I can't respond to #2 because I have had zero problems with my P226, my family's P229 or my P938.
note Grab yourself some synthetic grease for your P226/P229. Mil-Comm TW25B Grease is what I have been using on all my Sig's now and it really seems to be an improvement over just using CLP on the high friction points between the Frame and Slide.
I just cleaned my ar15 for the first time I'll add my input.
Here are some generic boresnakes. They about 5 days to ship so order them now if you need to clean soon. I don't really understand boresnakes unless you have legit dirt in your barrel that you want out or need to clean it at the range (which seems unnecessary for an AR) because they aren't a substitute for cleaning but some generic ones won't hurt the wallet too bad.
Just make sure you get a cleaning rod (I got a universal rod but I wish I would've just went with a one piece rod so I don't have to keep tightening it) with some brushes for the bores and maybe the chambers too but anything can clean them.
I ordered M-Pro 7 for a cleaner, it works, I've only used it once so can't comment on this or that about it.
For lube, I ordered Slip2000 EWG grease and followed Mr2ndAmendment's guide to lubing it.
And then some cleaning patches.
I still need some bore brushes for my SKS and AR and I'll probably get another cleaning rod. Also I would find something to put it all in because there will be a lot pieces if you don't buy a kit that includes it all. I would make sure whatever you buy, you can clean all your weapons equally.
How many builds have you done, sir? With the Grease/Loc-tite combo? Grease I bought was this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGQMF54/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here yah go
The cleaner, although I wonder if there is any difference between the two. https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Shot-Cleaner-DynaGlide-Aerosol/dp/B000LC9YM2
Umbrella Corporation AeroShell 33MS / 64 Gun Grease .5oz / Mil-Spec for Barrel Nut Thread https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGQMF54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pm-KDbXFD5DP1
Everyone swears by it, I use it too and it’s worked well. Not sure if there is a cheaper equivalent but like u/cakan4444 said, it will do several builds just applying to the barrel extension
Edit and threads of barrel nut.
There are no stupid questions! I like to use Hoppe's Gun Oil on my vintage long arms. But any gun oil will do the trick, the point is to slow and halt oxidation as much as possible. I would not use a washcloth, because the loose weave wont do you any favors, but a soft cotton fabric, like an old but clean t-shirt, will do the trick.
Here's some Hoppe's: http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-No-Lubricating-Oil-Bottle/dp/B000PW64JY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420668942&sr=8-4&keywords=hoppes
For a CLP, I've been using Gunzilla to good effect. Remington's BriteBore aerosol is another low odor option. You can often get that at Walmart here in Canada.
For the SKS, I prefer a brass brush or a bore snake. Amazon.ca is your firearms accessory friend. Also, as most SKS ammunition seems to be corrosive, I'd hold off on firing it until you have the needed cleaning supplies handy. Leaving it uncleaned will cause rust as I hope you already know.
The Savage MkII bolt... light oil, I spray it with a bit of CLP and wipe off the excess. I also use a clp and a nylon brush to clean the bold face and extractor hook.
Bore guide? I use brass rods which are softer than the metal of the barrel. I expect aluminium ones might be OK, but I'm unsure of how hard aluminium oxide is, and if that might be an issue.
Also, for .22 cal a rod end / patch loop... I have a strong preference for the Hoppes brand. It will let you use the butch triple twill cleaning patches... they won't go down a .22 barrel with an outer's brand loop end, which, IMO, sucks.
I've only been into shooting for about a year now. It's a great sport!
I'm a big fan of the Pro Shot Universal Kit. It's pretty much got everything you need and it comes in a nice sturdy case.
My one recommendation would be to ditch the oil that comes with it and get yourself some Frog Lube. It does a great job and leaves your guns smelling minty fresh.
Also towels as others have mentioned.
Edit: formatting and more words
Flitz Metal Polish for the bore; Break Free CLP for the inside of the gun; and FrogLube paste as an exterior protectant.
On my Glocks I usually use one of THESE. (I throw the slotted tip and the jag away, and use only the brush with cotton patches (occasionally) wrapped around it.)
NOTHING CLEANS A PISTOL BARREL, ABOVE 22 CALIBER, FASTER OR BETTER - NOTHING!
I, also, keep a carbon steel, 'Squirrel Daddy' Miniature Glock Tool in the handle along with a thin-bladed, narrow profile screwdriver.
I carry; so I clean my Glock BEFORE I leave the range and won't holster a dirty pistol that hasn't also been function checked. I've been working on guns for 50 + years; and I use them hard. At one time, or another I've seen it all. These guys who like to brag and post crap about (almost) never cleaning their Glocks are just plain IGF idiots; and I'm sure that Smyrna would tell them so, too.
Neither is there any good or necessary reason, whatsoever, to leave the Loctite C5-A Anti-Seize Compound (the, 'gold-colored grease') inside your Glock after you've purchased it and brought it home. The C5-A is there to: (1) Protect a Glock from corrosion between the dissimilar metals of the slide and connector tab during PROLONGED distributor storage, and (2) guarantee that a new, possibly uncleaned, and unlubricated Glock pistol will go, 'Bang!' the first time it is used.
Once the Glock pistol is put into service and receives regular maintenance you no longer need the grease - Period.
https://www.amazon.com/Slip2000-60341-Slip-2000-4oz/dp/B0064VHKTI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541378936&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=slip2000%2Bewl&dpPl=1&dpID=41FY-%2BXEcZL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
I cleaned, put some on bolt, carrier, inside upper, firing pin, hammer face, chamber, locking lugs, charging handle, etc
I love BCM Gunfighters charging handles, and good call on the CTR stock. Do yourself a favor and Frog Lube that BCG a couple of times while you're waiting.
Ballistol, Cleaning Patches, Brushes, Barrel Brush, and an extra Cleaning Rod
Make sure to use Aeroshell 33ms on the barrel (1/2oz is enough for about a dozen builds)... Some build videos say to use anti-seize, which is usually copper and/or graphite based and a big no-no because it could cause galvanic corrosion. Do you have a vice and workbench? This upper and lower block set was cheap and worked fine for me. You'll need an armorer's wrench... Don't go $5 cheap, but there's no reason to buy a $50 one.
>"mediocre bandaid" source please
If your gun will only run with special gourmet lubricant, lubricant isn't your problem. That should be pretty self-evident.
I'm not saying it's ineffective. I'm challenging the assertion that it's so much better than everything else. All this guy's comparing it to is CLP, which doesn't do any one thing particularly well; its only advantage is that grunts only have to use one substance for everything.
The good USPSA shooters around these parts lube their fancy space blasters with Mobil 1; that's $10 for a lifetime worth of gun lubrication. I'm skeptical that it's worth spending $30 for 8oz of minty-smelling goop.
Guns aren't a particularly demanding application for lubricants, so IDK why people feel like they need to spend all this money on exotic lubricant concoctions. If Frog Lube gives you extra confidence in your guns' reliability then use it. Mine all work great with stuff I bought at the auto parts store.
Use Ballistol, buy it on amazon. Works great for preventing rust and neutralizing corrosive ammo salts. I use it on my Mosin and my muzzleloader.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004ERKCIA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405187862&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40
Here ya go, http://www.amazon.com/Liberal-Tears-Gun-Oil-6oz/product-reviews/B00J0IU0AI?camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=ur2&tag=iphone0dce-20&linkId=OMBRYAX56M45VB35
Remember, keep your guns and MAGA on.
Honestly I just use gun oil.
http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Lubricating-Bottle-2-25-Ounce/dp/B000PW64JY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-2&keywords=gun+oil+lubricant
Along with the following...
http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Cleaning-Patch-Guage-Pack/dp/B0000C50HK/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1409932967&sr=1-2&keywords=Shotgun+gun+cleaning+patches
Which also work on the guns I own.
Nothing special about the brand, I just wanted to link to an example.. any product like that will work.
Here is what you need
​
They have prime 1 day for free.. This is what I use. mil spec.. it will last forever.. If your gonna build something build it right IMHO
​
Have fun building.. you will never buy a complete gun again
Froglube
Leave the copper colored factory grease on the slide until it's gone. Hit up the range with a few hundred rounds. Some people clean the gun before firing. I just lubed the slide a little and fired 300 rounds before my first cleaning.
Start here: https://youtu.be/DZf4mUM10Vc
For deeper cleaning watch this: https://youtu.be/7VTIqAMPOco
These: The Professional's Choice Pistol/Rifle Cotton Flannel 2 1/2-Inch Square Gun Cleaning Patches (120-Pack), .38/.357-Calibre/9mm/10mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MY45Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_I0Erxb77YVTWA
-This: UTG 9MM Pistol Cleaning Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZJ1364/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_j1Erxb6MQEHNV
Sorry for the long links I'm on mobile and bored at the moment. There are more updated and thorough videos if you search YouTube, but I enjoy listening to Hickok45's. Hope this helps.
So this is a month old but I have some insight if you haven't already started a certain path.
I just bought a 300blk upper for my pistol. I have a lot of 223 brass I've saved to and decided to reload for 223 to save some money. Well I'm pretty well into reloading for 223 and decided i would start for 300blk as well. The equipment isn't too expensive (relatively) if you get some Cabela's sales and buy some discounted gift cards. Full equipment with necessary parts will run about $250 after everything (can be cheaper if you buy a bundle pack).
This kit
Digital caliper
Initial 300blk dies
Trimming die
Trimmer
Case lube
That's pretty much it for the equipment side. Then you'll need bullets, powders, and primers.
If you're starting out with 223 brass you may want to cut the case before trimming, but you'll need something to cut it with. If you buy some ammo to shoot and collect the casings you can't use them too.
I have everything I need for 300blk except powder pretty much. I just need to find something to use.
So $250 for equipment and 1k round of 223 reloading will cost me about $175. That's $425 for the first 1k round of just 223. Once I buy stuff for 308, 300blk, and 9mm I'll start saving in much higher quantities per round. I think I'll probably actually start saving money through reloading in a couple months if I shoot as regularly as I'd like. I still buy ammo on sales and all, so I typically don't count brass into my cost for a reloaded round. On average it's about $.18/round (for .223) if I don't find good deals.
Edit: so I just went through and did some calculating. .178cpr for 223, .285cpr for 300blk, and .362cpr for 308 of I get good sales and free shipping.
Here is the post for archival purposes:
Author: JimGDouglas
Content:
>:
https://www.amazon.com/Liberal-Tears-Gun-Oil-6oz/product-reviews/B00J0IU0AI
I've actually researched this and tried it out with very good results. EEZOX:
https://www.amazon.com/Eezox-Synthetic-Gun-Oil-Can/dp/B002XW24MK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=eezox&qid=1568050363&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1
If you cannot find a physical obstruction, I am betting that you need to lubricate the lock. At any rate, it is the first step to take when troubleshooting a stubborn lock.
I recommend this stuff: Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil--Amazon. I have used it for years, one can will last a homeowner forever.
Edit: spelling
Gunzilla.
Doesn't smell (much).
Cleans and lubes.
Doesn't attract sand & grime.
I use brass & nylon brushes to get into everywhere and plastic picks for anything I can't reach. Wipe down with a lint free cloth. Sometimes use a can of air to blow crud out.
Yeah...those bots lol.
I'd recommend some "Frankfort Arsenal" case lube (it's lanolin based) vs. Hornady One-Shot. If you google "Hornady One Shot stuck case" you'll get a bajillion responses from folks who have stuck them (myself included). Sticking a case is almost a certainty with new folks and one-shot.
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Spray-Non-Aerosol-Reloading/dp/B007KBPU02
Now as far as where to apply, you put the cases in a loading block and just give them a good spray on all 4 sides of the block; you don't spray down into the case mouths, more at a 90 degree angle, about 1-2" above the case mouth, and far enough away from the loading block to get one side of it in 1-2 sprays....so 5-6 inches away from the block. Technically you don't want to get any on the neck/shoulder area of the case, but with spray lubes that's almost unavoidable. Once you apply it, you'll let the cases sit for ~5-10 minutes to allow the alcohol to evaporate out of it, leaving just lube.
Before you run the case up in the press, you can use your fingers to feel the body of the case to confirm there's lube there. It's obviously hard to describe how much to spray on your cases via the internet, but there's definitely such a thing as too much, but it's way better to have too much than too little; stuck cases REALLY suck. You'll learn over time.
If you put too much lube on a case, you'll get dents in the case necks (this is more prevalent on .223 and smaller cases than anything else), but it's ultimately harmless, and will blow out once you fire the case.
FL = Full Length
You don't necessarily need another scale; the chargemaster lite comes with 2 50 gram check weights so you can confirm the scale is working/accurate.
Things you're missing:
Chamfur/Deburring Tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-050117-4-Blade-Chamfer-Deburring/dp/B078489V3X/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1541992415&sr=8-14&keywords=Chamfer+Deburring+tool
Shell Holders (No need for the competition ones, just get the standard RCBS ones)
You'll want a funnel/powder drop tube setup. I prefer extended drop tubes, because with certain extruded powders you can get an extra 1-2gr of case capacity with a long/slow pour.
https://www.amazon.com/MTM-Universal-Powder-Funnel-Kit/dp/B00162KNDA/ref=sr_1_8?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1541992775&sr=1-8&keywords=Powder+drop+tube
Case tray(s). I'd get 2, one that you get nasty with lube, and one that's used for unlubed cases.
https://www.amazon.com/MTM-Universal-Ammo-Loading-Tray/dp/B0013RD6OQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1541992863&sr=1-6&keywords=case+tray
Case tumbler couldn't hurt; especially for tumbling lube off cases after you size them. You don't need anything fancy; a basic frankfort arsenal vibratory one with some walnut media will work just fine.
You'll want some ammo boxes
an extra decapping stem and/or some decapping pins for those dies coudln't hurt, but they're not required. You will bend one eventually, especially if you ever pick up some military range brass.
I purchased mine off Amazon. Here's the link for $12.49 for a bottle. The stuff also lasts forever. You really don't need to use all that much to get your gun totally clean.
http://www.amazon.com/Eezox-Synthetic-Premium-Gun-Care/dp/B002XW24MK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413219485&sr=8-1&keywords=eezox
Not greasing sig rails but I use this here and there on my AR and glock connectors. Supposedly (according to amazon comments) Sig used to send this out with their new guns.
Try Hoppe's Elite cleaner. It is pretty much odorless, and a very good cleaner. It's not a CLP, just a cleaner. Follow up with a small amount of lube. I use Weapon Shield oil, and lube the slide points with a little of their grease. The trigger group gets treated with Hornady One Shot with DynaGlide Plus.
this is supposed to be dry. I'm guessing it has some sort of graphite powder in it. I use graphite spray all the time to lubricate things that need to stay dry/clean, I don't know how long it would hold up to the stresses of a guns action though.
I’m in Britain so is this the right one? BreakFree Cleaner Lube Preservative, Trigger Sprayer, 1 Pint https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0050GW86S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8g6nDb9SQR1MS
this?
I just looked that up since I have never heard of it. It appears they have several types, which do you use? What does it smell like? Do you like it better than other gun lubricants?
I use M-Pro 7 for trigger components, Mil-Comm TW25B for slide components, and Remoil for shotgun, typewriter, and various handgun cleaning. I used to use Loctite 51001 C5-A because that is what my Glock came with but people on the internet only recommend that stuff for about 1000 rounds since the copper in it is apparently designed to act a bit like sandpaper.
Ballistol is great, here is what I use:
I use them pretty much in that order. If I could buy only 1 thing from the list, it would be the nitrile gloves. All the gun cleaning solvents are super toxic, nitrile is better than latex for solvents. Latex won't stop some solvents. Ballistol is the second best thing, then Gunslick Ultra Klenz is my next favorite. The Outer's Crud Crutter removes all of the above solvents, I use it when I'm done cleaning with Ultra Klenz and CR-10 because it removes the solvents and dries leaving the gun bone dry. Then I apply a drop of grease at friction points and give it an all over polishing with Ballistol.
Tools should be maintained like your bike. Wipe them down with a good oil after every few uses and definitely before storing for extended time. Something like Ballistol makes a very good preserver of not only metal but wood, plastic, etc.
Honestly just buy these : https://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Large-Lubricating-Field-Wipes/dp/B004U8S0OG or something similar and not care about shooting in wet weather. The guns are meant to be shot outside, a little water won’t hurt them. Just clean them as you go, or at the very least before you put it back in its case. Sticking with one gun will keep your scores up too.
Hoppes no. 9
Hoppes Lube
They make a proper tool for doing the pins in the trigger guard instead of using pliers.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/ar-15-trigger-guard-roll-pin-pusher-prod55709.aspx
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Trigger-Guard-Install-Tool/dp/B01B3NW460/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524371192&sr=8-2&keywords=ar+trigger+guard+install+tool
I have the top one. I just put some electrical tape on the side that makes contact with the lower to help prevent any scratching. The tool isn't needed but it can really help for installing and removing them.
Another optional tool:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/staking-tools/ar-15-m16-sling-swivel-staking-tool-prod40894.aspx
For staking the sling swivel mount to a fsb.
Edit: Don't forget the grease that one should install on the barrel threads to make it so you can remove it later without a fight. AeroShell 33MS is the mil-spec stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/UCWRG-AeroShell-33MS-Grease-5oz/dp/B01GGQMF54/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524371444&sr=8-1&keywords=barrel+grease+ar+15
Rubbing Alcohol, 2x2 gauze, Q-tips, Hoppe's #9 Gun Bore Cleaning Solvent, Hoppe's Lubricating Oil.
And you like the smell of Mobile 1 dripping everywhere? If you don't like the cherry scent get this
Edit: haha. Got downvoted for linking a 99% 5 star 200 ratings product on Amazon.