(Part 3) Best power drill parts & accessories according to redditors

but you're suppose to do it hot as plastic can seal it shut, heating it up makes it a breeze to remove. Now if it broke, then it was probably over tighten to begin with. don'd over tighten.

you could try to use a screw extractor but i think the brass would be too brittle to catch.

Greenlee DTAPKIT 6-32 to 1/4-20 6-Piece Combination Drill and Tap Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041FIR1E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KAXHAbSZCPCY3

If you have a drill, you can buy a diamond drill bit and drill holes in the bottom of your pot pretty easily. I just ordered these on Amazon and got them yesterday:

FireKingdom 5pcs 12mm 1/2" Inch Diamond Drill Bit Hole Saw for Tile Glass Marble Granite Fiberglass Ceramic Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1SAY58

I cut holes in 5 or 6 pots last night and it worked great. And now I can go to thrift stores and find cute containers to use :)

I left it un-trimmed so the edges provide a bit of proof that I actually did it! I have yet to drill my pads and vias, but I use this PCB Drill Bit set with a Dremel mounted in a Dremel drill press.

I have these; anything similar will work.

As requested an update with how to embed the Apple and the color of spray paint.

1. Embed the logo: Used a pencil to trace the apple logo and then a Dremel with small diamond burrs to to carve it out. http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Cylindrical-Jewelry-Gemstones-Lapidary/dp/B00CNXFUBG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450046561&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+burr
   
   
2. Paint: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Krylon-Almond-Satin-CoverMaxx/42440888
   
   
3. The plate was done by a local engraving shop but they didn't have the right size so I had to get the closest kind and then trim it.

Use a glass drill bit like these

Make sure to use lots of water while you're drilling to keep it cool. If you keep it cool enough you can drill a nice clean hole.

If you're feeling handy you can use a tap and die set to put threads in it to put in a downstem that wont jiggle around as seen here

Edit: Don't tap the glass itself instead fit a piece of metal which is tapped. Fix the metal to the glass with super glue

alright, your first step is to see what's bottlenecking you

open up the console with the "~" key, and type STAT UNIT. make sure you're in a reasonably full server to get an accurate real-world reading (and in your case, make sure to do this on an eastern euro map).

here's what I see with my crap 6 year old rig on a full server (i5 2500k OC'd to 4.5 GHz, GTX 570 1GB)

http://i.imgur.com/3icaDJV.png

Frame - the total time it takes to draw one frame. this will always depend on the highest time of the three values below. you want this to be as low as possible


Game / Draw - both CPU dependent times

GPU - your GPU time. dependent on the Game thread, and thus can never go lower than the Game time


in the above example in the image, I am slightly GPU bottlenecked, since the GPU takes the longest to draw a frame (32.25 ms). Even though my CPU finishes the frame first, it still has to wait for my GPU to finish before my computer can push out the finished frame

there are 1000ms in one second, so if you take 1000 / X, where X is the highest time, you will get your FPS

so in this example, 1000 / 32.25 = 31 fps.

you'll notice that my CPU isn't much faster than my GPU though. even if I upgraded my GPU, I'd then be bottlenecked by my CPU, which is at 25.61 ms

so even if I upgraded my video card to a $1,000 GTFO 107080, I'd still be held back by my CPU, and would still only get

1000 / 25.61 = 39.05 fps




>upgrading cpu isn't really an option, the mobo is now outdated and has a few stripped screws stopping me from removing it

hahaha

there's like a drill bit type thing designed for removing stripped screws, I'll have to google what it's called

edit: https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Screw-Remover-Vastar-Extractor/dp/B01HI6HAT2/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1480966912&sr=1-5&keywords=screw+remover

your CPU is very good though, so I doubt that's the problem. if you're still CPU bottlenecked though, you have a "k" CPU, which means the core multiplier is unlocked and you can overclock it.
before dropping the cash on a new CPU and motherboard, I'd first buy an aftermarket cooler/fan and try to overclock that sucker as high as you possibly can. the way to do this is different between motherboard BIOS's, so you'll have to google how to do it with your specific motherboard.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4RE4RT1326&cm_re=LGA1155-_-35-118-003-_-Product

spend the $35 and OC the hell out of your CPU before trying to upgrade it

A glass bit is a normal household tool. They are not very expensive and you can drill lots of holes:
http://www.amazon.com/Mibro-456831-4-Piece-8-Inch-16-Inches/dp/B000FK3ZE8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395952006&sr=8-2&keywords=drill+bit+glass

It's 2 3/8" (2.375"). If you cut 2.25" it won't fit.

I just cut the same cooler as OP tonight (same color and everything!), I used this hole saw and it fits perfect.

No, not really, other than using my drill tip specifically made for drilling into ceramic and glass. It's the handiest thing I have in my house since most of my planters are usually thrift store finds that were not originally meant to be used as a planter LOL. The bigger the pot, the more holes I drill. I should have put something to do a size comparison, but its almost a foot long, so this one has five holes in the bottom.

I use 1/8" magnets for my Crisis Suit weapons. They are basically the maximum size that will fit in the weapons. You could probably go a bit smaller and use 3/32" magnets and have some more wiggle room.

​

100 1/8" for $14 with prime shipping: https://smile.amazon.com/MagNetSol-Magnets-Drill-Combo-100pcs/dp/B0753M1ZYQ

​

3/32" for $15 with prime: https://smile.amazon.com/Primal-Horizon-Magnets-Drill-Combo/dp/B00CA58RJY

Diamond Drill Bits, Baban 10Pcs Hole Saw Diamond Drill Bit Hollow Core Drill Bit Set for Diamond Coating, Carbon Steel for Glass, Ceramics, Porcelain, Ceramic Tile, Marble, 6-32mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L92YM1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x.QUCbVDBJFS2

/\ get some of these and a 14mm downstem on eBay. 14mm is the way to go cuz you can dab with it too. Just make sure to practice drilling glass at least 10 times before you risk that beautiful bottle. Best of luck!

it came with this drill chuck https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20754A-Change-Convert-Impact/dp/B0051AE85W but Both Milwaukee and Dewalt have their own version. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2298-2-Inch-Square-Adaptor/dp/B001BZ9YZU/ https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-03-4410-Shockwave-2-Inch-Adapter/dp/B002KKBBR4

Dewalt Magnetic Drive Guide in case anyone wanted to get one like me.

Damaged Screw Remover Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HI6HAT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jNJlybX8MQF3R

It's really not the best option. My Hilti has a sliding bar along the outside that I can adjust precisely. I also use stop collars for anything that's critical. For your average DIY'er though the tape trick is a good tip, and easy to do with materials on hand..

You can get sets of carbide PCB drills with a 1/8" shank far cheaper than a decent micro chuck.

I think this is a search that will take too much time. The deeper pegs are a much better deal, anyway. So buy some drill stops, and make your selected holes the correct depth:

https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Bit-Stop-Collars-7-Piece-Set/dp/B0039ZEZNG

$150-180 +Tax (if Prime) to DIY
You need a spool of cat 5e/6, 6 Keystone jacks, 3+ Faceplates, some single and double gang brackets and a few cheap tools.

The brackets are what goes into the dry wall so the face plates have something to screw into.
Single / Double Gang is the size of the bracket.
Single gand = the size of a box for 1 outlet.
Double Gang = The size of a box for 2 outlets (side by side)

Tools: https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Portable-Ethernet-Crimping-Detector/dp/B01JU2XERY/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1497913897&sr=8-27&keywords=cat+5+punch+down

Cable: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Cable-000ft-Cat-6-VIVO/dp/B0092TK2U8/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1497914001&sr=1-2&keywords=1000+ft+cat6&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

Keystones: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914060&sr=8-2&keywords=cat+6+keystone+jack

FacePlates (Dual): https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Keystone-Plate-2-Port-White/dp/B0722K3K8R/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914110&sr=8-12&keywords=keystone+faceplates
Note* You are going to be under the house or in the attic. The work sucks but its way worse going in there for a 2nd time to run 1 extra wire... do yourself a favor... if you are running 1 length to a room.... run 2.

Faceplates (Double Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Port-Keystone-Faceplate-Dual-White/dp/B004FUWY3C/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914196&sr=8-7&keywords=keystone+faceplates

Low Voltage Bracket (Double Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Low-Voltage-Bracket-Dual-Gang/dp/B003ZWHK6C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914233&sr=8-2&keywords=double+gang+low+voltage+wall+plate

[BUY 3 of these] Low Voltage Bracket (Single Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Low-Voltage-Bracket-Dual-Gang/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914233&sr=8-2&keywords=double%2Bgang%2Blow%2Bvoltage%2Bwall%2Bplate&th=1

[EXTRA]
This is not necessary but super helpful for drilling through studs you cants see. Also keeps you from cutting more holes in the drywall than necessary. If you are done drilling holes, sell it on Craigslist for @ afterwards.
Stud Drill Bit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLGT4GI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used a glass/tile drill bit while it was immersed under water and then largened the hole with a dremel and and a grinding stone to get it to size. I just ordered this set of bits off amazon as the one I had was much to small and took forever to grind up to size.

You want one of these, too: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-53715SEN-Flex-Placement/dp/B00D3QPTZO

This is kind of an oddball solution but it might work. Drill a hole into the saddle with a jewelers bit. Take a needle, pin, or toothpick and superglue it into the hole you just made. After it dries pull the saddle out. If you want to reuse the saddle you can dissolve the superglue with acetone and pack a superglue/baking soda mix into the hole you just made and it will be useable again.

They sell these little jewlers drill kits with a pen drill in hobby stores but here's a link to one in case you don't know what to look for:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VNPRNQ

Sorry to hear about that, I know hindsight is always 20/20 but I recommend always center punch mounting holes, pre-drll, and then use a hand screw driver to apply the screw, it takes longer but you will never damage a speaker/subwoofer.

Another good option if you like to still use a power tool is this: drive guide set

Here ya go. This took care of it for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-13310-4-Piece-Glass/dp/B000ETWIKM

glass drill bits

Oh yeah.. I'm fan of cutting my hole to the width of the studs.. way easier to have the support there when it needs to be patched. In a previous career, I did low voltage, basically home theaters and automation... I would do my best to avoid doing my own drywall work and foolishly when I did open up walls I was cutting small holes which then would make the job extra hard both to run my wires and to patch 🤣. There was one remodel project that I straight Swiss cheesed that house up... It was a large project for my company (9k sqft house) and 100% retrofit.. I was using one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012U1VVD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1PEUDbR6S39EK cutting 10-12" circles all over the house... Like I said Swiss cheese. Thankfully as part of the deal I told them they had to hire their own drywall guy.

Buy a glass drillbit at home depot. That will run you a few bucks. Use the glass drillbit with yiur drill and presto! perfect hole. Find a downstem and add that. If you're lazy and don't want to have to pull the bowl you can make the dowstem and the bowl the same piece and add a shottie on the back. http://www.amazon.com/Mibro-456831-4-Piece-8-Inch-16-Inches/dp/B000FK3ZE8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=134365945http://www.bongoutlet.ca/bong-slider-p-444.html?osCsid=7ebfba2110d8735b9613796f77cec1470&sr=8-5&keywords=glass+drill+bit glass drillbit buy a downstem at a headshop and use it.

buy the proper bit or get some of these

http://www.amazon.com/Mibro-460271-Circle-Hole-Cutter/dp/B001C00ZRK

Maybe this, but it is really not good with hand held drills

General Tools 55 Heavy Duty Circle Cutter. Adjustable 1-3/4 Inch to 7-7/8 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7P1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mRIqybDSME4FH

If cutting in drywall, not wood, Hole Pro T-200 1-5/8" to 8" Adjustable Hole Cutter - Hole Saw for Recessed Lighting Speakers. Twin High Speed Steel HSS Blades use ¼ Drill Power of a Hole Saw to Cut Sheetrock Plastic Soft-woods https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012U1VVD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oSIqybF27HZMP

Everyone punches a hole in a sub/surround sooner or later. Can confirm, some silicone will suffice.

I use a drive guide now, haven't poked a hole in a speaker since.

Brushless AC you're not going to find. But that's okay--the main benefit of brushless is power efficiency, but you're plugged in to neverending power, so you don't care about that. You'll have to put a lot of miles on it before replacing the brushes and the brushes are cheap parts that are very easy to swap in most tools.

There are a couple companies who make corded impact drivers but they're relatively weak.

I would look in to getting a 1/2" corded impact wrench and pair it with a quick-change adapter. That will have crazy power and no batteries. In fact, your biggest problem will be too much power. You'll easily break 1/4" bits if you wail on them with that thing. They make a 7/16ths version of that quick-change adapter. 7/16ths bits are harder to come by, but it might be worth it.

That looks amazing. You did a great job. I love your fabric choice.

Also, if you think 1/16" drill bits are small, you should check out micro drill bits. One use for them is for drilling small holes on PCBs. These on Amazon are metric and go from 1.3mm down to 0.3mm. For reference, 1/16" is about 1.5mm.

Use a drill bit depth stop to prevent going through to other side: https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Bit-Stop-Collars-7-Piece-Set/dp/B0039ZEZNG

Yeah the army painter drill is just a pin vice drill from the looks of it which is the kind used for magnetizing models.

This here is a set of 100 magnets and a matching size drill bit that I used to magnetize my smaller minis.

Yes, that's an insert ring. It'll basically cover the rough edges and kinda hide the hole to give a cleaner look overall. This is a hole saw that will fit that exact ring - https://www.amazon.com/Vulcan-961641or-Metal-Hole-Saw/dp/B000X2ILXS/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1486606762&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=2+3%2F8+hole+saw.

Basically, mark out where you want to make the hole, then make a dent directly in the center of where you want it to be to keep the hole saw from slipping while the drill threads cut in. Then just attach the hole saw to any drill, put moderate pressure and medium speed at first, and let the drill do the rest. Just make sure you stay as well directly on top of it as you can.

This has come in handy more than a few times...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0041FIR1E/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1416195164&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

And my everyday carry Kershaw knife.......http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AU6NWP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1416195515&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Off the job...... http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-98002BT-Bottle-Opener/dp/B00093GENU

You can use one of these to cut round holes. It'll cut perfectly round holes and even stepped mounting holes for flush mounting drivers. http://www.amazon.com/Hole-Pro-T-200-Adjustable-Cutter/dp/B012U1VVD6/ref=sr_1_10/175-8260483-6063160?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1458906927&sr=1-10 This is the first link I found, they aren't all nearly that expensive and you don't need a version with a dust catcher.

Make sure the cutting heads are exactly the same distance apart from the central bit. Go slowly and you get perfect results.

MagNetSol Magnets + Drill Bits Combo Pack (100pcs 1/8'' x 1/16'' Magnets + 2pcs 1/8" Drill Bits) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753M1ZYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vKA3CbXMK7TP5

Those the are magnets.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/miniature-barrel-hinge?gclid=CjwKCAjwlPTmBRBoEiwAHqpvhZzbQGjXyoOKw5otUUrykIptkjfdhep6YqdWybyOaP2kjrz3NQBwFhoCCGoQAvD_BwE

And those are the hinges.

Sorry for bad formatting - I’m on mobile.

Those are really petty complaints

1. buy a pin vise and make your own holes. Every modeler should have one
   
   
2. I agree, probably the only weak point of the kit
   
   
3. Slotted feet. The MG had slots in the feet too (different position) it really doesn't bother me since that area of the feet should be a black outline anyways.
   
   
4. Legs look good to me. The proportions look similar to the MG EZ-8

I got mine from Amazon, for 10 dollars. Already had wire and crazy glue at home.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VNPRNQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1426545901&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=pin+vice

This is what worked for me you can enlarge the hole a bit with the bit :-) DRILAX

4.2 out of 5 stars  255Reviews

30 pcs SET 10 pcs. 1mm 10pcs. 2mm 10 pcs. 3mm Diamond Drill Bit Cylindrical Burr Kit Jewelry Beach Sea Glass Shells Gemstones Lapidary 30pcs. 1 mm 2 mm 3mm (1/8")

These are a good place to start:

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753M1ZYQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074SYK3H4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

The 1/16" are good for sticking small weapons (stealth, crisis suit, etc) to suit arms and nacelles, while the 1/8" are better for heavier stuff like hatches, Hammerhead and other tank weapons, seeker missiles and drones.

Diamond Drill Bits, Baban 10Pcs Hole Saw Diamond Drill Bit Hollow Core Drill Bit Set for Diamond Coating, Carbon Steel for Glass, Ceramics, Porcelain, Ceramic Tile, Marble, 6-32mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L92YM1A/


Use these, use a spray bottle with water as you drill but they'll actually work. Those harbour freight bits are not designed for hardened ceramics (porcelain) and tend to heat up and burn out.


If you want to up the ante, use an M14 mount bit, they attach to your grinder and are speedy and easy, but pricy. Talking 10s or less per hole.

Honestly a 1/4 drive 18volt impact with these Irwin bits work like a charm. Then you can buy the 1/4 quick change extensions. I know it’s not what you were asking about but that’s what a bunch of guys in my area use.

Speedbor 1877239 IRWIN Tools Max Wood Drilling Bits, 4-Inch, 6-Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00LLGRQZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j-PQCb5M1A74C

If you wish to do it like a professional use a flexible drill bit with this tool then use poles to fish.

They're actually quite affordable.

No worries! Happy to help.
If you decide you don't like where that hole is, or decide that you actually need a grommet, try drilling another one with one of these

This is most likely the answer. I purchased this in order to give it a shot. But forever reason it scares the hell out of me. The circles range from 1 inch to 2 inches. There are roughly 50 to cut, and they increment linearly by about 1/32.

Yes. This style of bit also works.

http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-13310-4-Piece-Glass/dp/B000ETWIKM/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1411526817&sr=1-3&keywords=glass+drill+bit

Looking through the options, I may get some of those diamond bits because they're a lot cheaper and come in a bigger range of sizes than my hometown hardware store. Fun side fact, the diamond bits work well for really thin, delicate pieces of glass.

IS the drywall/plastic the side where the TV is mounted? Kind of hard to get a perspective from how the picture is.

If so that cross 2 x 4 makes sense, builders will install bracing to help reinforce TV mounting, to make installing wall mounts easier.

If you want to reach it and drill through it, you need to get a long flexible drill bit like this https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-1890759-Installer-54-Inch/dp/B00LLGT4GI that'll help get you the angle and distance you need to drill through it, its also great for pulling wire through those drilled holes as well.

For the DIY-ers out there, get you one of these and one of these and make a sous vide cooler for your Anova.

Yep. I've got a square drive with a hex chuck adapter. Best of both worlds.

I'm not going to lie. I think your weight is an issue. My wife at 120 is very strong and has a tough time with screwing 4 inch screws into solid wood beds.

With that being said, getting good bits that fit your screws properly will help immensely. Also, consider getting a magnetic drive guide like this:

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2095-Magnetic-Drive-Guide/dp/B00004RH24

That was a game changer for my wife. It allowed her to lean over the drill 2 handed and put all her weight into the drill instead of trying to fight pushing down while maintaining stability.

Nope auger type, so it screws into wood and essentially pulls itself through. Kinda like these

https://www.amazon.com/Speedbor-1877239-Tools-Drilling-6-Piece/dp/B00LLGRQZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=bosch+bit+3%2F4+screw&qid=1567078446&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Flex bit for drilling down through subfloor. Take it slow and easy. Hit a snag, stop and back out and move over a bit. Knots in the wood will destroy these things. Use razor blade and/or drywall knife to knock out wall plate size hole. Plenty big enough to put flexbit through. Used this many many times running AV cabling

Irwin Tools 1890759 Flex Shank Installer Drill Bit with Auger Tip, 3/4-Inch Shank, 54-Inch Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLGT4GI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dp8CAbDY3MD5J

Here is the non-mobile link from the comment above
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drilled out a few screws in motherboards and graphics cards with a set like this but you have to have a steady hand

>since you have to come in at a angle in the first place.

o_O

It seems you might be unfamiliar with flex bit placement tools, some variety of which has come with every flex bit I've ever purchased. If you're coming in at an angle when you start drilling with a flex bit, you're doing it wrong.

Impact with Irwine speed bits and i can do a whole basement of holes in no time and believe it or not that's with a 19.3 volt craftsman

https://www.amazon.ca/Speedbor-1877239-Drilling-4-Inch-6-Piece/dp/B00LLGRQZY/ref=asc_df_B00LLGRQZY/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292947999281&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11540334174751357764&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001363&hvtargid=pla-579388274377&psc=1

I Love This Greenlee Drill/Tap set!

And of course my Wera Screwdriver Set. Makes dealing with terminals a breeze.

Everyone here seems to like Milwaukee power tools, but I have a Milwaukee drill/driver, but seriously, I prefer the 12V Bosch drill and impact driver. I was trying to use the brand new Milwaukee to drive a 1/4" lag bolt into my dock, and it stalled about 4 threads in. Grabbed the 8 year old Bosch, and drove it all 3 inches down without a sweat.

ETA: Something I only pull out once in a blue moon, but when I do need it, a good Fox and Hound is an absolute bloody necessity! I have that one for general wires, and my Fluke network test kit one for Coax/Copper Ethernet. I wish there was some way for someone to make one for fiber, but oh well, that's next generation physics.

I guess I should also say, the GreenLee Slug-Buster knockout set is amazing. No time spent trying to pop out slugs from the punches.

Oh, lord, I could go on...

Okay, one last one, sitting on my desk: a Brady printer. I can use that to print wire labels FAST (Real Fast), directly importing from a wire run list in a CSV format, but it also does legend plates, and pushbutton/switch plates. Godly.

Okay, I'm done.

No wait.. .One more, for instrumentation guys: Fluke 4-20mA Clamp on... LOVE IT

Okay, I'm really, REALLY Done

I have mounted things into 3/4" marble at work. Use a flame-tip tile drill bit to make a hole then depending on the weight of the blinds (do not do this for heavy roller blinds or roman shades) use a drywall anchor in the hole or use a washer and pass the screw right through the stone and into the window frame.

you jest but, https://www.amazon.com/MIBRO-460271-Adjustable-Circle-Cutter/dp/B001C00ZRK

...it should work fine.

Awesome. I Used this to cut the holes to fit the k cups exactly where I wanted them to sit. I wanted them to sit a little higher so I can easily grab them.

Mibro 460271 Circle Hole Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C00ZRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9sRxybS7GRE4H

Here's one I found on Amazon (US)

Vermont American 13310 4-Piece Glass & Tile Drill Bit Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ETWIKM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_vrkAwbAR4VGJG

i'll just throw in my anecdotal experience with ryobi.

i have bought 2 ryobi products in my life, their corded jigsaw and 4-stroke trimmer. both are the 2 worst tools i have ever bought... even below harbor freight quality. i ended up throwing them away because i hated them so much. replaced with dewalt jigsaw and stihl trimmer.

my buddy bought a ridgid cordless drill when he wanted me to help mount a TV on his wall, and honestly it felt pretty good. i was impressed with the warranty.

i use my 1/2" impact (dewalt dc820) on lugnuts and whenever i can. sometimes you don't have the room to get a bigger wrench in there so most of the time i'm using a breaker bar + hand tools.

i'm not sure if you can wait, but the 2 biggest sales for tools are black friday (after thanksgiving) and father's day, coming up next month. might be worth waiting for. home depot, lowe's, amazon will all have some sort of deal on an impact.

keep in mind you can adapt a 1/4" hex to a 1/2" square and vice versa.