SILK PLA is amazing. it DOES have serious issues. the stuff is crazy strong but very very poorly sticks to itself (brittle layer adhesion) Print it hot 220c higher if the plastic behaves for you.

so thin parts? forget it. your not likely to get it off the bed without cracking it (use ultra base)

and even 3 perimeter 25% infill grid parts can "snap" if the nozzles catches an edge (broke my adalinda dragon a few times) and if you drop it it will break.

BUT the results are simply stunning.

Here are some links (gold is not in stock that I can find right now) these are direct non affiliate links. if you want to help me out goto todays3dprint.com and use any of the links their (and then these links) but you don't have to.

Silver (I have not tried this one but they all print the same)

https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Silver-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B06XSBFB17

Copper
https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B0761PMW3X

if this one was prime I would be ordering one as it looks VERY nice.

These from 3d Solutech are dirt cheap and some of my favorites! I have printed with all of them except the lavendar. I have it just have not used it yet in a print.

They call them "ultra pla"

Yellow

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KACX8

sample print Drogon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImOW0N1LNSA

Blue (my favorite)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175BLU

Sample Print Adalinda (75 hour print truly stunning)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZV0LTx-MlY&t

Green (out of stock right now)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175GRN-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KPNUK

Sample Print. Aria Dragon (another truly stunning model)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3g-5oyVsyRA

White

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175WHT-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KFRHO

Sample Print (Loubie Swan)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOavv-K-mYw

Red (really pink I have yet to find a true RED silk they all come out pink)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175HPK-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5LIL58

Sample Print (faceted Tree)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbuFM0UUo2c&t=100s

Here is the GOLD I used (sample print squirrel)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOavv-K-mYw&t=420s

but its not available right now (not sure if it is coming back or not)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRPYXP2

again. its a PAIN IN THE ASS filament but damn are the results incredible. worth the suffering :-)

again the links are "clear" direct links. if you want to help me visit one of the links to amazon in my videos first which will help me out. or use the direct links here if not.

in general search for "ultra" or "silk" PLA.

Poly Alchemy ALSO makes some disgustingly gorgeous SILK PLA's !! check out Night Shade and Night Sky in particular to be truly awestruck with the beauty of these filaments

Here are some higher resolution images of some of these filaments

Poly Alchemy Night Shade (stunning and dark)
https://i.imgur.com/tyMb4Xn.jpg Another
https://i.imgur.com/fphprtA.jpg

Poly Alchemy Night Sky (I love this one)
https://i.imgur.com/BWv59dv.jpg Another
https://i.imgur.com/9zz93el.jpg

Poly Alchemy Bubble Gum
https://i.imgur.com/6WyaMIY.jpg

Elixr is NOT CHEAP $30 for 750 grams or something like that. (its around $50 a kilo)

in the US Printedsolid.com sells it.

3D Solutech Ultra Green
https://i.imgur.com/5n7nQZx.jpg

As you might be able to tell I REALLY like these plastics :-)

credit to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:196038

You can't really appreciate the filament unless it's moving and I don't have a fancy turntable so I stole the one from my microwave lol

edit: the filament is https://smile.amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B0761PMW3X/

I've owned the Ender 3 for a few months now and have made a number of upgrades, both purchased and printed. Here's a list of what I have purchased and printed, sorted by importance/usefulness.

 

Purchased Parts:

1. EZABL - An automatic bed leveling solution that has worked really well for me. TH3D's firmware and documentation are top notch. Once I dialed it in I've had no issues with bed leveling or adhesion. Also note, TH3D is an American company and Tim, the owner, is even a mod of this sub!
   
   
2. Stepper Motor Dampers - A great way to quiet down the printer. My bedroom and office are connected without an intervening door and the dampers allow me to print overnight and still get get to sleep. Some users have had issues with stepper motors running hot with the dampers installed, but I've had no trouble at all, even after 16+ hr prints.
   
   
3. 5015 Blower Fan - For use with the Petsfang Duct, see below.
   
   
   
4. Assorted M3 Screws - If you're going to be making mods to your printer, you're eventually going to need different sized screws. Having various lengths on hand is super helpful when trying to mount a new part.
   
    
   
   Printed Parts:
   
   
5. Filament Guide Arm - This has helped a lot with keeping the filament feeding smooth and preventing under-extrusion issues. There is a more popular model on thingiverse, but I found this version to be stronger and more stable.
   
   
6. Petsfang Cooling Fan Duct - An extremely popular replacement for the part cooling duct and fan. This creates much more even cooling around the filament as its extruded, providing better bridging and better overall print quality. There is a version using a replacement 5015 blower fan, as I have used, and there's a version called the "Bullseye" that uses the stock fan. I chose to replace the stock fan because mine was starting to rattle.
   
   
7. Tool Holder - It sounds frivolous, but having the tools you need right at hand can be a big help in saving a print or performing trouble shooting. Definitely a must have.
   
   
8. LCD Rear Cover - Protects the circuit board behind the LCD, which is exposed from the factory. If you have children like I do, this is a must.
   
   
9. Cable Chain - Routs the various cables to their destinations in a clean way. Looks super cool. Not necessary, but definitely fun. Note, there is an X-axis cable chain setup available, but I found it made excessive noise and wasn't worth the trouble.
   
   
10. Fan Shroud - Protects the main board fan from bits of filament falling down into the casing.
    
    
11. Storage Drawer - A handy little drawer that slides in next to the LCD. I store things like alcohol swabs, razor blades, and other random tools in it.
    
     
    
    Future Upgrades:
    
    Spool Roller - One issue I've found is that the stock spool holder requires excessive force from the extruder to unwind filament. A replacement spool roller with bearings should reduce the friction significantly and produce more even extrusion.
    
    Metal Extruder - A common problem with the Ender 3 is that it fails to maintain proper tension on the extruder gear, which leads to failure to feed and poor extrusion. An all-metal extruder has been known to fix the issue.
    
    
    
    
    
    

You can buy the Elgoo Mars DLP printer on Amazon for $280. It’s build size is a little small but it’s an amazing printer. I’d say that it would be amazing for key caps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2ZHMRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fP2GDbRJJ1YVM

It looks to be the Hictop Aluminum, either the standard or "High Accuracy" model with auto leveling. Easiest way to tell is to check if there's a green sensor at the same height as the nozzle on the back plate with the pillow blocks for the bearings. They're notable for having a somewhat oblong build volume, with a bed that's a decent bit longer than the de facto standard 200mm on one end, providing a significant boost to the size of models it's capable of printing. They're not exactly known for being reliable, though, so if it was in a dumpster, it may very well be for a major fault. Of course it could also just be because someone got frustrated working with a printer, which isn't exactly an unknown phenomenon. Either way, it has a lot of parts compatible with most other printers, so if it doesn't work outright, it's still got a lot of useful components that can be put to good use elsewhere.

You didn't specify if you bought a kit or fully assembled, but ill assume it's a kit ;)


-

1. Follow the online instruction. Grab yourself a laptop/tablet since online has higher res pictures and comments per steps.
   
   

• Before each step see the comments under them to see if others have had trouble or give their alternative insight on an issue.
  
  
  

2. When assembling it, make sure you are doing this all on a flat, even surface. I did this on my granite kitchen counter top just so i wont run into alignment issues during calibration
   
   
3. Once you have it built, calibrated and working, it is customary (per say) to print a 3D Benchy, to get insight if the printer needs any fine tuning.
   
   
4. Must have recommendation
   
   

• OMG get these e3d silicone socks!. I've had dozen's of successful prints and these socks have helped so much from preventing THIS
  
  
• If you plan to use exotic filament (eg: wood, metal, carbon fiber), GET A HARDENED STEEL nozzle. The stock BRASS nozzle (0.4mm) is only good on non-abrasive filament (eg: regular PLA+ABS)
  
  
• 3D Print Removal Tool Spatula
  
  
• Restock on PEI Sheets!. These are what are recommended by the community as per cost effective and reliability and i think shipping is ~$9? So get more than one for the future. The ones on amazon are !@#$ overpriced!
  
  
  
  
• (optional, didnt like the power cord being bent) Left Angle Power Extension Cord.
  
  edit: I found this on thingiverse to make the PSU cable left angled
  
  

5. Start learning (if you haven't) to use Fusion 360 (most preferred), 123D, or TinkerCAD to print you whatever creativity you have.
   
   AVOID SKETCHUP!!.
   
   
6. Once you have a successful working, printing machine, start printing replacement parts for your printer! As Josef Prusa has stated, it's ok to print the machines parts out of PLA, If you wanna go with something more durable, go for PETG. eSun PETG Orange is what i use. BUT FIRST, make sure you adjust the Slic3r setting and a few test prints to print parts in PETG since it's finicky to work it.

You have to use a MOSFET for the bed and hotend. Takes the load of those cheap boards.

These are the ones I bought.

3D Printer Heat Bed Power Module SIMPZIA General Add-on Hot Bed Mosfet MOS Tube High Current Load Module for 3D Printer Hot Bed/Hot End(2 Pack)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XY5HBFX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EkS2Cb7EATCBK

I'm at 2,000 meters of filament printed with my Maker Select, very happy with it, some tips:

-The Maker Select V2.1 is simply a re-brand and upgrade of the Wanhao Duplicator i3. You'll see that name "i3" thrown around more than Maker select, so just be aware they are nearly synonymous


-First, definitely get the blower fan upgrade: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Buy two of them to have an extra in case of death


-Print out a blower fan housing for that fan: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471


The fan upgrade provides a huge improvement in print quality


-Get the all metal hot end from micro swiss: https://www.amazon.com/Hotend-Nozzle-WANHAO-FlashForge-Builder/dp/B01C3HEQZC


-THe "Z-Brace" mod reduces vibrations from the machines movements: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948


Some people swear by it, but the print time for those parts is roughly 20-24 hours total. In my 2,000+ meters of print, I haven't bothered because of the print time, but still bought the extra pieces in case I decide to do it.


-I've been mass printing tiles for d&d too, I looked at openforge and decided against that line, but went with TrueTiles instead. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUecWG1W-ss


Highly recommend truetiles over the other tile lines out there - the creator is a crafting genius (look him up on youtube - "wyloch"). They take less plastic, are more versatile, faster print time.


I found that Cura 15.04.x was much better than the recommended Cura 2.5.x. My setting for churning out tiles is something like 210C nozzle, 70 mm/s, 55C bed, 0.25 resolution, 0.8 shell, 10% fill, 2mm retraction, 20mm/s retract speed, 60mm/s travel speed, no brim/raft, no supports. You should print at resolution multiples of 0.04 (because of the way the filament feed gear works), ie. 0.08, 0.12, 0.16, 0.2, etc. I'm going to switch to 0.24 resolution for tiles. I do 0.12 for small figures. The printer can reliably print resolution 0.08 right out of the box (lower the speed to ~35 mm/s) but takes a long time to print.

-The black material on the heated bed is call Buildtak - be careful not to puncture it with the supplied putty knife. Get some blunt tools such as https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-you don't need any tape, glue stick, hair spray, for buildtak

-Be sure not to use any acetone or alcohol on Buildtak - both will ruin it.

-Apparently you don't really even need to heat the bed with buildtak, the stuff is super effect with first layer adhesion running at room temp. I ruined my original buildtak by using the supplied putty knife to remove a print that was so super stuck to the bed because I kept it heated. Doesn't hurt to keep it heated though, but be aware heat + buildtak = much adhesion

-That slight lip on the butterfly's bottom layer is due to the settings of first layers being laid down slightly thicker than the others. Sometimes called "elephant's foot" it can also be caused by the nozzle being too close to the bed, which will smush those initial layers more than needed. Closer nozzle = more smushed first layer = better adhesion, but with buildtak you can get away with keeping the nozzle further away, and adjusting your cura settings for a first layer thickness equal to the rest of the print

Looks identical to a Hictop acrylic. 200x270mm build plate.

Edit: earlier version of this model.

I'm sure you're covering all bases, but I'd like to recommend this Non-Affiliated Link carbon fiber impregnated poly-carbonate filament.

I print it very hot with very minimal cooling and a hot bed. When it fuses, it's almost impossible to damage significantly with a hammer.

Mika3D Silk PLA Bundle

This is what I believe OP has but I could be wrong. I recently ordered it and it prints great.

On a budget, there are three great choices for Mini Printing:

Anycubic Photon (not Photon S)

Elegoo Mars

Epax X1

Angus did say in his video on the Elegoo Mars that they are going to release a new version in the next few weeks. So, the current one may go even lower in price.

Check the forms here for info on each printer.

ETA: These are all DLP printers and the screens will need to be replaced every so often. Also, if you want the best quality minis, you would have to go to a true SLA. But there are no budget true SLA printers. They start with the Peopoly Moai at about $1,300.

DLP vs SLA

Get some essential tools: those wire cutty clipper things (for cutting support structures off your prints) and a painter's scalpel for peeling prints off the heatbed.

Consider getting the upgrade kit for the ender 3 pro sometime; the flexible removable heatbed is a HUGE convenience for getting prints off and cleaning the heatbed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072WS3M9H

This angle bend is EXTREMELY helpful. You don't have to get this specific product, but trust me that you want a tool like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A81FXMK

The scalpel I bought isn't for sale anymore but this one looks good enough.

For assembly, follow the videos, not the written instructions (if you have them).

As far as mods, at the very least get mosfets like this and also search in this sub for ways people improved their print quality. I know for a fact others will recommend more mods.

Just a heads up, you picked a controversial printer. I have had luck with mine, but it's not perfect and many people are going to let you know that. Be safe, and happy printing!

Replace the part. Then print a filament guide off thingiverse for your model printer.
Official Creality 3D All Metal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J44QW8B
I've seen some people that have printed a replacement, but the metal one will last longer.

There wasn't too many that affect the quality of the print, but here's the mods I currently have:
___

BL Touch

Borosilicate Glass

Extruder Filament Guide (for TPU)

TPU Feet

Fan Cover

There was a resin printer reviewed on YouTube that’s like 250 it got good remarks from them and others online strongly debating my self. The resin is like 40 a bottle.

ELEGOO Mars UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer with 3.5'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.72"(L) x 2.68"(W) x 6.1"(H) Printing Size Black Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2ZHMRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wjKXDbCCQKVYT

Amazon.

I'd recommend the RAMPS 1.4 board as there is already a guide to installing it on the Mini and a BLTouch mechanical probe sensor that is also on Amazon.

Also note you need someway to mount your probe the hot end so since no one has done it yet with Mini (publicly anyways), you'd probably have to design your own mount and print it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0111ZSS2O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NEGTXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Got it as part of a metallic 3 pack (gold, silver & copper) on Amazon.

Hot end

extruder

controll board

stepper drivers

stepper motors

I used the repetier firmware configuration tool to get my firmware image.

If you choose to use a stepper, I would recommend the Nema 17. This is great for smaller-scale projects like a small 3-D printer, fair amount of torque but low speeds. If you main concern is controlling these motors to a precise angle but you aren't too concerned with high speed, this would be a good choice. All the specs are given in that link. A servo is better used in an application where you just want it to be either ON or OFF. If this is a mobile robot, like a little car or crawler, I would go with the servo, here is my recommended product, cheap and strong. Keep in mind that you will also need a driver to run either of these motors. Search Arduino motor sheild/hat/driver for that.

The printer I went with was a kit from amazon - learning curve exists, but a fun hobby. http://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Leveling-Accuracy-Self-assembly-Printing/dp/B015IHMOSK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465218885&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=HICTOP+3d+printer&psc=1

Another option would be 3rd party printer service (shapeways) or as some others have suggested, check libraries and maker spaces.

Its a great hobby!

MG Chemical sells a kilo for 26.46 https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Printer-Filament-1-75mm/dp/B018MG4SK6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474957071&sr=8-3&keywords=wood%2Bfilament&th=1

Not sure how good it actually is but the reviews seem positive.

I use MG Chemicals, and really like it.

Just printed this wood PLA succulent pot earlier today!

Edit: In no way has this damaged my printer. In fact, some of my best quality prints are using this filament.

Edit 2: Just to be clear, it was using this filament

The material is MG Chemical's Wood filament. The files are on Thingiverse here

This stuff? Pretty sure it will mess with your temperatures without, not sure how much, and you may be able to tune your PID to compensate.

You can try insulating your heater block. There's cotton insulation that you then wrap with kapton tape. Which is how my maker select came. Or you can get silicone socks, which will depend on your hotend. These come with new e3dv6s and work well too

So far working with the Anet A8 has been an extreme lesson in patience. It's honestly a bad printer but if you're willing to spend time and a little money, you can make it decent. First up should be fire safety. Immediately upgrade to the latest version of Marlin and install a mosfet for at least the bed, if not both the bed and hot end.

I would also recommend ordering new bearings before assembling the printer. The ones it comes with are pure garbage and for $10 it's an easy purchase. Another thing that might be worth investing in immediately is better belts.

After it's assembled and you can print well enough print an X belt tensioner and a Y belt tensioner. After that it might not hurt to print some braces for the weak acrylic frame. If you're hardcore about the frame check out the Anet AM8 upgrade which replaces the acrylic one with metal for about $60.

Good luck!

Cheaper than a new house. If you are even remotely considering doing long prints, you gotta get it.

This double pack was only $16 and it comes with instructions.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5HBFX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It includes the wires, but I think they're a bit short so I'm buying longer ones for the power supply.



I just printed this holder for it. Look through the files and you'll find the double-version.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2018906



Looking at the instructions, this looks like a trivial change. The 'hardest' part is crimping the connectors to the wires. Other than that, you're just moving some connections from the motherboard to the MOSFET.

I haven't actually done the upgrade myself. I was hoping to last night, but I had to work a double shift. I figure it will take an hour or two, with half that time looking for my wire crimpers and cleaning up the holder I printed.

Thx for the suggestion. I haven't had time to experiment with many specialty filaments in the last couple years but want to use the strongest I can. Got a brass nozzle atm on a rep2 no hbp. Other constraints: poor humidity control (workshop is the front of our skoolie) & lack of good ventilation. Prefer filaments that can do 230-240C
This looks OK aside from the moisture retention:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DS3986/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TS0BDbE1553VW
lmk if you have a better option. Really like that petg can be recycled

This PC CF composite

PEI, Polyethylenimine, is a type of plastic and you can buy it in various forms (including sheets). It's handy because it's nice and sticky to plastics like PLA when it's heated but releases well when it's at room temperature (a few taps along the edge of the base of the print releases most things). The only issue I've had with it is that TPU sticks a bit too well, but TPU's really best printed on a pure glass bed anyways.

I've got a sheet of PEI adhered to a glass sheet and clipped to my print bed. It works great.

Raft, Skirt, Brim.

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/rafts-skirts-and-brims/

​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4y8TCj2RuM

​

And this or Glass gives a shiny, reflective bottom.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XJLWL6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I recommend a PEI sheet on top of the glass. I get really nice first layers using it. This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XJLWL6

Perhaps this with a bit of dry brushed paint for tinting?

https://amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Materia/dp/B0761PMW3X

I'm a huge fan of the silk copper/bronze filaments. Silk gold is pretty good too but when people look at prints with those silk copper or bronze they more often ask if they're actual metal.

https://www.amazon.com/Bronze-Filament-Printer-Printing-Material/dp/B07FCC3TJG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537377823&sr=8-3&keywords=silk+bronze+filament

https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0761PMW3X&pd_rd_r=c5eff776-bc30-11e8-85dd-873fcc9bd247&pd_rd_w=mfPAa&pd_rd_wg=SPizH&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=FY9NVDFGYTQ7G7B53M61&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=FY9NVDFGYTQ7G7B53M61

CC3D has amazing copper and gold (don’t bother with the silver). Silk Copper PLA 3D Printer Filament 1.75 mm 1KG 2.2LBS Spool 3D Printing Material CC3D Shine Silky Shiny Metallic Metal Red Purple Copper PLA Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eRrBDbSCBP7H5

One of the biggest upgrades I have to recommend is flashing new firmware. The default firmware doesn't support thermal runaway protection and it's fairly straightforward to upgrade. Here's a video guide for the process.

Second is to upgrade the thermistor. It's not necessary, but the one I have can survive up to temperatures as high as 600C and is easy to remove during cleaning.

The third upgrade is the most tedious and not necessary, but it's what I did after my first heated bed connectors melted to the Melzi board. I upgraded all of the wiring with 12+14 gauge copper wire. It might be an over kill, but it keeps me sane.

What you absolutely MUSTTTTTTT!!!! order? Nothing. The printer works as is. But if you want to do yourself a favour, here's a list of what I consider essentials:


- New springs, both bed and extruder. I don't have a link for an extruder one as I upgraded my entire extruder drive frame and that came with a better spring

- A new removable bed. Creality glass bed or glass with a PEI sheet is my bed of choice

- Thermal pad to avoid the annoying bed clamps. Cut squares out of it, lay them in a checkered pattern alternating between thermal pad and nothing and place your bed on top. They will hold the bed in place and help with heating

- Stepper dampers if your printer is anywhere near where you spend your time, it sounds like a bloody jackhammer right out of the box

- New tube fittings, the stock ones are terrible and will give out in a matter of weeks at best. They also barely hold onto the tube

There are a ton of other great upgrades, but I think a good idea is to get a feel for it yourself.

What you can do, however, is check out some printable upgrades. I have this thread where people contributed with their choice of printable upgrades. It's a great list you can refer to later. Essentials on that are the fan guard and LCD back cover simply because the Ender 3 as is has the fan and back of the LCD exposed and that makes it crazy vulnerable to dust and gook damage

You have some underextrusion. The lines you're seeing are caused by too much tension on the extruder gear. It cannot get enough material to the hotend.

Mine was the idler arm breaking under the pressure. Buy the metal one from Amazon or wherever. Then print the filament roller guide. And lastly, print a better holder/roller for your spool.

Build plate is tearing up a little when you remove the print.

I suggest purchasing a glass replacement to go over the top of your build plate. Note: You'll have to calibrate your Z-axis a little unless if you get super lucky and the glass plate is exactly the same thickness as your current plate. Amazon has one for $20

If I am understanding correctly, the prints stick everywhere else except the middle. This could be from the heated bed not being completely flat, from either a manufacturer defect, heating the bed can cause it to flex slightly, and also the act of leveling with 4 points will cause stress to the bed and cause it to not be flat.

If you want to resolve the issue there are a few thing you can do. First I recommend getting a glass bed of some kind. I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2/146-3360479-3249561?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07JKGNB6W&pd_rd_r=1be203f4-8159-11e9-8887-9b31b6cb4217&pd_rd_w=QkaU5&pd_rd_wg=lhVMV&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=MJKHHJRB1R0V6D2Q2C61&psc=1&refRID=MJKHHJRB1R0V6D2Q2C61

with this PEI sheet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Second you can do a bed conversion from 4 corners to 3-point leveling. Check this guide by Makeitmakeitmakeit for more info: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3415460

you will need this, made by rrwrex, if you do the conversion: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3193722

​

This is a make of my conversion which I have done on 2 Ender 3s and no longer have to level unless I mess with the bed: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:636770

​

Also check this guide out here tons of good info: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3574369

Yes my friend

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3" x 9.3") with Preapplied Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive for Creality Ender 3 or CR 20 | Made in The USA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gbsPDbPNKDNM9

Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Bed 235x235x3.7mm for Ender 3 DC-01 Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T-sPDbX4FQ8EG

i have an ender 3 pro and after saying no to any upgrades I finally started to see what everyone is talking about 6 months down the road. here is a list of things that you will see a lot of you tubers tell you to replace. the YouTube channel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors is a great resource for everything about the ender 3.

1. new boden tube and couplings that are alot better to use then stock https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DC594D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. THIS IS A MUST HAVE! a new metal extruder (eliminates a crap ton of extrusion issues) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Glass bed (best bed adhesion with 0 cleanup) this is optional but does solve a ton of issues down the road https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. extra nozzles in a variety of sizes (not needed but nice to play with different sizes and to clear any clogs fast you can just replace the nozzle....i run .2, .4, and .8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JPZ7TNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   the YouTube Chanel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a step by step build guide for your ender 3 ( i used it for mine) he will recommend most of this list as well. He also has other videos on the slicer settings you will use for Cura. for D&D models you can use this google doc list https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1PemvBH7LC-hm4KoeA8OXVu5_k963Vpmw7kOEA_1tzWs/edit?pli=1#gid=0

It is PLA from Amazon.
Copper/Gold/Silver PLA

Yup just got it, so far so good! Easy to work with!

Yeah, when it is not in stock, it wont show on searches. Here you go. Also, there is an elegoo mars facebook group. People will post when they are in stock.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2ZHMRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K1knDbM62JQ0F

ELEGOO Mars UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer with 3.5'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.72"(L) x 2.68"(W) x 6.1"(H) Printing Size Black Version https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07K2ZHMRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JXIsDbHTJQRTJ

Here's the list of stuff I got.

​

📷
MelodySusie 36W UV Nail Lamp Dryer, Professional UV Gel Nail Polish Curing Light with 3 Timer Setting, Sliding Tray for Manicure Pedicure Gel Polish, UV Resin, Acrylic, Polygel, White
Sold by: MelodySusie Direct
$26.59
Buy it again
📷
SC Products 4" Rotating Display Stand, Solar Powered, Chrome Finish, by Sunrise Crystal
Sold by: Sunrise Crystal
$12.99
Buy it again
📷
ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Rapid Resin LCD UV-Curing Resin 405nm Standard Photopolymer Resin for LCD 3D Printing 1000Gram Grey
Sold by: ELEGOO
$39.99
Buy it again
📷
ELEGOO Mars UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer with 3.5'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.72"(L) x 2.68"(W) x 6.1"(H) Printing Size Black Version
Sold by: ELEGOO
$279.99
Buy it again

Official Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer with Magnetic Build Surface Plate and UL Certified Power Supply Metal DIY Printers 220x220x250MM

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07K3SZBHJ

had official in the description? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

sold by ' Creality 3d direct'

the sidebar may have better info.

Did you just order the E3D HotEnd Full Kit as seen here on amazon or did you order other stuff too?

https://www.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Kit/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487899807&sr=8-1&keywords=e3d+v6

I'm sure that others will jump in here too, but my research has shown the MicroSwiss ALL METAL hotend tends to have many more problems than the E3D all metal hotend.


The MicroSwiss has the advantage of being a plug & play direct drop in, while the E3D you have to print a mounting plate.


That said, the E3D is a superior design (IMHO) with tens of thousands in use on many different 3D printer brands.


The MicroSwiss all metal seems to have problems with clogging, and some users have actually gone back to the stock hotend.


The E3D also allows upgrading to the Volcano version which many think is the cat's meow for the CR-10 machines because of their big build area.


The Volcano uses a 40 watt heater and a long nozzle to give a longer heat up time for hotter filaments being extruded at high speed (the plastic is in the melt zone longer, gets more time to melt).


The Volcano also opens the door to much bigger nozzles like .8; 1.0; and even a 1.2 which allows extruding much more plastic cutting big print times dramatically and also gives much greater parts strength.


I plan on getting an E3D GENUINE hotend. I have an E3D clone on my Monoprice Select v2.1 and it was a LOT of trouble to get it running right, sometimes it pays to not cheap out! LOL!


Here's the E3D page, as well as two sources:


E3D Home: https://e3d-online.com/v6


Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Approximately/dp/B00NAK9JFO


Filastruder: https://www.filastruder.com/products/all-metal-e3d-v6-hotend

One nice thing on Filastruder is that you can customize the kit you buy .

Now I prepare myself for the slings and arrows from happy MicroSwiss people. :-)

PuterPro

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

hot end v6

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

The motor is a Nema 17 with 63.7 oz-in of hold torque.
The drive controller doesn't seem like it has the ability to do micro stepping which I didn't see as a problem because the resolution of it is more then i really need already.
Links to both that i got from amazon below.

The application is raising a skylight, which involves the motor turning a hook which grabs the loop to open the skylight.

As far as I can tell it doesn't have to do with resonance but whenever its not actually moving a step its losing all current. This could be my problem as the drive started to over heat when it was not moving. So at the end of the move I disable the driver because the window doesn't need to be held open.

Motor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQI7W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Driver:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014KMHSW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

you're quite welcome!
The motors I bought were these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQI7W but any nema17 sized steppers that have at least 64OzIn(45Ncm) of torque will do.
the advantages of the 32bit controllers are pretty numerous, but here's the pros and cons as I see them.

Pros: faster movement- they can generate movement commands much faster than the 8 bit ones. More powerful -they can calculate the geometries easier, leaving capacity available for other things. on the smoothieboard, for example, it can be hooked up to your home internet, and serve a local webpage, thus running stand-alone. Additionally the 32bit controllers don't need to be flashed with new firmware to change settings. they have a config file on the sd card that you can update, or for the more common settings, via several g-code commands. The 32 bit controllers aren't as common, so the information available isn't splintered or contradictory, like it can be for the 8 bit controllers. the guys on smoothieboard's IRC channel are very helpful, although a bit terse.

Cons: Some of the features of the 8 bit processor's firmwares that I like are not implemented, firmware that prevents you from accidentally telling your printer to move in a fashion that it can't (out of bounds movement) and an over-temperature cut-out (marlin firmware will cut every thing if the hot end is measured to exceed a certain temperature. the 32 bit controllers aren't as common, so there aren't as many sources of info or help available, however see the pro about info

the build volume if you use the arm length recommended is something like 120mm diameter by 260mm tall. I suggest, if you get their kossel, to make your carbon-fiber tubes 250mm long instead of the suggested 180mm. this gives you total arm lengths of about 290, which results in a build volume of about 210mm by 200mm.

It is the Hictop 3DP12, the Amazon price is a little higher now.
https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Leveling-Self-assembly-Size-Filament-included/dp/B015IHMOSK/ref=sr_1_2/168-6285419-8329745?ie=UTF8&qid=1479876595&sr=8-2&keywords=hictop+auto+level

I noticed that Amazon reviews sometimes mix different models together so they do not always reflect the current model.

Haha! yea so I printed this with a raft after messing around with Cura a bit just to see how it would print. I plan on printing another without a raft.

Yea sorry about that I goofed on submitting:

Printer: Hictop Prusa I3 DIY Kit

I got mine from Amazon, only because the Hatchbox one was out of stock for a week and I'm impatient.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MG4SK6

Comments are comparing it to Hatchbox, but I have no idea how well it prints because I'm dumb and have a .4 mm nozzle and didn't realize a .5 mm or higher is recommended.

• Heat gun for melting off any stringing post print
  
• Small spatulas for those hard to remove prints
  
• These sanding tools on Thingiverse for sanding rough surfaces and cleaning up support contact areas

Also, if you're using a standard putty knife on the bed: dont. Them edges be too sharp for the PEI to handle. I use something like this which saved my PEI from certain death a few times.

Seconding ChituBox, it's a lot better at supports and just overall usability.

Also, I've had zero issue removing prints from the plate by using a thin metal scraper. The one I've been using is here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK

The shorter one is perfect for getting under prints with a little bit of force.

I was in the same position around three months ago.... Previous to purchasing my first 3d printer, I was exposed to the world of 3D printing through my school's 3D printing lab. Due to my exposure to higher end printers ($3,500 +), previous to buying my own cheapish 3D printer, I was able to have a sense as to what a good, ok, and bad print looks and feels like. After doing some reserch on some higher and lower end 3d printer kits, I quickly learned that when it comes to purchasing a 3D printer, you can only buy a printer with 2 out of these three qualities: economical, large build volume, high quality. I decided that I wanted a printer with a largish 3d printing volume that was on the economical side (less than $450). When I made this decision I understood that I since I was getting an economical 3D printer with a largish build plate I was sacrificing not having a quality 3D printer.
I ended up purchasing a Prusa clone; the "Hictop Prusa i3" to be exact. Price: $319. https://www.amazon.com/Arrival-HICTOP-Filament-Self-assembly-Printing/dp/B01ERDWSFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483904107&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=hictop+prusa+i3&psc=1

After buying the printer, I told myself that worst case scenario I'd easily be able to get rid of it (and make a small profit) by selling it on "Craigslist" or "Let Go" for a slightly higher price than what I bought it for since I would've sold the printer pre-assembled. (The assembly process is actually not that hard at all... Took me less than 5 hours)
After the printer kit arrived, I spent a few hours a day over a weekend building it. After two days, and some youtube help, the printer was up and running near flawlessly. To my surprise, I was getting incredible prints on both PLA and ABS(the printer has a hot bed). After about a week of printing and tuning the printer (which is not hard at all), I was getting better prints than what my school's top printer was producing. All in all, I am now extremely satisfied with my purchase. I understand that I don't have the best 3D printer on the market, but I know that I have a printer that is worth a lot more than what I paid for it. (With some DIY upgrades like a printing enclosure you can step up the build quality even more.)
Looking back, the only thing I would have maybe done differently would have been spending like $30 more and buying the aluminum version. I doubt that the quality would be any better than the acrylic version I have, but it would've been easier and less scary to build/ carry around. (the acrylic frame can break if you way over tighten a part during the assembly process). Also, if you end up buying this printer, or another clone like it, I would strongly suggest buying it off a trusted website like Amazon. The seller of my printer was extremely responsive and sent me a few parts I thought were slightly damaged (but still totally still usable).

You can print without it. It's not too expensive to replace and it helps keep the temperature stable and use less power(leaving more for the bed heater). You'll probably want some polyimide/kapton tape too.

Right now I'm just using some Kapton tape:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KB6AAY?psc=1

Later I'll add a silicone sock if I can find one, or maybe just some ceramic cotton:
https://www.amazon.com/WAHHING-heating-cotton-printer-insulation/dp/B01LAYCRAA

10 Pack for $7.00

You took apart the hot end. I am assuming to remove to the nozzle for cleaning? There are two threaded holes in that picture. The larger one for the nozzle, and the smaller one has an L shaped bracket used to hold the thermistor in place. The thermistor goes into the unthreaded hole NEXT to the threaded hole. The thermistor wires look bent in that photo because the L shaped bracket squashes them.

Here's two links you will need to replace the insulation material.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVBLOQ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

reinstall the nozzle, tightly but not too tight. re-install the thermistor and L bracket. Then wrap everything with the insulation and use the 1/4" kapton tape to hold in insulation in place.

Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.

I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.

These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.

Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.

One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.

The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.

The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.

That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.

Good luck!

for ABS i like to enclosure the Printer, so i can keep the heat in. Also i suggest: Do upgrade to Mosfet Modules if you printing ABS a lot, it will prevent the board of casing fire. The connecters to the board are known to start fires. If you want a quick solution, but some brass sleeves over the wires.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/kNMAAOSwhfdaavKJ/s-l300.jpg

Never ever try to solder them together, solder joints weakens the thing and after some movement it brake loose, casing desaster. Also put some strainreliefs on both ends of the cable. Don't try to drill holes in the acrylic, as it most likley shatters the frame, instead i always glued stuff to it.

​

https://www.3ders.org/articles/20150726-new-ikea-hack-lets-you-create-a-3d-printer-enclosure-for-cheap.html

It's a cheap IKEA tabel to put over. I wanted to stack two of them, but the problem was the mass of the construction (or the lack of it), as it wobbels a lot i would only advice to cover it on top of a tabel...

​

​

here are the files you asked for:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NjCn8OF8ddrGB06XAqb-PJJHnOPvXwVJ

​

they are a bit crude tho, i did not bother to add a mounts to the chassie, i just glued it on as i mentioned, drilling into it may case cracks. Also the slots for the sd card etc. could be worked out a bit finer and more accurate. but it will hold down with short m3 screws.

​

don't forget to connect all GND (so one screw from each board) to GND of the powersupply. So in case of a short circut the fuse can blow before anything can catch fire. Even more so if you upgrade to MOSFET.

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1539565222&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=3d+printer+mosfet&psc=1

​

Cheers and happy printing

Roger


​

I haven't printed with that filament but I have used this stuff https://www.amazon.com/PRILINE-Printer-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B074DS3986/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543122796&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=carbon+fiber+pc+filament&dpPl=1&dpID=51oQYwD0BYL&ref=plSrch and it printed fine in a enclosed chamber. It's stronger then my abs prints and it does require a hardened nozzle for sure

That mostly depends on your budget. 3DXTech's CF nylon and PC are good but relatively expensive, and NylonX from MatterHackers is cheaper and also apparently good. Priline seems fine, but it looks heavily blended.

I currently only print standard PC and PEEK and have never used any of the filaments I linked, but to my knowledge they're quality (especially the first two brands) and are generally reviewed well.

PC is similar to or worse than ABS, at least in my experience. It stunk more unless I turned temps down enough to where layer bonding was awful, in which case there was barely any odor. So you might be able to print lower-temp blends without it being too bad, though you're back to dealing with ABS in most of them. The fumes also uniquely gave me a headache. I added recirculating filtration to my enclosure after a few prints and no longer smell anything at all, but it was terrible previously. Nylon emits a lot of (relatively harmless) VOCs as well as a large amount of UFPs, but as far as I'm aware, the fumes aren't as irritating as from ABS.

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 8" x 8" 1 mm 3D Printer Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kgyXAbNEW8B6H

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 8" x 8" (203mm x 203mm) 1mm Thick 3D Printer Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive, Made in The USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T2H9Bb7E9V5RS

I have the same printer you do. I bought that, placed it over the black mat that is installed, secured it with metal binder clips, leveled my bed, built an enclosure out of foam board and print with ABS. Wipe it down between prints with alcohol. No adhesion issues at all. Let your print cool 30 minutes and they pop right off.

Also, tighten your bolts around the rods, they are accessed from the bottom of the motors. Mine were loose when shipped. https://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/

The first thing I did when I got mine was replace the stock extruder fan with a radial fan + a diiicooler link

I also printed a z-axis stabilizer

Upgrading the to an all metal hot end is also a solid choice

Getting a pei sheet and a piece of borosilicate glass for your build plate will help too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf this isn't an affiliate link or anything, just copy and pasted from the amazon app. I had to cut the sheet down a bit. It scores and breaks pretty nicely. Keep in mind it's about 1mm thick though.

Silk Copper 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D PLA Printing Material Silky Like Shiny Metal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ihvaCbHW79QQB

Filament used: Silk Copper PLA, Tool temp: 197, Bed: 60

Printer: Ender 3, 30% cubic infill, 2mm walls

It was 35 on Amazon 40 with the 1 M extension cable.

Here's a link

I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.

First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.

Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.

Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax

Parts already purchased/ bought with printer

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax

Future planned upgrades

• Bl Touch (Note: if you have a Pi you don't need a separate ISP to flash a bootloader to the stock Melzi control board)
  
  
• Extruder | Zesty Nimble, Bondtech BMG, or SeeMeCNC EZR
  
  
• Cooling Duct | Either Smooth Fang or Hero Me Gen 3 in PETG/ABS
  
  
• Direct Drive | Kit or Printed (this, this, or this)
  
  
• Electronics relocation enclosure and wiring (need to research this more)
  
  
• Vibration Isolation Feet with Yellow Dot Squash Balls
  
  
• Linear rails (maybe)

No, this is the exact one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hello there. This is a rebrand of the Wanhao i3 Plus, so if you need some help, googling information about that printer, or its popular rebrand, the Monoprice Maker Select Plus, may give some answers. I have the MPMS+, so I may be able to help you out. Your old heater block had two holes because it is able to take two different sized thermistor screws. Your new heater block can only take one. It looks like an M3 screw hole maybe? It is hard to tell. But yes, you should be able to put your thermistor cable into the hole with the right screw just fine. As for where to put the heater cartridge plugs in, your daughter board should look like this, right? You would plug it into the one labeled heater. Also, I upgraded my thermistor to a screw based thermistor, which I would recommend. I think it would be compatible with the block you have there if you're interested.

I've done that and it's seated. This is the replacement I put in. [Gulfcoast Robotics] Thermistor Upgrade for Maker Select Plus and Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus 3D Printers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3ZYBTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fTvLBb3Z93P59

+1... This is a WIN

1. Small mistakes make great lessons.
   
2. Still usable to print 75% as wide as the print bed, at least
   
3. Instant excuse to drop $30 on a glass bed. I got this one: Gulfcoast-Robotics-Borosilicate-Creality-Ender3- 4mm thick

Just saw your inquiry about the bed: I'm using this one [Gulfcoast Robotics] 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got this one and it is working out great!

So far I have printed PLA and PETG.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Glass Bed

Honestly I would suggest getting the upgraded motors instead of the dampeners. They will be much quieter and give you better performance. For the bed I got this:
[Gulfcoast Robotics] 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Borosilicate Glass Bed is absolutely worth it. Even when you wait for your bed to cool after printing (you should) you'll struggle removing parts with Ender 3 print surface. With that borosilicate glass, you'll get a perfectly flat surface that will release parts easily after cooling.

The line down the left hand side is now defaulted in the Cura 3.5.x printer profile. You can modify the start and end gcode under Settings > Printer > Manage Printer. The cura folks adapted it from another person who posted it on Youtube and then modified it to improve it a bit. For instance it now starts both bed and the element at the same time.

Finally, Cura 3.5.1, while supposedly fixing the Ender 3 Printer Profile, is still pretty shakey. It doesn't seem to render good gcode. I've switched back to 3.4.1... more of a PSA than resposne to your question.

Aside from the aforementioned glass plate, there are several easy and useful mods. There's many threads going over this actually. Search around.

Get this and make some mods using the bearings. I made the Filament Guide along with a snap-in filament guide for closer to the spool. Both highly recommended.
Also using the bearings, I made a Spool Holder. Not crucial, but might save wear on extruder mechanism.

Get This or something like it and at least install the couplers instead of stock ones. I haven't replaced the tube itself yet. It requires fairly precise cutting but you can get PTFE tube cutting guides and cutters printed from thingiverse.

Get This and install it before glass bed or anything else, except for maybe a bed handle (which you can print from thingiverse. Handle isn't crucial but will help.

I haven't yet but will get:

• a better extruder (all metal or a bmg clone)
  
• a better hot-end (for printing of other stuff, like nylon if I want)
  
  Buy Spare Nozzles, including a hardened steel one if you want to do any amount of printing with wood-grain, metal or glow-in-the-dark material.

Those couplers are trash and so is the PTFE tube they sent. They may work for a while but you'll want to swap them sooner rather than later. Here's a list of upgrades you'll probably want to do. You'll also want to look up a tutorial on how to upgrade your firmware so you can activate safety features (thermal runaway protection specifically). This also doesn't include a BLTouch or EZABL (auto bed levelers) as I have yet to make a choice personally.

Couplers and Tube:
SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Metal Extruder: ( original plastic one will wear out or break)
Ender 3 Creality 3D Upgrade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSS8FRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Bed Springs: (more than needed but oh well)
SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9PBML5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Glass Bed: (goes on top of print bed which is usually warped, printing on an uneven surface not so bueno)
Creality Upgraded 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2LZF1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Raspberry Pi 3B+ for OctoPrint: (still need microsd card for it I believe)
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Stepper Motor Dampers: (silences the motors, no more sounding like dial up internet lol will need to print mounts from thingiverse)
Upgraded NEMA 17 Stepper Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNT72SF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat Sinks For Stepper Motors: (once stepper motors have dampers and aren't attached to the metal frame, they can get a little hot)
40mmx40mmx10mm Black Radiator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWVGGGK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hot end silicone sleeve: (may not need, mine came with one instead of the old insulation)
Creality Original 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNXJ39T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Extra Filament: (ender 3 only comes with a small sample "spool", this is just a brand I use and have had decent results with. The metallic silver hue shows off detail well)
3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7YUIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I bought

i ended up buying this glass bed. Overall its pretty good. Just use purple glue stick you can buy anywhere and youll be fine. albeit for me i need to call in NASA engineers to get mine off as well. :/

​

https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3C42WXXA97BWB&keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1569282569&sprefix=ender+3+glas+bed%2Caps%2C219&sr=8-5

This is the one I went with, it's been pretty great so far except the one unfortunate incident with this particular print.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shiny Silk Gold Silver Copper PLA Filament Bundle, 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Each Spool 0.5kg, 3 Spools Pack, with One 3D Printer Remove Tool MIKA3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMRNHVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LJX5CbJC0ATAA

I've had good results with MIKA3D. They sell it in 3 packs of silver/copper/gold 0.5kg spools so you can try all three. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMRNHVS

Yeah. If you look at the comment review by Scott Presbrey here https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Photocuring-Printer-Off-line-Printing/dp/B07K2ZHMRF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=resin+printer&qid=1564672532&s=gateway&sr=8-3#customerReviews

he says:

" I had to return first 2 units. First one had an issue where the rising and lowering metal plate would not detach from FEP during first several layers. SOLUTION: add a piece of painters tape to corner of LCD screen, under FEP film, but do not cover active pixel area! (Issue is a vacuum is created that cannot detach)...."

Here you go! ELEGOO Mars UV Photocuring LCD 3D... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2ZHMRF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Seems the official Creality3d is the same price. Why risk it?

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Removable-220x220x250MM/dp/B07K3SZBHJ/

At those prices, I would go with the Tiny Machines version.

https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/products/ender-3-pro-3d-printer

Or if you really want to purchase from Amazon:

Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro Upgraded 3D Printer with Removable Magnetic Bed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K3SZBHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LAl.BbXNCPHAV

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07K3SZBHJ/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=A26BI19QRFB6PB&psc=1

Also of note, it says "save 51.80 as a Prime Member", so you likely have to have Prime for it

You are correct. The stock Ender 3 does not. But the stock Ender 3 also doesn't come with an all metal hotend or any of the other mods that I've installed.

For example:

E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal - Direct, 12v - Approximately 120mm PTFE (ASSEMBLY REQUIRED) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KiiqDb0BZFYEK

Or:

https://e3d-online.com/thermal-compound-paste

My all metal hotend kit came with something identical in the package. If it's not supposed to be used for the hotend, why would they include it? /Whereabouts were they thinking I was going to apply it?

Try this ones

​

https://www.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Approximately/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2RY68WD3KQDGT&keywords=e3d+v6+hotend&qid=1562208147&s=gateway&sprefix=E3D+%2Caps%2C275&sr=8-3 *original*

​

Cheap version

​

https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Extruder-Printer-Filament/dp/B07B4FHN72/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2RY68WD3KQDGT&keywords=e3d+v6+hotend&qid=1562208147&s=gateway&sprefix=E3D+%2Caps%2C275&sr=8-7

> E3d
you mean something like this right????

https://www.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Approximately/dp/B00NAK9JFO

Wow.. this is easily the longest reply I have ever gotten. I have replied much longer before but yeah.. Not complaining at all thanks for taking the time to write it. I will reply as I read through.

Wiring for me I have never been all that hesitant to. I have been hit with 120 a few times and it's mainly a burn for me. The one that really surprised me though was taking apart a blender and well I had shorts on and you can touch one wire and be fine just not both unless you and the wiring are grounded of course. Anyway I was on my bed and one wire was touching my leg and the other I grabbed with my hand... So that was an interesting experience.

I am the type that will take one of those cigarette lighters that electric spark? take off the guard, put your thumb over it and go... clicky clicky...

As for the JST bit I appreciate the links. I am familiar with them and how to do that I just never have. I would need a reason to get them, maybe this is it? But the wago or other lever type connectors seem to be easier and or cheaper. I will figure it out when it gets here.

> personally I mangled the connector housings and pins on my stepper cables trying to swap pins over.

Yeah I think you need the pin remover. I was watching a few youtube videos about it, and well here I believe is the one I watched. Relevant portion is at the 7:05 mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhU0D7fDR98 It's called an extraction tool, or extractor. There are quite a few different ones for different applications. If I got into solderless pin connections that's one of the things I would buy.

So for me going that kind of connector route would be about 10 or so for the extractor, 20 for the crimper, maybe 10 or so for the connectors. But let's say it was just 30 or so total. Ok... or I could go with the wago lever connectors for 15 and could splice 50 sets of wires that could be undone with a flick of a lever. It's not as nice looking as a connector but it's still doable. Also knowing me, I'd still throw some heat shrink tubing onto the crimped pins. But I already have that and a heat gun.

>Building a cat proof mdf enclosure for the printer so I can take it home within the next month or so is on the cards.

I plan on copying the corner bracing and modifying those. Well I want to replace all the melamine parts eventually but yeah. The idea would be to modify those in a way I could easily attach side and top panels. Likely something like 1/4" plexi glass. I don't like how the socket caps stick out, so I would use countersunk screws to make the screw head flush with the printed brace. Then either on the back side hollow out a section for a neodymium magnet for each corner and do the same for the plexiglass, or maybe thumbscrews? Or possibly just make it so it's like the side of a PC case where it slides in and out The top would likely be semi permanent and attached with screws but the sides would be like just slide the panel up and take it off that way. The front maybe the same way or use hinges or whatever. I don't think I will print any ABS I hear enclosures could help with that. My main reason for doing it is dust. Dust I hear can mess up prints so keeping it enclosed may help with the quality.

For me an MDF enclosure would be really easy to do, I may do that as a frame then attach plexi to the outside and just have a box that goes over it? but that to me seems like cheating and or wasted space... also no challenge. I like challenging myself so unless I absolutely need it and I can't figure out the other bit then maybe? But what I have in mind should be relatively easy to do.

About the router stand... Looks good, but I must admit when I read "router", I thought of like an actual router well the woodworking kind.

The CTC-3D clone? or? I haven't looked into those so I am not very familiar. I am mainly interested in kits not fully working right out of the box... and you answered that later in the post... nice.

The fan bit. I plan on tinkering around a lot with that well the shroud bit. I have thought of an experiment to try to test out which ones are better, and I will throw in different speeds, different nozzles as well and document the process. I will take a few that others have designed, and design some of my own to see how they differ in performance. The test will be of multiple prints of a similar object, essentially 2 poles at varying distances, like half an inch up to say 3 to 5 inches or however long to see how far each can bridge the gap with little to no sagging. Then maybe ledges at varying lengths.

As for the V6 clone bit. I already bought one of these J-Head V6 Bowden and an MK8 Bowden feeder. I primarily got those to see if I like the bowden setup over the direct. If I find out I like the direct I will probably get this. If I like the bowden bit I think I could still get that one and just change out the heat sink and use the other bits. Either or fun times ahead.

>Or even the new e3d aero if you don't want v6 style eating into your build height.

If I need more build height, I can just get some longer rods, and some longer 2020's and extend it out. My main thing is I wanted 12"^2, since this is like 15.75" unless it takes 3.75" more of build height away I don't think I will fret too much.

>Definitely use the stock for a few months

A few months is an eternity for me. Maybe it will take that long to get built and dialed in? Who knows... Either or... the plan is to get the printer from kit form built and working and at least functional with prints. The only "change" will likely be with a 12x12 glass or mirror bed. Once it's up and running and I have a base to work from that I know works. Then I will change it over to bowden with the ones I linked and try that out for a while. Then decide whether I want to get the e3d one or not. The only reason I'd get the e3d one is the socks which I could buy seperate and the hotend tube. If I could find that bit seperate I probably wouldn't buy the complete kit. I know I can buy the "clone" version but the teflon tube is used as a liner and I'd like it to potentially be able to get up to around 300c without worrying about that liner melting. I also plan on getting some stainless nozzles and maybe... just maybe one of the tungsten ones. Not necessarily to use with this printer but likely the one that I design and build after this one. Think multiple independent extruders(not sharing the same block), and large... er build volume. I won't get too much into that idea right now though.

>I'd say the z axis rods are the one part of this built machine that is a little more difficult to access/disassemble easily

Yeah I'd say that looks fair. But that's also one of the selling points for me. That design looks rock solid. Even with the shitty melamine. I think once you get the binding figured out on the Z and have an idea how to do it regularly it will become less and less of a pain. As for the threaded and smooth rods, and only the threaded need to be somewhat loose? I heard it was pretty much all of them until it was aligned properly. Try loosening all of them up a little bit. Running it to the top and bottom then go to the top, tighten things down then down to the bottom then tighten. That should resolve any binding. From my understanding at least. It doesn't seem like you have tried that approach yet.

>TBH the melamine parts aren't that terrible.

Well for me I am not hugely against it but yeah. They work just not for my liking. I was initially hoping they would be actual solid melamine. But it looks like it is actually a melamine coating on top of low quality mdf. If it was actual melamine it would be a lot harder and wouldn't crush that easily. Actual melamine is a lot closer to a plastic than what that appears to be. Here in the states at least melamine is commonly put over particle board for counter tops. It's good so long as you don't get water on the edges as it will eventually swell.

As for the bracing... I assume you have home improvement stores there? If so try to find some of these if you don't want to print out new ones. Just figure out the dimensions you want with those flat corner braces and use those. You may need slightly smaller M5's but those are pretty cheap as well. Or if you have a grinder... you could knock a few MM off the ones you have.

>standard board will do the job just fine. The lure of touch/colour screens for 32 bit SBase boards isn't really for me.

I don't think I will go the touch screen route designed for these, If I go that route I will likely add wifi capability, and add a small tablet with browser functionality ;)... The reason for me, for 32 bit is 1/128 stepping, as well as quieter motors, and can be more complex without the program stuttering due to not being able to keep up with the needed calculations. With that I plan on trying to see the maximum print speed I can get and still get decent quality. Just to give you an idea. I plan on bolting it down to a heavy surface due to the inertia of the motors going side to side to keep it rock solid, that may give you an idea on how fast I am planning on cranking this or the next one up to, and yes I know I will likely need better motors and or stronger drivers and crank up the current. Maybe even a stouter belt system? Enclosed chain perhaps? Or longitudinal setup like this? http://www.technicopedia.com/8094/8094-2longitudinal.jpg, well without the extra bits.

As for the USB bit I am going to tinker around with that and SD card, I have a spare laptop I don't really use I can use for that purpose.

This all I need?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_63fyybPVBF44H

Like this? It is $60+ on Amazon. E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal - Direct, 12v - Approximately 120mm PTFE (ASSEMBLY REQUIRED) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SpqQCbDZASXYV

I don't think the temperature is off.
I followed the instructions for selecting the correct thermistor.
My hot-end is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAK9JFO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1#feature-bullets-btf

I have #5 selected in the Marlin firmware for the thermocouple

define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5 / 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup) /

I did this guy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAK9JFO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

which is sold by E3d on Amazon.

Works FANTASTIC. Fit snuggly right into the same carriage. Had to learn some soldering with the wires so I could connect it to my motherboard using the old wires connectors, but now it works great. Also, had to raise the bed with spacers and longer bed screws. It took some work, but it was fun, and rewarding once it got working.

Would this one be goodhot end v6

Two of these guys: http://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Motor-Bipolar-64oz-Printer/dp/B00PNEQI7W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

And the current rating is 2A

Hmm, the pi probably draws 2A along with the Steppers that's 6, and that doesn't include the arduino.

I guess that's probably an issue right there.

Though, I've noticed that this also happens when hooked up to my bench power supply. So maybe there's two issues here? Need caps to regulate and beefier 12v supply?

I don't need PWM, it's just connected to the PWM rail and the pins are set to digital output.

I have caps between the Vmoto and MotorGnd battery, maybe not large enough caps. (The caps only equal 10micro Farads, I was hoping it would be enough maybe an issue)
However it works when the servos are not connected, so I feel like the issue has something to do with the VDD to GND connection

The a4988 says in the diagram of the link I sent it needs a 5v ref with the microcontroller.
https://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Motor-Bipolar-64oz-Printer/dp/B00PNEQI7W (this is the stepper)


https://a.pololu-files.com/picture/0J3360.600.png?d94ef1356fab28463db67ff0619afadf
this is the image that shows it needs a 5v reference to my knowledge
basically I connect the arduino 5v(vdd) to the driver Vdd and the gnd to gnd.

is it normal that the a4988 always has current flowing from the VMOTO to gnd battery? Should I build a transistor switch or am I going to severely inhibit the steppers response time?

this one's amazing. I've been using it as the extruder motor on both my 3D printers. Great torque, always runs cool. I'd recommend it. Only $15!

Ya man... your gonna dig it. And jams with high temperature filament will be a thing of the past.... You should go ahead and run linear advance with PETG once just so you get an effect of how much more torque you will be wielding after doing this. Here is the stepper https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQI7W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Alright, I have a motor shield but I have no idea how to use it. Here is the motor shield I have, and here is the stepper motor I have. Is it possible to use this stepper motor with this shield?

Just like u/tipsygelding said, this is in fact a HICTOP Prusa i3 clone. Here is a link to the Amazon page. It's not available, but from other sites I've looked at, it looks like it's ~$1000, so I'm glad you were able to grab it!

Oh, and welcome to the sub!

I just checked my Slic3r settings, the nozzle diameter is set to 0.5mm.

I have this printer.

The specs say it's actually a 0.4mm nozzle diameter (which I just changed in my Slicer settings).

Thanks for the additional info:

Since you commented the other link was not as good because of the Acrylic frame. What about this one which has an aluminum frame?

In the printing world is aluminum OK in place of steel?

Looking to buy another kit or pre built printer. I have some experience. What do you guys think of this printer: https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Leveling-Accuracy-Self-assembly-Printing/dp/B015IHMOSK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I bought the hictop model which is pretty similar although more expensive. The instructions were poor and one hole was not threaded. Other then that it works well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IHMOSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the recommendation! I will give them a try. Wohoo, even on Amazon prime at a reasonable cost: https://smile.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Printer-Filament-1-75mm/dp/B018MG4SK6

I printed it from my Prusa MK2. Mine is from MG Chemicals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018MG4SK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_hGqQDbE6DSE9G

It is abrasive, so you will need a harden nozzle.

I got it off Amazon, brand is MG Chemicals. It failed because the nozzle clogged, but that was my fault for being impatient when switching filaments. I really like this wood filament, its a nice colour and seems to print with really smooth walls.

Without settings it's hard to say, however you can check out my settings for printing wood fill PLA; this was using MG Chemicals Wood PLA (amazon link, non affiliate).

• Filament Settings
  
• Print Settings
  
  I had great luck with that, printing with a hardened steel 0.4mm nozzle.

Absolutely!


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MG4SK6/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=theaudiowizar-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B018MG4SK6&linkId=e28deb30230bf484fee2f60c396a5aae

I have this here and never had any issues. Works great and gets anything off my PEI so far. https://www.amazon.com/Foreasy-Printer-Removal-Enhanced-Version/dp/B01A81FXMK/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1483558574&sr=1-4&keywords=3d+print+removal

Link to the good bits. It's not done. I'm just not sober enough to handle a heat gun. Used a hair dryer and a "Blade" to see her face.

I had something similar, but it wasn't beefy enough to pry the prints off the buildplate..

https://www.amazon.com/Foreasy-Printer-Removal-Enhanced-Version/dp/B01A81FXMK/

It totally flexed and slipped and cut my finger!

​

Re: plastic scraper that comes with the Photon: Arg- I guess I misunderstood, I thought that was for the buildplate. It's for failed prints in the vat! That makes much more sense.. I tried to use it on my first few prints and it totally failed

Wiki is: http://mpselectmini.com/

Some items I bought from Amazon (don't buy the hot end pieces if you have a V2. They changed the hot end to an all metal one):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T2DNKJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4UXQ42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
V
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQKW230/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACIFPYA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry, some relevant info.
hictop i3
with a sheet of borosilicate glass on the bed.
I'm new to printing. (:
I've lowered the acceleration to 750. which helped with other things but not this problem.
ALSO, X and Y dimensions are not quite right. the Z dimension is perfect. My goal is to print a z-probe part first since this printer did not come with.

I am very interested in a build log! I just purchased this kit :

"[New Arrival] HICTOP Filament Monitor Desktop 3D Printer Kits Reprap Prusa I3 MK8 DIY Self-assembly Printing size 10.6" x 8.3" x 7.7" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ERDWSFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aFrLxb63N8RYF"

I don't know if I should return it and get the auto leveling version. I just received the package today and I am super eager to start the build, but I don't know if I made the right choice for the kit. I emailed tech support to see if they offer any self leveling equipment that I could integrate.

What do you think?

It's the HICTOP Prusa i3

[New Arrival] HICTOP Filament Monitor Desktop 3D Printer Kits Reprap Prusa I3 MK8 DIY Self-assembly Printing size 10.6" x 8.3" x 7.0" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ERDWSFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_WVQQojJZMjL8X

I was looking at this one... which appears to have a larger printer volume with the negative of having to build it yourself...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ERDWSFU/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1463321527&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=i3+3d+printer+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51Usk0-9JVL&ref=plSrch

I'm thinking of getting this one. Is it any good. The specs and reviews looked good to me, but I'm kind of a noob in this sector

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ERDWSFU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am using an Hictop i3 Style 3D Printer Exact Printer for those who are interested

I am printing with Amazon Basics PETG

The problem is that no matter what setting I use my print always fails around this spot.

My temperatures are 235c 245c and 255c with no luck

My print Speeds are 60mm/s, 50mm/s, and 30mm/s

I am using Cura to create the slice.

The print almost feels random. Even with the same settings it might fail sooner or later and it always starts at the bed.

Edit here are some more pictures in better quality plus the other failed benchys https://imgur.com/a/OH7pT6r

Right-o, sorry about that. It's a Prusa I3 Mk8 I believe and I've been using 1.75mm PLA with it. I have the bed set at 60C, the extruder at 220C. I was having some problems with prints not sticking to the base before, but that bed temperature seems to work. The motors were also skipping and "stepping" the prints before, but I tightened up the belts which took care of that. The printer will shudder a bit when filling in skinny bits, but for the outside layer it seems to be perfectly smooth to me. The extruder has two fans attached to it, one with a heat sink above the nozzle where the feed motor is and another blowing air across the nozzle itself. I'll update if I think of any more information.

Oops, I just realized the text for my post didn't work. Basically, when printing one of the 4 faces (along the x axis) ends up rougher than the other 3. I'm not sure what would be causing it because the face directly opposite of it is nice and smooth like the two on the y-axis. I would think if it was a problem with belts, the motor, etc. that I would see the same effect on the opposite side as well. I've tried different speeds with it to mitigate the issue, but I end up with a similar pattern no matter the speed setting. I also saw it with a different filament (although also PLA) that came with the printer originally. Any help or suggestions you can provide would be awesome, thanks!


Printer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERDWSFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Filament:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZBGDR1W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like the HICTOP Prusa i3, just over $300. Prints plastic in 3D shapes. However, as with all 3D printers, it requires a lot of troubleshooting and calibrating.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

works great but I frankly only replaced it once, after I needed to replace it a second time I left it off and have not noticed a difference. Without the insulation it is easier to keep clean and to get the nozzle to seat nicely when switching nozzles.

Thank you. I didn't know this was a thing. 2mm thick heating block cotton

I found these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A256LC8UNAA9S0&psc=1

Did you have to change anything with the print head so it won't break the glass?

There's some on amazon, 10 pack for $8, if you prefer to use Amazon for things.

Something like this?

Then you should look into this mod.
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XY5HBFX&pd_rd_r=b3620fff-eaf7-11e8-8e2e-49ff07944d9e&pd_rd_w=gYR5P&pd_rd_wg=vP9bd&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=WS5EC7YRNH2MZSQP80JQ&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=WS5EC7YRNH2MZSQP80JQ
For safety, cause those boards have a history of fire.

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1535805548&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=mosfet&psc=1

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBU2C64/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX

Might help clarify, I'm talking about adding something similar to these in line from the PSU to the power connector for the heat bed on the main board:

https://smile.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX

EDIT: I realized by watching the TH3D video I edited into the original post, that the above MOSFET is for a 12v PSU, you should research if a 12v MOSFET is needed instead. TH3D mentioned in the video that they do carry them.

On my machine, I have added the following upgrades:

• Inductive sensor for bed leveling
  
• Dual Mosfets
  
• Reinforced Belts
  
• Buildtak clone (optional)
  
• X and Y cable chains (optional)
  
• Y axis belt tensioner (optional)
  
• OctoPi running on a Raspberry Pi 3 B (optional)
  
• Semi-circular fan attachment
  
• Top Mounted Spool Holder (optional, not for heavy spools!)
  
  I hope this helps!
  

I have that one, and its been awesome. And one or two of their regular pla's. No issues with any of them.

This is the PC https://www.amazon.com/PRILINE-Printer-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B074DS3986/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539018836&sr=8-1&keywords=priline+pc

i am using Priline cf polycarbonate: https://www.amazon.com/PRILINE-Polycarbonate-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B074DS3986/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3Q5Y14OVZ74SL&keywords=priline+carbon+fiber+polycarbonate&qid=1571102172&sprefix=priline+%2Caps%2C166&sr=8-1

No its a type of filament made by Priline, its easier to print that Nylon-X. Link

I have a NYC Super Think Krypotonite bike lock that a made a mount for using this filament that should have died, but its strong.

Absolutely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DS3986/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I love my PEI sheet, at first it was strong enough I had to put my glass in the freezer to remove prints, after a while it dulls a bit, but if you sand it lightly it'll make it grippy again. Also alcohol / acetone wipe down every once in a while helps.

The one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_gSfsDbWX1S36A

I would get some of these to upgrade your print surface. I got them for my printer, and prints stick perfectly Everytime with absolutely no hairspray or tape, just clean it in-between prints.

https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printer-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B074XJLWL6?adgrpid=61477283172&hvadid=274674964725&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9033692&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1527745715342828080&hvtargid=kwd-304685224209&keywords=pei+sheets&qid=1535906270&sr=8-1-spons&tag=hydsma-20&ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6

I replaced the old Buildtak bed on my 200x200 RAMPS i3 clone with a GizmoDorks PEI sheet and have been very happy with the results.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074XJLWL6

At the time of this posting, there's a 10% off coupon (activated by clicking). Different sizes are also available.

this one - not affiliate link

Silk Copper PLA 3D Printer Filament 1.75 mm 1KG 2.2LBS Spool 3D Printing Material CC3D Shine Silky Shiny Metallic Metal Red Purple Copper PLA Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XCwBDbXV4S60K

Silk Copper 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D PLA Printing Material Silky Shine Shiny Metal CC3D Metallic PLA Like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e1mVCb9X70V7M

100% correct. This stuff is pretty amazing. I've tried a couple of spools of silk blue from a couple of different vendors and they make very good prints as well.

Polyalchemy and Prusament both have some colors I can't get from other vendors. Getting gorgeous prints from the Polyalchemy Bubblegum (pink) and their deep purple.

1. Motor stopper dampeners. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These will greatly reduce sound on your machine.
   
2. X and Y motor supports Y = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845950 X = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2793110 with dampeners. This'll help alleviate belt tension on the motor/belts and quiet the pritner even more. You'll need some M3x40mm screws for this.
   
3. Flash the firmware with Marlin and enable the heat runaway options. This will stop the printer from burning down your house if a critical error occurs. https://www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/installing-marlin-1-1-9-on-your-cr-10s-with-mesh-bed-leveling-thermal-protection-better-menu-layout-and-finally-power-resume
   
4. Add a Mirror tile to your bed. Most CR10s beds bow in the middle. Mirrors are totally flat, so just make a mirror your new print bed/print bed base.
   
5. Print the Petsfang upgrade https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 and get a Noctua 40mm fan. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JK9GX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a 50mm blower fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can choose if you want the 10 or 20mm noctua fans. Petsfang page says all the screws you'll need.
   
6. Print some support stuff and get some rods to make supports. This'll reduce your print height by 20mm, but it'll greatly stabilize your printer when you do large prints, alleivating weird artifacting when the print gets higher up. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805226
   
7. Get a better Boaing tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I'm not sure if this is the best out there.)
   
8. A steel wear resistant nozzle if you wanna print things other than PLA/TEPG.
   
9. A PEI plate to make it much easier to get prints off. Preferably a flexible one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDQF7KQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
10. A spool mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2440814 which will lets you use bigger spools all while greatly reducing the amount of strain on the extruder and the noise that the filliment makes when it turns.
    
11. Control box cooling fan and base. I've yet to install this one myself as I'm not sure how to wire up the fans, but this'll greatly reduce fan noise and keep the control box super cool. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729888 It'll also remove the problem where if the print goes over 300mm in height where the filiment can sometimes snap due to strain.
    
12. A BLTouch to make bed leveling automatic more or less. I've yet to install this myself. https://www.amazon.com/ANTCLABS-BLTouch-Leveling-Premium-Extension/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bltouch&qid=1562832293&s=industrial&sr=1-3
    
    ​
    
    Anyone got any others?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9GktDb0HBQ44Y

I don't have experience with that printer personally. However, from what I've read it seems like a decent machine. For about $100 less you can get an Ender 3, which is a good printer for the price and has a large community behind it. You could invest the difference purchasing upgrades (BLTouch sensor, magnetic build surface, etc...) and it would outweigh the i3 Mega significantly. If you spend a little more, you can get the CR-10 and increase your build volume.

I haven't owned an Anycubic before, so I have a bias towards Crealty's products. Alternatively, Powerspec is another brand that has similar printers. If you live near a Microcenter, it's likely that they'll have that brand on display. The one near me renovated an entire section of the store to dedicate it to 3D Printing.

Oh man, I've been nervously holding off on buying the skr mini e3 + BLT for a couple months now. Going to go order them now :D

(side note: ANTCLABS is the genuine BLT, right? Was 1m extension long enough for you?)

Thanks for the advice. I was considering this one earlier, but wasn't sure how it would do with that too left screw. I'll give this one a try.

> apparently depending on where you get it can affect which mounts can hold it properly

I didn't realize that. I figured they were all the same with different resellers. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9iKSDbGB674CP]. The comments say it's v3, but the back of the BLtouch says v2 smart

I bought a BLTouch a few weeks ago a love the dam little thing. I got this one on Amazon that came with extension cables from 1-2 meters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The connection for the cable ends are "Dupont" like others have said before. You can but them for cheap on Amazon, if you don't like those type strip the wire and I say use Pitch JST-SM connectors.

I was going to get the ezabl kit but after watching a lot of videos are reading things people said BLTocuh is best for glass best because the ezabl can get bad reader from glass.


Edit: Oh and while installing the BLTouch a lot of guides say strip pin 29 wire from the LCD cable so the BLTouch can use it, but you dont want to do that buy this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CR-10-Ender-3-Pin-27-Board-for-BLTouch-or-filament-sensor-BL-Touch-Creality/302960671554?hash=item4689dcfb42:g:GOIAAOSw~JFcM50B:rk:1:pf:0

That kit includes the genuine BLTouch, which is good. I got mine for $38 on Amazon, printed my own mouting bracket, and spliced into a wire to wire it in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If budget is a concern, and you're up for a little more DIY, you could go that route. Or buy just a cheap Pin 27 board, and print the mount for the probe.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-Ender3-CR-10-Pin-27-Board-for-BLTouch-or-Filament-Sensor-BLTouch-2PCSA/254398567391?hash=item3b3b5613df:g:kHsAAOSwzeddsRVe

I started with a Trianglelab 3D Touch. It was OK for a few days, then began failing, so I changed to the genuine version, which has worked better for me.

This is the BLTouch I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just wanted to make a comment here that it was the thermistor. I bought this part and replaced it and it's working great again. Hope this helps anyone in the future with the same problem.

Man, thank you for helping me so so very much. I will begin by trying to help you answer anything you ask as best I can. From what I recall considering this thing is now over two weeks old and I've done like of stuff to it yet still having no luck (yet moving forward) I can say that the person I bought it from had apparently thought it was a thermistor issue as the old one was still on but in bad shape. So I tested it with the wires still attached and I thought it read pretty good like close to the 100k ohms I'm looking for on my other printers thermistor.

The one I put in it is one of the 100k ohm-er's I was speaking of and as far as I can tell it very likely is the cause of this 700° BS that is going on now...

Everything should be hooked up right as I went and double checked that as soon as I encountered.this issue after replacing the thermistor.
Here is the screw in thermistor I haven't tried yet:

[Gulfcoast Robotics] Thermistor Upgrade for Maker Select Plus and Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus 3D Printers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3ZYBTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SHqyCbFDJB3A5

This is an Amazon link to the thermistors and heaters for the hotend that I've put into it since getting it:

Sunhokey 12V 40W Cartridge Heater and NTC Thermistor 100K 3950 for 3D Printer(Pack of 12pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXSFSKP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_kiwvfNkNbZTWP

And it looks like the E3D V6 hotend that I think comes stock on the makerfarm Pegasus 10 models.

And this all being said and what you have already mentioned it is highly likely that I need new thermistors? I did go to the site that sells these and the heater I put on it at least claims all the same specs. 12v 40 watt heater... So I felt better after reading that considering I had already put it on this machine...

You are a terrific person for reaching out to me about this I've had a few folks reach out and I'm still dealing with these issues some of them the same ones. I don't expect there to be a ton of folks out there that are expert enough to just take on this sort of thing site unseen so I will do my best to accommodate you in any way that may help me gonna go post links to some pics of I can....

Got mine coming from Amazon [Gulfcoast Robotics] Thermistor Upgrade for Maker Select Plus and Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus 3D Printers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3ZYBTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UEj-AbEW6YMN5

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Had almost the same problem on my Monoprice clone - would stop feeding, changed brands, etc. until finally the filament had fused to the PTFE tube in the hot end. Required a complete tear down to find it. I figured as long as I'm in there, upgrade the extruder plate

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WVB6CYD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the thermistor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3ZYBTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Follow the instructions - do not skip the "tight, then back off 1/4 turn. Heat up to 250 and then tighten the nozzle" steps.

Strip off the Kapton tape (if it hasn't already torn off) and use these instead

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B9KW1L1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I overpaid and got this , but temperature regulation is a big deal, you don’t want melted Teflon or a fire.

Improvements/add-ons

• Filament Roller Guide. You will thank yourself later to further prevent the filament from grooving an indentation where it feeds into your extruder. It utilizes bearings but its a fantastic design. I had mine for ~2 months when I started noticing the groove already being made.

• XT60 Connector clips - if you want a little "cable management"

• LCD Cable Clips - Also if you want a little "cable management". There is also an LCD Cover for the PCB to keep dust and whatnot out.

• Any fan covers you find that suit your style as you dont want filament going into the box in the bottom left (not entirely too sure what it holds).

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Physical Upgrades

• Upgrade the bed springs as my originals started to sag a little. Not exactly sure on what the technical name for those springs are but those are the ones I purchased and I have been happy with them.

• Borosilicate glass bed. I use to use the stock mat, tape method, and hairspray method. All of those worked for a little bit but were a complete pain and mess to deal with from time to time. All I do now is use some isopropyl alcohol and clean my glass bed every once in a while but past that I require NO adhesion for my bed outside of tiny pieces that require a brim, skirt or whatever support needed to keep it adhered. As long as your print bed is leveled as best as possible (have a nice filament "squish") you will have no issues.

• Some other things you could look into if you plan to print with other kinds of filament outside of PLA would be: Micro Swiss steel nozzle, Capricorn tubing and an upgraded extruder like the e3d. Keep it simple for right now though while you learn your rigs because I strongly feel no ender 3 works the same and my preference for which program (MatterHacker, Slic3r or Cura) depends on how I feel how the model appears and how its coming out. Also, grab yourself a handful of replacement nozzles if you continue to use the brass ones. They CAN wear out if you use the printer like crazy, so its always good to have spares (also can get a variety of sizes too - standard being the 0.1mm I believe?). I snagged a pack of 10 for $5-8.

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>
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Last but not least, run a few bed level test prints as well. The best one that I have found which helps me dial in my printing was CHEPs bed level STL file. Video & G-Code file. I use it religiously if I ever find that my bed is out of wack.



There are a handful of other mods/add-ons you can find on Thingiverse and another website (one which we arent allowed to link to unfortunately).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3gR-Bb0NTY89V

It's a glass bed, this one specifically:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zriNDbXHEVSEN

Yeah, I got a bunch of tips. Did you join the HackerHappyHour discord? If you did, there's a 3d-printing channel in the Maker section, and I can respond faster there. (I only check reddit every few days usually) Here's the join link if you need it again: https://discord.gg/WNDrtWM

I have used 2 build plate surfaces so far. The build-tak that came with the kit, and a borosilicate glass plate I got from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFTKCV9

I use Slic3r (and I'm now an official contributor to it!), and I have been posting my Slic3r profiles in this gist when i get then nailed down: https://gist.github.com/LongLiveCHIEF/6363bba1e4799bff9122c03f5e8096e3#file-slic3r_ender3_config_bundle-ini

The Ender3 ini bundle that is there now is for the buildtak plate, and I'm almost done with my glass settings.

I also upgraded the bed springs, bought a BLTouch auto-bed-level, and some automotive feeler guages so I can exactly level and dial in my bed shape to slic3r

The reason I did all that, is the biggest factor for sticking is going to be temperate. If you take bed shape/leveling/distance out of the equation, it's easier to focus on temperature without worrying about other factors messing up your layers.

All in all though, I haven't had a lot of problems getting things to stick. You can see my temp settings in the gist I posted, but I've been finding lately that for Hatchbox, the best temperature seems to be 187 - 192 for the hot end, and about 57 - 63 for the bed. Technically you don't need to heat the bed for PLA, but I haven't tried a cold bed yet so couldn't tell you if that works well or not.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFTKCV9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this is the one I bought. It made a huge difference.

This is what I got after a few test prints I'm trying the skull again. It looks way better.

Check this out at Amazon.com
SIQUK 3 Pcs Teflon Tube PTFE Blue Tubing (1.5M) with 3 Pcs PC4-M6 Fittings and 3 Pcs PC4-M10 Fitting Connector for 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_zrPrDb2ZQ4C9H

https://www.amazon.com/SIQUK-Fittings-Straight-Pneumatic-Connector/dp/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=ender+3+couokers&qid=1566384028&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell

Basically these. The ones that came with my printer couldn’t hold the tubing which made the printer unusable. The yelllow bed springs are similar - the stock ones are flimsy and may require you to cut some plastic on your z end stop to make it work out. To me those are really the only 2 “day one” upgrades just due to them sometimes being necessary for the printer to even function.

Stock Hotend, This Bowden tube and the change I mentioned in my top level comment

Here you go.

SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Extruder Cat found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2823786

Here's the extruder I bought

And here's the bowden tubing and connectors

There's a lot of similar items on Amazon that will work; I just personally went after the popular ones with the highest reviews

Also, if you get the tubing, don't forget to get cutters if you don't have any already

This is where i got them from. Just make sure when you cute them that you are careful not to crush the tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm pretty sure I just got an official creality one, but here is an Amazon link. I'm glad you got it figured out!

It's going to happen to you. Possibly even with a filament guide eventually. The plastic extruder is just terrible. Picking up the all metal extruder is one of the best buys you'll make.

Tomb of 3d printed horrors has a great assembly video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8Qrwh907Q&t=766s

Useful tips also consider getting the aluminum extruder before set-up (its easier to do during the assembly process). https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Extruder-Aluminum/dp/B07J44QW8B

Level your bed! Most of my failed prints have been when my bed becomes unleveled.

I included some helpful youtube channels that helped me problem solve.

Chep - https://www.youtube.com/user/beginnerelectronics

Teaching Tech - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbgBDBrwsikmtoLqtpc59Bw

The genuine one is $14.99 on Amazon. Look for seller Creality3d Online.

Official Creality 3D All Metal MK-8 Extruder Feeder Drive Aluminum 1.75mm for CR-10 Ender 3 CR-10S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J44QW8B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ViaSCbP7EG11R

Thanks for the detailed reply.

​

I need to read more to understand the z switch and z screws you are referring to. I have no idea what those are. I assembled by watching some channel on youtube do it. It was like a tales from the crypt vibe channel.

​

As much as it sucks, I probably need to completely disassemble it and start over. There has to be something done incorrectly for it to be this difficult. I am definitely going to get one of those gauges before I get back into. I returned the springs today and ordered different springs on amazon. When they get here, I might sit down one night and try again.

​

As for the bed, the glass one I got was scratched to hell from those stupid springs. I didn't know I had to raise or lower whatever switch you were talking about. Like I said earlier, I already ordered a SD card reader so that will be a definite mod. As for the octopi, is there a list somewhere on this subreddit of everything you need to purchase before starting? I have a raspberry pi at the house. I originally bought it to build a retropie but I haven't gotten around to it yet. I could use it for the printer if needed. I really like the idea of remote printing, having a webcam to see the print live, and putting a part on there that stops the print if there is a filament issue.

​

I have to go into the city tomorrow so I was thinking of stopping by ikea and getting some Lack Tables for the eventual enclosure but now I don't know if I am even going to keep the Ender 3. I am debating on returning it and moving up a tier. I really want to get started on this but it seems like I am never going to be able to print any of this awesome stuff. So many awesome files on thingiverse and I can't use any of them.....

​

Here are the parts I have purchased so far....

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SD Card Extension

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Glass Bed

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Springs that I bought that would not lower bed enough

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Most Recent Springs I am going to try

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Metal Extruder Upgrade

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Filament Black and Red

I bought this extruder feed from Amazon to replace my plastic one.

I checked a YouTube video real quick and then went for it. It seemed like a pretty straightforward install.

That said, now I look at it, the arm seems canted a bit, almost as if the screw with the bearing on it isn't in all the way? It's in as far as it will go.

I had one short countersunk screw (M2 I think) and a lock washer leftover. Couldn't think of where a lock washer would be useful for this assembly, and the stock one didn't have a lock washer anywhere, but if someone knows where it goes, or anything else to ensure this is on correctly, please let me know.

That said, it seems to be extruding just fine, I've done a couple of test prints and nothing seems amiss.

Hey I also new on this, got my printer a month ago, I was super exited as everyone here when receive their printer, I read a LOT while waiting for the printer, so I heard that the stock bed springs are crappy, so I ordered this ones FYSETC Bed springs, also ordered the Aluminium Extruder feeder, and read about the leveling, the paper sheath method, which I think you should already heard about, I did it at the first time the printer gave me a nearly perfect first print (demo dog) , after a few prints and on my third print I came home just to find a mess on my printer, so I did my research again, find out it was bed adhesion, and find out that the best way was glass bed + PEI sheet was the best option, while waiting to arrive I tried to clean the stock bed sheet with mineral spirits (did have rubbing alcohol) but it worsened the adhesion, so I used one adhesion sticker that comes with the overture filament, and again flawless adhesion, at least for the first 4 prints, then again the frustration, I tried some glue stick and worked but it leaves a mess on your print so I decided to try painters tape directly onto the aluminum bed (which lucky for me it is perfectly flat) this is the best adhesion I have tried, problem is also makes a mess with the down face of the print, Finally mi Gass-PEI arrived, (3 days ago), it has a great adhesion but is not perfect, also you have to raise the Z limit switch to compensate the 5~ mm of Glass-PEI, find out that it isn't perfectly flat it has a good adhesion and leaves a very smooth down face, but at some section it does't sticks well and leaves artifacts on the down face, I'm currently working to fix this.

Sorry for the long post, need to talk about my frustration and let you know you are not alone on this, once you manage to make a good print is very satisfying, I have a PETG filament waiting to be used but I don't think is a great idea to try it until a learn more about 3D printing and the Ender.

Hey! Welcome. I also just bought my ender 3 pro as my first printer.

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Here's a great place to start https://all3dp.com/1/20-must-creality-ender-3-upgrades-mods/

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So far I've done the following upgrades:

1: Metal Extruder. 100% necessary and MUCH easier to do during initial assembly rather than an upgrade. I got mine form Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J44QW8B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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2. 2020 Filament Guide:

You can find this on Thingiverse and is about a hour long print. It actually made a noticeable different in some salmon skin issues I had in my first couple of prints.

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3. Springs:

These just arrived today so I'm not sure how much they will help but one of the main causes of my failed prints so far as been issues with leveling and some of the stock springs I can see are just no good.

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4. TL Smoother:

Another upgrade I havent had a chance to set up yet. That said, my research has come across mixed results. Some people love them and some people Hate them.

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I'm not sure about glass beds and all, the stock plate has been working pretty well for me. I think I'm going to try it alittle more before moving to a glass bed simply cause its a bit easier to maintain but it could be the next thing on my list. I've also been considering an auto-leveler (and ardunio) since it doesn't have that function and having to relevel, watch, pray, reset has already cost me a couple hours of print time.

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I'm not familiar with ESUN PLA+, I've been using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0GMMP6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and am very happy with it so far.

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Best of luck with your printing!!

What are you using to level the bed? Also where are you leveling it to? (above the bed screws are the right spot) I use a piece of receipt paper folded in half to level it.

It may be worth using a bed level gcode to assist with the human error or placement problems)

Also the stock springs may be bad these should help with the frequent bed leveling.

A glass bed may also help with adhesion with these

I got this one. It has good reviews and the price was right.

I think most on Amazon are probably similar.

Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Bed 235x235x3.7mm for Ender 3 DC-01 Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SDOEDbJSNRTST

I struggled with adhesion for the first couple weeks of printing. Then I swapped my stock bed for a glass + PEI combo. Got the flatness of the glass + the adhesion of the PEI. Once the plate cools down a few degrees, the parts come right off. No need for sticky hairspray to get things to stick, and no need to put the bed in the freezer to get things to unstick. Best upgrade I’ve made on my ender 3 (~$30 total). Always wipe down with isopropyl alcohol in between prints for best adhesion.

Tip: I also recommend gently wet sanding the PEI. Helps with adhesion and creates a very nice matte finish on the first layer.

Glass Bed:
Nearly Natural 4855 35in.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

PEI:
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Not OP, but here is the one I got a few weeks ago. Works fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/

There are a couple bundles from different brands on amazon that give you 3-4 half spools for $30-40 and look pretty cool.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7SYS7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UZGwCb5XM9N34

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMRNHVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z0GwCbBCYJXYY

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMRNHVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its this stuff from MIKA3D

The Hatchbox has served me well. I have also used eSun, Ziro marble, and this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07JMRNHVS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

That would be Mika3D Gold silk PLA. It comes in a bundle with silk copper and silk silver. Unfortunately the seller on amazon only sells it in half kilo spools and only as a bundle.

This is the filament I use for the metallic octopus. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMRNHVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi all,

In the UK and wanted to get a resin printer, budget under £500.

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I see in the USA some people are going crazy over this:ELEGOO Mars UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer

Uncle Jesse on youtube seems to love it!

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This deal has now ended and the printer is sold out on Amazon.com

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So the main website is selling it, but obviously, that would be from the USA and I would need to pay tax and shipping to the UK.

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So, seeing as I am in the UK I was looking for something over here I could purchase.

I was looking at the ANYCUBIC Photon S 3D Printer

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Does anyone here know:

1. if this is a good alternative to the ELEGOO?
   
2. if not is there a good alternative?
   
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   Thank you so much for your time

I'm looking for a decent starter printer and found what looks like a good resin one and was wanting to get the communities input.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2ZHMRF?tag=all3dp0c-20&th=1

Amazon. Some have gotten one for $250. I just bought one the other day for $260. They are selling out every time they restock within minutes. But as of this exact moment, they are in stock. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B07K2ZHMRF/P_dp_buy_opt?

So I want to get the Ender 3, and unfortunately I’m locked into using Amazon (gift cards). There’s a litany of different listings for the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro; I’m not sure which listing is best, or if there’s a real difference. The prices are within a reasonable range of each other (230-250 for the regular, 270-300 for the Pro), but I know that QC can vary widely by machine. Does anyone know of/have any suggestions for which listings are the most reliable? I’m leaning towards the regular since the Pro features aren’t something I’m interested in as much.

Various Listings:
Creality Ender 3 3D Printer with Resume Printing Function for Home & School Use 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FFTHMMN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1QfxCb1NEWRV0

Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Printer Fully Open Source https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D218NX3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sRfxCbNXRZ5AW

Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro Upgraded 3D Printer with Removable Magnetic Bed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K3SZBHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XRfxCbH8D4B7B

Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro Upgraded 3D Printer with Removable Magnetic Bed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K3SZBHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XRfxCbH8D4B7B

This is the one sold by Creality themselves (fulfilled by Amazon, makes it easier when dealing with warranty claims unless the local seller is particularly supportive):

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Removable-220x220x250MM/dp/B07K3SZBHJ

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The Ender 5 probably gives you a better chance for miniatures because the bed moves in the Z axis (as in, it's slowly dropping instead of flying back and forth), the only reason I would recommend considering the Ender 3 if you can afford the 5 is because more people have them so there's a larger community.

Good to know. I'm looking over at https://www.3dprintedtabletop.com and they seem to be all in on the Ender 3. as a good mini printer and I'm seeing a lot of people here recommending it as a first printer. So now I'm wondering if this is the right model to get? ( https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Removable-220x220x250MM/dp/B07K3SZBHJ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=ender+3+pro&qid=1555890462&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1 ) Also are there any upgrades that are worth getting? 230 is right in the middle of my price range so I have some extra cash to "plus" it up a bit if possible.

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Thanks for the help. Cheers.

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Edit : Now that I'm looking into it the Ender 5 is only a little bit more and seems to be more reliable than the 3.

My personal recommendation (hictop prusa) is about $270. For $330 you'll have plenty of choices on Amazon. In hindsight I wish my printer had a metal frame but after some tuning it's a good work horse with a large print area. Good for the price just don't expect 1 micron resolution.

EDIT: just found two that I really want. Both with metal frames, one for sure has auto leveling (very very very good to have) and it's $520

HICTOP Auto Leveling Desktop 3D Printer Prusa I3 DIY Kit High Accuracy CNC Self-assembly 10.6" x 7.9" x 7.4" Printing Size【Filament Not included】 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IHMOSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_omnKzbNWBYW4W

HICTOP CR-10 3D Printer Prusa I3 DIY Kit Aluminum Large Print Size 300x300x400mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSF5MGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OmnKzbTRAT56S