(Part 2) Best rc vehicles & accessories according to redditors
We found 2,580 Reddit comments discussing the best rc vehicles & accessories. We ranked the 1,212 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
You know what to do
I got an Eachine 250 racer about a month ago. It has been a lot of fun, but there are a lot of details. My next racer will probably be a smaller/lighter 180 frame.
For FPV goggles I have three ideas. One, is get the status quo Fatshark goggles at whatever level you can afford. Two, get the HeadPlay HD goggles I got. Three, get the Avegant Glyph, which has the really nice feature of letting you pop them up and down without a band. I do really like my HeadPlay HDs, but they are big and bulky. I haven't perfected how to adjust the straps to get them to stay on my head well.
Arms, managed to break one without breaking a prop.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016Y5U1JO/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Capacitors, they pop off very easily. I lost a capacitor at the same time I broke an arm. Or a hot glue gun, I Highly recommend putting hot glue over the caps next to each arm to help avoid the loss in the first place. You want a low temperature hot glue gun to not melt any plastic or traces. I consider the capacitor issue a design defect, but you can work around it with hot glue. The original revision seems to have lacked the capacitors, from pictures I have seen online.
Capacitors for Eachine 250 racer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W8YYMZA/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Youtube video exampling how to solder them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLYVZUpL0K0
Get a Taranis X9D Plus. It is a great transmitter. Also get a X4R-SB receiver, and use SBUS. The D4R won't let you control the lights too, because it can't do PPM and PWM at the same time. You can control them with the X4R-SB, SBUS+PWM. SBUS has great latency, 5-10ms. I was recently talking to a sponsored racer who told me that PPM, which is supposed to be 27ms with the D4R, is really more like 100ms. It averages the four last frames together. This link includes a case and X8R, which I think will work as well as the X4R, but you should do the research. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014IYSXL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5
To do SBUS+PWM, requires a special bind procedure. You want channels 1-8 as SBUS, and 9+ as PWM. The most relevant part is "jump S1&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 or jump S2&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 (No telemetry)" Here is a link that talks about it.
http://www.frsky-rc.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6793
Small tie wraps like the ones already on the arms to hold the ESCs. You break an arm, and you will need to replace the tie wrap.
Soldering iron, solder, etc, because you have to desolder the ESC from the motor to replace an arm, and then resolder it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Qtips and rubbing alcohol for cleaning. Mix the alcohol 50/50 with water. The flying field was muddy after lots of rain.
Carrying case of some kind. You don't want it banged around in transport, and same with the transmitter. It is best to get the X9D with the case, because people price gouge on the case stand alone.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABQS7YI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Batteries, you can burn through them very fast. But watch out for their height. I bought some of the new "Graphene" 4S batteries, and they are really too tall to fit. Some people remove the back LEDs to make battery installation easier.
Battery charging/carrying bags to help with uncontrolled fires started by batteries. I have two, one for charging, and one for carrying.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HTH78W/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A battery charger if you want to use 4S batteries. The included charger is 2S/3S only. I have a Hi-tech X1 which will only charge one battery at a time. You can also get the X4 which will do four at once.
Battery charger for 4S batteries:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LH3392/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
XT60 banana plug cable for charging with the above charger:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XBSBYCG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A V shaped antenna mount to get the receiver antennas up in the air. When over head the carbon fiber body blocks the signal well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WV04P62/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A voltage monitor so you know to land when your battery voltage is low. The video signal includes the battery voltage as part of the OSD, but I prefer LoS while learning to fly. It lets me keep an eye on where I am in relation to trees. On the other hand I have yet to find a good place to mount a voltage monitor. With the length of the balance cable on batteries you are likely going to need a balance cable extension for 3S and another for 4S.
Voltage monitor:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EXPPF80/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3S balance cable extension:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XP4IO88/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4S balance cable extension:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JBP1RGG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Double sided tape to mount things on the top of the body, like the antenna mount and receiver.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NP1JQC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Small x-acto knife to help remove the double sided tape.
Electrical tape to tape down wires for lights and receiver.
Size 2.0 hex wrench for the frame screws. It will be needed to replace arms.
Scale that can measure grams. You want to knowing and control weight.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010HKEDPK/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sunglasses to avoid problems seeing on sunny days. Lets say you are flying LoS, and look into the direction of the sun. You can't see the quad well enough to control it, because of glare from the sun.
ESC flashing adapters to change/upgrade the firmware. I am not sure these are the right ones for the ESCs on the Eachine. I think they are, but I haven't tried it yet.
Atmel socket flashing tool:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V2W467I/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Atmel USB programmer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051SRZWC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB cable to use with transmitters and simulators. It is best to learn the basics in a sim, instead of replacing lots of parts.
USB cable for simulators:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DFDTU9G/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Old post of mine on learning in a simulator:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3zr8o0/cheap_fpv_acro_simulator_with_real_transmitters/
Be sure to set a fail-safe, which is very easy with the Taranis. I had a fly away with my first Eachine, because of a defective Spektrum DX6 and lack of fail-safe. After that I switched to the Taranis, which doesn't cost much more and has way more capacity.
Anything Nerf is fun, and there's plenty of Nerf sports equipment (like footballs) under $15 if their guns aren't your ideal gift (but the Nerf guns are fun).
Remote control helicopters (http://amzn.com/B00DPK11ZA) cost between $15 and $20. Remote control anything is fun though.
Robot stuff (http://amzn.com/B003GDDVPE) runs between $10-$20. Hex bugs (http://amzn.com/B00CMATSCC) are only $5.
Lego sets (http://amzn.com/B00NW2Q6ZG), K'nex sets (http://amzn.com/B00I2UZXZW), and Magic kits (http://amzn.com/B001BX3DQI), and paper airplane kits (http://amzn.com/B000MUQ2FU), which between around $10-$20.
Don't forget things kids can play together, like board games, cards (specially my favorite, Uno), dominos, etc.
These are all gifts that should work well for boys between 10 and 15.
Just like /u/whoknowswho2 said, it's bottom grade. The company is called New Bright and they are basically the cheap, Chinese company that makes tons of these and they are fun, but they have no ability to upgrade. My kids have 2 and they are generally speaking ok toys. The antenna tubes are annoying as I see you also have the antenna missing much like my kids.
If you can get $100 together, get a cheap ECX kit off amazon. This one my buddy has and it is a blast to drive, has 4wd and lots of spare parts. Dont be discouraged by your purchase, have fun, but if you want something to tweak and upgrade, look elsewhere.
Hm. That’s disappointing, but not shocking.
Is that a 3S 2200 mAh 25 C Gens Ace pack?
If so, it should be plenty powerful to run your pick of two Foamblast Valkyries or Krakens, or MTB Neo Rhinos. Foamblast, OutOfDarts, and Containment Crew are probably the largest US-based retailers of the motors, though you might be able to find smaller Etsy shops and what not that are more local.
I’d also recommend picking up a different Set of flywheels and cage; metal flywheels perform a bit worse than stock ones, and the canted cage is prone to whirlibirding darts. Kuryaka’s Daybreak wheels and Cage combo for $25 is a pretty great deal, and will hit 150 FPS with a 41 mm cage and Valkyries.
Just about.
As the others are saying, get some foam board and build a Flite Test Tiny Trainer from the free plans. You can build this as a glider and throw it around until you're confident with the controls, then add a motor to make a trainer - and then build the 'sport' wing and upgrade the battery to make it aerobatic.
Others are recommending the FS-i6 transmitter, which is a good choice as it'll be good when you get a few more models - but you can go a little cheaper if you don't mind only having one model. $32. If you stay in the hobby you'll definitely want something better before long though - but if you get serious you might want something even better than the i6. After a few years most people are using transmitters in the $100-$300 range.
Here's a 1806 motor $9
Here's a 12amp ESC with a BEC $7 - many quadcopter ESCs don't have a BEC, which you need to power your servos.
Here's a pack of 5 servos for $11 so you have a spare
Two 2s 800mAh batteries for $20
Here's a $11 charger - this is another item you'll want to upgrade if you get into the hobby, so you can charge bigger batteries, or several at once.
4 props for a $1
That's $91, leaving you a bit for foam board, hot glue, music wire (for push rods) and postage.
These links are for reference - I've not tried this exact stuff, but it matches the requirements of the plane. With a bit of hunting you might find the same things even cheaper - especially as I ignored the postage.
Yeah, the internal one is the ring charge, this is my external (you can get cheaper ones that work as wel)
This is the drone that I have built:
Been slowly building my first quad over the past month or so. Just when I have time. I bought a cheap carbon fiber kit off amazon. I will list everything I have bought so far.
Fly Sky FS-i6 Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3PZ3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fly Sky FSia6b RX (need this to run PPM instead of PWM): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3Q3XU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
LHI quad Kit with ESC's, Motors and Flight Controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010FMGUS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now the above kit comes with a CC3D flight controller, after some research, I decided that I would use a Naze32 rev6 board instead. I purchased that from Hobby king, I will list all hobbyking purchases after amazon.
Nylon hex nuts, screws and stand offs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EPLH08Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
XT60 connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9HM7NC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lipo Voltage Checker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7UXVL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Battery / GoPro straps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F7MEDW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 PS: good velcro isnt enough!
Tri-blade Props. Buy a couple of these!:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CHDNRRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Extra arms....JUST IN CASE! https://www.amazon.com/LHI-Carbon-thick-250mm-Quadcopter/dp/B01715HGNU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472346179&sr=8-1&keywords=LHI+arms
These are all the hobby king stuff that I bought:
Naze 32 FC ACRO: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__96841__AfroFlight_Naze32_Rev6_Flight_Controller_Acro_.html
1300 mah 3s 45-90c lipos: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18207__Turnigy_nano_tech_1300mAh_3S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html
Besides a lipo charger, the above will get you flying! Below is everything needed for the FPV aspect! I used to run RC cars so luckily I had a lipo charger from those days
Camera and transmitter from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262061528376?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Clover antennas from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272297376391?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Quanum Cyclops FPV Goggles from hobbyking: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__104150__Quanum_Cyclops_FPV_Goggle_w_Integrated_Monitor_and_Receiver_AR_Warehouse_.html
Now this is prolly the most basic, beginners fpv setup that you can buy... Its perfect for learning and crashing lol. I have about 3 flights with mine so far, about 4 batteries. Buy props lol, lots of props. Already had to change 1 arm too.
Looks like the 7000 series. There's a 7000 (assembled by user), 7500 (same but comes preassembled), and 7800 (don't remember what difference this had). There may have been others in the series but those are all I know of. I'm guessing the 7500 because the wires are run through the tubes.
It's discontinued and there's very little support available, though they do respond to email at [email protected]. I tried to get a replacement motor and they told me they don't sell them. So if you want to sell me one of your motors, I'll buy it!
Battery is a LiPo. I bought this charger for it:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LH3392
You could get something cheaper nowadays. But you have to unwrap the battery to see what its specs are to charge it properly. If it's 5000mAh (or some other number) it requires a different setting on the charger than the more common 2500mAh. That's one's PROBABLY a 2500mAh. Get a LiPo charger with a "Deans" connector, and read up carefully about charging it properly so it doesn't explode. If you know what mAh it is and how many cells it has, you can buy a cheapo charger that's hard-coded to that one exact combination. Or you can buy an expensive one like I linked to above to be able to charge multiple types.
It's an old, finicky gimbal that's hard to balance and charge, so if you give up, PM me and I'll buy a motor off of it because we still use one at a school I teach at.
I love eachines https://www.amazon.com/Eachine-700tvl-ET200-200mW-Transmitter/dp/B00WQZNZ54/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474931947&sr=8-1&keywords=eachine+200mw
The FS-T6 is kind of old, you're better off with the FS-i6 for the same price.
Someone else would have to comment about the FC; I haven't used KK2.1. You will need some way to get 5V to the flight controller (like a polulu 5V step down or matek PDB or something).
Also you'll need a power supply for the battery charger. And probably more batteries.
They specifically say it has a maximum transmission range of 1200m per FCC guidelines.
You will not get anywhere close to that in the city with the interference, especially because it is WiFi based instead of using their Lightbridge transmission technology like the P3A/P3P/P4, et cetera.
I recommend you pick up a set of Skyreat Parabolic Range Antennas from Amazon.
They cost $19.99 and extend range by quite a lot (several Amazon reviewers say that the antennas gave them more than a 1000m range boost). They will work for your Phantom 3 4K because it uses the same controller as the P3A and P3P, which those Skyreat antennas were designed for.
The problem with the Phantom 3 4K is really that it uses a WiFi downlink as opposed to Lightbridge like the P3A/P3P.
For the same price, I'd highly recommend the P3A if 4K isn't that important for you. Or, for $200 more, you get Lightbridge on the Phantom 3 Professional and can use the same batteries that you had used for your P34K.
Hope this was helpful.
> Eachine Wizard x220
Tattu makes some good batteries, both 3s and 4s.
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_6?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1495748569&sr=1-6&keywords=3s+lipo+battery
I have 3 Lumenier lipos and each one is great. Mine are 1850 3s, 2250 3s, and 2250 4s. For your size I wouldn't go past 1850 (and even that's a little long), they get pretty big and heavy after that. Worked good on my 280, but obviously that much bigger than a 220.
Get a Dubro balancer and these should work good.
Use any nailpolish and apply incrimentaly to the back of prop towards tip untill perfectly balanced.
Rctimer is a bit slow with shipping but the price and CS is worth it.
http://rctimer.com/product-665.html
Or Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Fiber-Propellers-Pairs-1045/dp/B01I9EG08Y/ref=pd_sbs_21_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GT194G3NXFE9N4A476XT
This is a good balancer.
https://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-499-Tru-Spin-Prop-Balancer/dp/B0006N72Y8/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1487510925&sr=1-1&keywords=dubro
I hear good things about this guy:
http://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-499-Tru-Spin-Prop-Balancer/dp/B0006N72Y8
If they're sending out free helicopters that they expect anyone to be able to fly it's probably a super cheap brand that they could get without metting with anyone. Probably a Syma S107.
Gen 8 in transit to me but I went ahead and ordered this Gens ace 7.4V 5000mAh 50C 2S LiPo Battery Pack HardCase and budget charger Lipo Battery Balance Charger Touch Screen Duo Discharger Dual Ac150w DC240W
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O2F9E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Amazon is great especially if you get fast shipping. Local hobby shops near you would also sell batteries, but they would be more expensive. However honestly, a local hobby shop most likely would sell batteries with banana plugs, and I don't think pre-made adapters that go from banana plug to XT30 exist premade, while you can easily find XT60-XT30 adapters. You will also need to buy a balance charger to charge your new batteries. These chargers make sure all the cells in your batteries are charged to equal voltages, which is important in terms of safety and increasing the longevity of your batteries. I ordered my own batteries and charger from Amazon and they arrived in a couple of days, so if you're comfortable with using Amazon there's nothing wrong with the batteries there. Heres an example of one https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485569927&sr=8-2&keywords=3s+1300mah
First off, let me say I do NOT have any personal experience with ECX, so I'll defer to others posting here on the quality, repairability, etc.
I did notice Amazon has an ECX Ruckus at your $100 price point. It is 1/18 scale versus your existing 1/12 scale, so will be a little smaller. https://www.amazon.com/ECX-Ruckus-4WD-Monster-Truck/dp/B00FAOM4GY
If you fly with 1s batteries a balance charger might not ever be worth it. (You can't balance a 1s battery) I use the IMAX b6ac but I have 2 other quadcopters that run 4s.
It's nice being able to parallel charge 6 batteries at a time, and makes batteries last longer being able to storage charge. Which both likely do. You'd need a paraboard to do more than one Inductrix battery
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID6U4LC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vpKEybSJESZA6
The Gens Ace battery I bought is a 2s 5000mah 50c. I'm not a lipo expert but I have had different lipos with different c ratings. Im not sure what impact it has on the battery. But don't worry about it. I would try to get something between 20 and 50c, you should be fine.
And yes, you will need a charger. When I bought my first lipo I almost made the mistake by charging it with the stock wall charger
Here are some links to Amazon. I have owned all these battery's and charger
This is my Gens Ace lipo, just bought it a week ago. Seems fine:
Traxxas 5000mAh 7.4V 2S 50C LiPo Battery Pack by Gens ace https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JCS7QPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ruiTVGqT7plCC
This is my venom lipo. Great brand, just pretty expensive:
Venom 25C 2S 5000mAh 7.4V Hard Case LiPo Battery with Universal Plug (EC3/Deans/Traxxas/Tamiya) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YNQXGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jf7DybTY2S501
This is my charger. Great charger, kinda out dated but works fine:
HiTec 44165 X1 AC Plus Single Port 6 Amp AC/DC Charger (NiCd/NiMH/LiPo) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LH3392/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_og7DybJFYKT6C
I would also recommend getting a lipo bag. Lipo batteries tend to do catch on fire, but none of mine have. I would still get one just in case. Just out your battery in it when you charge it and store it. Here's the link for one:
Generic CoBean Silver Large Size Lipo Battery Guard Sleeve/Bag for Charge & Storage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HTH78W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4h7DybR76NC3S
Other than that, post when you get your battery and charger so we can help you out on setting everything up. Just make sure you get a 2s. 3s is crazy. Also if your going to be driving on the street, make sure you got a pair of road tires because the battery will tear up your off road tires. Other than that, have fun!
I think I left it set at the default voltage.
I put a voltage alarm on most of my larger aircraft. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/BlueMart-Battery-Checker-Voltage-Buzzer/dp/B00EXPPF80/
I like this style because you can set the alarm voltage they are cheap. all you do is hang it off of the balance cable on your battery. They are also EXTREMELY loud. You can hear it from a pretty good distance.
I'm trying kyosho zeal now to see if that will work. http://www.amazon.com/Kyosho-Z8006-Vibration-Absorption-Sheet/dp/B002U2GS2K
I'm also thinking of upgrading to sunnysky motors, which should be much more balanced to kill vibration further.
These wont fit half his motors if they have self-tightening caps now.
http://www.amazon.com/Lock-Nuts-Threads-Team-Losi/dp/B0006O2F9E?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00
Best of both worlds--nylock nuts that go both directions.
No it does not. https://www.amazon.com/Hooshion%C2%AE-Simulator-Helicopter-Airplane-Controller/dp/B00DFDTU9G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465605564&sr=8-2&keywords=simulator+cable
Ah, my bad. Pulled them from a prior post. Here's a couple items:
http://www.helidirect.com/maytech-dji-phantom-v2-prop-with-dji-hole-9-4-x-4-3-inch-cw-and-ccw-with-self-tightening-nut-plastic-propeller.html
http://www.helidirect.com/maytech-with-dji-hole-9-4x4-3-inch-cw-and-ccw-in-pair-with-no-self-tightening-nut.html
Here's the prop balencer I use:
http://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-499-Tru-Spin-Prop-Balancer/dp/B0006N72Y8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397765291&sr=8-1&keywords=propeller+balancer
it's more designed for props with a fixed hole in the center. But you can put the rubber stopper at the edge of the pin and get self-tightening props to stay on it well enough to balance.
Actually they're pretty fun. I have one similar to this one and it's awesome for flying around indoors.
I don't know if I would buy one from a mall kiosk though because the price would probably be super high.
But for $15 it's a blast.
Only problem is that the battery dies really fast.
Eachine 700tvl ET200 5.8G 32CH 200mW Mini FPV Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQZNZ54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lqkoxb5XX7ACR
I have 3 of these and am very happy. 1 day prime, $27, compatible with your goggles and nearly any others. Easy control of channels and bands.
These antennas match well:
Crazepony 2pcs Aomway Antenna 5.8G 3DBi 4 Leaf Clover for FPV Multicopter TXRX (RP-SMA Male) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBBY456/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jvkoxbFCH34XZ
Looks like a good learning experience, but I personally learned what I needed to know online. Furthermore, looks like the quad you build in class is a lower level version of something like this link, but for about the same price you'll get a FPV setup out of the box with the ability to add an 'action' camera in the future. http://www.amazon.com/Eachine-Quadcopter-Camera-Transmitter-Monitor/dp/B017BGDT12/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464535691&sr=8-3&keywords=250+drone
Edit: After reading your comment, I realize that if you want Photography you should get a Phantom or similar, only $140 more than that nicer racer, and they are MUCH easier to fly, and much harder to lose. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/dji-phantom-3-standard-quadcopter-white/4406800.p?id=1219743453736&skuId=4406800&lsft=ref:212,loc:1&ksid=af53e6a5-bce6-4e97-b8b2-6a0e00ab6b66&ksprof_id=14&ksaffcode=pg28541&ksdevice=c&ref=212&loc=1
RC Helicopter. It is VERY stable and fun to fly. $15 http://www.amazon.com/Syma-S107-S107G-Helicopter-Gyro-/dp/B00F4WMAAW/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1462581942&sr=1-4&keywords=syma+helicopter
I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OTX7LG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for track day and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LH3392/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ov3lxb02YPP5E for other use, including charging to storage mode. Though I was able to find them much cheaper than they're listed here.
I personally am afraid of getting what I pay for when it comes to chargers and batteries so I do t go for the cheapest.
I want an early present!
My birthday was actually last friday but i guess this can count for next year :)
i've always wanted one of these
For a more budget option, I'd suggest the FlySky FS i6
https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-2-4GHz-Transmitter-Helicopter-Receiver/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y
It is reliable, fairly high quality, and also has cheap ~ $10 USD receivers (fs ia6)
A newer model, the Taranis X7 is a well made, reliable radio, although more expensive. However, it's the best on the market right now for its price. Its very new, and might be hard to find, but it's ~ $105 price point is well worth it.
http://www.getfpv.com/frsky-taranis-q-x7-2-4ghz-16ch-transmitter-white.html
hmm those should be fine. I also run like 5 of these in my mix of batteries:
https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2
They work great for me. Another thing thats super cheap and easy to try is swapping out the battery connector. I hear a lot of people talk about getting voltage sag making it hard to do flips and rolls and getting it fixed by just replacing the JST(1.25) connector. Never had the issue personally but I have seen a lottt of people talk about it happening to them.
I use this battery for my stryfe with hellcats and it has worked great for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497552006&sr=8-1&keywords=tattu+3s
It's not to bad, this is above average RTF (need FPV goggles though, that will set you back about R3000, but it's a one off purchase.) after that, the props, motors, arms ect ect aren't to expensive.. bulk buy some good props, a few sets of motors & you should be fine.. unless you fly into walls!
The Blade nQX FPV was my first quad and I love it. I got the RTF which included transmitter and fat sharks. As I started to get serious I got myself a Spektrum DX6i and a USB dongle for flying simulators, which accelerated my skills in very short time.
I have 5 batteries but that's only around 30 mins flying, before 3-4 hours of recharging. Unless you get yourself a multi-slot charger to cut recharge times down.
In the past 3 months I've gone through 2 or 3 sets of motors, about 4 or 5 sets of props, a new 4-in-1 flight controller and replaced the canopy with half a ping pong ball. Also, as you'll see in my image below, I've done some repairs on the feet because the frame tends to crack after many heavy landings.
Twice now, after nasty crashes the camera's power leads came loose and I had to resolder them, but a few days ago the camera died altogether, so a new one is on its way. Thankfully removing the camera reduces weight to increase flight times as I fly it line of sight indoors and out.
So it's obvious that I'm addicted enough to continuously replace parts. It has taken a beating as I learned to fly, and the parts are not expensive.
Here's what it currently looks like, without a camera. I originally made those little antennae from cable ties to protect the FPV cloverleaf antenna when it lands upside-down, but they are also visually useful for LOS flying.
the usual cheap voltage alarms require attaching to the balance port. that way they can monitor the voltage of each individual cell.
I would go ahead and pick up one of these up. it is critical that you always have a way to know how your voltage is doing. That alarm should be set to start beeping as soon as a cells voltage gets to 3.5v.
pro tip, your individual cells should never go more than .05 of a volt different. so your 3s when fully charged should be 4.20, 4.20 and 4.20, and when you are done flying it should be no lower than 3.50, 3.50, 3.50. if you fly hard it might not evenly discharge your battery so you might end up with something like 3.55, 3.58, 3.60. In theory you could just charge this battery again and get one or two more flights out of it before balancing it but its better to balance quickly before charging again.
Let me know if you have any more questions!
It appears that your heli doesn't have fwd/backward control. When given enough throttle, the tail rotor begins to spin tilting the helicopter forward. You'll have much better luck with one of these Syma S107 helicopters. They are the best for toy-grade helis.
Funnily enough, I know a guy who is both an IFR certified pilot and an aircraft owner who happily flies his Phantom quadcopter in Class D airspace, as well as the busiest circuit in my area.
Having a PPL means nothing if the common sense isn't there.
Furthermore, 99% of "drone" operators still aren't causing problems. Most of the quads being sold are basically toys, and absolutely no different than the little coaxial helis that were all the rage a few Christmas's ago.
Banning every unmanned flying device or somehow trying to regulate them will be quite literally impossible. You'd have to regulate the sales of all 72 Mhz and 2.4 Ghz radio control gear, which is on it's own a multi-million dollar industry.
Are you suggesting the FAA sends officials to someones house if they are caught flying something like this?
Thanks a lot. I was trying to do some research before posting and I guess I was looking at old information. how do these changes look?
Chassis: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Yokomo-1-10-RC-RWD-DRIFT-CHASSIS-YD-2S-Rear-Wheel-Drive-Drift-KIT-DP-YD2S/202804677855?hash=item2f3819ccdf:g:ExQAAOSwCMRczQcp
Motor + ESC: http://www.rcmart.com/hobbywing-quicrun-3650sd-135t-brushless-sensored-motor-wonisiki-hell-blaze-p-70973.html?cPath=1560_1301
Battery: https://www.amazon.ca/Gens-ace-Battery-HardCase-Approved/dp/B00WOAWHUK
Charger: https://www.amazon.ca/Meiyiu-Battery-Charger-Digital-Discharger/dp/B07NW99VLM/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=7.4V+2s+lipo+charger&qid=1571863442&sr=8-16
servo: https://www.ebay.com/c/1752440977
Gyro: https://www.ebay.com/itm/YOKDPP-302V4-Yokomo-DP-302-V4-Drift-Steering-Gyro-/123636436439
I bought mine earlier this year for 600 and have no regrets!
Wi-fi only can be a little frustrating. Originally I couldn't fly above 300ft without signal issues. I bought some parabolic antenna boosters which made a significant difference. As long as you don't need to fly out of sight (which technically is against FAA rules anyway) the P3 4k + boosters is worth it.
The only other downside is streaming quality. If you plan to do a lot of live flights on FB or YouTube buying the professional might be worth it.
Besides that, it's a great drone for the money. I say go for it!
I just bought a Makerfire RTF FPV, yay!
I saw the Makerfire team recommended these batteries in their Q/A on Amazon:
Crazepony 4pcs 250mAh 1S 3.7V 35C Blade Inductrix Lipo Battery with 4pcs Plastic Tubes
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSLAA9W
***note: They actually said 220mah when they posted the link to 250mAh, so I don't know which is wrong -- the link, or 220mah recommendation? What battery should I go with?
And this, to charge it:
Crazepony 1S Lipo Battery Charging Board Blade Inductrix Ultra Micro JST-PH Parallel Connect Plate mCX mCPX
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID6U4LC
Now for my question:
Don't I need some kind of special apparatus to plug this into my wall?
Is that what this is thing is?:
Crazepony SkyRC Quattro 1-Cell 1S Lipo Battery Charger Blade Inductrix Discharger MX mCPX E-flite Connector
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IGK5RSA/ref=psdc_2234135011_t1_B01ID6U4LC
Is that $49 thing good enough? Overkill? Just right?
Thanks!
In the true spirit of the hobby, you should dump some cash in these. But really:
LiPo charger - $48 - Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power (6Amps, 50Watts): LiPo, LiHV, LiIon, LiFe, NiCd, NiMH, Pb Lead Acid AC/DC Professional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Discharger (Version 2) w/ Micro USB Port, Temperature Port, 2S-6S JST-XH Balance Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ND7J38C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_htDxybG82Q702
2 batteries - $29 ea - Gens ace LiPo Battery Pack 5000mAh 50C 2S 7.4V HardCase 21 with Deans T Plug for RC Car Boat Truck Roar Approved https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WOAWHUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1tDxybYW7ARFP
2 brushless combos - $43 ea. - GoolRC 3650 3100KV/4P Sensorless Brushless Motor with 60A Brushless ESC（Electric Speed Controller）for 1/10 RC Car Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCRZD1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LuDxybH8WPFP6
2 2.4ghz tx rx bundles - $38 ea - FLYSKY RC 3 CH Transmitter TX FS-GT3B For CAR Boat 2.4Ghz 2.4g w/ Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNJNXVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LwDxybYGHVVE8
So at $280 they would both be fully up to date with lower end electronics. The sky is the limit.
Better than my first flight, instant flip into concrete.
If you have CW & CCW motor shafts like I did make sure to get the correct nyloc nuts, I got them from Amazon for the reverse thread. You can probably find them elsewhere, but I had trouble doing so as nobody carries ccw nyloc except LOSI.
http://www.amazon.com/Lock-Nuts-Threads-Team-Losi/dp/B0006O2F9E
Also if you don't have something to tighten them, get yourself a 8mm wrench of some sort.
Hey
Disclaimer: I do not own a nano cp s nor a dx6i, and english is my second language so…
I did a bit of research about collective pitch heli, so I might be able to answer some of your questions so:
First, Single transmitter versus AR610 receiver: the one with the AR610 receiver, it's if you want to use it in boat/planes/car or even bigger helicopter. If you only plan to fly the cp s it is not need to buy (for now, flying is addictive).
Mode 2 is a good idea for helicopter, so you have your cyclic on the same stick (right one).
You do not need anything else to fly with nano, only the transmiter. It would be a very good idea to get more batteries and a charger unless you plan to fly 6/7min and wait more than half an hour to fly again for your battery to charge (and it's a good idea to wait for the battery to cool down after flying and after charging (and for cp s motor too unless they will burn very fast too)).
You'll need a charger, two ways of going:
1s charger
Charger and parallel harness/board, more hassle than the 1s one, but if you plan to fly something bigger someday, you would have to buy one anyway.
If you only want a 1s charger, looks like something like this http://www.amazon.com/E-Flite-Celectra-4-Port-Battery-Charger/dp/B001XIMGP0/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1B607A3B3CNZK8RSK8R9 or Hitec X4 (I think) would be a good buy.
For the battery, as the horizon hobby website show, it uses the same as Nano qx so:
http://www.amazon.com/4-Pack-Lectron-Pro-3-7-volt/dp/B0088W63AS/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_cp_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41r%2BuA5GizL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR135%2C135_&refRID=0F6HY90N2525TFX3XDWA (I didnt test those mysef)
Mylipo.De 205mah (didnt test those myself too)
I tested those for nano Qx: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__38358__Turnigy_nano_tech_160mah_1S_25_40C_Lipo_Kyosho_E_flite_Nano_CP_X_Parkzone_Etc_EU_Warehouse_.html but they were a bit bigger than the original battery, had to use a dremel to make it fit, not that of a good idea. (edit: they are not high quality battery, they are standard, cheap, but you get what you pay for. For me at least, couple of them already show increased resistance (might be because of the shitty plug))
For sim:
I'm using this one everyday:
http://www.heli-x.info/cms/ it even have a mac version!
Now, for the cable, I have no idea since I dont have a dx6i.
But google said:
Heli-X DX6I and Mac
I suggest you ask your question on:
Helifreak They have a section special cp s
Some very interesting reading:
Newbies guide to the DX6i for RC helicopters how to set up the dx6i to calm down the helicopter
From tail-in to all 8s and funnels in 6 months. Plan to learn 3d flying ? Read that post, very interesting.
Why the nano cp s and dx6i combo by the way ?
Well, went longer than expected … heh
If you have the brushless model, the Dynamite Taser ESC has a LVA onboard. It will cut the power when the lipo reaches a user defined threshold. Also when a Lipo is getting CLOSE to 50% used (and I've noticed this in my Ruckus) There is a VERY noticable drop in launching power. Regardless, this is the standard for LIPO alarms. If it looks like this, its the same thing, brand isnt important. and they are retarded-ly loud.
What kind of capacity do you need? Maybe buy or make a 3sXp Li-Ion battery that has however many in parallel you want to fulfill your physical size/capacity requirements.Great Scott has a really great video on him making this but you can buy pre made packs too like these:
(Note that with any of these packs you will need a balance charger or a BMS that has charging function)
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=3s&qid=1572316137&sr=8-5
https://www.amazon.com/FLOUREON-Packs-1500mAh-Battery-Truggy/dp/B074PPMFMC/ref=mp_s_a_1_24_sspa?keywords=3s+lithium+ion&qid=1572316188&sr=8-24-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFUSEcwSDg5RFlGQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRJZD1BMDI1NzY2ODIxM0IwTURRTlU3MlcmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDg3MjQwNjM4VkJGREQ1QVpNQTQmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
ECX Ruckus 1/18th scale is hobby grade and a blast. If you break anything, you should be able to get parts from Horizon Hobby or order them through your local hobby shop.
compare that traxxas charger to this one I think they are the same one...
Hitec X1
Edit: looks like the traxxas is rated for 80 Watts the hitec for 55. Both for 6 Amps
Depending on what you're looking to mount I've found this stuff is excellent for flight controllers! It's chased at least a few ghost problems out of a couple rigs. Kyosho Z8006 Zeal Vibration Absorption Sheet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U2GS2K/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2l4Yub0BA34CD
I have this, it's just copper plates that go over the antennas. They definitely work, so I'm sure one you have to install like that would work even better.
The only issue I face with mine is if I try to fly straight above myself the signal gets bad as the range extenders are trying to push the signal straight out. I did a test flight with them the other day and flew 3200 feet away with zero signal loss according to my logs. Looking at my other logs where I didn't even fly half that distance I would get signal loss in the same area without the range extender.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O2F9E/
These are the ones I keep in stock in my kit bag.
You need a cable that accepts that jack and turns it into a USB. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DFDTU9G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415311319&sr=8-1&pi=SL75
I'm getting this for all of my friends. Who doesn't want a helicopter?
The Blade Nano is way fun and can easily be flown indoors or out (barring strong winds.) I have replaced literally every part on mine (frame, controller, props, engines) as I learned and when one got stuck in a try I was back to flying for $70 to get a BNF (bind and fly- meaning I just bought the quad, not a controller with it.) I bought this charger which lets me juice up 4 batteries at a time for pretty much non-stop flying.
Thanks again Spark_Tek. I am thinking the Senton is the way to go. Would this charger and battery work well with it? And would I need any other type of connector, concerns about ESP etc.
Also, after researching a bit, some ESP's detect low voltage and that is really important it seems with LiPo. Does the included ESP do a shutoff? The alarm things that get squished in don't appear robust.
iMAX B6AC Version 2 Digital LiPo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZGZZ40K
Gens ace 7.4V 5000mAh 50C 2S LiPo Battery Pack
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WOAWHUK
No problem, I ended up getting a JST-PH 2.0 plug for my Tiny6. Downside is you need new batteries unless you want to do some sketchy soldering.
These have been great though, plenty of power, and comes with the plug upgrade: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0Z0ME2/
I used this one in a build almost just like yours.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WHCQYXG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521156038&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gens+ace+25c+3s+lipo&dpPl=1&dpID=5118RTKVUBL&ref=plSrch
I did just find this one too for roughly the same price, but better
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WJN4LG0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521156183&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gens+ace+25c+3s+lipo&psc=1
:'(
they had these to me within 3 days
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O2F9E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
I like my flysky. They're the same as Turnigy I think? Remember that there's a huge difference between the FS-T6 and FS-i6, the i6 being newer with telemetry and stuff. link for Flysky
Also recommended are the OrangeRX and TX systems. Link to Orange TX
Just bought this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001XIMGP0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1420214353&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
That may be the case, which would suck. Look into one of these. You can charge 1-6 batteries and it treats them as a single one cell battery. More convenient and less convoluted if you ask me.
The charger claims to work with
>Any other RC 3.7V 1S LiPo battery with JST
The batteries are Micro JST 1.25, so not sure if the charger will work. I use this one to charge mine
The batteries you linked are the correct ones, yes.
Do you not want to solder or you dont know how? you can build one with an F3 board so you can add beta flight for a little more (if you have a transmitter already that is)
So would this work?
Battery: Floureon 2 Packs 3S 11.1V 2200mAh 25C RC is too heavy and too weak. Your 4 motors + 5045 triblades will draw up to 24Ax4=~100A of current and battery nominal capability is up to 2,2x25C=55A. Look for 1300mAh 45C or even better 65C.
For instance this Tattu battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/
Or even better this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9SYC0/
These batteries are really good ones, will give you more punch than Floureon ones.
FC: Naze32 is a bit yesterday. If it is your first quad then probably you can use it. Better use SP Racing F3, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Makerfire-Flight-Controller-SPRacing-Deluxe/dp/B01JS1Z38A
Mount the FC on top with Kyosho Z8006 Zeal tape. Dont worry about protecting it, if you have a bad enough crash that it would madder, you'll probably bend a few pins anyway.
Mount your battery to the bottom with a standard battery strap. I cant tell if you built this to fold or not, but if you didn't use the space between the two plats for your power harnins. If you want to build a clean plate system under it you can do it later, they tend to just be a pain fir your first build.
I second this, but I though it came with a wall charger?
Edit: never mind I'm dumb, the DC wall adapter is separate from the actual charger E-flite Celectra 4-Port 1-Cell 3.7V 0.3A DC Li-Po Charger
Okay I'l definitely be buying the balancer/tester. It seems like all the chargers on hobyking worth buying are on back order. I was looking at this one on amazon because its fairly cheap would it be okay?
I was thinking of getting this...but I haven't fully decided yet.
https://www.amazon.com/Eachine-Quadcopter-Camera-Transmitter-Monitor/dp/B017BGDT12/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468373360&sr=8-2&keywords=racing+drones
https://www.amazon.com/Parabolic-Professional-Advanced-Controller-Transmitter/dp/B017IP2P98/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468177167&sr=8-1&keywords=phantom+3+range+extender
https://www.amazon.com/Gens-ace-Battery-2200mAh-Airplane/dp/B00WJN4LG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511932976&sr=8-1&keywords=11.1+volt+battery
or
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-2200mah-3s-20c-lipo-pack.html?___store=en_us
Would 4 of these work? And can you explain the discharge? Do you mean once the battery reaches 80/100, I shouldn't drain it any further?
https://www.getfpv.com/dtn-pico-ph2-micro-paraboard.html (more on the way)
https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-Battery-Charging-Inductrix-Parallel/dp/B01ID6U4LC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510939122&sr=8-3&keywords=crazepony+parallel+board&dpID=41fwQN1hWpL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch (cause this is an unofficial account and I'm not here to just promote this company)
Amazon makes a huge difference, price wise. What is your budget on a battery/charger?
Cheapest LiPo Charger- $22
3s 45c LiPo - $14
This a really cheap setup that will give you all the power you need.
Eachine Racer 250 FPV Quadcopter Drone with HD Camera Eachine I6 2.4G 6CH Transmitter 7 Inch 32CH Monitor RTF Mode 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BGDT12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7EtnxbB0JVWWB
Would something like this be a good deal?
[The ET200] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQZNZ54/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_MSGmxbNBM58SY)
It's got the small LEDs to show you what channel you are on. And comparing the list of channels from the transmitter and the list of channels from the receiver, they are listed as being the same.
At this point I don't know what one to believe if either. I wish I could get another receiver to link up to it so I could actually see if the channels are what they say they are. Because as this point my goggles are the only thing hooking up and it doesn't have a channel display.
How do you feel about parabolic range boosters?
I've been thinking about buying THESE to boost my phantom 3 pro range since my area has a lot of trees
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ECX-Ruckus-4WD-Monster-Truck/dp/B00FAOM4GY
I am reading to go brushless, with my budget, say less than $300, and requirements, is that possible?
I bought this: Traxxis 6AMP but I'm pretty sure this is the same thing, just rebranded and cheaper: HiTec 6AMP
Its got a decent range for batteries (2cell - 6cell), charges different batteries other than LiPo and has a nice read out as well as a wall plug and car battery leads for field charging.
Edit: after looking at that turnigy accucell, it looks like I got hosed pretty good :/
Doesn't mention the strength of the vTx. Might not happen.
I was using this Eachine. It was good.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQZNZ54/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475128653&sr=sr-1&keywords=eachine
This would be really good. http://www.team-blacksheep.com/products/prod:unify_pro
The FOV on those goggles isn't that good. I just upgraded to Dom V3's and the immersion is amazing.
same thing was happening to me when I got my whoop, I was using those square batteries that come with the E010 and a single tiny whoop official stick battery(i've never charged to HV bc I don't feel like i need to)
my whoop would fall after a few seconds with the E010 batts but not with the good one.
Try some crazepony batteries off of amazon, they even come with an extended cable to solder on
https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523912747&sr=8-3&keywords=crazepony
Here is the link to the parallel charger:https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-Battery-Charging-Inductrix-Parallel/dp/B01ID6U4LC
And here is my lipo charger(works fine with all other lipos):
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/imax-b6ac-v2-professional-balance-charger-discharger.html
Gens Ace
Tattu
http://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-499-Tru-Spin-Prop-Balancer/dp/B0006N72Y8
You'll need a prop balancer no matter what. vibrations cause multirotors to fly poorly.
Blheli ESC seem to be more popular nowadays than SimonK. Pick an ESC that can handle your peak current, plus, some overhead. The bigger ones that can handle more power generally are only a few dollars extra and should be more durable.
I'd recommend getting ESC and motors that can run on 3S and 4S. Once you've been flying on 3S for a long time, going to 4S makes flying more fun and exciting because you've suddenly got more thrust!
I prefer carbon fiber for larger props. plastic will flex and flutter at high rpm, robbing you of thrust and increasing power usage.
You'll need a prop balancer. This one on Amazon is pretty high rated but may be more than you need plus pretty expensive. I have something similar to this and it works for me. After you get one just do a search on YouTube for prop balancing.
Ah, thank you for clarifying
It's this one: GoolRC FS-i6 AFHDS 2A 2.4GHz 6CH Radio System Transmitter for RC Helicopter Glider with FS-iA6 Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_WKGOybBQJ7P6M
I saw that there are a few sim adaptors but it's kind of daunting not knowing which ones are good or junk
One of the posts on this subreddit asked about transmitters, and a person replied that this was a good cheap option in terms of transmitters. https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Flysky-Transmitter-Helicopter-Receiver/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y. What do you think about this one? (By the way, he didn’t link this specific one, but he said that this transmitter was a good option)
The best option I found was this Celectra 4-Port 1S 3.7V 0.3A DC Li-Po Charger but I just cant justify buying it when it cost almost as much or in my case more then what I paid for my Quad. Also the AC cord is optional and it uses D batteries.
I just use 2 USB chargers with my 5 batteries and get almost an hour before I have to wait for them to charge. Find that works for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Turnigy-2200mAh-20C-Lipo-Pack/dp/B0072AEY5I/
Here's one for fairly cheap. From HobbyKing.
https://www.amazon.com/Gens-ace-Battery-2200mAh-Airplane/dp/B00WJN4LG0/
Here's a GenAce battery that works too.
DON'T get that kit - the pieces are ancient and on a 2200mAh battery that thing will barely fly.
Here's a suggestion: instead of a 5-inch, build a Whoop. The advantage of doing that is 1) it's much, much cheaper, and 2) you could fly the thing in the classroom if you wanted.
Shipping won't be a problem - we're getting everything from Amazon prime.
BetaFPV F4 FC - We start with this. My first thought was to use the much cheaper Silverware-based Lite board. However, the problem with that is getting a transmitter that works with it. So instead we're going to go with a Betaflight board. Part of what you can do is use the Project Mockingbird tune on it and explain how the settings impact flight.
Beta65S Frame (Package of 2) - Ideally, we would use the set that includes the frame and motors, but sadly that's currently out of stock so we're going to have to buy the frame and motors separately.
These 7x16 motors - The BetaFPV motors are better, but those are out of stock at the moment. Plus, you're not going to be racing this thing, so we're not going to worry about great motors for this project.
FPV Camera and VTX - Again, we're not going for the greatest quality here, just something that will work. If you have access to a 3D printer, you can print off a mount. Otherwise, we're going to secure this to the board with some outdoor mounting tape and small rubber band hair ties.
Props - We're going with 4-blade for thrust - You get 16 of them, so 4 pairs.
Now you have a quad. What's our total price (as of today on Amazon, all with Prime shipping)?
$87.94 - Yup, you have a Betaflight enabled quad with OSD for less than $100. And this quad will actually be a decent flying one too. The only thing you will need to solder are the power wires to the camera.
We also need batteries and a charger. For the charger we're going to go with a basic USB charger. Nothing fancy, but it will do. For batteries, these batteries will be fine for your purposes. And we get 4 of them. We're at $108.92, with Prime shipping.
Now we have our aircraft, battery, and charger. We still need a transmitter and some FPV gear. This is where stuff gets really expensive, but we have some options that will work for your project.
First, BETAFPV sells a really basic transmitter that uses FrSKY for $39. Normally, I'd say get a QX7, but we're artificially restricting ourselves to Amazon Prime for this. This really is a no-frills, toy-grade transmitter, but it works. And now our total cost is at $150.
For FPV, you have two options. The first is a bargain-basement headset. Here's one for $50. Is it going to be a great headset? Heck no! But it will work just fine.
The other option is to display the FPV feed on a TV. If you're going to do an in-class presentation, I'd go that way. Make sure you have a TV with an analog input though! Here's a cheap FPV receiver with analog output. $16! You don't get diversity, you don't get a great antenna, but again, we're just going for the basics. This receiver requires a 12V power supply, which could either be a 3S LiPo or a plug-in one. Since you don't have any LiPos, let's just go with a wall power supply. $13.
Either way, you're at under $200 all-in. For your project, you can show how to install Betaflight, show how different tuning parameters affect flight, and even fly indoors for an in-class demonstration! Plus, if you decide to get into the hobby, you can get yourself a QX7 and a better set of FPV goggles and have a decent quad for indoor flying.
I haven't included any soldering equipment - for this, you just need a fine-tip soldering iron. You just need to attach the four lines of the FPV camera to the board - red to positive, black to negative, the camera output to the camera input on the board, and the board video output to the VTX input on the camera. The connections will be VERY small, so this is where getting help would be a good idea.
For the camera mount, there are any number of them on Thingiverse that would work just fine. Otherwise, get some 3M mounting tape and the small rubber bands used for kid's hair. Put the mounting tape on the board and use the rubber band between the tiny little nubs on the side of the frame to secure the camera down. If you have access to a 3D printer, this camera mount will work just fine. 3D printing the parts can be part of your class project.
This would give you literally everything you need to fly, some opportunities to set up Betaflight and tune things, and is something you could actually use if you decide to fly FPV when the project is done. Plus, everything's on Amazon Prime so the shipping should not be a problem.
Just get a 1s
balanceparallel board, make sure the plugs match the batteries you have and follow the normal rules of all batteries at very close to the same voltage and such when using it.I never bothered balancing my ZMR250 props, but for my big S800 Hexacopter I decided to get a Du-Bro 499 Tru-Spin Prop Balancer. It works amazingly well, and I like to think that it helped reduce jello in my video.
just so you know, this is the quality of an FPV camera and you will be getting breakup lines like this as bodies and stuff getting in the way will cause signal loss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nU96HLe-hcs
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Here is stuff you can use from Amazon for the AIO Fpv Camera
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https://www.amazon.com/Wolfwhoop-WT05-Transmitter-Antenna-Quadcopter/dp/B06XJMQQ6Y/
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https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2
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https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M6G2MD
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Here is how to hook it up to a battery https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOcxdVX6zYk
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On the receving end, I assume you will then want to output to HDMI? The best/easiest way to do this is to buy two of these dock kings and hdmi adapters, one for each camera. If you have power nearby you can use a regular 5.5mm DC jack power adapter like for laptops. Or you can buy the battery packs for them. You will also want at least 2 antennas on each receiver, 1 omni and 1 patch antenna pointing in the direction of the actors
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https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=669
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https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?products_id=704
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https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=687
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https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-Antenna-Protective-Covering-Multicopter/dp/B01N9QM409
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https://www.amazon.com/RCmall-Accuracy-Directional-Circularly-Polarized/dp/B0772WJB5R
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You will have to learn/read instructions on how to set each camera and receiver to their matching frequency bands
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It's not directly trees related, but I spend twenty USD on a toy remote control helicopter a few weeks back (http://www.amazon.com/Syma-S107-S107G-Helicopter-Gyro-/dp/B00F4WMAAW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419348786&sr=8-2&keywords=toy+helicopter) and it's very fun to fly after burning.
Mom: gift card to Michael's or a nearby crafts store, or maybe some beads and string for her to create some jewelry?
Pops: remote controlled helicopter
Sister: Apples to Apples, Cards Against Humanity, Shot Glass Roulette Drinking Game or some similar entertainment piece.
BIL: Microbrew kit? Check out www.odditymall.com for really obscure stuff.
Friend's daughter: Doodle track car, Moon in my Room or Inanimate Stickers. Little kids typically like stickers, drawing and toys so anything that's easy cleanup for parents would likely be a real winner.
https://www.amazon.com/Parabolic-Advanced-Controller-Transmitter-Extender/dp/B017IP2P98/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1496172696&sr=8-4&keywords=phantom+3+signal+reflectors
You don't need the gold one. This one is more expensive than the $10 one, but that one only comes with one piece. You might save money with aluminum but I haven't tried that so I'm not sure
I need an 11.1v lipo that will fit in my crane stock, and I hear that the side tubes in those stocks only accommodate for 9.6v batteries, and that 11.1v nunchucks will stick out the butt plate. I found this lipo, its rc spec and should be the right size to fit in the space in between the two tubes in my crane stock. Can anyone offer advice? Thanks!: https://www.amazon.com/Gens-ace-Battery-2200mAh-Airplane/dp/B00WJN4LG0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_21_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FPZ0KEZ1JZ9ETRYRB9X6
Just get the right one and you'll be ok.
http://www.amazon.com/Kyosho-Z8006-Vibration-Absorption-Sheet/dp/B002U2GS2K
great stuff. sticky and hard to cut, but really damps and isolates well.
Hiiii thank you. I dont really have much on my wishlist but the most random item would probably be this. Its a range extender for a drone controller haha. Lets me fly and film much further than I currently can.
Sure.. After all the reviews that I have seen.. The better flight time vs weight vs good punch... Are 205mAh, 230mAh.. Higher C rate better punch...
Ej:
Crazepony 4pcs 205mAh HV 1S Lipo Battery 30C 3.8V for Tiny Whoop Blade Inductrix Micro JST Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU0H1U0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q.lPzbF7TJ2RP
Crazepony 4pcs 230mAh HV 1S Lipo Battery 30C 3.8V for Tiny Whoop Blade Inductrix JST-PH 2.0 Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0Z0ME2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X.lPzb1J1Q3H8
IMPORTANT : Be sure that connectors on the batteries that you get are JST-PH 2.0, or PowerWhoop Connector..
Are they 5mm shafts? I got some of these. A pack of 8 for 6 bucks is pretty nice.
[4 batteries and one JST-PH 2.0 connector] (https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499974130&sr=8-1&keywords=power+whoop+battery)
I went with a Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack for the controller with this charger and they are XT60
Could I use the same charger for the Quad packs? I have not pulled the trigger on the Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 3S 45/90 Lipo Pack yet.
I'm guessing the recommendation for the 1800mah 25-35C is to fly slower at first right? We would by flying FPV but not racing it so I think that's probably a good recommendation.
Since we are already using 2200mAh 3S 20C with an XT60 connector could we just use the same exact pack for the quad? It's rated at 20 constant, 30 burst and we could always use a spare for the controller if we go with a lighter battery with higher discharge for the quad later.
We aren't carrying a GoPro or anything so it would probably support the 2200.
I run this one for those type of batteries. I got it with my MSR I bought a few years ago. It will shut off when each battery is full.
https://www.amazon.com/E-flite-Celectra-4-Port-1-Cell-Charger/dp/B001XIMGP0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480811429&sr=8-1&keywords=e-flite+4+port+charger
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BGDT12/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_a2dOwbDTVFNNZ
My second thought is if this body breaks i should be able to swap components to a new body, assuming they were in good order.
I have the turnigy, it's cold here and also I'm just building my first racing quad and want to train. Is it this cable? http://www.amazon.com/Hooshion%C2%AE-Simulator-Helicopter-Airplane-Controller/dp/B00DFDTU9G/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1453490396&sr=1-1-fkmr2&keywords=USB+Flight+Simulator+FMS+Cable+Set
This is the FlySky one on Amazon for only 4 bucks more with free shipping.
I personally don't have very large hands and really enjoy mine. I have both the FS-i6 (which is the same as the tgy-i6) and the 9x and I always want to fly with the i6.
It has a solid build quality and can use PPM (only one cable from the rx to fc for less clutter) if you buy this Rx to use with it.
I personally think that the i6 is a really great radio. That being said however, it seems like everyone else likes the 9x, so you may just want to get that.
If you do happen to get the i6 and have some questions I would totally be willing to help out if I can! Cheers.
it's in serie. Do you mean one of this? https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Battery-Balancer-Charger-7-4-11-1V/dp/B00CF93RF4
Here is the desktop version of your link
http://www.amazon.com/Kyosho-Z8006-Vibration-Absorption-Sheet/dp/B002U2GS2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420353994&sr=8-1&keywords=kyosho
Great stuff!
So as to where to get stuff... this will get you started if you haven't already.
I'll have more time in the week to finish out the part list including some misc components you'll need like batteries, battery straps, and battery non-spark battery connections.
Your receiver has to be the same protocol as your transmitter.
The battery you chose must have the same plug as your ESC (I use XT60, probably the most common). You can actually solder new connectors onto your battery or ESC but this can be a bit dangerous if you're inexperienced.
Those are pretty much the only two compatibility issues you may run into. Use a known powerplant (motor/prop combo) if you're inexperienced as pairing motors and props can get a bit complicated (kV, prop, power, battery voltage all are factors). The 2200kv turnigy motor with a 6x4 prop plugged into a 30A esc on 3 cells is tried and true.
For example these would work together: motor, ESC, Battery.
Good luck.
https://www.amazon.com/Kyosho-Z8006-Vibration-Absorption-Sheet/dp/B002U2GS2K#customerReviews is usually used in the drone world.
You will need a larger piece than this one I linked.
I use this for a different transmitter. It'll work if it has a trainer port in the back. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DFDTU9G/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_21_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4NJFBCJBC7AX5BA7E75Q
To use the telemetry you need the proper Frsky receiver and transmitter module. Then it looks like you plug the telemetry module into the buddy box port on the radio. There are some good videos of how to set up the telemetry that go through everything you need.
I use the 9xr with the frsky transmitter or the Immersion Rc long range module and have never felt a need for telemetry. The radio already has a stopwatch and timer on it, the long black receiver with 2 antennas has RSSI built in (on low signal it beeps the radio) and to monitor voltage I use a lipo alarm that also displays voltage. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EXPPF80/ref=pd_aw_sbs_7?pi=SL500_SY115&simLd=1
It beeps loud enough to be heard anywhere within LOS. I have also never lost control signal of a multirotor when flying LOS. Although, the module is pretty cool and takes care of all those issues in a small package.
you should maybe buy one from amazon like This one and then if its not the problem then just return it
I use this on my rev6 and it fly's great now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002U2GS2K/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469241249&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=kyosho+anti+vibration+pad
Here is the vtx im currently using on 3s.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WQZNZ54/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462084772&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=eachine+200mw&dpPl=1&dpID=31Sqdm4AjyL&ref=plSrch#
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DFDTU9G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
This cable works for me too.
It should of came with one. Did you get the $200 one? Best bet would be Amazon 3 days.
(3 s)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013I9RLVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486858191&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3s+lipo+battery&psc=1]
(4s)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013I9RSEU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486858270&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4s+lipo+battery&dpPl=1&dpID=41BMq3RoUYL&ref=plSrch]
Check out Gens Ace.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WOAWHUK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492268944&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gens+ace+lipo&dpPl=1&dpID=41r0nHzSG-L&ref=plSrch
Someone else posted this link for a set of locknuts with reverse threads.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O2F9E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Definitely on my buy list, best of both worlds seems like.
The thing is my project is going to be mobile, so I have to give it an external power source.
This is what I bought to power the whole thing, and I know I'm going to need some boot converters for this, as it looks like there's 4 pins I have to work with plugging in (like a red and 3 black) instead of two.
Yep. Gotta learn how to do that as well.
Here is the mobile version of your link
This is a little over budget, but what would you guys say about this one? http://amzn.com/B017BGDT12
A Syma S107. http://amzn.com/B00DPK11ZA
You're going to need this power cord for the imax b6 charger, for whatever reason they don't sell the power cord with the charger. http://amzn.com/B009VDPNXQ
You should also get this battery for your transmitter http://amzn.com/B00JERJZSS
Definitely invest in a voltage checker, this thing is invaluable in the field, if you discharge your batteries beyond a certain point they go bad, I've had two die on me so far because I let the voltage get too low. http://amzn.com/B00EXPPF80
You need some kind of power distribution board, to distribute power from your battery to the rest of the craft, something like this http://amzn.com/B00GQOZZUY
You will need these servo wires to connect your receiver to the kk2 http://amzn.com/B00P6JJFIS
These nylon standoffs will be really handy when you mount your flight controller and PDB (power distribution board) to the frame http://amzn.com/B00LGB2N1Q
Random stuff from the hardware store: Liquid tape, electric tape, big zip ties, little zip ties, velcro
That's probably not everything but you will be flying a lot sooner with all of this stuff
Get the $20 syma indoor helicopters on Amazon. They are great and cheap. They only work indoors though. It’s great for beginners, it’s only 3 channel. Once you master it you can move on to 4 channel. Enjoy. I saw them at fry’s also, same price.
Syma S107/S107G R/C Helicopter with Gyro- Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4WMAAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_filkDb5QFAWP8