(Part 2) Best tire & wheel tools according to redditors

I see the problem, you're using car tire irons. You need 3 spoons man.

I recomend the motionpro spoons. get this set and one of the box wrench end ones that fit your axle nut for the 3rd.

*Wanted to add, don't get a bead buddy, that's what the 3rd spoon is for. Use lots of soapy water, like 1 part dish soap to 8 parts water in a spray bottle. What I do is put the wheel up on a bucket(filled most of the way with water for stability) and use a clamp (or 3) to compress the tire into the rim on one side when popping it over the other.

Also, breaking the bead I totally deflate the tube, then stand on it and deflate more, then soapy water and a few whacks with a plastic hammer does the trick every time.

And after using lots of soapy water let it sit a while and/or ride easy for a few miles so you don't spin the tire on the rim and shear off the valve stem on your nice new tube. (Ask me how I know)

Very thin piece of metal, usually sold as feeler gauges used for measuring the tolerance of, or distance between two parts. When a very thin piece of metal (0.003") is inserted into the lock it will cause the pistons inside to line up enough to open it. Only works on shitty locks. Also you might need them made of copper or brass.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T86ADZ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504647911&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=feeler+gauges&dpPl=1&dpID=317K%2BrMZPHL&ref=plSrch

One suggestion from past experience, buy a tire plug kit like this or this. If your area is hit by a serious storm there will be roofing nails and other debris on the roads. The plugs will usually do a good job with nail punctures and it's easy to do.

Any multi tool from CRANKBROTHERS or Topeak will be good. For the love of GOD don't buy a cheap multi tool for your friend. Cheap tools are made poorly with low quality metals that will end up stripping your friends components. I don't care how well that POS WOTOW tool is reviewed, the positive reviews never used it. The WOTOW tool stripped more than one of my bolts before I bought an Alien II. Your friend will want to buy some high quality tools for his home use later though. $15 would only buy a few quality home tools.

​

If your friend uses tubes you could get a REMA patch kit for him. If your friend is tubeless you could get him a plug kit. I've never had a tubeless tire so I've no idea what plug kits are good/bad.

​

Aaaaaaaaaaaaand this is why I carry an air compressor in my tank bag.

That said, good job on the quick fix! It always pays to be creative with problem solving.

1. This gauge works great.
   
   Accu-Gage Fat Bike Presta Valve Low Pressure Bicycle Tire Gauge, 30psi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WVG928/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_vuoQBbR84DC5H
   
   
2. Get rid of tubes. Tubes = lame
   
   
3. get a dropper
   
   
4. get a Bluto or Mastadon
   
   
5. Squeaking? Probably tires are too hard.

I bought this lug wrench from Amazon since the one it comes with is worthless. High gauge, long jumper cables Also, I threw a can of fix a flat in the back. I replaced the cabin lights with white LEDs (cheap and easy), and Weathertech floor mats (awesome for winter). A basic tool kit would be great, as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2650-Tubeless-Repair/dp/B000P1RP48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525134567&sr=8-1&keywords=mountain+bike+tire+plugs

/u/keylime503 is spot on. Even if it is the law. Even if it is your right, why waste your time and potentially hurt your car just cause that's how its supposed to work.

Pickup an inexpensive gauge like this one
http://smile.amazon.com/Accutire-MS-4021B-Digital-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00080QHMM
(or this one if you're old-school like me http://smile.amazon.com/TireTek-Flexi-Pro-Pressure-Gauge-Motorcycle/dp/B00XPL88NC/)

and you're good to go. Keep it in your trunk or glovebox.

for the completely gas station free experience, pickup your own compressor.
$20 http://smile.amazon.com/LifeLine-AAA-300-Volt-Compressor/dp/B000SL4AA2/

$45 if you're into overkill like me http://smile.amazon.com/Viair-00073-Heavy-Portable-Compressor/dp/B0012WHBSO

And you're done.

I've got a $10 compressor in the trunk of my wife's car just so I never have to worry about it when we take hers on road trips... but I wouldn't recommend something this cheap for most of you (for me its 3rd behind a 5gallon craftsman shop compressor and one of the $50 ones above)

http://smile.amazon.com/ABLEGRID®-Portable-Compressor-Inflator-Adaptors/dp/B015YZJ7KY/

The standard way for off-road trucks is a core remover like this:

https://www.amazon.com/ARB-ARB505-E-Z-Deflator-Orange/dp/B004LQCDOA

If you need faster than that you'll need to have a vacuum pump on the outlet to suck the air out. Or connect to some sort of pre-evacuuated tank, could use an empty propane tank that you've evacuated.

Get one of these. Normal gauges can be a pain in the ass to maneuver around the bike.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XPL88NC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499129110&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tiretek&dpPl=1&dpID=41FRRirR0gL&ref=plSrch

Yes, happens to me frequently. I'll remove the core and use alcohol to clean off some of the sloppier residue. I use Orange Seal, so I can even get little bits of glitter attached to the core.

I also keep around a bag of cores (like this) around in case I get one really gunked up.

I've never had to empty out the sealant, just cleaning up the core has been enough.

You can clean them but I keep a pack of ten from Amazon handy. At $1.10 each bulk, it's worth the time savings to just replace them.

Make sure that when you inflate your tires, you do it with the valve -up- instead of down. Otherwise the slight backflow of your pump will suck more sealant into the core.

Presta valve core

Valve core remover

If the cores can be removed, there will be flat spots on the section with threads.

If you're worried about punctures, buy removable core tubes, and a Stan's injector and some Stan's no tubes sealant. Inject some sealant in the tubes.

I'm happy to help. If you get one setup right, they're a blast. But I'll warn you, the stock wheelset makes it feel way slower than it is. The wheelset I bought I found on sale and between that and going tubeless I shaved over 3lbs of rotating mass. That's HUGE on a bike, and right where you feel it most. My wheel/tire combo only weighs about 1/2lb more than my fully 29er setup. You have to buy a dedicated low pressure gauge for it, that reads in small increments. This is the one I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Accu-Gage-Presta-Valve-Pressure-Bicycle/dp/B071WVG928/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522435581&sr=1-1&keywords=low+pressure+bike+gauge

You can carry a spare tube/CO2/Lever rolled up and velcro strapped to your seat rails, or wedge it under your toptube where it meets your downtube and secure it with a velcro strap. I recommend a side of bacon as well.

I figured out how to change the tires pretty easily. You can take the tube out with the tire lever; this is the easy part.

To put the tire back on, first put the valve through the hole. Then, use the clamps and the tire iron (or possibly start with the tire levers) to do the rest. Clamp it as far as you can on each side (1/3rd to 1/2th the tire clamped in place) and keep moving the tire into position with two tools very close to each other starting close to the clamps. When you make some progress, put a new clamp into position. I had to use the tire irons for the last part as it's extremely tight. **You won't be able to go straight for putting the rest of the tire on, you have to do it bit by bit from the clamps.

Pedro's Tire lever - https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-6400051-Tire-Lever/dp/B001SN8IW0

Clamps - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DSY4QO

Tire iron - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FVGSO0A

I keep one of these in my car for that reason. It’s miles better than the crappy factory lug wrench.

The valve core got clogged. Replace it. Keep some spare for the next time it happens, maybe one (+tool) in your spare take-along kit on your rides.

Convenient link added:

https://www.amazon.com/d/Tire-Repair-Tools/Kenda-Presta-Valve-Cores-Bag/B0028N8DGU/

Slime makes a kit that already has that SAE connection, along with another ring terminal adapter, alligator clips, cigar adapter, bottle of slime junk and even a mini tire pressure gauge! Slime 50001

https://smile.amazon.com/Stop-Go-6000-Tire-Repair/dp/B0068FX3VO/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=stop+n+go+tire+plug+kit+motorcycle&qid=1566911851&s=gateway&sr=8-10

I have one of those in my car and it's not big at all. Easily fits in a saddle bag. It's slightly larger than a 6" sub sandwhich.

These are the tire patches you need to use ( https://www.amazon.com/Hanperal-24Pcs-Rubber-Repair-Patch/dp/B01NADRACD/ref=sr_1_31_sspa?crid=1Q4DRTIQJ8PKR&keywords=tire+repair+kit&qid=1564928285&s=automotive&sprefix=tire+%2Cautomotive%2C135&sr=1-31-spons&psc=1 ) But you do need to remove the tire and put the patch on the inside, The rope plugs are just an emergency get home fix.

> sell the runflats on craigslist, and use that money to pick up some rims, summer tires, and a nice dinner for yourself tire mobility kit.

FTFY

^^(cheaper, ^^non-BMW-branded ^^alternatives ^^also ^^available)

Wheel weights can really just go anywhere on the wheel there's a flat enough spot to stick it to, but I try to get it as close to the center as possible. I use stick-on weights, but the guy who I had doing my tires before always used the clamp-on weights. Both seem just fine.

You throw the wheel with tire onto the balancer and the heavy spot will orient itself downward. Add the weights to the light end that is upward. I use a piece of electrical tape to hold weights on temporarily and add them until it's balanced enough that the wheel wont spin on its own. It's not as awesome as those big expensive machines that tell you where to put the weights, but I've personally never had issues. Just takes patience and forethought.

Here are the tool I use:

Rim savers These work very well, but I think if you have spoons that aren't flat and wide like the motion pros it can break the plastic it's made from. Mixed reviews. Some recommend three, but they're sold in pairs. I went ahead and got two sets in case I broke one somehow.

Wheel balancer I had heard horror stories about the cheaper end balancers and figured I'd just do it right the first time and went ahead and got this thing. Very solid piece of equipment.

Two smaller spoons - These work great I think. I have a slight bias toward motion pro since, in my experience, they make good stuff.

Large spoon - It's useful for the last part of the tire if you can't manage it with a shorter spoon. More leverage. Not entirely necessary, but three total spoons is ideal.

Air compressor - To set a bead you need one with a high enough PSI, but this was bought with the air tools in mind. I'm pretty sure it would be overkill for just mounting tires.

Bead breaker - There is a motorcycle specific one that I saw, but it seemed like it was designed for scooter wheels that are much smaller. I saw it in action at a friends house and it works fine as well.

There are competing brands and vendors for everything you can think of, so shop around for whatever you decide on doing. There's a good chance there's a better deal out there on something. I just use amazon for reference.

Hey, I did have a look at the 12V compressors --- did you have any recommendations? Stop-n-go have a compressor kit but it's quite overpriced compared to the US prices...probably because it's imported from the US.

I posted a list on your other thread, but you might also want to invest in a slime kit.

Lots of variables for tires & brakes. I've heard of folks eating up a set of tires and brake pads in one weekend. Those with more wear, it could be after a day. The OEM pads & tires are fine for the track, but you will most likely eat them up pretty fast, again, depending how you're driving. For your first day, if you're not particularly aggressive, you should be fine. If you are on it, they will go much faster. Are you comfortable changing your own brake pads? If so, bring the tools to do it and extra sets of pads. (front & rear) That will give you peace of mind.

After every session you're going to want to check a few things:

• Lug nuts with a torque wrench (I picked up this one on Amazon a few years ago and it's worked well.) Torque ONLY when wheels are cold, eg. right before you go out on track. Do NOT use 12 point sockets - use a good six-point only! (OEM Ford lug nuts are ABSOLUTE GARBAGE and will fall apart.)
  
• Tire pressures. Get a good tire pressure gauge, something like this. (similar to this - I recommend analog, as you don't have to worry about batteries)
  
• Brake pad wear - visual inspection - look carefully at the pad material on all four corners. Make sure you have plenty. Check inner & outer pads.
  
• Tire wear - pay attention to how your tires are behaving and wearing. Adjust pressures as necessary. I normally start the day out about 8-10 PSI less than the OEM specs. After your first session, immediately check pressures. Tell your instructor you want to do so, they will help you. You want the hot pressures to be somewhere around your OEM pressures. You may have to add/remove some air to get the tires where you want them to be. Take notes, and experiment.
  
• Open the hood after your session and inspect the engine. Get used to what it looks like and look carefully for leaks or anything that is out of place. You may have issues with overheating as so many folks have in the past. If you notice your coolant temp climbing, put the heat on full blast and run it out the side vents. This will help mitigate the issue enough to get you by. The solution is a larger radiator but that's for another time.
  
• One last thing, when you come in off of a hot track, try not to use your brakes. When you park your car, use wooden blocks or wheel chocks. Don't use a parking brake. Let the pads/rotors cool without touching. I like to run my car for a few min after coming off track to let the coolant circulate a bit, with the hood open. Up to you if you do this. Heat is the enemy, gives me peace of mind to let it cool faster.

I <3 my JACO gauges. I use the 60 psi version with the hose: https://www.amazon.com/JACO-ElitePro-Tire-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B015HURK64

Looking to get a tire plug kit just in case of an emergency. Is this any good?

Slime 20133 Tire Repair Tackle Kit

I heard the mushroom-style plugs are better, e.g. this one .

Not any more mijo!!

Slime 50001 Power Sport Smart Spair
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M8SY0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yAZfzb60CQPQQ

I've done my rubber on my KLR. I have tubes but the process is (I'm guessing) pretty much the same:

1. Lift bike off ground. I have a stand to pick up the entire thing but you can do just one tire at a time. We'll do the front.
   
2. Remove the front axle. Loosen the axle nut and then the pinch bolts. Don't remove the axle nut. Lightly tap the axle nut to slide the axle out the other side. Keep backing the nut off and tapping until you can't back the nut out anymore. Remove the nut and pull the axle, supporting the tire. Inspect axle for wear and place on some shop rags. Remove speedometer cable when removing front tire. DO NOT SQUEEZE THE BRAKES WITH THE TIRE REMOVED. This will cause you problems trying to open your brake calipers back up to get the rotor in again.
   
3. Change your tire. Watch this video for instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAKIuSjPXxA
   
4. Put your front wheel back on, lube your axle.
   
5. Take the back wheel off in a similar fashion. Change the rubber in the same way.
   
6. Adjust your chain, instructions here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqu7WGELU5s
   
   There are some tools to help you:
   
   

• Tire spoons (at least 2)
  
• Valve stem remover
  
• Rim guards
  
• Rim weights
  
• Chain alignment guide
  
  I took a few hours to do mine as it was my first time, but with practice you could probably get it down to less than an hour. I also took the opportunity to clean and lube my chain. I cleaned it with WD40 and dried it off before using chain wax to lubricate. It helps if the chain is a bit warmed up for this.

I have this one which I forgot to mention comes with some gloves as well :P I think Continental makes a kit and there are likely some others but I just opted for the OEM one. Even with roadside assistance, the kit isn't a bad thing to have for maintaining your tire pressure alone without necessarily having to go to a gas station.

if you don't have a local Harbor Freight try Home Depot, Napa, or any automotive supply, also Amazon.

I carry a spare tube, but I also carry these: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2650-Tubeless-Repair/dp/B000P1RP48

If I am going pretty light and not going crazy far, I just carry those and don't carry a tube. They are so fast to use and not even close to as messy as putting a tube in. You don't have you to take off your tire at all and they are very cheap. When you use them, just make sure you get both holes plugged if there are two (there usually are, one on the top and one near the bead).

I have been running tubeless for a number of years now. Last year I went through about 8 rear tires - each with multiple pinch flats - and I was running (more than) enough pressure. This happened to basically all the tires I tried that weren't DH tires (Exo casings, Schwalbe enduro casings, E13 TRS casing) . For some reason the tire I have on there now has been doing pretty well, which is a Minion DHR2w 2.4.

My point in say all of that is this - carry something with you (carry a tube or at least some tire plugs).

Yeah going to ~22psi would make a very noticeable difference. Especially if the roads are corrugated. It'll be a much smoother ride. For me on load range D/E tires 18-22 psi is like the sweet spot.

I highly suggest getting the arb deflator to air down. It takes me like 20-30 seconds per tire including putting the deflator on. The screw on deflator that automatically stop were what I first used but they were annoying to use because I would have needed multiple sets set at different pressures and they take 1 to 2 minutes a tire and are never equal between the 4 tires.

ARB ARB505 E-Z Deflator, Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LQCDOA

Two Ronny Dahl videos about tire pressures and deflators.

https://youtu.be/6kul4YMcVpU

https://youtu.be/BAXRjNHIUw8

To air up I picked up a Vair compressor for about $50 but now that I have 37s I'm going to goto onboard air with a faster compressor. It worked great on my old 32s and friends 33s but if you have 35s or larger it takes like 4 minutes a tire to go from 20 to 30.

Tire bleeders are awesome and pretty inexpensive. I think I picked mine up for $40.

Edit: link

here

Definitely agree on the patch kit. The "right" way to do it is install a patch from the inside, but a rubber plug installed correctly is almost as good.

I like this kit for tubeless tires. It's got all of the tools needed, including an air compressor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068FX3VO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_k-x1Cb265M1RG

If you need to save space, they also have one that uses Co2 bottles instead of the pump. I like the version with the pump for my dual sports so I can air up and down often and the smaller kit for street bikes.

Here’s the bimmerzone version http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/BMW_Performance_Spare_Tire.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwzPXlBRAjEiwAj_XTET1FEftpguYLmtDSUBS75T_F35ov4fH1RO9gVTQpULAJ-LrE0G9fRhoCOD4QAvD_BwE

Here’s the amazon link for the inflator BMW Genuine Factory OEM 71100413439 Tire Mobility Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P5JO5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_uGGVCb4K2Z21Y

Hettig's on Mill St in Williamsville is where I go for advanced stuff (honest, inexpensive, quick, highest rated on Angie's List), but you might consider fixing this on your own. I replaced my own front suspension on a Pontiac Grand Prix without prior experience besides oil and brakes.

Buy a Haynes manual for your car (Amazon and most auto parts stores). [$20]

Buy essential tools if you don't have them: socket set (this will probably be 50% off in a month), deep socket set [metric/SAE], ratchet (if it doesn't come with the set), breaker bar, torque wrench (buy in Sears to make sure it's 'zeroed'), floor jack, jack stands (safety first), chocks (keep the car from rolling backwards while jacked-- essential), pliers, lug wrench (optional if you have the breaker bar and the socket to fit your lug nuts). Many of these can be bought at Harbor Freight without breaking the bank, but don't expect a ratchet or torque wrench from there to last very long. Definitely buy the jack, stands, and chocks there. [$50-100]

Buy a Monroe QuickStrut Strut Assembly [$120-150, depending on vehicle/wheel]. It includes the coil spring that you need as well as a new strut, all in one. This eliminates the need for a coil compressor, which is highly dangerous, especially when used on a busted spring. They carry them in AutoZone/Advance, but you can save a good 30% going through eBay. Just make sure to vet the seller thoroughly. Also be careful: the suspension parts for the 2.4L version of your car don't match those for the 3.0L version. Make sure you triple-check compatibility! If you're feeling adventurous, you might want to replace both front assemblies, as replacing only one might make your front end ever-so-slightly lopsided.

Follow the instructions in the Hayne's manual primarily. Use YouTube as a secondary guide. If you can get your hands on a service/maintenance manual (expensive and hard to get outside of a shop), use that above all. Heed all torque values for all nuts so you don't under or over tighten.

PM me if you have other questions. I've saved easily $1000 doing this by myself, even after buying a ton of tools. And the feeling of accomplishment, knowing you only spent ~$250 for a $600-1000 job, and you got a new strut out of it too, is unbeatable.

EDIT: added links.

You can patch a hole like this easily on your own, for what it's worth. You just need a simple tire plug or patch kit like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-20133-Repair-Tackle-9-Piece/dp/B003V9VZBK

You pull the nail out, use the "rough" tool to open the nail hole up to the proper size and clean it out (just jam the tool into the nail hole and pull it out a half dozen times or so). Then you thread the goo strip through the other tool with the needle eye end, squirt some rubber cement onto it all, and jam that into the hole about half way, give it a twist back and forth, and pull it back out, and it will leave the goo covered patch in the nail hole. The rubber cement (which comes with the good kits, or just buy a tube separately) will ensure the repair plug melds with the tire rubber. Trim the excess off, and drive a few miles and the the bump will wear back down smooth, and the tire should hold air as well as it used to when new.

If you can angle the tire in a manner you can reach the hole while it's mounted, you don't even have to take it off the vehicle to put in a plug.

Here are some of my personal supplies and tool recommendations.

An anti-corrosive spray, doesn’t hurt paint but I’d be careful about yours anyway.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1C8UO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5v0NDb496VPF6

A good tire pressure gauge. www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8DLGU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_dy0NDb58BP0WX

A basic multimeter. www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

A great battery tender, a lifetime purchase. www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ACFQCb40H0E0K

A very good spray on bike cleaner. www.amazon.com/dp/B0036GK83Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XB0NDbJZZC76W

A good explanation about testing your battery and charging system, goes well with the multimeter and tender.

https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik

These screwdrivers or ones like it are a must. www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_kBB7AbGCN238A

A winter storage checklist, very detailed, and can probably pare it down a little but...

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html

The best (IMO) winter gas treatment. www.amazon.com/dp/B001CAW2DK/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ryNKDb9RRE8KF

One of many easy to use lift, works for both front or rear, may have a model for a smaller bike, this is for my Yamaha Raider www.amazon.com/dp/B016Z01QYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UH0NDbVMTEC9K

A great totally enclosed cover, find the size for your bike. I attach the battery tender, the cord comes out where the zipper meets.
www.amazon.com/dp/B001I7XYZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sJ0NDbTJAPEEB

For maintenance questions, a great sub is r/Fixxit.

That’s all I can think of at the moment, welcome to the Club and Happy Trails!

Accugauge 30psi presta

I have an older model without the gnarly casing and it works well, especially when you forget your pump and need to use someone else's.

Fasmov Tire Iron Set Irons Changing Tool Kit,Set of 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FVGSO0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m8cLDbFA4CFCE

Those are what you want

good reveiews

https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1075-Standard-Plugger/dp/B0018EUDHW

I have and have used this on my truck

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=pd_lpo_263_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MVDGZMH8C9SY4QH3X0GV

I think it depends on the gas block. It's somewhere between .025" and .030", pretty sure i did .030" for my Syrac gas block.

I just picked up a feeler gauge from Amazon, i got this one. I'm pretty sure you can pick one up from auto stores like AutoZone and some tool stores like Harbor Freight and Lowe's.

GTE Tools - LugStrong 26" Universal Compact Lug Wrench Set, Super-Strong Tire Iron & Lug Nut Remover - 2X More Torque!  Never Get Stuck on The Road Again! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015DJ8A40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3IYRCb714CJ3G

Or

Dorman 711-900 AutoGrade Lug Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SEXO3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3JYRCb55J6KM2

I forgot deflators. I use this one, it pulls the stem and your tire is deflated in about 10 seconds. It took me about 1-2 uses to get good with it, I can now air down in less time then it takes most people to screw on the auto deflators.

http://www.amazon.com/ARB-ARB505-E-Z-Deflator/dp/B004LQCDOA

My vehicle comes from the factory with summer tires and a BMW Tire Mobility Kit . I've used it on a couple of occasions when I woke up to a completely flat tire (nails). I was gobsmacked that the latex and 12V pump worked perfectly to get me on the road (and over to the tire shop to properly patch the tire.)

i carry the following when i am riding around out of town. basically, if it would take more than an hour or so for my wife to come grab me, I carry my tools. i also carry my kit if im out with my brothers (but then i carry it more because it is my responsibility).

Tool Roll

Tire Pressure Gauge

Tire Kit

First Aid Kit

Zip Ties

Jump start kit

all of this crap gets bundled into an old Tank Bag and strapped to my sissy bar.

Just bought one of these for my car (its accurate and fairly cheap) and plan to use it regularly on my Pint when it arrives: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J8DLGU2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, much cheaper than a new tire.

Not sure about tires for a minivan, but whichever you choose you might consider adding the ability to air down on dirt roads, and airing back up once you get to highway. Airing down makes the ride much more comfortable on dirt roads and greatly reduces your chance for getting a flat.

I have this quality air compressor that hooks up to your car battery while it's running, and this air-down kit which makes it a fast/accurate procedure to air down.

I bought this one.

Slime 50107 Emergency Flat Tire Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166BVK28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2XJjDbCPWAW71

In addition to a scissor jack as suggested by /u/JayNorthpen, get a lug wrench. Often the ones supplied with the car are crap. Either get the kind with folding arms, or just a plain cross type. Here are 2 examples:

Any ladies reading this keep in mind that the weaker you are the larger you want the wrench to be.


Lug Wrench

Folding Lug Wrench

Scissor Jack

just bought this kit for that.

Something like this to pump it up.

Vibrelli Mini Bike Pump & Glueless Puncture Repair Kit - Fits Presta & Schrader - 120 PSI - No Valve Changing Needed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010JFWDHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YySyDbGX5QERK

And this to read the psi.

AstroAI Digital Tire Pressure Gauge 150 PSI 4 Settings Car Truck Bicycle Backlit LCD Non-Slip Grip, Silver (1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8DLGU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uASyDb1QVNH39

I carry this one wherever I go:

https://smile.amazon.com/Slime-20133-Repair-Tackle-9-Piece/dp/B003V9VZBK?sa-no-redirect=1

It doesn't come with rubber cement though. I like to put rubber cement on the rubber plug strings before I insert them into the tire so I also bought some small tubes of rubber cement to keep in the case with the rest of the tools.

I've used this kit more times than I care to count over the past 100K miles and it's always worked for me. The plastic case on mine is pretty beat up from banging around in my top case while riding off road so I use tape to make sure it stays shut under harsh conditions.

Such patch kits are usually a spray that goes over the air nozzle and sprays a sealer into the tire which closes the hole. You're not hunting on the tire for a tiny hole

I have tried several of the options out there, and this is by far the best one.

http://www.amazon.com/ARB-ARB505-E-Z-Deflator/dp/B004LQCDOA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463169520&sr=8-1&keywords=arb+tire+deflator

Stop and go tire plug kit (And small compressor)

https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1075-Standard-Plugger/dp/B0018EUDHW/

Or you could get regular tires and one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Factory-71100413439-Mobility/dp/B000P5JO5M).

This is the one I use: Im not a fan of C02 canisters. Cheaper versions of the kit have C02's.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Go-6000-Tubeless-Puncture-Pilot/dp/B0068FX3VO

I recently went on a road trip spanning from Baltimore to California had some tire problems due to uneven air pressure and it reminded me how important this concept is, especially when going on a road trip with climate and elevation change which all effects tire pressure. Did a lot of surfing the net and ended up purchasing a gauge and mini inflator. Here is the gauge I got, and here is the inflator. Stay safe!

Whatever you decide, I highly recommend picking up a reliable 100 psi tire pressure gauge for your RV. The best on the market is the ElitePro Tire Gauge 100 PSI by JACO. These things are legit.

Ugh those hand pumps are rough for inflating at home. Grab a floor pump and a good gauge. 22 PSI is a big difference, maybe try a JACO gauge...This one would work for schrader valves: https://www.amazon.com/JACO-ElitePro-Tire-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B016R9KKCU

With this

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-20133-Repair-Tackle-9-Piece/dp/B003V9VZBK/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3W08047B0FIQU&keywords=tire+plug+kit&qid=1567800384&s=gateway&sprefix=allan+par%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-5

Mine is older but looks like this.

https://www.amazon.com/JACO-ElitePro-Tire-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B016R9KKCU/

Fill them with nitrogen. You will have far less of a problem with temperature caused pressure differential. It's not at every gas station, but there's bound to be one within a few miles of where you live that has it.

I'd also recommend this to anyone that can afford it. It's a bit pricey, but it's not just for BMW. It's an air compressor that plugs into your outlet. It also has built in fix-a-flat type latex solution for small punctures that you can switch on. The solution used in this kit is much easier to clean out of the tire than that green goo, and will give you a much better chance at patching a hole later rather than having to buy a new tire.

Here you go: Slime 20133 Tire Repair Tackle Kit (9-Piece Set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V9VZBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_08GCCb7SN1HFB

Of course you’re risking catastrophic failure but blah blah blah you’ll be fine.

One thing real quick & I’ll try to come back later & post more;

Check to see exactly what tools you have in your car to change your spare tire and practice using them.

Chances are the tools are a joke & you’ll need something like this:
GTE Tools - LugStrong 26" Universal Compact Lug Wrench Set, Super-Strong Tire Iron & Lug Nut Remover - 2X More Torque!  Never Get Stuck on The Road Again! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015DJ8A40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_tx6XBbD9WR603


I got one for mine & my wife’s cars. The “wrench” that’s included from the factory with both our cars is barely a foot long & you get zero leverage with it.

Strongly suggest you actually practice changing a tire so you can see what its like with the tools you have. I also decided to put full-bore tool kit in both our cars.

I got this for the wife’s car because I decided it was cheap enough that I won’t care if it gets lost, stolen or broken, but good enough to do the job in a pinch a few times in a lifetime:

AmazonBasics 115-Piece Home Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GUDO2S6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.z6XBb648N1M5


EDIT: Can’t believe I forgot to mention the whole backstory, but....

The impetus for this post is a while back I was stranded with a flat at 1am on a cold, dark, rainy night - how stereotypical.

Tried to change my tire myself, could NOT get enough leverage with the 12” POS lug wrench that’s included by my car manufacturer. Had to call AAA. If I had been able to change the tire myself, I would have saved about an hour or so sitting in my freezing car.

That incident is what made me resolve to assemble fully stocked car kits for both cars, including some nice tools, med supplies, and clothing - I was freezing cold & it wasn’t even THAT cold outside.

It was a very eye-opening experience as it instantly made me ponder what things would have been like;

• If I had been in the middle of nowhere (I was at a well-lit gas station in a decent part of town)
  
• If I had my pregnant wife or new daughter with me
  
• Etc.
  
  Very eye-opening....thank God it just took that small incident to make me stock up.

I just use one of these even if it's not the most accurate still better to be within the range

If you're running tubeless you probably should be running sealant in your tires. Fat tires are pretty thin skinned and puncture easily in my experience. Stans, Orange, Slime are all popular brands.

If you get a hole that won't seal there are plug kits like this that can be installed from the outside, or patches like these that install on the inside.

And now I'm enlightened too

Presta valve core tool:
"A bespoke tool for removing and replacing presta valve cores, The LifeLine valve core remover helps prevent over-tightening and splitting of valve stem."

Presta valve:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presta_valve

presta valve core: https://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Presta-Valve-Cores-Bag/dp/B0028N8DGU

Press valve stem:. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valve_stem

>Slime Tire Repair Kit

this one seems to be the same except with a slower compressor for half the price?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166BVK28/ref=sxts_kp_lp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=HhrEu&pf_rd_r=1BX2TZRDA0J9Z0ZB8JDG&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B0166BVK28&pd_rd_w=lC1z7&pf_rd_i=tesla+tire+repair+kit&pd_rd_r=cc6637b4-f847-4ee3-a503-6949ecd556af&ie=UTF8&qid=1536424624&sr=2

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-940558-Universal-Lug-Wrench/dp/B004KED8CO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419068365&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+iron

That sucks. Hey you might want to keep something like this in your car for next time:

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-50107-Smart-Emergency-Repair/dp/B0166BVK28/ref=pd_sbs_263_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YSCFXP1AF7WY0VX4FG6P

Fixes a flat tire in like 5 minutes while you sit in your car. I had a flat up in Flin Flon a few years ago. It was a holiday so all repair places were closed. I used this and was able to make it from Flin Flon to Saskatoon where Kal Tire then washed out the tire (this stuff is water soluble) and then patched the hole. Can't say enough about this stuff, especially with winter coming who wants to be changing a tire when it's -20. This is a 5 minute job.

Yaaaaaassss. I hate the hockeystick wrenches so much. "They said we had to include a wrench that's theoretically capable of removing a lugnut. Here you go. Good luck." 🙄

I couldn't find my trusty 4-way recently, so I ended up buying one of these bad boys, but their photos suck so see the photos on this overpriced listing.

It's only a little better than a traditional 4-way, but the addition of the 1/2" square drive means you can include your own socket if you need a weird size, and I like the ergonomics slightly better too. Compact storage is just a bonus.

Give me that tire, ill patch it with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Hanperal-24Pcs-Rubber-Repair-Patch/dp/B01NADRACD/ref=ac_session_sims_263_6/143-0580517-3522411?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01NADRACD&pd_rd_r=0bca7616-e92c-4ef8-ade2-f6b278d4fb01&pd_rd_w=uxM4R&pd_rd_wg=4axvf&pf_rd_p=48085047-4138-436e-b581-f015f2ded99a&pf_rd_r=WFRXNG983ZMX3DNYKNPS&psc=1&refRID=WFRXNG983ZMX3DNYKNPS

Bit tougher with foam insert in tesla specific tire but completely doable.

I am not knowledgeable, i just dealt with it couple of times with tires nails.

Sidewall damage(nail in the sidewall of the tire), must replace for safety to avoid blowout when you hit a bump. Sidewall material are thinner because it flexes.


There are tire plug kit (https://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe-50002L-Universal-Punctures-Motorcycles/dp/B002I52RG0/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=tire+plug&qid=1572574280&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&sr=8-6) , but it requires massive force to shove the plug in and pull it out while leaving plug attached (think of it plug filling the hole to seal the ). This is not really recommended and not exactly safe imo. You are better off bringing to tire shop and tell them to patch it completely (beware some will just plug it because is easier for them, always ask for patch plug combo. Patch plug look like this https://www.amazon.com/Hanperal-24Pcs-Rubber-Repair-Patch/dp/B01NADRACD). Requires to remove the tire off the rim and shave the inside tread to make a better seal.

I also went here https://www.amazon.com/Hanperal-24Pcs-Rubber-Repair-Patch/dp/B01NADRACD something like that with the right adhesive.

Best overall gauges, in terms of quality and accuracy, are hands down made by JACO Superior Products. Nothing but positive experiences with them. Check out their Elite Gauge Series or ElitePro Gauge Series

If only

I used this kit recently to replace the rear tire on my 350. I would recommend getting a 3rd tire iron if finances allow, it really makes it easier.

As for breaking the bead, I just used a couple large c-clamps.

I have this one. I use it for regular fill ups and at autocross.

JACO ElitePro Tire Pressure Gauge - 60 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HURK64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iyd.AbAZZKGBV

Just remember to always reset the reading after each tire.

This gauge is presta, 0-30 psi. I've been using it for a couple years now and it's been great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WVG928/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gBs6Ab1RF4DRQ

I'm not giving you gold after you go on Autozone and find 13 tire irons, one lug wrench incorrectly labelled a tire iron, and then try to tell me I'm wrong. When you type tire iron into the Autozone search, it even shows a link to both a tire iron and a lug wrench because they're so often confused. http://www.autozone.com/tire-repair-and-tire-wheel/tire-iron?filterByKeyWord=tire+iron&fromString=search

edit: The "tire iron" you listed has the wrong picture. If you google the model number you find the right picture. https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AGIPortalWeb/WebSource/ProductDisplay/globalProductDetailDisplay.do?item_code=KTL34847


http://www.amazon.com/Core-Tools-CT118-Tire-Iron/dp/B00NIKN2BS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-2&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Core-Tools-CT116-Tire-Iron/dp/B00NIKN2G8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-4&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Ken-Tool-32116-16-Tire-Iron/dp/B000J1Y33A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-5&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Ken-Tool-34645-Mount-Demount-Tire/dp/B000MIUJNI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-6&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0007-Curved-Tire/dp/B000GZJ38O/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-7&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-005-Tire-Iron/dp/B009D3E36W/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-9&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Ken-Tool-32114-Piece-Small-Tire/dp/B000OCT7FI/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-10&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0115-Spoon-Type/dp/B000QG0AKI/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-13&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0049-Tire-Iron/dp/B000WJFF6S/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-14&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Core-Tools-CT108-Spoon-Type/dp/B00O8RWI6K/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-15&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Three-Spoon-Motorcycle-Levers-Changing/dp/B004NV6FE2/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828591&sr=8-16&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Ken-Tool-33220-Curved-Tire-Iron/dp/B000J1AT10/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828611&sr=8-17&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0409-Spoon-Type/dp/B000QFVJ5O/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828611&sr=8-18&keywords=tire+iron

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Steel-Irons-08-0006/dp/B000RG723U/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828611&sr=8-21&keywords=tire+iron

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015HURK64/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Reads the same as expensive gauges no issues. No need to spend alot of money on these.

As mentioned ADVRider.com .


Here is my take, from someone who does 10k mile cross country trips every year.

​

Bike is very subjective.


Sportster isn't a bad choice - they are fairly bullet proof, and you can always find a dealership if you need one.


I do my travelling on a V-Strom, and I do recommend them.


You also couldn't go wrong with a Kawasaki Concours ZG1000 ('86-2006) if you wanted to go a bit heavier on the tour aspect.


For a tent - get a two person (as mentioned) and for the love of god, get a free standing pop up. You ~will~ end up setting up camp in the dark, in pouring rain.


For keeping clean - Gym memberships aren't bad, although they do tend to keep you focused around metro/urban areas. Wet wipes will do for skipping a day, and you can always hit a travel plaza (Loves/Flying J/Travel America) and pay $8-12 to take a shower (those truck stop showers are clean. they scrub em down after every use). Personally, I've got my gym membership, but I still use the truck stop showers several times during my month long trips.


Other things you should bring:


Tire repair kit/Air compressor. $55 At amazon.

Headlamp.

Lithium-ION jump starter.

Solar charged power bank.

USB outlet for the bike.

Frog Toggs (You will get rained on)

Boot Gaiters (You will get rained on and your feet will get wet)

Surgical gloves (for cleaning the bike and keeping your hands dry)


Other things you should consider:

Avoid the interstate unless you have no other choice. Take the highways, the state roads. It'll be a slower, more scenic and enjoyable trip.

Make sure your bike insurance will spring for a flatbed if you need a tow.

Talk to the people you meet in the small towns you ride through. I've seen some truly amazing vistas and scenery that I wouldn't have ever known about had I not chatted with that old codger at the diner. They can also give you the scoop on any good spots to camp.

This is one of my two pressure gauges (the other one I bought in England years ago). I've found it highly accurate and reliable. See https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPL88NC/.

Thanks for the post. As someone who is a new homeowner in FL and lived here through Matthew and Irma but not through mass devastation, this helps me understand what that looks like.

Your comments about tire repair struck me. I am planning on ordering this well-reviewed plugger. What air pump do you have?

In regards to cleanliness I keep some body wipes too, but for helping larger amounts of people I definitely see the value of the shower + soap.

For the gas can, check out this one - much safer than the plastic cans and I am very happy with the flexibility of the nozzle. I'll likely get a long funnel for it too, just in case.

i recommend the stop and go for repairs like this.

Here is the one I have. Very heavy duty and 5 star rated on amazon. It goes up to 100psi. I need that for truck tires, but it might be better for you to get a smaller one for better accuracy.

This is the feeler gauge I bough: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T86ADZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The reviews were good so I just went with it. Can feeler gauges really vary that much from retailers?

...

I have these tire levers, which don't grip the bead for crap, and these tire irons which destroy the rim tape.

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-50001-Power-Sport-Smart/dp/B000M8SY0I

Next buy this and stop using paper to set your nozzle height.

Stiffer springs help so you dont have to level as often. Use nuts under the bed instead of springs and you never have to deal with spring sag.